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  1. I want to add a motion detector to the sealing lights at my home but I am getting confused and don't know what they are called somewhere it seems to be pir sensor and other says microwave sensor . I don't know which one is use for what ur help will be appreciated. I have attached image of something and want to know is this the right thing. I would also appreciate any recommendations u have
  2. I'm beside myself. I've looked up guides, and I can't get the lights on this ceiling fan to work. This is the only way I've gotten the fan (not the light) to turn on. From the ceiling I have beige, beige, black, and a white which is connected in the ceiling to a bare for ground. It's a single switch, so I don't have separate switches for light and fan. I think the second beige continues to a wall outlet. Connected this way, the fan works and all my outlets work. I have found no guide that shows what I'm seeing, and any other way of connecting anything I've tried trips my breaker. I don't know. Can anyone tell me what to do?
  3. I have a home lab which I use to test software, host websites, docker containers, and serve media files using Jellyfin. It's an old gaming rig with the following specs: CPU: Core i7 6800K Motherboard: MSI X99A Godlike Gaming RAM: 16 GB DDR4 2666 MHz (2* 8) GPU: GT 710 PSU: Thermaltake TR2 S Series 550W I am running Ubuntu server OS. During the summer season, I am facing some extended power outages every few days in the week. I want to make sure that my server automatically turns on after power is restored. I was thinking of building an electrical module with a relay switch and connecting it to the power supply and the power switch pin in the motherboard. But I am not an electric engineer, so I am not sure if this will work. I am asking if anyone has a solution using off-the-shelf components first. If not I would love to get some directions on how to build the module. N.B.: I do have an 2000VA offline UPS, it can't provide enough backup.
  4. Hello, I have just installed my brand new Samsung Odyssey Neo G9 monitor and almost immediately I started to notice a sound best described as a static or electric sound like when you touch a metal object and it shocks you. The sound comes around about every 10-20 seconds. I narrowed it down to be coming from the monitor as the sound stops when I turn the monitor off specifically it comes from the right side of the the monitor from the back. I searched online and found a temporary solution where I disconnect the monitor from power and press the power button for 10 seconds which is supposed to close the circuit and drain the static. This worked but only temporarily as soon the noise was soon back. I wanted to seek help to see if anyone has had this problem and hopefully managed to find a permanent solution for it. I just got this monitor and I'm now reluctant to power it on fearing that I might damage it. Your help and tips are appreciated. Information that maybe relevant: The monitor is mounted on a metal "pole" attached to my my wooden desk I have two monitors mounted vertically atop of one anther on the same metal "pole" I have a desk light halo bar mounted on the monitor. I removed it and the sound persisted The power source is on the same desk and the PC is standing on the desk There is a soundbar, phone charger, laptop sitting on the same desk
  5. I have checked and its not a grounding problem with my outlet or surge protector, I feel it might be a problem with the psu. I am asking for help bc a while ago I was troubleshooting my pc I had left it plugged in by accident and got a tingling feel when I touch it, I quickly move my hand out of there and left me scared for a while. also I had both the psu and surge protector turned off.
  6. i finished my build lately but i got problem here or is it normal when i switched on psu the rgb light start flashing, is it safe? its run normal tho. im using corsair rm750e sorry for my bad english *ignore the switches sound VID_20221209082151.mp4
  7. It has an i5 6400 using the stock cooler, h110 motherboard, 16gb of ram reused, 400w evga powersupply, one of my SSDs I don't use and a very cheap case that I don't know its name. I just want to have a low power consuming pc for Hurricane season.
