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Showing results for tags 'input'.
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I ran into this issue a little bit yesterday on my computer, but then restarting my computer fixed it. Now a coworker has experienced something similar so I'm interested to know how wide spread this might be. The issue relates to keyboard inputs only registering in certain program/applications and not others. KEYBOARD INPUTS NOT REGISTERING IN WINDOWS, BUT DOES IN OTHER PROGRAMS Windows 10 OS, it looks like the OS is no longer registering keyboard inputs within only Windows, but other programs/software's do. For example if I press the Windows key the task bar will open like normal but typing characters and nothing is registering. But if I select Google Chrome which I have open I am able to type and get characters to show up there just fine. OSK - Key presses My computer is working well now, but when I open OSK I see that only certain key presses on my keyboard are registering on the OSK GUI. I find it odd that regular characters are no longer showing signs of being actively used but others do. For example SHIFT, Windows Key, CTRL, CAPS Lock will register (toggle their color). But all the other characters (letters, numbers, misc) are no longer registering in the OSK GUI. . I suspect Windows released an update or drivers changes relating to input devices and was curious if others saw the same behavior or knew what was going on. Thanks for reading and any feedback you might provide. -
I was looking at input devices and noticed there is a field that reports what keys are available on the device(when applicable). However I have been unable to figure out how to use the hex number given to tell me what keys it has. It says it's stored as a bit map, but I've been unable to find anywhere the map of values. This article is helpful and explains how it works, but it's for another field: https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/74903/explain-ev-in-proc-bus-input-devices-data I tried googling it to no avail, I can't find any documentation on it, and even reading through some of the source code I've been unable to find a way to understand the hex bit map. Granted I don't know C, nor do I have a deep understanding of the intricacies of linux, so it's possible even likely that I've missed something, but I don't know where else to go. Does anyone know how I can find the map of values or how I can decode the value given? Specifically this: B: KEY=20000 200 20 0 0 0 0 500f 2100002 3803078 f900d401 feffffdf ffefffff ffffffff fffffffe Thanks for any pointers or help! -
Hello, my girlfriend recently got her hands on some Sony WH-XB910N headphones and sometimes she issues them on her (2017?) MacBook Air. However things have not been very easy as we’ve encountered an issue we cannot find anywhere else. Whenever she uses the headphones she has to open the settings, go to audio, and then to input to hear sound from the MacBook. What I assume is supposed to happen is she’s supposed to hear her microphone playback through the speakers to test the mic, however instead of that happening, she is actually able to hear the audio output, but it’s much lower quality than it should be. This only happens on hee MacBook, tested on other MacBooks and laptops and this problem doesn’t happen at all. I cannot find a solution to this problem, and my last idea left is to hard reset the MacBook. but she’s not very tech savvy so doing that will take a day or two. Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
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Hello, everyone! The issue is as said in title, to give more information on this, I'll start with the issue itself. The problem: while playing Cyberpunk 2077 and more recently, Warhammer 40,000: Darktide I have very often input freezes that make my input from mouse and keyboard unresponsive for several seconds, then it comes back to normal, I tested with Riva Tuner Statistics Server to see if I have anything overloaded (the CPU, the GPU, etc.) and everything seems fine. What I tried: - updating and clean installing all drivers; - windows updates as well; - optimizing nVidia Control Panel settings; - turning everything to low in the graphics options as well as optimizing each settings option in the said games; - trying other games (I didn't have this issue in other game, one example is Elden Ring which came out this year); - updating to last BIOS version. My Setup (not sure if every piece is worth mentioning, but why not): CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800x RAM: GSkill Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200MHz Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 AORUS MASTER GPU: GeForce RTX 3070 Ti GAMING X TRIO 8GB PSU: be quiet! Straight Power 11 1000W Platinum Storage: 250GB SSD KINGSTON 2TB HDD Seagate BarraCuda, SATA III 600 1TB SSD Samsung 980 Evo 2TB SSD ADATA Falcon (on this one I put the games, maybe I should try other SSD?). Display: x2 LED AOC Gaming C24G1 24 inch Keyboard: ACR 98 Akkogear Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero Headset: HiFiman Sundara Logitech Pro X Audio: Microphone: Rode Procaster Audio interface: Audient ID14 Speakers: Presonus Eris E3.5 Video: Elgato Facecam Elgato Key Light OS: Windows 10 Enterprise I could try playing with other mouse and keyboard, just for the sake of it, and I'll try that very soon, but since the issue doesn't appear in other games so far, I don't think it's this. Besides this, I'm pretty lost, never had this issue and I tried every fix I could find on the internet, nothing helped so far. Thank you for taking your time to read this! -
