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I'm curious, how bad would this be after you rip and tear it apart such as to force fit it into the role?

Heed my warning, don't get lazy making your connections! Had a super simple issue with my computer that took me a a few stressful hours to figure out. The problem: Out of the blue, PC shuts off like a power outage but still have power. Starting it up would result in a few similar outcomes, it powers on for a few seconds before powering off, it would reach motherboard logo then shut off, it would reach windows then shut off, it would even work for a few hours before shutting off. All of this but completely random. Possible issues I worked on: Cpu overheating (it idled at 35c) Bad power supply (mobo still had power after shutdown and swapping with a new one didn't help) Bad ram (windows memtest reported no issues) 3070 was drawing too much power (taking it out didn't help) (swapping with 1650s didn't help) Bad cpu (It was cinebench just fine for 10 min) Bad mobo (I really didn't want to test this cause that meant pulling apart basically the whole pc. At this point I'm pulling apart my head, nothing is working. Guess I gotta test the mobo, I take my whole pc apart and there I find my problem. Solution: Nvme os drive was slightly offset, I didn't screw it in. Now I know what you're thinking, how did it not fall out at all if I didn't screw it in. My motherboard has a thick metal plate that covers like 70% of the surface, including the nvme slots, they also have thermal pads to help cool the nvme drives. It's been a good 8+ months since I swapped in this mobo (aorus x590 master). At the time I figured I could get away with keeping the nvme pressed in with the metal plate. And it worked, until It didn't. So do things properly to avoid issues down the line.

Budget (including currency): ≈500; competitive w/ dash cams Country: U.S. Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: CCTV; but with moving vehicles/traffic Other details: Mostly wondering about a camera that will do what we want and have a signal we can use. There’s lots of info about making your own cctv on YouTube so I imagine maybe that’s a good place to start? Seems to be lots of interest but I haven’t seen anyone here talk about using anything other than an r pi; using a whole pc with 12v ac power is NOT as issue for me there’s tons of info about that for subs and for van builds. You could even have it’s own battery to run off while parked and it won’t touch your battery; but the batteries both charge up when the car is running ect ect. Def ez pz. This is something I’m interested in working on and I had always assumed it was easy and I probably wasn’t the first. I’d like to find a solution so I’m open to any and all ideas and input. I don’t see why this can’t be done and hardwired into my car for the price of high-end dash cams or even significantly lower; there’s tons of info about hooking up cameras to pc’s for making your own cctv and all sorts of motion software for that. As long as there is a camera that is able to give digital feed and have the feed be used I don’t see any issues or limits even as far as data storage. if a thread like this exists already please lmk! I made my account for this so I’m new and new to forums or posting at least thanks!

I really enjoyed the channel's video about the pc in a grow tent as my room also gets incredibly hot from my pc and the sun. Even after undervolting and such, it still gets way too hot so I was excited to see the video. Like Alex said, I wish there was a smaller tent, so that's what I did! This is using an old bag from Ikea and just cutting some holes in it. I made a stand out of Styrofoam that houses a fan to sit on top of the pc. I am using a high rpm 120mm fan that I had leftover from a previous project (this fan can push a lot of air without getting too loud) and 4in foil duct made for dryer vents. I didn't take any quantitative measurements, but I can say that it works great in a qualitative feel!

with this YMDK Wings Kit do i need to do any Soldering im i reading it this right https://ymdkey.com/products/ymdk-wings-aluminum-cnc-top-bottom-qmk-pcb-full-assembly-keyboard-jade-navy-cream-switches?variant=39301297864765 or this one https://ymdkey.com/products/gbymdk-wings-aluminum-cnc-top-bottom-qmk-rgb-hotswap-v1-pcb-diy-kit?variant=39348940832829 if i am can i still open it up to add some vibration dampening pads an if i go with the keycaps off this board https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGGGMPV/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?psc=1 an use them on the ymdk wings would i still get the space gap between the keys this is important to me my planned build is the ymdk with plus the keycaps off the 2088-Black with a full set of KAILH BOX DARK YELLOW SWITCHES an GLORIOUS O-RING SWITCH DAMPENERS 40a soft either thin or thick not sure which would be best an to top off build was going to give a custom paint job by adding a spray painted white pattern not sue what id go with yet. any advice on initial ask an any on planed paint scheme will be welcomed note i like a heavier trigger an my reason for wanting the low profile caps off that board is iv got on my current pc build a drop swift with kailh heavy box ancient greys an on the num pad the box dark yellows with these caps - Retro Steampunk Keycaps Set https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B089763442?psc=1 i like the gap spacing an the round shape but for ymdk id like square ones but cant find a good stand alone set other then the one on the mentioned 2088-Black an i was just trying to confirm the 2088-Black caps on the ymdk wings board would still have the gap spacing ?

