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  1. A few months ago my PC started to BSOD and crash when playing video games. I'll list original specs, testing specs, and current specs at the bottom. I ran benchmark, such as cinebench and heavenly, and stress tests such as aida64 and memtest but they all came out good. My computer kept getting BSOD so I took a shot in the dark that my CPU was the problem since I dropped it and bent the pins when I first installed it. All the pins are straight now. This is also the last time I got a BSOD, from here It crashes to a black screen and no power to keyboard or mouse. I attached pictures of the error code. One points to Nvidia drivers. I did a complete wipe and reinstall of all Nvidia drivers but the code continued to show. I put a Ryzen 1700x into the original setup but it would crash before even getting into windows so I brought in another motherboard to try that out, bringing us to the testing specs. I used the new motherboard and 1700x with the rests of my original parts on a test bench for a week with no issues, so I updated the BIOS and inserted the Ryzen 2700x. This continued to work for another week unhindered. I went ahead and purchased a new motherboard that will be compatible with Zen3 in the future and rebuilt with that, bringing us to the current set up. The new built with the 2700x and x570 board worked for 2 days before it would begin to stutter into a complete crash. I installed the 1700x and this worked for 3 days before the same issue began again. I'm not sure if it could be related, but about 3 weeks before this started happening my original WD Blue 2tb drive failed and I replaced it. Original: mobo: Aorus ultra gaming x470 Cpu: Ryzen 2700x Ram: GSkill trident Z 2x8GB 3200MHz Gpu: Gigabyte Nvidia 2070 variation of some kind Power supply: corsair 750W gold+ Storage: WD Black 500GB NVMe m.2 2 tb seagate barracuda Testing: mobo: Asus prime x370 Pro Cpu: Ryzen 1700x / Ryzen 2700x Ram: GSkill trident Z 2x8GB 3200MHz Gpu: Gigabyte Nvidia 2070 variation of some kind Power supply: corsair 750W gold+ Storage: WD Black 500GB NVMe m.2 2 tb seagate barracuda Current: mobo: Asus Strix ROG x570 itx Cpu: Ryzen 1700x / Ryzen 2700x Ram: GSkill trident Z 2x8GB 3200MHz Gpu: Gigabyte Nvidia 2070 variation of some kind Power supply: NZXT 650W - comes with NZXT H1 Storage: WD Black 500GB NVMe m.2 2 tb seagate barracuda
  2. ok so this is gonna be a bit of a long one but ill try to shorten it as much as possible. for a long time my computer was working fine great even but then I accidentally installed a bad stick of ram and that killed it i obviously pulled the bad stick out but to no avail. After that i started troubleshooting the rest of the memory starting with pulling out all but one stick and cycling it through each dimm slot and then repeating the process for each known good module being sure to use the memok function on my motherboard on each configuration but still nothing worked/ the post code is 53 which means memory initialization error but the interesting thing is even with no ram installed its the same code when in that case it should be 55 this started to lead me to believe it was possibly the motherboard or even the cpu causing the issue so i cleared the CMOS which didn't work so then i reseated the cpu being sure to check all contact pins and pads and even though they were fine this still didn't fix anything system info: CPU: intel 5930k mobo: asus rampage v extreme memory: 16gb corsair vengeance lpx 2666 GPU: 980 ti PSU: corsair ax1200i I am completely out of ideas here so any help would be appreciated
  3. So recently my PC starts to crash and just go into a black screen and be completely unresponsive, no sound or any input is being registered. My temps for both GPU and CPU are around 40-45C when it crashed because I was just on doing lightweight tasks(Web browsing, 3d print slicing). I've tried reseating my ram and GPU, check the reliability history and event logs, but nothing seems too alarming(I don't really know what I'm look for tbh) also, I have not made any hardware or software change to my system for about a few weeks and this happened a few day ago. The power or reset button are also not responsive so I have to brutally restart my PC by pulling the cord from my PSU Specs: R5 1600 16GB Corsair Ram Zotac GTX 1080 Asus Prime X-370 Pro Silverston 700W 80Plus Titanium Anyone with any ideas or suggestion on how to fix or find whats causing my PC to crash would be much appreciated!
  4. Essentially: "SMART detected HHD/SSD failure 2: Corsair Neutron XT SSD WARNING! Please back up your data and replace your hard disk drive. WARNING! Your HDD/SSD might crash at any moment. Press F1 to Run SETUP." I can't get past the BIOS, the PC just restarts and shows the same error. All the devices are still showing up in the BIOS and on the warning page. Was having no issues prior to installing a new GPU & CPU cooler. I was getting a CPU fan speed error prior to the failure warning because I'd accidentally put the CPU fan on a chassis fan header (silly me). After shutting the PC down and fixing that problem I got the failure screen.
  5. Hello Forum, Months ago the motherboard of one my laptops (ASUS F555L) got broken (I was almost 100% sure about that after t-shooting but I took the laptop to an authorized repair shop and it was confirmed). The repair shop offered to replace the board for ~900 BGN (around 500$) which was ridiculous given the fact that I bought the laptop (brand new) for 700 BGN (around 390$). After some searching I found a replacement board with even better processor for just 140$. After months of waiting I finally got the board, replaced it and the laptop was back to life (almost). The only thing that wasn't working was the display, however I was able to use an external display without a problem. I figured that maybe this was some sort of driver issue so I started downloading new drivers for the new board (ASUS X555LD). Everything was fine until I've decided that upgrading the BIOS will be also a good idea.... At the moment the laptop will power UP and that's it - no Windows, no BIOS, no image - just a black screen (the same way like it used to be before replacing the board). I'm not even 100% sure if nothing happens or just the display is not working... I was reading that there's a way to flash a new BIOS from a USB drive but I'm not sure if I'd be able to do this with this board. Furthermore I'm not even able to take out the CMOS battery from the motherboard because it doesn't have one. For the update I was using firmware and tools from the ASUS' website and before the restart of the machine everything was fine - I also received a message that the update was successful. P.S. I'm aware that this ASUS series are quite crappy but my mom was using the machine in order to run very lite software products and it was doing the job just fine.
  6. Hi! I have a weird issue with my motherboard. I have freshly installed windows 10 64bit on my computer and when I want to shut it down first I got the windows screen with the shutting down text and the loading, then the display goes off turns to sleep, but the pc and all of the fans are keep running and they wont stop. But when I restart it it shuts down for a few second and then start itself again. Help me please what can I do with it? PC config: Motherboard: Asrock H61M-DG3/USB3 CPU: Intel Core I3 3220 RAM: 2x4GB DDR3 1333MHz SSD: Kingstone A400 240GB GPU: Gigabyte Geforce GTX 550Ti PSU: 500W
  7. Hi I would like to ask why does it do this? Is it dead? All of Steam GONE! :(
  8. I built this PC about a month and a half ago and have had no problems thus far. Specs: AMD Ryzen 3900x, RTX 2080 Super, MSI MPG x570 Pro Carbon Gaming Wifi mobo, Corsair vengeance 16GB DDR4 3600 RAM, Corsair H100i AIO liquid CPU cooler, SeaSonic Focus Plus Gold 850 W PSU, Western Digital Blue 1 TB m.2 NVME ssd, runs Windows 10 x64 Note: whenever my computer boots up normally, the cpu light goes red, and the fans spin fast, then the light goes off and the fans return to normal speed I was on Discord talking with a friend when, suddenly, the display cut off, and the computer, which was still on, did the same thing it does when it boots up (red light, fast fans, then back to normal). Then, the MSI logo came up, and then the screen cut off again. The boot up thing happened again, the msi logo came up again, and then the screen displayed "updating" for the MSI bios I believe, went from 0 to 100%, and then the screen cut off again. From there, the computer stayed on and continuously looped the red light, fast fans, back to normal boot up sequence without ever sending a display signal. I turned the computer off and back on. From there, it acted normally for a good couple minutes (I got back onto Discord), then the display cut off again. It then entered back into that boot sequence loop for a while until eventually the loop stopped and the computer just sat there, rgb flashing, fans spinning, just like normal, but idle, never sending any display signal to the monitor or signal to the keyboard. I cleared the CMOS, and after that, it now only does the bootup sequence once upon startup, like normal, but the computer has still yet to send any signal to the display or the keyboard, meaning I can't pull up the bios. Some help would be extraordinarily appreciated. Thanks.
  9. Hello all, Since Friday, my desktop has been running incredibly slow. It takes about 15 minutes to get to the home screen and 15 minutes to shut down. I have forced restarted (held down the power button) many times this past weekend. A few times, I have seen the message "failed to connect to a windows service" upon booting up. My desktop has been running incredibly slowly and I cannot do simple things such as viewing the web. Simple things such as going through folders on my desktop has been frustrating simply due to the time (It will take a very long time and stop responding while it loads). Does anyone know what might the cause be? Virus? Dead drive? Should I reformat? Should I factory reset? Thank you.
  10. A couple of weeks ago my 780ti went belly up. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I proceeded to disassemble the unit and see if anything obvious was wrong. What I'd found was that one of the surface mount resistors had completely come unsoldered from the board. It was one of the r33 square resistors. A simple test showed that it had failed. It was down to 0.1ohms instead of the 0.33ohms that it was supposed to have. This would have increased the current passing through to a dangerously large degree thus eventually melting the solder. Does anyone know what form factor these resistors are and where I might get some so that I might attempt to bring this back from the grave? I've tried looking for r33 resistors but I don't know the form factor or the power limit. Thank you in advance. Peace. To clarify it's an EVGA SC model.
  11. So my HDD just died. Is there any way to uninstall old apps and programs from the system which were installed on my HDD?
  12. I just build my first Pc it won't post main hardware I7 7700K GTX 1060 6Gb with a gigabyte motherboard gaming 5 Z170X the Gigabyte website said that my mother was available for a bios update to make it compatible with Kayby Lake it. beeps 5 times indicating CPU failure and when it starts it just repeats the start up no display happens keyboard won't power up I can't power with it off I have to force it off with hard switch please help. Display on motherboard says 55.
  13. Hello, I am 14 years old and is is my first time building a PC, although I built it with some friends who have built a PC once before. I have been saving up for ages to build, and I finally got the chance to. And building a few weeks ago, everything worked fine, I even got into the windows 10 desktop. However only 4gb out of 8 of my RAM was recognised. In attempt to fix this, we changed the dimm slots around and things, but instead it just kept turning on and off repeatedly, but all the fans were spinning and LEDs lighting up, however no signal to monitor. So we sent back the ram and got a new pair sent out, but, just as last time, it turned on and off but everything else worked. If someone could please help me as I am not sure what the problem is and I really want to get it working! Thank you. Specs; i5 6400 w/ stock cooler gigabyte gtx 1060 6gb windforce gigabyte h170 d3hp motherboard 2x4gb DDR4 2133hz Kingston hyper X fury ram WD Blue 1tb hard drive nzxt s340 white corsair 550w semi modular psu
  14. Quick summary of the history of my Asus ROG G750JM - I got it summer of 2014, it worked amazingly until I installed Windows 10. I was 15 and I didn't know shit about computers. Now, I'm pretty sure Geek Squad fucked me over and told me I needed to replace the drive, so I did and got a 120GB SSD and 1TB HDD. It was pretty fucking sweet. They reinstalled Windows 10 and I was back to business as usual. I started having issues with Windows crashing frequently. Not exactly blue screening but more my screen going black and Windows being unresponsive other than my cursor still moving. I tried getting Windows 8.1 back on it but Geek Squad refused and told me I HAD to pay for it. Bummer. I took it to my buddy and he installed an OEM of Windows 7 Professional. It worked great. Then it didn't. I didn't even install much on it aside from a couple games on Steam. Windows 7 began crashing as well as on boot up I would frequently get read/write errors. That's a problem with my SSD isn't it? Well Windows 7 eventually became corrupt and I had to scrap it. I didn't have access to my friend at the time since he was off doing whatever the fuck, so I installed Linux (specifically Ubuntu) on it. It worked great. Then I began getting read/write errors AGAIN. After many reinstallations of the OS and swapping between three different drives (one of which ended up breaking, it clicks now so... scrapped.) I finally have it running Ubuntu just fine on my SSD. My SSD is alone so I have very limited storage (that's fine) and it works great. The only problem is that fact that I'm running Linux. I want Windows back (preferably Windows 8.1 because it ran best on my PC) I'm not sure if it'll work even at all. I'd rather not buy a new copy of Windows and running the windows livetime-environment off a USB doesn't accurately predict how well it's going to run. So I tell you all this with multiple goals: 1. Someone will read this and know exactly what's wrong with my PC (if anything) 2. Find some way to accurately test Windows 8.1 on my laptop 3. Find out if there's an issue with my SSD, motherboard, or both. 4. Possibly get a cracked copy of Windows? I know it's bad to pirate but to be fair Windows gave me Windows 10, geek squad LOST my copy of Windows 8.1 by reinstalling Windows 10 and then I lost my copy of Windows 10 because I used an OEM of Windows 7, which I ALSO lost by installing Ubuntu. If anything I want to use this cracked copy as a test and sometime down the line get an official copy. Thanks for reading even if you don't have a solution for me.
  15. I have an old dell with a 320gb HDD that's failing. I want to throw in a new drive but I also want to keep all my programs, OS, setting, etc. Is cloning that drive still an option? If not can you please inform me of what I can do to move/keep my boot drive's data.
  16. Specs: Motherboard: GA-Z270XP-SLI CPU: Intel i5-7600K RAM: 1x Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2400MHz PSU: EVGA BRONZE 80 PLUS 500W Graphics Card: EVGA ACX 3.0 GTX1070 SC Cooler: Cryorig M9i The PC is newly assembled and won't post (Monitor says "No Signal"). The CPU and DRAM LEDs on the board light up alternately, indicating something's wrong. When the power is pressed, lights go on and the fans spin. The beep code is repeated 2-second long beeps which continue for about 4.5 beeps until the PC shuts down on its own. It restarts on its own after a few seconds and the process repeats. I can only suspect there is something wrong with the RAM but I'll have to obtain a new stick to test it, which I don't yet have.
  17. When I turned on the computer I instantly noticed that the monitor had some kind of issue, on the blacks the monitor renders this (see file attached) but then, when an image which requires backlighting or has brighter colors on, it fades out the "image", but it is still slightly visible. I was wondering what is going on with my monitor, it was not like that when I left it earlier this morning. This is not a reflection if not you would see me taking the pictures. It does it even when the video in (hdmi) is not plugged so that rules out the gpu as being the cause. And the two other monitors i have on the other side work just fine. plis help Other specs: Display: HP 2311xi GPU: Gigabyte G1 GTX 1070 8G
  18. Since last week my Athlon 860k build has been acting a bit weird. In the 20th of may the build was infected with a virus that caused it have constant memory errors. So i formated all of my drives and installed a brand new version of windows 10 pro, updated to creators update. In the same day i kept getting random BSODS, when i would use the peek function on full screen applications, but that stopped. I also ran 4 pases of memtest on the 25th ( came out clean).Yesterday on the 26th i was watching youtube on two tabs and then most of the browser tabs crashed along with opera itself (this also happed last week as well) and was gaming for 3 hours and it Blue Screened. So this morning i ran a combination of aida 64 and unigene valley and for some reason the cpu was not being stressed at 100% so i downloaded intel burn test and ran it simultaneously with valley. Ran fine for 20 minutes however on the aida stressed test screen the cpu was not being pinned at 100% and i checked intel burn test and a notification from the app appeared saying that there was system instability and then the system immediately crashed. Are these signs of cpu, memory or motherboard failure? P.S Temps were in the low 60's Here are the specs of the build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Athlon X4 860K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $80.00) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $100.00) Motherboard: ASRock - FM2A88X-ITX+ Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard Memory: Kingston - HyperX Fury Red 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (Purchased For $60.00) Storage: Transcend - SSD370 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $80.00) Storage: Hitachi - Travelstar 5K1000 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 970 4GB G1 Gaming Video Card (Purchased For $369.99) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV ITX Mini ITX Tower Case (Purchased For $80.00) Power Supply: Corsair - Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $50.00) Total: $819.99 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-27 08:16 EDT-0400
  19. Whats going on guys, short and snappy - My motherboard is a Asus Maximus VIII Formula. Simply, i have had two HDD's/SSD's break inside the space of a week whilst using this motherboard. I would really like any help/troubleshooting tips, ideas, knowledge GOD DAMN IT LINUS HELP ME! Okay, scenario 1) 500Gb sandisk II SSD installed, all working fine for about a week then suddenly caput, nothing - nothing in disk management, nothing in bios etc etc. thats gone back to sandisk for them to replace under warranty. No - This SSD did not work/picked up on any other system, i tried two friends systems and was not detected. MEANWHILE: a friend lent me his samsung evo 850 250gb... this worked fine for 2 weeks and is still working fine as i come onto scenario 2 (no im not keeping/ buying his hdd) Scenario 2) took the 3TB hdd from a working system and took the same working system PSU. New PSU installed (thought this may be the issue) all plugged in fine and nothing no spinning from my 3TB HDD which was working before. i cannot feel the platters spinning (no power maybe? mobo fried it?) so, moved it to my system and ASUS mobo and instantly no response from the HDD. Again, no - plugged it into friends systems and nothing. also - cannot feel the HDD spinning also - plugged it back into the original system, with a new psu to see if the old mobo etc would revive it for whatever reason and no - nothing at this point i also now have a 500gb m.2 ssd installed in my system and its working absolutely fine started up first time etc. Just to let you know i have tried it in different ports, and different cables etc. please help me i do not want to keep shelling out ££$$ for hdd's for them to be sub sequentially shot - any ideas on bios? any ideas on psu? any ideas on mobo? is it even possible for the sata port to fry a hdd/ssd? Cheers guys - a lost man.
  20. So, My desktop, Saphira, has some misterious issues where it won't boot without discharging and will chrash when put under extreme loads. so I thought. oke PSU is to blame.SO I borrow my friends 550W Adata PSU and test it out. now, what you should know is that my PSU has two 5v out leads which have to power a GTX560Ti, a WD 1TB hard drive, a Kingston 120GB SSD and a diskdrive. I have the HDD and SSD on one lead and the diskdrive on the other. the GPU power is divided over the two leads. this shoul in theory work just fine. oke so now, what happened is the following: I tested the Adata, (which by the way, didn't solve the issue) and reverted the system to my corsair 600W. when I restarted the system however, It wouldn't boot because there was no boot device available, except for the diskdrive. after some trouble shooting, it turned out that my HDD and SSD had been fried, but the diskdrive and GPU were just fine. Has anybody got a clue what happened? I'd really like to know.
