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Is this why they stopped mentioning fractal as sponsors?

So I wanna put the thermaltake fans:https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Wqx9TW/thermaltake-riing-plus-14-rgb-tt-premium-edition-5-fan-pack-632-cfm-140mm-fans-cl-f057-pl14sw-a On the this aio cooler:https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NMtWGX/fractal-design-celsius-s36-876-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-fd-wcu-celsius-s36-bk

My aim is to have a really quiet PC for gaming. I've upgraded my PC with a Fractal Nano S case and a Be Quiet Shadow Rock LP CPU cooler instead of the stock junk, but the two included fans for the case result in the PC still being quite loud. To combat this, I got the Noctua NA-SRC10 fan resistors, and this significantly reduced the noise. Wanting to see how far I can go with this, would it be worth swapping the rear exhaust fan (Fractal GP12) for a Be Quiet Silent Wings 2 120mm fan? It costs about £10/$13USD The front fan has got some ModuVent covers and dust folters so I'm not too worried about that right now Also, since the Noctua SRC10s are just resistors, would it be safe to put two of them in series for the rear fan to make it even quieter? Thanks all

Have a Cryorig H5 Universal, but am getting 80 degrees with my 7700K in even the lowest ends of games, with every fan in my computer on full blast. Because of this, I'm thinking of getting a radiator instead. Here's the interior of my computer: I removed the front bays because I initially planned on getting a radiator, but then figured that air cooling would be enough. Fan at bottom blows upwards, grill fans are intake, rear fan is exhaust. My case is a Fractal Design R5 (no window). Let me know where I should put the radiator, which radiator you think I should get (and which fans, if I should get any for it), and anything else you might suggest for me. Thanks. <3

aight, so looking for a new tg case atm. Stuck between the Meshify C and the 460x, any ideas? Also Suggestions? Also must be less than 140

So I have a 7700K, and know how much hotter it runs than the 6600K, but I didn't think that it'd be consistently reaching 80 degrees no matter how demanding the game is. All the fans in my case are PWM except for bottom one, which is to block the air upwards so the intake has straighter path to the exhaust. I should also note that my 1080 Ti has never reached temps above 65 degrees. I currently have the Cryorig H5 Universal, paired with Startech Metal Oxide paste. If a different paste would reduce the temps, let me know. Here's a picture of my current setup. I'm using a Fractal Design R5 (windowless)

Basically I have no money and I want to put a huge window on my define R4 so I can see inside it. What do I need to look for in a piece of glass? where can I get a piece of glass? what sort of places should I go? My girlfriend suggested finding an old oven door, which would work perfectly because they're usually slightly tinted, so going to a dump and seeing whether I could salvage one could be cool. Beyond that I was thinking about going to a builder's yard and seeing whether it's possible to just buy a big pane. How difficult is it to cut glass down to size? How difficult is it to drill screw holes into one? I'm really not worried about aesthetics. My idea is to buy one of the spare side panels fractal sells, cutting almost all of it away so it just be the outline, then getting nuts and bolts and just putting a piece of glass on the outside. Similar to what Paul's Hardware did with his "Arctic Panther" Define R5, but much less professional. My concerns are how strong the glass would be, and whether I'd have to specificaly find glass which is heat resistant or anything. Also as a side note if anyone knows whether a Define R5 or Define S side panel fitts on an R4 that would be really handy.