would either of these the Aquacomputer airplex radical 2/420, aluminum fins or the Aquacomputer airplex radical 2/420, aluminum fins fit in the bottom of the torrent if 3 x 140mm fans were mounted first then either rad on top of them an the still have room for 3 x 120mm fans in the front

Hey guys My neighbour asked me to set up a security camera system for him on a budget. the thing is he would like to be able to view the cameras when outside the home on cellular network but his ISP runs is running a CGNAT so I cant even open up a port and do it that way (which isn't a good idea anyhow terrible privacy). So let me get to the point I am looking for a software that can run on linux with limited resources that supports Live view and any other features like AI detection, phone notifications would be great to have but not a must. I am less worried about the cloud storage part as I can just chuck a HDD on the NVR for cheap. Thanks for the help :)

The framework company seems to be pursuing a fairly noble ideal which I am wholeheartedly for, but what exactly is the target demographic for this laptop? For widespread adoption for the "everyday consumer," ease of use has to be first; although it does seem to be fairly straightforward in its construction for most enthusiasts out there, there still seems to be a fairly large barrier to entry for most consumers. For PC enthusiasts, perhaps this laptop would suffice if they were to need a laptop, but I would assume most PC users would already be satisfied with their desktops, leaving mobile computing (tablets and smartphones) as their go-to "on the go" solution. And I would think, that if these users did need a laptop, they would want one that, in the words of Todd Howard, "just works." If I am totally missing the point, I would love to hear your thoughts. I would truly love to see this product concept succeed in the increasingly proprietary tech world.

Hi, i would like to show you my way to the setup i run nowadays. It all started 4 years ago when i was just casually searching local used market and i came across my dream cpu block (from times when i was kid and cannot afford custom WC). At the time a was without desktop pc few years so the plan was born. I like small things so ITX was the way. It take me like another year to collect mostly used parts for complete system and i just build it. Also all the WC parts was used, because i have no use for desktop pc (at that time) so want that pc cheapest posible. If i remember correctly only brand new parts was PSU, Drive and some other stuff. In that parts list was...how to put it.... a very big radiator - alphacool monsta 420 which in no known universe will fit in a small itx case so i have to find way to get it running. So i welded up some "holder" for that rad and D5 pump. Problem was the power suply because at the beginning i wasnt planing build somehow powerfull pc so i pick up just 450W PSU and i was affraid that it wasnt enough for my entire system so i bough a 80W power brick and solder some molex connectors on that to power the D5 pump and 3 140 fans on the rad. So that was my first version of the pc was born. I like to call it "the Jank" setup. Parts list: used Ryzen 1500x open box Strix 450 itx board used 16Gb RAM new NVME drive used SSD M.2 drive new Corsair SF 450 power supply used R9 290x with block on it - i pay 35 USD for that all WC parts was picked up used with exception of D5 pump - that was open box used Raijintek Ophion case new Arctic 140 fans new 80W power brick new monitor new keyboard and my old trusty G5 mouse i have like 15 years now Next 2 years was ok, setup works fine but that desk...oh boy...i hate that desk so i build myself a new one. One with build in holder for that ridiculous radiator/pump combo. I also decide to buy some BRAND NEW!!! fitings and proper guick disconnects between rad/pump and rest of the system. The rest of the system remains untouched. So i picked up some steel squares (40x40mm) and ikea kitchen desk and get it done. I sanded down the color of the frame so it looks weared and old. My last "evolution" was actually yesterday when i moved system fron Raijintek Ophion case to new SSUPD Meshlicious i bought. I also abandoned that ridiculous (and very loud) cooling solution for something actually sufficient for my old parts and my use of the system. Honestly i was about to get just new case and go for air cooled system but nerd inside of me wont. I abandoned air cooling plan and go for "fully" build "show" pc with custom WC. I pick again...BRAND NEW!!!! alphacool WC parts like pump block, 280 rad, new noctua fans, new fittings and also hard tubing. I print myself a bending mandrels for hard tubing but ended ub buying alphacool mandrels because printed just dont work for me. I screw up 4m of hard tubing at first try but next time i get it right. I started with homemade (sandpaper) satin tubes but ended up liking clear acrylic ones. When i was bending those tubes i was like....dude...you are making such a beautifull tubing and want to put there those ugly psu cables? Hell no...so next task was sleeving all psu cables. It turn out so good that i ended up sleeving every single one cable in that case . So thats the end of the story for now. Hope you enjoy it and maybe it will inspire somebody to build new system.