  8. Hello, I have been having this issue sporadically for about a year now. At first it was very rare, however its been happening more frequently now (around once or twice ever 2 weeks). Randomly, especially while playing games, my pc will just... restart. it will then boot back up, no blue screen, nothing. I even checked event viewer and i cant see anything that it would say is wrong apart from an unexpected restart. Now, to explain everything might be a bit long but before that below are my PC specs: GPU - MSI 2070super CPU - AMD 5800x MoBo - Gigabyte X570 I Memory - G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB PSU - Cooler Master V850 SFX GOLD 850 W Case - Cooler Master NR200P CPU Cooler - Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 running two monitors, 1440 and a 1080 If I have missed any other useful specs you can let me know. When I first built my PC on the 11th of January 2020, I encounter a blue screen after 30 minutes of usage. This problem was caused by my memory not being supported at 3600Mhz. To fix this, I underclocked it to 3200Mhz and have kept it there ever since without issue. (Originally my specs had the ryzen 3600 and a 750W corsair PSU. I was also using the NZXT H200 case) Even back then, I did sometimes have this random restarts issue, although it was much more rare than now. Fast forward to when I replaced my case, CPU, and PSU, I accidentally used my CableMod cable from my old corsair PSU on my GPU. At this time, the PC would simply not turn on, and my new PSU would make a *click* noise and then a light on the MoBo would blink. After 5 minutes of googling I found the issue, replaced the cable with the one that came with my Cooler Master PSU and turned it on with no issue. After a few days, while gaming, my PC would randomly restart. No errors, no blue screen, even Event Viewer wouldnt say anything other than unscheduled restart. So, I ran MemTest over night (8hrs) and got zero errors. And here I am today. Writing this after yet another random restart in the hopes someone might be able to give me an idea of what is causing my PC to restart. This happened on my old PSU and CPU as well as my new ones. I also cant exactly replicate the restart cause i dont know what causes it to restart. I should also add, that my temps under load are pretty good for a small form factor case. My CPU never goes above 75c and my GPU never goes above 81c. Honestly the only thing left that might be causing the issue could be the electric outlet / the electricity coming from the outlet to the PSU. Unfortunately I cant really fix that and I have no idea to test if my home electricity isnt stable or something. I was posting on here to ask if failing hardware somewhere could cause random restarts without errors. I have updated drivers and BIOS. Could I have damaged my GPU with the wrong cable incident? Will a UPS solve the issue? If so, which UPS would you recommend as I have no clue about UPS's. I have attached the HWMonitor after doing a 3DMark timespy run as well as the timespy score incase that helps anyone. Sorry for such a long post here. I just want to put all the info I have out there in the hopes someone might have an Idea to the issue that's better than those non-descript websites that list the same trial and error solutions over and over. Thank you, Fudge HWMonitor_11-10-22_3dmarktimespy.txt
  9. Good afternoon, I recently upgraded to a MSI Ventus 2x 3070. Since upgrading, I have noticed that the two wall lamps I have flicker when my computer system is under load. They are both running 4W Dimmable LEDs (GE Vintage Style LED Light Bulbs), and are both run through a Lutron Credenza LED+ dimmer switch. My initial troubleshooting attempts involved swapping out the bulbs, but that did not make a difference. I then suspected it was a circuit issue, so I ran an extension cord and hooked the two lamps up to a different circuit in the house. This seemed to fix the issue for the most part. However, today while rendering a video and playing a game at the same time, the lights started flickering again. Could this be some kind of EMI or grounding issue? My PSU is a 600w, which I think should be sufficient for the load coming from my 3070. Any thoughts? Let me know if this is not the proper forum for these questions. The issue only started happening when I upgraded my GPU. I did have the occasional flicker with my previous GPU, but they were few and far between.
