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Hello all! I have found a INNOCN 40C1R with a damaged screen. The panel is BOE QV400VWB-N80. The generous guy is selling it for $15. I talked with INNOCN to see if they would know where I can get the part but I got mocking responses. One response was asking for the Facebook listing and another sent a laughing emoji at me. Some company -_- anyways I'm trying to find the screen itself to repair it my self. Any pointers of where I can go to do so?? P.S yes I know my claim as IT and HP seems dumb and Karen like to say lol.
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Hi, to whoever is being afflicted by this (as myself), a dude found the solution. Show some love to: CREDITS TO THIS GUY YT VIDEO (its in spanish tho) Disclaimer: Do at your own risk, as this is flashing your device it could brick it completely. (I really doubt it but I wont take any responsability lol) Step 1: Download HyperX_eeprom.zip Step 2: Go to device manager Look under audio devices "Microphone (USB Advanced Audio Device)" Step 3: Right click said device --> Properties --> Details --> Select in "Property" dropdown "Primary" option. Get VID and PID. Probably are the same as image below (0d8c and 016c respectively, but would check yours anyway just in case) Step 4: Uncompress HyperX_eeprom.zip Open HyperX_config.exe Fill the data (and if you get an error of not found, connect it to USB 2.0, I had that error and that solved it) Step 5: Once you hit "Connect" and it does connect properly, just in case, select EEPROM -> FILE to backup your current state. Step 6: Once backup is done. Select File -> EEPROM and select whichever *.bin file corresponde to your device. (HyperX_QuadCast.bin for normal version - RED only light or HyperX_QuadCast_S_(RGB).bin for the S version, which is RGB) Once done, It will prompt a reconnect. Aaaand thats it, enjoy your device again. -
recently I bought a gigabyte rtx 3070 off of Newegg, the price was a little lower than msrp due to the fact that it was a refurbished card. once it arrived I removed my old 2060 12gb and in went the new 3070. once I got all the cables plugged in I clicked the power button and it starts booting up, the qcodes on my ROG motherboard goes through its codes like normal and when it reaches 98 boom. off. then it boots up again. qcode 98. boom. off again. after clearing the cmos with the clear cmos button on the back nothing worked. I figure we'll I better return this card, it doesn't seem to work, I reinstalled the old 2060 and booted up like normal, nothing out of the ordinary, at one point It restarts out of no where but I think nothing of it. I get a couple hours of vr in and everything works perfectly fine, then I head to bed. in the morning I wake up and try to turn on my pc. it boots up fine and I launch up a game, there's an update so I choose to open when complete while I leave my desk. I come back to my computer being restarted, after trying to launch up the game again it opens and when I get to the menu and it has to load 3d objects it completely turns off and turns back on again after a couple seconds. this keeps happening and I can't fix it, after I get back from work I come back to turn my computer on. and to my surprise. it's worse. I now can no longer get past the "Republic of gamers" logo with the "press del or f2 to enter bios" words at the bottom.
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I have a HP Pavilion x360 2 in 1 14 inch laptop PRODUCT NO. - 3W295PA#ACJ The touchpad doesn't response and the cursor doesn't show up sometimes after cold boot, and sometimes while using the laptop it randomly stops working but when I go into BIOS and go to system diagnostics, run touchpad test it appears, it even appears as soon as I go into BIOS. The laptop is out of warranty and due to holiday in INDIA the customer support is also not accessible for a couple of days. I am guessing it is something to do with Windows 11. Please send cavalry to help meh. Thx in advance.
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Manufacturers are making mainly usb 2 dongles to have compatibility with older systems and the transfer rate of usb 2 is still good enough for WiFi For years i had WiFi trouble till i realized that usb 2 devices need to go in usb 2 slots for optimum performance. I have always been putting it in the blue slots at the top for better reception.......... big mistake. Then i plugged it in a black usb slot and it works perfectly no drops, no disconnects in game, it is solid now. If you plug a usb 2 HDD in a 3.0 slot you will see that it drops in and out of optimum speed. usb 3 hardware can be put in a usb 2 slot no trouble.
