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package JobHelper; //Imports import java.util.Scanner; //Class public class JobHelper { //Variables static int Engineer = 0; static int Artist = 0; static int Entertainment = 0; static int Computers = 0; static int Teacher = 0; static int Nothing = 0; static int Medical = 0; static int LawEnforcment = 0; static int Scientist = 0; static int Transportation = 0; static String QuestionOne; //Coinstructor public JobHelper() { this.Engineer = Engineer; this.Artist = Artist; this.Entertainment = Entertainment; this.Computers = Computers; this.Teacher = Teacher; this.Nothing = Nothing; this.Medical = Medical; this.LawEnforcment = LawEnforcment; this.Scientist = Scientist; this.Transportation = Transportation; this.QuestionOne = QuestionOne; } //Getters public int getEngineer() { return Engineer; } public int getArtist() { return Artist; } public int getEntertainment() { return Entertainment; } public int getComputers() { return Computers; } public int getTeacher() { return Teacher; } public int getNothing() { return Nothing; } public int getMedical() { return Medical; } public int getLawEnforcment() { return LawEnforcment; } public int getScientist() { return Scientist; } public int getTransportation() { return Transportation; } public String getQuestionOne() { return QuestionOne; } //Methods public void Engineer() { if (QuestionOne == "yes") { Engineer = 5; } } public void Artist() { } public void Entertainment() { } public void Computers() { } public void Teacher() { } public void Nothing() { } public void Medical() { } public void LawEnforcment() { } public void Scientist() { } public void Transportation() { } public static void main(String[] args) { Scanner ScQ1 = new Scanner(System.in); System.out.println("Do you like music yes/no?"); QuestionOne = ScQ1.nextLine(); if (Engineer >= 1) { System.out.println("It worked!"); } else { System.out.println("Not working"); } } } Everything i try has gotten me a not working, i can not figure out how to take the users input and use it in my if statement in order to set my variable equal to a number. Thanks everyone for your help!
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Hey there, so the story is that I was looking for a super cheap gaming Build for a friend, and I was looking to get a used productivity, business, whatever PC and just put a 1050ti in it, in order to run newer games on med to low on a 60hz monitor. I would like some help to see if the pre-built system I'm looking at would be non-compatible or have serious bottlenecks or something. The system I'm looking at was an hp Xw8600 workstation for 25 dollars and no hard drives drive or OS, which is not really a problem for me. The system has a quad core Xeon processor clocked at 3.16ghz with 4gb of (I think) ddr2 memory that I probably will upgrade. What do you think? I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or constructive criticism Site with the pre-built: https://filmar.com/product/001077-hp-rb454ut-xw8600-workstation-tower-intel-xeon-quad-core-3-16-4gb-0gb-dvdrw-vt/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9uHOBRDtARIsALtCa94NlZcje3uVnUW1FmniLjiEraNnLlbn7mr28g4O7eGraE5D7NFhXZ8aAv_aEALw_wcB
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Bit of an odd one here, my main moniter uses a dvi to dvi cable, with no adapters to speak of. I installed a liquid cooler in my pc, and then my dvi monitor only showed static when booted up. I tried with my second monitor, using a vga cable with a dvi converter on the end, into the same dvi port on my GTX 760, and it worked fine. I tried the dvi monitor in both my dvi ports, and was greeted with the same static. At this point i decided to try and plug it into the dvi port on my server, where it worked completely fine. It seems as though i have ruled out all possible broken parts, but for whatever reason the combination of dvi cable and gtx 760 doesnt work, while vga-dvi adaptor and gtx 760 works, while dvi and eah5640 works as well.
