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Hello, friends! As the topic states, i've been watching all the reviews and unboxings, I have been considering my build and I feel like my head is going to explode because I cannot decide on a case. At this point, it has come down to the NZXT H440 or the Corsair 750D (probably the airflow edition). I am having such a hard time deciding because they are all great cases and my issues between them all are so small its just impossible for me to choose. So for the love of science, would someone, or all of you, just tell me what to do. My issues with the 750D: Can't remove the 5.25 bays. redundancy annoys me. No fan filters on the bottom after you remove the drive bays. (I will be using the SSD mounts in the back) It's dated. Issues with the H440: I'd like a bigger window. Possible airflow issues? I don't love the PSU shroud. It's smaller than the 750D. This is going to be the first computer i've ever built, it will be for gaming. Due to money constraints it won't happen straight away but ultimately I want a machine thats going to be able to run 2016 games at 4k or across 3 1440p monitors. A tall order, I know, but it will happen eventually. Point is - expandability. As this is going to be my first build it's going to be a bit of a learning experience and i'm not adverse to being punished for bad cable management in the 750D which is why I don't love the PSU shroud in the H440. That and also I think EVGA's PSUs look kind cool. Another Question I have for you all: Radiators. I will be getting one of EK's AIO CPU liquid coolers, 240 or 360, depending on what you lovelies tell me here. Front mounted radiators: the general consensus (from what i've read) seems to be that they are a bad thing, because why would you want to push that hot air generated by the CPU back into the computer. My limited logic however says that same argument could be made the other way, why cool your CPU with the hot air from your PC? Further more, wouldn't you be better served cooling the CPU with dat phresh room temp air? The reason I want to go front mounted is because EK's radiators are thick and i'd be able to run a push/pull configuration in a 750D with a 240mm rad, and I think (H440 owners pleas confirm this for me, I know you'd be able to do it, but would there be GPU length issues?) a 360 in the front of the H440 in push/pull config. Also for the 750D owners; can you have a rad in the front and still get both fans in the bottom where the drive cages would go? A lot of you will ask if I want to air or liquid cool, as stated, 50/50. I'll be liquid cooling the CPU initially, and would love at some point to expand and liquid cool my GPU but being that this is my first build, i'm keeping it relatively simple. I'm open to everyone suggesting cases other than these two! I just love how clean these cases are. Thanks guys! Can't wait to hear back. Buying my case next week and this decision has been driving me insane.

Hi guys, I just got my Matte Black H440. I have white accents inside, now I need a good magnetic white light kit. Does anyone know any good light kits for the H440?

Will the Coarsair H110I GT Fit in the top of the NZXT H440? I;m having some clearance issues with it.

Hello building my PC and now i am installing X61 Kraken, but backplate doesnt want to fit on its place..... on the back of H440[Red] there is thing that blocks left down end of the backplate. HELP!

I BUILT THIS BAD BOY RECENTLY, AND HE HOLDS UP EXCEPTIONALLY AMONG OTHER MORE BEEFY BUILDS. Hugo costs around $1500 USD given purchases are made from the most economically efficient merchant. Starting from the outside to the back-plate, Hugo is built inside of a White NZXT H440 Windowed Mid-tower Case and made possible by his motherboard, the Gigabyte Z97x Gaming 5. Lots of room for cable management and a top of the line heat sink or radiator; I went with the Noctua NH-D15 heatsink because of it's critical acclaim for being one of the beefiest heatsinks on the market. With 2 140mm fans bound against two seven prong radiators, it keeps my i5-4690k cool as a cucumber in December. (i5-4690k overclocked to 4.4GHz at 1.19 V) Next on the list, is my choice of memory which consists of two Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600MHz 8 GB dimms. For storage, I tucked a 1 TB Seagate Barracuda HDD and a Crucial MX100 250 GB SSD within the roomy drive bays (Perhaps another SSD for RAID O?). My GPU is the go-to GTX 970 Windforce revision and underneath it lies its neighbor sound card, Soundblaster Z. With the Corsair RM-750 PSU powering this whole rig, I decided to mount 2 Noctua NF-A14's to the top vent since there is such an insane amount of power headroom. Hugo runs like a champ on so far any games I have thrown at it -- that meaning, my entire Steam Library, Battlefield 4, Titanfall, the works. If you want good performance and a toasty room, Hugo has you covered. P.S. Why the name Hugo? My local grocery store sells a giant hoagie sandwich for $5 dollars and it's called The Hugo. I really like them sandwiches, so I named my build in lieu of eating said sandwiches. PART LIST: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/y9yCf7 12234537_1487860694877208_2089829399_n.mp4

with what should i paint the outside of the case with I want to cover up the black panels with white and have a red white and black build

