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So, my dad has a Cyberpower desktop computer that is about 4 years old i believe, and we have had issues with it for about 2 years now. It used to have a 6700 XT then it bricked, and i had to give him my old GTX 980. Now, it stopped working entirely about a week ago (Would turn on at all, no LEDS, no fan movement, nothing), it looked like it was a power supply issue, so i had him take it in to a local computer store to test it and see if it was the PSU or the MOBO, they said it was the PSU, so he ordered a new one and i installed it yesterday. Got the computer to post, run a game for a few minutes, it looked gold. Then, i wake up this morning and its bricked again. My first thoughts are that its probably the power strip/brick that its running off of, but, no other devices there are having issues, and all are fully functioning. Aside from that, im wondering it is the MOBO or something else i havent considered. Any and all input or thoughts would be very welcomed! Thanks ahead of time y'all

Hey guys so my pc windows 11 is getting frozen on the motherboard logo screen with the little dots in a circle when I try to boot it up, although this is a normal issue I have tried all of the normal solutions and not had anything work. I have not added any new hardware to my pc in the last year. the last thing I did was replace the motherboard December 2022 because one of my ram channels was bad but it has been working fine since. It does boot to the bios and I can do some things from there but I cannot get it to load an operating system. Hardware in my pc: MSI b550 mobo ryzen 7 5700g 16gb gskill ram 650w power supply 3070 500gb m.2 with windows 1tb hhd additional storage List of things I have tried: 1. turn it off and back on 2. check bios to make sure all hardware is reporting (it is) 3. restore factory defaults on bios 4.remove cmos battery 5. replace cmos battery 6. remove each stick of ram leaving only 1 8gb stick in the pc 7. removed gpu attempting to boot on integrated 8. created hirens recovery cd (usb) to try to boot from 9. removed each storage device attempting to boot from usb only 10. hold shift to try to force recovery mode every time its the same result. it just freezes even on the usb it still froze. I am loosing my mind here trying to figure out what is causing this. I feel like after all the tests I have done it has to be either the motherboard or cpu but it seems so strange that I can get in to the bios just fine. Any ideas would be awesome!

Ive been trying to reset a newer iPad Pro but it refuses to connect to any Mac or laptop in dfu mode. it'll charge fine. Password has been forgot so I can't see if it connects regularly but it computers will charge it if its not in dfu mode. anyone run into issues like this before? New cables been used, new laptops/Macs, redownloaded iTunes/3uTools, restarted computers, and even updated everything. still nutin. Anyone have any ideas? Personally iv never seen anything like this before.

Thanks for checking the thread, any assistance is appreciated! My computer after 3 years in service starts to randomly die when the system is loaded. I have my own workstation that is physically separated from me (stationed at my parents on the other side of the country). Systems contains Ryzen 9 5950x on B550 Aorus Elite. Last week after connecting to it via SSH it randomly decided to die on me. After some time, the computer just randomly turns off (or rather freezes?). It seems that the motherboard is still powered (RGB lights on the water cooler together with the mobo light). When the monitor is plugged there is no visual output. After powering it down My friend was able to clear the CMOS, which solved the problem and the system booted up. Unfortunately, after boot problem still persisted and there was a need for another round of clearing the CMOS. This is unacceptable and to be honest problematic as the computer contains the data that I need to show at the conference next month. I decided to take care of the problem myself but do not know where to start. There was a particular situation in the past where I spilled liquid metal on the motherboard which I believe could impact the motherboard (it was 3 years ago). As the system worked flawlessly for 3 years I believe that some part of the PC just died on me and needs replacement (I suspect the motherboard). I would really appreciate any suggestions on what might be the cause for those problems and which part can be problematic.

