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Hi, I made a thread about this before but in the wrong section. I've had my Zalman Reserator Max 3 Dual on an i7 4790k for about a year now, and it's been working fine. A few weeks ago, i took it out to clean it, but upon reinstallation i found that my temps had skyrocketed to 90 Celcius in BIOS. The computer boots fine and everything else works. I managed to fix it by giving it 12v and shaking it a bit, but skip forward two weeks and i have the issue again. I've replaced the thermal paste several times, the LED on the pump still lights and it still makes sound. The tubes are too thick to tell if water is moving inside, but the 240mm radiator is pushing out only cold air. Any help would be greatly appricated. Thanks -
Following my first topic on having a very high ping when multiple clients are connected to my modem (here), I am here to ask again for advice in dealing with this same problem. I have a 1.5mbps line and about 5 wireless and 2 wired devices running on a single modem, complete with a CCTV routing the modem for an intranet viewing. What can I do to ensure that my games run at a low ping despite having multiple devices staying connected? I am currently using a DSL-2640B REV T1 modem provided by my ISP. Will changing to a more powerful modem solves the issue? Or is the bottleneck comes from the slow internet speed? FYI, my mom uses her phone to facebook a lot. Hope that some of you can shed some light in this, thanks!
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I've had my GPU for a few weeks now and most of the time I've had a pretty aggressive fan curve going. However, today I decided to let the default settings do their work, and my GPU was idling at 50-57 degrees Celsius. I know that by default the fans don't turn on till the card hits 60 degrees, but even with three intake fans and three fans pushing air out (CPU radiator and 140mm) these temps seem really high. Could my themal paste be bad? Should I send the card back to Newegg and get a replacement before that opportunity ends? I ran some BF1, and with the default fan settings I was hitting a steady 71 degrees. This DID thermal throttle my GPU slightly since my clock normally boosts itself to 1974, while with the default settings it was running at around 1950 something. Just looking for some feedback on this, or if anyone else has similar experiences with the same card. EDIT: just missed my time window to return it to Newegg. I'd have to go through EVGA's warranty service.
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Just a quick question: Why are my Crystal Disk Mark scores so high? I have a Samsung 850 Evo I'm having amazing scores, especially on read performance (not upset with that, just curious): other 850 Evo scores onilne are more like this: I have 3 hypothesis: 1) I did the test wrong 2) Samsung Magician (RAPID mode enabled) is doing something to boost the performance 3) Intel Rapid Storage is doing something to boost the performance I remember setting up some kind of cache thing in the past (either in windows itself or the two previously mentioned programs) but I can't remember what program it was in and I can't find anything about it in the Samsung or Intel programs. Is the cache thing affecting my scores? Is this showing real world performance, or is it just loading in the cache?
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Budget: 2500$ USD Aim: I will be using the PC for gaming and editing/rendering Monitors: I will be getting a BenQ 144Hz 1080p monitor a week after I get the parts for the PC. Then in the future I am planning on getting a 60Hz 1080p monitor so I get a dual monitor setup. Peripherals: I already have everything that I will be using from my current build. Except for the monitor that I will be upgrading one week after I build the PC. Why am I upgrading? I got my computer from my brother when he upgraded his setup with a new PC. The computer was already a few years old, so it sucks at this point. Are the parts that I chose good? I know it is overkill for a 1080p gaming rig, however I will be editing/rendering with that PC as well. I am happy with 1080p gaming at the moment, and might upgrade to 1440p in the future if I feel like it's worth it. Prices are a bit expensive for you folks in NA, but I live in the middle east and that's how we got it here. What do you think of the parts that I am planning on buying? Any recommendations? -
Title explains it mostly. On idle, SpeedFan is showing temps for my non-overclocked AMD FX-8120 at about 52°C to 60°C. Even though I'm using the stock cooler, these temps seem way too high. Also, although my CPU is running hot, my GPU is only at about 33°C. Does anybody have any ideas why my temps are so high?
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I have a EVGA 970 ACX blah blah blah cooler in my case (Ncase M1) and the idle temps are very high. Now, I already know I should have went with a blower style card, but i was wondering if there is a solution, other than add fans to the bottom for exhaust, that I might be able to do sooner rather than later. Max temps hit the 83 degree threshold on nvidia while playing games like overwatch and gw2. The only reason that I wouldnt be able to do the fans solution is that I need to get my hands on 4pin fan splitters.
