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Hello I need a little help deciding what to go with building a custom hard line set up. I'm using a new amd am5 chip, the only things I really care about aesthetically is id like to use a reservoir with rgb and maybe use frosted hardline tubing. I'm not interested in a aio I want something that looks really cool. Is there a pc part picker like website I can easily layout everything I'll need to order? Specs Amd Ryzen 9 7900X3D ASUS Prime 650 Plus Thermaltake tower 500

Does anyone have experience replacing seals or aware of standard sizing? I bought a GTX 1080 founders edition with EK water block fitted, EK supremacy intel water block, 240mm and 120mm copper rads, reservoir and d5 pump and the seals I can see are quite work where they seem to just sit flush with the surface they meant to be sealing. I’d like to replace what seals I can on the fittings and gpu water block. For the water lock a 2mmx143mm seems to be the right size as I estimated the old o-ring at something like 450mm long. For the fittings the old seals seem to be shaped rather than o rings but I think o rings should still work. I measured 11.2mm internal diameter, 16.2mm external diameter and a height of 1.2mm so thinking 2mmx11mm o rings will work. for the tubing I think the sizing is 3/8”x5/8”

right now in my region the price of those 240mm aio is the same which one should i get for I5 13600k?

I recently got a new A4-H2O and migrated a lot of my old components to the new case, and I’m really liking it so far! However, one thing I did appreciate about the old case was that the power button had LEDs in it that would take on a sort of ‘breathing’ pattern when it fell asleep. This was nice since I would forget whether or not I turned the computer off or put it to sleep the last time I used it. The A4-H2O has been great, but it has been the slightest inconvenience not having that LED there. The AIO I picked up for the build is an EK RGB model since it’s the best deal I could find. That got me wondering, though, if there was some way I would be able to replicate that sleep breathing through the pump RGB. Where it would just stay white while on, and then do the breathing if it went to sleep. Unfortunately, I’m not quite well-versed enough in RGB stuff to know if that’s even a possibility, so I figured I’d ask about it. The AIO has a VDG and a J-Rainbow connector (hope that’s what those are called), but I don’t know if somehow connecting those to the Power LED pins would work, or if this would be something better taken care of in some kind of software. Obviously this is the most minute of problems and I can usually tell pretty quickly if it’s asleep or not by just pressing some keys, but I figured if there’s a way to get that functionality back without jumping through too many hoops then it would be neat to try

Just looking for some tips in regards to picking fittings to use with this distro. I watched a few videos and with that have decided to use push fittings with this distro for ease of use and long-term maintenance. However, I was wondering if anyone could post some pictures close ups of what extensions are being used and how they are connected. I can't seem to find any super close ups and I need to visualise this to have a better understanding. Please and thanks if you can provide such pictures. Any other things I should know as well? Jot them down below if you think it worth while.

So my EK AIO killed a fan header (1A) i did only run the pump on the header, and also the pump was not at max speed How could this happen? well it turns out that EK thought it was a good idea to make it ARGB 12v meaning that the bling was pulling power from the PWM header...

