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Showing results for tags 'fan'.
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Hello, i bought a new PSU last week, everything was alright until today, i was just playing a game, then i was about to quit it, but my PC went off with a loud pop sound, i disconnected every cable i had there, i took off the PSU which was hot and smelled like it is fried. So i replaced it with my older PSU, but my CPU and GPU fans were like crazy, GPU had 27°C which was normal when i turned the PC on, but CPU cores had 67-70°C which is not normal cause on average when i turn my PC on it's usually 46°C One note, the whole process of replacing PSU took me about half an hour so CPU should have been cold already right? So im wondering if it messed up the CPU/Mobo or if it's hot just because of that PSU failure or if it is broken and i have to replace it.
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Heyo! I'm pretty new to computers so please be gentle on me. My current setup is: CASE: Asus tuf GT301 MOBO: Asus tuf gaming b460m-plus (wifi) COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition 3 rgb case fans to a hub with an external sata power and a cable leading to chasfan1 header and another leading to the add_gen 2 header. What I want to do: I want to purchase 4 Cooler Master MASTERFAN SF120R RGB and my goal is to move the 3 rgb case fans that came with the case to be rear exhaust and top exhaust omitting the current non-rgb case fan that's currently only rear exaust. Then I want to use 3 of the new rgb fans as front intake and use the 4th as the pull on my cooler and to use the current cooler pull as a push on the other side of the tower and connect it to CPU_OPT. My question: How do I do all this. the fans have a link plug on them so i can link the 3 argb for the front to one header on my mobo and the cpu rgb one to another header for split control. Do those fans get power through the same cable or is there a seperate power cable i'd have to connect to my chassfan1 header and have rear and top exhaust to the chasfan2 header. That leaves me with another question would a hub with external power that only using the signal from those headers be ideal or can i just get extenders and link all the fans together to the chassis fan headers.
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Hello LTT forum, I would like to replace my fan in Synology DS718+. Would I be able to reaplace stock fan with 92mm fan with 4pin inside my nas? Sorry for my bad english
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Using a Ryzen 5 2600 on this board in a CoolerMaster SG13 case. The CPU fan is a Noctua something PWM mode and behaves itself well. I've set the fan profile up in BIOS using QFan control and am monitoring temps and fan RPMS using the AIDA64 Extreme utility. I came back from going downtown while leaving the AIDA64 tool running and the chassis fan (set for DC mode) suddenly went from about 450 RPM (idle setting) to 1400 RPM. I wasn't there when it happened but this correlates with nothing else at all. The CPU fan did not change a blip. There is no spike in CPU load, chipset temp, or anything else. As the CPU fan appears more effective, and is less noisy, I have that one running a little faster at low temps and ramping up sooner. Rebooting the PC makes it behave again, so it seems unlikely to be a wiring problem (e.g. losing the tach signal). I'm just using the stock front fan in the case and am willing to replace that if it would be likely to help. It seems more likely to be a BIOS issue but don't have a good way to be sure about it. If need be I can put a scope on any of the signals, though that would be a hassle for sure. I did note that the BIOS is not the latest, but the release notes on the newer BIOS doesn't say anything specific about this issue. I have had this PC for about 18 months, and hadn't noticed this behavior before the past couple of days. That said, I just moved it to behind the monitor from behind me and near the floor where I'd be a little less likely to notice it. -
Hello! This is my first post. I purchased a my first PC secondhand last summer and it works great, but it does this weird thing. When I turn it on, the Zotac Nvidea 2080 fans boost to max power for about 5 seconds, then back down to normal, then back up for a few seconds, then back to normal. This happens 2-3 times, then the system posts and windows comes up. Fine enough, I guess. You do you. The part that bothers me is that when the computer sleeps and I wake it up, it does a similar thing with the fans and a black screen, but this one does not end. I haven't let it go for more than 30 seconds because I don't want anything to melt or something. What's the deal? What I've tried: Rebooting (obvi) Reseating the GPU Changing the CMOS battery (it needed it anyway) Updating the BIOS, it needed one Checking for GPU updates (none) Specs: X570 Aorus Elite AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Zotac Nvidia 2080 64GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 5 3200 MHz running at 2666 whatever because of the CPU bottleneck Help my computer sleep please. PLEASE. Thanks. -
Hello, I am soon going to work on a pc build however only recently found a flaw. I have the Corsair spec delta case:https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Mid-Tower-ATX-Cases/Carbide-Series-SPEC-DELTA-RGB-Tempered-Glass-Mid-Tower-ATX-Gaming-Case-—-Black/p/CC-9011166-WW ik it isn’t good for airflow in general however I ran into another issue. My motherboard supports 5 fans whilst my case supports 6 and I don’t want to spend more money on a fan hub. my question is, what is the best fan arrangement for this situation, I have a aio liquid cooler for my cpu, the m22 nzkt kraken to be precious and I I want to use that for the single fan exhaust, and three intake fans and leave the top empty, would that be a good idea?