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Hello, I noticed yesterday that my headset had a crack in the plastic where it denotes which side is which and moves with the ear cups when extending. I put some glue and tape to hold it together for now but was wanting to fix it properly. Does anyone have a place I can buy the part or know where I could download a file to 3D print for free? I found a couple people say they RMA it but I've had this set for well over a year. Any help is welcomed!
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Hello! Recently, I decided that as a reward to myself for surviving college, I'd treat myself to an RTX 4090 that I managed to snag at MSRP, as my eight year old GTX Titan X was really showing it's age on modern games. For the most part, it has been smooth-ish sailing. However, I've noticed in the handful of games I've played since the installation, I've had some serious issues with screen tearing that even V-Sync wasn't fully fixing. After substantial time messing with settings, I've managed to *generally* fix it in most games, but it's still not perfect in some of them. However, today I began to notice tearing at the upper sections on my monitor while watching YouTube, and even when moving tabs around on my desktop. Almost appearing as though the top portion of the monitor is at a different refresh rate than the rest of it, especially when typing on a page located above the line. Naturally, I went and started poking around the Nvidia Control Panel, and found that my monitor's refresh rate had somehow changed from 144hz to 60hz. I went to correct it, only for my monitor to absolute crap the bed. ( A video of which will be attached.) I tried changing the refresh rate in the Window's setting as well, but got the same result. Now, no matter what I do, I am unable to change the refresh rate as anytime I do, the monitor just goes nuts. However, the weirdness didn't end there. I proceeded to open up the monitor's quick menu from the buttons physically located on it. ( I don't know the proper terms for it), only to see it state that the current refresh rate is 120hz, with no way to change it in that menu. (A picture of this menu will be attached, in case that helps somehow) I also dug around Asus's GPU Tweak III software that comes with this particular 4090, and couldn't find anything related to the refresh rate. I've tried updating drivers, rolling back drivers, messing around with G-Sync, and just about everything in-between. Alas, I'm at quite a loss. This has never been a problem for me before, so I'm afraid I'm rather ill-informed regarding screen tearing. I've tried to find solutions and the like online, but haven't been able to find anything that helps so far. Thus, I was wondering if anyone could give me a hand or point me in the right direction. I'd very much appreciate any and all help! Specs: OS: Windows 11 CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 16-Core Processor RAM: 64GB DDR4-4800mhz GPU: ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 4090 Monitor: DELL S2716DG 2560x1440, 144Hz. (Native G-Sync) IMG_6751.mov IMG_6754.mov
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Im having an issue with my PS4 controller. My controller is acting like a mouse but its weirder then that, its only a mouse if i use a wireless connection (Bluetooth), but if i use a wired connection its normal, If i connect it with bluetooth and then i use a wire its switches between the two, after a bit it becomes a mouse again. Its really annoying, and i dont know how to fix it. Please help me with this problem.
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My monitor has been flickering, I recognized it isn't a dead pixel. Does anyone know a fix to this or what this issue might be? please send help T_T WhatsApp Video 2023-01-13 at 4.21.52 PM.mp4 monitor flicker.mp4
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So I have a Thinkpad X1 Yoga and the frame around the screen seems to be cracked near the left hinge, causing the screen to almost lift itself out of the case when opening the laptop or flipping the screen to use tablet mode. You can sorta see slight cracks on the back of the case. I saw recommendations for using hypoxy or super glue when the case of the laptop was damaged, can I use those same fixes in this case? Thanks in advance (In some of the pictures I'm applying slight pressure to the screen)
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Hello, I recently bought a new CPU fan and I installed everything correctly through a video, but when I turned on my PC, everything worked fine with the fan except for the RGB, fan is spinning and working and I plugged the RGB cable into the RGB header on the motherboard. I even tried to use the provided controller but that did not work either. I went to BIOS and turned the CPU fan to full power to see if that would fix it, but it did not. I was wondering if I could get any help with getting the RGB to work? Thank you! Specs: Intel i7-9700k - CPU ASUS Z390-A Prime Motherboard GTX 1060 3gb - GPU 16 GB DDR4 - RAM If there are any other specs you need, let me know