So. I record a podcast with my 3 of my buddies. At this point it's just random conversations. Got a FocusRite Scarlett 18i8 (4 XLR inputs), 4 dynamic mics with stands and pop filters, XLR cables, and the necessary stuff to hook up the FocusRite to protools on my M1 MacBook Air. I plug my AKG K361 headphones into the 1st of the 2 headphone outputs, and hit record and we just go. But I have this problem where during recording, I can only hear 2 of the mic inputs in my headphones. I don't know if it's just that the headphones only play stuff from channels 1 & 2 or what, but it's been a consistent problem. I can only hear 2 of our 4 mics during live recording in my headphones. It pretty important to me to have all of them, so I can set levels, turn people up, mute them etc. I don't know how to fix this. The issue could be in ProTools, or in the FocusRite settings app, but it's all a little more complicated than I know how to figure. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
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My windows has started taking random keyboard inputs while randomly connecting and disconnecting the keyboard. Sometimes its the windows key which remains pressed. Sometimes it spams a certain alphabet or holds the shift key other times some keys do not press. Also when I select any file in the explorer window it selects multiple files in order from the first. I have tried everything hard and fast. Like re-installing the keyboard drivers, updating the drivers, updating windows, factory resetting windows etc. Trying to scan for hardware changes using command prompt. Also tried using it on different ports and the same problem persists. The keyboard is working fine as the problem persists with the same pattern on different keyboard and both those keyboards work fine on other systems. The keyboard and functions work fine for a few minutes when I reboot the computer but comes up again. -
Hi guys I have a problem with my pc. Sooo i saw a video which a guy download a file to update the bios with a usb stick but he has a bios flash button but i dont have it on my mobo, maybe i cant find it. BTW my an orange led lights on when i start my pc which it written DRAM i everything lights up but gpu's fans are not spinning and i have no picture nothing onn the monitor CPU: AMD r5 3600 RAM: Trident Z 16gb 3200mghz MOBO: ASUS STRIX B450 F gaming GPU: AMD 6700XT thanks in advance
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I was wondering if I should splurge and extra 100 dollars for the 11700kf or if would be sacrificing any performance and how much performance I would sacrificing, on buying the 11600k. here is my PC part list.
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I have a Xbox controller (not the Series' one, the one with bluetooth that came before) and in my pc I do not have bluetooth or WiFi built-in so I've been using cable just fine to play my games. Recently I decided to buy an USB bluetooth adapter to plug on my pc and connect my controller. The controller connected but no input was registered and the Xbox Accessories app did not show the controller. After some tinkering I discovered that my controller inputs are being read as Dinputs and not Xinputs, wich is very limiting since it does not pick up the triggers. The real question is: what determines the input from the controller being Dinput and not Xinput? Is the adapter? The drivers? Is there a software solution? Any insight will be helpful -
Put my Netgear Nighthawk info into my wpa_supplicant then into my microsdcard that goes into my Hotspot. Thanks! -
Hi! So I used to have a problem with my PC where I can not wake it from power saving mode by clicking on the keyboard or mouse. I recently exchanged my pc enclosure and this problem persisted and additionally when I turn on my PC the monitors do not detect an input. When I however shut down the PC by holding the power button for a few seconds and then boot it up again, the monitors detect a source and everything is fine. I would rather not keep doing this method everytime I turn on or wake up my PC. What I have done until now: I uninstalled my graphics driver and tried booting. Problem remains. I checked the power connector on the motherboard as well as checked for other cables not being plugged in all the way. My specs: MB: b450m a pro max CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 GPU: GTX 1080 Any suggestion for what I can try?