So im building my First PC in the NZXT H440 and im wondering what screws i should use for the motherboard installation the 6-32 Screw Flat, or the M3*5Flat

So, this is my very first post, and not even in my native language... so please be kind What is this about? As you may guess, it's an illumination modification from the standard Razer's acid-green to a IR controlled RGB led stripe, on the NZXT H440 case. (Actually, it looks better than the photo... damn cellphone's cameras) How difficult is this mod for me to perform? Well, OCD aside, it's quite simple. That, of course, depending on how much time and effort you wanna put onto it. How much does it cost? Around US$ 30/40 (assuming you already have all the tools) What do I need to perform it? 12V RGB LED Stripe (duh), 2 or 3 m IR LED controller Precision wire cutter Knife or Cutter Phillip screwdriver (N°1 will do) Soldering iron Tin (I recommend a 0.8 mm diameter) Thermal-shrink tubes (for about 2mm, 5mm and 10mm final contraction) 5m of 22 or 24 AWG wire (an ethernet patchcord CAT 5e or 6 will do) Zip ties, electrical tape, wire ties (optional). Glue gun (optional) OK, lets get started... BEFORE ANYTHING Think! Visualize what you want, then draw it on a piece of paper, a nap, or whatever you have in order to calculate wire longitudes, paths and final layout. Even better, surf the web for ideas, past experiences from other users, and tips and recommendations. When you're on unexplored waters, you definitely want to have a compass... or a great amount of faith Also, make sure your workplace is wide and tidy, I can't tell you how much annoying is to lose a precision alignment or a critical soldering because you just don't want to stack away something that blocks your angle or visual. (yep, it doesn't matter how ugly you draw it, as long as you make a clear work route) Remember that the wires lengths should keep a fair amount of gain (this is: a + 10/20% of length of your base calculation) for those places where the original "diagonal-direct path" have several centimeters less that the "go neat and tidy by this path, and then over here, here and here...". If you have no trouble in cable's supply, let the maximum calculated length be the limit... and even, add a 20% more of length just in case (yep, better more than less). Of course, the stock lights need to be put aside. For the bottom ones, they are fixed by a couple of screws that holds the enclosure. Not a challenge... The side and front logo? Keep reading! And so, it begins Ok, so according to your mental blueprint, you should measure each stripe and cut it by the dotted line, followed by stripping the insulation (in case you have a water-proof stripe). A great explanation for it, as a guide in general, is provided by M-L on this post, and this images. (Always measure the length of each stripe to be LESS than the housing where you're going to use it. Remember that any cut made beyond the soldering copper, will leave the RGB LEDs inoperative) Remember that each stripe should be daisy-chained in a linear fashion, that eventually ends in a 4 pin connector that hooks up onto the RGB controller. In my case, I used the 3 pin fan hub to concentrate all the "circuits" of light, and then on the 4th pin (the +12V one), twisted all together and insulate it properly. Make sure you use the same colors in the order established by the LED stripe, or some circuits will light up different colors than expected. (Order is fundamental, take notes of every "convention" you use and stick to it, no matter what you read or what someone tells you) Also, take your time to insulate the connections properly, don't forget that this is an electric connection directly powered by your PSU (more of this later), you DON'T want a short circuit of any kind. You can accomplish this by using thermal shrink tubes of different sizes (according to the weight of your wire), electrical tape, or even a glue gun. Proper insulation is fundamental, this is an ELECTRICAL MOD (And YES, a heat gun would have been a better choice...) The PSU Shroud The first major mod will have place on Razer's logo, both on the side within the PSU shroud, and the front main logo. Regarding the side panel, the whole side panel is held by several metal "tongues", which you must straighten so the plate gets free. Once outside, four screws hold the inner case where the green light is housed. (The side panel comes out with little effort... not so the green layer of paint) Once there, comes the most hateful of all parts: removing the green layer of paint that covers the acrylic panel from the logo. (SPOILER ALERT: it won't look good) (I wish someone had told me "Dude, just DON'T") At first I tried with a pointed tweezers, but then I found that a small torx screwdriver fitted better. You may find useful whatever tool you have, as long as the job is done. Keep in mind that an inner bevel help you a little bit by letting the tool "travel" along the groove. I have no idea if a dremel drill tool with a small point could make this less hateful, but if you have one to try and come back with your expertise, BE MY GUEST. (It keeps getting worse) Anyway, no matter what I used, it was an awful experience. The type of material was a kind of synthetic paint that, even with care and patience, it peeled off and cracked it beyond the logo lines... man, I hated myself, at NZXT, and even Min-Liang Tan. You may think that the same goal could be achieved by using some kind of black tape, or even a plastic cover... but no, green-vomit paint will be. The partial solution when the cracks spread out too much, is to paint it back with a black sharpie the borders above the bevel and the inner snake pattern. Hopefully, this will make a little less horrible the final product. In any case, the final outcome will be camouflaged by the light, making this a little more hopeful... unless you get to look at it at 1 feet away (Same kind of Death was encountered at front logo) The next step will be attaching the light strips so most part of the logo gets covered. All this, aligned the most centered you can, in order to avoid light diffusion problems or unexpected shadows. Keep in mind the screw holes, and the subtle elevation that the cover has on that side of the plastic (inevitable if you want that the lights be at center respect to the logo). I even had to peel off the inner sides of the screws holes so the lights fits in properly. (Daisy-chain in a way that the cables don't make too much bump) Find the most suitable path for the cables to get out of the enclosure, in a way that they don't cause congestion and generate problems when closing the cover. Help you out by using some tape that sticks the stripes and cables to the desired position. Zip ties