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I've been working on a new build and I cannot for the life of me get the thing to POST with more than one DIMM installed. With only one memory stick in the rightmost slot I can pretty much always get into the BIOS and can get into Windows 10 as well, but trying any other slot or any combination of 2 or more DIMMs the board gets hung up on a DRAM issue evident by the status LED. So far I have tried: Lexar Hades RGB 3600MHz-CL18 2x8GB (two separate kits, tried all 4 DIMMs) Corsair Vengeance RGB 3000MHz-CL15 4x8GB (all 4 DIMMS, even got the kit RMA'd because 2 DIMMS wouldn't POST at all) Timetec Pinnacle Konduit 3200MHz-CL16 2x16GB (tried both DIMMs) I have reset the CMOS countless times now and just now disassembled the build to examine the CPU socket revealing zero bent pins, which I was hoping would be the issue as it's the only thing that I think would cause this issue. Build Specs are as follows: Intel Core i5-12400F Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black ASRock B760M Pro RS/D4 Intel 670p 1TB Gen3 M.2 SSD EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 FTW3 EVGA 700GD 700W 80+ Gold rated PSU Antec Dark Cube Inverted mATX Chassis

Ok here’s the problem. I have a gigabyte z790 ud motherboard, 2 16gb Corsair vengeance and a rTX 4070 ti. My ram is out in slots 2-4. I go to icue to change the rgb but it shows that the slot 4 dram is the only ram. I checked bois and it sees both. I try but the 2 slot dram to slot 1 and after 3 but whenever I do my gpu won’t display. I put it back into slot 2 and it works but once again not being seen by icue. Please help

Hi I am looking at amazon uk at the moment and have found a "Crucial P3 1TB M.2 PCIe Gen3 NVMe Internal SSD - Up to 3500MB/s - CT1000P3SSD8" for £43.79 I have also found a Kioxia EXCERIA NVMe SSD 1TB PCIe/NVMe 1.3 Gen3x4 2100 MB/s M.2 for £43.98. I know that the rated speed of the Crucial is faster than the Kioxia, but I also saw online that the Kioxia has DRAM which the Crucial does not and some folks have suggested that it is the better buy as a result and that the difference in speed is minimal due to the DRAM prescence. Just wondering what folks thoughts and advice are? Many Thanks

Hi there, would be nice to see an "Updated Version of the now 5-year-old Youtube Video "What Are DRAM-less SSDs?" from the channel " Techquickie", especially on the Topic on SLC Cache. Because a lot of manufacturers now sell them "With SLC Cache now", while leaving out the Dram Cache. (also on NVME M.2 SSDs) And I think "many" don't know what SLC Cache is, and maybe they think, that it resembles a conventional Dram Cache. Another Idea for the Video, if you could talk about "3D Nand", and SLC, MLC, TLC, QLC, and PLC would be nice. (even though you already talked about some of those in another Video.) But all in one in an updated version could be nice I guess.

Hello, I am sure this has been asnwered before but, I am using 4x SK hynix 8gb 1rx8 PC4-2933Y-RD1... in a PC that I am building - nb. this is my first build. The DRam light is on and my monitor does not turn on. is it that the Ram is incompatible with my motherboard or the fact that the BIOS is not up to date. If this is the case please could you instruct me on what to do next? I am using the ROG STRIX b550-f mb with an AMD RYZEN 5500 Thanks

I just bought two more sticks of Corsair Vengeance PRO SL memory. The set I had previously was the exact same as this one, except black instead of white. Both sets are 2x8gb, pc4-25600, 3200mhz, with timings of 16-20-20-38. Even went the extra mile to turn off xmp before installing the new dimms. I entered the bios just to check everything stayed consistent, but noticed the new memory has Samsung as the DRAM MFG ID, whereas the old ram lists Micron. Was wondering if this may cause any issues, or just what this means to begin with. 70224638287__1EE67439-3E0C-4CC3-9E84-54154CD4B903.MOV

ok so i turned on my pc and entered my pin, and it just went straight to a black screen. after a few seconds it just turned off and my screen showed a "display port not found" message. i did it a few times, logging in, and it shutting off, but now it just wont even turn on and there is an orange light next to where it says dram on my mother board. please help im getting scared

