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Showing results for tags 'heatsink'.
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Buy CPU heatsink on Amazon: http://geni.us/XnEAkIs We set out to build the world's WORST CPU cooler... and boy, we certainly did succeed...
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Today I discovered a clicking noise near my CPU heatsink. It only occurs when it's under stress, however also occurs during a Unigine Valley benchmark which really only hits the GPU. When I start the benchmark there is a clicking noise that goes really quickly and then when I close the program it whines. I think it might be the fan but I can't see it being that as it whines too, and the fan is only 6 months old. I don't really know what it is but I suspect it is coil whine, but again I don't quite know so if any of you could help me that would be great.
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Hello guys. I've been looking through the internet, under stones and trees for a good thermal paste/compound (w.e) for my laptop's copper heatsink, and I just can't seem to find the right one. There are way too many opinions on various forums, so as a last run before running off and ordering something that won't work for me, I decided to ask You guys. Thank you. -
So I'm planning on buying my stuff for my first ever build and its not too expensive, and the components are listed below. But I need to know if my heatsink is really necessary with the CPU I'm building with. If there are better alternatives to this I would like to know. My components: Intel® 7th Generation Core™ i5-7500 Processor Asus PRIME B250M Plus Gaming Motherboard Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2400MHz ASUS PH-GTX1050TI-4G 4GB DDR-5 Graphics Card (I might go for a Gigabyte as this is too expensive in my country) COOLER MASTER HYPER 212X CPU COOLER or Antec A40 Pro CPU Cooling(cheaper) 550 Watt Thermaltake PSU I need to know if the CoolerMaster is really required for my CPU or not. If not, then can I use the Antec A40 Pro instead? I am very new to building and this is my first build and this is the stuff I've chosen, feel free to express your opinions on the components. Thanks beforehand!
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Hello, today i was playing some Rainbow 6 siege on low settings and my pc was handling it fine. Then all of a sudden the pc shutdown out of nowhere. I investigated and everything seemed cool and fine. The PSU is working fine, the graphics card was only under 50% load and so was the cpu. I opted to replace the thermal compound between my h80i v2 and my FX-8320. I felt around the case and found that the heat sink on the north bridge, in-between the Cpu and PCI slots is very hot and too hot to hold a finger there for more than 3 seconds. But in my OHM and Corsair link the mobo is only reading 34-40 Degrees Celsius Max! I know its king of a dead zone for much airflow in my case. Is this normal? And has anyone had this issue? I have 2 intake fans in the front and the H80 as my exhaust. was thinking of moving on to the top of the case to push airflow to the ram dims since the bottom case fan in pretty blocked by unmovable drive cages. Why the hell did my pc do that? And how do i cool this section of the mobo or is this normal? FX-8320 H80i V2 Cooler. Asus 970 Pro gaming Aura 1050 Ti EVGA SSC 450W EVGA B+ 2 600GB Toshiba drives
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If you run a CPU with absolutely no cooling, will it outright die or will it just throttle really low down in terms of clock speed and barely perform? And if it dies, would that mean the component breaks, or would that mean it powers off and refuses to operate until the temperature falls in a safe range once again? I have wondered about this for a long time but not seen much of anything about it. Probably because it is really dumb to actually try this, and there is no reason why anyone would do it even accidentally considering that so many CPUs come with stock coolers, and people who are building their own machines would probably know that cooling is important or otherwise they would be too confused to assemble everything else. But I am still curious about what would happen. I would assume this depends heavily on the brand, model, and age of the CPU, but I am curious if there are any CPUs that would actually survive having no cooling system. Maybe server grade equipment that is meant to withstand a failure in the cooling system?
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Buy heatsinks on Amazon: http://geni.us/cBmnurZ Buy heatsinks on Newegg: http://geni.us/NIEa0d How good is a heatsink that costs only $5?
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I haven't built a new computer in some time and I wanted to see what the trend in warranties was these days. I figured it would be the same for CPUs as it is for cars, etc. For example, if you modify certain portions of your vehicle, your entire warranty may be invalidated. I already knew that if you overclocked beyond the automatic built in turbo boost, XFR, etc. it would invalidate the warranty. Now, I was correct, but I was correct in the completest sense as well...according to AMD's warranty FAQ pages, the warranty is completely invalidated if you buy an AMD CPU with its stock cooler/heatsink and then proceed to use any other fan/heatsink with it. Is this also normal? Does anyone ever expect to use a processor manufacturer's warranty? What do you think? Also, how do they plan on applying those terms to the non-OEM packages that are CPU only?