Hello all, I'm looking to change my current case. I am rocking a HAF-X, which is a beast of a case and provides adequate cooling for my components. I've not yet made up my mind if I'd rather downsize, or move to something more minimalist but still full tower. Here is my current build (So that recommendations are within spec for my components): CPU: Intel - Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: ASRock - Z97 EXTREME6 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory X2 (16GB total) Storage: Samsung - 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital - Black 6TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card Case: Cooler Master - HAF X ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply: SeaSonic - Platinum 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Optical Drive: LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer Fan Controller: NZXT - Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller As the title suggests, I'm being very picky about my case selection. My HAF-X currently sits on my desk behind my monitors and I am going to be putting the new case there as well. I have ample room to do so. I have a few requirements for the case that I'm looking for, and I can't seem to find a case that quite meets all of them. I've checked out about 20+ cases, read reviews, watched YouTube videos of people building in them, etc. I still can't find one that really fits my style. Case Requirements: Full size panel window (no fan/cutout etc. just clear plastic or tempered glass) At least two 5.25 bays PSU shroud Some modularity with the HDD mounting Dust filters (that are easy to remove and clean without having to take the case apart) Good amount of I/O on the front Clean/Minimal looking (HAF-X is the exact opposite of this) So far I have seen 2 cases that ALMOST meet what I am looking for. Fractal Design Focus G (Which NONE of the large tech tubers have reviewed ) Corsair 750D Airflow Edition Here are what they are lacking: Focus G Not much I/O No PSU Shroud No cutout grommets Not the best for stuffing cables (even though I do have a modular PSU) HDD Cage just seems to chill in the middle, not symmetric Obsidian 750D No PSU Shroud Case is wide, so when the 5.25 bays are populated, it ruins the symmetry Bottom fan mounts seem more like dust intakes to me (I don't plan on populating them with fans, could be covered up I suppose) HDD Cage fits 3 3.25 drives (I feel like it would look like crap without populating all 3 slots, small gripe) Back area is completely visible on the right side below the 5.25 bays If you have any recommendations, please leave them below. I'm almost sold on the 750D... If I go that route, I'll have to learn how to make a PSU shroud.

Has anyone personally tried to cut a window into the side panel of a Fractal R4 Define? I know people have done it online, but I'm looking to see if anyone has any personal experience or advice they could give me. I was thinking of cutting a large square-window from the side panel and using either a thin glass sheet or acrylic plastic to make the effect of a window. I really like the R4 Define look, but I'm starting to wish I had a window. Don't want to just get rid of the R4 if I can mod it a bit. Thanks!

I was looking at the Fractal Design Define C and I really like it but the only problem is is that the height of the case is 440mm without the feet and 453mm with the feet as per the website. I need the height to be under 445mm because my desk has a shelve above it so I was wondwring if you guys knew if the feet were removable. Thanks!!!

My new HTPC build. PSU fan mod to Noctua NF-A14 ULN (Corsair stock fan was stupid loud). Minor case case for AIO water cooling. Had some parts from old build mixed with some new stuff. Swapped out stock Fractal silent 120mm fans for Noctua NF-S12a PWM's did the same on AIO NF-F12 PWM. Machine sounded like a leaf blower in my living room until the Noctua swap. Can not hear it at all now! SSD boot drive on MoBo sata header and 3 4TB WD Red on Rocket card in RAID 5. This pulls double duty as a HTPC and storage server. i5 OC'd to 4.2GHz cooler master AIO keeps it very cool at idle 26 degrees Celsius under load stays under 50 degrees Celsius. CPU Intel - Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler Cooler Master - MasterLiquid 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard ASRock - H170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory Storage SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Three Western Digital - Red 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card EVGA - GeForce GTX 960 2GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card Case Fractal Design - Node 605 HTPC Case Power Supply Corsair - CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Case Fan Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan Noctua - NF-A14 ULN 140mm Fan Noctua - NF-S12A PWM 120mm Fan Noctua - NF-S12A PWM 120mm Fan Other Rii 2.4GHz BACKLIT Wireless Mini Kodi Keyboard with Touchpad Mouse for Raspberry Pi 2, MacOS, Linux, HTPC, IPTV, Google Android TV Box, Windows (i8+) HighPoint RocketRAID 640L Internal 4 SATA Port PCI-Express 2.0 x4 SATA 6Gb/s RAID Controller -Lite Version