(my first build) I turn on my pc for gaming then game then it automatically shuts down after about an hour(I purposely set it that way so that I don't play overtime), Then Sometimes I want to play more so I turn it back on but it doesn't turn on, it loops through cpu and Dram(Lights on my mother board keeps switching to cpu then Dram normally it's supposed to go CPU-Dram-VGA-Boot). I tested it out if i just shut down regularly to see if the force timer shut down was the problem but when I turn on my pc and turn it off right away it turns on fine after, when I launch a game and play for a bit then shut it off it doesn't turn on again. I always have to wait at least 5 or 10 min. Specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X Motherboard: B550 Aorus Pro ATX Ram: 2X 16gb Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3600 speed HDD: Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive GPU: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT Power Supply: Segotep Power Supply, GP Series 80 Plus Gold Certified PSU Gaming Power Supply with Silent 140mm Fan (750W, Fully-Modular) Wifi card: Cudy WE3000 AX 3000Mbps Wireless WiFi 6 PCIe Card for PC

I upgraded to a ryzen 5 5600x and switched to msi b550m mobo. Everything worked perfectly, had no problems for the first day. I remembered I didn’t enable xmp in the bios so I open it up. This was my first time using the msi bios and ignorantly, I selected the second profile preset because I saw it said the dram speed was set to 3200. Save. Starts up again. Now when I boot it flashes the cpu light, the cpu light turns off, then the dram light turns on, than the vga light turns on, the vga light turns off, than the boot light turns on. Both the dram light and boot light stay on until I turn the pc off, but my monitor stays black. Lights turn on and fans spin. I have reseated and removed the gpu. Used onboard graphics with hdmi. Tried using 1 stick of ram (attempted to boot in every slot). I also reset a cmos for the first time. I grounded myself, removed it it for hour and put it back in but same issue. Also tried using the tip of a screw driver to short the two pins near the cmos found by using the manual. I am pretty sure it is just the bios profile I have selected that is giving me my issue. But I dont know how to reset to default. Why doesn’t it read my ram anymore? Thanks, specific board is b550m pro-vdh wifi, ram is corsair vengeance pro 2x8 3200

Looking for the most fitting RAM for my new system. So far it will be an ASUS Crossair VIII Dark Hero with a Ryzen 5950X. I was aiming for 4x8GB 3600MHz DIMMs. Not sure about timings and what brand/model has dual channel though. PC is mostly for gaming, as you guys probably realised already, some tasks I do benefit from a higher thread count (+ I got super lucky with a deal and spend only a little more than for the planned 5800X) Tl;dr: what timings/speed (3600MHz?) you guys think works best with an ASUS Crossair VIII Dark Hero and a 5950X?

(my first build) I turn on my pc for gaming then game then it automatically shuts down after about an hour(I purposely set it that way so that I don't play overtime), Then Sometimes I want to play more so I turn it back on but it doesn't turn on, it loops through cpu and Dram(Lights on my mother board keeps switching to cpu then Dram normally it's supposed to go CPU-Dram-VGA-Boot). I tested it out if i just shut down regularly to see if the force timer shut down was the problem but when I turn on my pc and turn it off right away it turns on fine after, when I launch a game and play for a bit then shut it off it doesn't turn on again. I always have to wait at least 5 or 10 min. Specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X Motherboard: B550 Aorus Pro ATX Ram: 2X 16gb Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3600 speed HDD: Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive GPU: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT Power Supply: Segotep Power Supply, GP Series 80 Plus Gold Certified PSU Gaming Power Supply with Silent 140mm Fan (750W, Fully-Modular) Wifi card: Cudy WE3000 AX 3000Mbps Wireless WiFi 6 PCIe Card for PC

Budget (including currency): Country: Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Does anyone have a 64Gb Dram manufacturer, model, layout recommendation for: Gigabyte Aorus X399 board https://www.newegg.ca/gigabyte-x399-aorus-pro/p/N82E16813145109 It has 8 slots and is quad channel. Processor is: AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X (YD295XA8AFWOF) Processor specs: https://pangoly.com/en/review/amd-ryzen-threadripper-2950x Also how would you recommend the layout with the slots available. i.e. 2 x 16 Gb in slots 1,2 / 2 x 16 Gb in slots 5,6 etc. Im fairly new to building, but really enjoy learning all about it. however advice from experienced builders I have found to be the best route. Different opinions often uncover things that I may not have considered. Thanks all for any insight ~Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt

Which kind of dram is better in SSDs LPDDR4, DDR3, DDR4 ?