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Hi so as titled. My AudioBox USB cannot seem to recognize both my input (i.e. a condenser microphone that came with it that requires phantom power, and I have enabled phantom power) and output (i.e. a pair of headset I plugged into its back as monitor) at the same time WHILE I am running apps such as OBS and Discord or even Any Games. By output I actually mean I could only hear either my voice OR the system sound, more often the earlier. This is weird because In both OBS and Discord I have set the desktop output audio device as the "speaker (AudioBox USB)" which is my headset because it is plugged into the AudioBox USB itself as monitor, and the Mic/Auxiliary Input Device as the "Line (AudioBox USB)" which is my condenser mic that is plugged into the front of the AudioBox USB as it requires phantom power (48V). I have uploaded some recordings I have made with OBS and everything I've mentioned, and you'll see that in the first video which is immediately after I have disabled and enabled the input settings I mentioned in OBS my mic didn't even register and I couldn't even hear my voice (believe me I was speaking into it, but you could see the bar in the audio section of OBS it didn't even budge). Then in the second video was when I closed the program and re-opened it, this time my mic registers and I could hear myself, but all system sounds had been overridden (muted). The same happens when I'm using Discord while gaming with one small difference: the chat audio (still no system or game audio anywhere though) is now being played through the display monitor's (I mean the actually monitor I stare at for hours) cheap speakers, and I literally hear NOTHING AT ALL from my headset that is still plugged into the AudioBox. This problem has been bugging me since I've started recording for Youtube and the only solution I could come up with was record a game without my voice so that the system sound and thus the game sound could be recorded and then do an after-production voice overlay using Corel Studio Pro X7, which if you couldn't tell by the sound of it yet it is a painful task because there are a lot of alignment issues that I had to fix. I searched online and appearently it has something to do with the AudioBox overriding the system audio so I have to set AudioBox USB as my default audio device in windows AND to allow background sound in OBS. I did those, but the problem is still there... So I am running out of juice here. I cannot do a painful 5-6 hours after-production overlay every time when I could've just recorded my voice along with the game. Any thoughts or solutions would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long post. Here are my system's specs: CPU: i5-7600K @ 3.8GHz GPU: Zotac GTX1070 MB: Asrock Z270M-ITX/AC RAM: 16Gb RAM @ 2400Hz Here is a link to the same AudioBox USB I am using: https://www.presonus.com/products/AudioBox-USB 1. No Mic sound.mp4 2. No System sound.mp4
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i got my first pair of non usb headphones(beyerdynamics DT 770 200 ohm) but my audio input is not working. does anyone why this is and might have a solution for me? my motherboard: MSI z97 gaming 5 thanks in advance:)
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So I've bypassed my previous problem, where after a hardware upgrade, the pc won't post. Now, I've reset the cmos and checked all connections and the boot is successful. Again, I'm having issues, that the keyboard and mouse suddenly stops working while trying to install windows. Following are the upgrades I've done, Asus crosshair vi hero amd Ryzen 1700 corsair vengeance led 16 gb 3200 mhz reddragon keyboard and mouse. other hardware details can be found on my profile. Any suggestions?
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Today my Roccat Tyon arrived in the mail and I was very happy with first appearances... Until I plugged it in. After plugging the mouse in, it installed drivers and workered decently with some stutter. I then proceeded to download the "roccat tyon soaftware thing" that lets you customize your macros and leds. Once trying to apply custom settings, the program kept crashing. I eventually fixed this by making an exceptions for the .exe programs that the mice uses to change its settings. This however didn't fix the input lag during games. Bf1 stutters and the macros ive assign to the mouse have to be press multiple times to work, work, or just don't work at all, randomly. When playing gta v I have very "stuttery" gameplay but if I plug my cheap Lenovo mouse in, it goes away instantly. I've tried disabling v-sync and running programs as admins and nothing seems to work. I know it's not my rig specs. im sure it has to do with the mouses hardware/drives/etc. cpu i7600k gpu gtx 1080 ram 32gb
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Hi all, I think I know what the problem is with my computer. It tries to run games at 1080 while my display is a 1600/900. the problem is I have no idea how to fix it. thanks for the help.
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I just upgraded from Windows 10 from 7 and started to realize there was a significant amount of input lag when playing a game in windowed or windowed borderless. I looked into it and found out DWM forces v-sync on win 10. Is there any way to disable this? On windows 7 there was an easy work around on this. -
Hey! I've been playing good old nfs most wanted online recently and came across an interesting finding. One player claimed that his keyboards' key presses work similar to how analog joysticks on game controllers work. In other words, he claims that he can adjust the exact rate of rpm by pressing harder or lighter on "up" arrow key and car only turns depending on the force he applies onto the left/right keys. I know it makes lot of confusion since I've been using quite a variety of keyboards and went thru most of the high end offerings to date by top accessory makers but never found a single product that has the similar functionality advertised. I'm just curious to know if such products really exist. Please share your thoughts bellow. Thanks. **EDIT** Additionally I've realized that the controllers are a better choice over keyboard for driving/racing titles. Which device do you personally prefer to play such games for casual/semi-pro gamer? Feel free to list some as well. (never tried a controllers on pc. how is the compatibility?)
