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Recently, my PC has been having the "Display driver failed to start" error. The screen would also go black when I would start any 3D game, and sometimes it would reboot, or I could still hear sounds from the game until I restart it manually. Over time, it turned into the screen going black while browsing the web or watching a movie (still probably power hungry tasks, as I always have 40+ Chrome tabs open). In the last couple days, the PC would sometimes not even start at all. I decided to revisit the issue later, and now that I got to it, it wouldn't start again. The PC is connected to a socket strip for power, with around 4 other devices plugged in there too. After failing to start the PC, I unplugged one of the other devices from the socket strip (just a USB hub, that didn't even have any of its switches on, just a small LED), and the moment I do that, the PC just turns on. About a week before noticing problems with the PC, I also noticed that my phone (charging from a different socket strip) wouldn't charge if my smartwatch was charging from the same strip, although that is not the case anymore. I am wondering whether it is indeed the lack of power in the sockets, and whether I can check that somehow myself without any specialized tools, and whether these issues are even connected and there is also a problem with my drivers (which I already attempted to update and reinstall). And just what could I do in general to get to understand the problem better. More importantly, I would like to know whether I should avoid using the PC until the problem is fixed. Can the lack of power cause some kind of damage? I don't know whether there have been any new electrical appliances in the house, as I'm sharing it with a few people, and have no idea what are they doing in their rooms. My system: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X Zotac GeForce GTX 1070TI 8GB Mini 16GB RAM (Corsair) a 5400 RPM HDD (4TB), a SATA SSD (1TB) and an M.2 (250GB) (all Western Digital) Corsair Vengeance 550W Bronze + PSU Asus TUF B450 M Plus Gaming Motherboard I live in the Netherlands, so its 220 V in the sockets, in case that matters. Thanks in advance for looking into this.

Hello everyone, A week ago I bought a new rig with a new mobo, Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X. Since then Ive been hearing buzzing that is very quiet but noticeablen and annoying af. My outlet is not grounded but I didnt experience anything like this with my previous pc. Now the interesting part, the buzzing changes pitch and intensity depending on what Im doing. Everytime I launch a program it stops for a second or two, running stress test makes it silent. I have to mention that after turning on my pc the buzzing starts exactly when the logging to your account appears. Im sure its not my headphones I tried it with different ones. Will a cheap soundcard help with that, maybe UPS? I need your help. Thank you all for replies

So I have my first PC and it has a Seasonic S12III 650w 80+ Bronze PSU. While I was trying to remove my desktop speakers I accidentally touched the PSU's screws and gave me a shock, me thinking it was just static build up I tried to touch it again and it gave me a constant shock. So I tried to touch the UPS that its connected to and well it also gave me a shock. The USB ports in front of my case too shocks me. Is it my PSU? or could it be that I use a 3 to 2 prong adapter for my UPS? Since we only have 2 prong power outlets here.

Hey everyone, so I'm doing my 3rd build and its been a while. However, I just remembered I have an Anti-static strap back from 2015-17, which looks still perfectly good. Issue is, I've grown since then. The wrist strap sits snug and tight, I can move my hand but I feel like when I'll be putting together the computer for an hour at most, my wrist will become sore. I came up with the idea of adding another velcro strip hook and loop to widen the straps length, and then thought, could this affect the closed loop system on the strap? I know it's a dumb question and most veterans will roll their eyes, but I'm curious. Drop a comment and let me know, pics attached.

Hello, so a few months back my motherboard (Asus h81m-c) fried and wouldn't let my pc start up, so I then replaced the motherboard with a new one, and bought a new powersupply (seasonic s12ii 620w 80+ Bronze) , a week after I bought those two my gpu ports fried, what can I do about it, the place where I plug all my cables (not sure what it's called) can handle up to 2500 watts. And I'm afraid of replacing the fried gpu and getting a new one burnt, what can I do? Specs: Asus Strix gtx 970 Asus vg278qr and a TV monitor I5 4590 2x8 HYPERX fury black 1600 mhz Asus h81m-c Seasonic s12ii 80+ bronze Coolermaster masterbox 5 rgb

I was doing some cable management the other day and was thinking about how many different wires there are in a pc. one rabbit hole after another, I concluded that some energy has to escape a wire when traveling through it. so any research regarding this subject would be greatly appropriated! Main question: is there a way to capture lost energy from wires to be stored on a battery. Is it viable? Can I have your sources?