here won't help, since the inner space of the enclosure won't let you use them... (also, they won't help you on fix the movement. Maybe a glue gun?) The Front Logo Now, regarding the front logo: obviously it's on the front panel, and the enclosure is behind the acoustical absorption foam. This foam, of course, it's glued to the panel. Not that it's impossible to remove, but it does get difficult when the glue tears apart with the foam included. (Go easy on the foam, use your fingers by lifting it enough so the cutter goes smoothly) Make your way until the front logo panel it's at hand. Then, use the same technique used on side logo by keeping in mind the small increment on size (you'll need 5 stripes instead of 3 for full cover). (Once again, daisy-chain several stripes to cover almost every corner of the logo) When you get the stripes presented and glued/fixed/taped/whatever on position, go backwards and re-glue the foam. (Make sure you cover nicely the surface of the foam) The final step with this cover will be to glue a stripe along the mesh. I separated a couple of cm from the edge so that the light can get inside the case (at that height, the fan's stand won't cast a shadow from the lights) (Choose the side where the cables will go down so that matches with your hub location... or at least, the most shorter path) REMEMBER: the front and top panel needs additional cable length in order to give you the ability to move them and rearrange the front/top fans if needed. Except if you use a 4 pin connector between the case and the panel, you'll need approx. 20/30 cm of "loose" cable. (when closed, this cable length goes inside without zip ties). 20160119_175242000_iOS.MOV The logo won't be perfect, but at distance it's acceptable. Top Panel Just as the front panel, glue a stripe along the mesh a couple of cm of the edge, and leave enough cable for later management. (Nope, no picture of top panel... but take a look at my gorgeous cat!) Under Motherboard First step is obvious: take note of the size of your motherboard and cut the stripes accordingly. In my case, an ATX form factor takes about 2 by 4 stripes and 1 by 5. Take a look again of where are you going to connect the cables, and daisy-chain the stripes respecting that layout. The inner frame from the standoff screws gives you the path for the stripes. In this case, I found that for an inner glow that stands out without pumping out too much bright, I should follow the standoffs for the mobo, following the inner frame. At that instance, the light will come out as decoration and not so much as illumination. 20160125_174627000_iOS.MOV More or less, the MOBO light effect. Backplate light You'll need to remove the leds stands that are on the backplate, so that you can stick a single stripe onto it. The only precaution here will be that the width of that plate makes it very difficult to manage the cables to go smoothly and won't let you work comfortably. Once again, take note of the insulation of the tips of the stripes! Check the image above, I even had to cut one side of the stripe contacts so that fits in the plate. This won't affect the RBG leds since the cut it's at the end of the copper contact, and wont' brake any circuits paths. For the cable management, you may find that the narrow opening between the plate's folds won't be enough, but with patience and fitting one cable at a time, you'll make them bend over it. The On/Off light switch Originally, this case has a global on/off switch for ALL the lights on the case, but since the RGB controller can be turned off by the remote, I thought in using the switch for a A/B light configuration. The light switch has two modes for operation, not just an "on/off" capability. Again, since you have previously invested an amount of time to think the lights and circuits of lights on the case (recall the BEFORE ANYTHING part of this post), at this point you should have an A circuit and a B circuit. What I've done is give at the A circuit an "always on" state (no matter the switch position, as long as the RGB controller it's ON, the lights will be ON), and give at the B circuit a "conditional state" that depends on the switch (the lights will only turn ON if both the RGB controller and the switch are ON). What this allows me to do, is that if I feel like I don't want too much bright from the lights or just WHATEVER, I can simply switch it off and be happy In order to do this, you'll need a tester to figure out which pins close, which ones open, and where are the common ones. For this model, the pinout for the switch is as follows: The switch allows you to command two states and two circuits. So 2 combinations can be made by the "on/off" capability. In my configuration, I only use one side of the switch (and only the "on" state). So when I turn it ON, all the lights pop up, but OFF will leave the logos and under MOBO circuit. In other words, the "common" pin goes to the +12V on the led strip and the "on" pin goes to the +12V from the PSU. Final lap! You've come a long way down, and now it's time to put all the pieces together. If you done this in a orderly fashion, all the cable management will be neat and tidy, and all the led cables will be concentrated on the "fan hub", leaving the 4th pin (the +12V) all around the hub. The next step will be to "grab" the +12V rail from a molex connector. Remember this pinout to identify it (no worries if you fail and connect it on the +5V like I did... it just won't light up and you then will realize it ). When done, you'll be finally over with all the soldering, zipping, taping and blah and, cable more or less, end up with something like this: Final outcome (opposite to window-side) Nope, nothing to describe here... just showing off (Window-side) Only thing to take note here is the IR receiver from the RGB controller. Since the length of the cable is quite short, you'll need to secure this little box to the bottom panel, and use the hole for the bottom lights to slide in the receiver. Since the receiver it's quite directional, you'll need to slide it out just enough for it to be seen at sight. Chroma, completed! Congratulations! Now you have a custom made RGB controlled case! You can also buy an RGB controlled keyboard and mouse to complete the scheme, and even RGB light bulbs, and since you are onto rainbows, AN UNICORN! But, whatever the choice you made, now you can set your lighting scheme according to your mood! Enjoy, and remember: maybe one day this will be an official product and sold by hundreds of dollars more! Now, some photos of the case! Yeah!!! Purple theme Orange (again: damn cellphone cameras) And even the Razer's Acid Green And full bright power from white combination. 20160212_005256000_iOS.MOV Video Show!