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So, has anyone ever taken a set of screwdrivers (sub-7 inches for TSA compliance) and spare batteries for their laptop (built-in sub 100 Wh, but replaceable, like a framework level of difficulty here) and actually bothered replacing a battery on the plane due to the built in one running out of juice? Forget any rational questions you may have about why just curious as to answers to this silly (potentially dangerous if you puncture the battery) idea. EDIT: I'm incredible disappointed with the responses I got. I'm not going to go through my technical or personal background, but yes, I have considered literally every danger point, safety concern, etc. written below and a number not. I'm not surprised by any of it. I also didn't ask to the feasibility, practicality, desirability, etc. of the matter. The question asked IF anyone HAS done it. I remember actually having a genuine moment where I considered posting this question asking if this incredibly stupid ideas has been done before because I feared that the comments would be filled with lots and lots of people posting about "why would you even?" or "have you considered obvious bad thing about obvious bad idea?" or "this would obviously be bad idea due to point mentioned in the question itself". In other words, negative reactions to an idea admitted in the second line to be terrible simply asking if terrible idea has ever had a practitioner willing to talk about it come out and share what they've learned with the class "Yes, fire indeed hot and hot in this particular way with this particular pain feeling" and no one actually answering the darn question. Indeed, that is what happened. There has got to be some concise way to signal that "idea is bad and I know that, now can anyone answer silly idea with silly response". Side note: most technically competent people are not so good outside their chosen domain. You'd be very surprised, but doctors, especially research doctors, are stupid bad at dealing with tech beyond a certain level. They'll have cache sync issues with their own code (regardless of if they write it or not), printer issues, etc. The only people I've ever met that were still doing the two finger keyboard typing game were in a research lab. So, they're just as likely to get freaked as anyone else -
soooo finished my setup a couple months ago and started having this issue lately. happened both during windows 10 and 11 -Every time my main monitor/pc sleeps, my audio from my audio interface cuts out and makes horrible pop sound. -Corsair iCue controlled fans stop running their RGB mode and get stuck in a “freeze” type of way. they essentially freeze and stop working. ONLY RGB -My USB microphone stops getting recognized having to make me un plug and re plug said peripheral. -Logitech mouse stops working, i suspect receiver stop getting recognized. -Scarlett Audio Interface doesn’t get detected on rare occasions upon boot up. -Windows shows that my Wi-fi USB extender isn’t connected to USB 3.0 even though it is. I do understand i may have too much USB data running and maybe my motherboard isn’t quite that good but I also don’t think i have an insane amount of USB stuff. Feels quite like a standard setup configuration. Would a pcie USB hub be worth it and any recommendations? thank you in advance and god bless CPU - Ryzen 5 5600X GPU - Gigabyte 3060 12GB Elite RAM - 32GB 3200 Hyper X Predator Motherboard - GIGABYTE B550 AORUS PRO AC
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So I've been building computers for a good six years and I recently ran into a problem that I've never encountered before. I built myself a new personal rig and for the first time ever, games started to crash without warnings or errors, yet I never got a BSOD. For reference, Here are my specs: Torrent Meshify 2 compact standard edition Corsair RM750x Gold Edition (2021, modular) MSI 3060 TI Ventus 2x OC edition (v1) Torrent Flex B-20 Gpu Riser (Gen3) AMD Ryzen 5900x (base speed) Kraken x63 standard edition Artic MX-4 thermal paste (2021) Msi B550 Gaming Plus Motherboard 2x8 TeamGroup Elite 3200mhz ram (base speed) 2x140mm and 1x120mm outtake fans (two of which are RGB fans) 2x140mm and 1x120mm intake fans Asia Horse Cable Extensions for all devices 18AWG At first, Games would run for a while, but eventually crash to desktop. I also noticed auditory and visual artifacting between games. From my experience, lower end programs like Risk of Rain 2 would crash less often, but still crash at peak demand. Games like Grounded, Elden RIng and RDR2 would load in lagging and then crash seconds later, with fluctuating stability between attempts. Weirdly, despite all that, Heaven's benchmark could run for hours and never crash, but it would still stutter lightly on occasion. I tried DDU, rolling back a DD version, updating bios, downgrading bios, reinstalling windows cleanly, undervolting, changing power configurations in Windows and Nvidia Control Panel, reseating and reconnecting cables, running games in safe mode, removing RGB software, installing newer AMD chipset drivers, etc. But then it hit me! My board and cpu config can support PCIE gen4 devices, so I enabled them, not realizing that my Flex B-20 was only configured for 3rd gen. I also noticed that my PCIE cable extension was plugged into the pigtail end of PSU's PCIE cable, which I believe was causing problems when high voltages were necessary. After manually setting my x16 gen speed to 3rd gen, all instability was gone. So bottom line is, remember that GPU riser cables are not typically 4th gen natively and you may need to reconfigure your pc to accommodate such accessories. -
