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Found 25 results

  1. Hello, I need help in buying a keyboard. Which one of the three should I chose? One of them has Outemu red switches and also full layout but isn't hot-swappable: Hator Rockfall - gaming keyboard | Hator official website official website. One of them has Gateron clear swithes and its bluetooth, TKL, USB-C connection, multimedia keys and it's hot-swappable: Skyfall TKL - Hator official website The last one has Kailh black optical switches and its TKL and it's hot-swappable: Rockfall EVO TKL - Hator official website PS: The outemu red is the cheapest, the kailh one is a little more expensive and the gateron one is the most expensive.
  2. Hello everyone, I started this new topic since I gave back my G910 Logitech with romer G switches and a left set of functional keys (right after TAB, Caplock etc,), and started looking around for new options. For now I stick with my Logitech K120 (<10€) office keyboard that is more than enough for now and serves the purpose of reserve, so I have time to choose the next main keyboard. My current setup My personal laptop on the right, an old glorious MSI GE60, sitting with its bottom opened on a Cooler Master Notepal XL My working laptop on the left, a Thinkpad E480 sitting on a Cooler Master Notpeal 3, An AOC 24'' an AIMOS SWITCH HDMI KVM so that I can link main screen, mouse and keyboard on the "active" computer with a switch. My usual activity Coding: on a daily base I am (or try to be) an IT consultant: sometimes I code (python or C#), sometimes I use SQL so having stuff that allow you to do quick selections (like Ctrl+End) is handy, and I like having F5 and F10 separate from numeric keys Studying: I usually had to use R, Python and Latex so I was considering adopting left lateral keys for macros Typing I seldom use the right numeric keyboard to type special characters like "«" or "»" (ALT+0171/0187), "~" (ALT+196). I never could do this with the top line of numbers above the QWERTY zone. Gaming (sadly, not so much lately and not competitive) I don't have a powerful pc (maybe I'll be able to take a Lenovo Legion 5 Pro this year), but I don't have much time for games, so I seldom play at Warframe, Hades or MtG arena right now, Again I used the left lateral keys (G1, G2... G) for customized commands. Media control I liked to have volume control right on the keyboard, but I survived before My need is then for a keyboard that is robust, that allows to code, study and game, that can be linked to the switch so I can use it both from personal and work computer. Note: I also have the Logitech K780, that allows to switch between three BlueTooth devices, but I cannot connect it to my two pc at the same time (switching from one to another). My first initial look was towards the G915, since it's wireless, good looking, still has addressable RGB, and more modest lateral frame (I don't have much space) than the G910 used to have. Given the price though, I started considering smaller form factors: there's the option of G915 of the TKL, but I'd lose the left side buttons. I started looking at other keyboards, like the Glorious GMMK, YUNZII, KEYCHRON, VERMILO etc. Aside from the price (in certain cases it's too high, like the GMMK) I noticed that when you go for smaller sizes, there's almost no chance to have left side set of custom buttons. My questions I'd like to know: is there a layout like a 75% keyboard like this but with a left set of buttons like the G910? If not, what would you suggest to do? Are there "budget" solutions for left side numerical keypads that I can customize?