I just got a H440 NZXT case and would like to mount my H100i GTX in the front pulling air in. My question is would it be ok to mount it with the tubes on top of the radiator or dies the loop have air in it that will cause trouble? I am not sure of the tubes are long enough to have them on the bottom.

So I have a probably very simple to answer question here. I'm using the razer h440 case by NZXT and I am also using the h100i v2 by corsair. I have the fan hub plugged into my cpu fan header and the h100i cable plugged into the cpu slot on the hub. I assume this isn't correct as all fans will run the same speed determined by the cpu and I cannot control the fan speeds. Where should this hub be plugged into?

I want an h440 to match my black/green peripheral colors, so either the razer one or the black/green one; I was wondering if both of those got the new edition treatment last year (better fan hub, nicer hdd caddys and bigger vents), or wether my choices are limited to the black/white, all black, black/blue, and black/red that came out last year on the revision.

So I have bought a new NZXT H440 New Edition case today. It has a https://azerty.nl/_azerty/data/product/8/5/5/855326/img/12/G.jpg at the back. You plug it in with power to a MOLEX adapter and 1 PWM cable plugs into CPU FAN (1 or 2). So I did this, right. Fans where reasonably loud, like the PWM function wasn't working and they all ran on 100%. At a later moment, I grabbed myself a 4x 3PIN Fan Splitter and put it onto SYSFAN1 with all the fans connected to that, and boom, their silent. Why does this PWM Fan Hub not work?

Hey everyone, does anyone know a Desktop Case that is silent, yet isn't either an NZXT H440 or a Fractal Design Define R5. My budget is around 100$/€. Please help, i have had an eye on the be quiet! Silent Base 600, but i heard that it isn't even that silent. Thanks.

I'm buying an AIO water cooler and I need your help to determine which one I should use for an NZXT H440. It will be mounted on the top side of the case and would value your recommendation.

Hello guys can you share you thoughts with me about Airflow in NZXT H440. What will be the best option? Here are two models i did by myself and a little help from friend: Btw the fans will be from the bottom of the Kraken x61 on the second picture, 0so they can push up. Excuse my misstake Thank you in advance! - Redjo

I'm thinking of building my first PC, I have two options, http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/ZRHQjX or http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/BtGwMp is there anything I can improve for cheaper? I'm trying to keep it a blue and black theme.

Hi dear fellow reader, I'd like to know what's causing the humming noise in my case. It makes a really low humming noise, but not anything like a faulthy PSU. Whenever I put my feet against the sidepanel, it stops humming. Any explanation for this? Thanks in advance! Scrappy

On pcpartpicker, I created a build guide, and it states the h440 does not have enough clearance for 3 GPU's, can someone please confirm the space and if it can support 3 980ti's? Thanks