Hey yall. I'm bored and wanted to take my girlfriend's old Nook HD+ tablet and make it into a rudimentary android-running device, but i wanted to desolder the old 30-pin socket on the inside and replace it with a 5-pin usb type-B socket. However, I'm not sure the best way to go about this. There are a lot of pins that I don't really care about, and i know all i need are 5VDC, D+, D-, ID, and GND. But when there are 5+ GND pins and 2 5VDC pins, how can i find out which ones to use? or can i splice all identical wires together and solder them to one pin of the corresponding type? Could i do some disaster like this? or will i have to trace the wires to find which ones actually matter? Most of the pins (blank and some ground) are meant for the hdmi adapter for it, and that doesnt concern me. Thank you in advance for the input

I just finished a PC build and it is causing electric shocks to whoever it touches especially if barefooted on the ground. The shocks are from the screws and metal areas of the case. I guess the issue is with the grounding of the plug but it is plugged into a UPS and if that one is not grounded, and if it is causing the problem then I don't know how to solve it since grounds are not available in sockets in my house. I contacted my parts supplier and told them about the issue, they told me its common and that they have no solution but grounding the case, which they left to me. Where I live there are really few good electricians and most of them I cannot trust, and there is no way to ground the sockets in the house in case you guys suggested it. So I am going to ground my case by myself but I have no idea how and i fear that the constant grounding directly from the case will cause a current that can affect the parts.

Note: I am not sure whether if this is like news worthy on this forum but I think this could be interesting topic to talk about regardless and since this is actually about tech, it should normally fit in. If not, feel free to remove the thread or lock it. Summary of articles: Earlier this month, the Belgian government warned the people about possible power outages due to the lack of nuclear power plants active. Those that are offline are under maintenance. Only one shall be active in the winter period as well as a gas-fired power station just outside of Brussels. They also noted that international electricity supplies from neighboring countries are not sufficient enough for the country. The people won’t be feeling anything about the supply gap until November. The prices about electrical delivery has jumped up as high as 411 euros (roughly $484) a megawatt-hour, compared to the average of 60.19 euros ($69,95) over the past year. Belgian authorities are hoping for a non-chilly winter in Europe. Once it gets colder, the demand for heating obviously rises and limits the available power export to Belgium, since neighboring countries prioritize serving their own residents first. Belgium is also planning on phasing out their nuclear power plants by 2025. The plants who have started their operation between 1975 and 1985, are having safety issues over the past recent years. Without the proper plans and plants to replace the capacity, Belgium could be heading towards a supply crunch. The closures of these plants (including a few old gas-based facilities), will lead to a power generation shortfall of 3.6 gigawatts, according to GlobalData (London-based analysis and data provider). There are some solutions that could add some to the capacity like renewable energy, but the density of the country itself limits that possibility. As a note, Belgium isn't the country struggling to keep their old reactors safe. (Elia = Belgium’s Electricity Transmission System Operator) Quote from VRT article: Personal opinion: I don’t buy it. The last 3 years (I assume), the government has been saying about these possible power outages, but it never came to it (as far I am aware of). The timing about these maintenance routines seem to be a little bit of out place, then again these things should happen. But, these power plants seem to be having failures multiple times throughout the past few years as mentioned in the summary. If the government is indeed right this time, I would be slightly surprised and ashamed. Also, as mentioned above, Belgium is planning on phasing out nuclear power plants. I honestly wonder about the supplies then. Sources: 1. Morison, R., Belgium faces Winter blackouts as aging reactors falter, Bloomberg, 2018-09-26, (https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-09-26/belgium-faces-winter-blackouts-as-aging-nuclear-plants-falter) 2. Electricity supplies cannot be guaranteed in November, VRT NWS, 2018-09-27, (https://www.vrt.be/vrtnws/en/2018/09/27/electricity-supplies-cannot-be-guaranteed-in-november/)

need to conect my pc to extension cord that i super long is it safe? like 25m(82feet) and i have read that the longer the cord is the more it heats up can it destroy my pc? i have sity corsair vs550 powersuplay and the extension cord will be super thick so no worrys AH and the pc is oc'ed if its a difference

I have a gaming rig with a 650 watt power supply. My (surge protected) power outlet strip's capacity is at 15A 125VAC 1875W. My pc can carry up to 10A 125VAC 1250 Watts. Is this safe enough for my pc? I will also be having my 2.1A 19V monitor plugged into it as well as my 2A 250V Light plugged into the power supply. That leaves out of the 15Amps only 1Amp left to use on the power outlet strip and 85 Watts left out of the 1875. Am I calculating this right? And is this safe?? Please help