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Going from playing on the built in display (60hz 1ms IPS) to an external monitor for the 4th time I have again noticed a decrease in input latency, in both gaming and regular tasks. And this happened on both "gaming" monitors (75/144hz 1ms) and plain old 60hz 5ms ones. The weird part is my laptop's HDMI is not connected directly to the dedicated GPU but instead goes through the iGPU as well (the 1050 is listed as a render only instead of full display device) and so I'm not bypassing anything and there doesn't seem to be any other performance difference. My questions are: Has anyone had this happen to them? What causes input delay on the built in display and can anything be done to fix it?
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When gaming (I've tried multipul games, example is from Control) the mouse and keyboard freeze. So If i'm running in one direction I will keep running (for a few seconds) in that direction even if I take my finger of the keyboard or try and change direction. Frame rate don't appear to dip at all judging from the Nvidia counter on screen and the rest of the game run as expected. I'm running Malware bytes and PIA i've tried play with them on and closed, that doesn't make a difference. Any idea's would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, My specs are: Windows 10 MSI Tomahawk 7C91vA5 lastest none Beta bios (I tried the beta and it made no difference) AMD 5800X 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance RAM (3600MHz XMP profile 1) ASUS TUF 3080 465.89 Sabrent Rocket 1TB PCIE 5 Boot drive EVGA G2 (750W 80+ gold) IMG_0849.mp4 IMG_0847.mp4
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Also why is my ram capped at 1600mhz, I have a rog z390-f mother board with xmp profile 2 enabled. http://speccy.piriform.com/results/nwSZzA5j0sKHUBhJkXYDmC5 and please feel free to point anything else that may be hampering my performance. -
Hi, I am trying to use my Predator Z321QU as my main screen for my personnel PC and as a secondary monitor for my work PC. As far as I can tell the monitor should support DDC/DI functionality, but I cannot find it explicitly written anywhere or in the actual monitor settings. I tried using ClickMonitorDDC, but i can't seem to get it to work. Has anyone else had any luck doing this? Thanks,
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hey guys. I bought a PC from a flea market for 10$. The other parts were not that great but the motherboard was great one. but the problem is that mobo' USB and ps/2 are not working. Sometimes power of them works but no data. And i tried to boot windows which used with another pc so i could use it by the Google chrome remote desktop. I wanted to try to reset BIOS but the connection wasn't that great and sometimes it shutted down without a reason. So my question is am I can buy an USB PCI or PCIe card and use the mobo without any problems ? ASRock G41C-GS Pentium Dual Core E6600 on-board graphics
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Hello. The explanation to the problem im having is hard to describe, but ill try. When im in a offline gamemode such as training or practise range the game feels perfectly fine and smooth like it should. However when i enter a online game it starts to feel alot less responsive and accurate with aiming (it might affect the movement input aswell but im not sure). My fps remain the same almost consinstantly while differing between online and offline (200fps) it might drop to max 190fps. My specs are: RTX 2060 6GB I7 8700 16gb ballistic 3200mhz ddr4 cl16 ram (recently bought) Asus prime z390a (recently bougtht) The problem is incredibly odd. Ive checked my entire network equipment and replaced everything with new equipment. Ive run several DDUs without any luck. However it gets even weirder when it differs between games. Between overwatch and valorant it feels incredibly sluggish like i explained above but on example warzone it feels quite decent, not nearly as bad as the other games. And even so the problem has just been different all the time. There used to be a gamemode in Overwatch where you were playing in a 12 person ffa arena, inside that gamemode (which obviously was online) it felt amazing but as soon as i entered a quickplay, comp or even a 3v3 it just felt shitty again. It never feels like a stable input. However if i enter the same gamemode now it sometimes can feel good but sometimes it doesnt. Im going crazy about this... Im incredibly annoyed at this problem hence why im desperate to find a person helping me find the solution. Ive been trying to fix this problem for a year now. (The pc has been like this since the beginning hence why i bought new specs to eliminate solutions). Ive checked taskmanager several times while playing but there isnt any massive problem there. I also close down everything except for discord, the game im playing and a few softwares such as steam and razer synapse. -
Hello, When I switch on my pc, the monitor doesnt always respond. Sometimes it comes up and sometime it says "no signal". I dunno wether the issue is with the gpu or cable or the monitor itself. How do I debug this issue further? I really need some help with this. Samvid.
