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  1. Hey guys so my pc windows 11 is getting frozen on the motherboard logo screen with the little dots in a circle when I try to boot it up, although this is a normal issue I have tried all of the normal solutions and not had anything work. I have not added any new hardware to my pc in the last year. the last thing I did was replace the motherboard December 2022 because one of my ram channels was bad but it has been working fine since. It does boot to the bios and I can do some things from there but I cannot get it to load an operating system. Hardware in my pc: MSI b550 mobo ryzen 7 5700g 16gb gskill ram 650w power supply 3070 500gb m.2 with windows 1tb hhd additional storage List of things I have tried: 1. turn it off and back on 2. check bios to make sure all hardware is reporting (it is) 3. restore factory defaults on bios 4.remove cmos battery 5. replace cmos battery 6. remove each stick of ram leaving only 1 8gb stick in the pc 7. removed gpu attempting to boot on integrated 8. created hirens recovery cd (usb) to try to boot from 9. removed each storage device attempting to boot from usb only 10. hold shift to try to force recovery mode every time its the same result. it just freezes even on the usb it still froze. I am loosing my mind here trying to figure out what is causing this. I feel like after all the tests I have done it has to be either the motherboard or cpu but it seems so strange that I can get in to the bios just fine. Any ideas would be awesome!
  2. Ive been trying to reset a newer iPad Pro but it refuses to connect to any Mac or laptop in dfu mode. it'll charge fine. Password has been forgot so I can't see if it connects regularly but it computers will charge it if its not in dfu mode. anyone run into issues like this before? New cables been used, new laptops/Macs, redownloaded iTunes/3uTools, restarted computers, and even updated everything. still nutin. Anyone have any ideas? Personally iv never seen anything like this before.
  3. REMINDER: this thread is not to ask questions about your PC. Please create a NEW thread if you still have issues after going through this thread. So, you've put together your brand new, shining rig. You plug in the power cord and push the button. Nothing happens. What now? The answer depends on what is happening: The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans. Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves) Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual) Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power. If this hasn't solved the problem, check if your PSU isn't dead. To do this, you can follow these steps: Unplug your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with OFF or 0 Unplug every connector coming from your PSU (this is very important) Using a bent paperclip, short out the green wire on the 24 pin header with any of the black wires, like so. If you have a PSU that shuts down its fan under low load, or a PSU that is fanless, connect something small like a hard drive to it. Plug in your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with ON or I If the PSU does NOT power on (the fan/hard drive you connected should start spinning) after following these steps, your PSU is in all likelyhood defective. Request an RMA. If the PSU DOES power on, then the problem is most likely your motherboard. The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST). Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. Try booting the system with only a monitor but no other peripherals connected. (Thanks @Steven Schaefer) Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. When trying the iGPU, if the board has VGA out, try that too instead of just digital out. (Discovered by @evening) Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Remove riser cables between GPU and motherboard. If this solves the issue, try lowering your PCIe version/speed in the bios to PCIe 3 or lower (Thanks @problemsolver) If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means. Try clearing your CMOS. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well ). Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard. If the PC still doesn't POST after this, create a new thread and, as explained here, post IN FULL DETAIL about your problem. Make sure you include the following: System configuration Troubleshooting steps you already did Any additional information that may be relevant. Lastly, if you find any mistakes/grammatical errors, inaccuracies or missing steps in this post, please do post them in a comment so I can fix it. PS: @TheXDS has posted how you can do some more in depth checking of the internal circuitry of you PSU. The only thing you need is a multimeter or potentiometer (if you're oldschool :D). You can find his post at http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/42440-readme-how-to-respond-to-a-no-post-or-no-power-up-situation/?p=4561958
  4. Thanks for checking the thread, any assistance is appreciated! My computer after 3 years in service starts to randomly die when the system is loaded. I have my own workstation that is physically separated from me (stationed at my parents on the other side of the country). Systems contains Ryzen 9 5950x on B550 Aorus Elite. Last week after connecting to it via SSH it randomly decided to die on me. After some time, the computer just randomly turns off (or rather freezes?). It seems that the motherboard is still powered (RGB lights on the water cooler together with the mobo light). When the monitor is plugged there is no visual output. After powering it down My friend was able to clear the CMOS, which solved the problem and the system booted up. Unfortunately, after boot problem still persisted and there was a need for another round of clearing the CMOS. This is unacceptable and to be honest problematic as the computer contains the data that I need to show at the conference next month. I decided to take care of the problem myself but do not know where to start. There was a particular situation in the past where I spilled liquid metal on the motherboard which I believe could impact the motherboard (it was 3 years ago). As the system worked flawlessly for 3 years I believe that some part of the PC just died on me and needs replacement (I suspect the motherboard). I would really appreciate any suggestions on what might be the cause for those problems and which part can be problematic.