Hi, so I was talking to my family about the two gaming systems in our house - my 8600K + GTX 1060 PC & my brother's Ryzen 2200G PC - and I made a point: and so my mum was convinced the electricity bill would be minimally affected by the power consumption of my PC. My brother's PC comes into the equation, I estimated his PC uses around 130W at max and he uses his PC easily 15 hours a day (it's complicated) and I also claimed this wouldn't affect the electricity bill that much. How much of an effect does my PC's electricity usage have on the household electricity bill? Our average electric bill comes to £50 per calendar month, but I have no idea if that covered my PC since I made my PC in June and the bill probably wouldn't have adjusted to the new PC's electricity usage due to it being a quarterly payment. Some notes: • My PC is used around 6 hours per day, 50% gaming, 50% desktop • Brother's PC is used around 12 hours per day, 90% gaming, 10% desktop (I'm not joking, he's got social problems and thus is homebound by choice) Both of the PCs are in my signature. Extra question, how much of a price difference is running 4.6GHz vs 4.9GHz on my 8600K?

Problem: Recently my PC will not turn on when i press the power button sometimes. No Led No fan spinning nothing. Tried: When it does not turn on , i flipped the PSU switch off and on and also change the electrical outlet that the PSU is connected to. (usually only need to do once) Worked: It will then turn on and work for the whole day without any problem. Tried: Jump starting the motherboard with a screwdriver to test for case switch. (No reaction not sure if im doing it right) This Morning 9/16: It did not turn on, even after changing outlet and flipping the PSU switch, i took the case out and cleaned it and check if everything is seated properly. Plug back in and still did not turn on, after 5min i tried again and it powered on. Note: Usually happens when i turn it off at night and turn it on again in the morning. If i try to replicate it by shutting down my PC and turning it on 5min later the problem will not be there. (Can't confirm) The system was built in January everything is new except for the PSU and HDD which is about 5-6years old. Specs: OS: Win 10 Home 64bit CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Motherboard: MSI Tomohawk Artic B350 Ram: 2x 8GB G.Skill Trident 3200mhz Cooler: AMD Wraith Cooler GPU: Asus GTX 1060 Dual OC Edition 6Ghz PSU: Corsair AX750 Case: NZXT s340 elite BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. H.60, 7/27/2017 Nothing is overclocked.

My motherboard for some reason is emitting some sort of electrical hum, however, it is only audible when amplified via a soundboard, for example. Upon startup of the PC, the hum is more of a crackle and gradually turns into the steady hum that I am writing about. This hum is rather loud via AUDIO OUT, however, is still noticeable via AUDIO IN, especially during vocal productions., however, not as loud. I tested to make sure it was not just a case of bad IO by taking the the cord for AUDIO INPUT from my board and touching metal contacts around the motherboard, including the IO and sure enough the hum was still readily available to my dismay. The board does not shock me and it functions. No, this is not a case of ground looping, I have tested all of my equipment, PC included, on both the same power strip as well as separate connections. I have also taken a copper strand, connected it to a metal contact emitting the hum, and attached it to the aluminum case as a ground, but it still sounds the same. From what I have gathered, it is either the power supply or the board itself. Anyone one have any ideas? Thanks