Hello, I thought I'd log my build as it has been such a painstakingly difficult process! It isn't completed yet, I still need to throw in a 1080tI and complete two lines of tubing but I can finally see the end... and it will be so rewarding when I get there! Anyway. I used to have a MATX Bitfenix Aegis case in which I had an I5-4690K paired with a 1070 at first and then a 1080Ti. The PC had a pretty neat dual radiator cooling system paired with a whole in 1 pump. It was a flexible tubing build with constant white lighting from a total of 9 Coolermaster 120mm and 140mm fans. Cooling was exceptional and it was a positive pressure build so dust was never an issue despite being in one heck of a dusty city (Melbourne). I felt the urge to upgrade the CPU after 5 years of trustworthy performance and sold the whole build. I owned a Razer blade 2016 for a while and the performance loss from the external GPU was just depressing so after about a year of ownership (much of it concurrent with that of my desktop), I sold it to another adventurous soul. So. I decided to build a more compact watercooled desktop that would pack a punch and look slick. I started by looking at a few cases and narrowed it down to two - The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX and the Fractal Design Define Nano S. I wanted a small build with great watercooling options. The Fractal case won out because it made no sense to me that the Phanteks case enabled top mounting a 280mm rad without efficient airflow (seriously!). I still had my 1080Ti (FE) so I proceeded with the selection of the other components: I7 7700K ASUS ROG Strix 270i G.Skill Trident Z RGB F4-3200C16D-16GTZR 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 1TB SSD Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 RGB Premium Edition Fan 3pk Phanteks F140MP Premium PWM 140mm Radiator Fan Black/White EK CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual Radiator EK CoolStream CE 280 Dual Radiator EK RES X3 110 Reservoir EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump Plexi EK FB ASUS Z270I Strix RGB Monoblock Nickel EK Full Cover EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate - Black & EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Nickel Upon receiving all this great kit, excited as I was, and having removed/assembled GPU waterblocks tens of times before, I proceeded to installing the waterblock on the 1080 Ti and 4 resistors later, I was done... Not kidding. In one foul swoop I destroyed my beautiful GPU. I didn't cry or get angry (surprisingly). I stood up, grabbed my keys and went for a long stroll. Over the next few days, I tried myself at welding, baking GPUs etc. On the bright side, between experiments I assembled the rig - and it was looking great. I had purchased 10mm hard tubing by Alphacool which is UV reactive and received OCcool fittings from Germany, including two 90 degree and two 45 degree fittings. I then tried myself at bending tubing. Overcooked the first two which bubbled up like a cane toad's skin and then undercooked the next few which just didn't look right. A few meters of tubing later (literally) I had one or two good(ish) bends. I assembled the lot, leak test - it leaked... Redid a bend, leak test - it held up. Excited, I connected the power to the CPU, GPU and mobo, powered up the beast and POOF! A puff of smoke, a flash and a dead GPU (confirmed dead at this point I guess...). At that point in time I made two decisions: 1. Bends, although I was convinced they had merit my looking at various videos, I would avoid, using 90 degree fittings instead. 2. I wouldn't bother building my righ absent a GPU. So, time passed (like a month or more) and time is an amateur modder's worst enemy. I decided I would upgrade the potential of my build from great to epic, and so I ordered UV LEDs and UV die (clear) for my build. And you know what? It looks super cool! Now a few details I skipped: The motherboard supports ASUS Aura (RBG lighting) but has only one set of RGB connectors The motherboard has no USB2.0 connector (3.0 only) The Thermaltake fan hub (to control the lights & speed) requires a 2.0 mobo connector The Phanteks fan connectors are different to Thermaltake's and are therefore not compatible with the fan "hub" The solutions were simple: USB 3.0 to USB2.0 Mobo adapter Corsair Commander controller fan hub allowing redirection of the USB2.0 signal to the Termaltake fan hub. Therefore we have: Mobo 3.0 connector > 3.0 to 2.0 adapter > Corsair Commander > Thermaltake hub With the two 140mm Phantek fans connected to the Corsair Commander and the three 120mm RGB fans connected to the Thermaltake hub. Now I am still not sure whether or not I'll be able to control the fan speed or lighting due to the use of an adapter - I am hoping I can but yet TBD. I could have opted for two 140mm Thermaltake RGB fans but I really like the muted appearance of the Phanteks combined with their "amazing" performance (according to other threads). So the status quo is: The 280mm and 240mm radiators fit in the case - it's snug, but it works. I have the 280mm rad at the front with two 140mm fans in pull configuration inside the case and the 240mm rad at the top, as close as possible to the window to make room for the RAM sticks, supported by two 120mm fans in push config. I also have a 120mm fan at the rear of the case pushing hot air out of the case - hesitant to rotate it so it pulls cool air in as I would need a filter and at this point in time cannot be bothered. I have hard line tubing linking the CPU to the 240mm top rad, the top rad dripping into the reservoir, the reservoir down into the pump, pump into the 280mm front rad. Once I get the GPU I will route the front rad to the GPU and then the GPU to the CPU and we can call it a build. The tubing from the res to the pump is vertical and would go along the contour of the GPU. I think despite being tight that it will fit. If it doesn't, I can use the two little 1/4 extenders that came with the res to push the loop closer to the window and clear the GPU - nice to have a plan for once... I prefer the look without bends - the black corner fittings blend well with the build. The positioning of the UV strips was difficult - initially I hat 80cm of strips going around the window and lighting it all very nicely. But like everything, good things never last and upon installing the two top fans, I realised I no longer had enough clearance. Now I have two separate strips, one hidden behind the top rad and facing down and the second 60cm strip along the bottom and front edges of the window. Happy for now but with two little worries: Will I be able to control fan speed and lighting through the USB3.0 to USB2.0 adapter? I have three different RGB lighting zones: The motherboard with the CPU cooler and the RAM The two RGB lighting strips The three 120mm fans (top x 2 and rear x 1) Ideally I would like points 1 and 2 above to be linked and 3 to only run when temps exceed X (party mode!). To do that, I need to configure the RGB cabling differently (likely mobo RGB header to split connector which goes to the 2 strips and connecting the CPU RGB connector to the end of one of the 2 strips). Next update will be when I get the GPU and finalise the build - I hope this is helpful to others looking at building a watercooled system in the Fractal Design Define Nano S. Thanks for reading! Mike