  3. which one should I buy? Keychron C1 or Corsair K68? What's the difference? or should I buy Keychron K4 (don't want to but exception) PS:K2V2 seems stock out everywhere
  4. Clicky Switch Round-Up Click Clack THOCK! Intro: The base idea of testing out a bunch of clicky switches is to expand my switch repertoire. Clickys are not my favorite, as I do not particularly like the excessive click noise. I find the click sound already had from a tactile switch is satisfying enough, and for the most part all the clickys I have tried are linears that require very little actuation force, which is already my least favorite switch. This all said there is variation, and trying something different is fun and I can learn along the way! For this test I will compare 4 different clicky switches, naturally crowing my favorite, and giving my thoughts as I conclude my comparison. Test Material: For this test I will be using my KDB67Lite R1 (now in R2), a budget 65% layout with 5-pin hot-swap sockets, ABS case with a polycarbonate back plate, and I have lubed the stabs with TriboSys 3204. The 4 different Clickys I have gone with are: Gateron Blue - MX Blue Clones, this is the standard Clicky switch that most think of in terms of Clickys, 55g Operating | 60g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 / switch KBDFans Gateron Green - MX Green Clones, these offer a heavy actuation force with a tactile feel, 65g Operating | 75g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 \ switch KBDFans Kailh Box White - Likely one of the most popular Clicky switches, sometimes referred to as a Box Blue as it features similar characteristics to the Blue, but with a Box stem, 50g Operating | 55g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.38 \ switch KBDFans Kailh Box Thick Jade - Box Jades, or Box Thick Clicks, feature the same spring as the Box White, but with a thicker clickbar, creating a distinguished tactile feel, 50g Operating | 60g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.42 \ switch KBDFans Sound Comparison: This is a sound comparison of the switches held in a acrylic case switch tester with blank caps, none of the switches will be lubed for any of the completed tests. Gateron Blue: MX Blue Switch Test.mp4 Gateron Green: MX Green Switch Test.mp4 Kailh Box White: Box White Switch Test.mp4 Kailh Box Thick Jade: Box Jade Switch Test.mp4 * Amplified audio by 28db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the switch) Type Test: Gateron Blue: MX Blue Type Test.mp4 Gateron Green: MX Green Type Test.mp4 Kailh Box White: Box White Type Test.mp4 Kailh Box Thick Jade: Box Jade Type Test.mp4 * Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard) Quick Thoughts on the KBD67Lite: Pleasantly surprised in the value of this board. It offers a lot of features for the price, namely per-key RGB and hot-swap sockets in a 65% layout, however the main draw back would be the construction. While implemented well for an ABS case you do not get the rigidity and sturdiness of a more solid material (aluminum, steel, even wood, etc), on top of that I personally do not like polycarbonate switch plates and combined with the ABS case it gives a mushy feel that I am not a particularly huge fan of. But this also comes with the objective views of a user who prefers an aluminum case with a brass plate, so take this with a medium-sized grain of salt. For many buyers of the KBD67Lite I expect this to be their first custom mech, and for that buyer I can strongly recommend this. It is a great entry board that gets you in the market with good features and they did some things very well. I like the gasket mount design and the case foam also greatly helps overall feel. The fully QMK supported PCB is a welcome touch and the 5-pin Kailh hot-swap sockets is a must in a 2021 entry board, especially for 1st time buyers, and this is all done properly. Now I will note that R2 is now in production and brings in a wireless version as well as wired, but you lose per-key RGB for the wireless board, and it no longer comes pre-assembled, which for many is likely not an issue, but for a few buyers it could be a deal breaker. All of this for $109usd (r1) is a great deal, and while R2 is coming in at $135, I still see this an attractive option for many buyers. My one some-what significant complaint is that many of the 5-pin switches are not able to fully click into place, or a lot of force is required, so they can either fall out (not that easily though) or come out when the keycap is removed. When I contacted KBDFans they did not elaborate much other than this could be a slight variance within manufacturing and that the updated Injection molding plate in R2 vs the CNC plate in R1 should address the issue. I am not sure if this is a one off or if this is somewhat wide spread, but I could not find similar complaints . At least this is not an issue with 3-pin switches and it my opinion this has something to do with the PCB and not the plate, but only time will tell. Full review of the KBD67Lite coming soon! Conclusion: Gateron Blue - Of the 4 this comes in dead last, the 'click' is loud enough that for those who like the sound it will suffice, however the light weight actuation and feel is not of my preference. They have a scratchy feel on keystroke and when typing slower the