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Hello people, My old GTX 1080 recently started giving up and since I'm on a budget I found a used MSI GTX 1080ti Fe on eBay for a decent price (185€ negotiable). Unfortunately, this 1080ti is equipped with Heatkiller IV water-cooling an I would have to build it back to air-cooling so I can use it in my build. The seller told me he has all the original parts and I would only need new cooling pads. I would like to ask you guys if anyone thinks it would be a good idea to buy this card and if there are any decent guids on how to build this card back for a noob who never messed with opening a GPU? Thank you in advance :D

A few months I decided to upgrade my hardware. I changed the motherboard, CPU, GPU, PSU. I'll also note that it was a switch from Intel to AMD CPU. (upgrades: ASRock B550M-HDV, Ryzen 5 5600G, GTX 1080ti) Upon installing my hardware I decided to boot up my Windows 10 system as is, no reinstall, no modifications. It ran, but I realised there is an audio issue - a crackling, popping sound. It's not always there, and mostly pops up during: While I bought the CPU and MoBo new GPU and PSU I purchased used, however I am 100% they are not faulty, as I am familiar with the system they have been previously installed in and it performed flawlessly Any application running in fullscreen mode (sometimes) Having 2 applications in fullscreen mode on 2 separate screens (pretty much always) Switching windows/tabs Different windows error sounds - at the very beginning I can clearly hear a pop This has been driving me absolutely insane. I'm begging for help as I'm on the verge of trashing this system and starting anew. I have tried many fixes: Formatting all drives and performing a clean OS install making sure it's not going to install in any legacy mode (Windows 11) Trying different audio drivers Trying different NVidia drivers Checking for IRQ conflicts (none present besides HPET and System timer, but this is not incorrect AFAIK) Reinstalling NVidia driver with NVCleanstall making sure MSI is enabled Made sure there is no power saving mode turned on in Windows (not sure about the BIOS/UEFI settings) Disabling/uninstalling unnecessary devices Updated my BIOS to newest Making sure HAGS is enabled in graphic settings in Windows Many other different "obvious" fixes found online I'll also note that I have ASIO4ALL low latency audio driver installed, but it's only running when I have my E-Drum software on (and there are no audio issues with that - might be because I'm never putting any considerable stress on my PC while drumming). Could Asio be the culprit? //quick edit: I forgot to mention - this problem seems to be somehow connected/amplified when computer has been woken up from sleep. Disabling fast boot and making sure the computer hasn't slept the issue is waaaaay better but still present. (found on https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/game-ready-drivers/13/471903/bug-report-audio-crackling-after-sleep-since-drive/) I ran quick a 30 second LatencyMon test where I launched Diablo IV with a fullscreen YouTube playback on my other monitor. I'll note that audio crackling was present: in the YouTube video - for the entire duration in game - during the in-game cinematic, not after Here are the LatencyMon results:

Greetings, as stated in the title i woke up today and to my surprise my GTX 1080TI FTW3 DT isn't displaying video. A bit of background, this was my first build that i did in 2018 so i don't have warranty for it; this issue has happened before, i restarted my computer and connected the DP to another port and that fixed my issue before, i was not that lucky this time around. I've tried many methods like moving the card to another slot but i got nothing, the card is turned On, i can see the fans and leds working but no video, the card also doesn't appear in device manager. I've seen some post with the same issue and they all say that the card is most likely dead... i want to give an opportunity to my card, can someone give me and idea. PD: Sorry for the broken english.

SECOND AND FINAL UPDATE: After thorough testing I've confirmed that this is a software issue with Nvidia which is unfortunately beyond our control. I've found only one workaround and that is to turn off "Extend these displays" and use "Show only on X" (X being whatever your G-Sync monitor's number is) while you play games with G-Sync enabled. I've confirmed that this has completely resolved all issues and crashes for me. I know this isn't the solution you were expecting, especially if you use your second monitor to do other things (e.g. read chat messages) while gaming on your primary, but it's better than nothing as at least you don't have to completely unplug your secondary monitor(s) and can continue to use it as long as you don't run games. Multi-monitor G-Sync will only crash with games running, so you don't need to constantly turn G-Sync off and on while you're doing anything else (e.g. browsing or working). You'll only need to disable display extension while gaming. This solution is mostly aimed at people who use their G-Sync display as their main monitor and primarily for gaming, and only use their secondary monitor(s) for work (for example: if you are an artist and have a pen display connected). Of course, you can always just disable G-Sync altogether and use all your screens as you like without issues, and if you play competitive games (e.g. Valorant), it's recommended that you do turn it off to reduce latency. I hope this thread has helped some of you. Merry Christmas to all and a happy new year. UPDATE FOR ALL G-SYNC MONITOR OWNERS EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE (READ THE DETAILED LETTER BELOW THE UPDATE): I've made a discovery after many tests. For currently unknown reasons, it was having G-Sync enabled with a second non-G-Sync monitor plugged in at the same time that caused the random Windows 10 crashes/freezes. I am still running further tests to figure out why G-Sync was exclusively causing this with a second monitor plugged in, but if you are having the same issue make sure you have ONLY the G-Sync display plugged in and no other monitor. This should solve any crashing/freezing issues (no guarantees of course, issues vary). It seems this is not a new issue with Nvidia, as I found similar threads for other monitors and PC specs from a few years ago, but they were using G-Sync compatible monitors. Well, seems this issue can apparently appear in native G-Sync as well. I will update this thread again when/if I have further news and/or a solution (so other monitors can be plugged in at the same time too). ----------- Hello, I recently purchased a new monitor, the ASUS ROG Swift PG279QM. It's running at 1440p 240Hz and has a native Nvidia G-Sync module. My GPU is ASUS' GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC. Nothing is overclocked. When G-Sync is on, the PC will randomly freeze forever during games until I hard-restart it via the reset button on the case. Here is how the crash proceeds: Game image will freeze entirely and permanently. Keyboard and mouse will lose signal and no longer function at all (keyboard caps lock etc. will not register either, so no LEDs). These two will maintain their electricity but if the keyboard is unplugged and replugged during the freeze, it will not get its power back. The mouse will. Though still nothing functions. Sound will keep playing in the background for about one minute but will gradually lose volume until it finally gets distorted and also gets cut off completely. At this point everything is nonoperational. Important notes: The PC does not, ever, restart on its own, regardless of how long I wait. If I don't use the reset button to restart the system, it will stay frozen like that forever. In this frozen state, the PC's hardware continues to work normally. There is no throttling or fans stopping or speeding up, everything carries on as usual. Since this is not registered as a crash/bluescreen by Windows, but just an unexpected manual restart, there is zero info on what failed prior to the freeze. If during the freeze the PG279QM is turned off and back on, it will turn on with extremely low brightness and no image (the previous game image that froze will be gone). I will still be able to open the OSD but see it just barely due to the low brightness. However, it will retain all of its settings, as the OSD will still show 1440p 240Hz and G-Sync (the LED on the monitor will also remain red indicating G-Sync is on). Note that the settings include the brightness. The monitor does not drop its setting to low brightness, it becomes dark with the normal brightness setting still there. However, if the PG279QM is unplugged from the GPU and then replugged, just like the keyboard, it will no longer receive signal at all, stating that no input was detected, at which point the brightness of the monitor returns to normal. So whatever causes the darkening specifically at least must come from a massive GPU driver crash. I also have a second monitor connected which is a 1440p 60Hz non-G-Sync one. Unlike the PG279QM, during the freeze, this monitor will retain its brightness even if it's turned off/on and/or replugged, as well as whatever image it was displaying before the freeze. This monitor will not lose signal no matter what. Nevertheless, it also stays frozen. I've used various Nvidia drivers, currently using the latest ones along with Windows 10 64-bit fully updated. If this is somehow a driver issue, it has not been looked into by Nvidia in the past 5 GPU drivers now. This bizarre freeze happens exclusively with G-Sync on and always with a game running. Especially if the game dips to 30 FPS (e.g. cutscenes, pause menus capped by the developers etc.). There has never been a crash with G-Sync off. The G-Sync freeze has almost always happened when a game was either paused or going through a loading screen at a capped 30 FPS. I've run many troubleshooting tests. The PC always runs cool even under 100% load for extended periods of time and passes all tests without errors. Unfortunately, this phenomenon is completely random and therefore impossible to recreate and troubleshoot. It could crash within an hour or go without a crash for days. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening? The monitor is brand new and appears to be working flawlessly. I also ran extensive stress tests on my PC to ensure the GPU isn't failing and got no issues. Is this perhaps a problem with Windows 10? I have not tried Windows 11 with G-Sync in games yet. After looking around online I also found the possibility that perhaps my PSU is failing. I had a 1080p 60Hz monitor before the PG279QM so it's possible that my PSU can't keep up with the massive specs upgrade. Any insight is welcome. Thank you for your time.

Ok, so I'm posting about this issue I've been having with my pc in hopes of someone pointing me in the right direction. After turning on my pc, it runs fine for like 10 minutes and then gpu usage and psu power (W) go down and the games start getting -50fps and stuttering. I've also noticed that at the same time this happens, CPU1 goes to 100% and never comes back down (this is why I have to restart the pc after the problem occurs to restart the cycle). After it happens it stays like this until I turn the pc off and on again. I've tried so many nvcp settings, messed with bios settings, power management settings and cleaned all the dust off the pc but nothing seems to work. My temps are fine, with the gpu hitting a max of 74C when it works fine for longer times and a max of 65C when the stutters start to occur (temp then goes down due to low usage). I have a 1080ti with fresh new drivers installed on it and an i7 8700k that is aio cooled and reaches a max of 62-66C in games. This happens in all games.

Hi my strix 1080ti started artifacting. Tried using old drivers, reinstalling bios and cleaning it. Any solutions?

Ok people so i got a question for experienced users I traded my gpu because of compatibility issues with my mobo For a 1080ti Zotac amp extreme core its a rather nice looking gpu and solid cool BUT we have a problem it goes trough Superposition And furmark at highest settings but in Unigine heaven it shows artifacts and crashes and it crashed AC valhalla benchmark twice so yeah. i guess this card maybe handles its "Turbo mega ultra clock" very bad and i could use someones help to safely downclock it and set up voltages power limits etc... so i can be sure if it is going dead slowly or its just unstable at those clocks i never found any other Bios for it from zotac it has only one version for this card and thats it. So fellas if you could help me out tune it a bit and see is it just dying or its unstable at the current clock settings Gpu runs all the work on the pc fine (browsing,videos and stuff) but games and benchmarks as i see push it to break point Thanks in advance to all of you

Specs are : i7 8700 Z390-h strix 360MM FLOE RiiNG TT PREMIUM Thermaltake GTX 1080ti MSI 16GB DDR4 2666MHZ I don't know why the temps are that high.

Hello, I have ordered a NZXT g12 GPU AIO bracket and I plan on using my old Deepcool L240 V2 AIO on it. I have compared some pictures online of the L240V2 mount and the mounts of different NZXT AIOs which are compatible with the G12. The mounts of Deepcool L240V2 and NZXT Kraken AIOs do seem similar, however I am not sure if it will be compatible or not. Has anyone tried it? Please advice. Thanks.

Hi guys.My gpu stopped working when i oc it.even with 5 mhz I have an evga gtx 1080ti ftw3.Like a year ago i managed to oc it 25+ core 100 voltage and +745 memory.Now if i oc it even a bit it crashes when it reaches between 70-75 degrees.I tried both bioses,the gpu was cleaned still problem persists. I first started having this problem after i put my pc to curier when i changed apartments in march i think.since then the oc doesnt work anymore. Any ideas?I have the latest driver.I ddu it like 3 mo ago. I mostly uses heaven benchmark to test my gpus.But it crashes in games too.Horizon Zero Dawn or Ac Odyssey.I know the gpu is oc from factory.So i guess i will it as it is Ideas? the core sits between 1950-1976.before was like 2025-2000.but the memory was huge for 12.5 gbps

Hi everyone, I've a Gigabyte gtx 1080ti 11g OCI bought second handed, the card is around 2 years old at the moment and I'm playing at 1440p 144hz which makes the card get to 90 to 100% usage very often (on factory overclock) so the Temps get to target (max 84c) and the fan speed gets to 90% (on custom curve). Question is, should I replace the thermal paste? I read a review in which the card is supposed to be between 37c idle and 77c max temp

I'm going to buy this card soon which the seller claims to be an RMA piece. Usually these high end cards sell for a ridiculously high price where I live. I'm being offered ~USD420 (Rs. 30000) for this. Seems like a good deal to me since it costs way less than the usual price, RMA piece and a 1yr warranty. My question is, what should I look for to ensure that I'm getting what's being advertised? By the way, it is a sealed pack. Thanks!

