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I have faced the same issue. I have tried to upload the bin file and upgrade the firmware version. Process End up with My Hardware version - Archer MR200 v4 00000001 current firmware version - 1.0.0 0.9.1 v0001.0 Build 190603 Rel.60023n I need to upgrade the firmware to the newest one of V4 that was Published on 2020-06-28. URL that I have downloaded the firmware - https://www.tp-link.com/in/support/download/archer-mr200/v4/#Firmware Reason for upgrading the firmware - after I changed the wifi access password and router, it will successfully change to a new one. But when I trying to reboot the router it blinks power led only. that is the issue. after I have reset the router using the reset button and router worked finely. any one can help??
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I couldnt find a post talking about exactly what to do in this situation: Mobo: msi pro z690 a ddr4 Cpu: 12700k My brothers CPU was overheating badly (i got so far as to try lapping the IHS) so the next step i tried was updating the bios . Here's exactly what i did: -DL the bios update to fat32 8gb drive -Didnt clear CMOS (stupid, i know, its my first time) but it was cleared recently (only had XmP enabled) -Had thumb drive inserted on top of pc case (not in bios flash port) probably a mistake? -followed guide saying to enter bios and click bios flash -found the drive and file, clicked update and sat back. -it updated and never booted again. The pc is on but theres no signal. The mobo has a flash button on the back and a flash drive port. Should i shut-off, clear CMOS, instert drive into mobo and hit the flash button? Thanks, Zach
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Hey guys after installing windows 11 22h2 i can no longer enable dolby atmos though the app or spacial audio it was working perfectly fine before the update, i have Logitec g pro x wireless headphones. i tried to uninstall and reinstall the Dolby access app, plugged the adapter in to different usb ports, uninstalled and reinstalled the sound drivers, tried troubleshooting nothing works any idea what went wrong? Do we have to wait for a new update of the sound drive or rolling back is the inly option? EDIT: I have forced uninstalled audio drivers from device manager and let the windows to install generic hd audio drivers solved the problem
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- windows
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Hi everyone, Recently I've decided to update the bios on my PC, from F2 (stock) to the latest one (F63a I think it was). The process went really straight forward - I used the gigabyte app to update it from an USB stick, and no issues were encountered until the very end when I was asked to reboot my pc for the update to take effect. When the PC started again, it simply did not boot. All the fans are spinning on a high RPM then it lowers, then again rises to a high RPM then lowers again and so on, in a continuous loop. The things I've tried so far, without any success: 1. Removing and re-introducing the CMOS battery 2. Shorting the CMOS pins several times 3.Moving each of the 2x8 RAM modules on each and every one of the 4 RAM slots, then booting with single/both modules installed 4. Replacing the motherboard with a Ggigabyte Aorus B450 PRO 5. Removing the GPU and trying to boot using the hdmi port on the motherboard Could've the bios update somehow bricked my CPU, or maybe both of the RAM modules? because even if the process failed somehow and the motherboard got bricked, this should've not have happened on the new one. My specs are: MB: Gigabyte Aorus B450M CPU: AMD Ryzen 2700 RAM: 2x8 Corsair Vengeance DDR4 at 3000 mhz GPU: Radeon RX 5700 XT
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- cpu
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Hello Guys, Yesterday night the App Center of Gigabyte pointed out a BIOS Update for my motherboard, which is X570 UD rev 1.0. I followed all the steps my machine did and restarted, however I found this discrepancies (picture 1) shows BIOS B21 if I rest my mouse on it, but if I open it it show the current version is actually F20 (picture 2). Their support website shows different versions, any tip of whether or not I should do it manually? If yes, which is a good version? My CPU is AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3rd Gen CPU-Z Double checked it.
