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Hello, I needed to decultter my PC and decided to back everything up and reset my PC as it was having issues for a while. I reset my PC and waited for the wipe to happen. Upon the reset I noticed that it didn't go to the normal windows start screen but it tried to log in my old user account( with my Zelda login background, which is what struck me as odd) I tried to enter my pin bur got the message " user can't be logged in" or something to that effect. I can't do anything now, I've tried troubleshooting, I've tried booting from a USB with media creation tool on it. I've tried safeboot and have even tried to wipe the system again with no luck. Does anybody have any idea what messed up or the best way to fix or wipe things and start fresh?

I recently purchased a new 2 TB SSD for my game library. I previously had games spread out on my previous 4 drives. I would like to wipe both 120 gb SSD's for a fresh slate on both of them. However, on Disk 3 used to have my windows 10 installation. I added a M.2 later and re-installed windows there, and later upgraded to windows 11. It appears that the system reserved and recovery partitions stayed behind on the old drive and are Active. Can I format disk 3 safely without borking my system? Also, I don't know why my M.2 has so many recovery partitions... TIA

I've acquired an old pc from a relative - Athlon II x2 250 (iirc) upgraded to have 8gb of DDR3 and replaced the PSU. TrueNAS Core has been installed on a 256GB SSD and I have two old laptop HDDs; a 1TB and 500GB. In setting things up and testing, one of these HDD died, and the other errored when trying to import it so I think using them is out of the question. What I want to achieve is a NAS that can be remote accessed and doesn't need to be on 24/7. (btw this is the first time doing this, so if im doing something stupid, then let me know ヾ(•ω•`) ) So what I need is some new drives - they can only be SATA 2.5"/3.5". Interms of data to backup, the current required capacity is around 750-850GB and will increase over time but idk how fast. The first question: HDDs or SSDs? In the UK, a 2TB HDD is around £45-50; 1TB SSDs can be as low as £35 (no cache probably QLC), or minimum £55 with cache; 2TB SSDs start around £70 (no cache probably QLC again). The second question: redundency? The answer is yes, but how to go about it? I'm assuming I should buy atleast 2 drives and use something like RAID 1? Ideally, I don't want to spend more than £100 on drives, but please let me know what you think would be most appropriate. Thanks in advance. kartelious

Hi all, so I was about to pull the trigger on a NAS for our small office. But I noticed that the drives included in this B&H Photo bundle w/ the DS923+ and 4x8TB Seagate IronWolf NAS Drives (SEST8000VN4) are not on the "approved/compatibility" list, and in fact there are almost 0 drives that are on this list. So what gives and what will happen by not using "approved" drives? Thanks!

Hey, need help, at wits end with this. There is a bit of a back story to this, I can elaborate if needs be. *Long story short, I pre-ordered a game from Microsoft Store, installed it and discovered it went onto my C:Drive (Samsung 970Pro 500GB), so I moved it to my E:Drive (new Crucial P2 M.2 1TB). Came to boot the game launch day and it wouldn't fire up without Administrative rights and disconnected from the internet. After struggling I uninstalled gaming services and MSStore, reinstalled them both and reinstalled the game onto the E:Drive (where I set new apps to go) yet the same issue came up. I played the game for a while and finally decided that I actually wanted to play it online and with the content I payed for so I had another go and finally I got to where I am now. I've been battling with this game, Microsoft and Windows since its release on 5th Nov and there's a lot more to it than explained above, about 4 days of struggling, I've been troubleshooting FH5 recently and finally figured out step 1 of my problem, so the heavy lifting is now complete. I had 2 copies for the same game in separate drives stopping the game from playing as they conflicted. I used the wsreset.exe to reset the store cache, deleted both copies of the game from both drives (C+E) and rebooted. Adjusted where new files get saved too (changed to E:Drive) had previously formatted my E:Drive in an earlier attempt) Came to reinstall the game and I keep getting 2 errors - 0x803FB107 and 0x80070070 - One of these is a Disk Space error, like the MSStore is trying to place something into the C:Drive which is the only drive in my system with less than 102GB in it despite me telling it to go to E:Drive. the other is a code that occurs because (I assume) of the disk space error. I can attach various screenshots of the issues I was having beforehand in case that helps. But yea. Please help me, I nearly punched my monitor last night as I'm that tired of tinkering with this stuff. (sidenote, just found out it's installed itself again, poorly onto my C:Drive, but it was told to go to the E:Drive) System Specs as follows Windows 10 Home 20H2 64x Intel Core I7 9700K MSI Z390 Carbon AC Corsair Vengeance 8x4(32GB) 3600MHZ MSI RTX3070 EVGA G3 800W Samsung M.2 970 Pro 500GB Crucial P2 M.2 1TB Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM

I've tried reinstalling windows today on my raid0 configuration formed by two m.2 970 500GB evo drives but I've gotten many issues with it. As soon as I tried installing windows on the unmounted drive, I got error message 0xC0000005, after i tried mounting the drive and formatting to ntfs and making sure it was GPT, but as as a mounted drive it says "we couldn't create a new partition or locate an existing one. For more information see the Setup log files." after that I've even tried deleting the raid configuration, and installing windows on a single drive, I've tried both, neither of them worked. I've also tried every "fix" i could find whilst looking up the error messages i got but nothing fixed it. I've reset my motherboard's CMOS and nothing. Now I'm desperate :I I'm currently using 32 GB 3200 MHz (4x8) ddr4, I7 9700k Please, anyone who even think they MIGHT know anything that could help, reply to this thread.

Hi, I'm not so much having trouble but was just wondering instead. I plan to get a new PC as my current one was a old prebuilt that i upgraded over the past 4/5 years? My plan was to just get a whole new system from a system builder and just move my drives including windows over to the new system and just boot it normally as i am lazy to re-install all my programs, will there be any implications in doing so or am i just overthinking it. Vice Versa for the drive in the new system, can i just move it over to the old machine and boot it normally? Current system: i7-4790 Asus M52AD motherboard (Prebuilt came with this) Generic 16GB 1600Mhz Ram EVGA GTX 1070 120GB & 500GB SSD 1TB HDD New System: Intel CORE I5 11400F Asus Dual RTX 3060 Ti OC 8GB Asus Prime H510M-A/Wifi Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 DRAM 3600Mhz C18 Memory Kit 2x8GB (16GB) - Black (I'm aware the 11400f is 3200Mhz rated but this is just what they had in stock) Teamgroup Elite X2 500GB 2.5" Drive SilverStone ET650-HG 80+ Gold, Semi-Modular (650W) Tecware Forge M Omni ARGB (TG) (Black) Windows 10 Home (unactivated) ID-Cooling SE-224-XT-Black (3Y)

Everyone has been talking about like RAID 1, 0, 5, etc. Now it may seem like a very beginner question, but what the heck is RAID on storage drives? Does it do anything to the speed, heat, or energy? I’m so confused and I’m sorry for the beginner question.

Am coming with some issues after installing an RTX 3060ti into my build. Tried running some games and noticed it was performing about as good as my old 1060 so tried troubleshooting and I didn't see any issues with the gpu. My current setup is an RTX 3060ti paired with an AMD Ryzen 3600 with G.Skill TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 of ram running in XMP with a Gigabyte B550 AORUS Elite. After trying some various things I tried to run UserBenchMark. I found this interesting and the next time I turned my PC on it didn't. Whenever I have to I now have to turn it off and on a few times in order for it to boot. I don't understand as to why as I have a 750W PSU that I had more recently just bought. I am also running two case fans and some LEDs if this helps at all with getting this problem sorted. I appreciate any and all help/advice!

CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 RAM: 2x8GB DDR4-3200 I have updated to the latest BIOS, and this problem still persists where USB 3 drives, be it external HDDs or SSDs, dropout after a couple of minutes whenever I connect more than 3 of them to my PC at the same time. Sometimes it happens with just 2 drives if one of them are connected to the port highlighted white that's next to the USB-C port.

Hello, I have 2 drives in my computer, C drive as HDD (Windows installed in C) and also a D drive as SSD. MY C drive size is 150 GB so i try never to install anything in that drive. My D drive has a storage of 1TB, and i install everything in my D drive. My question is will my pc boot slowly in the future if my D drive is filling up?

I've got a total of nine drives in a server running this PSU and am out of drive power connectors. It has two labelled SATA and one labelled peripherals, so with a three drive adapter I can run nine total. If I want to add extra drives, how can I pull that off without getting another PSU? Can I run more than three drives on a single connector?