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not sure if i picked this on exactly the right topic but it is about networks so yeah i am wondering what is the main diffreance between an 1Gbit and 2.5Gbits i found an really intressting router that also have 2.5Gbit but my motherboard only have up to 1Gbit so is it still worth it since it is still really amazing or should i go for another because of waste of money? what is the main difference and when do you mainly notice? the one i am looking at is the gaming router asus rog GT-AX11000 thoughts?
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Hi! I'm searching for a way to play a sound to my mic. Let's say that when I click a button or a shortcut that I choose, a sound will be played to the people I'm talking to in discord from my mic (as if I were making the sound with my mic). Is there a software or even a hardware solution to that?
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Hello I don't know where to address this issue but I hope this is the right place, whenever I plug in my headset into an audio jack all I could here is a buzzing sound and nothing else, same thing with microphone I plugged it in a jack it doesn't detect sound however when I listen to the mic's audio it's the same buzzing noise from before any tips ? PS (I updated all the drivers and tried the headset and mic on a different PC and they work fine, I also tried a new headset and it has the same problem on my computer )
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Hey! So I have built my new pc and I immediately was forced to return my RAM because heatshield after 4 day wasn t attached to RAM :( NOW I have everything back on and my Audio is not working. When I plug in Mic and headphone jack in front ports, POP UP shows on my screen what is it that i plugged in (Input or Mic; headphones or input) I select Mic and then Headphones. I can hear sound through headphones but they are NOT RECOGNIZED by pc and I am still on speakers. I cannot get my 5.1 Speakers running because when I plug it in orange,black,green port (not line out) i won t hear a Sh*t , when i test it with windows those beeps will sound in every single one of them , but YouTube or Games etc. won´t play. I assume that because Headphones are not being recognized my MIC that is on them is not also recognized so there for it is not working. ANY IDEAS HOW TO GET IT TO WORK? I am desperate heh :/ . At the moment I have only green jack in Line Out , so I have 2 speakers out of 5 running. Motherboard GIGABYTE AORUS B450 Elite - audio controller is enabled in BIOS Tried unninstalling driver in device manager, did not work.
