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I recently got a new phanteks enthoo luxe, and it works fine. However, on some of the lighting profiles, like the yellow, 3 of the Leds are a different colour or just off. Is this a common issue? If so will it fix itself or is there a solution?

Hello everyone. My 6-year-old laptop hard drive is faulty (SMART predicted failure, or something like this) and since it was so old I decided to replace it instead of repairing. Right now my laptop has a primary SSD and this secondary drive in which I have installed almost every program and where all my folders (users, desktop, images, etc...) are located. Ever since the PC started to warn me, I tried to back up that drive with the Windows utility, but it has always failed (backup on my external drive), so for now I just copied my whole users folder so I have a copy of the most important files. Now my new HDD arrived. How do I replace the old one? Any third party program? Can I just copypaste everything using the external drive? Thanks in advance, and as usual I apologize for any grammar mistake

So, about 8 months ago I got two new 4GB RAM sticks, for a total of 8 GB. Everything has worked perfectly until a couple of days ago. BIOS and Task Manager still recognizes and says I have 8 GB of RAM, but it says that 4GB of it is always in use. This is what the Task Manager tells me: http://puu.sh/gQuuw/699c90e3c1.png Task manager and BIOS says 8GB is recognized, but using some Life is Strange hardware detection thing it only detects 4GB, as you can see here: http://puu.sh/gQuDF/35198c31a2.jpg This is what it says in RamMap: http://puu.sh/gQuVe/f9cd05ddfb.png Is this a common sign of a faulty RAM stick, or could this be caused by something like a virus? My computer is choppy as hell now, and it's incredibly annoying, so I'd be very grateful for any help! Thanks.

Really hope someone can help me our or put me out of my misery. This is going to be wordy and I'm sorry but I want to get everything clear. My build is in my signature, its old parts and most are second hand so I'm very aware that this could be a hardware problem. I've noticed audio stuttering when I am playing music from different sources; youtube, media monkey, itunes and I scroll through steam, either my small library or the store page. The same stuttering happens when I turn on 720p or 1080p quality on youtube videos and I just try to watch them, with nothing else running on my pc. Same happens in twitch theatre mode. Same thing happens in games with any kind of sudden, huge graphics change; I noticed it in gun point when switching from normal playing mode to wire jack mode. The game stutters and the audio stutters really bad. I had these issues a few months ago and solved then by pulling a 2.5 inch hdd out of my pc that I just had a linux install on. I've actually pulled a 2 hdd RAID-0 array out and replaced it with a single wd black drive and these issues have come back. I've narrowed it down to 2 possible causes but I've no solid way of testing either one: 1. Its a dying PSU and it can't push enough juice to my GPU. It should be able to its a 650W. like taking out 1 2.5 inch hdd gave it enough headroom to let my system run normal again. or 2. Its a dying GPU, slowly kicking the bucket and removing the hdd just gave the PSU a bit more juice to prolong its life. Doing anything GPU intensive is limited. My fps in borderlands 2 maxed at 1600 x 900px all setting on high except for physx have dropped from a smooth 70-90(even over 120 in places) to about 30-40 since i noticed the audio stuttering

ok so, i have a AMD XFX 6870 black edition graphics card, a 750 watt power supply, amd athlon x4 3.2ghz processor, two hard drives, 12gb of ddr3 memory and a ROG crosshair 3 formula MB. to cool my processor i have a CM seidon 120v single 120mm rad, and i have a problem. i tried to install a disc reader to use disc, obviously, but after installing it and turning my pc back on... well the ROG logo popped up then nothing "no signal" my computer said, ALSO before saying try a different graphics card i have and still the same. also sorta off topic i know my pc is nothing special i am only 13 so yea. after checking from webpage to webpage i have found no solution. after a while my screen wouldnt even appear, and my fans kept like restarting or lowering their rpm for a short time before speeding up again. so please help. my skype is: robgogsmc if someone wants to video call and ill show them.