sound of the metal leaf is not pleasant, it sounds twangy and this feels like I am scraping the bottom of the barrel. Switch preference is all about what a user likes but I don't see how this would be a favorite of anyone's, if you like clickys the next on the list is far better, it has a similar actuation weight, but improves on the main drawbacks of the MX /Gat Blue. Kailh Box White - Between this and the Gat Green it was a very close call but the Box White is 3rd on my list, although objectively it is the second best switch here (will elaborate). This is everything a novel clicky switch should be, it gives off the right 'click' sound and has a similar feel to the Gat Blue however all the drawbacks of the scratchy keystroke feel and twangy sound from the leaf are not present. You get the stability of a box switch and this eliminates keycap 'wobble' making this a nice linear clicky typing experience, if that is your thing. Gateron Green - As mentioned, I have some elaborating to do. The Kailh Box White is objectively the better switch, but I prefer a heavier switch, and the MX / Gat Green is just that, a heavy clicky switch with a somewhat pronounced bump in the keystroke similar to a tactile (similar to a Kailh Pro Purple, the tactile bump is not very distinguished, but it is there). And this is why my bias places it ahead of the Box White, I prefer a heavier tactile switch. Now on to the sound, it has a similar profile to the Gat Blue but it does not sound or feel as scratchy, although the scratchy feel is still somewhat present. If you like a heavier clicky switch this is a great option, although our final candidate takes the cherry. Kailh Box Thick Jade - Lets take what's good about the Box White, and the Gat Green. Okay so no scratchy feel or sound, check. A nice loud pronounced 'clack', check. Stability of a box switch, check. A heavier switch with more actuation required, check. And lastly, a nice tactile bump, check-mate! This is my number one choice of the 4 tested, it is the best feeling for typing, with a very distinguished tactile bump about half-way through the keystroke, and with more actuation required vs the Box White, this nails it for me. Again I do not prefer Clicky switches over Tactile or Linear, but in terms of type feel this is without a question my number one choice of the 4 tested. To summarize, I can categorize this switch test into two easy recommendations, if you like clicky switches and prefer a linear switch, get the Box White, if you prefer tactile, get the Box Thick Jade. I will admit that there are other Box clicky switches, but these two are extremely popular for a reason.
  5. KBDfans teamed up with MITO and Gateron to create quite eccentric switches, known as the MITO Laser switches, with the design of the switches derived from MITO's Laser keycaps, which have the same purple, pink, and blue visual. Honestly, I had picked some of these up because of their color, otherwise, I would have bought regular Gateron Yellows and called it a day, as the MITO Laser switches are near-enough identical to the Gateron Yellows, but with a facelift, and different weight options. The MITO Laser switches come in Cyan or Pink flavours, which are 60g and 70g weights respectively. I opted to buy both, but for the purposes of review and usage, I went with the Cyan 60g switches as I prefer lighter actuation, I have very delicate fingers so anything heavier than 70g tends to tire my little fingers out quicker than most. Opening up the switch, it looks like any other standard linear switch on the market, with a standard two-piece bottom and top housing, a 60g gold spring, and an MX-style stem with linear legs. This again is reminiscent of the Gateron Yellow, the switch that the MITO Laser has essentially been cloned from. Nothing very special. It's smooth like any other linear, and the 60g weight is a great choice for someone like me. The materials used specifically for the housings feel particularly rough compared to a milky-topped Gateron Yellow, I don't know if that's because of the coating involved to get that purple, but the premium I paid to get these switches over Gateron Yellows is noticeably made more apparent by the coating being a bit rougher. In this instance, I would definitely prefer milky-topped Yellows. Milky-topped Yellows also produce a much deeper, thockier sound than these MITO Laser switches, which by comparison, sounds a lot more higher-pitched, at least when I lubed my 60g Cyan MITO Laser switches with Tribosys 3204. The keen follower might have remembered that I reviewed the Gateron Yellows before, which were the milky-topped version: In a nutshell, and to prevent this talking head style review from dragging on more than anything, the TL:DR is that the MITO Laser switches are nothing particularly special, apart from the color. They are nearly identical to the Gateron Yellows, but feature two weights at 60g & 70g, and come in a purple housing, otherwise, there is nothing to differentiate the technically three different switches which were discussed today. If purple and blue/pink is your thing, and you must have the color, and you like either 60g or 70g weights, the MITO Laser switches fit a small niche of users who are after a different aesthetic from the typical Gateron Yellows for sale on the market.