Vinyl-wrapping my white NZXT H440 I haven´t really found anything about vinyl wrapping on this forum. So I thought I´d post this, maybe it helps some of you or gives inspiration. I just wrote this stuff down out of my mind, sorry if it´s in a weird order. So last week i collected some ideas out of my mind to execute on the weekend. One of which was to vinyl-wrap my pc case. 1 year ago i built a custom pc along with the NZXT H440 to showcase my interior. Though, i got bored of the looks. I have watched a lot of car-wrapping videos and stuff recently so i thought it would be awesome to do this with a PC case. Luckily, the H440 is a fairly simple case with plain, clean panels. So i went ahead and searched around on amazon for vinyl-wraps. Material choice: I didn´t want to spend too much money on something that i may fail at/i dont like, so i didnt choose some high-quality stuff like the popular 3M DI-NOC. I went for a relatively cheap black-carbon wrap with good reviews. After 2 days the (tall) package arrived and in addition to that i had picked up a scalpel for doing precise cuts (5 bucks). The materal is pretty thin, but cool looking. The surface is riffled, but there are no actual "fibres", which is expected at this price. It has some smell to it, though, the smell faded after few hours So overall this wrap seems pretty okay! First steps/practice: To be able to work properly, some equipment is needed. So i grabbed a - hairdryer - scalpel - ruler (not mandatory) - squegee (with soft material) - damp cleaning cloth I´ve never worked with vinyl wrap before so it´s a good idea to practice first, before messing up a whole lot of wrap. So i grabed a Zowie FK1 and tried to wrap it. I cut a piece of the size of the mouse + some extra material for curves and stuff. You dont want to have like 0.5 cm of missing material. And thats even worse on the big side panels of the H440. Bigger is better in this case. I worked along the mouse1 & mouse2 buttons until i reached the large curverture at the end. This was by far the most difficult part (maybe a mouse is not the best example to begin with in the first place) and i had to head up and stretch the material quite a bit. The streching and heating caused the pattern to strain, so be careful not to heat up the material too much. Eventually it kinda worked out so i took the knife and cut, beginning at the mouse1 & 2 buttons again. The lines of the body were easy to see so i just squeezed the knife inbetween the gap and cut along the line. But it became more and more difficult as i moved on to the curve of the mouse, ending up missing the gap and cutting at the wrong place (i´m a terribly impatient person) (which doesn´t really matter, because the matt coating of the mouse came off already anyways). So I removed the wrap completely. I looked around for a new volunteer for my devilish experiments. My eyes aimed straight at the Nexus 5 chillin´around there. So i removed the back with a guitarpick-like tool, cleaned the back and began applying the wrap. With the scalpel, i was able to remove the unnecessary protruding material easily. The most difficult part was the camera/flash cutout, i´d say. Things i have noticed: - Don´t overhead the material, it gets pretty soft - You get cleaner edges, when you stretch the material all the way around to the other side - DONT use your fingernail to squeeze out airbubbles or anything else, it will damage the wrap Wrapping the H440: My PC stands with the right sidepanel towards the wall, so minor flaws wont be that apparent when doing it the first time with the right sidepanel. I removed it, cleaned it and then cut a piece of the size of the panel + again, extra material (about 3 cm on each side). I removed the Paperlayer and placed the wrap on the table, with the sticky side facing up (which was a major mistake!). Following i placed the panel onto the wrap carefully...aaand there were wrinkles all over the place. Luckily I was able to remove the wrap without any damage. So I tried it the other way