I've had my GTX 1080ti EVGA Hybrid FTW3 working fine for a few years. All of a sudden, it won't display any output, nor is it an option under device manager. Not sure if its due to a windows update but I have tried the following with no luck. I can only use my IGPU. Setup: Windows 10 Pro 64bit, Version 20H2, Build 19042.330 Intel Core i7-8700k CPU 32GB Gskill Tridents EVGA 850 G3 PSU 1. Uninstall Nvidia drivers with DDU (This worked once, but after another boot had same problems) 2. Replug PCI and Power cables to the GPU 3. Disable IGPU setting in BIOS and set to PEG, This always resets back to AUTO 4. Can't install latest Nvidia drivers from site as it says windows version is not compatible. Geforce experience says no Nvidia GPU detected/ 5. Updated to the latest ASUS Bios Any help would be highly appreciated. Thanks

Hello, all! So I have a problem. I have a friend of mine who gave me his EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW 3 icx edition free of charge (yes, very cool of him). My only problem is he had disassembled the stock cooler and replaced it with a water block and different backplate. I am attempting to reassemble the original stock cooler, since I dont use watercooling in my PC. But I appear to be missing some screws. I know for sure I am missing the spring loaded screws for the heat sink proper. But im sure im missing the original screws for the backplate and everything else as well. Do you guys know if there is anywhere I can buy another set of screws for the card? Or is there anywhere I could send it in to be reassembled? I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question. I just recently found out I am going to be a first time father, and I'm so excited. I wont be able to afford new components for my rig for a while I would assume. So this was my attempt at futureproofing myself for at least a few years. Thank you in advance for any advice or feedback. Best wishes!

For past 5 -6 months i have not been able to do much on my system at most i can play low spec games like league of legends, halo reach, overwatch etc. I am not able to play newer games higher spec games i get too frame skipping/stuttering in games and is unplayable in between the frame skipping/stuttering the is mostly smooth and this will happen about 70 - 80% of gameplay. my system is almost 2 years old was sent to get fixed from a blue screen 3 months ago and was returned to me in the current state, i have been slow with getting it looked at and with current covid 19 issues i am current unable to do so. My AIO pump revs up loudly whenever running games. here is a list of fixes i have already tried/looked into. Updating any all drivers, windows. Resetting windows Enabled/Disabled xmp (dont think its ram anyway) , changed ram slots added extra case positioned near cpu, all parts cleaned of dust enough space on both ssd and hdd virus scan/removed suspicious programs lowered all graphic settings in games, changed nvidia control panel settings for performance. My build . CPU: Intel i-7 8700 3.20GHz . Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z370-A . RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32gb ddr4 . GPU: Inno 3D Geforce GTX 1080Ti 11gb . PSU: Thermaltake 850w . AIO: Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID 240

hi, i have a gigabyte aorus 1080 ti extreme card with 2 8 pin power slots. the gpu power cable the coolermaster v1000 came with has 2 x 6+2 pins which aesthetically does not look pleasing after connecting it. could i just connect 2 8 pins cable labeled CPU from the PSU?? or will it fry my GPU doing so. If not where can i buy new gpu cables from?

Hi, why is the GTX 1080Ti which has basically the same specs as an RTX 2080Ti Fail at Ray-Tracing? I know that the Different GPU Architecture plays a Roll in Preformance over all. GTX 1080Ti - Pascal RTX 2080Ti - Turring

UPDATE: I have decided against buying a new 2080 Super. I am scouting around for a used 1080 Ti and hoping that I manage to snag the €330 Strix Gaming OC that I happened to find. I'm planning to build a PC with a custom CPU+GPU loop over the next few months: While I can afford a 2080 S, I'm wondering if a 1080 Ti would be "good enough" for my needs. I don't foresee myself needing / using any ray tracing applications (unless those cores have any performance benefits in VR games). I believe that with my current (albeit laptop-restricted) usage patterns, I'm not sure how far I'll be able to push a decent GPU. I've literally never used anything more powerful than a GTX 965M (the chip my current MSI GE62-2QE has) so I have no idea what to expect. Used 1080 Ti-s range between €450 (Gigabyte Aorus) and €750 (Asus ROG Strix) out here while the cheapest new 2080 S costs €740 (Asus Dual Evo OC). I can ask a colleague to ferry a 2080S from USA to save about €100 or so (I don't know where to look for second hand 1080 Ti-s in USA). Opinions? Use case:

Hi guys, TL;DR: Recently bought a lightly used 1080ti. Put it in my pc after doing a clean driver install only to have it CTD in games at stock settings. Lowering the power limit to ~85% seems to make it far more stable in games however it still behaves a bit odd (occasionally hangs for a frame or 2). Its been a couple of years since I posted here, mostly because my PC build had stayed pretty much the same from when I built it in 2013 and I didn't have many issues with it. That was till last summer when I replaced the 3rd gen i7 with a ryzen 2700 and all the motherboard and ram upgrades that went with it. I didn't have the money for the gpu upgrade then but I finally got around to it last week when I bought a used 1080ti from a guy that bought it in 2018 for some gaming and video rendering. He showed me it playing games on his PC (Wolfenstien Young blood, and the gpuz render test) and it ran without any problems or hiccups, other than some pretty noticeable coilwhine. I used DDU to wipe the drivers and did a clean install after putting in the card and it seemed perfectly fine at the desktop and I was also able to enable the variable refresh feature of my freesync monitor which my old card could not due to not having the required display port version. However when I got around to playing some games, they all crashed to the desktop or occasionally locked the PC up shortly after starting the game. I found that lowering the power limit to 85% makes it more stable however this means it only goes to like 1600mhz as opposed to the 1900+ it would if everything was left at default. Could it be my psu? its only 650W but its a gold rated unit (corsair RM650i) so I would expect it to be able to handle a single card. My old 780ti, if gpuz is to be believed drew around 200W in typical gaming, however the 1080ti goes over 250w at stock settings so maybe this increase is causing the issue, and lowering the power limit is getting it back to 780ti levels. I would think that not enough power from the psu would cause hard resets rather than just the games crashing tho... The previous owner of the card has responded to my recent messages and said that he had registered the card on EVGA's site and since he didn't buy the card that long ago the option of a RMA could still exist. Any input would be welcomed.

My Gtx 1080ti Aorus (not extreme edition) was hitting 87c while gaming. It usually only hit 74c. The card is not OC, room temps were 24c and the fan speed is set to 70%. To my conclusion it had to be thermal paste issues and so upon opening up the gpu a component fell off the pcb board. I don't know what that piece is called but is there any way to put it back on???

So I feel like having only one of these and wanting to sell one of them. Both have their benefits and disadvantages (see specs below), but I'm having a hard time figuring out which one to keep. My main criteria is which one is more future-proof but they both seem competent. What's everyone's thoughts? Laptop specs (ASUS ROG Scar II GL504GV): -144Hz 1080p screen -RTX 2060 -32GB DDR4 2666MHz -Intel Core i7 8750H -M.2 512GB SSD Desktop specs: -60Hz 4K display (it stays/goes with the desktop) -MSi GTX 1080 Ti -32GB DDR4 2400MHz -Intel Core i7 6850K -MSi X99A GODLIKE Gaming Carbon -Intel 750 400GB PCI-E SSD

So I found this deal for a pretty sick 1080Ti card (Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti) for around $450, what I'm concerned about is that my pc currently has an i5 4590, which may bottleneck a powerful GPU as the 1080Ti, but the thing is can I at least hit 60FPS at 1080p with this card or will that be an issue as well?

Hey folks, I was playing a video game (Monster Hunter World, played it for the past few days) when suddenly both monitors went black. There was still sound. Rebooted my PC, still black screens even during BIOS. But I could still log into my windows account and listen to Spotify, but with no display. GPU fans are not spinning. PC does not detect the GPU (as far as i can tell, maybe i overlooked smth) Been using this PC for 1.5 years with no issues. (Windows 10 Home, Version 1809) GPU: Nvidia Geforce GTX 1080 Ti Mobo: Asus Prime Z370-P PSU: Sharkoon WPM600 bronze CPU: Intel core i7-8700k 3.70GHz 16 GB RAM First Monitor 4k 60Hz, second monitor 1080p 60Hz - both Samsung Currently using the on board graphic. I am inexperienced at troubleshooting, so if I forgot some information or any steps please let me know. I would appreciate any help! -Xtremremix Edit: Second PCI slot doesn't have enough space. Images: are those pins(right word?) normal?

Dear LTT comunity. First my PSU died, changed to another platinum AXi 860 corsair, previously NZXT fractal NEWTON r3. My GPU started to crash more ofter (was not crashing at all from the box), nowadays, the GPU crashes when on base clock. I have to keep it undreclocked core -60, memory -140 to prevent from crashing. Still thinking what to do to prevent RMA.

PSU : Corsair VS450 I checked on pcpartpicker and listed all my specs down. It said that my system requires 410W to work but my psu is only 450W. Can my system still run or do I need to buy a new psu with more watts?