  6. The Gateron Yellow is a linear switch designed and manufactured by Gateron, to along with their line-up of linear switches such as the Gateron Red and Gateron Black. The Gateron Yellow is a linear switch with distinct similarities to the Gateron Red, with a slightly heavier spring at 50g actuation versus the Red's actuation at 45g. In this sense, the Gateron Yellow is essentially a slightly heavier Gateron Red, and in my experience, that holds true. Looking at the stem, it's about as standard as a linear MX stem goes, with the iconic MX top piece, and the smooth legs on the front of the stem. In Gateron's case, the material of the stem is extremely smooth, similar to their Gateron Red and Gateron Ink Black stems in particular. The stem is in a bumblebee yellow, and is quite literally the same as the Gateron Red's stem, just with a different color. The Gateron Yellow takes lubing well, I lubed Gateron Yellows with Tribosys 3204 and it improved smoothness a lot, as well as increased the 'thock' sound signature. This is again similar to the characteristics to the Gateron Red, and I can't convey just how similar this switch is to a Gateron Red. In essence, the Gateron Yellow is a Gateron Red with a heavier spring, it shares the same housing characteristics as the Gateron Red, whilst also inheriting the lubing capabilities of other Gateron linear switches. I have previously reviewed the MX Red, and used a Gateron Red as the example there, you can read the review here.
  7. The MX Brown is the last of the Cherry originals, its siblings being the MX Blue and MX Red, a clicky and a linear switch respectively. The MX Brown is the tactile switch that completes the trifecta of Cherry's flagship switch line. I personally prefer linear for its smooth actuation, and tactile for its actuation indication, and unfortunately the MX Brown isn't tactile at all. It's almost a linear. I describe it as a Red with a food baby. The bump is so minimal, yet it is just enough to let you know that you've gone past the actuation point. Taking a look at the stem, the legs are where the tactility is created. The small, tiny little dip in the legs that even my phone - that I used to take a photo of this stem - can barely detail it. While this particular stem that I have extracted from a Gateron Brown is particularly smooth, I imagine the likes of Cherry's Brown stems share the same characteristics. Next up is the force curve of the MX Brown. The bump's peak force is around 55g with the actuation point at around 45g, and around 0.75mm away from the actuation bump. That's a large gap in delay between the bump and the actuation. While this wouldn't be noticeable in real world usage, I assume for those whom don't often bottom out will have to get used to the late actuation. I'd be inclined to think I confirmed a keystroke once I experienced the tactile bump. The MX Brown is a tactile switch which also has the softest tactile bump of any tactile switch I have used. ZealPC's 62g Zealios being the most tactile switch I have ever used, with the sharpest, most pronounced, most detailed tactile bump I have ever used, and also with the bump being directly at the top of the keypress with no pretravel. You could read my Zealios review here: Another notable tactile switch I have used is the YOK Purple Trash Panda, which uses the same concept as the Zealios V2, sharing the same characteristics with the tactile bump being at the top of the keypress. Despite the Purple Panda being scratchier, I still prefer it due to the sharper tactility. You can read my YOK Purple Trash Panda review here: While the MX Brown is Cherry's flagship tactile, I don't feel like it deserves the moniker. It's barely tactile. While it does have a slight bump that allows the user to indicate when they have pressed a key, it's far from the standard of tactility that I expect from a tactile switch.
  8. The MX Blue is a part of the iconic trifecta of original Cherry MX switches next to its siblings the Red and Brown, as well as their distant relatives, the Clear and Black. The MX Blue is the flagship clicky switch manufactured by Cherry and cloned by the likes of Gateron, Kailh, and Outemu, but what they all have in common is the same mechanism, the click jacket, to generate their tinny, wimpy, dissatisfactory click. The main draw towards opting for a clicky switch such as the MX Blue is the click jacket mechanism, this two-part stem made up of the main MX-style stem (in blue) and the plastic jacket (in transluscent white) to make up the switch. In theory, this is actually a genius design, but falls short as the two-part design creates hysteresis, delaying upstroke and for some people, slowing down their typing speed and/or gaming reflexes, as the delayed upstroke will be costly to those who are in need of fast keystrokes. Not to mention the click being tinny, short-lived, and weak, this switch fails to satisfy me when other excellent clicky switches like the Kailh Box Jade with its gorgeous-sounding click bar exist. As a fan of linear switches, this switch is extremely disorienting to use, the hysteresis delaying the upstroke as well as the jacket interrupting the downpress is just not fun to use. Taking a look at the force graph of the MX Blue, we can see where the pressure is applied and where the click is exerted, as well as the reset and hysteresis evident on the upstroke. The click is around 60g with the operation at around 50g, so this is a fairly medium switch compared to the other switches such as Reds and Blacks. The MX Blue is one of the most famous switches in the mechanical keyboard scene, and I would actually bet that most people would refer to this switch if they were asked what a mechanical keyboard is. The signature click of the MX Blue is what gives clicky switches a bad time, and that is sincerely disappointing as the MX Blue is easily the worst-sounding switch as well as the worst switch to use in general, with its inconsistent actuation and evident delay on the upstroke. Lube does not help the Blue either, as even lubing only the sliders will suppress the click and take away the switch's only redeeming quality. I would not recommend this switch for anybody as it's an all-around terrible switch, instead, if one is looking for a Kailh Box Jade, I definitely recommend the Kailh Box Jade, which I have reviewed previously, and can read here.