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Hi, guys, I'm new to the forums and hope someone can help me out as I'm getting kinda desperate. I have an old LG 23ea63 monitor and I kept my ps4 hooked up to it via HDMI, and my PC - via the DVI port. The monitor has an "input" button to switch between modes, and it worked fine until I gave the console to my friend to play for a few days. I now have it back and hooked it the way it was, but now the monitor refuses to switch to the HDMI output whenever PC is on giving feed via the DVI port. Thing is, the actual HDMI connection is working fine because when the PC is shut down and it can't locate the DVI source, it switches to HDMI automatically. But whenever the PC is on and I try to switch from the DVI image (which it locates as a priority) to HDMi one, it will just blink and turn back on the DVI. Here's a video of what happens: Tried two different cables, tried, resetting the monitor settings to defaults, PS4's HDCP setting is turned off unplugging everything from the monitor, but the same issue persists. Funny thing is, when I connect my PS3 to the monitor with the same cable, it will switch to it via the "switch" button with the PC turned on, but whenever the HDMI signal is lost (when changing resolutions, for example), it automatically switches to DVI whereas it never used to before. Also, the monitor won't find any signal at all when the DVI cable isn't pluged in, even when the PS4 is switched and hooked up via HDMI, but it always used to be like that from what I remember. -
Input Club's Hako Violet - Lightweight & Consistent
jiyeon posted a blog entry in Sowon's Switches Reviews
When Input Club and Massdrop - oh, sorry, I meant Drop - had a feud on mechanical keyswitches, Input Club settled and made their own 'Hako' flavor of tactile switches. What I have here today is the Hako Violet by Input Club, one of the lightest if not the lightest tactile switch I have ever used in my life, at just a 50g bottom-out from what I researched online about this particular switch. The Hako Violet is the brother of Input's Club Hako line, next to its siblings, the Hako Clear and the Hako True. All three of them are tactile switches and share the same Kailh Box design used in similar switches such as the Kailh Box Jade, Kailh Box Navy, and Kailh Box Heavy Burnt Orange, so they all include a remarkably boxy stem to prevent dust and moisture from entering the housing. My Kailh Box Jade review of which you can read here. As mentioned earlier, the Hako Violet is a tactile switch. Opening up the switch and taking a look at the stem, there is a noticeable dip in the leg of the Box stem. In my opinion, the Hako Violet isn't noticeably more tactile than an MX Brown, but is still soft enough to be satisfying and indicative of actuation. I believe this is due to the inherently lightweight nature of the entire switch as a whole which emphasises the sharpness of the tactile bump. My favorite thing about choosing this tactile switch over a mainstream MX Brown is the consistency of the switch's actuation. The Box stem is great for minimising stem wobble as well as promoting as consistent actuation on the keypress across an entire keyboard, as there is so much more surface area for the stem to slide down, making them extra smooth. Out of curiousity, I lubed the sides of the stem with thin Tribosys 3204 lube and I found that it did not enhance the smoothness of the switch in any way. I believe this may be because the switch is inherently smooth thanks to the design, and also that the Box stem sticks further out which leaks out lube when not pressed down. Input Club have done an excellent job at creating a switch which is smooth and tactile and that is all thanks to the Box-style switch. While I don't think the tactility is any better than a standard MX Brown, nor is it more extreme than a Zealios V2 switch, the switch's strong point lies in the consistency of actuation and smoothness of actuation. -
Hi there, This is my first proper full assembly build, and I'm having trouble getting it to post. My specs are as follows: Motherboard: MSI X470 Gaming Pro CPU: AMD 3900X Cooler: Dark Rock Pro 4 Memory: Gskill Trident Z Neo F4-3600C16D-32GTZN PSU: Corsair AX860i GPU: MSI 2080ti Gaming Trio Storage: Samsung 970 EVO plus In detail. I power my PC on, all the fans and RGB light up. My monitor turns on (it seems to react to the fact that there's a Display Port input) however it gives me a message with "no input" after which the screen goes back to sleep. I did test the monitor seperately, it works. One of the things I think might be in play is that I have a GPU with 2 x 8 pin slot, and 1 x 6 pin slot. However I do not have dedicated PCI-E 6 pin power connector with my PSU so I am using an 8 pin that splits off into a 6 pin and a 2 pin, and simply not using the 2 pin. Don't know if this could affect my GPU. The same is said for my CPU power connector on my motherboard. I have 2, next to each other. One 8 pin and one 4 pin. I'm not sure wether I need the 4 pin but just to be sure I plugged in another 8 pin that splits off in 2, and again not using the remaining 4 pin. I also disassembled my cooler and checked the CPU for any damage, but I could not find any. I tried running different DIMM slots for my memory and using only 1 stick. I tried pusing the CMOS reset button on my motherboard. I tried different power cables for my CPU to see if any are dead. I haven't tried different power cables for my GPU as the RGB lights up and the fans start spinning immediately. That's about as far as I got, would really appreciate some help! Thanks.
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