Now before you go all saying "You don't need to overclock to run CS:GO hurrdurr". Well, this overclock is for other games that I play that're demanding like AC: Unity, GTA V, Dying Light etc. and when I'm not playing all those games, I play CS:GO. But when I play CS:GO my OC profile is on by default as it's already applied on windows startup using MSI Afterburner. Everything runs fine at first but after 20 minutes of gameplay my CS:GO crashes. Everytime. So I have to turn off the OC profile and use and un-overclocked profile every single time I launch my CS:GO. Not that I don't mind doing that multiple times. But it's getting annoying and somewhat worrying. Is my GPU faulty? Or is it just something wrong with the game? Note, sometimes when my gpu is not overclocked and is idling, I get a 2 second black screen and it says "Nvidia kernel mode driver has stopped working and has recovered" or something like that. Help?

I just put them into my computer, they do not work. Has this happened to anyone? There support website is pretty bad and I can't find a suggestion to what is going on. Everything is in the right way and they didnt tell me to install any drivers so I am totally baffled to why they are not working. (I have 3 years insurance on them so I can take them back) OS: Windows 7 64 bit (My motherboard was from a alienware x51 before I took the motherboard out and put it in a new case)

Hello everyone. My gaming computer released the magic blue smoke today when I plugged in a faulty DVI cable into the onboard graphics. ~~IF ANYONE HAS AN ASROCK Z77 EXTREME4, PLEASE TRY TO GET A GOOD PHOTOGRAPH IF THE PARTS NEAR THE HDMI PORT~~ This cable had given me troubles before when I used it on my normal graphics cards, but the cards just simply shut off instead of exploding things. I decided to mark the cable as defective using the Photonicinduction method that way I wouldnt mix it up with my other 50 spare cables. Anyway, when the cable was plugged in, after about 10 seconds I smelled the smell that we are all so unfortunately familiar with. However, the PC kept going. My eyefinity monitors weren't disturbed, and the audio I was playing continued to play. I shut the machine down immediately and unplugged the cable once I smelled smoke. Is this machine still safe to operate? Or should I desolder and replace the blown component? I have had SMD soldering experience. If I desolder anything, what should replace it? The failed component appears to be D8, a diode? Other parts on the board seem to be labeled "LNW 24" but have different designators. I have some low-tech marco photos of the only visibly failed part as well as the annihilated cable in a .zip file, and they can be found full size here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-LjUeh-cirIeVJTbEYwa1pUMnc/view?usp=sharing Motherboard is an Asrock Z77 Extreme4 if anyone has the same board. Thanks!! Note, this is the same post as here where more photos can be found: http://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/my-motherboard-released-the-magic-blue-smoke!!!/ please let me know if cross posting is not allowed. Edit: It works! Thanks everyone.

Hello everyone. I have gotten many faulty monitors in the past from the IT department that I now work at, and most of them have been fixable (bad caps, faulty supply, shattered backlighting tube, ect) and they have all been 4:3 monitors at 1280x1024 or less. Not great for gaming, especially when a game refuses to run on eyefinity or that one of them had an "impressive" 25ms response time. I recently got 3 syncmaster 204b displays and fixed them, and the 1600x1200 resolution looks nice and sharp compared to what I was using. Now I want to go further and get myself some widescreen monitors 21in or bigger, and I want them to be IPS or useable-end TN. I use V226HQL monitors at work and I could not believe my eyes when I read that a monitor so cheap yet good looking was a TN panel. The blacks look very good on this display, but the 8ms response time is the killer for me. So looking for a budget set of three displays, where can I find some matching NONFUNCTIONAL displays that would be good for gaming? I can generally fix 1. Flickering or flashing 2. Turning off after a bit 3. Not turning on at all However, I do not want anything that has 1. a cracked panel 2. Dead pixels/lines 3. Pressure damage 4. Scratches 1080p is NOT a must, but I wont be paying a lot for a 1440x900 panel... Thanks!

Hi, I recently upgraded my brothers pc with a new graphics card, but since then the internet have been weird. It currently switches between 3 "states" when I move/shake (with care) the pc. 1. The internet is working fine and I have a valid IP and everything. 2. I am connected to the network, but I get a 169.254.XXX.XXX, which seems like it can't connect to the DHCP server. 3. It is off, it can't see or connect to the network. I can also make it switch between these "states" by touching the internet cable plugged in the back of the pc. Is it a faulty port? If so, is there anything to do about it? When installing the graphics card I did take the motherboard out of the pc, but I don't think I bend anything and I was using a Anti Static Mat with armbrace. Please bear with my minor faults, English is not my native language. Best regards, Jonas

UPDATE: For anyone suffering the same issue, or anyone curios, It was the motherboard. Somehow, the CPU socket either wasn't getting power, or it wasn't able to recognise the CPU for some reason. A quick refund and purchase of the same board from another supplier, and she works like a beauty. Thanks for your help, guys and gals! ORIGINAL: Hey guys. I'm new to the forum but have been watching LTT for a while. I recently bought and built my first PC, but I'm having some pretty serious issues. Specs: CPU: Intel i7 4790k CPU COOLER: Corsair H105 Motherboard: ASUS Maximus VII Hero GPU: EVGA GTX 980 SC (Ref Design) RAM: 16GB HyperX Savage @ 1866MHz PSU: EVGA 850W G2 80+ Gold Modular SSD: x2 HyperX 3k 240GB HDD: Western Digital Black 3TB CASE: Corsair Obsidian 750D FANS: Standard 750D 140mm rear exhaust and x2 140mm front intakes. Stock fans on CPU cooler in exhaust (Was thinking of swapping to intake for easier cleaning of the rad at somepoint, but, not really my main concern at the moment... ) So, immediately from the first boot, the PC would power up, reboot within 2-3 seconds, then stay powered on. Fans would spin, water cooler was working, motherboard light and GPU lights lit up, etc. Everything seemed to work fine. But here are the detrimental issues: 1. PC would power up, reboot within 2-3 seconds, then stay powered on. Only happens if the PSU is turned off or unplugged - in other words, if I turn the PC off but don't disconnect the PSU or turn it off at the switch on the back, it'll start up without rebooting. 2. CPU Fault - My motherboard indicates there is a CPU fault by illuminating a red LED next to the 24pin power connector and the RAM LED. Only the CPU is lit up, and it is solid. The motherboard manual only mentions a flashing LED. 3. On the On-Board motherboard error display located in the top right, I get error code '00' display constantly, when on. When consulting the manual, it says this is not assigned or not used. However, when searching online, this error code is associated with the same symptoms I'm having, but many don't have soloutions or if they do, of the ones I have found, they're something I have tried and not been able to do. 4. No POST. Although everything appears to run, there is no POST at all. I get no 'beeps' from the BIOS speaker which I've been told is built into my motherboard. Not just that the screen is black, the monitor picks up no signal at all. I have: Checked all PSU connectors for loose connections. (I don't not know how to or if it is possible to test whether the PSU output is too much, not enough, or too erratic - anyone know how to/if I can test this at home without another PSU? - but the power will stay on, powering fans, lights and the cooler) Tried Disconnecting components one by one (GPU, SSDs and HDD, RAM) until only running on the CPU, CPU cooler, and RAM. Tried Re-seating RAM modules and trying them in different slots Tried Removing the CMOS battery with all power off and mains unplugged. Tried Resetting the CMOS via on-board button. Tried Changing CPU thermal paste to see if that was causing an overheat (Starting to get desperate now) Checked the motherboard CPU socket to ensure no damaged pins, and from what I can see with a magnifying glass and tactically-positioned LED, they're all as the should be. Tried Re-seating the CPU. Tried to get an output via GPU and iGPU - nothing. No post. No output what-so-ever. Tried contacting ASUS Support but haven't heard anything yet. Tried following the motherboard manual and online guides to FlashBack the BIOS via USB and button on the back I/O (Now knowing this can be risky) but I don't think it did anything as it is stated the FlashBack button should continue to flash until the procedure is done and the light goes out. With me, It just flashed as I held it and then stayed solid. I'm assuming this means I'm on the latest BIOS drivers already. Tried Using DVI and HDMI to connect to monitor. 100% know monitor isn't faulty as it recognised the cable being there, but was receiving no input signal. I don't have spare parts to be able to switch out and test. I'm currently at the point where I'm fortunate enough to be at University (UK) on a Computer Science course and have spoken to a tutor AND the head of the IT department, both of which have 20+ years in the area and believe it to be a CPU issue (Such as DOA or faulty in some way) and have advised an RMA. This has been requested. One of the reasons the IT head thinks DOA CPU as the motherboard has a built in speaker which is not sounding when attempting to POST. Obviously, if the CPU isn't working as it should, It can't give an audible output to notify me as it would if it was the RAM not seated properly. Also, the obvious LED light indicating the CPU issue, as well. Luckily, he's said that should the supplier test and evaluate the CPU is functional and return it to me, to take my system into Uni to his office, and he'll go over it inch by inch to diagnose the issue. So, I wondered if you guys had encountered an Issue like this or known of someone that has with these components or similar ones. Whether or how they resolved it. What you guys think it could be and what my next step is. Basically chose to RMA CPU first as process of elimination as they will test it and let me know. Will take it step by step - any suggestions, support or wealth of knowledge is highly welcome. Thanks! TL;DR: Newly built system wont POST. POST-speaker doesn't make a peep. System starts -> reboots -> then powers up and stays on. Red, Solid, CPU light on motherboard. No output from GPU or iGPU. Monitor is functional (recognises cables but no input signal. Awaiting RMA approval for CPU in order for supplier to test it to either replace, or eliminate as the issue.

Hi Forums, I bought the Gigabyte GtX 970 G1 Gaming but my overclock stats are horible! I only get +150 on Clock (That's good) but only +250 on memory clock before it i get artifacts and drivers chrash. Is my card defect? Im also using 110% on power limit but my card only seams to go up to 75% under full load.

I'm currently in the process of sending my 'faulty' GTX 760 OC for RMA. The issue was that certain games, primarily DirectX 9.0 based, kept crashing with a loss of signal, then displaying the error message 'Display driver Nvidia Windows Kernal version... stopped working and has recovered'. Having read a few threads about power limit it occurred to me that maybe I have exceeded or come close to my TDP and this is causing the issue. I own a Corsair CX500 500W PSU. (80+ Bronze) I researched that my PC uses: AMD A8 7600 LOAD TDP: 107W GTX 760 Twin Frozr OC LOAD TDP: 286W WD Cavier Blue 1TB LOAD TDP: 6.8W Overall that's around 399.8W power usage, leaving 100.2W (Plus some other traces of power usage e.g. RAM) Note: My components are not overclocked above the MSI factory overclock. Could this be the issue? Second opinions welcome! I would try buying a 600W PSU and testing but my RMA is limited to the 16th Jan so I don't really have time. Thanks

Hello, So my hard drive who I bought 2 days ago (Western digital black edition) have been really quiet up untill some hours ago when it suddenly started making sounds like "old" hard drives sometimes do durring read/write. Not my video but it sounds just like that (You might have to turn up the volume). And it's far from quiet, i can hear it from 3-4 meters away quite clearly. Considering it's such a new purchase should I return it for a replacement or is that sound "part of the package"?

Hey guys, Keelan here just have a few questions about my 970 and drivers. Pretty much to keep things nice a simple I have a overclock right now that I can run benchmarks for hours and without high temps (never goes over 60) But the problem is randomly my drivers can stop working where I get a black screen for a couple of seconds and then it forces me to my desktop as the drivers become recovered. It's really weird because the benchmark can be left on overnight without any crashes but sometimes I can be playing team fortress 2 and it randomly crashes Any ideas? (I have set power management to prefer maximum performance and I also set my windows power settings to max performance) Thanks -Keelan

So the mini-jack on my almost 2 year old AKG K518s just broke, and the right earcup won't emit any sound unless I play around with the cable angle. I checked with AKG and they have a 2 year warranty, my problem is these were a christmas gift bought from an Norwegian online retailer. I might be able to get some kind of shipping confirmation, but that's about it. How can I RMA these?

Hi, so I have a problem with my build and I need some help. My pc is randomly crashing (the screen turns black as if the power was cut off), it started to happen a long time ago but just a couple times and it stopped happening, now it's back and worst than ever. It usually happens when I'm gaming but it can happen as often when I'm doing something else, even when I'm afk. I've done a stress test for 1 hour and the pc is stable. One thing I know for sure is that the power supply power is more than enough to handle everything. Here are the specs: Motherboard: Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 CPU: AMD FX-6350 Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 1600MHz (2X4GB) Graphics Card: Asus Radeon R9 270X DirectCU II TOP 2GB Storage: 1TB WD Blue + 500GB WD Green PSU: Corsair Builder CX750W I'm posting this here because I suspect that the problem is in the PSU and I didn't know where else to post.

Hey all, I've been helping a friend build a new PC, a build which I have already done before so I know the configuration works. However when I attempt to turn the system on, it never posts or beeps (with the 4 pin speaker in). So it's really hard to diagnose. Build: CPU: i5-4690K RAM: G-SKILL 1866 DDR3 GPU: EVGA GTX 770 MBO: Z87-HD3 PSU: Corsair 600W 80 Bronze Okay so, so far I've tried. - Reposition the two 4GB DIMMS in every combination - Used a 1600 version of the same brand alone - Used an Antec 600W PSU - Used another Z87-HD3 (Same model) motherboard - Used intel stock cooler instead of Cooler master EVO 212 that we installed first - Taken out the GTX 770 (to use intel has integrated GPU) N.B CPU was installed correctly So could it be a faulty CPU? Thanks all in advance!

It seems over at eteknix they have seen that evga have f*cked up. "The images of the new card and its cooler suggest that they’ve used the cooler from a bigger card to save on manufacturing costs; the problem here being that one of the three heat-pipes barely makes any contact with the GPU. Rival cards are out pacing the EVGA card in the cooling department and it’s likely that the card could be performing better in benchmarks if the cooler was used to its full potential." http://www.eteknix.com/evga-gtx-970-feature-manufacturing-defect/

Hello, I decided to migrate here after I asked the same question in Toms hardware but received little/no support, so I was hoping the people of Linus Tech Tips would do a bit more than their unsuccessful counterparts. Moving on, my graphics card (Sapphire Dual-X Radeon R9 280 non-x version) makes a funny noise at load, and this is not to do with the fans (I have tested 100% fan spead with msi afterburner, so I doubt there is a fan problem). There is no overclock. At less than a little load (maybe 40-60%), it makes a rattling noise, but I am not sure if this is faulty. Here is what is sounds like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoSitSAmP_E&list=UUH511luN7pyAHRGZD03_etQ (load at 0:50) turn volume up. Could anyone tell me if there is anything wrong with the card, or if this is normal? Or will I need to return it?

i just did a cleanup and took appart my system, been having some problems with the aio cooler and i figured why not post it here, this is the reason i never reccomend getting an aio cooler, unless you are going to be traveling alot, use the pc as a lan pc or something similar, a traditional air cooler means less noise, less wires and cluttering, less points of failure, that block of aluminium is unlikely to disapoint you. i brought with me the trusted tools any techie needs and prepared for battle. my first cooler got rma'ed due to the horrifying grinding noise, sounded like the pump was trying to eat itself, with the second cooler i would get nearly 40*c - 45*c in idle and 75*c ish under load with stock voltage, with maybe around 20 *c ambient temperature, why you ask? well you see corsair hasn't done an overly fantastic job with the mounting tools they provide, i will show you why my temperatures were so high in the pictures below. as you can see the cooler has barely made any contact on the cpu at all, maybe dangling on the edge of 1/3rd of the cpu, this picture aactually does it more justice than reality, in actuality the smudge of thermal paste is see through and has barely settled on the cpu. the waterblock even further proves my point, as you can see the thermal paste is largely in tact the way it was applied when it was at corsairs factory, except for the part that i touched with my thumb . what i did was to take 4 rubber o-rings and place 1 on each screw hole beetwen the mounting bracket and the motherboard. like this, previously the backplate was completely loose and wobbling around, this made it make slightly better contact so that i could actually tighten the thumb screws and have the waterblock/mounting rack sit snug as it is supposed to do, be careful with tightening the water block if you were to replicate this though. this made my temps go from 40+ idle and 75 ish load to sub 29*c idle and this in load, roughly a 15*c difference as it's abit cold inside right now, from what i hear this is a pretty common issue with corsair's aio coolers, depending on the thickness of the motherboard etc.

