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So a bit of context here since this is going to sound like a pretty obvious question without it. NOTE: Computer specs at the bottom. About a year ago I built my first PC and it worked fine and all, but recently I realized that my RAM was running at 2133 MHz rather then the advertised 3200 MHz I had brought it for on amazon; after a bit of research I found that this was due to me not enabling XMP in the BIOS which after doing so allowed me to obtain the original advertised speed of 3200 MHz. Now the reason I'm not sure if I should of even enabled it in the first place / enable it again is since I wasn't sure if it effected my CPU as well, this is since after turning on XMP and just doing some simple tasks like browsing I went to go clear my google chrome cache which I do periodicly, now usually it will just say "less then 320MB" and I'd rarely see it surpass that number, either way it would never go over 400MB, after putting on XMP I noticed that the Cache size then said "less then 630MB" which confused me since I'd never seen it be able to store that much cache before, however it did raise some concerns with me since I didn't think that turning on XMP would effect my CPU in anyway. So anyways being as paranoid as I can be at times, I decided to disable XMP simply because I figured that I wasn't entirely sure on how it worked at the time and also the lights ontop of my RAM on the motherboard had gone from being white to red (apparently this is something to signify XMP is on but I figured to be better safe then sorry). After restarting my computer with XMP disabled, I once again noticed that my RAM speed had decreased back to 2133 MHz, however my Cache in chrome was still storing up to 630MB which made me wonder if it turned something on for XMP but not off when I disabled it, after some looking around in the BIOS I found that "Intel Turbo Boost" was enabled (Note: I've rarely ever looked in the BIOS since when I first built my PC, I was worried about ruining a setting in it or accidently turning the voltage for a component too high), anyways this concerned me since I thought it was something to do with overclocking but after a bit of searching I had heard that "Intel Turbo Boost" is automatically applied to some CPU's depending on their model (Mine being a I7-9700 3.6GHz), but even if that were the case it wouldn't explain why the max cache chrome was storing jumped from 300MB ---> 600MB. I also figured that perhaps Chromes settings got changed or the Cache it was referring to wasn't even to do with the CPU like the hard drive cache or something. Anyways, I've considered doing a few things being just say screw it, enabling MSI's XMP and then going on like normal, or reseting my BIOS to its factory settings so that it can get rid of any changes due to XMP, my only worry was this is that I heard that depending on what hardware you have, certain settings get enabled within the BIOS (E.G: depending on the CPU apparently intel turbo boost can get enabled) so I'm worried that if I factory reset it to its default settings, after restarting the PC those base settings that were set when I originally started up the Computer for the first time will not be applied. Even if it's not the CPU which has been effected since I don't know if Turbo Boost was enabled from the start, I feel as if something or the other was due to the extra cache whether it be Hard drive cache or something else. Anyways thanks for reading this and any help is appricated, I'm not really used to messing around in the BIOS or anything so sorry if some things aren't as clear. Specs: CPU: Intel core I7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8 cores (3600 MHz) RAM: Corsair Vengange 2x 8GB (3200 MHz) MOBO: MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON AC GPU: RTX 2070 Super

I'm in the process of selling my old Alienware pre-built PC and I'm keeping my old Seagate 1 TB hard drive that came with the system and replacing it with a 500 GB western digital HD that I got for cheap. I want to move windows and all of the dell applications to the new hard drive and whip the remaining files off of my old Seagate so I have a fresh hard drive. How do I do that?

How do i transfer the contents of my 1 TB hard Drive to my 1000GB NVMe SSD? This includes all windows 10 files.

I recently built a new computer and decided to have a 1 TB SSD and a 2 TB HDD, but the system doesn't seem to detect the new hard drive. I have gone to the disk management and it doesn't show up there, and when I enter the bios is doesn't appear there either. There also appears to be an issue in the device manager, though I am not sure what it is.

I'm selling an old Alienware Arura R7 to pay for my first PC build and I am going to reuse the Hard Drive in the system for my new one. What hard drive should I get that is under $20 and can fit all the windows and dell (Alienware) applications for the new user? Also, what's the easiest way to transfer windows and the dell applications between the two hard drives?

Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help me with an issue I’m experiencing with my PC. I built it back around 2016 and have had no real problems until now. About a year ago now my PC started occasionally making a loud noise when I would boot it up. It only happened every so often (maybe once I’m every 15 boots however it could have gone longer without doing it) but recently it has been becoming more frequent and for the first time today the noise started after my pc had been on for about 7 hours. I usually get rid of the noise by turning off the pc and turning it back on until the noise goes away since I’ve never had time to fix it however I really should get to the bottom of it I’ll see if I can attach a video of the noise as it has gone away for now so I can’t get any new recordings. Originally due to the noise sounding rotational I thought it might’ve been a hard drive but all my hard drives seem fine and I’ve health checked them and they all seem clear there too. The noise sounds to me like a fan bearing but I’m finding it hard to find the issue since the noise comes and goes. From hearing the volume of the noise I would say that the noise is coming from the top or backside of my pc. I have one fan mounted at the back and a radiator with two fans mounted on the top of the case. The graphics card is a GTX 1080ti. Link to video: https://youtu.be/-4lSH7T61wU Any input would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance

I recently found a great deal on eBay for some sas drives, and I know sas to sata converters exist, but I was wondering if the sas drives would work with a sata interface if I just cut out the piece of plastic in between the power and data pins or is their some software or electrical difference between the two that would cause this not to work?

Hi everyone, I have a WD 4tb external hard drive with USB type b plug(picture attached). I would ideally like to put this inside the tower because I kinda broke the outer shell of the drive and I don't need it to use in between other computers so I just want it inside the computer case. I have been googling to find a USB type b micro cable to Sata if that exists or even if there's any other method of not having this drive not outside on my desk or on top of my tower. I have a MSI B550 Gaming Edge motherboard if that helps. Thanks in advance and sorry if this was a stupid question.

Yes he does use two separate drives both installed with windows, one for work, one for games, however he installs his games on both so there is no point to what he did. Is there anyway to safely combine them into two users on one operating system so that he can save more storage? Edit: yes they are both windows, not even a different OS

can someone help me, I think my windows files are messing up somehow?, Minecraft win 10 edition doesn't open, my windows start icon doesn't work, I'm getting dev errors while opening cod, i suspect windows files on my hard drive are messing up because it was dev error 6036 (i think) and I searched it up and it said hard drive fail files or their corrupt. Thanks!

Hello. So I’m building my friend’s PC. Sadly I’ve never built with cases with integrated RGB. So the case she chose is an NZXT H510i with an ASUS PRIME Z390-A motherboard. I was wondering where I plug the case's RGB connectors to? Also, the NZXT H510i case has a USB-C on the front panel and I was wondering where I plug that connector to. The connector comes with the case, but I don’t know where to plug that onto the motherboard. Also, the motherboard comes with 2 NVMe SSD slots. The 1st which is closest to the CPU, and the 2nd one which is on the bottom of the motherboard. I read somewhere that if I use the 1st one, one of the SATA ports won’t work? She wants to use an NVMe SSD, SATA SSD, and a hard drive. Thoughts? Case: NZXT H510i Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z390-A

Hey everyone, I've been facing a problem with my laptop where my HDD(Firecuda) randomly disappears from the face of the earth and reappears after a reboot just to disappear again. I've followed all of steps I could find on Google like check the power connection (I just reseated the HDD cause Laptop), tried to do a defrag but the HDD, it just disappears after a while and defrag just stops. Did a chkdsk but it said nothing is wrong. Changing the drive letter didn't work at all. I even formatted the HDD, heck even reinstalled windows just to check if it's windows fault but to no avail. Can anyone help me with this?

Hey guys, so I'm getting a new P.C early next year and I want to move my current two terabyte hard drive over to the new system. The questions I have are that 1: windows is currently installed on my hard drive and for my new P.C, I want windows on the SSD that I get. I'm going to have to get windows again for the new P.C so, will the existing windows files in my hard drive effect anything? 2: Will the change effect any of the games and applications I already have installed on the Hard Drive? Any input and other suggestions would help a lot. (Note: I plan to get an Md2 NVMe for my new system)

i know its getting power because i hear the disk spinning.