In an attempt to upgrade my hardware from ddr3 to ddr4, my pc has ended up not working. Everything inside the pc would run just fine. RAM would have its rgb glow, gpu slotted in, power supply pins in, and sata cables attatched. Everything should be operating just fine, but my motherboard displays a small red light next to the word "BOOT". in the manual, this means the pc cannot find the boot device. This makes no sense as the sata cables are in just fine and all drives have their power too? Everything seems to be operating just fine but I still get this error no matter what I try I'm at a bit of a loss but I need this PC fixed ASAP so I can meet my deadline, any help? specs: RTX 2070 AMD Ryzen 5 3600x MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk wifi Cooler Master Elite v3 600 1tb HDD 256gb SSD

I have recently completed a nas build and am looking forward to getting drive recommendations. Parts that i have - Fractal Design Meshify 2 X470D4U motherboard Ryzen 5 3600 32GB(16x2) Kingston ECC Memory 3200Mhz Cl22 2x Samsung 970 evo plus (500GB) Ultra Fit (16GB) running Unraid (wasn't recognized in unraid tool for windows but worked with a MacOs VM on Virtual Box) My Purpose - Been running 2x Windows 10 VM's PiHole docker PlexMediaServer Docker WireGuard VPN docker I have no fixed storage requirement. With 11x 3.5" drive slots available, i'm probably looking forward to fill all in the coming years. I'll be adding more if need be... I have 3 queries I've been confused between shucking WD MyBooks(max 12TB in my region) for White Labeled drives or Seagate Expansion Desktop(16TB) for Exos x16 drives. What are the odds of finding the above specified drives in the enclosures? A WD retailer that i contacted recently for a sales enquiry said that the company has been sending out external MyBook drives with USB ports built in the PCB and not sata interface... This scared me as hell, so is this true? And if yes, just how safe is Seagate for that matter, have they been doing the same or the shucking legacy continues?

I have been upgrading some specialized systems (upgrading the mobo & OS is not an option) from older drives such as pata/ide/DOM to m.2/sata/DOM (with adapters). Often the challenge is getting sufficient power to the original drive (outside of its original equipment) to be able to clone it. Most any connector can be adapted to sata. The only meter that i can find which inline meters the amperage draw of a sata power port is the passmark inline power supply tester for $350. I can pick up a nifty little inline usb meter for $10. Now i realize that the usb meter is only a single pass of 5v, and that a sata meter (or multiple meters on a single cable) would have to meter 12v, 5v, and 3.3v. I have plugged old drives into adapters thinking that I had killed them (spin up yet unresponsive), or had instability during a cloning, or even had instability of the new drive/adapter in the "now upgraded" system post-clone. I am looking to measure amperage, not just voltage, so it will have to be an inline device which is separately powered. I would prefer to meter the draws of equipment rather than blindly throw a secondary power supply inline and just hope for the best, or perhaps I am being overly cautious. Here is an example: pata drive > 44pin to sata adapter > sata extension > inateck fd2002 > sata extension > 44pin to sata adapter > 44pin gender changer > DOM. offline clones have a higher success rate of the new drive booting, and don't get me started on embedded OS.. removing the lock state, cloning, adjusting partitions, reinitiating the lock state. Any direction on meters, or similar success stories would be appreciated.