  9. The MX Red is one of the most iconic switches thanks to Cherry, the German mechanical keyboards and switches manufacturer famous (or infamous depending on how you look at it) for their MX Red, MX Brown, and MX Blue switches, which are linear, tactile, and clicky switches respectively. Today we'll be taking a look at the MX Red, this particular model specifically from Gateron, a manufacturer of switches whom have cloned Cherry's MX Red design and made their own edition, coined the Gateron Red. The MX Red is a linear switch as mentioned before which means there is no interruption in the actuation, meaning the keyswitch goes straight down when you press on it. Thanks to WASDkeyboards for providing the force curve chart below, we can see the actuation force of the Red is around 45g, and bottoms out at around 65g. This is a particularly light switch that is catered towards gamers who require quick actuation, so a 45g actuation force 2mm down on the switch is preferable for competitive gaming scenarios. Opening up my specific Gateron Red switch, the material is extremely smooth and the feel of the switch can attest to that. The stem legs are smooth which allow the leaf to cleanly slide along the stem legs. However for my tastes, I find using the Reds as stock to be scratchy, this is hard to explain for those who have not used lubed switches. My favorite analogy is rubbing your arm dry versus rubbing your arm with lotion applied. While the Reds are subjectively smooth when stock, the smoothness is accentuated greatly when they are lubed. I lubed my Reds with Tribosys 3204 and they both sound and feel extremely smooth, greatly improving upon the stock scratchiness. I would personally even rate the smoothness when lubed above something like a NovelKeys Cream. Personally, I am only comfortable using Reds lubed, as I find using them stock to be a bit too scratchy for my tastes, but at stock, they are bearable. They are not the smoothest linear I have ever used but they are also not the worst, although making a non-smooth is a difficult bar to clear. As a mainstream switch and probably the most well-known linear on the market, the Red is a fantastic choice for those who are after a smooth and swift typing experience. While they are a touch too light for me to use, I do enjoy the smoothness and the lightness is rather inviting when playing games that require that quick actuation. For people that want something heavier, I recommend the Yellow or Black switches, as those are a bit heavier than the Red whilst still retaining the smoothness of the Red. Otherwise, the Red is a great switch choice.
  10. The Gateron Ink Black is essentially a Gateron Black with a transparent, smoky housing and a black stem, and is highly regarded as one of, if not the most smooth MX-style switch on the market, rivaling that of Zeal's Tealios V2, and the Vintage Black. The Ink Black is a fairly medium-weighted switch, requiring 60g of force to actuate and 70g of force to completely bottom out. My personal preferred weight for linear switches is anywhere between 62g to 67g so the 60g of actuation force is very welcome. I personally like to use my linear switches lubed, but the Gateron Ink Black is one of those switches that doesn't require that treatment to be a smooth switch. It's a fantastic switch at stock, and is probably one of three switches that I'd consider using stock, next to the Tealios V2 and the NovelKeys Cream. The Gateron Ink Black is super smooth even without lube. With that being said, I still lubed my Gateron Ink Blacks with Tribosys 3204 as I felt that it didn't require thick lube like Krytox 205g0, and it made it even smoother. I did heavily lube my switch, but it did not interfere with the travel, actuation, upstroke, return, or keypress of the switch in any way, and I prefer heavily lubing my linears as it ensures 100% smoothness. Again, not that the Ink Black needed that in the first place, regardless. In my time scouting the switch market, I can find Ink Blacks for around $0.75-$0.80 a switch, which is fairly expensive considering the other offerings on the market, such as regular Gaterons, which can retail for as low as $0.30 a switch. However, I am confident that expending a bit more for the Ink Blacks will work in everybody who is considering a linear switch's favor, as the smoothness - once again, even at stock and unlubed - is rivalled only by the most elite switches such as the Tealios V2 and the Vintage Black - and those go for $1+ per switch each for what I can perceive having using Tealios V2 extensively as minimal improvement. In fact, since using the Ink Blacks, they've become my top 2 linear switch next to the Tealios who edges it out as a close winner. The Ink Black is smooth in every regard and the spring is really high quality. The spring feels robust and full which gives the Ink Black an ultra satisfying keypress travel. The Tealios on the other hand has a fairly hollow spring which is susceptible to pinging. If you're in the market for one of, if not the smoothest, linear, MX-style switch on the market for under $1 per switch, you cannot go wrong with the Ink Black. Ultra smooth stem, silky smooth housing, satisfying spring sturdiness, and excellent lubing capability, making it a solid linear switch.
  11. Hi. I'm looking to build a custom keyboard. I'm a linear guy. I hate clicky switches and i've never tried tactiles. So i can't say anything about them. Maybe i'll try 'em someday. So i saw a few YT videos on Inks and Milkies compared to NovelKey Creams. And actually i liked the sound of Inks more than Creams. Can't say anything about the feel obviously but i think since i've been using Cherry MX Blacks for 4+ years i'll be satisfied with linear Gaterons as well. So i'm between Milkies and Inks. What are your thoughts?
  12. hi guys, i have beem looking for a 65% mechanical keyboard and i come to these keyboards. 1. Magicforce 68 (Cherry MX) 2. TADA68 (Gateron) would like to ask which one u guys think is better to get ? they are both almost same price in my place, around 60 USD
  13. Lately more and more MKB start using Gateron even till the point some doesn't have the choice of Cherry MX , like Glorious MKB. They are either Kailh or Gateron. As I know more and more people starting to favor Gateron because it's cheaper for one. Secondly people like then because how it " feels " better than Cherry MX. But in reality, I've seen some really negative feedbacks from Gateron as well. As how they aren't equally created, some keys may make a different sound or even sounded noisy over a other. The Stems are lot cheaper, than Cherry MX, it wobbles. Durability isn't so good either I heard. Matter of fact I remember seeing Varmilo had Gateron switches, if you do pick Gateron warranty is not provided. But all these are experience of someone mentioned on the internet it could be entirely false or a minor case only happened to few unlucky people ? I would like to hear the opinion of any long term users. What's your experience like ? I'm most worry is the quality of the switches not how it " feels ".
  14. Hi! I just would like to know which key switch is better quality, like smoothness and wobbliness: Gateron reds or Kailh Pro burgundys. I know they are both great, I would just like to know which one is probably better without modding. Thank you!
  15. Introduction: Today I have tested 5 versions of the popular Black lines of Kailh, Gateron and Cherry. I'll be giving out up to 5 points per switch, giving 5 to the best, 1 to the worst on each part. This is all based off opinion, and your preference may vary on some parts. Gateron Black: Key stability: 3/5 RGB passthrough: 2/5 Lubing: 3/5 Sound: 2/5 Smoothness: 3/5 Weight: 5/5 Value: 5/5 To start with the cheapest of the line: Gateron black. They can be found for as low as 20 cents/switch and are a great step-in point if you want something that feels like a heavier red. Their key stability is decent, RGB passthrough unfortunately really not good, for this you should get an RGB version. Their smoothness is actually quite decent for the price, especially after lubing i did enjoy the quick session of gaming i did with it. with their lower travel and relatively light weight compared to others I'd sure recommend it. Gallary: Gateron Milk Black: Key stability: 4/5 RGB passthrough: 3/5 Lubing: 4/5 Sound: 4/5 Smoothness: 2/5 Weight: 4/5 value 4/5 Then a slightly different, but similar switch. Gateron's Milk black has a top housing that's white rather than transparent, giving it a bit of a special look. I felt like the key stability on it was a bit better, the RGB passthrough are still wishes to be found, but it's still better than the normal one as well. I felt a bit of sand-like feeling at stock, but a lot of it lost when I lubed it. the sound of it becomes a bit clacky when doing this as well. the smoothness on itself I gave rather low because of its stock performance. the weight is highly enjoyable for the short session I played, though the