Will it fit in a Fractal Design Define Nano S?

Hello. As the title states, what is the better case for this build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HZHrqk I plan on bringing the build to lan's and to the classroom from my room(e-sport school) I want good airflow,temps and be as silent as possible since sound bothers me, feel free to recommend anything else. What fans should i use for intake since I have read alot of different articles and I can't really decide on what is the best. Don't know what else to say except thank you for taking your time to help me!

is the power-supply shroud and different storage location between the two worth the 30 dollar price difference? i think you can hide the cables better? I'm not sure. I saw reviews for both of them and I love the way it works. I'm just not sure if the 2 added features are worth it. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352055&cm_re=define_s-_-11-352-055-_-Product http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352063&cm_re=define_c-_-11-352-063-_-Product

Quick question for this year's Black Friday. Corsair HX850i or RM850i when they both cost the same? One's a bit older and i don't know if that makes any meaningful difference (though i don't think it does). I'd tend to go for the HX850i. Also on a side note: The Define C states a 175mm PSU compatibility. Will the Corsair line-up with 180mm length present a problem(cause it all looks pretty tight with that hdd rack there)?

Hey all, I would like recommendations on quiet, high efficiency (80+ Gold and higher) PSUs because the fan in my 3 year old Corsair RM650X is driving me crazy with how loud the motor whine is from the cheapo rifle bearings I recently discovered it uses. I believe Seasonic makes fanless PSUs but I’m not sure nor am I specifically looking for fanless (although that would be preferred). System is an i9 9900K overclocked to 4.7 GHz all cores, with a GTX 1070. Any help is appreciated.

Hey all, I have a Meshify C TG and recently made the switch back to air cooling. I am using the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 on my i9 9900K. I have 2 Corsair ML 140 fans in the front and 1 Corsair ML 120 fan for exhaust in addition to the fans on the Dark Rock. My temps are 28-30 Celsius on idle and between 60-70 Celsius under load with 4.7 GHz across all 8 cores. I have my fans set about 50-60% speed which seems to strike a nice balance, but when the Corsair fans need to do some extra work, they get LOUD. Are there fans out there that might improve acoustics while also maintaining/improving the airflow? I’ve been looking at Fractal’s Venturi series as the AF versions seem to move a lot of air for a small noise hit. Any suggestions are appreciated (as long as you don’t try to sway me back to AIO cooling, haha).