I have a corrupted hard drive and was attempting to reinstall windows 10 64bit and it didn't work at all until I booted from the usb, so I finally booted from the usb and I started doing the install I deleted all my partitions and thought I was done. It got to 17% completion and then it just said cannot complete install and quote unquote "anything you have done will not be saved" I restart thinking u know what I can handle the crashes every 10 minutes, and then this happened (picture below). So I disconnected the usb Ctrl alt del and the thing said no operating system again. I don't have enough money to get a new hard drive right now but I literally can't download windows to the hard drive it's corrupted and it's not getting past 1% on the download anymore. I'm not 100% sure how I corrupted my hard drive but I know it was around the time I was playing 3 games and downloading a lot of stuff like 4gb downloads from chrome and extracts to folders to play other games, idk how to turn overclock off and stuff I'm not that smart

My current backup drives are quite full now (1x 4TB ST4000DM004 and 1x 4TB WD40NMZW WD external drive sent from BackBlaze as a data recovery drive) Both have some 600 GB free space left. My particular use case is: I usually back up my files once a month, after copy and pasting, I leave the drives connected to the computer for a few days so BackBlaze can sync up. After that I discoonect the external HD and turn off SATA power to the internal desktop drive, completing my 3-2-1 data backup scheme. I have no plans to switch to a NAS since Backblaze won't back up NAS devices (but PC + external drives totaling 7TB of data is fine to them...) Now, I am wondering if I should go buy an external hard drive or, go for a desktop hard drive or IronWolf. I might not shuck the external drive right away, unless advised to do so. (I do have a hard drive dock, but no SATA to spare on my Aorus elite... I can make room by remove the BD-Burner which burns super important data and old photos to M-disc. Right now I am considering buying a Seagate Expansion Desktop and Shuck it. Interestingly it appear Seagate will not honor warranty if the hard drive was shuck, while WD might. I think I can wait until next year too. Here are few external drives I am considering shucking... Seagate Expansion Desktop, 8 TB (STEB8000402) is only 108.20 EUR (1-year warranty in US?, 2-year in EU?) and appears have a Seagate desktop drive in it, so it probably can be just "plug and play" in a PC WD Elements Desktop, 8TB (WDBWLG0080HBK-EESN) is 118.55 EUR (2-year warranty) and likely a WD80EMAZ, it appears needs 3.3 v power mod (aka cover the 3.3 SATA pin) if I shuck it Other external options: Seagate Backup Plus Hub is at 139.99 (2-year warranty), not sure Seagate will use higher quality drive in the more premium external hard drive models... Seagate Desktop Drive is 137.90 EUR (2-year warranty); WD My Book Desktop 8TB is 142.8 The cheaper external hard drives are really enticing compare to: Toshiba N300 8TB NAS HDD HDWG180UZSVA at 179.95 EUR (3-year) Seagate Barracuda ST8000DM004 at 172.71 EUR (2-year warranty) Seagate IronWolf ST8000VNZ04 at 222 EUR WD Red Plus WD80EFAX at 211.54 EUR *6 TB drives are an option... but they are not that much cheaper: WD Blue WD60EZAZ 6TB are 119.90 Seagate Barracuda is 139.00 WD RED (not pro so, SMR) 155.90 3-YEAR P.S, I do know rumors that drive makers sell inferiors drives as external drives... but I doubt it since in Seagate's perspective, all their external drives need to have 2-year warranty (3 years if in Asia) just like the internal drives, there is little incentive do that for a large capacity 8TB drive. And for WD's case... well no one want their SMR WD Red eh?

Hardware: hp proliant dl360 g7 CPU: dual 6c RAM: 32gb HD Controller: Smart Array P410i Usage: Home Automation, Lab, File storage, and Plex I was able to get this at a great price. The only problem I have is that is came with 8x 300gb sas drives. I have 7 of the drives ina raid5 configuration which comes to around 1.5tb of storage. I am getting close to filling this up and am looking into replacing all the drives. I have done some research and the P410i controller downgrades the SAS connection from 6 to 3gb when a SATA drive is used. I am not a big hardware guy more software. If I replace the 7 drives with 1tb sata drives would I see much of a difference if they were running at 3gb? And if I get a new SAS pci controller do they downgrade as well or would they let a SATA drive run at full speed? Thanks

I have an old HDD that was laying around and wanted to repurpose it but i forgot to add a primary partition after cleaning. Is there any way to add a letter to a hard drive (make it recognizable) that has been 'cleaned' in cmd but wasn't set to have a primary partition? I can't create a simple volume or interact with the unallocated partition whatsoever because it isn't currently recognizable.