around. I partially applyed the wrap and removed the airbubbles with the squegee right away. Otherwise you would have to reapply the skin or make a little whole with a needle later on for the air to escape. Now, i had to make the edges right. I removed the extra material, until there was around 0.5 - 1 cm of extra material on each side left. Then, i used the hairdryer to bend the material around the edges to the other side. As i worked my way around, i always paid attention to straighten the wrap out propberly (not too strong). On the panel, the handle was defenitely the most callanging part. It is curved and edgy, having to heat up the materal lots of times and straighten out the material using the squeegee. Though, the wrap didn´t completely stick to the edge (see pic). But, it was done. the first panel and the look was pretty cool tbh. The next three panels were the more difficult parts. The left sidepanel having the acryl-window and the other to having 90° curves as well as front I/O. I also had to separate the plsatic part from the top and front panel to be able to wrap around the edges properly. Here are some problems i faced: - small wholes for the front I/O - Round corners/curves Solutions/Tips: - For small wholes, cut alot of slices in the material and squeeze a pencil or something similar through the whole. Then you can bend the slices around and stick it to the back. - Again, slice the wrap to about ~0.2 cm away from the material and then stretch it around the corner/curve. PICS: (i hope this spiler thingy works. Blame my Note 2 for potato-pics :c) Conclusion: Summing up, it was surprisingly easy to do, but with a timestamp of ~8h it´s a bit timeconsuming. Take your time! I did breaks, when i noticed that i was getting impatient. The result mostly satisfies me (well, the NZXT. lettering is not TAHT clean) and i´m planning to buy white wrap to skin the interior (SSD, ...), so i can call that build Oreo. However, thanks for reading this long, happy-ending story and feel free to ask me any question as well as pointing out any grammatical flaws (not a native speaker ._.). tl;dr: It´s cool. Update: I got myself some white wrap and just finished wrapping some parts. I´ll post some additional pics, when i´m finished painting my GPU.

Not going to lie, I have a superb setup. Details below. But I have $100 that I get to spend, and am wondering if there is any ideas you guys might have to help boost my performance? Maybe make it look cooler? I just don't know what to get... Setup: Case: NZXT H440 in Black and Blue Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mach 1 with custom painted blue shield Processor: i7-4790k with custom laser etched Swiftech Apogee XL Graphics Card: EVGA Titan X superclocked with EK Acetal + Nickel full cover waterblock RAM: 16GB G. Skill ram with 7 7 7 21 CAS latency Boot Drive: Intel 750 series NVME Solid State drive Storage Drive: 3 Seagate 2TB 7400 RPM hard drives in RAID0 Storage on network: 32TB server Radiator 1: Aerocool Monstaa 2x140 80mm thick Radiator 2: Swiftech 3x120 30mm thick Pump: Swiftech MCP50X Fans: Aerocool DS 140mm or 120mm fans in respective spots (6 total) Power Supply: Corsair RM1000 Lighting: Fans plus 2m NZXT blue LED strip Monitor 1: Asus VG248QE (144hz, 1920x1080) Monitor 2: My Vizio 55" 4k TV (60Hz, 3840x2160) Keyboard: Razer Black Widow Chroma Mouse: Razer Death Adder Chroma Headphones: Astro A50 wireless headphones so as you can see, there is not really room for upgrade there. At least not within the $100 range. Unless I am missing something somehow? Non of my games (even crysis 3) run below the 144Hz mark on the highest settings, I could not really get a better processor for gaming (the i7-6700k has proven to be a terrible successor when it comes to games). I am honestly at a loss. I don't like flashy, so decals and figurines are out. I like that it is quiet and mostly hidden away. I have all the storage and speed I could possibly need/want. I am just at a loss is all. Does anybody have any ideas?