Hey i have been using my desktop for almost 1 and a half years and it started to make this weird noise or buzzing (you can hear it clearly in t he attached video) i cleared my case and its still happening i also use stock wraith stealth cooler. while booting its completly silent but randomly it just start to make this noise even without load on cpu or disks. pc.mp4 -
A while ago I had a big issue with my computer. I had posted it a while back but no one answered. So I'm going to try again. Half a year ago my pc took a turn for the worse. Needless to say there was a power issue and my computer just wouldn't boot normally. I figured it's damaged my motherboard so I put it up and rebuilt my far less expensive set up. Fast forward 6 months later I get the urge to see if it works. And it does. No issues with boot up like before. But now the only issue I'm facing is that some times on some games (not all of them) my computer will just shut off and reboot. No blue screen and no crash report (to my knowledge on Reports) I need a legit genius like linus to help me because my landlord isn't gonna help me get new parts. Please help Pc specs: Rog rampage iv Extreme I7-3820 16gb ddr3 Sata 1tb SSD/1tb HDD MSI RTX 2060 Gaming Z MSI Optix G32
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Hi! Today I've been trying to get into my headphones made by eska e1000 and I can't get my head around if it is a screw or not. I just need to see how I can get into it thanks! 20221103_182429.heic
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When any of my blue switch keys start having key chatter, I apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol and then press and blow into the switches. This usually removes the key chatter. For example, today I had key chatter on my W key so I did the usual steps and it got fixed, however, a few hours later my D key started having key chatter so I did the usual steps to remove key chatter and it got removed but after about 30 mins, the D key lost its click. I tried the usual key chatter removal steps again and the isopropyl alcohol temporarily restored its click but then the click got lost again after about 20 mins. What happened? And what can I do to restore the blue switch click without desoldering? 20221026_190134_1.mp4
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Hi everyone, First thing is, if it's the wrong place for such post, then please move it to the correct boards, as I had no clue where else to post it. So, my PC isn't exactly the newest thing around, but it works very well at 2K in many games. Here are my specs: GTX 1070 8GB i7 6700k 4Ghz 16GB DDR4 RAM Windows 10 64bit I've recently bought Uncharted Legacy Collection on Steam. I have my good old PS4, but the game is kind of blurry on it, so I decided to check out the PC version since I can use Reshade etc. to make it sharper and cleaner. My issue is that the game has no way of properly changing the resolution in-game aside of the resolution scaler option. After testing it a bit, I have noticed that the game runs far better when I set my desktop resolution to either 1920x1080 or 2160x1440 prior to starting the game instead of using said scaler (it was also the case with God of War), but that means I have to change the windows resolution to my native 4k each time I quit the game. Is there possibly some sort of an app that would force my desktop resolution to change to a different one upon starting a given game and then automatically reverting to the resolution I normally use after I close it? I know I can just change it back to my native one myself after closing the game, but it's kind of annoying. Thanks in advance for any help :). -
So I was playing and speaking with one friend, when my pc just went put of game. Black screen, heard something like error( example, wheb you click out of working windows when not allowed to), then I heard sound of my friend and music in background. But monitor shows no signal. I restart pc again hear but no signal. And I let it to cool down a bit, now it started but this blue windows logo. Last time I saw this logo, PC went to repair and I waited fvcking full month to get done. And got priced really high. What the heck is now with it. Its not moving from this logo. I tried to boot without usbs connected but nothing, then i changed sata cables, nothing. Reinserted ram, cable from gpu, and still nothing. I know pc is old but i need it now