I understand this is a bit of a weird longshot inquiry, but for anybody who owns a Fractal Meshify C (or other Meshify case as I imagine it's pretty much the same on all)... ...Is it possible to remove the "Fractal Design" silver logo badge on the front? I mean, easily remove it without hurting anything else? I was just curious if it was doable if I wanted to go for a more subtle, "full stealth" look. I'm certainly not asking for anybody to actually try to pry the logo off their case and damage it, I will not buy you a new case if you do! Just wondered if somebody could take a quick look at how it's attached. Thanks!

Hi, I purchased Define S2 case, however the front panel got broken on shipment, I have contacted Fractal and they said that they will replace it for free. However They stopped the communication with me for 7 days now. Is there any where I can buy a front panel? Also I have noticed that they've released Meshefy S2 as well, is it compatible? Can I buy this front panel instead? Thanks

Just for the heck of it, i decided to mod a cooling fan inside my hifi stereo set. I know it's not very advanced wiring but is this considered ok? I tried first to steal power from the psu's head unit 5v/standby socket but couldn't get the the fan to spin without help, so i found a plastic cased 10 volt dc converter which came from old logitech speakers and decided to wire it straight to the ac input wire as a separate device. Would there be any downsides to this configuration, everything seems to work fine, fan spinning at 10 volts and venting out hot air from the case.

Hello everyone, not exactly sure if this is the correct section to post my question, but maybe it is due to my question. If the section is wrong, then I ask a moderator to move it to its right place. I have an i7 8700 cooled with an Arctic Freezer 34 Duo, Z370 motherboard (why a Z motherboard if I have a locked processor? Because the Z motherboard was cheaper and I wanted it) anyway, a Gtx 960 which will be replaced next year and a Samsung 970 evo plus nvme ssd. All in the Fractal Design R6 with the stock fans. My question is can I set the case fans to stop entirely when the system is either in idle or light work loads like browsing the internet, installing a game, etc. ? Basically my question is if my system does nothing demanding then do the case fans need to be running? Or can I just set them to turn on when the CPU is at x temperature? Like let's say the CPU temps hit 60C then the case fans start to spin at 50% as an example. Is that safe for the all hardware? Or the safe bet is have them running consistently but at a low rpm and link them to the CPU or GPU and as soon as the temps go up then have the case fans increase in rpm. Also to what should I link them to? To the CPU or GPU temps? I do play games.

Hey guys so I’m planning to buy a new computer, I have around 1500 Swiss francs (prices from digitec.ch). These are the parts I choose, but i’m not sure of the value and compatibility Ryzen 2700X Gigabyte X470 Aorus Ultra Gaming GTX 1060 (Gigabyte Windforce) 970 Evo 250Go Seagate BarraCuda 2 To Corsair H110i or H100 v2 Trident Z RGB 3200 MHz Meshify C Black Seasonic M12II-620 Evo First I chosed Ryzen because I’ll do a lot of photography, video editing (After Effects) and some gaming, but Zen 2 is coming soon, is the wait worth it ? I’m also planning to overclock both my CPU and GPU. As for the cooler I don’t really know, can the H110i fit in the Meshify C, or is the H100 v2 a better option? I want the best thermal performance without having to delide my CPU (This is my first build). For the RAM I heart that Trident Z is more optimised for Ryzen and I really want the best performances. This build comes around 1500.- (without windows and peripherals), is it good tho? I don’t have a lot of experience especially in cooling and airflow. The Meshify C is a small case so I was wondering if Corsair AIO will fit. If you find better option around 1500.- for what I do, I’ll take all suggestions. Thanks a lot!

Phanteks Enthoo Pro TG Full Tower or Fractal Design Define R6 Mid Tower Both are awesome, but I'm mainly having trouble deciding on whether to get a mid or a full tower. Thoughts?

Hello community, I am almost ready to build my first AMD based PC, and I'm leaning towards R6, but I would like to explore other options before setting on it, and instead of rummaging through the million cases in every online store, I thought asking you wonderful people for your suggestions. Here's what I'd like from the case: - Similar aesthetic simplicity to Fractals R6/S2 (also with a similar window pane) - Front mounted 3x fan 360 AIO CPU cooler - Enough Airflow to keep my GPU and temps in my case in check (using somewhat heavy overclocks) Any input is appreciated, Thanks in advance!