Over lockdown i spent a lot of time sitting in my chair which caused the cushion to squish down to the point where i can feel the bars (lined in red in the image) on my maxnomic chair. I have taken it apart recently to try and let the seat cushion go back to normal if at all possible and realised that i might be able to put something in between the bars and under side of the seat cushion. Does anyone have any suggestions on what would work well? The only other thing i have tried is sitting on a pillow when sitting on the chair but want something a bit more permanent.

i need some advice on Custom painting My Drop Shift Mechanical Keyboard Anodized Aluminum (Gray, Barebones iv got two cam of spray paint for Anodized Aluminum an steel from Montana Cans a matte black an a blood orange , my question is can i apply straight on to the grey metal an do about 3 coats or do i or should i do a base coat or white first ? this is my desired color scheme concept https://imgur.com/a/o6EfjKO correct me if im wrong but thers a removable frame over the switch inserts that is screwed on from behind va four screws that can be removed so i could spray that frame interdependently from the main an cover the switch inserts with painters tape an painters tape around the side led strip like crown molding so as to do the front an back cleanly my two spray paints for prep an coloring are Montana Ultra Wide 750ml as final coat (at least 3) Montana Black Spray Paint-9100 Snow White as prep . base coat

I have attached a photograph of the Pc case I am trying to replicate. It would be amazing if anyone here happens to have the tutorial or blueprints for the case that would make life easier. But alas its not going to be that easy I feel like this case is probably the best looking case I have ever seen in my life plus this would go perfectly in my room where I have wooden flooring and a wooden desk. This would be the cherry on top. I am a novice PC builder haven't done anything DIY ever so that's mostly why I am stuck. If someone is kind enough to help me draw out the blueprints for it I would like one slight change for it to have glass panels since where I live there is a lot of dust in the air and an open air case wouldn't survive 2 days. Anyways, first time posting on this forum sorry if I posted in the wrong section or something PS: If out of some miracle someone at LTT see's this I believe they would be equally impressed and it might end up getting built. So if anyone reading this is like an admin or anyone here knows how they could get this picture somewhere where someone at LTT would see this steal the picture by all means. I just want to see the case built and see how

Hi all! After my first post talking about my future DIY build's battery solution, i'm here again asking your advice. I came to the idea of building a mini-pc with a MicroAtx inside for the ability to be upgraded in the future. The idea is to be powered by a 250-300w external power supply (maybe the ones used in LED strips or 3d printers),then to a battery pack (trickle charge with low voltage to keep them charged below max limit) and finally to picoPSU powering the motherboard. Unfortunately i don't really trust this small device to power my motherboard,most of the available in EU Picopsu are below 200w (<160 real consumption) and HDPLEX isn't available anywhere:( Can't think of an alternative even being a very DIY lover and love to make my own stuff. SFX PSUs aren't an option for the reason that i want to make it also battery charged (Except if you can think a way to make it work like that) I want a PicoPSU alternative that can support lets say 300w