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Hi, newbie Manjaro Gnome user of 6 days here. I'm trying to get Korean Hangul input to work on my laptop, but I'm having some trouble as I'm struggling with following and uderstanding guides. I thought at first that it would be as simple as adding Korean (non-101/104) into input sources but it turned out to not be that simple. I have however found a guide on how to install and set up Korean Hangul on Arch Linux but as mentioned, I'm too small-brained to understand how to go about it. Can someone assist me on how to get Hangul Korean input working? Guide: https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Localization/Korean I'm running Manjaro Gnome on my laptop, and would like Korean input as I study Korean and being able to type in Korean on my laptop would help in the digital portion of my studies.
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Hello, So I recently purchased a cheap "VR Controller" from Aliexpress in the hopes that I could maybe run it through software to get two of them to emulate a Xbox controller. Though when setting them up today I ended up with something.... Strange.... The device appears as 7 devices! Basically 7 different drivers make up this controller; and whats strange is that each one is designated to a different function. Now this wouldn't be a big problem if I could disable all but the controller part of it and then work with it from that; but windows does not give me any options to disable it's keyboard emulation; and the controller emulation is has doesn't even work! So now I have a controller that has it's thumbstick bound to mouse, Y and A buttons bound to volume up and down, and X and B bound to page up and down. It's trigger is left click. Now my question is; is there any way around this? Is there maybe another driver around somewhere that can unify these functions? Here is some of the data I can pull from it. Hopefully this is enough information. I've been scratching my head at this for a while and tried a few different programs like V-joy. But no success at anything really...
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If you are wondering it is a Scepter 25" E255B-1658A -
Hi everyone! I have a HP Chromebook X2 and a HP Spectre x360 laptop and I would like to know if can use any of the chargers on each device independently of the charging speed. I just don't want to damage them. These are the specifications for both chargers: --- means a solid line above a dashed line Chromebook charger output: 5V --- 3A, 9V --- 3A, 12V --- 3A, 15 --- 3A. Laptop charger output: 5V --- 3A, 9V --- 3A, 10V --- 5A, 12V --- 5A, 15V --- 5A, 20V --- 4.5V Thank you!
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One of the cords on my Altec Lansing speakers is beginning to go, which is causing a static sound. I've had these speakers for probably over 10 years. The quality is amazing. Hence I'd like to fix them instead of replace them. My goal is to buy a new connector, so that I can remove the current connector, strip the wire, and then solder the wires to new connector. I'm just not sure what this connector is called or where to buy one, and Google isn't helping. Below are some images. Any help would be immensely appreciated. P.S. I know my fingers are nice looking, so compliments are unnecessary.
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One of the cords on my Altec Lansing speakers is beginning to go, which is causing a static sound. I've had these speakers for probably over 10 years. The quality is amazing. Hence I'd like to fix them instead of replace them. My goal is to buy a new connector, so that I can remove the current connector, strip the wire, and then solder the wires to new connector. I'm just not sure what this connector is called or where to buy one, and Google isn't helping. Below are some images. Any help would be immensely appreciated. P.S. I know my fingers are nice looking, so compliments are unnecessary.
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Hi, Just been tweaking my Living room setup, an wanting to know whether it would make a difference between which device my inputs are connected too. Currently I have my Hdmi inputs into my TV and using digital optical output to my amp for 5.1 ch surround sound audio. Would it make an difference if I connect all my inputs into the amp? E.g Sound quality. Cheers. -
Hey! So I´m looking to build a new system and i would like to hear some opinions on the parts I have picked. But first this is not a high-end build I have limited funds to put in to this, it´s going to be a family/gaming PC. These are the parts I have choosen so far: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 W Spire MSI B450 Gaming Plus Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 2x8GB 3200MHz Red Corsair Force MP300 120GB M.2 NvMe EVGA BQ Semi-Modulärt 650W 80Plus Bronze MSI GeForce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6GB I have an old case so I´m going to use that, would like some sugestions on a future purches ;) Also I have some old harddrivers and SSDs at home so the M.2 drive is just for the OS. With that out of the way, the questions I have is, can i change some of the parts to get the price down but not the preformence? AMD vs Nvidia? B450 vs B350 or other chipsets? The build is somwhat themed but that is not the most important part for me, it´s nice if I can keepit that way tho. Thanks in advance!!
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so i hear that password managers are actually really good and i should look into one. Im not really sure what ones are considered good, secure, ect. As far as i am aware though anything beats saving them to google or writing them down to be snapped up or lost. What companies provide a good password managing software and can be used cross platform between IOS, WIN and Android? Also how do you access the programme, is it a singular password, fingerprint, what? Just looking for input, Johnny 5 me please! ^ if you get that reference (without google), I appreciate you.