I just finishen a new build but when I turneringen it on for the first time the yellow dram qled lights up. I've tried with 1-2-3-4 ram sticks tried different placements tried only I primary slots a2/b2 but I can't seem to get it running. I've also tried to clear the CMOS memory by shorting pin 1&2 on the CLRTC. nothing I do gets me to the bios, I have not video output at all. Do anyone have any ideas or advise I would appreciat it. Specs: Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING CPU = AMD 5800X RAM = KINGSTON HYPERX 32GB 3200MHZ DDR4 I've attached a picture of the qled indicator

Hi, I have the below rig, First time using AMD CPU. 5600X - Bought 3 months ago with the board - was on intel GB Aorus Elite X570 GB Aorus Master 6800XT - 7 months old XPG Core Reactor 850w Gold - Top Tier Rated - 1 year old 2 M.2 Kingston A2000 Everything was working fine until I bought new RAM 1 month ago - Kingston Fury Beat 3733mhz 4x8, my PC started to re-boot randomly once in a day and sometimes 2 days. When I checked the board QVL my RAMs weren't listed so I thought this might be the case, On intel never had such issues with RAM, Im running the ram at XMP1 which is 3600mhz, only tweaked CL from C18 to C16 @1.4v - Today, I changed the voltage to 1.37v I ran multiple stress tests using OCCT, Aida64, windows memtest, and other general test like 3D Mark stability test, R20, R23 for hours with no issues. everything is up to date. Regards, Khader