Greetings everyone, After months of waiting for parts I was finally able to asseble my first custom water cooled build, while I was pretty pleased with the estetic result, as soon as I started to actually use it I've noticed a few things that had me wonder if everything was alright. My main problem is the temperature of the coolant, it can reach 50°C while I game and 40°C on a 30 minute CPU intensive task, which is something that rings an alarm in my head as my 3 rads should be able to dissipate a 250W 13900KF more than fine, but my coolant temp are gaining 10°C in 30 min, also the facts it takes a good 10 minutes to go from 50°C back under sub 40°C while idling only makes me wonder more. To provide some data, here are the specs of my PC: And here is the cooling: I'll also leave some pictures so you can see my loop: My loop order is Pump > Side Rad > Top Rad > CPU > GPU > Bottom Rad > Pump. I've been told that I'm running the CPU block in inverted flow and that it would have been better to not run the GPU with both inlet and outlet on the same side, but the temps of those components are not anything unusual so I dont think that's an issue, also because clearly heat is being dumped in the loop really well. While I idle or do simple task the temps are not a problem, my loop stays around 35°C with my room at around 28°C, but if I want to game I have to turn the AC on at 25°C so the coolant temp wont go over 50°C. In game I'll usually average 65/70°C on the CPU and 60-65°C on the GPU, depending on the titles it can go a bit up or down, but the coolant always reach 48°C at least. Bottom fan is intake while side and top are exhaust, I've been told to flip the side rad fans but I'd have to tear down the whole system to do it so I'm waiting on more opinions before I modify my setup. I've done some test to show how bad is the problem. This is the situation after a 10 minute run of Cinebench R23 + FurMark 1080p windowed, I've resetted the counters before starting. Room was with AC on at 25°C. I've also managed to take some pictures with a FLIR camera, not an expensive one but I hope they can be useful. These are before starting the stress test, while the loop was at 32°C. While these are taken at the end of the test, by the time I removed the front panel the coolant went already at 50°C. Pump is locked at 3.3K RPM and fans at 1250RMP. I'm looking for any possible advice, my 2 options right now are to flip the side fans or replace the temp sensor, because I have a feeling this one might have got the cable damaged while assembling the loop. Or that it's reporting false temps because of its position, it's on the reservoir but it's getting hot air from the bottom rads + heat from the pump motor, so it might be reporting bad temps under load just because of the heat going against it because the tubes dont seem to be super hot, totally very warm but I'd expect them to be hotter if it was really 50°C inside it. I've also disabled the ASUS CPU boost stuff and set a -0.08 offset, but the situation is still the same. Which is a shame because I feel like I've got really lucky with the silicon lottery, this thing was able to pull 400W and score 41k on R23. Please help me figure out this heat problem otherwise I think this system is doomed to melt itself. Another issue with this system is that it's almost undrainable, right now I've moved the valve on the bottom of the GPU but when I originally had it on the bottom of the reservoir, it would just drain the res without a single drop leaving the rads, tubes and block. How could I make draining it a bit easier without the need of blowing into it? The pump was dead silent while it was running with EK Loop cleaner and then the superflush, but it got a bit loud right after I finished installing windows. Now if I put it on full speed it does a strange sound, almost like sand going thru it, but there is no air in the system, it's been running for a week now with almost never being shut down and also twisted on all sides multiple times. Thanks in advance to whoever might be able to help me with this mess, definetly feel like I wanted to overdone it for my first watercooled build and now I'm paying the price of the small case.

I HAVE AIO EK 360 BASIC, AND 3 FAN ARCTIC P12 FAN? SO CAN I INSTALL 3 FAN ARCTIC P12 ON EK360 BASIC? WISH IT REDUCES THE PERFORMANCE OF AIO WHEN INSTALLING 3 FANS DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER'S FAN (VARDAR S)?

Deciding on the cooler is hard, what's even harder when there's not much content online on what your looking for. I am looking to get a AIO CPU cooler and I have been recommended the Corsair H150i iCUE elite capilex. I can't find any good comparisons on how this cooler performs against the EK 360 Elite D-RGB or the Arctic freezer II 360. I have heard ML fans on the Corsair are loud. Basically I'm looking to cool a i7 - 12700K under normal workloads (gaming and ANSYS )

Budget (including currency): $5,000+ Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: It should easily do anything that I ask it to do! Elden Ring, Cyberpunk 2077, Valve Index VR Other Details This project has been over a year in the making. AMD Ryzen 9 5950X EVGA FTW 3 3080ti Asus X570 Crosshair viii Hero (WiFi) 32GB G. Skill Trident Z Neo 16-19-19-39 1 TB WD Black SN 850 NVME boot drive 2 TB Samsung 980 Pro NVME 2-2 TB Seagate Barracuda HDD in Raid1 EK Quantum front and active back GPU water blocks EK Quantum Momentum CPU water block Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL with vertical GPU mount EK Quantum Reflection front distribution plate 3- Hardware Labs Black Ice 360GTS 30mm radiators 10- EK Vardar 120 mm RGB fans F*** Ton of Primochill RSX fittings, rotaries, elbows, extensions etc. 1- EK Quantum 90° rotary elbow Lots of Primochill 1/2" rigid tubing CableMod custom CPU, GPU, 24pin Primochill VUE Powder Blue Uncountable hours of stress, annoyance, time spent waiting for a GPU, blood, sweat, tears, and of course utter and complete despair. I started ordering parts for this build in January 2021 which turned out to be a bad idea. My first mock-up and install of everything didn't post for some reason. Originally, I had intended to go with a AMD Ryzen 5 5600X, but got trapped in the NewEgg shuffle attempting to find a GPU and ended up with a 5950X that I paid too much for and can't recoup my money for. I was able to find everything immediately except for my GPU. Sometime around June, I got fed up and paid (at the time) scalper pricing for my EVGA FTW3 3080ti through ebay. After that, I had to wait for EK's delivery times from Europe, and then I got overwhelmed by the scope of the water-cooling project, so I delayed another month or so. The initial build went great! I had the stock cooler that came with the 5600X plus the GPU was air-cooled from the factory. I was able to flash my BIOS easily (thank you ASUS!), and never had a hint of a problem posting. I was initially using the Fractal Design Flex B-20 PCIe 3.0 x 16 vertical GPU adapter with the BIOS setting for the GPU (PCIE 4 vs 3) set to automatic. I initially tested the post using an Nvidia Geforce GTX 970, but I never had problems getting the 3080ti to work using the PCIe 3 cable. Windows 10 Pro installed easily on the WD Black SN850, and the system worked perfectly! I then did a rough assembly with everything air-cooled until I could get all of my water blocks and fittings delivered. Everything was perfect for a couple of months! I finally got all of the water blocks from EK. And postponed the water install because I was playing Sekiro... But, I did finally tear everything (all blocks and fittings) fully apart to thoroughly clean with Primochill SystemSoap. Then to bending tubes. The Top Radiator, both CPU, and the front GPU tubes were all rather simple. I ended up purchasing the Lian Li Vertical GPU mount for the O11 DXL with the PCIe 4.0 cable and using it instead of the Fractal Design which forced me to nest the Bottom/Sided Radiator tubes right against the fans. There is no aditional clearance whatsoever. The loop goes from the Distro --> Bottom Rad --> EK Loop Connect flow meter --> Side Radiator --> EK filter --> Distro. The connection from Side Radiator --> Distro was a pain in my a**! I ended up going with a 30° Elbow, and it still required quite a bit of force on the tube. The back of the GPU was also a b****. I had to do an immediate 90° drop down about 20mm to another 90° in order to clear the RAM. I also threw an EK Temperature Sensor behind the GPU here. Then it goes to a 180° rotary to get us back to the Distro. This is when I realized that I had a really bad leak using my Bykski Air Pressure Meter. So I took each component out of the chassis again testing each time to see that I still had a massive leak. After taking every component out, I came to the realization that either I am completely incompetent or my Pressure Tester was jacked. Sure enough putting the tester directly into a Shut Off Valve proved that it was the tester itself all along. This annoyance and frustration left me to postpone any further efforts for a few weeks as I waited for an EK leak tester to arrive. This brings us to now. I have been putting the components in one at a time and testing as I go. I have the Front Distro Plate, Side Radiator, and Bottom Radiator all fully installed and leak-free!!!!! My GPU is a different story. I have a TINY leak somewhere. When testing, I slowly lose air over about 30 hours. Within the first 15 minutes, I probably drop about 0.025 bar, maybe less. I am currently talking with EK support about the best course of action. I would prefer to not have to tear the GPU blocks off and apart, but I think that is where this is all going to end up. All along, I've been struggling with the cable management. All in, I've got the CableMod CPU, GPU, and 24 Pin 10 - fan cables 10 - 12v 4 pin RGB 5 - 5v 3 pin RGB 2 - SATA 1 - Molex pump power 1 - flow meter 1 - loop temperature sensor And all of the front panel The O11's hot-swappable bays are amazing, and made the HDD's install a breeze. This chassis in general is terrific to work in. The channel for cable management is huge, and it held my massive bundles easily. Honestly, I could have done nothing and just covered the Rat's Nest with the included cable hiding wall, and nobody would be the wiser. My biggest trouble spot was getting the front panel cables to squeeze around the Side Radiator and fans. You can fit a 30mm radiator and a 25mm fan in the back, but it is very tight; the back panel may bulge a tad. I ended up having to get three Cooler Master 5-way RGB Splitters as well as one SilverStone PWM fan hub. All in, I'd say I was routing, rerouting, threading, bundling, tieing cables down, and cursing my life choices for about 3 hours. I'm satisfied with the result even though it almost looks the same.

Budget (including currency): $5,000+ Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: It should easily do anything that I ask it to do! Elden Ring, Cyberpunk 2077, Valve Index VR Other Details This project has been over a year in the making. AMD Ryzen 9 5950X EVGA FTW 3 3080ti Asus X570 Crosshair viii Hero (WiFi) 32GB G. Skill Trident Z Neo 16-19-19-39 1 TB WD Black SN 850 NVME boot drive 2 TB Samsung 980 Pro NVME 2-2 TB Seagate Barracuda HDD in Raid1 EK Quantum front and active back GPU water blocks EK Quantum Momentum CPU water block Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL with vertical GPU mount EK Quantum Reflection front distribution plate 3- Hardware Labs Black Ice 360GTS 30mm radiators 10- EK Vardar 120 mm RGB fans F*** Ton of Primochill RSX fittings, rotaries, elbows, extensions etc. 1- EK Quantum 90* rotary elbow Lots of Primochill 1/2" rigid tubing CableMod custom CPU, GPU, 24pin Primochill VUE Powder Blue Uncountable hours of stress, annoyance, time spent waiting for a GPU, blood, sweat, tears, and of course utter and complete despair. To be continued...

CPU: 5600x Cooler: Gammax 400xt Ambient temperature: 22-31 degree Celsius Idle temp: 30-40 degree Celsius Temp on cinebench r23 all core load: 80degree Celcius I have tuned my pbo2.0 settings to allow 4.75ghz boost during all core load (peak voltage 1.35V). Will upgrading to the EK 240mm aio be worth the investment? What temps should I expect once I upgrade?

Sorry if I’m just being really dumb right now. I’m trying to leak test my first custom loop but I can’t figure out how to plug the pump into the PSU. I’m using this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-classic-dp-front-pc-o11d-d-rgb-spc-pwm and the header coming off it is a 4-pin that goes into a fan header on the MB (not sure if that’s the standard so I’m mentioning it) and obviously that port is female. I searched around and found out it’s supposed to go into a 4-pin to molex power cable and that plugs into the PSU but the cable my PSU came with is also female on the 4-pin side so I don’t know how to plug it in. I’ve checked all over for any other cables but there isn’t any that will help, only other cable is the 4-pin male to female extension cable included with the distro plate, but obviously that’s still giving me the same issue. Here’s photos of both cables so it’s hopefully easier to understand:

Hi! Kinda at a loss at this point. I have a new 3080 ti that I am trying to watercool with a EK waterblock. When I have the waterblock on I get little to know performance from the GPU and boot issues. When I have the stock cooler on, everything runs completely normal. My gut tells me its either a short from the block or the card not recognizing the fans and throttling speed. Has anyone else run into this issue? This is my first watercooling build so maybe there is something I need to change in bios? I reached out to EK before purchasing this block and I was told at the time that it was compatible. Here are the specific parts - EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RE RTX 3080/3090 GPU Water Block, Revision 2, Digital-RGB, Nickel/Plexi - ZOTAC GAMING GeForce RTX 3080 Ti AMP Holo

Hi please can someone help me figure out what fitting i need to complete this. currently using EK quantum 16mm 90, with extenders and a 16mm fitting on the distro. Does such a fitting exist that would bridge the gape between these 2 ? or replace the fitting in the distro?

Hey all, just re watching some old ltt vids while doing some cad work here in sunny Osaka, and I'm on the prepping for 10gigabit internet video 2 Jan 2019, at about 14 mins it's suggested by the man the myth the legend Linus himself about watercooling the entire server room. Did this idea go anywhere or is it in process? It would be a great multi part video. And as above it was suggested by Linus backed by Jake in the vid. Any thoughts? Cheers all now back to work

Hi, I recently built my 1st simple open loop water cooling with only the CPU for now, A friend of mine told me that there is a possibility that air with accumulate inside the loop or hot water will expand or blow the loop or whatever physics will do. Getting the valve in my country is hard, I need to order it thru Amazon and take many days, so it important? I have EK S360 Classic kit. thanks,

Its brand new, cracks on the far side near the CPU not near the fittings. Should i be worried?

Hi, I have an open loop with 360ml EK classic radiator, thinking of getting another radiator to cool my 9700K @5.2ghz. My current open loop set up is as below: Pump out Rad in Rad out Block in Block out Pump in 2nd rad set up option: Pump out 1st rad in 1st rad out Block in Block out 2nd rad in 2nd rad out Pump in This option would cool the water coming into the pump. Can my entry level pump handle this? EK SPC 160 with 250L\hour flow rate Thought?

Hi, I have entry level EK S360 water cooling kit and my wife want to gift me something to upgrade it, what to upgrade? Which components is the most important? 1- EK-Classic Pump Reservoir 160 SPC PWM 2- EK-CoolStream Classic SE 360 Radiator 3- other and what your recommend as a replacement? Thanks

Hi, I never built an open loop water cooling system before so I have few questions please. Thinking of getting EK-Classic Kit S360 D-RGB Triple 120mm Liquid Cooling Kit as its supposed to be for noobs. My questions: 1- Do I need to get anything more, or this kit has all I need, I know I have to get Fluid Concentrate for coloring (https://citycenter.jo/gaming/gaming-diy-water-cooling/ek-cryofuel-250ml-solid-electric-purple-fluid-concentrate) 2- Should this kit fit in my Mif tower case (Asus Tuf GT501) 3- Will these fittings work fine as I need more 90 degrees angled fittings (https://citycenter.jo/computer-hardware/computer-hardware-components/components-fan-and-heatsink/fan-and-heatsink-custom-liquid-cooling/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-nickel?sort=p.price&order=DESC) 4- How to mix the EK-CryoFuel Clear Concentrate with the coloring I want to buy in point 2? any other advices? thanks,

Hi, which one do you recommend for 9700K @5.2ghz as both are priced the same NZXT X73 EK-Classic Kit S360 D-RGB Triple 120mm Liquid Cooling Kit thanks,

Hey guys, I have just a quick question. I've just installed 2x EK Quantum Vector 3090 FE waterblocks, and the bottom one of the two appears to have what I assume are bubbles trapped between the acrylic and the plate. Here's a photo of what I've spotted. Is this normal/okay? I know there's been a few bubbles in the system and that they will take a few days to clear out, I just wanted to make sure there's not a fault with the block. Also, here's a couple shots of the whole setup for bants: Please excuse the mix of tubing - long story short I had the wrong fittings but basically this weekend I will be replacing all the clear tubing with ZMT (and redoing some different run paths, I can already pick out some better routes). Here's a shot of it before the water cooling (temps were not viable...) So far the temps (in the water cooling) have the vram temps at about 74c (down from 106 in aircooled) and the GPU die sits around 62c under a rendering load. CPU sits around 60-70C when rendering (5900x). This is my first ever custom loop and will be an ongoing project. Machine is used for rendering with Octane and Redshift hence the GPU horsepower.

I have installed the EK AIO into my system (previouslly i had a thermaltake AIO installed that worked perfectly). This issue is that on each bootup the Mobo is not detecting the EK water pump and not starting the pump untill around 30 seconds after Windows starts. The CPU in that time reaches around 203F (95C). I have the water pump connected to CPU_OPT header (the same header as the previous AIO pump was connected to that worked fine). Does anyone have any ideas as to why this could be happening? Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Pro Wifi (bios: F33h) AIO: EKWB EK-AIO 360 D-RGB thanks

Look this is my new rig i did it with spare parts from different pc Here is the part list: win 10 pro 64 bits asus prime a z390 i7 9700k at 5.0 ghz samsung evo 970 500gb m.2 WD 500 gb m.w2 250 kinston ssd 500gb t force vulcan ddr4 32gb at 3200MHz CL16 WD 1tb mecanic hard drive ekwb velocity water block evga rtx 2070 super xc corsair 4000D case white corsair x series g1/4 fittings corsair hydro x series xg7 gpu cooler 1 Chinese 240 mm rad 1 corsair 2040 mm rad repurposed from a corsair aio 120 mm Chinese rad 2 corsair high pressure fans 2500 rpm 2 corsair fans 1200 rpm 1 Chinese fan 1200 rpm umbrella t virus blue water reservoir 1 Fosa water pump + reservoir white cosair xl5 coolant clear blue vegetal color and still getting 80 c max on cinebench 23 (9786 score) so any tips