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I have faced the same issue. I have tried to upload the bin file and upgrade the firmware version. Process End up with " Error code: 4503 The uploaded file was not accepted." My Hardware version - Archer MR200 v4 00000001 current firmware version - 1.0.0 0.9.1 v0001.0 Build 190603 Rel.60023n I need to upgrade the firmware to the newest one of V4 that was Published on 2020-06-28. URL that I have downloaded the firmware - https://www.tp-link.com/in/support/download/archer-mr200/v4/#Firmware Reason for upgrading the firmware - after I changed the wifi access password and router, it will successfully change to a new one. But when I trying to reboot the router it blinks power led only. that is the issue. after I have reset the router using the reset button and router worked finely. any one can help??
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Hi all, Need help for to fix my mother board if it can be fixed. My setup is as follows; Mobo: MSI H97M-G43 GPU: MSI GTX 1660 Super Aero ITX OC CPU: Intel i5-4460 PSU: Raven 500W My first GPU is MSI GTX 960 OC but it was now dead after several years of using it so I bought new GPU which is stated above. After installing the MSI GTX 1660, my PC is restarting/shutdown while playing mid games. I checked my PC using MeTest86+ and got 100% pass rate and 0 errors. I also checked my PSU if the power/voltage is enough and it seems no problem. Now, my last option was to Update BIOS. The currently installed BIOS version in my mobo is 2.6 7924 and the latest BIOS in the MSI website for my mobo is 2.B 7924 which includes "Improved VGA compatibility". But after the update my mobo won't start at all and I think I made it bricked.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzYriLeHsqo&feature=youtu.be GPU: Asus RTX 2080super evo edition CPU: i7-8700K Motherboard: ASUS z390-f RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V series 16gb, X.m.p profile 1 PSU: Corsair Rm750x Storage: 970 evo nVme Operating System & Version: Windows 10, Version 1909 GPU Drivers: Latest driver, clean installed 3 times. Monitor: Benq X2546, dyac turned off Description of Problem: I just Built this pc two days ago, I know I installed everything correctly including the all the drivers but when I run csgo these black lines constantly flash across my screen and I have know Idea what is causing them. Is this screen tearing or a failed gpu; I have also yet to test this on another games since I believe the problem to be when I get more than 200 frames and I don't think I have any other games that I can keep stable at more than 200 fps Another issue: cpu benchmark stopped registering my gpu https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/26351442 https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/26435303 Troubleshooting: Switched ports/cable, restarted PC, reinstalled gpu itself and Reinstalled all drivers. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
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I am not able to install patch updates since january...keeps getting the error 0x80070003 I tried every solution from sfc scan to update reset components this is an acer laptop 2015 with old pentium quad core processor Note: i use dual boot with 8.1 ...secure boot disabled(enabled didn't work) I also tried fresh installing but didn't work... Note: I used macrium reflect to restore both os images and I also recently tried to install windows 7 by converting the disk to MBR without data loss.... Then i returned to GPT and restored both windows 10 and 8.1...with macrium reflect (never had problem before though) PLEASE SOMEONE HELP.!!!
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- windows 10
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While this relates to Windows 10 idk if it should go here or in the Windows 10 section Ok, so I have this old laptop that I most likely won't upgrade for a while. I enjoy the massive port selection and docking among many other things. Anyway, currently it is stuck on 1809. EVERY FUCKING DAY without fail windows tell me there is important updates that need to be installed and only gives me the option to restart now, restart tonight, or schedule a restart. I have to keep scheduling a restart and then just turning off the schedule everyday. If that wasn't annoying enough, recently it has decided TO REMOVE THE GOD DAMN SCHEDULE button! So I literally can't do shit, I can restart now or have it restart later that night. Now you might say 'well than just update it' that's where the problem is, every time it tries to apply the update the same shit happens: it restarts some time i'm not there without my knowledge does some shit that I never see I come back and all the screens are black The only thing I can do is press the power button, once I press it it immediately turns off (no holding the button, no shutdown screen) I turn it back on and wait another 20-30 minutes just for it reboot AGAIN and then tell me 'there was a problem installing updates' like NO SHIT, maybe if the update didn't work the first 4 FUCKING TIMES you tried it probably isn't going to work the 5th time... I have nothing but problems like this with windows 10, I have never been able to keep a single windows install for a year or longer, every few months I need to reinstall it (and I guess i'm going to have to re-install it AGAIN). And for everyone who always comes back with the argument that it's the eGPU, or it's insert some other jank thing I have with my setup I have problems on every device, my mom's perfectly normal Toshiba satellite will constantly lock files and you have to go into properties and unlock the file. It also doesn't think half the built in apps are installed, photos (the windows media viewer app) doesn't open on hers even though it's all updated and everything. My old normal desktop (FX-4350 w/ GTX 960) had just as many problems, it's not because of the eGPU it's because windows 10 is fucking awful. Even before that, my old toshiba satellite had several problems as well....
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- windows 10
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Long story short, in hopes of reaching higher frequency, I set the ram timings to max and then thought of decreasing them step by step to get the lowest timings and highest frequency. Now pc won't boot up, even after removing and reinserting cmos battery. The fans spin at max speed and pc doesn't 'bootloop' like it used to after a failed oc attempt. One thing I observed that when i press the power button just after reinserting the battery, led's in fans get dimmer for a second then become bright again, otherwise they remain brightest throughout. Pls help me out and thanks.
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So when I turn on or wake up my computer after an extended period, the screen will wake up for a half second and then turns black. Not off, just black. it used to be that I could turn the monitor off then on again, and the display would work again. But eventually it required doing so more and more times. Till now it simply will not stay. I recently had to replace my motherboard with a refurbished one from China since it’s so old. (Currently at work, so can’t remember what exactly it is.) So I was wondering if maybe that had something to do with it. But that being said, the monitor itself is probably 7-8 years old. Flatscreen Dell monitor, pretty standard. I might be forgetting something, but running out of lunch break here. Any help would be appreciated. Hopefully it’s just an old monitor that needs replaced kind of issue.
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I have a build that I am simply upgrading from an i3-8100 with one of the super cheap H310M motherboards to an MSI B450M Gaming Plus and a Ryzen 5 3600. I have an EVGA 1060 6GB GPU, 16GB of RAM, an 80+ Bronze 450w PSU, and a typical samsung 850 500GB SSD. Like I said, I am just moving these parts from one motherboard to another and upgrading the CPU. Where I currently stand, the motherboard has been flashed to the latest version of its MS-7B87 BIOS with a newly formatted FAT32 16GB thumb drive with the file being renamed to MSI.ROM as stated in the manual. When I press the power button, the CPU fan, the two case fans, and the GPU fan turns on and stays on - except that the GPU fan turns off and on. The problem is that I cannot get the monitor to receive signal. When I plug in things such as my mouse, they power up. The EZ Debug light begins on the CPU and then quickly turns off before it switches to the VGA for a few moments longer in length. After that, it settles on the BOOT LED and stays on. What recommendations do you have? EDIT: I powered it off and on again and this time the LEDs cycled through the CPU, VGA, BOOT options three or four times before turning off entirely. However, the problem still persists. No signal to my monitor, which I have tested on another machine and have verified that the monitor and its cords are working normally.
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My pc is failing to boot into os after bios menu. I have restarted many times, and i get a blank screen that says; "Please insert a boot media" i have created a video that shows my problem: - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-quT_Jh2nljC-v9oTyDqlwesPuXhJbuz/view?usp=sharing
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I bought a used computer advertised as "does not start, fans come on". The seller said it sat in his closet for maybe 2 years. Msi z97 mate, i7 4790k. I, however, fiddled around with it until it worked, then installed windows, but didnt install antivirus. I was downloading things, installed steam, drl racing, then during smartpropoplus, computer froze. It started several times and froze while trying to figure it out, and now basically never starts, the psu and cpu fan blink on then everything dies, and it repeats unless I interrupt it for maybe a minute or longer. Maybe the motherboard failed as the seller believed it had, and because it sat it had some life,,, maybe i got a virus. I swapped basically all of the other parts to other machines, (even the cpu into an all-in-one lenovo), and besides 1 bad ram card, all parts worked . (I must have broken that ram card, but the computer behaves the same with other ram than the ones it came with) A dang motherboard is far away (to actually test a build of all of these parts except a motherboard). What else can I do for confidence?? What if its a virus? Some caps look worn, so perhaps intermittent problems came from them,,, but smartpropoplus might not be safe, although i have it on other computers, ... i dont really want to just start buying motherboards for 100 plus without knowing its my only real option,,, replacing caps, though, i should have a spare motherboard anyway, chances of failure are probably high. I dont even know how to buy caps.
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Was playing some steam games on my pc last night, and just after closing out of one and starting some web browsing I hear one of my 3 hdd's start to spin up, then stop, then spin up etc, and became worried as they're reasonably old. I checked I could open each drive in file explorer then decided to restart. After windows update did it's thing it restarted, and the same noise occured but with a lot of clicking and I decided my drive must have died. I restarted it again later and it made the same spinning up and down sound, and after about 1 min it stopped and windows booted, however without the HDD visible. Ive tried this since and no luck, however no clicking since either. Is this a sign that my HDD is gone for good, or is there hope to getting anything back? Haven't found much about this issue elsewhere so any hp appreciated, thanks
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So I went to turn on my computer today and I just get a message that says press the F2 or delete key to enter the UEFI bios but pressing those keys does nothing. Nothing I press does anything. I've tried all buttons on my Asus Maximus Hero X wifi motherboard and still get the same error. After taking out my Samsung 960 Evo nvme boot drive I was able to get into the bios and find my other drives. But if I put the nvme drive back in I get the same error. Even tried a different nvme slot. Is there any hope of recovering any of the data on it without having to send it into a recovery center? Or is there something else you think I could try?
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I put together a new pc yesterday and everything booted up fine, posted, and I installed windows. As I was installing ASRock RGB LED, the system shut down completely and no longer boots. I will note, the RGB light on the board was red while just sitting plugged in (not booted up). Now that same light is a yellowish-green and if I hold down the power button the system does not boot and that light disappears, and when I let up the light reappears. I have the same wiring as before and everything was powered properly. I might also add that I tested the PSU with a paperclip and it is fully functional. I also reset the BIOS and CMOS, the motherboard reacted the same way when the power button was pressed. Full Specs: CPU - i5 8600k MOBO - ASROCK Z370 Killer SLI/ac RAM - Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200Mhz CPU COOLER - CoolerMaster ML240L RGB. SSD - Samsung 860 Evo 500GB HDD - Western Digital 1TB Blue GPU - Asus GeForce GTX 1070 PSU - 650W EVGA B3 CASE - Phanteks Eclipse P400 OS - Windows 10 Home 64-bit
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Hey guys, I had a USB drive with Windows on it and my installation crashed because of my cpu problem or whatever it is. Since then I can't boot Windows from it again and I can't format it with right-click because the volume is 0kB now instead of 8GB. Can anyone tell me how to format it again? Thanks in advance!!
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- usb drive
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I had update 1803 mess up my os first time around because it kept reverting to my restore point in the last stages of installation after a restart. But now since they've re-rolled the update out I'm having the same problem... Could this be a mobo firmware issue? Or is the update still just trash? I'm running 3570k on z77a-g45
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A EVGA 970 FTW just failed on me after just over a months use. This was an RMA that was still under warranty and it failed on me, I'm concerned that another component is the factor here. The PC runs without the GPU inserted into the PICe slot. All other components show no sign of problems, or errors. The original 970 FTW that I'd had lasted for almost 3 years, but then a second fails on me just after about a month? I don't have another card, or motherboard to test on, or even another power supply to test. I'd love to get some feedback on recommendations of things to investigate. Specs of system are below if that helps any Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370XP SLI - Firmware F8 2x8 Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2400 EVGA 750W G2 80 Plus Gold Sound Blaster Z Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 1TB 6TB Western Digital Blue Dell 24" Gaming 144hz G Sync 1440p Monitor Dell 24" 1440p 60hz Monitor
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So my hard drive on my PC cannot be detected. I tried swapping out the SATA cables but it still won't show up in the bios. Does anyone know how to fix it or recover its data cheaply? I'm planning to replace it with and SSD anyways but I need the data recovered from it The hard drive failed with a MEMORY_MANAGEMENT BSOD and then the system refused to boot citing no boot device. The SATA cable was quite loose but when replaced would not work.
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Hello all! Just looking for some advice or to see if anybody else has experience with a similar issue. It has me properly scratching my head! haha. So, last Wednesday, while my PC was running completely at idle, sat at the desktop, my Corsair SF600 power supply failed with a bang and a flash of light from the rear of the PSU itself. Tripping the circuit breaker for the sockets on that ring. This appeared to kill the unit all together. Wasn't able to get any power to any of the components until I connected up an older power supply, an AX750, externally (as it doesn't fit in my SFX case). I one-by-one reconnected each component and tried powering the device. To my surprise, everything was fine with all of the components hooked up. Ran a couple of hours of Prime95 and Unigine Valley simultaneously with no issues. So I shrugged and attributed this to the heatwave we are currently having in the UK that must have pushed a very heavily used 3 year old PSU over the edge. So I ordered a replacement. The next day I installed the replacement SF600 and i was off to the races. However today, 5 days after installing it, the replacement unit appears to have failed. The PC, this time while streaming a video from 4oD, powered down suddenly. Followed by a 'clunk' from the power supply. Sounded like a safety shut off to me. Testing would seem to agree as cycling the power switch on the PSU would allow me to switch the PC on for a split second. Then it would power back down immediately. Seems to be a protection cutoff. I have tried powering up the PC with this 2nd SF600 with just the 24 pin (ATX) and 8 pin (CPU) connected. Still exactly the same results. Only powers on for a fraction of a second. The PC is now running fine again using the AX750 as an external power supply sat next to the tower. No stability issues running stress tests or games. Could anyone here suggest a line of investigation? I'm confused as to how I have managed to kill 2 Corsair SF600's in the space of a week... Amazon are already sending a free replacement for SF600 number 2 and I'm concerned this will just pop as well after just as short a life span. Would you guys think the 2nd unit being faulty is more or less likely than one of my components being at fault? The PC is on a surge protector. Maybe this could do with replacing? Maybe I'm experiencing unclean power... So many avenues to go down. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Hello, Yesterday, I was doing a routine graphics driver upgrade when I got the message: Nvidia Installer Failed. I have tried reinstalling the drivers multiple times, I have used DDU to clean the old drivers off, and I have tried reseating my GPU. Nothing works. It seems as if my old drivers have been completely removed because if I go to the control panel, my GPU is not there and there is one "Unknown Device." When I try to upgrade drivers for the unknown device, it tries to upgrade to the "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter" but that also fails. It says "The third-party INF does not contain digital signature information." So, basically, I am stuck with no drivers for my GPU at all because it always fails no matter what I do. Help is appreciated. Thanks, Landon
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Hey, Windows did an automatic update when I was out, and it seems to have totally wiped and broken my Samsung 840 EVO. The drive shows up in Disk Manager, and list of drives, but I can't format it, write much data to it, access any data that was there. I've tried so many solutions involving deleting and creating partitions, as well as changing the ports and cables it's using. The disk just doesn't seem to want to work properly. It's out of warranty by about 6 months, so thats out fo the question. Any help would be great! Thanks.
- 13 replies