Hi everyone, I'll be doing my first PC build based off this video: I have planned my version of it on pcpartpicker.com, heres the link to it: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/23Yxpg I am fairly confident in the compatibility of all the parts, but of course tell me if I am mistaken. The M.2 is to be the boot drive and the SSD for mass storage (more will be added when needed and as price continues to drop). 850w power supply is for possibly running a second card in SLI in the future. MAIN QUESTION: Will I be able to mount the second radiator? I'll be using the GPU liquid cooling adapter from Corsair as I read the H440 has rather poor GPU cooling capabilities and I intend to overclock it. My concern is that the radiator hoses will not be able to reach the top of the case, where I intend to mount the radiator because its closer than the front of the case from there the GPU is. The CPU cooler will run to the front and use the top two 120mm fan slots, I'm pretty sure I need to remove some drive bay cages to do that. I have been able to find that the hoses are 11.5 inches long and with the gpu towards the center of the about 19 inch tall case, I think it should fit. I do have a little concern about the hoses needing to bend around and back up because of the way the GPU is facing and losing some of the hose length because of it. Also, from what I understand, it's best to run intake over the radiators. This would put me at five 120mm intakes and only one 140mm exhaust. Slightly positive pressure is best, again from what I understand, but that seems like quite a bit of positive pressure. I could of course make life easy and get a case designed with GPU cooling in mind, but the H440 gets me all hot and bothered. I may also be over-doing it, but I'm a numbers junkie and want to see how cool I can run the rig. Will it work? Am I a fool who has put together a build that won't work at all and you'd like to insult my mother? Any advice would be helpful, and insults entertaining. Thanks.

I'm in the process of ordering parts for my first build http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/493504-black-friday-gaming-rig-first-build/ I made this post because I'm stuck on the case. There is an option for Matte black/red: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146149&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Cases+%28Computer+Cases+-+ATX+Form%29-_-N82E16811146149&gclid=Cj0KEQiAm-CyBRDx65nBhcmVtbIBEiQA7zm8lWV93xdQOoJvfop50zEn3aE64Gu0s8bIHqNyAukYmzsaApNr8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds and another option for Matte black/red new edition: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146217 Are they the same thing? What are the advantages and disadvantages of getting the newer one over the older one and vice versa?

My setup is a NZXT H440, MSI Z97A Gaming 7, 4790K, and a Corsair H100i GTX. I have the Corsair mounted in the top with two Noctua 120mm PWM fans mounted on it. No OC at all. It's set up to push out the top cover. With the top cover on the H440, my CPU rockets up to 80 degrees celsius under load. When i take the top cover off it drops to 65 degrees under load. I can't mount it in the front because of hard drives. Anyone else experience this or have this issue?

I am looking to set up a water cooling loop in my NZXT H440, I am planning to have the base unit be the Swiftech H320 x2 (320mm radiator) mounted in the top, and the left over 240mm radiator I have from my Raijintek Triton (the reservoir cracked). I was wondering if this set up would fit or if I would need to go with something smaller like the Swiftech H240 x2. Help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Hello Guys I wanted to build a white case with my hue+. originally i had the enthoo evolv atx in mind but the black interior absorbs the colours and witha white inerios it would pop nicely. CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($399.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($121.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($94.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($289.99 @ Amazon) Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX Mid Tower Case ($169.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Other: Galax GTX 980 Ti Hall of Fame Now i am worried that these components could get uncomfortably hot/overheating whats your opinion guys? thx a lot in advance.