Hello, I've been experiencing a weird issue for some time now since moving to my new apartement. I'll try my best to explain it as detailed and as best as possible, please bear in mind that I do not have any or atleast very little knowledge about electricity. Mainly, what I'm experiencing is overall input lag, a loss of response, slow response of my USB devices which contain mainly, keyboard and mouse, and next to that a steering wheel and pedals when racing. I'm a simracer, this is basically racing but taken a bit more seriously if I can put it like that. It's on a pretty decent level, so you can imagine that you want a good response of your inputs and most importantly consistent. Now, this is totally not the case, the sim I'm using is iRacing, first few seconds it's alright, but the more time I'm driving, the worse it gets, when I'm weaving around (flicking steering wheel left to right when driving) to test the response, it's really bad. I can just feel it being completely off and that something is limiting it from being responsive and the way it should respond considering my hardware equipment. It's hard to explain really again, but it's inconsistent, so basically every corner I get a different response, this means that I have to adapt to it every corner. Imagine it like you have to guess what will come, rather then in a normal situation, you feel from the force feedback from the wheel what is coming, and you can feel when exactly you have to turn, what grip you'll have, you get so much more information from the wheel alone. Now this aswell is not there, I can feel that this is delayed and that like I said kinda have to guess when I will have to turn in, it's as if the force feedback, the inputs of my steering wheel, pedals, are all delayed to the image that I'm seeing. This ofcourse makes driving almost impossible for me, especially after a lap or something it gets really bad and it's just as if you're using some kind of high latency TV, although that's a different delay. For me, something like that is easy to adapt to, like a wireless controller from a console, this also ofcourse has a noticeable delay, everything has delay no matter what, but this is easy to adapt to, what I'm experiencing is as if it's constantly a different response you get, and totally unpredictable. Now, again, I hope I explained this well enough, all kinds of questions or advice is welcome, I'll now advance by explaining detailedly what I'm experiencing and what I've already tried to make it any better. What are the symptoms? What have you experienced? Overall input lag, loss of mouse/keyboard response, not anywhere near of what you'd expect from a good computer, feels as if you're using an old computer. When watching a youtube video or a livestream on twitch for example, video and audio completely out of sync, get the feeling that music/audio is playing at a slower rate then what I'm used to compared to listening to it on my iPhone. I also see microstuttering in videos, so it's far from running smoothly. Overall loss of performance, just everything opening up slower and less smooth then you'd expect from a computer like this. Basically, changing any setting in windows, no matter what, from stopping certain services, to changing settings in the NVIDIA control panel, to changing settings in the BIOS all has an impact on the mouse response. Although, after a certain amount of time (few seconds in most cases), it goes back to what it was before. I always experience a noticeable ''peak'', what I like to call it. Touching my computer's case, putting my feet on the ground, in the air, putting cables further away from each other, grabbing cables next to eachother, etc... This all has an impact on the response of the USB devices. For example, I'm testing my mouse response by doing circles with my feet on the ground, now, I put my feet in the air, and I can feel for let's say 2-3 seconds that my mouse response gets a peak of a noticeably better mouse response. After these 2-3 seconds, it's back to what it was before. Now, if I put my feet back on the ground, same story. Same thing if I touch my PC, play with the cables and putting them on a different place, basically making any electrical change if that makes sense? Somebody told me to never bundle your 230V cable with any datacable (HDMI cable for example), so I tried to put them away from eachother, and to be honest I discovered the further away they are from eachother, the better. Although I have the feeling that after doing that, I feel the response is better, but no matter what after a while it's back to what it was before. Seems like any change I make makes it temporairly better, but fundamentally it still comes back and remains after a certain amount of time. If I for example open Google Chrome, and open some stuff, I can feel that it gets worse, same story when closing it, I can feel the response getting better. I have a Fanatec CSL Elite V1.1 Steering Wheel which should use only up to 180W maximum (nowhere close to that when not being used). I can feel that when I plug it in the wall, the response already getting alot worse when I didn't even turn it on. When I turn it on, it gets even more bad, especially during the boot sequence, the sequence of it turning on. Eventually when it is turned on, it's better, but still I'd say worse to what it was before. Also tried this in living room with the different PC there, connecting it only to the wall (not connected with PC by USB, only wall) so no connection with the PC, and I could feel exactly the same there. If I want a better mouse response overall, I can especially feel this after a clean install when settings are reverted to default that the response is bad again, I'd have to everywhere choose for the most performance gaining options, settings. For example in NVIDIA control panel, adjust for best performance in Windows Settings, fiddling around with drivers, stopping services I don't need, make less programs start on startup of the computer, putting the lowest settings in a game (in my case iRacing, higher settings makes it alot worse tbh). Then the mouse response gets a bit better overall if I tweak settings here and there but fundamentally really the thing is still there. When not touching my mouse, not using my computer for a few seconds, and then touching my mouse, using it and testing the response, I can feel it is better to what