Can someone please help me fix or understand this, the picture shows the issue

COMPUTER COMPOSITON: MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte X399 Arous Pro REV1.0 with Bios F2 CPU: AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2970WX 24 CORES RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 2 sticks of 16gbs F4-3200C16D-32GTZR GPU: NVIDIA Quadro RTX 4000 PSU: Thermaltake 850W RGB Gold One year old, worked perfectly fine with my 3d applications, no new component was installed. Issue: Computer will not POST, show any video signal on display, fans spin and AMD X399 PRO Chipset LED turns on (the one with an eagle logo).The GPU fans spin, the G.SKILL RGB RAM sticks glow as well. Observation: Observing the motherboard's Status LEDs the CPU status led stays on for about 20 seconds showing code 0d or could be Dd can not make my mind if its a uppercase D or 0(zero). Then it changes to 15, C2, then wraps up with B7 and moves onto the DRAM status led and stays there for the same duration as it did with the CPU status led and ends up only showing the CODE: 07 or D7. It is then SUPPOSED to go to the VGA status led then the BOOT status led and post. BUT it does not, it goes back to the CPU led for about ten seconds then moves on the DRAM again for ten seconds and resumes the cycle again in a never ending loop until I power off the system. When turning it back on it proceeds to do the same thing. What I was doing that led to this issue: It is believed that my computer performed a windows update for security or something got messed up with my account privileges, I have a Logitech Brio 4k webcam that has Windows Hello integrated and when logging in to my account it works perfectly fine. Now when downloading a EXE file or opening a program with administrative privileges the USER ACCOUNT CONFIG dialog box pops up and it usually has the option to press YES or NO as im the only admin. In the past it had the option to click any button, but now it got integrated with Windows Hello for some reason. It would do the Windows Hello thing with my face and confirm it was me but then it would glitch and open the dialog box again right away and confirm it was me again, I would press yes and it would pop up again unless I pressed NO or X it out which led to nothing. Troubleshooting it with Google there was an article that I linked below if it is important, that suggested I went into SAFE MODE and to open it I had to type the command "SHUTDOWN /R /O -T 00" in Command Prompt . The system restarted and took me to the UEFI (Windows Advanced Options), I pressed "Troubleshoot, then "Advanced options", then "Startup Settings" and for safe mode I had to press F7 but it didn't work as I believe that my Logitech Solar Keyboard does not function while the system is in this state, the keyboard is wireless with its own 2ghz usb adapter plugged in the back of the motherboard. The system then displayed a totally black screen and I know it is suggested to not turn off a computer when its in the UEFI or BIOS abruptly as it can have consequences. I proceeded to plug in my Bluetooth mouse with its usb cable to see if I could use hardwire mouse input, which I only plug in for charging it. When doing so the system turned off completely and now I can no longer get an image on the screen. I believed that the BIOS might've gotten corrupted so I decided to do the following and none of them worked, I ended up rebuilding the computer again and nothing still What I attempted; 1. Turning off and unplugging the power cord from the device and clearing the CMOS battery with shorting the pins with a screwdriver as mentioned in the manual did not help (CMOS Jumper). 2. Turning off and unplugging the power cord from the device to remove the CMOS battery and waiting up to a minute with the battery out and placing it back in did not help either. 3. Turning off the device and pressing ONE of the onboard quick buttons on the motherboard each type I turned the system on (PW_SW, RST_SW, CMOS_SW) did not do anything. Also attempted pressing both the PW_SW and CMOS_SW button, did not work either. 4. Turning off the device and reseating the RAM sticks, and also removing one RAM stick changing it to one channel, did not help. *Followed manual as to where to insert the RAM sticks when it is only one, as I have two sticks. 5. Reseating as well the GPU in the same PCIEX16_1 slot, and also changing it to the PCIEX16_2 slot did not help. 6. Removing M.2 NVME SSDs, and TP-Link WIFI/Bluetooth from (PCIEX8_1) from the motherboard. Nothing! 7. Disconnecting and connecting the power supply cables to the ATX_12V_1 and ATX_12V_2 for the CPU. Also tried only having the ATX_12V_1 plugged in. No post still. 8. Disconnecting and connecting the power supply cables to the 24-pin ATX for the motherboard. 9. Removing the GPU and powering on the system without it, same loop with the CPU AND DRAM. *I am aware I need the GPU installed in order to get a video signal but it did the same loop with the status LEDs. 10. Removing all RAM sticks and powering the system without it, nothing posted on screen. LED Indicator code: 10 = PEI Core is started. 11. Removing all components including; RAM sticks, GPU, TP-Link adapter, CPU cooler and the CPU it self from the socket, SSDs and placing them back in/reseating them, applying new thermal paste to CPU, cleaning any dust out, and still the same issue persists. *The system was working perfectly fine until I got to the list of options to choose SAFEMODE. So I believe that neither the CPU, GPU OR RAM got toasted or fried but I may be wrong. I attempted to reset the BIOS as that was suggested online to first do as the motherboard does have a backup bios chip and main bios chip , that didn't help either. I am not sure if it is that something happened to the motherboard itself or if indeed a major component is fried, which I really hope not. Thank you for any help that can be provided, I apologize if this was lengthy but I was determined to make sure I was descriptive as much as I can. I have submitted the manual and the article I was following. Article I followed to try to fix user account problem X399 AROUS PRO MANUAL 11/19/2021

Summary COMSEC, a computer security group in Switzerland based out of the university ETH Zurich has discovered and released a new iteration of rowhammer exploits on DDR4 DRAM, dubbed Blacksmith. (1) Originally discovered in 2014 by Google security research team Project Zero (2), also releasing a newer variant earlier this year (3), rowhammer attacks take advantage "of an unintended and undesirable side effect in dynamic random-access memory (DRAM) in which memory cells interact electrically between themselves by leaking their charges, possibly changing the contents of nearby memory rows that were not addressed in the original memory access. This circumvention of the isolation between DRAM memory cells results from the high cell density in modern DRAM, and can be triggered by specially crafted memory access patterns that rapidly activate the same memory rows numerous times." (4) Target Row Refresh (TRR) was implemented by DRAM manufacturers to mitigate these flaws, however Blacksmith is the latest discovery in rowhammer exploits proving that TRR protection is insufficient - resulting in potential escalation in kernel privileges. COMSEC confirmed "that DRAM devices acquired in July 2020 with DRAM chips from all three major DRAM vendors (Samsung, SK Hynix, Micron) are affected by this vulnerability [Blackmith]." (5) "There might be a light at the end of the tunnel, what with TRR being replaced by a new line of defense called "refresh management" in DDR5 DRAM modules, a mechanism that "keeps track of activations in a bank and issues selective refreshes to highly activated rows once a threshold has been reached." (1) CVE-2021-42114 Detail (6) COMSEC blog; Blacksmith Methodology (7) My Thoughts I would love to see LTT try to replicate these results. The exploit is available on Github. Sources (1) https://thehackernews.com/2021/11/new-blacksmith-exploit-bypasses-current.html (2) https://googleprojectzero.blogspot.com/search?q=rowhammer (3) https://thehackernews.com/2021/05/google-researchers-discover-new-variant.html (4) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Row_hammer (5) https://vulners.com/cve/CVE-2021-42114 (6) https://nvd.nist.gov/vuln/detail/CVE-2021-42114 (7) https://comsec.ethz.ch/research/dram/blacksmith/

I'm planning to get a new SSD, and I've been looking around and reading some reviews and a lot of times I encounter dramless SSDs, and I've heard a while back to avoid dramless SSDs. But some of them actually have positive reviews (something about HMB/SLC? I don't understand much of these yet), I wanted to try them since some were quite cheaper. My use case, aside from games, will mostly be with illustration and graphics and very occasional video editing. If it matters the particular SSDs I was looking at were: WD Blue SN570, Teamgroup MP33, Samsung 980 Nvme.

Hey guys, Recently built a computer for a friend. Installed Windows and tested everything after I built it, all worked fine (Didn't change bios besides ram speed). She flew back to Canada with the PC as checked in luggage. After she got home, the computer worked fine for couple hours, following by a complete shutdown of the system. (not a power surge since monitor is still working). Then she couldn't get it turned on again. (DRAM orange light always on). I remotely let her resit the rams, only two sticks, and single stick, no go. Then I let her checked all the cables, removed the sleeved extension 24pin cable and 8pin cable and directly powered from the PSU, no go. Then I let her ordered another set of rams that are officially compatible with the mb, no go. Also did bios reset and bios flashback. Somehow the PC just stuck at DRAM light. All PC parts are brand new, and I'm listing them below. Hope someone could help me out MB: Strix B550f WIFI CPU: 5800X RAM: Trident Z Royal 16GB x4 GPU: 3070Ti FTW3 PSU: Corsair RM850x z53 240 AIO, case is O11 air mini

Hi! (pardon the very long story, i was just maybe hoping that someome has another solution to my problem compared to what I'm asking for, but if you're not interested, you can skip the very long paragraph HAHA) I recently upgraded to an SSD for my laptop ( my laptop is the hp omen 15 2018; ssd is the kingston sa2000m8250g, though it was only 240GB because it was a bit of a rushed purchase) because my harddrive was starting to fail. Unfortunately, I didn't do my research properly and due to some circumstances, I kinda bloated it, and it got to around just having 40GB of free space, and since then, the only game I played (destiny 2) started running badly. Initially, it was doing really great, I had it on medium settings which was more than what i could ask for considering my hardware, but after installing something for school, the game suddenly started slowing down and being unresponsive at prolonged sessions with higher settings, now it barely runs at the lowest settings. One solution I've tried today was to increase the RAM because while playing destiny, my memory usage was always at around the 95%. so my friend and my dad suggested I tried increasing the ram, and since it was a simpler option compared to switching out the ssd (which I think is the source of the problem). But then I tried it, and I would still encounter the problems. Does anyone have any other solutions except for switching out the ssd? (it's also my boot drive rn) Now, here I am shopping for SSDs and a lot of the googling I've done has been telling me to not go with dram-less drives. but then i can't really tell the difference. One of the ssds I've been looking at is the CORSAIR Force MP510 NVMe PCIe Gen3 x4 M.2 SSD and it apparently has a "HIGH-DENSITY 3D TLC NAND" that "provides the ideal mix of performance, endurance and value to keep your drive performing at its best for years". Does the TLC NAND mean that it is not DRAM-less?? if not, does anyone have other suggestions for ssds with a dram, that's on the cheaper side? Thank you for coming to my ted talk

My pc bluescreens and ends up in a reboot cykle when i try to enable xmp or clock my ram to 3200mhz. I have 4 sticks of ddr4 8gb 3200mhz ram. 2 hyper X sticks and 2 corsair vengance sticks. I know that it\s tricky to mix ram but possible and the risks that follows. but it\s interesting because I had the same issue before installing 2 more sticks. i tried clocking it to 3200 because that\s what they are rated for but my windows where displaying them at first as 2600mhz. I first tought it was because I maybe installed them in the wrong slots but thought it was very unlikely since i have some experince with pc building. So I checked and there they where in 2a 2b running 700mhz to low. when i tried in increase it I got bluescreen. so i tried installing 2 more sticks of reliable ram that i knew worked correctly *corsair vengance| but still nothing and still bluescreens when xmp enabled

I recently decided to upgrade my old Mb and Cpu so thats why now i'm really confused why it wont post or anything. Whats happening when I turn it on is the CPU light turns on, and then it immediately switches to the DRAM Led on the board. For the first 30 seconds it looks like it tries to reboot itself, similar to me pressing the reset switch on the pc. I have tried running only 1 stick of ram in every slot, tried both the 1-2 and 3-4 channels together in an attempt to see if it will boot in duel channel. I have tried to reset the bios by removing the CMOS battery. The only thing I can think of that I don't know how to do is flashing the BIOS with the latest or a newer version as I believe this Motherboard doesn't support the new 5000 series chipsets without an update. I originally upgraded from an Intel i7 2600k so flashing a new bios though an old cpu isn't an option. One last thing to mention is that the ram's RGB does light up, and in fact when I reset the BIOS the RGB was on before I actually turned it on. Specs: Cpu: Ryzen 5 5600x Gpu: Geforce Gtx 1070 Motherboard: Aorus B450 PRO Gigabyte Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200Mhz PSU:600W EVGA 80+ Bronze Storage: 512Gb Ssd, 512Gb M.2 Ssd, 4tb Hdd

Hey, I have a few Questions that i just don't find answers for. Thats my configuration right now: Slot #1 & Slot #2 = 2* Samsung 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill Slot #3 & Slot #4 = 2* SK Hynix 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill I wonder if it would "decrease" Performance or "async" the Infinity Fabric if: 1. I would Overclock Slot #1 & Slot #2 (with the "better overclocking capable" Samsung DRAM) to something like 2800 MHz CL12-34, but keep the Overclock of the Slot #3 & Slot #4 (with the "worse overclocking capable" SK Hynix DRAM)? 2. I would further overclock all Slots to 2400MHz CL12-34? 3. I would overclock the Infinity Fabric to 1800MHz but keep the DRAM at 2800 MHz CL14-36? Thats my System: CPU = Ryzen 5 5600X MB = MSI B550-A PRO RAM = G.Skill 32GB 3200MHz CL16-38 ^^ 2* Samsung 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill ^^ 2* SK Hynix 8GB 2800MHz 1R CL14-36 G.Skill GPU = RX 6800 XT Midnight Black 16GB 2400MHz@990mV MPT 345W max. Power Draw PSU = BeQuiet System Power 9 700W (672W@12V Rail) Sorry for my bad english, Thanks for reading and maybe answering!

Hi all, I recently decided to build a new PC (after almost 11 years) and am a little rusty. I thought I had checked compatibility between the HW I purchased but upon trying to boot the rig, the Motherboard's onboard LEDs are shining yellow. I checked the user manual and found this means an issue is detected with the DRAM. I thought my RAM was compatible with the board I bought but maybe I am missing something? I have listed all the HW I have for this rig, if anyone could confirm if I need to get different memory (or potentially other changes) that would be appreciated. Thanks all. Motherboard = ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Gaming II CPU = AMD Ryzen 5 5600X GPU = ASUS ROG STRIX GeForce GTX 1080 Ti RAM = G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) PSU = CORSAIR RM Series RM750