I’ve had this new PC around 2 years. Last night, everything froze completely except my mouse and I had to force turn off my PC with the power button. Upon rebooting I got the message: “WARNING: Please back-up your data and replace your hard disk drive. A failure may be imminent and cause unpredictable fail.” I’ve attached a picture to this post. I’ve already done some research and it seems this may be related to a firmware issue (https://www.tomshardware.com/news/samsung-980-pro-ssd-failures-firmware-update). I don’t want to boot with this drive to run the tool and run the risk of writing data and forcing the disk to a read only state permanently. I’m wondering what my next best/safest steps are to backup this failing hard drive so I don’t lose all the data. Here’s what I have to work with: - Existing windows PC with the failing SSD and a 4TB HDD (I don’t want to format that 4TB HDD) - A windows laptop - A 2TB portable drive (Also don’t want to format this. I have about 1.5TB of space left there) - A new 2TB M.2 SSD - A new 256GB flash drive - An M.2 NVME enclosure Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Had my water cooler for 3 years and today it seems to have stopped working and is flashing the RGB lights rapidly pink. Anyone have an idea? User manual is not good (in fact in Hebrew in ASU’s website!!!!). Fans are spinning but CPU is overheating. Help!

I recently purchased a new case for my first build. Fractal Torrent (from a Corsair 4000D) And decided tp move my parts over along with getting a modular power supply. Specs: Windows 10 64x MSI PRO B650 MA Ryzen 5 7600x Dark Rock Pro 4 32gb 16x2 corsair vengeance ram 4060 Thermaltake toughpower gx2 600w (new psu is be quiet pure power 12m 550w modular) Took everything out, put everything in, finagled around with the rgb wires im new to and the tight spaces of the case (im kinda regretting it now) Connected, plugged power and turned on, front fans light up and whirring along with that lil strip but nothing posts. Leds on the board are red & yellow, manual says cpu issue and ram issue. Turn off turn on again for good measure, still the same. Unplug gpu, cooler, cpu & ram and their connectors. Reseat and start up again, still the same. I got no clue what what could be wrong. My best guess is maybe i messed up with the psu connectors but its all in and all in the right slots i think. Also if yall dont mind, case recommendations with that same absurd cooling but more cable management friendly that also are in micro atx size would be nice to hear.

I went to take a nap (left PC on) woke up some hours later to find PC was off, no biggie. GF said we had a brief power outage for like 2 seconds. I turn on the PC and it's stuck on the Asus boot screen with the circle thing spinning to no end. I hold down the power to restart a couple times to go into Safe Mode and when it goes into Repair Mode, I just get a black screen. Weird. I went into the UEFI and everything is fine, my boot drives are all being recognized, at boot my motherboard doesn't give me any indicator lights and a Q-Code status of A0. So that all appears fine but windows doesn't seem to want to take over. I then removed my GPU for good measure. I prepare my Windows 11 Media USB and boot from that. After a short bit it only takes me to a solid light blue screen with nothing else but my cursor. I find this to be odd behavior. Possibly a corrupted file within Windows? Everything is detecting and seem to operate fine. I'm really hoping I don't have to mess with the BIOS. Currently under an ice storm and don't feel comfortable doing that sort of thing with unstable power conditions. My system is: CPU- Intel Core i9-10900K Asus ROG Z490-E Gaming EVGA RTX 3080 G.Skill 3800mhz 16GB X4 Primary boot is Samsung 970 Evo 2TB Please tell me what you think. A total reset would be really annoying.

Hi, recently I dropped my Lenovo Legion 5 Laptop 39,6 cm (15,6 Zoll, 1920x1080, FHD, WideView, 300nits, 165Hz, entspiegelt) Gaming Notebook (AMD Ryzen 7 5800H, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060, Win 10 H). The display seems to be broken. It won't even light up a little. My guess, it's dead. I can still power on the laptop but it shuts itself off after around 15 secs. Do these kind of laptops refuse to boot if no monitor is plugged in/the display is broken? Im currently not at home and can't test with an external monitor via HDMI. It's keeping me restless and I really need to know if there is some hope left. Would appreciate it if someone experienced a similar situation and can give me some insight on my problem. Do you guys think the whole thing is broken or is this a Lenovo thingy, where it won't boot without a display? Thanks in advance

Was just transferring fairly large data amounts (~500GB) from one of our Workstations to a T7 Shield and it got extra extra hot, data speeds slowed drastically, then the drive corrupted on us entirely. After I formatted, checked the drive out and took it on a test run. Ended up not being able to get more than 10MB/s over USB-C connection on a 50gb file transfer, and it ultimately settled on KB/s after a few minutes of transfer when the heat saturation started to set in. So... that leads me to the question; how often does this happen? Anyone else experience T7 Shield failures under heavy load? Is it possible that the rubber protection case does more harm than good? Our small studio has been using T7's for the convenience of grabbing data and sharing with our clients, regardless of our location. What comparable alternatives could we look for? Please share your thoughts Cheers lads have a good day!