it was before when I was consistently using it. But after 2-3 seconds, it gets worse because I'm using the mouse. So actually, not using the computer for a while, and then testing also makes it better, but then ofcourse it gets back to what it was before by using it. I do have the feeling, and I'm almost sure that the other PC in the living room is experiencing exactly the same thing. When listening to my microphone by my headphone, I can hear a buzzing noise. When I touch my PC case, buzzing is gone. What have you tried to make it any better? What attempts did you make in order to solve this issue? I have an aluminium simracing rig, and an aluminium triple monitor stand. This ofcourse could be sensitive to static electricity, and could generate this all. This is why I went to the living room, with only 1 monitor, keyboard, mouse, and only the cables that are mandatory. Was completely the same, didn't see any improvement. I did several clean installs, now I did one again just to make sure, and it's exactly the same. So software, everything is fine, no virusses, malware or anything like that. Tried to replace my PSU and GPU, PSU was a CX750 which was bronze efficiency, GPU was an RX 480. Before I knew this could be something to do with the electricity, I thought maybe both were failing, or my GPU was not capable of doing what I was asking from it. Replaced PSU with an RM750X, and a NVIDIA RTX 2070 Super. Both were new. I maybe thought my CPU overclock could cause this all, but I fiddled around with settings alot to see maybe something was not right, I ended up running load optimized defaults and it's exactly the same thing. I saw that it had an impact on the mouse response though, overclock, no overclock for a short time, but in the end, in general, ended up being the same. Tested my SSD in the other PC here, tested the other PC's SSD in my computer, same thing. Disconnected my fan controller and WD 1TB HDD in order to see if those were maybe causing it. Used ferrite cores on my USB cables which made the mouse response more consistent but still fundamentally no changes. Used an ESD wrist strap, I tried to put the crocodile clip on several places, again, when clipping it on a metal part, I notice that famous ''peak'' for a few seconds, the mouse response getting noticeably better, and then back to what it was before really. Tried an isolation transformer, think this also helped in terms of consistency, ended up in returning it since it in the end kinda ended up in the same thing. Tested different power cables, different HDMI to DP cables, and HDMI to HDMI cables. Tested all of my 3 monitors seperately, also tested with the monitor of the other PC. Tested onboard graphics instead of using the GPU's graphics. Tested the RAM of my PC in the other PC and vice versa. Tested different USB ports. Tested without my pedals and steering wheel obviously. Tested a different power strip. Tested a different wall outlet. Tested without my AUX and microphone cable. Tested the other PC, which has exactly the same thing I believe. Also loss of mouse response when opening chrome, stuttering, inconsistent mouse response when making a change (feet in the air, on ground example, also the ''peak'' I talked about). Tested a different mouse, different keyboard. Grabbing USB cables by eachother, bundling them, making a ''ponytail'' makes it better, although in general, again, after a while it's back to what it was before. Tried to shut off all breakers, expect mine to see if maybe some kind of device was causing it all, but was exactly the same. Also tried to run my PC on a different breaker, so not the one from my room and again shutting off all the others, but no luck. ... For information, I'm situated in Belgium, Europe, where we use 230V, 50Hz. From my side, I think I tried everything I could regarding my knowledge. Only thing I could think of is maybe the motherboard or CPU failing, but I guess that these sort of things are not really symptoms you'd expect from these components. I seriously have no idea anymore, and I think it could be maybe down to the electricity. I still live with my parents, so I can't really decide something on my own. Since we're only here since January, we had to sort the electricity, so an electrician came here and had to change the power box, did alot of work there, and then weirdly enough some wall outlets including mine wasn't grounded, he ended up in grounding all the wall outlets here by extending the cables of the ones that were grounded I suppose. Now, I ofcourse hoped this could be the big fix, but unfortunately, it didn't. I also talked with him about my situation, he said that stuff like computers and aluminium rigs are very sensitive to static electricity, so he said to maybe make a seperate grounding for myself. Also, I asked him if he couldn't check the quality of the grounding maybe being poor, or checking the quality of the electricity maybe that there is some kind of loss anywhere, he answered that he didn't have the tools to do that, that the costs for them were too high for the few times he needs them. So yeah, I was kinda disappointed, it's really frustrating because I, myself have not really any clue about electricity. I did talk to a person on reddit who is an electricity engineer, like stated above, he told me to try and grab my USB cables together, and see if it was any better, and indeed. He stated that I could have a ''capacitive coupling'' problem or electrical noise. Also heard that you can test with an AM radio or something where the noise could be created from, but again, my knowledge is really small regarding electricity so I'm not gonna make any statement. I hope that you guys could maybe help me out, or atleast give me some explaination of what exactly could be causing this all, because for myself it is really a mystery and a dead end, making me quit my hobby eventually. I'd like you thank you in advance for your time and your efforts. Edit, let's not forget the specs: ASUS PRIME Z370-A G.Skill 16GB RAM 2x8GB F4-3200C16D-16GVKB Intel Core i5 8600K (currently stock) Gigabyte NVIDIA RTX 2070 Super Samsung SSD 250GB WD Blue 1TB HDD Corsair RM750X Gold Corsair H115i 2x Acer K242HQL & Acer K242HL, 24 inch 1920x1080 @60Hz Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Mechanical Keyboard Logitech G303 Mouse Fanatec CSL Elite V1.1 Wheelbase Fanatec V3 Pedals Windows 10 Pro x64