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does anyone know if this heatsink https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V21E0640&cm_re=dark_rock_pro_3-_-13C-001F-00002-_-Product is compatible with this motherboard? http://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/Z270 SuperCarrier/index.asp like will it cover any pcie slots, or ram, i could not find anything. thanks for the help
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Ryzen 5 1600 arrived with no thermal paste?!
uacole posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I ordered a Ryzen 5 1600 from newegg and it arrived today with no thermal paste on the stock cooler, which I am planing to use. This sets me back a few days on my build because I don't possess any frickin paste. I have done some research on the internet, of all places, and found that it is supposed to come with paste preapplied. Should I be concerned that mine did not have thermal paste? Also side note newegg is overnighting me some paste for free. Newegg ftw. Now I know that I need thermal paste but my fear is that some Joe Shmoe may not know that and is gonna possibly overcook his CPU if he gets one that does not have paste on it. Also Is it worth my time to let amd know that I received a heatsink with no paste? -
Hi guys. I have biiiiiig struggle...cant make decision, Long story short: Im enthusiastic DIY pc builder. I paint,mod and do all kinds of nonsense to my pc. Currently I run 4930k at 4.4ghz at 1.37. EVGA FTW 1070. 4 drives, 6 case fans, and etc. Z79 Deluxe ASUS motherboard. +Corsair CX750m powersupply. Cooling: Currently it is cooled by CM 412 slim air cooler (painted matt black). Before it was cooled by CM nepton240m (restored after my friend broke the tubes, I replaced those with 4mm thick silicon tubes). Got tired of refilling this bastard every month. This all is fit into core 1500 (fractal design case) YES it is mATX. YES I managed to fit ATX board in mATX case. Well I had my stupid reasons (cuz I wanted to take my pc as hand luggage in airplane) plus Im paranoid, both cpu and gpu are forced to stay under 65 degrees. Cuz I CAN thats why ATTENTION!!!!!!! I need overkill, biggest and most badass Air cooler. that will fit in there performance - first acooustics? would be great if it was quiet I also considered custom loop, maybe EK Kit, but I would prefer overkill air cooler. Or if you manage to convince me (being paranoid as possible) that watercooling is safe and I wont mess up my system (I got brain and able to follow instructions carefully in assembling watercooling loop)
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I wanna buy a cpu heatsink and a case fan if possible. My case Raijintek Arcadia only have 1 outtake fan in the back. But my budget is really limited.The raijintek combo cost pretty much the same with 1 cryorig. And someone recently tell me I should get gammaxx 300.So, which one should I buy? Btw, my cpu FX-6300 with Asus M597A EVO R.2 and enterkomputer.com is where I'm gonna buy it if you wanna use it as reference for the price. Ty.
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Hi, i'm planning to rebuild my old Pentium 4 PC. i found an old 478 socket mobo and my old Pentium 4 2.4GHz but i have a problem... i'm planning to not use the stock heatsink because i remeber that it sucks, but i don't know how to remove the black mounting plastic for the old heatsink. How can i do it? thanks
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I have the Hyper 212 evo. The fins have a cutout with leaves a gap between the fan and the fins. I can feel what seems like a lot of air coming out of the gap and away from the fins. I don't have temperature issues but I'd like to optimize that situation. Anyone seen this before/ fixed it?
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Hey Guys, I wanna paint my Cooler Master EVO 212 (best cpu air cooler of all time), but I have a couple or more concerns. Spray painting to me seems to be the best idea. Can someone recommend to me a good product I could use or other related ideas? I'm also wondering if said product would affect its performance much. I dont OC my CPU as much as many would, I'm a casual user who just likes to push my parts a little.
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So, Guys. I'm going to build a PC but I still don't know which case to choose. And i have a question about CPU Coolers. I need a case that will support GTX 1070 FTW EVGA 1) I'm looking for a case under $99.9 For ATX with Side Panel Window and at least 3 fans. 2) Should I Use Corsair H100i V2 (Going To Buy) or Should I Stay with my CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo All Answers Appreciated. THX GUYS
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My friend turned on his pc with no heatsink.. idk why but is it revivable? Its either skylake or kaby lake.
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Hello guys, I'd like to follow up on my old thread I started explaining what and why I'd like to do to my GPU's heatsink, it's sorta long to explain so please just read the old one as I've explained with pictures and in detail what I'm about to do. So basically I found some PS3 copper shims that supposedly increase cooling for the core (I don't know how since I assume it doesn't have the misaligned cooler like I do) and It's about the size I need it to be. I also found a seller on ebay who sells cut to size copper sheets that are 0.8mm in thickness vs the 1.2mm thick PS3 shims and I'd actually like a rectangular 30x20 piece just to cover the 3rd heatpipe so this is why I'm considering the bigger sheet to cut it to size. My thinking is if I take the thinner shim it will be less big of an insulator (even if it's copper I'm still adding another layer between the core and heatpipes) but I'm not 100% certain on that and this is where I need your advice. I'll see what temperature whichever route I go to yields and since they're so cheap I can not even use them if they make things worse. PS: I've taken into considerations changing thermal paste and I will buy NT-H1 fairly soon which should only improve what I will see. I also know the risk of shorting things out and the extra height that the screws might not be able to reach to. Thanks
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Hello everyone, today is a hot day, isn't it? okay, enough joking, I'm freaking right now atm... so to sort things out, here's a picture of what I found in Corsair LINK. as you can see, the temp #2 is quite... melting point... I actually did what a normal human do, freak out and open the case right away to check where the heat is coming from AAAAAAaand it turns out to be the heatsink of the motherboard... which was quite hot to touch "not that HOT which can burn my finger as the temp #2 says" I don't know if I should freak out or cool it down "please kill me for the puns" tell me what you think, and thanks for the help I appreciate it.
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I am working with an old AM2(+?) board with an Athlon 64 3800+, I have changed out the thermal paste on it as when I got my hands on it, the thermal paste that was already on it had hardened (was still paste like but made me uncomfortable) so I put on some MX-4 paste. I installed the heatsink and locked the latch and powered on the board, I then went into BIOS and checked the CPU temp and (after some time) the CPU had reached 61C (at one point was at 91C on a different boot), I (I cant remember why I did but I got results from it) then unlocked the latch and the only thing holding the heatsink down were the two mounting points at either side of the heatsink, when I unlocked the latch the temperature on the CPU immediatly dropped to 45C. I had also noticed that when it was locked, the heatsink didn't get very warm, it began to warm up a little more when I unlocked the latch. I am not sure why this is but it seems safe enough to leave it unlocked. But I would like to have an idea as to what could be causing the CPU to heat up when I lock the latch on the heatsink. Any thoughts? -
i currently have an intel stock cooler on my i5 4690k and im thinking of getting a different cooler my case only supports coolers 155mm and under so ive been browsing the net and ive come down to two options Cryorig H7 Noctua D9L which one should i get, or is there anything better you'd reccomend? thanks in advance
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I've been trying to put on my heat sink on to the cpu for the past hour and it just looks like too much force is needed to clip both on. I can't understand the instruction manual as it says to clip on both at the same time. As you can see one will clip on and the other one won't. If one latches on the other one will come free
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My friend had all the parts delivered for his new Ryzen 5 1600 build today but his inquisitive father touched the HSF and in doing so smudged and removed some of the thermal paste. Would you use it as it is or remove and re apply new paste? Also if replacing itwhat brand and line should he go for? Thanks
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Hey, someone on newegg worned in the review that because Fractal Design S24 (water cooler) uses aluminium radiators in could cause galvanic corrosion (btw i know what it is). So I just want to know whats the view on aluminum coolers and how often are they used. And yes my build will include copper parts (the pc was just ordered today, but can easily cancel it) Thy *later* nvm, as far as i can see almost all coolers have aluminum parts
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Like power supplies, is a heatsink is better if it's heavier? Buy an NH-D15 Amazon: http://geni.us/uSAt Newegg: http://geni.us/5sHwn
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