  21. In general, whats the recommendation for how often (in years) you should replace hard drives? Thanks for the help peeps
  22. So I broke the PCB ON my seagate 3tb HDD. I've researched and am pretty sure I can just replace it as long as I swap the bios chip with my original. Hopefully that will work and I can get everything back. Does anyone know if that is the case? Or has done it themselves? Especially the removing and re-soldering the bios chip
  23. Hey guys, I coming to you guys for advice after watching a linus tech tip YT vid. I have what I believe is an issue with my GPU. For the past week, my laptops screen has been plagued with unexplained tearing in games/videos, pixel noise, and constant visual artifacts. The problem intensified the higher my display brightness, and the more taxing my power usage setting (on power saver and low brightness the issues were much less noticeable, but still present).Theses issues immediately persists on each restart, and in safe mode. I did a check and all my drivers looked to be up to date, and 2 days ago clean installed all of them. From online research it sounds like GPU failure, but correct me if I am mistaken. In the past month, the laptop has had these issues and also the problem of the screen remaining black on startup, however these have resolved themselves within the day. I seek advice on how to repair or if necessary replace the card. If the latter is needed, do you have any recommendations for a card that will fit in my laptop? I have had this laptop for almost 3 years and for budget reasons need to wait at least another year before buying or building a replacement. I am a film student, so I use my laptop for adobe programs and video games mostly. Besides the inconvenience of the situation, my Finals are just a bit more than a month away I need to get my rig up and running ASAP. Any input is greatly appreciated, as my free time (and thus ability to quest out the answers I need) is limited. Thank you, -Trevor Potentially relevant specs: MSI GE70 - Laptop 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7-4710HQ 12 GB DDR3L SDRAM NVIDIA Geforce GTX860M 1024 HDD 7200rpm Motherboard: MS-1759
  24. Okay. So I recently swapped my CPU and mother board as well as my graphics card. I have a AMD FX 8350 and a Gigabyte Motherboard. There is no video out put on the board to get into the bios. My graphics card is a EVGA GTX970 SC. My previous card was a Zotac GTX 960 4GB and I tested with it as well. Still no video. Not sure what I should do next.
  25. As many of you know, a company called Backblaze releases their HDD failure rates from their data centres, often publishing them as HDD reliability statistics. Their previous graphs and statistics showed ridiculously high failure rates, particularly for Seagate drives (failure rates of as much as 40+%). This lead to a misconception of Seagate drives as being unreliable becoming wide spread across various forums including LTT. I also encountered people outside of forums who had got the trickle down of misinformation, claiming that Seagate was unreliable, despite not being able to explain why they thought that. The issue with Backblaze's results is the way in which they pick the drives they use and the environments they use the drives in. Basically, they tend to pick the cheapest drives and buy a load of them, shove them in the data centre and just replace them when they fail. While it's somewhat of a questionable business model, it can work out cheaper than buying data centre class drives, so they can pass on savings to their customers. The primary issue of their drive selections is when it comes to their failure rates. The vast majority of the drives in their data centres are desktop class drives, ones that are not designed for data centre conditions whatsoever. They have even had drives that were ripped from external enclosures because they were cheap. The fact that the drives are being used in an environment that is significantly different from their intended purpose makes the results meaningless right away, but it is not the only issue with the statistics. The general lack of information on the drives is a big issue when trying to compare failure rates. They ommit things such as the age of the drives, the proximity of the drives, the temperatures they were running at, the case/rack revision they were mounted in and so on. Without any of this, the results are even more meaningless. Ultimately, these results are like comparing which super cars died when driving them off-road. It's irrelevant to their intended use and if that's pretty much the only information provided, it's invalid anyway. As you can see, the tables they published simply group the drives by model and that's it. No grouping by age, writes/reads quantity, conditions and so on. According to this table, WD tops out the failure rates with 11.31% failure on their WD60EFRX drive. This is a 6TB WD Red drive designed for small home NAS systems, not large datacentre environments. Coming in second with 10.20% failure is the Seagate St4000DX000, which is a 4TB Barracuda drive, which is an internal desktop drive. In terms of raw numbers of failed drives, the Seagate ST4000DM000 was top with 278 drives failing. This is also a 4TB Barracuda drive, but they did use 34,744 of them and they had a total of 3,187,409 drive days run time, more than three times any of the other drives. Needless to say, these results are meaningless for the drives' intended purposes. If a company like WD would allow a drive to have a greater than 11% failure rate, they wouldn't be in business for long. At least Backblaze hasn't tried to make the data look as much of a reliability chart this time round. The fact that they still use the term "reliability stats" in their article is wrong, though. Here's their previous graphs, which caused a lot of misinformation, in case you haven't seen it: Sources: Backblaze eTeknix
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