normal ones felt a little better on this. because they generally cost only a little more than regular blacks (24c/switch), I’m giving them a 4/5 on value. Gallery: Gateron Ink Black: Key stability: 1/5 RGB passthrough: 4/5 Lubing: 5/5 Sound: 5/5 Smoothness: 5/5 Weight: 2/5 value: 2/5 then, the most expensive out of this lineup. the switch is easy to recognize by its smoky black housing, which seems to give a lot of the incredible smoothness to the switch. the key stability looks bad this way, but i felt like it was the worst from the 5 that i tried. the RGB passthrough is a bit dark because of the housing, but does come through decently. lubing it gives it even a little more smoothness, rivalling it with the well-known and personally used Tealios. their weight unfortunately felt a bit heavy for me at bottom out for gaming, but would be very enjoyable if you're purely typing. because of their high price tag of at minimum 0,75 cents/switch, their value is of course not that high rated, but if you're looking for something really smooth and don't want to pay the premium for something like Tealios, this is the option to go for. Gallery: Kailh Box Black: Key stability: 5/5 RGB passthrough: 5/5 Lubing: 2/5 Sound: 3/5 Smoothness: 4/5 Weight: 3/5 value: 3/5 Kailh box black is a bit of a different formfactor, and takes it's name from it's "box" around the switch stem. because of this the key stability is simply unrivalled by the others. their RGB passthrough is also the best out of these switches, as Kailh used a transparent housing on the switch. the lubing is decent, but doesn't feel that needed on it compared to the others. their smoothness is decent, though the feeling between the actuation point and bottom out was for me hard to feel. as they're more expensive than the Gateron milk and regular black, I felt like a 3/5 value would be fair for it. Gallery: Cherry MX Black: Key stability: 2/5 RGB passthrough: 1/5 Lubing: 1/5 Sound: 1/5 Smoothness: 1/5 weight: 1/5 value: 1/5 It almost feels like i just chose these numbers to shit on cherry here... but this really was how I felt about it. the key stability of it is decent, but nothing special compared to Gateron, it's RGB passthrough on this version is about nothing, since the fully black switch blocks the light on my keyboard. the lubing made the already sandpaper-like feel of the switch even worse, which also gives a sound while you’re typing on it. the weight of it felt on the heavy side for me and because I have so many complaints, while this is the second most expensive switch in the line, the 1/5 value makes it a worse one than the most expensive switch in the lineup. Gallery: Verdict: Gateron Black: very cheap (~20c), decent weight for gaming and typing, smooth, worth lubing but recommended to get the RGB version if needed. Gateron Milk Black: cheap (~24c), nice weight for gaming and typing, relatively smooth, but a bit sand-like feel at stock, RGB passthrough not well. Gateron Ink Black: expensive (~75c), but the smoothest black switch out there, very nice clacky sound, RGB passthrough doable, but not ideal. Kailh Box Black: well-priced (~40c), extremely good key stabilization, pretty smooth, not that worthy to lube, RGB passthrough is good. Cherry MX Black: middle ground price (~40c), sandpaper-like feeling, mediocre sound, key stability, lubing makes the sand-like feel even worse, RGB gets completely blocked, so recommended is to get the RGB version.
  16. So i'm planning on building my first keyboard and of course i watched linus' video on it and i want a pcb that I dont need to soder, What i really need help is what is the diffrence between a plate mounted switch and a pcb switch and would like to know which one I should get.