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So this morning Nvidia's stock prices have reached the highest they have ever been in the history of the company. Currently sitting at $42, the previous high was October 2007, at about $39.5 This massive 4 point increase over the weekend was likely due to the announcement of the GTX1000 series graphics cards and companies realizing the potential profits due to the near constant increase over the past four years. What does this mean for the future of GPUs? Personally I think this is good because with increased profits, nvidia can focus more resources on technologies like drive PX, autopilot, machine vision, neural networks, and other innovative technologies. I don't see this making a big effect on the GPU market, at least not in the near future. Discuss below. PS-I was predicting weeks ago that nvidia was going to reach all-time-high numbers due to the GTX1000 release/announcement I was right I should learn to invest Sources: http://www.thepointreview.com/stock-that-got-upgrade-nvidia-corporation-nasdaqnvda/ https://ca.finance.yahoo.com/echarts?s=NVDA#symbol=NVDA;range=1d https://www.thestreet.com/story/13572350/1/new-lifetime-high-today-nvidia-nvda.html
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Hey guys! I never posted my build to this forum, but I've been busy slowly putting it together for a while now, but I've run into a problem that I wish to solve with a bit of DIY. So, currently I've got SIX Noctua iPPC-3000's connected to my motherboard; however, I have purchased and have received SIX SanAce 120's (Model #: 9GV1212P1J01) from Amazon that come with PWM. Now, these are 36 WATT (3.0 AMP/12 VOLT) parts by SanyoDenki from Japan that provide 224 CFM. Now, you're probably wondering "Why do you need these fans?" and "So, what is the problem here?." Well, I made the move to Phase Change cooling by purchasing the PC-V10 from LDCooling, and I'm bat-shit insane: My build is neither cold enough nor loud enough. I want to replace my Noctua's with these SanyoDenki's; however, I can't just run 36 WATT fans off the motherboard. I need a controller that can provide enough power to SIX of these beasts. Now, I understand that these controllers already exist, but I was wondering if anyone on this forum has had experience with DIY fan controllers? I'm looking for any advice I can get from this forum. I want to use military switches. I have experience with soldering and small electronics. I am willing to program a chip to receive signals from these switches that would then execute specific profiles for the fans. I'm looking to have three profiles: STEALTH-MODE: All fans would be set to run just above their minimum required amperage. SAFE-MODE: All fans would be set to run just above their minimum required amperage, EXCEPT the one fan providing flow for the LDCooling radiator (which would probably be set to run at 3000 RPM. LUDICROUS-MODE: All fans would be set to run at maximum amperage. I have experience with micro-controllers and am willing to work with them on this project if necessary. I am willing to spend whatever is necessary on this project. I've already modded a tempered glass window onto my PC-V10. I have already decided to go all-out with this project. I plan to post about the finished product when it is completed in the future, but I don't know when that will be. This is an example of vaguely of what I am trying to recreate. Except, that I want everything to operate independently of the motherboard and have custom profiles for my fans. I have already purchased a controller similar to this that is rated for my required wattage, but it would pull the full 260 WATTS from my PSU the instant the motherboard was powered. This would then cause the system to power down. I need to create something that would safely ramp these fans up and down independently of my motherboard. You guys got any ideas? Any experience with this stuff? I have access to wood-working-machines, metal-working-machines and 3D-printers. I'm also looking to recreate this OVERHEAD CONTROL PANEL that this reddit user created and posted about on /r/DIY. This would eventually replace this project, but I could use the experience with this smaller project. https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/3hq8ox/i_built_a_fullyfunctional_overhead_control_panel/ http://imgur.com/a/DyQZL
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So i have this gaming pc since 5 months.( i mainly play P3D flight simulator) when i first got it,at idle the temperature was at 38degrees at max load it was about 65-75 (rarely 80) since about 2 months now the temperature has risen up, with 45degrees idle and when i play flightsim the temperature goes up to 75-80 degrees and when i do a stress test,it goes the total peak 100 DEGREES CELCIUS i really dont understand because i havent done ANYTHING to the PC. i have an Anctec khuler1250 H20 liquid cooler i7 4790K and 3 case fans. i leave my pc on at 24 hours sometimes. but i turned it off for 2 days now and still the same. and help,tips,suggestions,ideas on how i can lower things down? thanks all for ur replies