Hi, I sent this following message to the evga support: They were quick to respond with offering me a RMA to send it in so they could take a look at it. Although since I am, for what I think are quite obvious reasons, not so keen on sending away my PSU to the other side of the globe for God knows how long, I wanna hear a second opinion. Have any of you experienced anything similar? Could this just be semi normal behaviour from the PSU since it's not grounded? Thanks.

I know there are products to ground yourself. But I don’t want to spend extra money on something I’m just going to use once. Are there any other ways I can be safe without needing to be grounded? (Good general practices, type of flooring?, clothing? Etc) thanks

My keyboard, Corsair K70 Lux, is at random shocking me. This isnt static electricity, as the electricity flow is continuous for multiple seconds. It happens about once every other week or so. When i happens i can feel the electricity from the metal screw in the chassi. The shockes are of course not dangerous as the keyboard only pulls about 2.5w. I have tried to change the usb port on my motherboard, it still happens. It even happend once when i had the keyboard connected go a laptop. Its fortunately still under warenty and ive begun the rma process but between the retailer being unhelpful and corsair being slow af, its taking it time. I'm just curious if anyone has experience something similar, or can guess as to what the problem may be.

Hi, this is for the car guys aswell as the people with knowledge about electricity, switches, buttons etc. I have a plan to put a switch in my car so I can turn on the brake lights without touching the brakes, I'm also thinking about doing this with the reverse lights. I have a switch that I want to use, and my question is how I would connect it? Would I just put it on the same wires as the little switch under the brake pedal, or do I need to do something else? If I connect it parallell to the brake pedal switch, it would work like normally when my new switch is off, but when I turn it on the brake lights will come on? Or do I have to do it differently? I want an effective way to get rid of people who likes to follow way too close..

Can some one help me about my CPU? whenever I plug the usb in my cpu like for example my phone, when I touch my phone there's an electricity on it like a electric shock a ground or something I tried to use different usb cords same thing...

Hi. Let me know I’m asking in the wrong place so I can just delete this and check elsewhere, I’m asking here because I assume electricity that MIGHT be bad has been killing my electronics for awhile now. i have my PC and some other important electronics connected to a surge protector. That surge protector has an indicator light that says Not Grounded and it’s usually on. I grabbed my multimeter and read the following: Note, I’m not too familiar with the electrical terms, so I’m testing them by putting the black wire on the wide outlet slot and the red one on the short one. I also took turns with the U shaped slot black to wide red to short——-122 volts red to short black to U slot—120 volts black to wide red to U slot——1.4 volts Does this mean my ground really is bad? Or is my surge protector going bad or no longer protecting?

First off, sorry If this is the wrong place for this thread. However, I have found two UPS Systems that I am currently looking at to buy here in the next few days. I currently have this computer , along with three monitors, a 60" TV, Soundbar, space heater, and an xbox all hooked up to through two crappy surge protectors at the moment and my problem is that I can't run my space heater for long without blowing a breaker. I understand that I can only run so much at once from the outlets in my room. However my question is, if i disperse it more across the outlets in my room would that make a difference rather than having it just in two outlets? Also, with the recent amount of breakers blown and random shutdowns of my computer I have decided to upgrade to a UPS and better quality surge protectors: Are either of these reliable and will help with my situation? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2GV8KCWTE8TOV&colid=3MPQPVB8X5KY6&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IN28WINTBIFIG&colid=3MPQPVB8X5KY6&psc=1 Thanks in advance guys, I appreciate the help. -A Lifeguard

Hi all, I have a pretty weird problem. Every time when I get up from my chair and when I'm touching metal chair feet my monitor blinks. I know that's static electricity discharge and my wall outlet is grounded but what on earth my chair has got with my monitor shutting down and turning back on? What could be causing this annoyance?

Hey guys can I ask if it is safe to turn of the power supply when my PC is off, and turning it on again when I'm going to use my PC? Edit: I meant turning PSU off after shut down

I'm building a computer and I'd like to know if an EVGA SuperNOVA G1 750W PSU will be enough to support a system with an MSI 990FXA motherboard, an AMD FX-8350 processor, a STRIX R9 380X 4GB graphics card, an LG Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-Ray Rewriter, an ASUS PCE-AC56 802.11ac Dual-band Wireless-AC1300 PCI-E Adapter, a Seagate 1TB SSHD, and 16GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR3 RAM @ 1866Mhz. Yeah, no? Overkill or just enough? Suggestions for a better one?