Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'hub'.
-
Hello all Built an ITX rig for someone. There's 2 fans in front for intake, 1 Intel stock cooler, and 1 rear fan for exhaust. Motherboard only has 2 fan headers (ASRock B85M-ITX). I would love the ability to control the speeds of all 4 of these fans. I tried using a Phanteks fan hub I had laying around, but with it installed, only the case fans will spin. CPU fan won't spin at all. CPU fan works fine when plugged directly into CPU_Fan header. The case is a Rosewill Neutron. Any suggestions on what to do? I have no problem with spending a little money on the right stuff to get all 4 fans working, even if it means buying another CPU cooler.
-
Before i post my question, here is my gpu: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121642&cm_re=asus_hd7770_2gb-_-14-121-642-_-Product As you can tell it has 1 HDMI, 1 Display Port, and 2 DVI ports, 2GB GDDR5, and Eyefinity support. -So im trying to achieve a 4 monitor setup on this single card. Of my 4 monitors, 3 monitors support HDMI, and 1 supports VGA & DVI only. First of, can i have 4 monitors on this specific gpu? i know theres some kind of limitation to non-Eyefinity supported cards (i think 2 monitors) but since this ones Eyefinity supported i should be able to straight up plug in the 4 monitors and have them run right?... of course not to mention i would need active adapters from the card to my monitors (GPU to monitor: 1) HDMI to HDMI (no adapter), 2) Display Port to HDMI, 3) DVI to HDMI, and 4) DVI to DVI (no adapter)). or is a display hub or a usb 2/3 to DVI a better option (if i can only have 3 monitors working)? im looking for the least expensive route. Btw, i wont be gaming on more than ONE monitor at a time, if i have time for games. Primary use is for work. What would the lag be like with a hub or that USB to DVI adapter? Thanks guys!
-
Hello, I currently have a laptop: HP Envy 17 1050eb. This is a great laptop but only 1 bad point: It only has integrated graphics. I lookt a bit around and I found the EXP GDC Laptop External PCI-E Graphics Card. I found somewhere it was compatible with the MSI GTX 750ti, Is this true? Is this module compatible with my laptop? I have a PCI-E slot but, I need to remove my wireless card, this is maybe a stupid question but, does my ethernet cable still works if i plug out the wireless card? For the Graphics Card Hub, the MSI GTX 750ti is a low power consumer, without OC, it uses under 70W. Is it good enough to only use that 12vdc connector? - Gilles (Sorry for bad English I'm from Belgium )
-
how does the fan hub in the NZXT h440 work does it just run the fans full speed or is it connected to the motherboard for controll???
-
So as the title says one of the hubs on the back opf my motherboard won't transfer data, it transfers power but no data. I checked the device manager thinking something may be wrong with them but it says they are all working properly. Then I thought I would check the BIOS because it is an RMA board. but the USB ports were all enabled in the bios as well. IDK what to do and any help would be appreciated Thanks, Jato Main Specs., MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Krait Ram: 32Gb Kingston fury DDR4 at 2400 Mhz. CPU: 5820K @ 3.3 (Stock) GPU: Zotac GTX 970 If you need more specs. just ask. -
I am looking for a good usb hub with 2 usb ports that support 2.1 amps. Preferably on amazon.
-
I'm looking for a decent switch, and as I'm a student, money is pretty tight. I recently got a Steam Link, and the delay while on wireless operation is just abysmal. Besides, I'm planning on getting a Render station/Plex Server combo later down the line, so I do definitely need more ports. The thing is... I barely know anything about networking. I only understand the some of the basics and wireless frequencies. So I honestly have no idea what to look for in a switch. I'm using CAT5 with a 40/40 fiber connection (sometimes 30/30 because ISP). Thanks in advance!
-
Hi all. When my dad got his last computer, the Ethernet didn't work so he bought an TP-Link Gigabit PCI Network Adapter to connect to the internet. Recently, he bought a new PC and the on-board Ethernet worked so I got his Ethernet card to share the connection from my PC. I have set it up to share my internet connection with the card but it lags like hell when I use the connection on my laptop turn off WiFi on it. I have been researching the difference between an Ethernet Hub and an Ethernet Switch as I will be getting another computer that will not have wireless that will need to have constant internet access. On most of the switches I have seen on eBay Australia, they all advertise as having 5 ports for expansion but they don't have an Ethernet In port, just 5 out ports. Here is the one I am thinking of buying. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TP-Link-5-Port-10-100-1000Mb-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-Switch-Hubs-for-PC-Laptop-/271398046344?hash=item3f30958a88:g:iqcAAMXQzH9SEtPh Thanks, Alpha.
-
My last post was never answered, even after bumping twice, so i feel i have to ask this again. I want everything to be plugged directly into the motherboard of my computer, including my USB wireless card, for maximum effect. however, i do not know how well it will go. I am unsure how an external HUB will effect my Mouse, which is in a 3.0 port, or my wireless receiver for my controller, not to mention my other USB devices. I heard 2.0 devices have latency problems and whatnot in 3.0 ports, so i am kind of wondering if this will actually help my mouse and stuff. Regardless of the external Hub i get, i just don't know about USB 2.0 devices in 3.0 ports, or if external hubs have problems with speed. can someone help me out here, im confused -
My current setup of peripherals, accessories and the such, being a wireless adapter usb, a wireless receiver for my xbox controller, my mouse, keyboard and headset all take up nearly every single one of my USB's. even using the plug and play charge kit from Nyko i only have 2 USB's left, and that's all i really need when it comes to my accessories. however, only 2 out of the 8 USB hubs are 3.0, and two of the USB 2.0 hubs are on the front of the case. and i've been hearing talk about USB devices and how to use them effectively and it seems i'm limiting myself with how my setup is currently... Just to clarify, im using a rubber dome keyboard and a 4000 DPI optical gaming mouse in the USB 3.0 slots in my motherboard, my headset, which is a USB, is in a 2.0 hub in the motherboard. Recently i found this little gem: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IORDE5O?colid=2Z38EJPM1CWF2&coliid=I1DA67L84OC1W9&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl Gamdias makes good products i hear, and this being a powered USB hub that saves alot of space, as well a sgives my headset a place to sit and rest, i figured this might be a great option for me. However, i find it's only a 2.0 hub.... SO my question is in the title, but allow me to clarify... Are my devices good as they are, or would the headset and mouse be better suited in a 2.0 hub rather than a 3.0 hub? I hear 2.0 devices have latency problems, random shutoffs and the such from 3.0 connections (my rubber dome had problems with 2.0, shutting off randomly, as soon as i put it in 3.0 it hasn't had problems since, so that's a no brainer)
-
This is actually a fairly neat setup, I'm tempted to give it a go since I have a fair amount of home automation tech already, especially my security system, so it would be a decent exercise to see how well an all in one system like this would actually work. Curious to see how well the router end of things are. The home automation stuff is generally not THAT complicated on the underside, the router tech however. If this is actually a very good router, it would make for a great purchase for those who aren't swapping out routers or other components all the time. http://www.engadget.com/2015/04/01/almond-home-automation-routers/ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R0C2U5E/- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- router
- touchscreen
- (and 4 more)
-
Hey guys, i've been looking a good looking usb hub to connect my mouse and my keyboard to my pc (i have to unplug them quite often) and is not expensive. Has anybody recommendations? Thanks in advance!
-
First time writing a review. Feel free to leave any suggestions for improvement as insulting as possible thanks! Alright so, I'll be reviewing a 7 port USB 3.0 hub by BROWAY. Never heard of it? Thought so. It seems to be a chinese brand that, like many other chinese brands, rip off other designs. In this case, I believe the original design is by Anker. Let's begin! The package: Mine came with an extra outlet splitter. Nice addition I suppose. Opening up inside: Seems pretty premium. Main unit wrapped in a soft plastic type wrapper. The content: To those who have searched up USB hubs before. You may notice this looks rather familiar. And it is! It's almost a perfect replica of the Anker version. Only the logo is changed. Reason I didn't buy the Anker version is that it doesn't exist in Taiwan. I did notice the A/C adpater has some sort of adhesive stuck on it. Cleaned it as best as I could. Ah well, at least it still works. Anyways, onto the unit itself! Not too shabby for a knock off. Which for the equivalent of $41.52 effin dollar, it should be. (1,350nt) The back of it. Onto my next minor issue. The cable quality seems to be sub par. Not sure if this was always the case for all cables but this one seems much worse. You can see dents on the cable. That was caused solely by the twist ties. And indeed the rubber feels incredibly soft. Like I could dent it by simply pressing my nails on it without much force. More issues! Damn thing is a finger print catcher! Don't know if it's cause it's a knock off or the Anker version has this problem too. The plastic catches finger prints incredibly easily. Alright, alright. Enough about the quality. Does the thing perform? The answer is yes! First I tested out it's charging feature. Simply put, when plugged in an outlet while not connected to a computer. It can act like an adapter to charge USB devices. It works so yay. Now onto the actual test! So what do I have connected? -DAC/AMP -HDD read/writer -Card read/writer -Mouse -Keyboard -Phone -Memory stick All of them work without a problem! Ran a crystaldisk info benchmark of the 2.5 HDD as well which you can see on the screen of the Surface Pro 3. Now, does the thing work without A/C power? Nope, not surprised. It never said it would. I won't be using this on go so It's not really an issue for me. If you do want this capability, there's a version of this hub also by Anker (and Broway) with a full aluminum unibody which features this feature. However that variant is heavier and lacks the dedicated charging port. Overall the unit works as intended despite having some, but not major, quality issues (It's not falling apart or blowing up in my face) which I'm going to put the blame on Broway although if the Anker version has this issue then, look out for that! Summary: +Charging by A/C connection only +Supposedly 7th slot charges at speed up to 2 amp. +Powers all 7 connected devices without issue and doesn't bottleneck any speed. +Came with an extra outlet splitter -Fingerprint magnet on the plastic top -Soft rubber cable -A/C plug filled with adhesive 8.5/10 Purchase link (Taiwan only) Anker link Thanks for reading! -
I just got an NZXT H440. Behind the back panel is what it calls a fan hub module. I assume that (since it has a molex connector) all of the fans run at 100%. I like silence... 100% fan speed doesn't sound like silence. I'm not taking a class on electronics until next year so I need help with the SCIENCE. There are 4 fans, 1x 140mm (I think) that draws 12v 0.18a, and 3x 120mm that draw 12v 0.16a. All together draw 0.66a (saved you 3 seconds of math, you're welcome.) My question is, will this http://amzn.to/1z8VWv0MOLEX voltage regulator work to stifle the fans? It's rated for 12v 0.5a. It seems to me (and my dad who has admittedly forgotten everything he learned in introduction to electronics 30 years ago) that it will overheat. If so, could I modify it with a small heat sink to fixthe problem? PS: sorry for all this information, wasn't sure how much of it was relevant.
-
Link : TP-LINK UH700
-
Hi all, I've got a question and I can't really find a "right" solution to it. I have the pc at about 2m from the desk, I need to connect the keyboard and mice but the cable are not so long. Here my question: Should I use an extension cable or a HUB (powered?)? Will I loose some performance or have some problems? Thanks
-
Hello there. Since Prime Day is coming up, I'm considering picking up a new router to replace the rather annoying Sky Hub which we got when we joined Sky Broadband in August last year. It's been a problem child as of recent, with a continually failing connection for hours at a time with restarting it only helping for about 10/15 minutes at a time, the Wi-Fi signal is terrible and inconsistent, and just being inconvenient to diagnose. I haven't decided on which one I intend to get yet, but maybe you could give some insight to that. But that aside, here's the main reason I ask this question. Historically, Sky have been known to force the use of a Sky Hub in order to connect to the internet on a Sky Broadband connection, be it standard broadband or Fibre. I did a rummage around on the internet, but I can't seem to get a straight answer as to whether or not I will be able to use a non-Sky router. So basically, my question is: is there anyone out there on Sky Broadband running their connection on a router that isn't the Sky Hub? And if so, is it any trouble to set up? Thanks in advance. -
i've planned to add another gigabit lancard on my home server. in theory i'm getting 5gbps network from it. but the question is, am i need a smart switch for running the link aggregation/teaming? or i can just use a unmanaged switch... currently i'm running FreeNAS 9.3 (up2date version) thank you.
-
If I have a HDMI Switch/Hub attached to a HDMI Audio Extracter that extracts optical thing. If I set every device (xbox one,xbox 360, PC) to bitstream dolby/dts through HDMI with the optical output from the audio extracter work and send optical dts/dolby to my HTiB
-
Hello guys i want someone to explain to me what's that thing that i plug my BeyerDynamic headphones and AT2035 microphone in the same time i think it's called converter,hub,switcher i don't know i need your help and after the explanation part we start the recommendation operation -
Hello! Currently, I have Chrome open TheVerge.com whenever I start it up. This is great and all but I find myself barely ever looking at the articles. I was wondering if there is a webpage/app that is aesthetically pleasing that I could open up to that would provide me links to websites of my choice (Drive, Google search, Wunderlist, Youtube, Etc). I would prefer the option to add links aswell, so if I want a link to some obscure web page I have the option too. I currently have Awesome New Tabs as my new tab default, while it achieves the function I want, I would like something more aesthitcally pleasing. Anyone know of such a "Hub" so to say?
-
Seems like a good keyboard. Especially for the price when you get actual cherry keys and the usb/audio hub and such. My dad likes his current keyboard (a four year old membrane that came with the tower) because it has some resistance when he presses a key. In reality it feels AWFUL, so I think it might be time to show him what a higher quality keyboard feels like. Since Cherry MX Blacks aren't the most common thing around, I thought I would post it here in case anyone might be interested. http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=114&cp_id=11401&cs_id=1140102&p_id=9180&seq=1&sortby=2&rating=7&format=4- 7 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- mechanical
- keyboard
- (and 8 more)
-
If I plug RAD fans into a fan hub like this... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14673/ele-998/8-Pin_P... What voltage will my fans be running at? Will that be accessible in the bios or will they just run at a fixed voltage without being PWM, having a fan controller, or not being plugged directly onto the MOBO? I ask this because I'm the type that will just run the fans near max rpm and never bother to reduce the speed/voltage. I feel like a fan controller isn't necessary. This is in regards to my new build that will house 2x Swiftech MCR420-XP's in pull with Corsair SP120 high performance edition fans.
-
Here's the squidealio. I've arranged my battlestation in a more permanent position. Getting real serious about cable management. First things first -- I have a bunch of USB devices, that's a lot of cables, can't have that on my desk like octopus. This ain't a sushi place. I get a 7-port powered USB hub, route my keyboard (Corsair K95), mouse (Corsair M95), microphone (poopy Dynex, hopefully a Snowball soon), and amp/DAC (FiiO E10) down under my desk. The hub is plugged into a USB 3 port on the motherboard (the hub is USB 2, so that probably doesn't matter), and the hub's AC power in the power strip. Thangs is cool. Works great for about half an hour. Suddenly the hub power cycles -- all my devices are lifeless. A few seconds pass, hub comes back. My devices are functional again. One thing... audio is potato quality! :angry: All audio gets this stuttery effect, but it's not lag, it's just jittery.. garbled. Sounds like if someone had my audio in a piece of paper and is scrunching up the paper. Best analogy I'm capable of. Audio is the most important thing, I plug it into the mobo until I get a USB extension cord to reroute under the desk. So I've got a hub with KBM + microphone and then my amp in the mobo. No biggie, the amp is hi power so I say "I suppose this makes sense" and deal with it. Later, in a skype call, others are complaining that I'm transmitting a whining sound (not complaining, high pitched tone). I say 'wtf' and test the mic in a mobo USB port. Whining gone. WTF. What's the point of a USB hub if I can only have my mouse and keyboard plugged in! I do some research. Inconclusive. Assume defective hub. Go back to BestBuy, get a Dynex USB hub. I discover the power output is the same 5V 3.5A as the Belkin. Leery, I test all my devices in the Dynex. Everything works fine. Sweet. Set everything up. All my devices -- mouse, keyboard, mic, amp -- plugged into it under the desk. I test the mic. There's the whining sound.. Oh well, at least audio is fine. A little bit later the hub power cycles. Audio goes poopoo. I get upset. I try the hub's AC power in the wall instead of the power strip. Everything's fine... That leads us to now. I don't know if the hub will power cycle while plugged into the wall, I'm certain that it will eventually. Someone help me out. Are USB hubs a joke? Is there something about USB I'm missing? This is annoying me to no end. What's the point of a 7 port powered USB hub if I can only power my mouse and keyboard. I've checked the power requirements of all my devices and there should be no problems at all. Each port on the USB hubs should be receiving 500 mA, the standard amount of power for a USB hub(3.5 A / 7 ports = 0.5 A). I've been told a powered USB 3 hub might help and I've been told I'm overloading the port the hub is plugged into. Neither makes sense to me except maybe USB 3 might have more bandwidth to handle the data of macro keyboard/mouse + audio equipment. I'm at a loss. I call upon the power of the LTT community!