Hy guys I'm new here But I thought this was the correct community for this project. my english will be bad sorry. boring story part: as you can see there is an optical drive but who needs one of those? so I will remove it and place a new radiator in its place! this is the other side of the motherboard i ordered this thing because the shape seemed usable now here is a terrible made image with gimp to put things in contest mi questions now are: how to bend the heatpipes of the new cooler without destroying them how to attach the new fan? how to attach the new heatpipe to the existing one with good thermal transfer? to attach the fan i was thinking about splitting the existing fan header so it wont be spinning 100% all the time but if it's not possible I was also thinking about pulling 5v from the sata of the optical drive and maybe limit the voltage in some hard wired way (don't know anything about circuits but I guess it wont be that hard) and to attach the heatpipes together I was thinking maybe some kind of sandwitch with steel to squeeze together the pipes hard and a touch of thermal paste or if it is too hard that way just thermal epoxy but I'm not sutre that would be really good at thermal conductivity. as for the bending of the heatpipes I have no clue I have a spare heatpipe (18 cm) if the lengths don't collaborate but the more separate parts the more heat transfer issues so I hope I don't need it I know it's stupid but it seems like a really fun project to me I HOPE I don't break my laptop in the process but at this point is already underperforming so it's a matter of time before is replaced anyway I was also wondering how to benchmark the before and after expecially since I can't control the room temperature Do you have any other potential problem I'm not seeing?

Hi there! So I was watching the outdoor cat 5e cable video and was wanting to do the same. I rather not risk hitting any wires so is there a tool that can detect wires? Incase it helps, the wall I want to put a hole into already has my broadband coming through it and the ethernet cable would be put right next to it. I'm also in the UK so if there is a tool, UK stores please! I was wanting to do this so that I could give my mesh WiFi a wired backhaul instead of relying on a wireless one AND get my full broadband speed to my bedroom so the devices that'll make the most use of the speed can actually use it.

Hi Friends! I hope everyone is well! I am planning on changing cases to this bad boy: https://smile.amazon.com/KABIOU-Aluminum-Computer-C4-Motherboard/dp/B09LSW1TLB/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=tlggL&pf_rd_p=bb56b41f-df49-41e1-be0a-6aa8b5f2799c&pf_rd_r=GMJSGM16V1B5WMSWQ7TN&pd_rd_r=593c0b3e-c427-429c-adac-a1af8bb5b3d6&pd_rd_wg=TXO9a&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m My main reason is trying to go even smaller than my current case without having to buy any addition parts (love that teacher budget). I want to install handles on the top to help with carrying looking at these: https://www.newark.com/hammond/1427c1/equipment-handle/dp/94F4829?st=1427c1#anchorTechnicalDOCS I wanted to know if anyone has done something like this before. The case has plenty of holes on the top so luckily no drilling. Do you all think the handles would hold the case weight and parts? Should I also get lock-tight to ensure the screws don't get loose? Here is my parts list: Ryzen 5 5600x Vengeance RGB 32gb EVGA XC3 Ultra 3070 240 MM AIO SeaSonic Focus G 850W

I have a nw-zx300 and love it, but I what to fully utilize its dac fouction. so, a type-c walkman cable can be really handy. But I can only find some over price snake oil cable on aliexpress. Is there any reasonable opication out their? if not, is there any good customlize cable company? or dose diy the only opication?

As the topic says; I have a cat7 cable that I cut to a shorter length and crimped a new connecter to the now open end. I used a cable tester to verify I maintained a straight through cable config (T-568A) it was ordered correctly and I was getting signal from one end to the other. However after plugging the cable from my switch to my pc I noted that I was getting 100mbps. Using a purchased cable from the same manufacturer I was getting 1gbps so I'm not exactly sure why my cat7 cable suddenly can't do 1gbps. Some context; So in a previous post, my roommates dog chewed into my Cat7 cable and it damaged a few pairs but left the cable working but not at full speeds. I have since replaced that cable and gone on to once again enjoy my 1gbps internet, however I'm not one to just throw away a still salvageable cable, so I cut out the damaged section and re-crimped the ends, but after testing them, in my known working 1gbps setup, I can only manage 100mbps. If anybody has any kind of experience in crimping ethernet cables and knows what I could do to remedy this loss in speeds I'd be very appreciative. NOTE: I have already tried cutting it off and redoing the connection but I received the same results.

I have an old 1366 xeon and was looking for a dell poweredge R510 board, nothing more, no case etc. but i couldn't find any documentation online relative to the board pinout, is there someone that knows at least where the "IO" pins are so i can plug a switch?