  17. AL1V3

    Which swtch

    So im gonna build a keybaord and im use to using 50cN keyswitchs (cuz i use romerg tactiles) but i want to be in the linear side so i weant on youtube and found some switches, the problem is: which one? there is the gateron blacks, kailh Pro burgundy, gateron yellow,and kailh speed silver. So to anyone that knows any of these switches that are basically the same, which one do you guys recommend? Edit: btw can i remove the plate from the massdrop alt/ctrl cuz i want to band aid mod my pcb
  18. Hello, I want to replace the switches in my Steel Series Apex. What switches can I go with. I would like to go with Novel Jade's. But if it doesn't fit I would like a recommendation on a switch that will fit that is similar to that if possible. Thank you, Jake
  19. Hi, I'm fairly new to the mechanical keyboard scene, and I was just wondering where the best place is to buy a gateron red keyboard (I would like a 65%, but wouldn't mind a 60%). I've already checked out banggood and aliexpress. Thanks in advance
  20. So I'm about to get a new mechanical keyboard and I was wondering which is the best blue switch? I know it's pretty subjective, but what do you guys think? Currently, I have 4 keyboards I'm looking but they all have different switches. (http://a.co/4uNQNlv not sure about what switch the rotary keyboard has.) Also, if you guys have any suggestions for any keyboards for less than $60, it would be very appreciated.
  21. Switch preferences (preferably reply if you've used any of these)? Both listed on Massdrop (Kailh drop active now) for $25, and thinking of upgrading my $40 TKL with blue Outemus. Heard from a lot of people that Gaterons are a lot better, but the 1.1 mm travel distance on the Kailh is very attractive. If you think there's anything else that's worth upgrading (total budget preferably under 40 USD), then I'd be happy to hear it. Options as well as what I'm looking for listed below. Current Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5F6W51/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_NYqIAb8B60P84 Gateron Switch Options (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/gateron-switches): Blacks Blues Browns Clears Greens Reds Yellows Kailh Speed Switch Options (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kaihua-kailh-speed-switches): Copper Silver Bronze Gold What I'm looking for (little more typing than gaming, lots hate blues for gaming, but seem fine to me) (in order of importance): Near silent (Current Outemu blues extremely loud, maybe replace cheap metal top plate too?) Short travel distance (Current Outemu blues ~4 mm) Fast rebound times (Current Outemu blues seem to take forever to rebound, especially shift. (Swap stabilizers?)) Little wobble Sorry that I'm asking so much, but I really want the best I can get for my use. Thanks!
  22. Hello good people of the internet! This is a buildog i'm doing on a homemade 60% mechanical keyboard. I'm doing this build because my current keyboard (BTC 5100C) is starting to fail, and i didn;t want to go out and buy a normal mechanical again. I'd rather just build it myself, so that it is just the way i want it! Also the failing of my current board means that typing this buildlog is literal hell, because sometimes random keys just don't register. Here's the parts list, everything is bought from Aliexpress. Red means planned Yellow means bought Green means delivered at my place Gateron Blue Switches XD60 PCB GH60 Solid wood case with wrist rest LED hotswap plugs LEDs in different colors Cool Jazz Black/Gray Keycaps Cool Jazz CherryMX PCB mounted stabilizers Braided Mini-USB cable So first things first: The Switches arrived! I went with Gateron Blue switches because i wanted to try something clicky this time, and these have a nice tactile bump. The compatibility with CherryMX keycaps is also definitely a plus! I bought this whole bag for about 20 euro's. Definitely worth the 2 week wait before they where delivered So that is it for now. I'm still waiting on the rest of the parts, but according to the site most of them have arrived in my country by now! I'll keep updating this as parts start rolling in!
  23. I was browsing some mechanical keyboards and I stumbled across this mechanical keyboard from Monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=13785&gclid=CMORwYGEvc4CFVdbhgodya0Jwg It appears to have Gateron switches, but does anybody know for sure? I have not been able to find anything on their website. This also appears to be one of the only keyboards that I can find that has Gateron switches, especially for the price!
  24. Hey guys @Slick @LinusSebastian! Just wanted to share my latest mech keyboard Varmilo VA87MR Gateron Red Switches I got this from a Group Buy organized by some guy in a facebook group from my country. Since I got the freedom to choose my own theme(from case color & plate color to key cap color & legends), I decided to go for Linus' color scheme! Not just coz Im a fan of LTT, but coz black(which is actually dark grey) & orange just looks so bad ass! Hope you guys appreciate it!
  25. Anyone know if the internals of a regular Gateron switch can be transplanted into a Gateron SMD switch? Would hate to order a bunch then find that the parts are different to accommodate the cutout for the SMD.
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