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Hello all, I just finished my new pc and need some feedback. The loop is ridiculously hard to get going, and seeing as this is my first go ever at this I used barrow Chinese fittings/tubing/etc. (which were surprisingly good) and now have invested in a fresh set that ill be using permanently (i know i would mar the finish of the compression collars for example) . My question now is how to improve the loop, may I have some help (via mspaint etc.) on fixes i can make to the existing loop moving forward. Things like flipping radiator orientations, different fill and drain port locations etc would be great! Dont be afraid to suggest new fittings, as I have stuff coming in like exhaust valves and the like. Exciting stuff. If better angles are needed let me know.
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In the newer 1809 updates Microsnap removed the language input menu from the Control Panel, leaving behind a broken language menu in the Settings app which is completely unusable. I have two languages installed, but now it started randomly enabling keyboard inputs that I have not added myself into the list. Worst still, I can't remove them at all because the Settings app is broken and shows I have no language installed.... Any fix?
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Yo! I use forums too much so, hopefully, this will be my last time while on this topic. I updated my Intel/Nvidia build to now be Ryzen/Nvidia and saved about a hundred bucks for pretty much the same performance. I'm just wondering if this build looks solid to pick up ASAP I want to buy like tomorrow pretty much. Tired of waiting, just want some input! Thx! NOTE: I'm buying the WD SSD and the EVGA PSU because they're both on sale. Everything else is changeable, even though I don't want to go through everything again. I don't want to go far above 1600 dollars... I'll be streaming and gaming at 1080p until I can upgrade to 1440p. 144 Hz. Located in the US PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qBrY8Y Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qBrY8Y/by_merchant/ CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7GHz 8-Core Processor ($309.79 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($158.45 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($53.65 @ Walmart) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card ($714.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($85.90 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon) Other: CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Desktop Memory Model CMW16GX4M2C3000C15W ($155.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1568.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-27 21:35 EDT-0400
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Hi, I am trying to use my Predator Z321QU as my main screen for my personnel PC and as a secondary monitor for my work PC. As far as I can tell the monitor should support DDC/DI functionality, but I cannot find it explicitly written anywhere or in the actual monitor settings. I tried using ClickMonitorDDC, but i can't seem to get it to work. Has anyone else had any luck doing this? Thanks,
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hey guys. I bought a PC from a flea market for 10$. The other parts were not that great but the motherboard was great one. but the problem is that mobo' USB and ps/2 are not working. Sometimes power of them works but no data. And i tried to boot windows which used with another pc so i could use it by the Google chrome remote desktop. I wanted to try to reset BIOS but the connection wasn't that great and sometimes it shutted down without a reason. So my question is am I can buy an USB PCI or PCIe card and use the mobo without any problems ? ASRock G41C-GS Pentium Dual Core E6600 on-board graphics
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Hello. The explanation to the problem im having is hard to describe, but ill try. When im in a offline gamemode such as training or practise range the game feels perfectly fine and smooth like it should. However when i enter a online game it starts to feel alot less responsive and accurate with aiming (it might affect the movement input aswell but im not sure). My fps remain the same almost consinstantly while differing between online and offline (200fps) it might drop to max 190fps. My specs are: RTX 2060 6GB I7 8700 16gb ballistic 3200mhz ddr4 cl16 ram (recently bought) Asus prime z390a (recently bougtht) The problem is incredibly odd. Ive checked my entire network equipment and replaced everything with new equipment. Ive run several DDUs without any luck. However it gets even weirder when it differs between games. Between overwatch and valorant it feels incredibly sluggish like i explained above but on example warzone it feels quite decent, not nearly as bad as the other games. And even so the problem has just been different all the time. There used to be a gamemode in Overwatch where you were playing in a 12 person ffa arena, inside that gamemode (which obviously was online) it felt amazing but as soon as i entered a quickplay, comp or even a 3v3 it just felt shitty again. It never feels like a stable input. However if i enter the same gamemode now it sometimes can feel good but sometimes it doesnt. Im going crazy about this... Im incredibly annoyed at this problem hence why im desperate to find a person helping me find the solution. Ive been trying to fix this problem for a year now. (The pc has been like this since the beginning hence why i bought new specs to eliminate solutions). Ive checked taskmanager several times while playing but there isnt any massive problem there. I also close down everything except for discord, the game im playing and a few softwares such as steam and razer synapse.
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