Main objective: 17-01-26.mp4.c.mp4 source：https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1144y1h7Ey?t=59.4 in the video above，one Chinese technicain successfully achieved “hardware color calibration” on driver board like this one：（or something similar） the method in video can be included in： 1.windows *.icc or *.icm color profile cannot work in fullscreen mode（like a game） 2.so we have to write *.icc config into the driver board inorder to make sure our color calibration works at any circumstances 3.first use displayCAL do the calibration and get the color profile for your display pannel （i grabbed a random one online random Panel calibration profile） 4.extract *.icm file from your calibration_profile.zip 5.read *.icm file that represents your pannel's every color's “offset” using ProfileMaker “MeasureTool”(download：ce01056afd99dfa1e8b0a211b3049f0a762b92d5) you get this select file “save as” this can be saved into code 6.convert this “offset map” to driver source code line like：（using some kind of script i havent got） 7.replace the code in your driver board's source code(not achieved) 8.so here comes the main problem： asking a technicain for source code is like ask him to put his money in your pocket the only code i can find online as a farmer is：https://github.com/search?p=1&q=RTD2&type=Repositories i also tried decompile firmware from a random firmware online but i got this im not a coder but i have strong instinct that this code is classified heavily from my thinking this point not far from the final goal just some code compile and some usb to serial flash but its such a burden for some normal people like me can you help help me this is the future of diy monitoring my friends！！！ this is a folder with something i fund：mst9804 driver binary

Ok, so i finally managed to persuade my junkyard IBM HS-1235E Server to work and i made a raid 0 array from two 250GB Hdd drives, then i discovered that using computer management in windows i can combine that raid 0 array with another drive i put in the server(80gb Seagate) so i made 580gb virtual drive by using "New spanned volume" option, and everything seems to work but i got an idea because you can also use "New striped volume" option which basically is making raid 0. So if you connect different size drives in raid 0 all of them count as if they would have capacity of the smallest one, but could i possibly make let's say Raid 0 using 2x500gb and then another Raid 0 using 4x250gb and then use both of this virtual drives in windows to make Striped volume which is basically Raid 0? In that way i would connect different capacity drives in Raid 0 without sacrificing any drive capacity, it would be possible because 2x500gb volume will have same capacity as 4x250gb so from windows perspective i would be connecting two equal volumes. What you guys think?

Hi all, I'm after some advice please, currently moving everything away from a Synology 2 bay to a DIY Node 304. Synology is going to be used a local photo storage etc similar to iCloud and Gdrive. Node 304 will be used for everything since the Synology is underpowered and doesn’t have enough bays. Node 304 usage: Mass data storage (Currently bought 3 x 18TB ready to be shucked) A couple of VMs for testing and running for file extraction organising etc Docker containers for app specific uses when a dedicated OS isn’t needed. Jdownloader as example. Streaming movies locally Might run my capture card direct to it to use the storage. Parts I already have: Case:Node 304 PSU:Corsair CP-9020177-UK RM550x 80 PLUS Gold 550 W Storage: 3 x 18TB. Parts needed: OS CPU Motherboard RAM Im at a loss on which OS / CPU / Mobo and RAM to buy. I looking for something that is very power efficient doesn’t use a lot of wattage since I’d want this to be available 247. - Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello there, As a fun holiday project, I want to program a custom doorbell. When I press a Bluetooth button (one of those cheep ones from selfie sticks), I want a python script (running on my phone) to recognize it. As far as I am aware, Android automatically creates a "Media-Button-Pressed" type of event. I simply cannot find a python script, that listens for this event. I already found solutions in Java for this problem, but since the only language I'm somewhat familiar with is pyhton, I'd like to use the mentioned programming language. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys ! I'm not sure if it was the good section to post it but here's my problem : I wanted to create a server for multi-purpose things since a long time ago, and, the last LTT video about this told me to finally do it. I grabbed a old PC, bought 2 4Tb HDD for RAID 1 (encrypted) and a SSD to put the OS and other stuff running on this. What do I mean by multi-purpose ? Mostly saving my data & backups, streaming video, making small game servers and, in the future, I was thinking about using it with a home assistant. The problem is that I don't know if I've done a good choice. Right now, I've set Pop_OS! on it and I was thinking about using Mamba to do the NAS part. But it feels kinda dirty, especially because I want to be accessing those files from the internet and/or my phone if I need to. I thought about using a private RSA key to have a secure and automatic login and connection without the risk of using a password, but it seems that Mamba isn't really made for it. So I'm turning to you guys : What is the best way to make a multi-purpose server ? Should I keep Pop_OS! and try my best to make it work ? Should I go with True-NAS instead ? But if so, how can I use it for multimedia purposes or simply running a server such as Minecraft or VTT ?