Edit - 01/30/2023 Found my issue. The SATA ports I was using apparently decided to "nope" out in between testing and live installation. May have been my mistake, may have been why the board was cheap. We may never know. The title is the TLDR. My E: and F: drives will sometimes 'disappear' from Windows after the system restarts (they do not do this while the system is active, it is only after a restart/shutdown). The read/write to each drive is within spec when cross-referencing Crystal Disk Mark and the manufacturer's claims, and the system experienced no read/write/dismount errors during the 3 sessions of 8 hour testing that I've done trying to ensure drive reliability while they're appearing. EXPLORER, CHKDSK, and DSKMGMT cannot find the drives when they 'disappear' and, when they are appearing, there are no bad sectors/etc. that my testing has discovered. Formatting in both NTFS and exFAT (just because why not try at this point) doesn't change behaviour. My biggest issue with testing and diagnosing this issue is that none of it is entirely repeatable. Sometimes E: and F: appear through multiple restarts, and sometimes they don't appear for multiple restarts. Reseating the SATA data and power cables doesn't always cause them to reappear after a boot. I'm no novice to PC building so I don't think I've messed something up, but human error is always a possibility regardless of potential skill level (or hubris). At this point I'm out of ideas, short of dismembering the entire build, which isn't really something I'm looking forward to with my case (a custom-made skeletonised case based off a standard ATX tray that has a lot of partial coverage of components, making removing something as simple as a drive a 20 minute process of unscrewing layers without scratching something and jamming my sausage fingers into nooks). I've used the case with this board before, so I've verified there's no clearance issues or etc. Testing Information: C: and D: drives function as intended, swapping D:'s SATA to E: or F: seems to make each drive appear reliably. Swapped SATA cables of E: and F: drives. Tested Motherboard/CPU combo before fully building to ensure reliability. Reseated SATA to ensure they were making proper connection. Rerouted SATA cables on the off chance being routed alongside the 24-pin Motherboard power, 6-pin Motherboard supplementary power, and 8-pin GPU power was somehow creating enough electronic interference to cause sporadic registering. Created a custom Power Plan and disabled drive hibernation because desperation. *Cleared CMOS and ran Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool. Computer Specs/Information: (All items were cross-referenced with ASROCK's QVL list) Motherboard: ASROCK AB350 Pro4 (I know, but it was literally 50 USD brand new, on sale) Motherboard BIOS: 7.20 (Beta), released 2022/5/27 (I tried several BIOS iterations before upgrading to this point) RAM/Memory: G.SKILL F4-3200C16D-16GTZB CPU: Ryzen 7 1700 (at stock clocks for now) GPU: Sapphire RX 480 8GB Nitro+ (at stock clocks for now) Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (total system wattage is slightly under 450 watts peak, or 675 watts theoretical if you want to assume the RX 480 8GB is going to have transient spikes which double wattage). Operating System: Windows 10 Professional, fresh install was 2 days ago, build 19045.2130, 64-bit (Currently haven't activated Windows due to this issue but I haven't seen reports that Microsoft limits drives with an un-validated OS) Drive C:: OCZ RADEON-R7SSD-240G Drive D:: WD1003FZEX-00MK2A0 Drive E:: WD1003FZEX-00MK2A0 (yes, it's a separate drive) Drive F:: HDS723030ALA640

Hi, I have an old HP Notebook 15-bs212wm. It's hard drive died a while back and needs a replacement as well as replacements for all the missing screws for the outer shell. I attached a picture of the drive port because I'm not really familiar with what it is. I thought it might be msata but it's got far too few pins for me to think that's the case. In addition, I'd like to go solid state if possible so if anyone knows if they're compatible with this port, let me know. As for the screws, does anyone know of a way to figure out what sizes are right so I don't put one through the PCB? I gave a brief glace at HP's support page for the notebook but haven't dug deep to see if there are screw listings. Any help would be lovely. Thanks.

So my current situation is that i am running out of storage on my WD Black 4TB, Ive noticed best buy has WD Reds on sale, they are Currently Advertising a WD Red 8TB 7200RPM Drive For $194,99. Would this drive be fine to run as a Games Drive, or what are the differences between this WD red and a WD Black. thanks for the info Link to the drive: https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/wd-red-plus-8tb-3-5-7200rpm-sata-iii-nas-internal-hard-drive-wdbavv0080hnc-wrsn/15304526

Drive 1 is a SATA M.2 SSD from one of my laptops It's the only drive that actually fits in that laptop that's why it's the boot drive I had to put my files on now I'm on my main Laptop and I'd like to access those files but I don't really know how I'm using Windows 10 Home and that drive has Windows 10 Home on it too Actually, now that I see this, I'm wondering why my other drive I have Archlinux on doesn't appear, not even in diskpart. (and I don't want to use linux to put those files from one drive on the other because I don't know how to use linux that well yet)