Hi , I've had this PC running in this configuration for about a year and a half now. Three weeks ago I was cleaning my PC (using an air compressor ) and decided to repaste the CPU while I was busy. Initially the PC didn't turn on at all but then after I reseated everything It turned on but did not want to post. I didn't really have any time to diagnose this myself so I sent it to a computer repair shop(Matrix Computers here in South Africa). The repair shop told me there must've been a power surge or something (blackouts are also a daily occurrence here) because my one stick of RAM died as well as my one HDD and my SSD was corrupted . They also told me that in their testing they discovered that with different graphics cards , my PC would POST , but also at the same time my Graphics would work perfectly in other PCs(just not my graphics card in my PC). When I got home I plugged in my old graphics card and my PC works perfectly. I also bought more RAM to replace the one stick that died. I sent the GPU in for a warranty claim and when I got the response for the claim , they said after extensive testing on multiple different PCs they concluded that there is nothing wrong with GPU and they sent it back to me. So at this point my thought process was that It can't be the MOBO or CPU(because they work perfectly fine with other GPUs). And it can't be the RAM (I just bought fresh RAM). And it can't be the GPU (because the computer repair shop and the warranty claim team said so ). So I bought a new PSU ,And still no luck. I tried to use my old motherboard aswell but it didn't POST on there either (although that motherboard is 5 years old and may also be faulty) . The old motherboard has the ezdebug light and it said VGA. Most recently I transferred my components into an old case I have (because it has a bios beeper) The BIOS beep is a single short beep . System Specs : Ryzen 5 2600 with the stock AMD cooler Asus Prime A320M-K MSI GeForce GTX 1650s Aero ITX OC edition Corsair cv650 PSU 1*8gig + 1*16 gig corsair vengeance 2666 ddr4 RAM(the 16gig stick is the new one) The GPU I'm currently using is a GTX750ti I was using an Antec VP500 PSU The Old motherboard I used to test was an MSI A320M Pro VD Plus I was just using 2*8gig corsair vengeance RAM but one stick died hence the new 16 gig stick I'm currently running Kubuntu 22.04 but was using Windows 10 22H2 when the issues started What I've Tried : Reseating Everything and making sure all my cables are plugged in correctly Booting with only MOBO , CPU and GPU and One stick of RAM Booting with no peripherals Clearing CMOS Every combination of RAM in the slots New PSU New RAM Different Case Trying an old MOBO Tried a different Monitor Tried different PSU power cords and a different HDMI cable Tried using the DVI instead of HDMI Tried updating the BIOS More Information BIOS beep : One short Beep EZ Debug Light : VGA BIOS Version : 6024 * Just finished a BIOS update to 6202 but it didnt help unfortunately Right now I'm using the exact system with a 750ti so I can get my work done. The MOBO is still under warranty but I want to avoid sending it in if possible because Im writing exams soon and need my PC. Thank you for your time

So now AMD is making an ass of itself as well just like Nvidia just did, changing the embargo dates last minute and Steve from GN thought it was a sloppy mess but Im surprised he didn't see that actually... That part was a very clever move... They clearly waited specifically hear what Nvidia announced the 4060 non-Ti price as. Also the card only has 8GB of VRAM - from the company that is always generous with VRAM... What the Hell... I mean at least the performance is only supposed to compete with the 4060 Non-Ti do maybe 8GB is okay-ish down at this low performance level...? At least they made the right call last minute to drop the price down to $270. Thats extremely cheap for a modern GPU. So at least we have some sort of affordable option now... Even if its performance actually isn't very good... Barely beats the 6600 by less than 10%... Same as Nvidia Yesterday... What the hell is going on here? Why are next gen GPUs failing so hard at low-mid tier? AMD did so well with the flagship 7900-XTX besting the RTX 4080 for a lower price with the XT becoming decent value after the price dropped below $800. Then we have the amazing technical achievement that is the RTX 4090 and at least the 4080 has 16GB of VRAM which is appropriate. I feel bad for everyone who doesn't want to spend multiple thousands of dollars on a top-tier PC because it looks like you guys are just screwed in general now. Lets hope AMD at LEAST has 12GB in the 7600-XT and then 16GB in the 7700 and up. Like Steve said in his video - just wait for July, let these guys battle it out for a while.

Well, Steve from GN set it best in his video: "The RTX 4060-Ti may actually be Dead on Arrival" The card is basically worthless, with less than 10% performance improvement overall over the much cheaper last-gen 3060-Ti; there is absolutely NO reason for ANYONE to buy this card considering the 60 class is supposed to be a good value. And of course because the non-Ti is just a slightly shaved down version, The results compared to last-gen 3060 non-Ti Well very likely be exactly the same. There is only one positive here: efficiency. A bit more powerful than the 3060-Ti at just 140 Watts??? That is certainly impressive, too bad nobody upgrading cares... So far it seems that everything from Nvidia below the 4070-Ti is just a huge disappointment. Welp, grab your 6700-XTs while you still can Nvidia has just officially made a complete ass of itself.

Hey guys, i just finished cleaning my PC and just pluged everything back together. The CPU fan is now not spinning. There is a Continuous Beeep allert for the same. The PC does boot up, went into Bios, Checked Gigabyte Smart fan menu, and it Confirms that CPU fan is at Zero RPM. I changed bios from Manual speeds to full speed and it still does nothing. After leaving bios, the pc does continue to boot up to the Windows Password screen, where i turn it off to avoid overheating. CPU is Ryzen 7 2700x Mobo is Gigabyte AUG x470 CPU fan is AMD's wraith Prism which came with CPU

Hi guys My computer when stood doing nothing, the screen keeps flickering, I've tried a clean install of nvidia drivers using ddu but the problem still persists. I'm using a rtx 3070ti. When running Valley benchmark Mark I get 75c on the clock and 81c on memory And 88.4c on hot spot. Is the memory failing on the gpu?

THANKFULLY, this wasn't my main server but it was a secondary server that I back the main one up to and it needs fixed ASAP. It was a 4U Rosewill server (RSV-L4412U), using a Gigabyte ATX board and a Seasonic power supply. It's been humming along for years with zero problems and then today, the power supply suffered a massive failure. When I shake the ps, there's something lose in there. UPS flipped out, LOUD pop, etc., etc. I put a new ps in the system and turned it back on to see what all was damaged. While Debian 11 is booting, I see this at the top of the screen for a while: 'mpt2sas_cm1: overriding NVDATA EEDPTagMode setting' ...... but eventually the OS loads and I'm at the desktop. Looking in the 'Disks' app, I see that my MDADM array is offline (expected because....) of my 11, 8TB drives, only 8 are showing up. I have two, LSI 9207-8i HBA's installed. Card 1 has 2 SFF cables going to it (and controlling a total of 8 drives) and the 2nd card has 1 SFF cable (controlling 3 drives). At this point you're probably thinking....."well duh, the card with the 3 drives is the culprit" but that's not so. Because the 3 drives that card 2 is controlling.... 2 of the 3 show up. And on the first card, 2 of the 8 drives it's controlling aren't showing up. I pulled the drives from their disk trays and checked them individually in a USB dock on another system and the other Linux box was able to see that they're all part of an array so I'm fairly confident (crossing my finders) that the data on them is intact. After some troubleshooting and sitting down to think, I don't believe the motherboard or HBAs are damaged. It's looking more and more like the back plane in the Rosewill is at fault. I think this because as I mentioned above, one of the HBAs can see 2 of its' 3 drives. If the PCI slots were damaged, I don't think EITHER HBA would work or either HBA would see ANY of their attached drives. Sure, I could do some more swapping of cards/drives but I don't want to spend any more time on it and I need to get the backup system up and running fast. Would appreciate your thoughts on all that but my big question is this..... what's the best way out of this mess? Option 1. $360 - Buy a new Rosewill RSV-L4412U and a new power supply and put everything back together. Option 2. $219+$80+100=$400 Which is a SuperMicro CSE-826+ 3, quiet, replacement fans (FAN-0104L4)+$100 (or so) for the quiet version of a power supply because stock SuperMicro power supplies are...... noisy. (Any problems with 8TB SATA drives with the SAS826A back plane?) Option 3. $600 - Buy a CSE-847 (BPN-SAS3-846EL1 back plane). The reason I was thinking of this route is because I currently have 20'ish 4TB drives in my main server and I was thinking about expanding. I like using 4TB drives to reduce resilver times so I could move my existing motherboard into this new unit and take the guts from the Rosewill case and put them in my existing SC-846 chassis. BUT..... the CPU cooler I'm using in my 24 bay SC-846 won't fit in the SC-847 so I'll need a low profile cooler for my i7 7700K so not a huge deal, just mo' money. So there you have it............ would greatly appreciate any and all comments!