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If you have this problem then read this. So first connect your usb/dvd and go to bios, then save and exit and select Launch EFI Shell from filesystem device then spam enter before it gets to command prompt
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so a little while ago I decided it was time to upgrade my PC which was going well until I got a new cpu (RYZEN 5 5600x) which was not compatible with my motherboard. so I got a new motherboard and it still didn’t work and so I did a bios update because it was supposedly supposed to work after I flash bios but then the problem continued so I chose to get a new motherboard and try that out. so I got a (MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX II) which I don’t think is compatible with the AMD RYZEN 5 5600x without a bios update but I did end up updating my bios but it still just turns on runs for a minute and then restarts. I have tried getting a new power supply, I tried putting in some different sticks of ram I borrowed from my friend, I got a new hard drive and a new M.2, but the problem only seems to be with the cpu, because I have tried putting my old cpu in my pc (AMD RYZEN 5 1600). and it ran fine but every time I try to use the ryzen 5 5600x it runs for a minute and then restarts. I am going to see if my friend who has a ryzen 5 5600x in his pc will let me put my ryzen 5 5600x in his pc to see if it is a problem with the cpu or not. in the end I think it’s probably just a motherboard compatibility issue or maybe a faulty cpu but idk i’d like to hear your thoughts.
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Hello! I have a Gigabyte Aero 15 Oled and I broke my screen (model: ATNA56WR14-0). In my country there are no thecnical assistence that want to do the replacement. By the model of the screen, I think that my laptop have a 40-Pin eDP QHD+ connector. Since I don't need such a high resolution, I started looking for more affordable ones, like the B156HAN08.0, witch have a higher framerate and lower resolution. I saw the datasheet of this model and found out that this have a 40-Pin eDP Touch connector. My question is: Can I plug a 40-Pin eDP Touch screen to a 40-Pin eDP QHD+ laptop without burning the laptop? Do I need to cut the last 10 wires? Or should I use a 30-Pin eDP screen plugged into an adapter like the one that is in the image? Sorry about my english PS: I saw this connector names here: https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/section/Articles/1245191276/Screen+connector/
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I bought a USB 3.0 around 5 years ago, I had a entry level laptop at that time and then I got the change to upgrade my computer to a better one and I decided to use the USB to transfer my most important files and when I was transferring my files from the old laptop to the USB, my computer got stacked in the process and I wait for around 30 minutes to see if the transferring continue but it did not. all the computer was stacked and I couldn't even turn it off so I just unplugged the USB and manually turned off the laptop afterwards. Then I connected the USB to the new computer and everything seemed ok, the files that I care the most were there and others less important did not transfer to the usb. I started to transfer the files to my new pc but during the process it got stacked and then the USB stopped responding and then it disconnected by itself. I tried again a few times but the outcome was always the same, it stopped responding and eventually it disconnects. I was able to navigate through the folders and see the all files without any problem but when I specifically go to one folder it always stopped responding and eventually disconnects. With the time it got only worse. Now I cannot even see the files on my usb because as soon as I connected the file explorer stops working and it doesn't even let me see the files anymore. It always appears for a few seconds on my pc and then it disconnects. It doesn't even show me how much storage space is being used. Is there a way I can fix the usb without losing any data or formatting the usb? Is there a software or tool that I could use to finally recover those files? Thank you so much in advance for the help.
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PS4 controller not connecting whatsoever, I tried all solutions I can find on the internet which includes uninstalling the device in device manager (which I couldnt find to begin with) and enabling the device in the control pannel (which had the same problem as device manager nothing shows up even though I get a orange light ) tried 3 different cables none showed a diffrence ( and all of them transfer data Ive confirmed that) I tried reseting the autoplay settings but still nothing and all I get is a orange light once and thats it any solutions please
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