So I recently installed an extra hard drive in my laptop that was sitting around due to a lack in disc space. Almost ironically on par with that my laptop started to feel sluggish, everyday tasks I would normally do suddenly much slower, and unplayable games due to unknown reasons. I'm wondering if the hard drive is the culprit for all of this? If you want to see my specs, feel free. I've been into PC's for 3 years, but I'm no pro, and I STILL haven't been able to go all out on building a PC; if anyone could help, that would be awesome. I'm willing to do whatever I can and provide all diagnostics to anyone who thinks they can help.

Hello, I have a small case and I want to add more hard drives to my setup, I would prefer having a separate unit housing the driver, also I'd prefer to be relatively cheap (not full nest). There are those docks that enable the user to swap the drive easily but I want a strong and heavy so it will not fall off. Thanks for the help.

Hey all! So I am working on cloning a drive using this sabrent 2 bay hard drive adapter. It has an offline clone option (which I am using at this time), it has been going at it for almost 4 days at the time of writing this. My question is, if I was to turn it off and try using a clone tool off of my pc would it damage the drive that I am trying to clone? Asking because it has loads of really important files from years ago. I don't mind doing a full clean of the new drive and removing any corrupted files if there are any. Its just that I really don't think that a drive that is running off of sata going at the lowest of 100 MB/s is going to take this long. Thanks all!

Hello everyone, so i recently got an SSD and did a fresh install of my os on it. After launching my PC successfully after installing windows on my new ssd, i shut down my computer and reattached my old hard drive back to my motherboard for storage as i just got a 240 GB Kingston ssd to mainly just install my OS on. When i go to my BIOS (i have a MSI board) boot options to make sure my PC launches as my new SSD with my new install of windows on it instead of my old hard drive, both options just say Windows Boot Manager so i cant tell which is which... I don't want to accidently launch my computer with the old hardrive and its old os and possibly risk ruining my computer if thats even possible. Any help would be appreciated, sorry if i sound like a total noob. I can also attach pictures if anyone needs them. Thanks.

So here's my situation. I'm doing some post FX for a TV series and the edit drives they gave me are OWC Mercury Elite Pro Dock's setup in a Raid 0 and formatted as APFS. I have no access to a modern mac. I'm running a Windows 10 machine with an X570 Taichi and Gigabyte GC-Alpine Ridge Thunderbolt card. Drive is connected to gigabyte card via TB3 cable. TB3 Card and motherboard seem to be playing nice. The OWC Drives are detected in windows and even show up in disk management. I have however, been completely unsuccessful at mounting the drives. Things I have tried: - Paragon APFS for Windows: Can see the drive. If I click the mount button and assign it a drive letter nothing happens. The explore options is greyed out. I've tried restarting the drive, paragon's service and my computer. Note this software works fine for APFS usb drives I've tested. - MacDrive Pro - doesn't see the drive in its main page or repair page. If I open the MacDrive Disk Manager it shows the OWC drive but only 1 parition and my only option is to initialize or format it (not an option) - UFS Explorer - can see the drive and explore the files but as a software has no way to mount the drives for use in other programs. not really an option as I don't have equally sized spare drives to transfer the files to - TransMac - same as UFS explorer. Can see the drive and files, but no way to mount. Does anyone have any experience with APFS on windows? Is there any way to use this drive without a modern mac? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thinking of buying this prebuilt and these are my parts, PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor £130.95 @ AWD-IT CPU Cooler Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler £89.99 @ Amazon UK Motherboard ASRock B450M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard £83.89 @ More Computers Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory £65.98 @ Amazon UK Storage Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive £72.99 @ CCL Computers Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive £51.75 @ Amazon UK Video Card Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING OC PRO Video Card £317.97 @ Laptops Direct Case Corsair 275R Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case £59.99 @ Amazon UK Power Supply Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply £104.99 @ AWD-IT Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total £978.50 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-21 21:46 BST+0100 Is this all compatible, if not where are my faults. Thank you for any help

Hey guys, so I'm busy refurbishing a PC I bought at school for my mom for basic office use. And I need some advice on hard drives. Ideas I have: Would it be a good idea to take a hard drive from one computer (my mom's computer) and installing it into the school PC? Would I lose anything from my mom's drive? Or Is there a way to transfer all the files from 1 drive to another without transferring Windows 10 as well? Thanks in advance! Regards Prime Minister