  5. I’ve had this new PC around 2 years. Last night, everything froze completely except my mouse and I had to force turn off my PC with the power button. Upon rebooting I got the message: “WARNING: Please back-up your data and replace your hard disk drive. A failure may be imminent and cause unpredictable fail.” I’ve attached a picture to this post. I’ve already done some research and it seems this may be related to a firmware issue (https://www.tomshardware.com/news/samsung-980-pro-ssd-failures-firmware-update). I don’t want to boot with this drive to run the tool and run the risk of writing data and forcing the disk to a read only state permanently. I’m wondering what my next best/safest steps are to backup this failing hard drive so I don’t lose all the data. Here’s what I have to work with: - Existing windows PC with the failing SSD and a 4TB HDD (I don’t want to format that 4TB HDD) - A windows laptop - A 2TB portable drive (Also don’t want to format this. I have about 1.5TB of space left there) - A new 2TB M.2 SSD - A new 256GB flash drive - An M.2 NVME enclosure Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Had my water cooler for 3 years and today it seems to have stopped working and is flashing the RGB lights rapidly pink. Anyone have an idea? User manual is not good (in fact in Hebrew in ASU’s website!!!!). Fans are spinning but CPU is overheating. Help!
  7. I recently purchased a new case for my first build. Fractal Torrent (from a Corsair 4000D) And decided tp move my parts over along with getting a modular power supply. Specs: Windows 10 64x MSI PRO B650 MA Ryzen 5 7600x Dark Rock Pro 4 32gb 16x2 corsair vengeance ram 4060 Thermaltake toughpower gx2 600w (new psu is be quiet pure power 12m 550w modular) Took everything out, put everything in, finagled around with the rgb wires im new to and the tight spaces of the case (im kinda regretting it now) Connected, plugged power and turned on, front fans light up and whirring along with that lil strip but nothing posts. Leds on the board are red & yellow, manual says cpu issue and ram issue. Turn off turn on again for good measure, still the same. Unplug gpu, cooler, cpu & ram and their connectors. Reseat and start up again, still the same. I got no clue what what could be wrong. My best guess is maybe i messed up with the psu connectors but its all in and all in the right slots i think. Also if yall dont mind, case recommendations with that same absurd cooling but more cable management friendly that also are in micro atx size would be nice to hear.
  8. I went to take a nap (left PC on) woke up some hours later to find PC was off, no biggie. GF said we had a brief power outage for like 2 seconds. I turn on the PC and it's stuck on the Asus boot screen with the circle thing spinning to no end. I hold down the power to restart a couple times to go into Safe Mode and when it goes into Repair Mode, I just get a black screen. Weird. I went into the UEFI and everything is fine, my boot drives are all being recognized, at boot my motherboard doesn't give me any indicator lights and a Q-Code status of A0. So that all appears fine but windows doesn't seem to want to take over. I then removed my GPU for good measure. I prepare my Windows 11 Media USB and boot from that. After a short bit it only takes me to a solid light blue screen with nothing else but my cursor. I find this to be odd behavior. Possibly a corrupted file within Windows? Everything is detecting and seem to operate fine. I'm really hoping I don't have to mess with the BIOS. Currently under an ice storm and don't feel comfortable doing that sort of thing with unstable power conditions. My system is: CPU- Intel Core i9-10900K Asus ROG Z490-E Gaming EVGA RTX 3080 G.Skill 3800mhz 16GB X4 Primary boot is Samsung 970 Evo 2TB Please tell me what you think. A total reset would be really annoying.
  9. Problem Description: I was using my pc (few browser tabs, vscode, overwatch 2 update), which i had built around Oct 21 2022. I took a break for around 10 minutes looking away from the screen. When i came back screen was frozen, no sounds came from doing anything so i held the power button down and restarted the computer. When it restarted, the screen was stuck on the MSI logo with a frozen wheel (picture attached). After everything i have tried i cannot get the pc to go past this screen. My parts: Intel Core i5-13600KF 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor be quiet! Pure Rock 2 FX CPU Cooler MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Crucial P2 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive PNY XLR8 Gaming REVEL EPIC-X RGB Dual Fan GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR 8 GB Video Card GameMax RGB Rainbow 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply LG 24GN600-B 24.0" 1920 x 1080 144 Hz Monitor - BIOS version E7D25IMS.192 Things i have tried: Disabled XMP Tried to boot with one stick of RAM at a time Disabled secure boot Cleared CMOS (with battery (waited around 10-15mins) and jumper) Tried to update BIOS using M-Flash with multiple USBs but file was not detected Tried to flash bios using bios flashback button. Used multiple USBs including one with which i had flashed before when first building my system. All usbs were formatted as FAT32 and with MBR. Disconnected all components apart from cpu power and motherboard ATX when doing this tried to boot from windows installation media USB, leads to same screen Wiped my SSD from the bios, tried to boot from windows USB again, same screen Ran NVME self check on the SSD in the bios which came out clean. bought brand new RAM (kingston fury beast ddrr4 2x16GB) and tried to boot with it with no luck bought brand new hard drive, removed my ssd and tried to boot tried to place gpu in a different pcie slot (pcie3) video of what happens: Before i wiped my SSD, when having cleared the CMOS the screen that appeared was instead a Windows logo, but it froze in the same way as the other screen. In some cases the screen also said 'preparing automatic repair'. Before the screen appeared, my keyboard would be on however when the screen froze my keyboard would be off. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as i am about to begin exams and this period will be significantly more difficult without my pc. Thank you.
  10. Hi, recently I dropped my Lenovo Legion 5 Laptop 39,6 cm (15,6 Zoll, 1920x1080, FHD, WideView, 300nits, 165Hz, entspiegelt) Gaming Notebook (AMD Ryzen 7 5800H, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060, Win 10 H). The display seems to be broken. It won't even light up a little. My guess, it's dead. I can still power on the laptop but it shuts itself off after around 15 secs. Do these kind of laptops refuse to boot if no monitor is plugged in/the display is broken? Im currently not at home and can't test with an external monitor via HDMI. It's keeping me restless and I really need to know if there is some hope left. Would appreciate it if someone experienced a similar situation and can give me some insight on my problem. Do you guys think the whole thing is broken or is this a Lenovo thingy, where it won't boot without a display? Thanks in advance
  11. Was just transferring fairly large data amounts (~500GB) from one of our Workstations to a T7 Shield and it got extra extra hot, data speeds slowed drastically, then the drive corrupted on us entirely. After I formatted, checked the drive out and took it on a test run. Ended up not being able to get more than 10MB/s over USB-C connection on a 50gb file transfer, and it ultimately settled on KB/s after a few minutes of transfer when the heat saturation started to set in. So... that leads me to the question; how often does this happen? Anyone else experience T7 Shield failures under heavy load? Is it possible that the rubber protection case does more harm than good? Our small studio has been using T7's for the convenience of grabbing data and sharing with our clients, regardless of our location. What comparable alternatives could we look for? Please share your thoughts Cheers lads have a good day!
  12. Hi , I've had this PC running in this configuration for about a year and a half now. Three weeks ago I was cleaning my PC (using an air compressor ) and decided to repaste the CPU while I was busy. Initially the PC didn't turn on at all but then after I reseated everything It turned on but did not want to post. I didn't really have any time to diagnose this myself so I sent it to a computer repair shop(Matrix Computers here in South Africa). The repair shop told me there must've been a power surge or something (blackouts are also a daily occurrence here) because my one stick of RAM died as well as my one HDD and my SSD was corrupted . They also told me that in their testing they discovered that with different graphics cards , my PC would POST , but also at the same time my Graphics would work perfectly in other PCs(just not my graphics card in my PC). When I got home I plugged in my old graphics card and my PC works perfectly. I also bought more RAM to replace the one stick that died. I sent the GPU in for a warranty claim and when I got the response for the claim , they said after extensive testing on multiple different PCs they concluded that there is nothing wrong with GPU and they sent it back to me. So at this point my thought process was that It can't be the MOBO or CPU(because they work perfectly fine with other GPUs). And it can't be the RAM (I just bought fresh RAM). And it can't be the GPU (because the computer repair shop and the warranty claim team said so ). So I bought a new PSU ,And still no luck. I tried to use my old motherboard aswell but it didn't POST on there either (although that motherboard is 5 years old and may also be faulty) . The old motherboard has the ezdebug light and it said VGA. Most recently I transferred my components into an old case I have (because it has a bios beeper) The BIOS beep is a single short beep . System Specs : Ryzen 5 2600 with the stock AMD cooler Asus Prime A320M-K MSI GeForce GTX 1650s Aero ITX OC edition Corsair cv650 PSU 1*8gig + 1*16 gig corsair vengeance 2666 ddr4 RAM(the 16gig stick is the new one) The GPU I'm currently using is a GTX750ti I was using an Antec VP500 PSU The Old motherboard I used to test was an MSI A320M Pro VD Plus I was just using 2*8gig corsair vengeance RAM but one stick died hence the new 16 gig stick I'm currently running Kubuntu 22.04 but was using Windows 10 22H2 when the issues started What I've Tried : Reseating Everything and making sure all my cables are plugged in correctly Booting with only MOBO , CPU and GPU and One stick of RAM Booting with no peripherals Clearing CMOS Every combination of RAM in the slots New PSU New RAM Different Case Trying an old MOBO Tried a different Monitor Tried different PSU power cords and a different HDMI cable Tried using the DVI instead of HDMI Tried updating the BIOS More Information BIOS beep : One short Beep EZ Debug Light : VGA BIOS Version : 6024 * Just finished a BIOS update to 6202 but it didnt help unfortunately Right now I'm using the exact system with a 750ti so I can get my work done. The MOBO is still under warranty but I want to avoid sending it in if possible because Im writing exams soon and need my PC. Thank you for your time
  13. So now AMD is making an ass of itself as well just like Nvidia just did, changing the embargo dates last minute and Steve from GN thought it was a sloppy mess but Im surprised he didn't see that actually... That part was a very clever move... They clearly waited specifically hear what Nvidia announced the 4060 non-Ti price as. Also the card only has 8GB of VRAM - from the company that is always generous with VRAM... What the Hell... I mean at least the performance is only supposed to compete with the 4060 Non-Ti do maybe 8GB is okay-ish down at this low performance level...? At least they made the right call last minute to drop the price down to $270. Thats extremely cheap for a modern GPU. So at least we have some sort of affordable option now... Even if its performance actually isn't very good... Barely beats the 6600 by less than 10%... Same as Nvidia Yesterday... What the hell is going on here? Why are next gen GPUs failing so hard at low-mid tier? AMD did so well with the flagship 7900-XTX besting the RTX 4080 for a lower price with the XT becoming decent value after the price dropped below $800. Then we have the amazing technical achievement that is the RTX 4090 and at least the 4080 has 16GB of VRAM which is appropriate. I feel bad for everyone who doesn't want to spend multiple thousands of dollars on a top-tier PC because it looks like you guys are just screwed in general now. Lets hope AMD at LEAST has 12GB in the 7600-XT and then 16GB in the 7700 and up. Like Steve said in his video - just wait for July, let these guys battle it out for a while.
  14. Well, Steve from GN set it best in his video: "The RTX 4060-Ti may actually be Dead on Arrival" The card is basically worthless, with less than 10% performance improvement overall over the much cheaper last-gen 3060-Ti; there is absolutely NO reason for ANYONE to buy this card considering the 60 class is supposed to be a good value. And of course because the non-Ti is just a slightly shaved down version, The results compared to last-gen 3060 non-Ti Well very likely be exactly the same. There is only one positive here: efficiency. A bit more powerful than the 3060-Ti at just 140 Watts??? That is certainly impressive, too bad nobody upgrading cares... So far it seems that everything from Nvidia below the 4070-Ti is just a huge disappointment. Welp, grab your 6700-XTs while you still can Nvidia has just officially made a complete ass of itself.
  15. Hey guys, i just finished cleaning my PC and just pluged everything back together. The CPU fan is now not spinning. There is a Continuous Beeep allert for the same. The PC does boot up, went into Bios, Checked Gigabyte Smart fan menu, and it Confirms that CPU fan is at Zero RPM. I changed bios from Manual speeds to full speed and it still does nothing. After leaving bios, the pc does continue to boot up to the Windows Password screen, where i turn it off to avoid overheating. CPU is Ryzen 7 2700x Mobo is Gigabyte AUG x470 CPU fan is AMD's wraith Prism which came with CPU
  16. Hi guys My computer when stood doing nothing, the screen keeps flickering, I've tried a clean install of nvidia drivers using ddu but the problem still persists. I'm using a rtx 3070ti. When running Valley benchmark Mark I get 75c on the clock and 81c on memory And 88.4c on hot spot. Is the memory failing on the gpu?
  17. THANKFULLY, this wasn't my main server but it was a secondary server that I back the main one up to and it needs fixed ASAP. It was a 4U Rosewill server (RSV-L4412U), using a Gigabyte ATX board and a Seasonic power supply. It's been humming along for years with zero problems and then today, the power supply suffered a massive failure. When I shake the ps, there's something lose in there. UPS flipped out, LOUD pop, etc., etc. I put a new ps in the system and turned it back on to see what all was damaged. While Debian 11 is booting, I see this at the top of the screen for a while: 'mpt2sas_cm1: overriding NVDATA EEDPTagMode setting' ...... but eventually the OS loads and I'm at the desktop. Looking in the 'Disks' app, I see that my MDADM array is offline (expected because....) of my 11, 8TB drives, only 8 are showing up. I have two, LSI 9207-8i HBA's installed. Card 1 has 2 SFF cables going to it (and controlling a total of 8 drives) and the 2nd card has 1 SFF cable (controlling 3 drives). At this point you're probably thinking....."well duh, the card with the 3 drives is the culprit" but that's not so. Because the 3 drives that card 2 is controlling.... 2 of the 3 show up. And on the first card, 2 of the 8 drives it's controlling aren't showing up. I pulled the drives from their disk trays and checked them individually in a USB dock on another system and the other Linux box was able to see that they're all part of an array so I'm fairly confident (crossing my finders) that the data on them is intact. After some troubleshooting and sitting down to think, I don't believe the motherboard or HBAs are damaged. It's looking more and more like the back plane in the Rosewill is at fault. I think this because as I mentioned above, one of the HBAs can see 2 of its' 3 drives. If the PCI slots were damaged, I don't think EITHER HBA would work or either HBA would see ANY of their attached drives. Sure, I could do some more swapping of cards/drives but I don't want to spend any more time on it and I need to get the backup system up and running fast. Would appreciate your thoughts on all that but my big question is this..... what's the best way out of this mess? Option 1. $360 - Buy a new Rosewill RSV-L4412U and a new power supply and put everything back together. Option 2. $219+$80+100=$400 Which is a SuperMicro CSE-826+ 3, quiet, replacement fans (FAN-0104L4)+$100 (or so) for the quiet version of a power supply because stock SuperMicro power supplies are...... noisy. (Any problems with 8TB SATA drives with the SAS826A back plane?) Option 3. $600 - Buy a CSE-847 (BPN-SAS3-846EL1 back plane). The reason I was thinking of this route is because I currently have 20'ish 4TB drives in my main server and I was thinking about expanding. I like using 4TB drives to reduce resilver times so I could move my existing motherboard into this new unit and take the guts from the Rosewill case and put them in my existing SC-846 chassis. BUT..... the CPU cooler I'm using in my 24 bay SC-846 won't fit in the SC-847 so I'll need a low profile cooler for my i7 7700K so not a huge deal, just mo' money. So there you have it............ would greatly appreciate any and all comments!
  18. I started having problems with my PC just crashing (NO BSOD) just restarting. The MSI EZ Debug lights showed that there was a cpu issue. Resocketed the CPU and applied fresh thermal paste. I have never had any prior thermal issues, regardless I reapplied thermal paste (Corsair Thermal Paste). Same problem occured. When I'm watching yt videos or chilling on discord or playing "chill games" such as Golf With Your Friends, Minecraft there are no restarts. But when I play csgo or cod: cold war, my pc restarts with a black screen, sometimes I can play for hours with no restarts, and some days I can't play 2mins and my pc resarts. Any suggestions on what to do would be much appreciated! Specs: RYZEN 1300X @ 3.7GHz 1.325v (200MHz overclocked) 8GB RAM DDR4 2400MHz MSI B350m GAMING PRO MB GTX 1660 MSI GAMING X HUNTKEY 750W PSU PS. I ran AIDA64 stress test after reseating CPU and temps are between 55-65c under load, which is expected. I have latest GPU drivers installed as of today(10 Feb 2021). I have reinstalled csgo and cod multiple times. I have tried without an oc and same results (restarts no BSOD). I have swapped RAM slots multiple times. I have reset CMOS.
  19. The parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/AssassinsHero/saved/xhYdHx CPU: Intel i7 10700KF RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x32GB 3600 CL16 MB: Gigabyte H470 Aorus Pro AX Graphics: MSI RX 5700XT 8GB MECH OC The problem: I have a brand new build that I cannot get to post. When we attempt to power it on, the Status LEDs show in the follwing order and durations: CPU - 1 blink for about 1 second; DRAM - 1 blink for about 3.5-4 seconds; CPU - 1 blink for about 1 second; then power off. We cannot get past this point. The steps I have taken: -Verified all connections to the motherboard are secure and in correct place. -Moved RAM between all slots, both in dual channel and with a single stick. -Used 2 different known-to-work RAM sets, one from my current build and another from a friends build that is on Gigabytes Qualified Vendors List (and attempted both in all slots as well) -Used Q-Flash Plush to update the BIOS to latest version -Adding or Removing the Graphics card from the build does not change the Status LED pattern -Removing CPU and/or RAM from the build results in entirely new Status LED patterns (not sure what to draw from that but I tried it anyways) -Called Gigabyte Support, but as of this post, still waiting in a call back que to speak with someone. I do not have another chip to try in the build so I cannot positively rule out CPU issues. I have also done my best to inspect the CPU socket and do not see any obvious signs of damage to the connection points. If there is anyone who knows what this particular pattern of Status LEDs mean, or someone who has additional troubleshooting steps to try, please let me know. Thank you in advance.
  20. Soo to put it simply I opened Minecraft and this is what I saw (look at attachment). I loaded it up and all my other apps are fine like edge and things like paint and chrome but I realised that those apps don't use the mx230 in this laptop and instead use the intel GPU on my I5-1035G1. I only have problems like this when I load a different application then go back to the other one. I took the 1st picture and then after I took it the 2nd picture was what I got after I PrtScr. Is it a fault with the NVidia GPU or the something. I have seen the result only when the GPU is active and is computing a blank image. When I hover over something that pulls info to refresh the Icon if fixes the Icon but breaks after a short time
  21. I wanted to update my system to Windows 11 so I watched a video that said I need to perform the MBR2GPT command in order to update. I entered the command and got an error. (I'm sorry I don't know exactly what it said) Now when I try to start my system I get a message saying "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key" I have 2 drives, a HDD and a NVME SSD with Windows 10 being installed one the NVME drive. This is my primary computer for what I do so any help is greatly appreciated.
  22. Hi, I would like to ask if there is a hope for my drive, Yesterday, I planned to backed my data off my 2TB HDD to a 10TB HDD that I bought for back up (The file system for my drive was exFAT, I didn't know back then that exFAT is prone to corruption) But when I plugged it in, the windows recognized it but I couldn't accessed the data in the drive, the disk became 100% on the task manager and I mistakenly formatted the HDD 2 times, (quick format) the first one to exfat and the second one to NTFS. Can a data recovery service actually recover this hard drive. Because I gave up on recovery softwares, the software just won't load up. Also, when I tried to open disk management, the software freezes when the drive is connected to my laptop. File below is the screenshot of the state of my HDD.
  23. Hi Stupid me. Big time... I just pressed Fn+ins on my K400+ without really knowing what would happen. The PC was supposed to go to sleep according to : https://www.logitech.com/en-ch/manuals/11916 I guess it worked since the PC kind of shut down except the power button LED was blinking. I didn't know how to wake it up. The PC was unresponsive to the K400+ input. So at last I decided to hard reboot it by pressing the power button for more than 4 seconds. The power button stopped blinking (went OFF). Then I pressed it again in order to power up the PC -> nothing Then I switched OFF the PSU and then switched it back ON . Pressed the power button -> nothing I'm a bit concerned now. I can no longer turn ON my PC. What should I do now? Clear the CMOS? That seems radical. Thank you very much in advance for your advice. Best, -a-
  24. Hello! For the last year or so i've been using an external 1tb drive. Recently, I rebooted my PC and the drive was marked as a "RAW" partition, and when I ran chkdsk /f on the drive, it gave the following error: What can I do?
  25. I'm building my first computer and it won't post to my screen: MSI b450m Pro vdh max Ryzen 5600g Evga 500W 2x4Gb crucial 2666MHz When I press the power button the three fans spin up and the cpu ezdebug light immediately comes on, staying on until I power off the system with the switch, which causes all 4 debug lights to flash and then go off. I have tried reseting the cpu twice and checked for bent pins or obstructions, I have tried removing the ram and also putting just one in in both dimma1 and dimma2. I have also tried replugging the cpu power and the 24 pin as well as unplugging the reset button in case it was shorting. I tried clearing the cmos a couple of times by shorting jbat1 and unplugging my pcie WiFi card and sata ssd. None of this made any difference to the ez debug light or it posting and the weirdest thing is that the dram debug light didn't come on even when there were no ram sticks in the system, still just the cpu light. EDIT: The motherboard box says that it is ryzen 5000 ready and the 5600g is in the compatibility list in msi's website
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