Budget: My PC is my baby, I can't put a number on it. Country: USA (Vermont, AKA no Ikea for hundreds of miles) So this last year has been hell for us all, especially when it comes to building a custom PC. After a really long time of searching, I upgraded my 7 year old (8 now?) laptop that had an i7-4750HQ with Iris Pro 5200 iGPU and 8GB of RAM, to a beautiful new PC with a 3080 FE, 5900x, etc - full PC here. Now that I have the PC of my dreams (more or less), I need the desk / area to match it. I'm currently using an L shaped tempered glass desk I got on Amazon that's alright, but it sucks to clamp a racing wheel to, monitors arms, etc, and the overall space is kind of limited. That said, I'm looking to go the butcher block route like all the beautiful sexy battlestations you see on the internet. On that note, I don't have an Ikea anywhere near me (and shipping is insane), and Home Depot, Lowe's, Amazon, Walmart, etc, are all failing me as far as replacing the "Alex Drawers" is concerned. DESK PARTS Support / Alex Drawer Replacement - Costco Mobile 3-drawer Pedestal File Cabinet with Casters x2 Butcher Block / Desk Top - Butcher Block From Lowes The file cabinets weigh in at 60lbs each, and all reviews say that the build quality exceed expectations. I found a few reviews of people using them for the exact same purpose as me, and they seem to love them. They're a bit pricey, but very heavy duty, and offer great storage, which I am in need of (it's not just support for the desk, I do in fact need storage of this nature). I'd prefer a wood look I think (to match), but the structural integrity of this sounds better, they're very heavy-duty, and the matte finish doesn't look too off from wood IMO. As for the butcher block, this is where I need help. I know jack about wood, and despite a bit of research, I'm not learning as much as I'd like. I have no experience with coloring, finishing, etc. I'd like the block to be a bit on the darker side, but the other blocks I found that were dark, also had pretty bad reviews, and I'd rather have a better piece of wood and finish it if needed (or not), than a bad piece of wood. I do have a cat that will likely climb around on the desk time to time, so a finish to ensure basic walking on it, food plates, drinks (with coasters 99% of the time) don't destroy it is desired. 6 Foot seems to meet my spatial needs, and hopefully won't sag at all like an 8 foot that probably requires a support. If I do need a support in the middle for this, please let me know, but the PC itself will be on the right, directly over a cabinet. It was also suggested I get some non-slip material for between the wood and desk, which seems like sound advice. In a perfect world I might go 8 foot instead of 6 foot on the butcher block, but I currently don't have the space, and I think with a monitor arm I'll be completely fine. My needs are simply more space, more storage (current desk has none, and I have a plastic bin type storage that sucks), and enough room for triple monitors and my PC. I think I'll want a monitor arm soon after, but I can figure that out once I have the desk. I just bought a second Dell S2721DGF, and I literally can't fit it on my desk right now, even if I remove the older 22'' Acer I have, as there's just no space for it. Any advice on the butcher block? Does this seem like it will work? Anything I'm missing? Are there any non-DIY desks at $500 that blow this out of the water? $500 is steep for a DIY, but I think the results will be amazing, just really want some outside perspective and confirmation before I drop this kind of money on a desk area. Thanks for any advice, it's incredibly appreciated! First photo is old, but more or less my setup (had a 3070 TI that I sold and replaced with the 3080) Second photo is my current setup, showing how that monitor just isn't going to fit, and my shit is crowded. New shelf though! Third photo is a rough generic idea of what I'm going for - image credit, someone with a better space than I.