Yesterday (December 14th 2022) I updated my windows, my AMD Adrenaline, and Asus updates (I have an ROG Strix, I think it's called the Hero 2). It worked fine for a couple hours. I then installed Asseto Corsa, to the secondary drive that I am having issues with, it is a Crucial P5 from 2021. After I shutdown my laptop after I installed the game, the next time I turned it on, my drive stopped showing up. I tried reseeding the drive. swapping the drive spot with the boot drive, updating to Windows 11 (even though it hurt to do so) and reinstalling/installing new drivers. I even put the drive in my friend's laptop, which is the same model as mine, and it appeared there, it was just locked behind a bitlocker key that I don't have and isn't associated with my microsoft account somehow, BUT the drive was being detected in windows. The drive is also being detected in my BIOS. Please help me, I have tried everything I could think of and I am coming up short. Also I am not opposed to resetting the drive, all I have on there is games, but I also have my photos I have taken over the last 2 years and I would like to keep those if I could. UPDATE: For some reason, switching the ssd spots physically again after updating to Windows 11 fixed it??? I have no idea why it worked, but it did an I’m happy to have my data back. I also backed up all my photos onto an external drive just in case this is a sign of the ssd dying

My friend was given an old laptop and it has a bitlocker on it. No one seems to know what the key is or how to get it. There are no important files on the drive so I tried to install a fresh windows with the installation media tool, but the tool did not see the drive. What are the next options for restoring the drive.

My secondary, B drive is half full but i cant find the programs that are taking up the space, and the files app tells me all that inhabits it is small folders with a few pictures. Where can I access my drive's actual storage so I can delete what I don't need? Although, I have a 119 gb file in my B drive that takes up half the space, but the other half I can't find what uses it so I can delete it or move it. Help?

Dear LTT, Big fan of your channel, but as I have enountered a roadblock that I cannot overcome, I am hoping that the good pleople here might be able to help. So my felf-buillt system has been running well for years and I have been doing steady upgrades, until I tried out Windows 11.... Here are my specs: OS Name Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Version 10.0.22623 Build 22623 System Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. System Model AB350-Gaming 3 System Type x64-based PC System SKU Default string Processor AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Six-Core Processor, 3400 Mhz, 6 Core(s), 12 Logical Processor(s) BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends International, LLC. F52h, 27/07/2022 SMBIOS Version 3.3 Embedded Controller Version 255.255 BIOS Mode UEFI BaseBoard Manufacturer Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. BaseBoard Product AB350-Gaming 3-CF BaseBoard Version Default string Platform Role Desktop Secure Boot State Off PCR7 Configuration Binding Not Possible Windows Directory C:\WINDOWS System Directory C:\WINDOWS\system32 Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume1 Locale Germany Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "10.0.22621.891" Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 16.0 GB Total Physical Memory 15.9 GB Available Physical Memory 8.70 GB Total Virtual Memory 20.8 GB Available Virtual Memory 7.43 GB Page File Space 4.92 GB Page File C:\pagefile.sys Kernel DMA Protection Off Virtualisation-based security Not enabled Windows Defender Application Control policy Enforced Windows Defender Application Control user mode policy Off Device Encryption Support Reasons for failed automatic device encryption: TPM is not usable, PCR7 binding is not supported, Hardware Security Test Interface failed and the device is not Modern Standby, Un-allowed DMA-capable bus/device(s) detected, TPM is not usable Hyper-V - VM Monitor Mode Extensions Yes Hyper-V - Second Level Address Translation Extensions Yes Hyper-V - Virtualisation Enabled in Firmware No Hyper-V - Data Execution Protection Yes Hours earlier my secondary drives (3xSSD, 1xDVD RW) which are connected via SATA were still working on W10. After upgrading to W11 they are still visible in the BIOS but not in drive manager or the device manager. M2.2 boot drive works fine as before (thnk goodness). There are also no errors in the device manager. Windows Update is up to date. All chipset drivers are up to date. Uninstalling the SATA driver and restarting did not help. Scan disk is clear. BIOS version is the latest. Could TPM / Bitlocker cause this somehow as this is the only think that is different on the drive front with W11? (Boot drive M.2 SSD is now encrypted and still works) Any tips, hints or help would be so very much apprechiated, as I would really like to get my data back without having to revert to W10. Lots of love, Felix

Hi, I just installed a new NVMe m.2 drive and reinstalled Windows.I already have a Samsung SSD 2,5 inch and a WD HDD. When I plugged everything back together I noticed neither BIOS or Windows detecting my HDD and SSD drives anymore. I've checked BIOS settings if the SATA ports were deactivated, replaced the SATA cables, tried every SATA port on the motherboard. Today I bough a external SATA to USB hub to test if the disks were faulty but they show up just fine. Am I missing something? PC spec: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Just upgraded) Kingston A2000 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (The new NVMe) Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply