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I took my mom's phone (it's a galaxy S5) because she was complaining about the short battery life and the heat it generates. So than I remember that my last phone (Galaxy s4) also made the same thing on it's last days, I want to know if processors heat up more when they're older or it's caused by the battery?

So I was trying to overclock my A8-3870k over 3.40 Ghz with over volt. I have a Corsair H60 water cooler and I had my clock at 3.50 Ghz and the voltage was at 1.5 volts. When I doing stability tests I realized that there was some crazy heat spikes. I was averaging 45 C and then around the 20 minute mark it would go to 145 C for a split instant then would slowly go down to 45 C. Then it spiked again a minute latter in which I killed the test. I was using AiDA64 to stress. What do you think is going on with my cooling?

Hey all, I need some advice. I have an h60 with a stock fan attached to my skylake i7 7700k. The cooler does not cut it, even in case temp of 13c (winter with windows open) the cpu was still getting up to 100c and performance was dipping down to 4000 MHz at the min (not happy...). My cinebench average is 933 normal room temp and cold room testing it was 953. I am a workstation user so cpu performance is a must. I want to be able to overclock. Is this normal or is my H60 unit defective? can I get away with the same cooler and upgrading to a push pull config with EKWB EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) White High Static Pressure 120mm Cooling Fan. how much will buying nice thermal paste help? I'm not trying to spend more than $45 dollars fixing this problem... also my stock fan is loud under load (like loud- is that normal too?). thanks!

Hi, I am looking for some help with adjusting my CPU voltage, So, first off, as I understand - more voltage means more OC'ing capability, but also more heat, is this right? If that is true, I would like to reduce my voltage, as I do not really care about OC'ing and more and temp. At the moment, I have my CPU VCore set to 1.23V, both in the BIOS and Gigabyte Easy Tune, but then when I run prime95 it says my CPU is using like 1.4V, what is that about, and how do I fix it? I have not changed any of the other voltages on my CPU, as I do not know what they do. Thanks

Since the start that i got my hands on a used XFX HD7950, i had the problem that the fans won't spin under 80% fanspeed. The bearings are really smooth and both fans are easily moved by a small breeze. Besides that the fans won't spin un 80%, my memory clock is locked at 1250 MHz. I'm unable to change this in the Crimson software. Both these problems make my card run either, very hot (95 degrees celsius) or very loud at 100% fan speed due to thermal throttling. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling all software. I even tried it with the AMD Clean Uninstall Utility. I'm also unable to switch bios settings because there is no bios switch on this card (in case it is bricked). However the soldering points do exist. Also flashing the bios will not change anything either. I've tried it multiple times on multiple ways, nothing seems to make a diference. Does someone know how to solve this problem? This card is still very good at running modern games at very high settings on 1080p60 and it would be a waste of money to buy a new one. Hope someone knows a solution.

Hi everyone I hope you doing great! I have an issue, my laptop is really slow and idk why really, already defragment the hdd, I clean the laptop, change the thermal paste, update windows, eliminate most of the startup programs, clean the hard drive in general, check for disk errors, windows errors and also verify that it doesn't have malware or virus in general and still it's kinda laggy the especifications are:HP Pavilion DV6-6c75la8GB of RAM AMD A8 3520mAMD Radeon HD 6620GHard Drive 500GBAlso the temperature is nice is between 47 to 51 c°Thank you for reading this and if you're going to answer, for wasting your time to help me haha

So i plan on getting a FD Define R5 and it comes with 2 140mm fans so i plan to put those as top exhaust and 2 140 fans (Be Quiet silent wings 2) in the front. Is this a better choice then a rear fan as heat rises or does it not give a line of airflow through the case?

Hi, so recently I was playing a game I saw that my CPU was about 90C-100C on load I wasn't precocious because it was pretty usually at the time I idled at 45C. I thought these were average temps. Then my pc completely shut down and told me it had a temperature error, so I pressed F1 and continued. After that my computer was still running pretty good until I was in my browser which was kinda laggy and on msi Afterburner it said my temps were going up and I was kinda scared. But I left it cause I thought It'd go down. It didn't and 3-4 days later I idle at 90C-100C instead of load. My room is very hot right now so I need some help. EDIT: I have the stock Intel cooler that came with the processor.

So i have my AMD R7 360 and i have noticed that in idle it's running 49 degrees celsius , i have 2 monitors and in idle i mean web browsing and watching videos and i can hear the fan getting louder so what should i do?

This is technically troubleshooting for those that could be confused about their laptops, fyi. TL;DR: ALL ALIENWARE USERS TURN OFF "EXPRESS CHARGE" IN THE BIOS TO PREVENT A MELTDOWN. Included are pictures of the damage. Pictures of the damage: http://prntscr.com/fb5qw4 http://prntscr.com/fb5rc3 http://prntscr.com/fb5s3g I've owned my Alienware 15 R2(These issues are applicable for the 17, and 13 models as well) for around, 6 + months at this point and I've been happy it until last evening. Before I get into what occurred last evening let me give you a timeline. October: I buy the laptop November: I notice that when charging the laptop could burn you April: I notice my access panel sustained some odd rippling damage, assuming I bent it when I took it off at one point to install a 2nd M.2 May: (a week prior to today) I had an odd issue where the laptop would switch between charging and not charging, until I blew in the port(Later I'd find this was pure coincidence that blowing it would fix it)_ May: (last night) My computer experiences a complete and permanent battery failure Okay, so there's what's occurred in the past several months, here is what I discovered last night Upon removing that panel I discover that rippling affect was caused by, what I assume was a miniature fire? There was a black spot on that spot on the panel, cloth wire sheathing was burnt off and brown, the cable label was also toasted brown I talk to Customer Support, fortunately my guy was EXTREMELY helpful and Alienware computers get quick service. We went over what had happened and later confirmed my assumptions My assumption, the express charged enabled via BIOS, while VERY quick to charge the laptop probably caused the "meltdown" due to higher than normal power draw. Also, to clarify, the burned cable was the "DC-in" cable on the motherboard. Now, I assumed the high power draw was causing the heat because a laptop like this shouldn't be able to charge that fast. In 30 minutes or so the laptop would reach almost 75% charge WHILE gaming. Only recently did I shut off Express Charge through the BIOS because I was too stupid to realize that laptops don't normally charge this quickly. Unfortunately it seems Dell didn't properly test this function on the computer and has left people like me to our own devices.

Hi, I have a Z97-K With a Intel Core I7 4790k, I was wondering what would be a good heat sink for those. Links to sites would help.

Ok guys so I built a system and it was working fine.I had no issues but when I ran Aida 64 the temps were crazy.I tried reapplying the thermal paste multiple times but to no avail. The cooler I am using is an AIO from Corsair the H45. It has a 120mm rad with a push configuration. .Oh and the the thermal paste i use is the Arctic Silver 5.The processor is an I7-6700K at stock speeds.So can anyone suggest me on how to fix or improve these temperatures? The ambient time of the room at the times of stress testing was 24C.

My Asus G750 seems to be getting up there in the temperature range... I have no idea why. The vents are clean nothing is running. I shut the computer sit for 8+hrs and as soon as i turned it on, I opened Speccy and watched the temps's just fire up to those numbers right away. The cpu and motherboard have hit the high 90's degrees celsius when i ran Malwarebytes. What should my next options/ steps be to fix this?

The parts marked get very hot. Is this normal. They are hotter than my CPU and GPU.

Two days ago I ran an IBT stress test and got 95-100c on i7 7700k stock with h100i cooling it. Today I ran the same test without changing anything and got 81c steady. I rebooted, ran again, and got back up ~92-95c stock. Redid thermal paste, still ~92-95c. A friend of mine is running the same cpu on air and gets 84c with a 4.8 OC. Thought it could be voltages, so I manually set them to 1.200 in my asus z270-ar bios. Ran tests again, voltages still high at 1.34v. Tested pretty much every LLC level and it didn't change much. What I've done as far as troubleshooting: -redone thermal paste -tried fans in different orientations -attempted to manually set voltages, they still spiked -tried different LLC settings -dusted radiator as best as I could -multiple burn tests and multiple temperature monitoring software

i'm doing a lava/magma themed build using some of the hottest running components ever brought to the market. i'm using the hottest running consumer cpu, the fx 9590. but i'm stuck on what the hottest running video card is. some cards that come to mind are the gtx 480, radeon 6990, and r9 290x. the asus dcu3 fury looks cool and runs hot as well. i am thinking for going for that, but are there any other options? i would like to keep it relatively quiet. so jet fan coolers of the gtx 480 and r9 290x are out. dual or triple fan coolers only. i also have a thing for big cards, so if there are any triple slot beasts out there that run hot, i'm open!

Hey guys i'm new here, and i have a problem , i live in hot state , like 30celcius coming to my apartment. i have an issue, i have overclocked my cpu and got watercooling on it. When it was winter there wasn't problems cpu was at full load 56c but now when it's summer my cpu is at full load 63c and motherboard is 42c should i worry or just play normally, my case is old midtower case, i only have 2 fans st front and 2 watercooling fans at rear. sorry my bad english, im from finland

So, this seems like an easy question, but preliminary Google searches only bring up old forum posts from the early 2000s that are pretty much speculation. Where is the hottest part of a typical hard drive? Is it the top, where the large metal cover/heatspreader is? Or maybe on the bottom, where the circuit board is? Anybody have an idea, and maybe a thermal image to go with it?

There aren't many topics one heat pipe soldering here so I thought I'd share my first experience. Here's a relevant Log from @iamdarkyoshi which I really liked and wanted to reference here also I have a 2010 HP Pavilion dv7 4000 from 2010 i5 M450 with AMD Radeon HD 5000 graphics. Very excellent laptop, has been great since I got it for school and I have used in constantly until I built my first rig in December last year. It was unfortunately getting very slow and really struggling to stay cool. I wanted to continue having a laptop however so I decided to get a copy of windows 8.1 off Kinguin ($25) and change out my boot drive for a SanDisk 120Gb SATA3 SSD ($45 bucks new). Along with a full fan/system clean (It had been about 3yrs since I last de-lint-ed the cooler fins internally). Simple, but I'm sure you understand "well I might as well do that since I'm here" which usually leads to something brilliant or exhausting but interesting either way. So I tore the laptop down, removed the motherboard and the lint stricken fan and air hosed everything. Then I thought back to some things I heard in Linus' videos regarding thermal paste and how manufactures don't usually spring for the best stuff and thought well I'll use up my leftover paste from my new Hyper 212 and possibly improve thermal performance further. When I removed the cooler from the motherboard there was a totally unnecessary amount of very dry putty looking thermal paste on the CPU and GPU (clearly degraded I thought). CPU side: So I went about cleaning that mess up and I noticed how little solder was used to connect the heat pipe to the little copper plate that interfaces with the CPU. That's thin plate to be reaching out across the entire CPU and conducting all that heat to the heat pipe on the edge of the CPU. Top of CPU side: I figured even though solder doesn't conduct as well as copper it's much better than air so I could improve the heat conduction to the pipe by adding a nice large fillet of solder between the heat pipe and the copper plate on both sides. So, grinning at my seemingly clever improvement idea, I went about securing the CPU plate and mounting bracket in the vise out in the garage (it was about 8F outside so I didn't want to spend much time out there working). I then grabbed a torch and spool of solder and began to heat the assembly, continually poking it with the solder to check the temp. The solder began to melt on the copper plate and I happily filled the entire void with solder. That'll do 'er!! As I was admiring this, out of the corner of my eye I thought I noticed the GPU heatpipe sag very very slightly (the heat pipe from the CPU plate goes to the fin assembly which also includes the GPU heat pipe which goes to the GPU plate). After a sudden realization and at the very moment when I finished thinking "..oh no" the fin assembly slid off of the CPU pipe and it, the CPU fan mount plate attached to it, the GPU pipe, plate, and mounting bracket all went their separate ways as they hit the garage floor. Now it had become a full rebuild project and I moved to the kitchen table because I was freezing. Reattaching the GPU plate and bracket to the GPU pipe in the same location was easy because the solder left on the pipe marked where it was and I clamped it in place and did the same as I had with the CPU (except the first time I assembled it flipped 180 and had to take it apart and resolder). Now that the brackets and plates were on I had to get the fins and fan mount plate back together. The only problem was I would need to hold everything in the right place securely so it could all heat up without falling apart. So I put the CPU and GPU brackets back on the motherboard and decided to hold them in the correct position with the fin assembly and then secure them in that position in a fixture where I could heat them up. But when I went to slide the fin assembly on it wouldn't fit! The pipes had expanded slightly from the high temps. I had read about this possibility and about possible exploding heat pipes but I figured they had to solder them in the first place so they must be able to withstand at least solder melt temps. It turned out it was very easy to gently re-flatten them with a pair of flat pliers so I could squeeze the fins on. I then did a dry fit in the chassis to make sure I had it right: To hold everything together securely and make sure the plates would be parallel with the mound brackets, pennies!! I took a block of wood and stacked up some pennies on it where the CPU and GPU would rest and screwed the brackets down on them (this picture was before I did the dry fit with the fins on the motherboard): The full fixture looked like this: I jammed some extra solder in the fins with the heat pipes for better contact: I torched everything at first to get it all warmed up then I only torched the CPU bracket on and off just enough to keep the solder flowing on everything without overheating. I held the fan mount in place with some pliers as I soldered it back to the fins. And vio la! And it fit!! New peas of thermal paste and all: Boots fast!! Runs cool!! Some 8.1 driver trouble with the swithcable graphics possibly causing an HDMI external to run extremely slow but that's another topic. Also unfortunately I didn't run any stress tests before I started but I know it's working great. Better? I don't really know. However, I certainly wouldn't discourage anyone from trying this (with caution of course) and doing some tests before and after. I think soldering heat pipes is fairly easy if you know how to solder and in the future I might play around with them and try making a custom cooler (I can use our machine shop at work). I'll run Aida64 or something soon and post here. TLDR notes my thoughts: -Heat pipe soldering works -Wow they really move lots of heat!! (duh) They heat up very quickly and entirely so expect to secure every piece of an assembly or it will all fall apart when you heat one part. -They expand but can be reshaped and be careful not to heat more than what you need to melt the solder (use ppe) Hope my first topic is interesting to someone excited to join the community!

Guys, is it better to invest in a case that allows more airflow like the whole front of the case filled with fans or invest in a water cooler for the CPU? Which is more efficient in cooling down the overall system, not just the CPU? Never mind the noise since I'll be wearing a headset most of the time anyway.

Hey guys, I came to the linustechtips forums because i've been checking out Linus' channel whenever I research parts. I have this issue where my computer just shuts itself down while gaming, but it is kind of unique and google is giving me nothing. It doesn't just shut off, It pops up and says "Shutting down" and then it shuts itself down properly. I can turn it back on and it immediately fires up. This is almost exclusive to me playing video games. Wow specifically. I sometimes let my PC run while I am not around, or if I pass out without shutting it off. It actually shut down on me while not gaming the other day. Also while playing wow I get these occasional (potentially unrelated) mini freezes when opening a menu/targetting an enemy or in a graphically intense area. I bought this computer used from the internet (yes, I know bad - but that was the budget) Here are the parts: Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5 - MotherBoard AMD Phenom II x4965 Black Edition - Processor Gigabyte R9 280x Windforce GPU 3GB - GPU OCZ Gold DDR3 8GB - RAM corsair TX 750 - PSU Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU cooler NZXT sentry Fan Controller 80GB SSD Intel 320GB SATA WesternDigital I don't mind buying a new part, I just would like it to be the right one.

Hello All, I was wondering if I could get some info on Heat Dissipation for a certain laptop. My old HP ENVY m6-1205dx is running very well, other than the fact that it overheats frequently. That was why I stopped using it a year ago. I just recently saw it sitting in my closet and thought that it may be of use. So, I redownloaded Windows 8 (Original OS) and reinstalled it, (Of course, the computer autoshutdown in between takes, but luckily no errors, but for some reason Windows update doesn't work properly, still fixing) The computer continued on it's path of Auto Shutdowns to preserve the cpu and graphics chip. So I found a simple fix online, lower the cpu power in AMD catalyst. And it worked. But, at a cost. Now, instead of the normal 2.3 GHz I used to run at, I am stuck at 1400 MHz ~ 1800 MHz total in order for the pc to run stable. I wanted to know if there was a better way to fix this laptop, (And YES I DID DUST IT OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR!!!) Please let me know, I would like to try and squeeze as much performance out of this old PC as I can.

running an i7 4790k at stock clocks. got a nepton 280L cause i plan on overclocking but... 5 mins of prime 95 yield these results. case is an obsidian 750D with 3x 140mm intake, and 3x 140mm exhaust (2 on rad) seems its running too hot for my liking. let me know what you guys think. Thx

I've been watching LTT vids for a while and have noticed that they pay very little attention to the heat and noise of graphics cards. A reason for this may be that they don't suffer the effects 44 degrees C days without aircon as they are based in Canada. Living in Australia, the thermal efficiency (and hence fan noise as well) of certain cards can make or break a purchase. For example, I have read that the rx480 runs extremely hot and have completely disregarded that particular model when building my friends' computers. In my opinion, the gtx1060 (yes, non-blower versions, I know) is a much better alternative when you are concerned with gaming and not having to worry about maxing your gpu fans on hot days. Here is a video of Linus recommending cards and completely disregarding thermals: Please let me know if I have been misinformed somehow or that I am worried about a non-issue. I've heard that graphics cards can run at 90 degrees c and still be fine but my experience with older cards does not support this. I have also made a poll to see what you enthusiasts think about heat. P.S. I just know that someone is going to talk about how thermals are affected by the dissipation technique, i.e. blower fans vs axial fans and high quality heatsinks vs low quality heatsinks. OK, but lets just try and keep the conversation on the total thermal performance keeping in mind the cost of the card - no need to explain to me how it works.

sources: http://forums.evga.com/FindPost/2567129 http://www.tomshardware.de/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-gtx-1070-grafikkarten-roundup,testberichte-242137-2.html here you can request the thermal pads: http://www.evga.com/thermalmod/ the problem: the GTX1070 and apparently GTX1080 custom PCB designs from EVGA have their VRM area very hot - under heavy load the VRM can opperate at hi temperatures, the VRAM does not - according to Micron GDDR5X spec sheet, the chips can safely operate between 0°C to +95°C there are couple of people reporting card getting damaged with "burns" in the VRM area, while others report black screen with fans revving up to 100% EVGA investigated and issued a response to the problem: so, EVGA will be issuing, free of charge, two thermal pads to be applied to the VRM area between the baseplate and the heatsink, and between the back on PCB and the backplate --- the problem with EVGA's designs is that they don't have active cooling for neither VRM nor VRAM: everything (except for the GPU) is covered by a (base) plate --- update Nov 02: http://www.evga.com/thermalmod/ EVGA has done some further investigation and decided that all the cards with ACX 3.0 cooler will be issued vBIOS updates to adjust the fan curve apparently EVGA prioritized acoustics over thermals full EVGA statement: cards affected: cards not affected: Founders Edition, Blower type, HYBRID, and HYDRO COPPER ---- update 05 Nov: http://forums.evga.com/gaps-between-vram-chips-and-the-stock-thermal-pads-on-the-midplate-m2570619-p3.aspx#2576924 EVGA will add VRAM thermal pads and thermal paste in the VRM package