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This is my first thread on LTT forums, you guys helping me out is my last hope. I have a 1 year old rig, custom built by myself and it worked perfectly until 2 weeks ago when I started to notice these weird stutters while gaming. My frametime randomly just goes up (for example: 9ms in CS:GO then spikes to 25ms, stays there like it's locked and spikes go from there to 30ms and down to 25ms, not going to it's normal state of 9ms). The same thing happens in GTA V too, sometimes it works perfectly, sometimes it just starts to stutter and frametime jumps from 17ms to 35ms and stays there. It also comes down to normal values randomly. Everything's happening randomly, no fix helped me to resolve the issue entirely and those fixes were: Reinstalling OS, trying out different GPU drivers, updating chipset drivers, messing with Nvidia 3D settings, checking if any process is causing increased cpu usage and so on. Nothing worked. I'll post PC details and some graphs below so we can try to sort this out. CPU: Intel i5 4460COOLER: Phanteks PH-TC12DX - 120mm - Blue GPU: Gigabyte G1 GAMING GTX 970MBO: MSI Z97 PC MATERAM: 1x Crucial 8GB 1600mhzHDD: Western Digital RED 1TBSSD: Intel 520, 120gbCASE: Zalman Z3+ WhitePSU: Fortron Raider S 550W, 80+ silver CS:GO NORMAL FRAMETIMES - http://imgur.com/EdmYje4 CS:GO SHITTY FRAMETIMES - http://imgur.com/LRtJaRD GTA V NORMAL FRAMETIMES - http://imgur.com/dlhLKom GTA V SHITTY FRAMETIMES - http://imgur.com/TK7EESg
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Hey, I have recently been getting incredibly high ping (like 200-300ms) and it has forced me to stop playing online multiplayer games. Is there a tool or a way to find the cause of this high ping on my network. I know it is a system connected to my network as when I only connect myself to the router I get really low pings Any help would be greatly appreciated Smiffy
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I don't know if something's wrong with my i7 4790k. While idle it sits ~35°c and while playing Smite specifically it goes up to 60°c. I have a full custom water loop, I'm using an EK Supremacy Evo on the cpu. I recently drained and cleaned out the block, I don't know if it's my cpu or I didn't seat it correctly. The temps were the same even before I cleaned out the loop. Are these temps okay?
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Hi all, I was playing around on pccasegear.com and I got this list of parts: http://www.pccasegear.com/sc/Slf8 I was looking for something around the mid-high range, not spending over $2500. Current build on website is $2323 and I was just wondering if: a) All of the components are good quality, compatible, and will not blow up/die on me. Also trying to find a CPU cooler that will fit in the case and be quite effective. I don't plan on overclocking currently, but that may be something I consider in the future (so should allow for that). b) I am not paying a lot for something that I could get the same performance from something else that is cheaper/better quality. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, so please chime in! P.S this is my first time posting on any forum, anywhere, so if there is anything I have left out, please let me know!
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Hello all, first post here. Today I noticed my temperatures with Prime95 were hitting 100°C within seconds, and that doesn't exactly look right. I decided to reapply the thermal paste and reseat the water block. I was done doing all of this pretty much a hour ago, and I decided to try with another stress test, on HeavyLoad this time, which gave these results: http://i.imgur.com/I9YO6IM.png As you can see, that happened in barely three minutes of stressing. My CPU is a 4790k, not overclocked, my cooler is a Cooler Master Seidon 120V, and I'm using Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. Now, this is my first build, done about 6 months ago, and this is my second time ever applying thermal paste. My stress temperatures have never been great, and I only decided to worry about it today. (Although, I always idle at a few degrees above room temp, and my gaming temperatures are good enough, which is why I didn't care until now.) The radiator is rear mounted, as an exhaust, in a pull configuration. I also want to mention another problem: The pump LED is not working. However, I do believe the pump itself is still working. Why? Well, the LED stopped working five months ago, so that means one month after buying the cooler, and as I mentioned, my gaming temperatures are decent. I do admit that when I found out about it, I kinda freaked out. Thanks for the attention. -
i was looking at some radiators and i saw one with 16 FPI- is this high or low?
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Hello, Today I was running GFXBench and during the times that the GPU was at full usage, I noticed a high pitched noise coming from the power supply. Should I go and get a new PSU before this one blows up my whole computer? Specs: Intel Core i5 4460 MSI Nvidia GTX 970 Cosair CX600 Would a EVGA G2 550W be best for its price or is there another one which is cheaper and just as good?
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Amazon: http://geni.us/4Cxo NCIX: http://bit.ly/1bd3ZTx If the number on the sticker is bigger, will the number from your wall be as well? Let's find out!
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For some reason ltt forum tab (active one) uses ~15% cpu constantly. It happened since new forum update. edit: does not happen when I look at this post, just looks like its happening when I look at home page or some subforum
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I've got a custom loop for about half a year and I'm still a bit confused because of the temps. You can see my specs in the signature. Besides that I'm using an Alphacool Nexxxos XP3 light CPU-block, a Nexxxos GPX GPU-block and a Nexxxos XT45 360mm rad. The thing is that I get really high temps (I think). Both my CPU and my GPU settle at around 70°C. And that's while gaming! That can't be normal, right? I'd appreciate any help.
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My case is the Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX, and I have a 200mm fan on intake and a 120mm on exhaust, with the H5 blowing toward the back of the case. My i5 is currently not overclocked. The temps are about 32 to 35 degrees with occaisional spikes up to low 40s at idle, and no more than 60 degrees under load. Ambient temperature is approx. 25-26 degrees. Might be being kinda paranoid, but is this normal for this cooler, CPU and form factor? And side note; how do you edit your damn signature in this new version of the forum? I can't seem to bloody well figure it out -
This guide helps you find "invisible" memory leaks in driver space. It'll help you understand what, why, and how. Memory leaks? Start by watching this video if you haven't. Linus does a pretty good job of explaining it all! Driver memory leaks? What Linus explains well is that programs can claim up space and not give it back. Or they can be closed yet not actually exit its process. These are fairly easy to find and fix through Sysinternals' Process Explorer or even Windows' Task Manager. Driver leaks, however, don't show up in process lists! They can cause gigs of your RAM to just vanish into thin air, and are harder to diagnose. Luckily, I've got your back. Getting PoolMon Poolmon is a tool that you can use in windows to find out various details about (kernel-space) driver memory usage. To get poolmon, install http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/p/?LinkId=526733 The Windows Driver Kit. Beware though that this is a pretty big installation! Using Poolmon Open a CMD and punch in these commands - you may need admin rights: 64-Bit WIndows cd "C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Kits\10\Tools\x64" poolmon /p 32-Bit windows cd "C:\Program Files\Windows Kits\10\Tools\x86" poolmon /p Note that the directory where poolmon resides may be slightly different depending on the version that you have. Just look in the near vicinity of "C:\Program Files\Windows Kits" for Poolmon Finding the culprit In Poolmon, press B. It then sorts from high to low, counting the size in bytes of the memory usage in the pool. For the top entry (there might be multiple big entries), get the tag (For example, my highest entry is NDbf) and write it down. Now locate the actual driver name. Punch these two in another CMD prompt(Replacing NDbf with your tag): cd "C:\windows\system32\drivers" findstr /m /l NDbf *.sys results in "SamsungRapidDiskFltr.sys" for me. This makes sense since Samsung's RAPID mode is enabled and caches stuff into my RAM. Now what You should now know which driver is eating your RAM. Update it, find an alternative or remove it. Maybe lodge a support ticket with the responsible company.- 4 replies
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Hello people. My friends laptop seems to play up a bit. It runs really slow but we do not know why. I have run many anti-virus/malware softwares without any luck. I have also checked the performance of pc but it doesnt even add up to 100%. I have attached the users tab which shows that no users use 100% cpu but pc runs really slow like it was being used in 100%. Not only that ram usage seems to be only 200mb but he has 8gb installed. I dont think 200mb is 37% of 8gb. It looks like there is a hidden user or task thats using alot of resources. Does anyone knows what could this be ?
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Hwmonitor is saying 69 degrees celsius idle yet 30 ish on amd overdrive. What's going on???
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I've been using a H100 to cool my FX-8350 @ stcock in a HAF X for quite a while now and I recently checked the temperatures and they were hovering at around 60 degrees while idle and 75 on full load. Is this normal for such a good cooler? I cleaned out my system a few days ago and I didn't see much of an improvement. I use some Arctic fans on the radiator which doesn't seem to react to the fan control on the H100, is this why the system runs hot? Also the air that comes out of the radiator is not very hot at all compared to what the CPU temps are. The system is about 2-3 years old.