  10. Hi,I am renovating and I am really starting to love US l6-30R plugs, The problem is I am from EU and we have 230 here. the practicality of those plugs for my servers and miners would come very handy. So my understandment (US) X Y hots 110+110V and G is ground. will i be braking some electrical law if i used X- hot 230 Y-neutral and G for ground. From then on I would be making custom plugs l6-30-C13 3x2,5mm cable for American friends in between of 12-13 gauge. In electrical pannel there would be a normal 16A B type Braker. Why am i considering this option (i have parapet channels and it would come cheaper than our eu plugs) So am I totally going off road here or could this be a viable option (if so do you guys have any plugs for 3 phase 230v -25A ? PS. I would be using max of 3 per braker thanks (please don't bully me )
  11. i am wiring some slide potentiometers to build my own audio mixer and was wondering what would i solder a "mute" button on to ,either the analog or the vcc wire
  12. So I have a custom built and have been using it for a few months. The last few times I've unplugged it to add parts or clean the area I've seen a flash of light and heard a sound that I thought might be electrical buzzing. When I unplug the computer I: 1. Shutdown the computer. 2. Flip the PSU power switch. 3. Unplug the power cable from the PSU. Whenever I turn it back on I just do the reverse; plugging the power cable into the PSU and then switching the power switch. After hitting the switch the RGB on my board and CPU fan flash for a moment, then go off. None of the fans activate, just RGB. I ended up taking the motherboard out of the case and shorting the power switch rods and the computer turned on, but it wouldn't boot to my SSD boot drive. I could see all drives I had attached under my I/O connections in the Bios, but couldn't boot to them. The contents of my SSD drive were still there so I just back it up and reinstalled windows. My current issue is that I: 1. Can't turn my computer on via the case power button after putting it back in the case. 2. I don't trust the power supply since the problem started presumably with it. I have protection on the PSU and can claim it to get another, but I'm not sure how to test it besides shorting the 4th and 5th pin (which worked, the fan moved and stopped since the PSU has a zero spin feature). Is it maybe possible the cable for the power button got fried if the PSU was acting up? I also have protection on the case (I thought the glass on it would break first, definitely worth now). It's also really concerning my SSD still had the OS and everything on it, but wasn't seen as a bootable drive. The SSD seems to be functioning fine as of right now though. When the motherboard was out of the case I noticed I have RGB lights on the back of my motherboard and since they also flash when I turn on the PSU that could have been the flash I noticed when it was inside the case. The RGB on the board flashes one 1 color, but it's different sometimes and I've seen it be just white. That's probably what I saw through the case's I/O slots and hopefully not flashes of electricity. I also didn't notice any burns on the motherboard, but please let me know if there are any specific spots I should give a check closely. I especially want some advice on how to test the power supply. I don't have any electrical test tools or another Mobo to swap out. I'm open to some affordable tool suggestions and obviously the cheapest way to solve this issue is to make sure I don't fry my system, so please throw your suggestions at me. Case: Antec Dark League DF700 FLUX mid tower CPU: Intel i7-11700k Cooler: Cooler Master MasterAir MA620M Dual Tower ARGB PSU: Corsair RM850 CP-9020196-NA Drives: WD Black SN850 1TB, Seagate Barracuda HDD 4TB ST4000DM004, Barracuda HDD 1TB Motherboard: Z590 Aorus Elite Graphics card: Gefore 3060 Asus Ram: G.Skill Ripjaw V series 32GB
  13. Hello, Need help understanding the root cause of the problem I have my computer connected to the battery side of a UPS power supply. (CyberPower 1500VA 10-Outlet UPS Battery Back-Up (LX1500GU-FC)) But anytime I turn on my dryer or oven in my house the UPS turns itself off (needing manually restart the UPS) and all connected device is cut from power, UPS battery is full, but it does not switch over to battery. They are not on the same circuit breaker, I checked. If I turn off the circuit breaker, the UPS keeps the computer powered on battery fine, just not when a motor or oven turns on. Isn't that what UPS is for? To keep the computer powered during a surge or outage? Is my UPS defective or is this an electrical issue with the house? Thanks,
  14. My psu after a power outage 3 days ago started doing this : The noise comes for around 6 to 7 seconds as i mentioned then disappears for possibly days..i don't know what to do my psu is FSP HEXA+ 550W
  15. For the past 2 days I've been hearing these electrical sounds while I'm asleep at night and it's been bothering me, I thought that the noise was coming from the plug multiplier and today I changed it with a new one but I noticed the sound didn't go away, so it had to be something else. I inspected it further and realised it's actually coming from my power supply. It's not a consistent noise, it doesn't happen all the time, just at random. It doesn't matter if I have my PC on or off for it to happen, as long as the power cord is connected to the plug the PSU makes this noise, hence why it was bothering me in my sleep. I put my phone under the PSU and recorded the noise to show it to you guys, I'll upload the audio file below if you are curious. It seems like this noise issue doesn't effect my computer's performance at all, at least for now. I'm typing this on the same computer with cracky-noise PSU and been using it past 2 days not knowing the issue and nothing seems damaged. But the PSU is still under warranty so maybe I should send it to get a new one? Is it dangerous to use my computer now? What are your thoughts? So far I've tried plugging a different cable to the PSU, and I blew some air in it via hair dryer to make the dust go away. Sadly the problem still persists. This is my PSU Voice_001_sd.wav
  16. So, I'm wanting to wire a car Cigarette lighter to a Molex 12v plug on my desktop psu. Will it work as normal, it would require any resistance or special circuitry like regulators or anything? It's a 650W psu, and only about 450-500W are being used total by my computer. Though, I'm currently turning a old 550W PSU into a bench DC PSU.
  17. Happy new year everyone! I have a problem with my PSU unit. It is EVGA Nex650g 80+ Gold rated. It makes barely audible electrical noises. Does it when idle and under load. Doesn't make it continuously, it is arythmic, comes and goes, i have a video, if you ignore fan noise, it will be audible. What may be the problem? Thanks in advance. VID-20210101-WA0000.mp4
  18. Hi I'm looking for some helpim planning on building my own pc case and is there any way to have 4 switches to turn on a PSU then pump then lights then pc monitor then I will need a momentary switch to turn on the mb ? I want each switch to turn on something different
  19. So, I'm wanting to build a Sleeper PC. I've got parts figured out for the most part, but one thing that has me stumped is how to utilize the old style rocker switches from way back when as a power button. Of course they were the actual 'power' switches, but now it's just an electronic switch that signals the PC to boot up from a dormant state more or less. Basically I need a way to make a rocker switch into a temporary switch, so that it does not shut the PC off immediately after getting turned on. If this is possible, I'd really appreciate the help. Thanks!
  20. Budget (including currency): Unknown Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Basic Photo/Video editing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hello, So I am currently planning a build that involves an iMac G3. I want to retrofit a modern hackintosh inside and want to mount an lcd panel to replace the screen that is installed. My plan is to use a 13inch 16:9 screen and add bezels on the side. The issue I am running into while planning it out is powering the screen. I found a few LCD panels that can fit as well as control boards with HDMI out. These control boards require a DC 12V connection to power the screen. I am aware the 6 pin connector on a power supply can supply 12V and was wondering how likely as well as difficult it would be to rig this up. I have no electrical background what so ever. I know it would be easier to run a 2nd power cable out of the back of the system to power the monitor but I would like to make the computer as minimum as possible with the exception of being able to connect a 2nd screen (because come on, 13 inches isn't enough). Is this plan far fetched or do I have the right idea on how to achieve this. Control Board - https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-LP133WF4-1920X1080-EDP-Screen-LCD-LED-HDMI-VGA-controller-board-DIY-kit/163224891699?hash=item2600f63133:m:mcO81ChL-ToxuaZrPdmnZOQ&autorefresh=true LCD Panel - https://www.ebay.com/itm/13-3-IPS-LCD-Display-Screen-LP133WF4-SPB1-for-Lenovo-Ideapad-710S-1080P-30pins/202515551015?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f26de1327:g:OVwAAOSwPEhcf2nD&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKxIntehGqQQl8nLx%2FEZs3RgioO0JxRNPl0aEhWcYdYNcamRgpiFHfEU%2F%2FGNLQhfYwX0eGUeK4ENfdDDHJ44xg%2FNFJSqBRSQYm%2FJvjrv8Fo%2FRTC2s74%2BZk9FSmCGINxNdtE6hteC7aoI6QU7Kst%2BmzdRnoSgZdn032TLjYBG0d6uhLaA3S5754Sod6YJV0dKMiRB6XsL4Cam0zNV5b9A0dZh0g4EUVcH2jy8nWj5zRN4ug%2FX9dGbmP1UB6fHKgzPhcjKjqeHYkBZmzYr5Bq4uVYv5cWrcl377YeWiYwqm6pwffrPyCXZqsj1M2aWETACjzJ510vs9M0%2BSYU8sbK5pMOTvyf2ReAxPgBckC54KWOGaTXlr5eR9%2FzGJW4RlQ%2BuzmFz0pKz1jKm%2FdjncCym0a4ovSgmiZLVNfXdEfqnvZAJPkr4qmNfsT3Z1dcKmpOlpPV334CIQyet%2BT%2Fn3zhS4l0kl4NDvARNOD%2BIonuXU9L%2FAfg9zLBWw0EOPoNcsLc0j10NzBo136xAIDD0FOy8k0vq3q64OaxyS%2F7eCak2sVr5vbnXamRCjngPdhcyCW2X6ThSp%2FQZZCi3a31JYV33Wrpnp2DfS3KJqG98smZFmJs9OjFOCQNa5L83Okdu3JVUFBpLevnWV8iKtk5m4S9xK9ZwLagxyKpHcJiGKQWpngf7g6xTZqaj6Bu2VU6MzRgNjCUXScYZ%2BRvqyh%2FOKBX6rrUh4RFtkwtmSYPkcX%2BD9z%2Fl6tij%2BlLIQpLMU1uHES4oeW&checksum=2025155510156c474662d03342598810a85ab516f189
  21. Hey everyone so I recently upgraded the built in cooler in my Deepcool genome 1 as it's 4+ years old and Deepcool isn't considered the most reliable brand. But while swapping things over I noticed something werid. The front LEDs that would pulse periodically were actually connected to the water pump. I don't know if they receive power or if it was a sensor merely to tell the lights when to pulse. I mateched the cables by color and removed the unnecessary 2 cables on the fan connector, and soldered them together. I am wondering if this will work or if im going to just overvolt something by using my ghetto adapter.
  22. Hello, I need your help. it started 3 or 4 months ago, after a year of usage my gigabyte z390 aorus pro started to buzz heavily from the VRM area on the IO side, but not idle, the idle sound is minimal and I'd have to nitpick and get real close to hear it. the electrical sound only ramps up in Game, a heavy game... like Division 2 or Destiny 2, anything heavier than Diablo 2 or Synthetik. I've tried everything, disabled CPU boost, checked the PSU cables, sent the GPU, CPU, PSU and MOBO to RMA... got a new MOBO the 1st time I RMA'd (same model), still buzzing sound in games. sent it to RMA again, got a new MOBO and MSI this time, still buzzes. changed RAM to 2400 instead of 3200, disconnected the Corsair AIO RGB usb cable, changed PSU CPU power cable, even after RMA-ing everything. twice they said everything was ok, and they can't hear buzzing while testing it all. I don't know what to do. updates BIOS, downgraded BIOS... changed wall sockets, changed monitors, changed PC power cabels, changed DP screen cables. (all this after RMA, I still have warranty). reinstalled windows... disabled XMP... everything, tried everything I could. changed extension cords... everything. next thing I'm trying is changing the cooler, disabling all the RGB and RGB hub. Funny thing, IDK if it's a problem, but the CPU is base 3.6k and boost 4.7k Ghz, but it boosts on its own to 4840Ghz and a little beyond, I'm confused. Spec: MOBO - MSI z370 gaming pro carbon CPU - 9900k RAM - G.skill tridentZ 3200Mhz GPU - Asus Strix 2080ti SSD - Samsung 850 EVO 250Gb M.2 - Samsung 970 EVO plus NVMe 500Gb PSU - seasonic focus plus platinum 850W CPU cooler - Corsair H115i RGB PLATINUM 280mm AIO Got 3 Corsair ML RGB fans connected too, and a fan hub and the RGB controller that comes with the Corsair stuff and it's in a corsair case... not that it matters, it's a 500D. and the Screen is an Asus with G-syinc... I'm adding all this because I'm very desperate. Last note... it does not buzz (the VRM area near IO) when I bench in Cinebench or FurMark, but it does in 3Dmark. Again, the PSU, GPU, CPU, and MOBO got RMA'd, everything came back working and no noise was reported.RAM got changed, cables got changed. I would be very thankful for any help, I don't know what to do and I have a $3000 netflix watching brick on my desk. Listen in a higher volume, I recorded it not so great... but trust me, it sounds like a taser. opened and closed case.