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Sam issue. Gigabyte Gaming X mobo, Phanteks P500A DRGB case, original fans, pwm, F5 bios on mobo. Added same type fan (1x) at the back of case. Working with SmartFan 5. The case fans all run at around 1000 RPM, the additional one at the back 20% higher all the time, same specs. Tried changing temp origin: PCIE, Sys1, Sys2, ... only CPU changes the way they work, range being: 1000-1350 RPM (the one on the back goes to 1500RPM, somehow). Custom fan curve doesn't work. I've got it set 15% RPM @25C, and 35% @40C CPU temp, and it runs at 800RPM (that's 50%), if it goes below 700RPM in bios, the rpm meter in bios goes red. No idea why. I do not have a callibrate button in bios. My CPU fan (BeQuiet DarkRock Slim) works very well on stock. (Other specs on my machine: i7-10700K stock , RTX 3080 Aorus Master OC, 32GB 3200 CL16 RAM, BeQuiet 1000W, 2x Samsung Evo 500MB SSD)
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So I decided to plug in an old 80mm fan with LEDs to my NZXT Sentry 3 to test out the lights and I noticed that when I lowered the fan speed, the lights would dim. The fan I tested with: The 3 pin connector of the fan controller (its wide enough for a 4 pin but only has 3 physical pins) Currently I have two 140mm fans that I would like to switch out for Corsair 140 LED fans which would be hooked up the fan controller because my motherboard doesn't have enough fan headers. Is there any way to prevent the LEDs on the fans from dimming when I lower the speed? Sorry this is my first post and if there is anything wrong with where I posted and the format, just tell me and I'll fix it
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Hello! I just changed out my cpu cooler and it has insanely low temps. It is 40 degrees idle and it was 50 degrees when I was playing COD warzone. I am using a ryzen 5 3600 and monitoring with NZXT CAM l. Are these temps okay? I’m not sure if they can be too low. This is very surprising to me because I also only have a mediocre cpu cooler. I would greatly appreciate an answer.
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Here's the situation: Upgraded to RTX 3080 Strix Doesn't fit in my Silverstone FT05 (at least with the stock AP181 fans) Swapped out AP181's with slimmer FM182's The FM182's have a 2-pin fan speed controller, which doesn't not play nice with the AP181 and FT05 3-pin fan controller I'm not a fan of the included controller with the FM182's as they need to go in an expansion slot. The FM182's have a 2-pin connector with red and black wires running to them, so I'm thinking the included controllers are just rotary potentiometers (but I don't have a multimeter to test). The 3-pin on the FT05 has a red, black, and yellow wire and is controlled by a dip-switch (H/M/L). I've tried using jumper wires to connect the FM182 2-pin to the FT05 3-pin. Here are the results: Black-black + red-red allows the fan to work when the FT05 controller is on high only. Black-black yellow-red allows the fan to work when the FT05 controller is on medium only. Black-black and (yellow-red shorted)-red allows me to use both medium and high (but with no change in fan speed). This is the only combination of shorted wires that works No combination of wires allows me to use the fan while the FT05 switch is on the low setting. Yellow-black and red-red and vice-versa do not work at all. Using the AP181 with the FM182 fan controller works when the FM182 fan controller is set to high only; this works for any combination of wire attachments. Would any of you have any ideas on how I could hook up the 2-pin the 3-pin controller on my FT05? Or do any of you know how the FT05 fan controller configuration works? Thanks in advance. -
Greetings, I built my first computer today, quite a difficult task indeed, but i'm at the last step here, everything is plugged in except my fan hub. So the case i bought is from a pretty obscure brand (xtrmlab) and it comes with a fan hub with all the fans plugged into it , i plugged the sata power to it but i cannot figure out how to plug it into the motherboard, it has a cable plugged into it with VDG output (see pictures below) and another connector which i don't recognize because i'm a noob to this. my motherboard is an Asus prime B-450 plus and all the fan headers on it have 4 pins, i'm guessing the VDG one is for RGB control but i'm not sure. (i can turn on the computer, the cpu cooler fan spins just fine, but the case fans only light up and don't spin) Please help me! Thank you
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Hello. So I have this build of mine which is outstanding. Except for one thing, the case fan is EXTREMELY loud. I tried cleaning it, but it still makes a lot of noise. Since my build is an open case PC, I thought it wouldn't effect it's performance if I take out the case fan. But here lies my problem: My BIOS Always freaks out when the fan isn't there and plugged in, and I would like it if it didn't blare at me when all I want to do was start my PC. Since My MOBO is pretty old, there isn't a way to turn it off from in the software. are there any hardware hacks to make the computer "Think" that a fan is there without actually having the fan there? Preferably without Soldering? -
I have a MSI GTX 1060 6GB ARMOR OC (https://www.msi.com/Graphics-Card/geforce-gtx-1060-armor-6g-oc.html), and the fans randomly rev up when I'm not doing anything or when I'm playing a game and only when my GPU hits 59-60 degrees it goes in the 2000rpms it even hit 4700rpm once. not at 58 degrees or lower, then they're not spinning, but it doesn't overheat. is there maybe a software that could fix it? or is the fan control on my card broken. Help would be greatly appreciated! -
Hello there. Long story short, I used to be able to control and set up custom curves for my case fans via various Windows apps. I used Gigabytes SIV as I have a Gigabyte motherboard. But now I can only adjust the speed of the fans or set up custom curves in the BIOS' Smart Fan. Won't bore you why but I once had to take the cmos battery out to reset, since then the above described issue has been going on. Also, SIV won't even launch even after reinstalling it multiple times using different methods. No error shown, it just simply won't open. Other Gigabyte apps work though, like RGB Fusion, works direct and through Gigabyte's App Center too. Apps like Speedfan can't even detect the fans. However, Corsair's ICUE software can see them and shows their RPM. Had 2 BIOS updates since the problem (no changes to this issue) and I just have no clue where to even look or why taking the CMOS battery out would affect something like this... System: -Win 10 Pro X64 -Corsair Crystal 570X Case -Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Mobo updated to F12l bios. -4 Corsair SP120 RGB fans connected to Sys fan ports on the motherboard (RGB cables connected to case control) -2 Corsair fans that come with the H115I Pro AIO (I can control these through ICUE under the AIO settings without any issues) Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? P.s. I know there's no need to keep messing with the fans, I just set up a curve I want in the BIOS and leave it be; hence why I dropped this issue for months. But if something doesn't work exactly as it should it does annoy me. What probably annoys me even more is that I can't fix it....
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Hi all! Been a fan of LTT for quite a while, so nice to meet you guys! Straight into the point now; I recently built my new PC (and it roxx!!, more details in future posts) and I got myself for case a Cougar MX410 Mesh-G RGB. Case fans have individual 6-pin (!!) connectors that all connect to a hub. This hub has a 5V 3pin ARGB adaptor that I connect to the mobo ARGB header (Hail b550 tomahawk) Hub also has a sata power connector for the PSU that, in users manual, it was requested to be connected. I guess, fans can draw power even via the ARGB adapter but the PSU connection was still requested in order to relieve the mobo. My question is; can I somehow control RPM of these fans? My system seems not to read their speed (SYS Fan 1 0RPM) On the exhaust side of the fans, I can read some specs like '12VDC' I'm not into these things so much, just some google search, but does it mean it's the ''opposite'' of PWM, so I can't by default control their RPM? Please help me out with this, if there's something I'm missing here! Thanks in advance!!!
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Hi guys! The question is in the title. I already looked into the user manual, but the only thing I could find is that the CPU_FAN can provide up to 1A. But what about the CHA_FAN? Thanks in advance! -
Hi, Quick question, I wanted to set a custom fan curve for my Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Eagle OC 8GB because I heard that the stock fan curve sucks. Basically the fans start at 45 degrees celcius and almost instantly go to 95 percent speed. This is my first time making a fan curve and based on some internet research I made this. Is it good?
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Hello! I recently built my new rig, in which I selected for case a Cougar MX410-G Mesh RGB. There are 4 preinstalled RGB fans with propitiatory 6pin-cougar plugs, which all lead to a RGB hub connected to the ARGB header of the mobo (and also another SATA cable for PSU) These are standard DC fans that...I can't control their speed but at least my system should read their rpm...amiright? Many people say even on DC fans, rpm can be controlled. Anyway, they are DC so I just moved on and bought DeepCool MF120GT 3 fan pack because I needed some better cooling (which I actually made-more info on upcoming post) and ofc the RGB (excellent design for exhaust fans) These fans are actually PWM, they lead to a 4-pin PWM hub connected to the SYSFAN1 header of the mobo. Also there is another hub for RGB, which is connected to the second ARGB header of the mobo. Thing is, my system can't read the rpm of these fans either, yet they are PWM! Here is a screenshot from Dragon Center. In BIOS the picture is the same, the only fan the system reads is from CPU! Is there anything I am missing here? Should I make any specific change to settings? Thanks in advance, any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
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I'm trying to change the RGB lighting on my heat sync fan that came with my CPU but it seems to be stuck in a default RGB lighting pattern and I can't change it. I tried using ASUS AURA and ARMOURY CRATE to detect the device and it won't even show up. I've also tried plugging it in and out of my motherboard to make sure it wasn't a connection problem. I have no idea what the issue is. Help would be appreciated, thanks! SPECS: Operating System Windows 10 Pro 64-bit CPU AMD Ryzen 7 2700X RAM 16.0GB Motherboard ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING (AM4) Graphics VG245 (1920x1080@75Hz) 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 (MSI) Storage 931GB Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-08WN4A0 (SATA ) 465GB Western Digital WDC WDS500G2B0B-00YS70 (SATA (SSD))
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I purchased some RGB fans for my case some time ago, 3 120mm and 1 200mm. The smaller ones only have a regular 3 pin MOBO connector and one for the power supply, however the 200mm has the power supply and a 5V 3Pin RGB header connector. Unfortunately, my MOBO doesn't include an rgb header and I didn't realize this beforehand. I found a 5V 3Pin female to SM 3 Pin Male adapter but I haven't been able to find the opposite. So, this may be a silly question, but I'm wondering if there is a 5V 3Pin Male to SM 3Pin Female adapter I would be able to use instead. I was looking at external RGB controllers but wasn't able to find one for the 3 Pin RGB header. Thank you in advance for any help!
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So i just noticed this now.. Last time i noticed the fans theyd not be spinning below 50 degrees, and afterburner and xtreme tuner could lower fan speed upto 0% today I just took a peak and i saw that the fans were on all the time, i tried to setup a custom profile but no use the fans dont go below 30% now. Any idea guys? Attaching the images below
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On March 29, around 11:50 AM, I was watching a video on my Asus Tuf Gaming F15 Gaming laptop. The battery usually lasts a few hours, 5 at most. Anyways, in the middle of said video, I got a notification from what I think was Armoury Crate asking me if I wanted to switch on a certain mode in order to conserve the battery, as my laptop was plugged in at 100%. I clicked OK, as I didn't think it would be much of a problem. Several hours later, after unplugging my laptop (I had been in a Microsoft Teams call), I immediately noticed that my battery was being drained at ridiculous speeds. I'm talking 100% lasting just over an hour. In addition to that, my fan is unbearably loud at all times, and I have no idea how to disable this thing that's causing my laptop to run so aggressively. Even as I type this, the fan sounds like a jet engine. I would, really, REALLY appreciate any and all input. I've checked numerous times, and I don't have anything at all running in the background. I did find something in the logs that is most likely the input I gave when I clicked OK, so I will be including a screenshot of that. And the sudden change in battery life was sudden, not gradual. Just the day before yesterday I was using it on battery for hours at a time. Again, I REALLY need some help with this. I haven't been able to find anything online resembling my problem, so I'm turning to this forum for help.
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Don't mind how dirty it is because I am going to be replacing the casing today and that's why I need help. See those 2 holes under where the fan screws are, I have no idea what to do because the screws wont reach there. Also there is really nothing under those holes either, just the casing. if anyone can give me a guide on what to do such as what screws I will need, will be much appreciated
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Does anyone know if it's possible to connect a 2 pin fan to a 4 pin fan header? Ideally I am looking for a 5v fan 80mm 4 pin fan less than 15mm thick, but the closest thing I can find only has 2 pins?
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Hi everyone, first post here! Bit of a story telling here tl;dr right after. So tonight I decided to try and repair my GTX 1060 3GB mini from Gigabyte. My goal was to get a quick look on disassembly. 6 screws and voila! So I get to the part where i unplug the power connector to the one (1!) fan and boom, it's not coming off... I think (and I know that's not a reference) that it's soldered (???) so I wanted to ask you guys what you thought. (pics incoming hopefully) tl;dr cracked open my Gigabyte 1060 3Gb mini and the fan connector is doing it's hard to get. pics
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