Please Help me i have no idea what to do. May 3 2013, i received my In Ear Flux Pro Headphones from steelseries. opening them up i realized that the 4th Pole on the 3.5mm jack would come out. So i submitted a ticket. May 14 i received an email saying sorry for the delay it was sent to IT admin by error by one of the support team member. He asked for address to send the part and said it would be shipped with in a week. i gave the information and stated "no worries mistakes happen" the same day. May 28th i replied saying mike what is going on nothing has been sent or received. I messaged LInus about it and i was extremely grateful when he replied saying he would help me out. May 30th he replied saying sorry shipping at the end of the day. June 7th after receiving nothing i asked if there was something going on he said no just IT error. July 16th Today, Just received the part in the mail..... they sent the wrong attachment they sent the split headphone mic and headphone instead of the clearly stated on May 3rd 4 pole 3.5 mm I seriously appreciate this forum and your speedy reply, unfortunately i have no idea what to do. i Seriously think that waiting two and a half months for one small attachment is ridiculous, by any company. I really don't want to wait another 2 months. Keep in mind i was extremely polite and the extent of my anger in messages was only saying that i was frustrated. Is there any other way they can be contacted? Any ideas? Bad luck? Please Help Thanks Richard

Hi, So the other day i had to move my computer downstairs as i had to get my room re plastered, and ever since i moved it downstairs its been having problems. i didnt drop it or do anything stupid, i just moved it downstairs. Today i have had 2 power cuts, and each time it turned of my PC all of the components are working apart frrom the CPU and graphics card, whick are plugged directly into the motherboard, all of my fans, the power supply and my fan monitor are on and working, and i dont know what to do, any help or suggestions of what the problem could be! Thanks!

Okay, so the other day, my house had 2 power cuts, both of which turned of my PC without warning, and now my CPU Fan randomly stops spinning and My gpu stops aswell, i have narrowed my problem down to my cpu fan as when i unplug the cpu fan and plug it back it it starts to work again, but only for a few hours, Should i buy a new fan or is there something else that i can do with my problem? Thanks!

I have been struggling with nvidia driver problems since l bought my MSI 660 TI PE/OC in September last year, ("Nvidia driver xxx has stopped responding and has successfully recovered"). Today while just randomly checking temps and stuff in HWmonitor I noticed that all of my voltages on my motherboard is very unstable, and jumps around alot. When I get the nvidia driver crash, my screen usually turns black, and comes back online after about 5-10 seconds. I have noticed that my GPU RPM drops to 0 (Used msi afterburner for monitoring GPU). I have done a clean driver install more than once, on different versions so I am pretty sure it is not faulty drivers. Note the +12V running at 8.184V-8.272V should it not run at +- 12V? My pc specs: Board: MSI Z77A-GD65 Bios: Version A.80 VGA: MSI N660Ti PE 2GD5/OC PSU: Coolermaster GX-Lite 600W (The cause of the problem?) Intel Core i7 3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz LGA 1155 MEM: Corsair Vengeance 4GB DDR3-1600 - CL9 1.5v XMP 2x4gb HDD: Seagate Barracuda 500 gig 7200rpm and 2x Seagate Barracuda 2000GB (64MB;7200) Soundcard: Asus Xonar Essence STX COOLER: Antec KÜHLER H₂O 620 CPU Cooler OC Gpu:Factory OC Cpu: Stock Memory: 1333 mhz OS: Windows 7 64bit Professional I have been meaning to replace my PSU, because I want to get another MSI 660Ti PE OC, and run the cards in SLI. Please ask for any additional information you might need. The bulk of my pc is only a year old (Bought the stuff September last year), with the exeption of my PSU, the psu is about 2 years old. Dukfruk