  23. I am hoping to get some advice here to track down a potential ground loop, or serious source of EMI/RFI (not sure if conducted or radiated). I figured there are some techie folks on here so maybe I can get some advice. I have a host of non destructive computer and peripherals related problems. The issue manifest as input lag (mouse, keyboard), degraded sound quality (muddied, and shallow sound), degraded wireless (throughout the house) and wired internet performance, screen artifacts (noise), and degraded display (hitching, tearing). I have confirmed that it is not hardware related: 4 different PC's (Windows 8.1, Windows 10, and 1 laptop (Windows 7) 3 Monitors Multiple Keyboards, Mice, Headphones, Speakers Multiple Modems, Routers, and all new cables (shielded and non- shielded Ethernet and Display port cables do help slightly I believe. Observations: Using different circuits and configurations (power strips, or conditioners) around the house which changes the input delays and performance. Moving cables away from each other helps even data cables are messing with each other. Placing a phone on PC makes the mouse sensitivity feel two times as fast. Placed ferrite cores and toroids onto data, and power cables changes mouse tracking, sound and display quality, and internet performance. Different power strips, Gold and Platinum rated PSUs, a Furman power conditioner, and a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS. UPS does something makes the input latency better, and the power conditioner helped for a few days. The power conditioner helped the most with the sound and display issues. Seems to be better at night but only slightly. When an appliance in the home is switched on the amount of data latency, input lag and display issues amplifies. Any setting in Windows or BIOS changes how the mouse preforms (power settings, and fans speeds do the most), however after some time it seems to degrade back to the same point. Wifi in the home continually cuts out and some weird stuff like if my modem and router are one the same power strip the Wifi will not work. Desktop PCs connected to Wifi even two feet away from router makes the input latency lower however there is full one second stutters in games, browsers and video streams. Used my PC at a friends house in another city and it works perfectly fine, night and day from my setup at home. I am actually shocked at how much deeper sound, colors and consistency of mouse tracking is compared to at my house. I have had the power company out twice, and had two electricians check my grounding, neutrals, and outlets. All come clean. I poked around with an AM radio and while there are some sources of noise around the house, nothing stands out. My laptop on battery works better at random times yet still has the same issues. Found several posts relating to the issue and it seems they all observe the same symptoms: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1055893-power-issues-can-cause-input-latency-issues/ https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3641 https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/bafhfe/update_after_years_of_mouse_input_lag_and_other/ http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16546-Major-input-lag-caused-by-Power-issues-in-House I have tried a few power conditioners (Furman) that work pretty good for a day or two then its back to the same old degraded quality. I believe this is similar to what I have seen with ferrite and toroid cores in that they seem to saturate and once they do the filtering qualities are pretty much gone. Now this is where it gets interesting. I have a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS which helps a bit with the consistency of inputs and the display quality but ultimately the issue is still entirely there. This does not make much sense if the problem truly stems from the power company but one thing I have noticed is if I pull that plug for my UPS, then for the few minutes I run truly off of battery, everything is perfect. Then when I plug the unit back in the lag comes back fully within a minute- almost like it builds up resistance or something. I believe what is happening here is by unplugging the unit (UPS) I am effectively floating the ground which seems to be the source of the issues here. In a double conversion unit like mine the only thing that is not filtered is that passed through connection to ground. I have spoken to other folks with Online UPS and this very problem and they say the exact same thing. Now I am not sure how the ground connection could be faulty in some way, and simultaneously measure clean at the panel (verified with two electricians using a clamp meter). After reading several posts about this very issue and seeing first hand how ferrite cores, moving cables, and power conditioners etc affect it I have concluded that it is indeed an electrical noise issue in my home or from the power pole/utility. In the thread on r/buildapc some of the comments stated it is likely an issue with grounding. I am wondering if maybe an Isolation Transformer, or just lifting (floating) the ground would solve it. If there is anyone that is knowledgeable in these areas of either breaking groundloops, or at least finding them, or dealing with finding sources of EMI and finding out what frequencies I need to filter please let me know. I understand any skepticism about what I have posted here as it seems absurd to me as well but it is the truth and I would love to know what the cause is and how it can affect digital devices in these ways. Thanks
  24. I am hoping to get some advice here to track down a potential ground loop, or serious source of EMI/RFI (not sure if conducted or radiated). I figured there are some techie folks on here so maybe I can get some advice. I have a host of non destructive computer and peripherals related problems. The issue manifest as input lag (mouse, keyboard), degraded sound quality (muddied, and shallow sound), degraded wireless (throughout the house) and wired internet performance, screen artifacts (noise), and degraded display (hitching, tearing). I have confirmed that it is not hardware related: 4 different PC's (Windows 8.1, Windows 10, and 1 laptop (Windows 7) 3 Monitors Multiple Keyboards, Mice, Headphones, Speakers Multiple Modems, Routers, and all new cables (shielded and non- shielded Ethernet and Display port cables do help slightly I believe. Observations: Using different circuits and configurations (power strips, or conditioners) around the house which changes the input delays and performance. Moving cables away from each other helps even data cables are messing with each other. Placing a phone on PC makes the mouse sensitivity feel two times as fast. Placed ferrite cores and toroids onto data, and power cables changes mouse tracking, sound and display quality, and internet performance. Different power strips, Gold and Platinum rated PSUs, a Furman power conditioner, and a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS. UPS does something makes the input latency better, and the power conditioner helped for a few days. The power conditioner helped the most with the sound and display issues. Seems to be better at night but only slightly. When an appliance in the home is switched on the amount of data latency, input lag and display issues amplifies. Any setting in Windows or BIOS changes how the mouse preforms (power settings, and fans speeds do the most), however after some time it seems to degrade back to the same point. Wifi in the home continually cuts out and some weird stuff like if my modem and router are one the same power strip the Wifi will not work. Desktop PCs connected to Wifi even two feet away from router makes the input latency lower however there is full one second stutters in games, browsers and video streams. Used my PC at a friends house in another city and it works perfectly fine, night and day from my setup at home. I am actually shocked at how much deeper sound, colors and consistency of mouse tracking is compared to at my house. I have had the power company out twice, and had two electricians check my grounding, neutrals, and outlets. All come clean. I poked around with an AM radio and while there are some sources of noise around the house, nothing stands out. My laptop on battery works better at random times yet still has the same issues. Found several posts relating to the issue and it seems they all observe the same symptoms: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1055893-power-issues-can-cause-input-latency-issues/ https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3641 https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/bafhfe/update_after_years_of_mouse_input_lag_and_other/ http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16546-Major-input-lag-caused-by-Power-issues-in-House I have tried a few power conditioners (Furman) that work pretty good for a day or two then its back to the same old degraded quality. I believe this is similar to what I have seen with ferrite and toroid cores in that they seem to saturate and once they do the filtering qualities are pretty much gone. Now this is where it gets interesting. I have a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS which helps a bit with the consistency of inputs and the display quality but ultimately the issue is still entirely there. This does not make much sense if the problem truly stems from the power company but one thing I have noticed is if I pull that plug for my UPS, then for the few minutes I run truly off of battery, everything is perfect. Then when I plug the unit back in the lag comes back fully within a minute- almost like it builds up resistance or something. I believe what is happening here is by unplugging the unit (UPS) I am effectively floating the ground which seems to be the source of the issues here. In a double conversion unit like mine the only thing that is not filtered is that passed through connection to ground. I have spoken to other folks with Online UPS and this very problem and they say the exact same thing. Now I am not sure how the ground connection could be faulty in some way, and simultaneously measure clean at the panel (verified with two electricians using a clamp meter). After reading several posts about this very issue and seeing first hand how ferrite cores, moving cables, and power conditioners etc affect it I have concluded that it is indeed an electrical noise issue in my home or from the power pole/utility. In the thread on r/buildapc some of the comments stated it is likely an issue with grounding. I am wondering if maybe an Isolation Transformer, or just lifting (floating) the ground would solve it. If there is anyone that is knowledgeable in these areas of either breaking groundloops, or at least finding them, or dealing with finding sources of EMI and finding out what frequencies I need to filter please let me know. I understand any skepticism about what I have posted here as it seems absurd to me as well but it is the truth and I would love to know what the cause is and how it can affect digital devices in these ways. Thanks
  25. I literally just made this account to ask this question before I trash this cord. Since out of the blue today my original Xbox One console has been shutting off and having trouble turning on. Ive deduced it to be a problem within either the power cord or power supply. When I plug in the cord from the supply to the console, it shuts off, however the power supply itself seems to have no issues, since when plugged into any outlet it turns bright orange as it should. Im asking if its maybe an issue within the power supply itself, I have tools to open it and engineering friends who can help, or whether if its a problem with the cord, which can easily be replaced. Or both, which both can be replaced
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