I bike to school everyday, usually with my laptop in the backpack. since last month my win10 laptop (lenovo yoga 7i ryzen5800U) would randomly not boot. The laptop is pretty cold but not freezing cold. Toronto has been about 0 to -5 celsius or 20~30 fahrenheit, and my back is very warm when biking so i don't think laptop ever gets subzero or any condensation. Error is "boot drive not found." While i wait, since I can still go into the bios, I would fiddle with the bios, and about 3 to 10 min later laptop will boot. I'm not sure whether getting warmer in classroom or me resetting the bios is the cause of fix. I have unplug and plug back the ssd and the issue still persists today i decided to check on the ssd, and CrystalDiskInfo gave a big red error BAD 95% Critical warning 0000000000000004 What does all this mean? I'm backing up right now. Should I buy a new SSD asap? any help is greatly appreciated

I don’t know if troubleshooting is the right section for this post, as the PC is now working properly. But I would like to understand what happened to know if I need to take further action to make sure that the problem is solved. So.. this is the story: The PC was working, but one day as I was replacing a panel of the case I heard a suspicious noise. I then immediately began to move the PC in every possible direction in an attempt to drop what seemed, from the noise, to be a screw. The problem is that even though I tried everything, I couldn’t hear any sound and after a while I started to believe that the noise wasn’t a screw (don't make my same mistake). When I finished what I was doing and I closed the case, attached the cables and turned on the PC, the motherboard started to fail the POST phase while remaining powered on, but the CPU debug led was also on (CPU not detected or faulty). I tried to reboot the PC several times, remove the graphics card and even reset the BIOS, but nothing, it didn’t want to have a successful POST. I then decided to remove the heatsink and reseat the CPU, and it is at that moment that I noticed the screw (photo attached), perfectly stuck between an IC and the heatsink of the m2 slots. I removed the screw (checking that there was no sign of physical damage to the motherboard, both front and back, and there wasn't.), reseated the CPU, reassembled everything and then... the PC was perfectly working again. After that, I started to check that everything was working, I tried all the USB ports, audio jacks, wi-fi antenna.. I ran stress tests with OCCT of CPU, RAM, GPU, VRAM, PSU and checked the functionality of the SSD in the bios (nvme device self test). Everything is perfect, no errors are detected in any of the components, watts, volts, everything looks perfectly normal; as if nothing had happened. You can see from the pictures the position of the screw, and then how it was after I removed it (also the back side). The darker stains on the motherboard were already there before and are present everywhere, I think it’s part of the painting. Any chance this wasn’t even a short circuit? Could it be that moving the PC a lot and beating it (to try to bring out the "hypothetical" screw) has moved the CPU in the socket causing the problem? (I reseated the CPU and removed the screw at the same time, so I can’t know directly what solved the problem) The PC stayed on until I shut it down, it stayed on even for minutes. As far as I know if there is a short circuit the PC tends to turn off almost immediately, right? What do you think? Maybe some of you can deduce from the photos why nothing was fried . I’d like to have your opinion on this, and I’d like to know if there’s anything else I should do. Thanks for your attention to this post

Problem Description: I was using my pc (few browser tabs, vscode, overwatch 2 update), which i had built around Oct 21 2022. I took a break for around 10 minutes looking away from the screen. When i came back screen was frozen, no sounds came from doing anything so i held the power button down and restarted the computer. When it restarted, the screen was stuck on the MSI logo with a frozen wheel (picture attached). After everything i have tried i cannot get the pc to go past this screen. My parts: Intel Core i5-13600KF 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor be quiet! Pure Rock 2 FX CPU Cooler MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Crucial P2 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive PNY XLR8 Gaming REVEL EPIC-X RGB Dual Fan GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR 8 GB Video Card GameMax RGB Rainbow 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply LG 24GN600-B 24.0" 1920 x 1080 144 Hz Monitor - BIOS version E7D25IMS.192 Things i have tried: Disabled XMP Tried to boot with one stick of RAM at a time Disabled secure boot Cleared CMOS (with battery (waited around 10-15mins) and jumper) Tried to update BIOS using M-Flash with multiple USBs but file was not detected Tried to flash bios using bios flashback button. Used multiple USBs including one with which i had flashed before when first building my system. All usbs were formatted as FAT32 and with MBR. Disconnected all components apart from cpu power and motherboard ATX when doing this tried to boot from windows installation media USB, leads to same screen Wiped my SSD from the bios, tried to boot from windows USB again, same screen Ran NVME self check on the SSD in the bios which came out clean. bought brand new RAM (kingston fury beast ddrr4 2x16GB) and tried to boot with it with no luck bought brand new hard drive, removed my ssd and tried to boot tried to place gpu in a different pcie slot (pcie3) video of what happens: Before i wiped my SSD, when having cleared the CMOS the screen that appeared was instead a Windows logo, but it froze in the same way as the other screen. In some cases the screen also said 'preparing automatic repair'. Before the screen appeared, my keyboard would be on however when the screen froze my keyboard would be off. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as i am about to begin exams and this period will be significantly more difficult without my pc. Thank you.

So I just finished my new PC and it work fine except for one major issue. Sometimes I'll just be playing a game then my screen glitches out and any audio that was playing repeats very quickly kind of like a dndndndndndnd sound if that makes sense. When my screen glitches out it'll turn mostly black but some colors that I had on my screen before will stand out but be a different color. For example, is there was a yellow smiley face on my screen and then my screen bugged out, the smiley face would turn orange, but the rest of my screen would be black. Does anyone have any idea why this could be happening? My PC is never under a very heavy load when it happens, and I have plenty of cooling. I suspect it could be an issue with my GPU because I had my friend help me install a driver for it when I finished the PC and I was thinking maybe he did something wrong? Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated. Here are my specs for anyone who is wondering: Ryzen 7 5800x 32 gigs 4000mhz RAM RTX 3060 (12 gigs) 750w 80+ bronze PSU

To make a long story short my grandmas PC had it's nvme disk fail after only having a total of 5.5TB of data ever written to it. She had it about 3 years and only even used it to store Windows and a few basic programs. Anyways I since replaced the drive with a better one and because there was some data loss I figured I'd grab her a 1TB SATA SSD and use it to make regulars backups of her data so that if in the event that her boot disk ever dies again there will be a copy of it on another disk. However after replacing the main boot drive for some reason her computer won't detect any SATA devices at all. Now I'm generally pretty good with computers and am rarely ever stumped however i can't figure out why this is happening. At first I thought maybe it was a bad connection. I double checked all the power and data connections and I'm convinced they are fine. If I plug in the power cable for example I can hear her optical drive power up and seek. I can also open the disc trap no problem. So I ruled out the power cable. Next I checked the SATA data connections. I used an old SATA cable from her previous computer because I was lazy but I thought maybe the cable had failed so i replaced it with some brand new cables and nothing. Both the optical drive and SATA SSD won't show up. I tried different SATA ports too and nothing. I also updated the BIOS and nothing. I loaded optimized defaults and nothing. In the BIOS it says the SATA controller is enabled and in AHCI mode but nothing shows up under the SATA ports (ie: no connected devices). I was under the impression that when the drives didn't show up in Windows that it may have been related to not having installed the SATA drivers however I've never seen this on a modern PC as almost all onboard SATA controllers are supported out of the box. I also connected the SATA SSD in question to my main PC and it showed up and formatted just fine so I know the disk works. Also 2 SATA controllers show up in Windows so it makes me think that the SATA controllers are working just fine unless they aren't but they're still reported to the system. I'm kind of out of things to try at this point so i figured I'd ask here and see if anyone has any ideas. I'm probably just gonna go out and buy her a SATA HBA card and slap it in because I don't know what else to try. Also the motherboard is a ASUS Prime B450M-A rev 1.01 for anyone who is curious. Also my grandma doesn't know much about computers so I really doubt she did anything to it that would damage it. I'm pretty sure it just sat in the same place since the day I set it up for her. theres also like no dust in it since it's just a basic APU based system running a 3200G. Anyone know of any good SATA 6gbps HBA cards on the cheap?

This is a bit of a weird question. On SuperUser, someone inserted RAM while the computer was turned on and is now paranoid in that the system is compromised. To my knowledge, if you insert the memory, and the computer boots up normally, everything is fine. People respond however that this is not the case, and that the memory can degrade by this action to such extend that all appears to work fine, but may cause system problems in just months of time rather than years. I can't find anything online in terms of research or tests. Are there people here who have first-hand experience with these failures or are these tell-tale stories? I know the video from LTT where they partnered with ElectroBOOM and used an electrogun in an attempt to destroy the ram, and the ram seemed fine. Of course, they did not test the ram after months of time, which is what this question is about. Does anyone know? Any links? The superuser question can be found here: https://superuser.com/questions/1745217/i-accidentally-inserted-ram-while-pc-was-booting-up-worst-case-scenario/1745220#1745220

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X @ 4.9GHz CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H100i RGB Pro XT Motherboard: ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4x8gb) GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT SE Sapphire NITRO+ 16GB Here are my steps I have taken: - Enabled the default D.O.C.P. profile [PC Fails to Boot] - Did the above BUT manually set it to 3600MHz [PC Fails to Boot] - Disabled D.O.C.P. putting to "Auto" and Manually adjust memory speed to 3600MHz [PC Fails to Boot] - Updated BIOS to lasted BIOS [Same issue still occurs. Conclusion: I cannot get my RAM to reach 3600MHz or Higher no matter what I do. Everything MUST RUN on Auto or it doesn't work at all. I am not understanding what I am doing wrong or what could be the problem. My computer runs like a dream, but the memory not running 3600MHz bugs me.

Hello! Sorry if anyone has had this issue before, but this is new to me, and I am stumped. My motherboard did not shut down when I shut down my system, requiring me to hold down the power button to shut it off after about 5 minutes of waiting. On bootup, I get an error code of HDD 02 post failure. It then goes into bios where you do not see either of the nvme drives on the boot options, but you do see them in the nvme configuration page. I have taken both out and replaced them with an ssd, and I get the same code. Again, like with the nvme drives, in the bios the ssd did not show on boot options either, but it did show in the hdd/ssd information page. When I use a usb to try to boot to windows to reinstall, it would show both the nvme drives, and also the ssd when I had that one only installed. When I would try to install windows it would freeze no matter what drive I had in, typically on step 2, getting files ready for installation. I have tried flashing an older bios version to see if that would help, as well as flashing the current bios version multiple times to no improvement. I have tried using different display port cables, only having nothing but a mouse and keyboard plugged in with no other devices connected. I have even went as far as purchasing a new mobo to see if it was mine, but the outcome has been the same. The only difference is on the initial boot of the new motherboard, it DID show both nvme drives. When I went to install windows, it froze again, and on reboot both drives were missing from the boot options again. System specs are below. If anyone has any idea what could be the issue, it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! System: AMD 5900X Asus Rog Crosshair VIII Formula G.Skill 32GB TridentZ Ram Evga Supernova 1000 G+ Evga 1080 Ti FTW3 Replaced mobo - Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite

KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE BSOD BSOD dumps <-- link to the dumps and mini dumps I have collected but also attached the minidumps because they small enough and i think the link to onedrive wont work after a while OS - Windows 10 x64 What OS was originaly installed on the system? - Windows 10 Age of system - Built in may 2018 Age of OS installation - have you re-installed the OS?: I reinstalled windows about 2 week ago CPU model: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Video Card model: Geforce 1070ti MotherBoard - ASUS STRIX B350-F Gaming ATX AM4 Power Supply - EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Desktop I honestly have no idea what to do I have checked the RAM with memtest86 reinstalled windows 2 times DDU'd my graphics drivers. Bunch of scans for malware with malwarebytes sfc scannow and CHKDSK tests and nothing wrong I literally have no idea what could possibly be wrong and idk how to read the dumps so this is my last stand to understand wtf is wrong 061522-14796-01.dmp 070622-12328-01.dmp 070922-18156-01.dmp 071222-12000-01.dmp