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  • Recommendations for water cooling
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
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  • R4 Build #2
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  • PC Spec help
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
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  • Should i buy this prebuild pc?
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  • Voltage computer systems
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
  • James's Blog
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
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  • A techy blog
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  • Jake's Tech Selects
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  • PSU Upgrade?
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  • one fault about amd GPUs
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  • Dell Inspiron 15r (5520)
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  • THE BEAST
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
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  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
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  • Noob looking to upgrade
  • Scrapyard Wars Ideas
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  • New pc for under 750$
  • Hackintosh Under 5000 USD
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
  • Please Help
  • Harry__Bird's Blog
  • Noob Builder
  • Love Minecraft Blog
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  • Sound Card suggestions?
  • New Cars Review Blog
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  • Honda dream of life
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  • AIO to Dsktop plan
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  • Choosing a UPS battery backup
  • tibosuys_'s Blog
  • Windows on a laptop?
  • Gaming/Work-Horse PC
  • B1tKru5h3r (My workstation)
  • Ultraretrotech
  • cestigoy375's Blog
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  • Xenift's BuildVille
  • TELL US YOUR PC SPECS
  • LTT Audio Sub Recommended Audio Gear
  • arnab_razor's Blog
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  • MrUnknownEMC's Christmas Giveaway
  • shadowbyte
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  1. So I got the USW 48 switch and it went boom. On closer inspection, I found out that the 68uf 400W capacitor on the power circuit is swollen and it is the probable cause for burning out the fuse and resistors r20 to r24. I have no problem finding the capacitor or the fuse but the resistors are so burnt that I have no clue what they are. I'm hoping that someone could help me to find the replacement components
  2. Hi, first post. The LTT video a while ago got me in the mood to not spend 500+€ on a complete NAS solution. This just runs OMV with no streaming plugins. So here it is, I‘m just waiting for the 80mm fan to arrive, because temps are definitely an issue and leaving it just passively cooled is not a good long term idea. The idea: Basic NAS case, connect drives as you want via separate enclosure or just use it as standard with m.2 drives. Swappable PicoPSU to power 2.5“ or 3.5“ drives and the fan. Fan is controlled by a pot (in a very hacky and not so nice way, but it works) to run at 60-70% for almost complete silence. The m.2 to SATA adapters work fine, though I had issues getting 5 on the same extension to work. 16 drives seems perfectly possible. The reason for only 3 access covers is that I‘ll always keep one m.2 drive in there in case I can figure out caching some day. I can add a 4th if someone wants to print this. I haven‘t uploaded the files anywhere yet, might attach them to this post later. I need to adjust the ATX 20pin cutout a bit, doesn‘t quite fit yet. Cheers
  3. I’m planning on building a DIY router with 2-3 APs. I haven’t decided if I should use OpenWRT or pfSense or something else (would love to hear your inputs on that). If I want it to have mesh roaming capabilites, what are the things I need to keep in mind? Would I be able to use any APs, or would I need to use one from the same brand/model?
  4. Budget (including currency): $1,000 aud Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: 4k plex streaming Nas Other details: 4 nvme slots minimum, 4 sata slots minimum for 4 HDD. want to maintain upgradability in terms of CPU and GPU. I'm currently thinking this How does this look for a plex Nas? https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/TZ2nh3 ? I'm not too sure about the case, cpu or power supply either. Thank you
  5. Long read so be ready: I use my TV as the display for my media PC and sometimes I laugh, caugh or sneeze or talk and I leave small drops of saliva in the screen. After cleaning the screen with a microfiber cloth microfiber cloth (same used to clean eye glasses) and water, there was a stain in it that turned out to be either the Anti Reflective Coating of it or the Ultra Viewing Angle layer being removed. It was pretty visible when the TV was off or it was displaying fully black content with any other source of light in the room. I got this TV because of the great black levels it can produce and how bright it is for living rooms. I decided I would rather take consistency than keeping it the way it was and I tried different types of materials to rub the layer out, from softest to roughest. The one that gave me the best result was Paper Towels, the same you most likely use in the kitchen to clean stuff. It was taking way too much time and a lot of elbow grease so I actually used a polishing machine and put paper towels in the disc to complete the task. The result is a super glassy finish which I really like a lot. However, not everything is great because under some heavy heavy light you can see some micro scratches that look like smudge. It is not noticeable in a regular use but I can't take my mind off it and would like to finish the job with great success. I am thinking on either applying an oleophobic coating to the entire TV or buy another antireflective/protective film to get rid of the micro scratches. Similar to when the glue of the protective film of a phone fills the gaps created by a scratch with your nail due to a lot of use. I wanted to know if someone has applied an oleophobic coating in something big like an iPad or a table to know if it's feasible in a 50 inch TV and maintain a consistent application without more stains, smudges or something like that or if someone has any other recommendation. I will add pictures that show the 1.- Half way done process with napkins and hand work. 2.- Finished job while playing Warzone that show it's almost impossible to see 3.- Me polishing the actual screen in case you have any doubt. 4.- Picture with flash showing the "smudges" I hope someone from Linus Tech Tips team sees this and thinks of it as a great project for a video. Crazy ways or ways to remove a scratch from your screen and compare results.
  6. Budget (including currency): Not specyfied budget Country: Poland Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details none Hello everyone. I'm a huge fan of the channel, forum, and community. That's my first post here. I'm planning to build my first home server on a budget. At the moment I'm running an old laptop ( previously RP3b+ ) with home assistant. At the house, I have old DVR recorder with 4 analog cameras. I plan to integrate as much as possible into that server. I've read about VM and Docker but until ill try to set this up by myself, I'm not sure how it works. Im not sure whatb system will be best and simple to use? Plan is to use this server for: Home Assistant VPN NAS CCTV ( not sure if is better/easier/cheaper to use a dedicated IP recorder or integrate that on the server??) Maybe PLEX My plan is to go with old used hardware. Probably an old workstation. My question is how much horsepower do I need? what matters the most? I know about the importance of RAM and storage but what is the gold middle ground for cpu? What core count will be optimal for this remembering about potential new ideas for integrations? Is there a way to assume how much CPU each system needs? And I also care about idle power consumption. Thanks,
  7. Hi guys! I’ve recently been gifted an unbranded, Chinese headunit. I haven’t yet connected it to my car, but I’m almost certain that it’s the PODOFO Q3508. It most likely isn’t the PODOFO Q3570, which supports Carplay. As I really want Carplay, I thought that I might turn this situation into a fun project. So I want to add wireless Carplay to the device that I have. This is my current plan: The headunit supports wired MirrorLink with touch and audio passthrough for Android Phones. So I can buy a cheap Android phone which supports OTG. Then I can buy a USB hub for phones, with external charging and OTG for data transfer, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TUSITA-Adaptor-Charging-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00LTHBCNM I can then add this CarlinkIt adapter into the mix: https://www.carlinkit.store/products/carlinkit-usb-dongle-wireless-carplay-android-auto-box-wired-mirrorlink-for-aftermarket-android-screen-car-multimedia-player-bluetooth-auto-connect And lastly, I can connect it all together. The hub would be connected to the phone. Into it I’d plug charging from the cigarette lighter, a USB cable from the headunit for MirrorLink and a CarlinkIt adapter. I’d also install the necessary app. The phone should charge and the data should transfer properly between the devices. Now I should be able to connect via Bluetooth with the Android phone. The phone would open Carplay in the app. I’d then be able to display and control the app through MirrorLink. However, besides being pretty bonkers, this plan may have issues: The USB port from the headunit sends a charge into the phone (I think). If I turn the switch on my little hub to charging mode, then the charge will be sent into the headunit. Won’t things fry in that scenario, or todays electronics are capable of handling that? The headunit supports microphone input. However, if my iPhone will never be connected to the headunit itself, but to the Android phone, the mic won’t work, right? What should I connect the mic into then, the hub or the iPhone? I’ve seen MirrorLink behave overly ‚securely’ on YouTube and turning off basic apps like maps during driving. Is that possible to happen here too? Is there anything else I should consider? I need your help in checking my plan and its issues. I want to identify potential issues before I spend a lot of money on this project. Also if anyone here has attempted anything similar then sharing your experiences would be awesome. Alternative plan: I can politely ask the support team of Podofo for their latest firmware and software and hopefully be able to flash it to this device, but I think that receiving the files has a chance of 20% and another 20% of not bricking my headunit. I don’t think I can do anything else. Sophisticated methods like a separate device that supports Carplay, being connected into the headunit’s display directly, probably won’t work because the unit doesn’t have the video input (except for the reverse camera, which I want to use). I attached the connections below. Huge thanks in advance!
  8. Hi All, I was looking for some advice - consider me a noobie when it comes to electronics, power supplies and matching everything correctly. Please see the image attached for what I am hoping to achieve. To get something like this from the manufacturer of the wall panels is around £200. What I think I know: - I would need a plastic diffuser track to diffuse the LEDs for a more smooth light output - Need some LED strips, Power Supply, some form of controller - To avoid soldering I would most likely need to buy (e.g.) 5 1m strips and cut down 3 of them to get varying lengths and discard the extra LEDs. Not the most economical, i know, but I would really like to avoid much electronic work. What I would like: - I dont have a soldering Iron and would like to avoid doing this as I don't have any experience in it before - A relative plug an play solution, even if the different components are from different manufacturers (e.g. plugging LED strip into power with pre-existing connector) Nice to have: - Smart hope integration (Apple Homekit, or even app based) - Black cables to help hide (not a deal breaker) If anyone could advise/suggest how to do this and what components to use that would be much appreciated! Or if anyone know where I could get something similar to this without the £200 price tag that would be much appreciated!! Thanks in advance, Callum
  9. On Black Friday I bought a few new components for my new PC to complement the other stuff I had been saving for. Bought an Asus TUF Gaming X670e-Plus WIFI, 32 GB of Corsair DDR5-6000, Ryzen 5-7600X,among other things. Out of the gate I had a few issues with the memory as it wouldn't work at 6000 without varying 30-600 second post times. At 4800 it seemed to work normally, but I didn't pay for 4800. I ended up sending the memory to Corsair and they swapped it, although it took a month. Got the memory back, installed it and it's been good until yesterday my design program told me that I only have the minimum amount of RAM (16 GB) and it would recommend 32 GB or more, which is odd because I frequently use it and hadn't seen that message before. I looked in and the AuraSync was working on both modules normally so I fired up CPUID and sure enough it reported that only 1 module was reading. Ok I thought, maybe its loose. Opened the case press the lever back to remove the memory and it falls. The side of the DIMM slot broke and it doesn't securely hold the memory now. Called Asus and the agent said to send to them, if it's fixable it'll cost $200 or they'll charge me $300 for a new one if it's not. My first thought was to grab crazy glue and try to reattach the broken piece even if it worked but I couldn't remove the memory in the future. Then I thought I should ask the forum.
  10. hello im repurposing an old lenovo thinkpad L450 as a low powerd desktop ment for use in instututions like schools and librarys. ad part of my projekt i need to make a custom 3d printed chassis for the components i have the general shape figured out but i need help vhith the screw placement of the motherboard/mainboard and i would like to know if there is any documentation that can help whith the creation of the chassis?
  11. DIY the fastest handheld for too much money warning: this is stupid, but if you want the fast handheld pc, this is an option. Also need to be very tech-savvy. (or very stupid (or both)) to actually do this. Question? What is faster than a ROG Ally but smaller than an itx pc? It's the motherboard of an alienware x17 12900hk (very important that it's that CPU(unless you know how to undervolt a 12700h(I don’t))). The reason for the choice is that it is too my knowledge. The smallest, most compact, motherboard that is available with a CPU that can be undervolted. The steps are quite simple really. 1: Acquire alienware x17 with 12900hk. For somewhat high resolution photos of the motherboard, I suggest the pictures from this seller on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/166369177351?epid=20059595121&hash=item26bc602f07:g:Xb0AAOSwjOllK8Tu&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0DuhiKAcX%2BQi8kj%2Bp2xSRBPLDRlrlPrIAX4CD%2BCNE9y55Mi66%2Bw%2FUGuati20mFkwWOdjK2SzJV%2BPmd%2F%2BQhj2u9lYQLoqFNR9pZVJpvG5AzQomZQqOFcPvGHXNJdzQnxrKTLW6m5330xPj1NaAABMF4W6DetNfPgokUWmXHYM54w%2FDxL8h8VncdjZxUMbC2efUUUzIvMPlc%2BJfnl0qY5Tx66oCUxks5mjwQtFy90RMK8RBYnjMzeTnB5faI7RTe%2BN6XtWT2Oqfm2MaeOFierC5Pw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_LnvLabYw 2: Undervolt the shit out of it. So it draws as little power as possible 3: Figure out cooling, and battery. 4: now for the controls, some laptops complain if the keyboard is not plugged in to the motherboard, I don't know if that is the case here. If so, I suggest going with the clamshell style. Small keyboard on the bottom, with flip-up screen on top, and half of a sawed off controller on each side. 5 hopefully while reading this you have already been thinking of a design for this amalgamation to go in, if not you should probably get on that now. After figuring all that out, you should hopefully have a working handheld pc that still is guzzling power too hot is heavy and quite big. But faster than anything else on the market. Good luck an idiot. Disclaimers: This is stupid and perhaps impossible. This was written by someone that does not know enough about this kind of things to actually be writing this. And lastly I am dyslectic and English is not my first language so grammatical errors are inevitable.
  12. Budget (including currency): 400-700$ (no storage) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: A low power NAS/DAS machine capable of doing 1-5 jellyfin streams + handle all the -aar software and some other services. I might in the future host some web applications, being a software dev, some docker containers, some nginx php servers for personal self-hosting. At which point maybe the low power is a hard no. Other details:I have an old 7200U 8Gb 256gb SSD laptop that's been doing all of this in one machine, suffice to say it was good enough to tinker but not properly work. I could do 1-2 streams tops but no encoding. 3 gaming pcs (one for me, one for sim racing and one being my old gaming pc) I've started by looking at crazy stuff like flash only nas (asustor) or diy through jonsbo but all of them use very small CPUs. Perhaps this should be 2 separate machines and have the nas/das in addition to a separate machine to do the jellyfin, suite of other services, etc. How would the storage performance go though if they are separate machines? I just figured it would've been simpler overall to have it all in one.
  13. I accidentally dropped the CPU while inserting it into the socket and now can't post. Ezdebug says CPU. Going to attempt the repair in about an hour. Anyone have any advice? Y'all think I'll be able to save the motherboard? Please point out any bent or misaligned pins you see, I'm having some difficulty seeing the problem. I'll attach some photos....
  14. Something the algorithm showed me. Custom Kinetic PC Case
  15. Hi there! I've recently decided to get going on a server project involving my old gaming pc. I was hoping for some advice into which direction to with it, if there is a 'software' that's more useful with my pc or just tips generally. I have looked at some YouTube videos about DIY TrueNAS server, but would just like some feedback from others with experience before diving into the project My PC Nvidia Asus GTX 1070 8GB Intel Core i5-7500 <3.8GHz CPUK Be Quiet Pure Rock Cooler DDR4-2400 Crucial 8GB ram MB1151 Asus B250M-A Prime PSU Corsair TX550M 80+ Gold Modular I was currently thinking of buying some hard drives, just need to find out how much storage I need. I also have a kit of 32GB Corsair Vengeance 3200MHz ram, that i might be able to switch if needed. I would love to use the server as a storage for old documents, projects, pictures and maybe be able to host my own website? All help appreciated, Prestige
  16. So I have this Evga Supernova 1300 G2 with no cables at all. i thought of buying them from eBay's but due to where i live the shipping is expansive than the cables them self. i was thinking of making them my self but the motherboard connector is not standard. does any one knows where i can find wiring diagram or a something to help me make them cables What do you think should i do
  17. is the a step by step tear-down an guide for replacing the thermal pads an paste for my gpus which are the XFX Speedster SWFT210 Radeon RX 6650XT CORE Gaming Graphics Card & the XFX Speedster MERC319 Radeon RX 6750XT Black Gaming Graphics Card ? i need a guild so i can upgrade both over the stock thermal pads an paste with the Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad for the gpu chip an SWECENT Thermal Pad 1.5mm 12.8 W/mK [120x20x1.5mm] for the vrams an chokes , ive seen an heard that replacing the stock thermal pads an paste with these give on avg a 10c temp drop for idle an load temps which sounds really good.
  18. Budget (including currency): 4000$ish AUD Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: 4K Video Editing, Large batch Photo Editing, Remote Access, 0 Level Encryption with Sync to Dropbox, and Share Folders to People remotely to review photos. Host TV Shows and Movies. Also Backup Home Devices. Ideally 8+ Drives with Raid 60, ECC Support, 32GB, Seagate Ironwolf Pro Drives. Looking for about a total of 40TB of storage after setting up the raid. Transcoding footage. Remotely access files. Caching. 10 Gigabit. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I have been looking at the Synology DS1823XS+ but I hear that Synology is making some questionable decisions. I feel like I would get more bang for my buck with a DIY Self Managed Setup. I did consider Qnap, but I hear that they arent quite great. pls be kind I don't know much about this stuff.
  19. A pretty epic victory for the intrusive thoughts if i say so my self, probably one of the biggest warcrimes commited against the luthier community, but the end result is kinda cool, not gonna lie. It turned out way better than ive ever hoped it would, looks cool, does guitar stuff and it also plays games, unlimited games, but the question remains... will this guitar run or play crisis?
  20. Budget (including currency): 5000€-6000€ Country: Catalonia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Machine Learning, CAD, Rendering, playing Monitors Double monitors in programmer configuration, left(auxiliary) vertical, right(main) horizontal Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Mobo: MSI MEG Z790 ACE MAX EATX LGA1700 Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K 3.2 GHz 24-Core Processor CPU Cooling: Optimus Foundation Intel CPU block RAM: VENGEANCE® RGB 96GB (2x48GB) DDR5 GPU: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card GPU Cooling: HEATKILLER V PRO for RTX 4090 FE - ACRYL Ni-Bl aRGB Frontal radiator: EK-Quantum Surface S560 - Black Fans: NF-A14 industrialPPC-24V-3000 SP IP67 PWM Case: DIY aluminum-wood case Hello ladies and gentlemen, I am creating this thread to share with you my DIY computer plan. I want to build a personal workstation for home that will allow me to code my machine learning projects, do CAD and render 3d models. Additionally, I will also use the machine to play, but that will be minimal. I want this pc to serve me for a long time so after months of investigation I have decided to choose the MSI MEG Z790 ACE EATX as the core of this build. I believe this mobo will grant me a good balance between RAM size and RAM speed. It will also allow me to add a second GPU in the future and has thunderbolt4 capability, which was a must for me in order to perform fast external data transfers. I was considering other options such as: Z790 AORUS TACHYON , Z790 AERO G , ProArt Z790-CREATOR WIFI or EVGA Z790 CLASSIFIED, 121-RL-E798-KR, LGA 1700, Intel Z790. I am designing a DIY pc case. The concept of the case is to maximize airflow while at the same time I can count on a large area to radiate heat with a water loop. The case is tall and slim to promote natural circulation of warm air from bottom to top. Also, it looks nice. Top will exhaust, bottom will intake, and frontal side will fit a quad noctua fan ekwb radiator. I am attaching the first sketches of the case. I will be expanding this thread shortly. Current state (21/11/2023): Current state (19/12/2023): Current build state (05/03/2024):
  21. Hello, I'm in the process of setting up a pfSense router for my 1Gbps/2.5Gbps home network. I'm looking for recommendations on suitable hardware components or pre-built mini PC systems that are known to work well with pfSense. My primary requirements include achieving reliable throughput, using energy-efficient components, ensuring compatibility with pfSense, having the option for expansion, and selecting hardware known for its durability. If you have specific models or brands in mind that have worked for you. Thank you in advance for your insights. Best regards,
  22. Hello Friends, I am looking to upgrade my laptop's panel (my laptop is Lenovo ThinkBook 15 IML 20RW/ my current panel is NT156FHM-N61) and i have found two of best options are 1-M156NVF6 R1 has 1000 Nits and 2000:1 Contrast ratio and 71% NTSC 100%sRGB 74% DCI-P3 2-N156HCA-GA4 has 500 Nits and 1000:1 Contrast ratio but 96% NTSC 100%sRGB 100% DCI-P3 and Anti-glare and they are both 1080p IPS and 60hz and there also other options that are in between such has having 1500:0 contrast ratio but still only 100%sRGB and 470 nits And I am looking for the panel that provide most enjoyable/engaging visual experience for web browsing and entertainment such Youtube videos and Gaming And just to note I had very mixed views from people I have asked them about this topic Give me your thoughts friends to make the final purchase decision Thank for Reading
  23. Khoomn

    DIY NAS

    So my home server is currently just an old Optiplex 7040 or something with an i7 6700 and 16GB of ram. I want to run a NAS off of it as I have this Buffalo Terastation with 4x 2TB drives running raid 5. The problem with the Terastation is that it doesn't have a cache drive so transfer speeds top out at 3.5 MBps and it only supports SMB 1. My original plan was just to buy some SATA to usb connectors and 3d Print the enclosure (which i can still do) but the problem is that there are 4 different power cables I need to plugin for each drive. Was wondering if there is some sort of PCB or storage bay that doesnt have a raid controller on it so I can plug it in through USB and do software raid through truenas or something.
  24. Budget (including currency): £400 Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Music streaming, some occasional 4k streaming, photo storage. Looking for suggestions on a setup for my use-case Beginner DIY NAS for music playback (e.g. Roon) and some photo/video storage My desire is to have a NAS that’s between 4-16TB in size, including backup/clone drives. I only have about 500GB of music, but it’s constantly growing and I feel it’s time to take the jump into this. My interest in NAS’ are for their use as huge storage systems as well as the ability to stream content from them. For streaming music, I like the sound of using Roon for this. I probably wouldn’t use the NAS much for watching video content, but this may be something I would be interested in doing further down the line. I do also have a growing family photo collection that I’d store on the NAS. Growing from 0GB, as I’ve only just begun the mountainous task of digitizing old prints we had in the loft. Really, my priority is having a setup that a) has sufficient storage and backup storage and b) performs well enough that I could stream my music library very quickly, with WiFi or data speeds being the only discernable bottleneck. I’m not really sure which component/s in a NAS setup would be the most important for this use-case (e.g. CPU, RAM, SSD etc). Ideally I’d like to spend under £300 for the whole setup, but can go over this if needed. If I need to start with a smaller amount of storage (e.g. 2TB storage and 2TB clone/backup) in order to meet my performance requirements (i.e. a more powerful CPU/RAM if needed), I am fine with this. Suggestions on builds would be massively appreciated! And if you aren’t able to/don’t have the time to suggest a full parts list, guidance on how to shop for different components, and which components I should prioritise, would be awesome. Thanks!
  25. As an evolution of my electronics hobby, I wanted to make a minimal effort system to communicate who of my cats has been fed and how long since that happened. It will be Raspberry Pi Zero W powered contraption, and I'm wondering the best way to make a battery system to power it because I dont have an outlet close to them. and I think it would be a fun project to do. - The Final device will run a webserver that will make the times available there as well. But there will be a display with the times updated as well - I am not sure about the best way to power it because I am new to BMS systems. - I have 100 Samsung 18650 cells that I got free from someone who recycled 350 BRAND NEW cells at my work. -I want to have at least 2 cells, or enough to power the device for over 1 day. They are 3200mAh cells at 4.2 volts max. - I was intending to use 18650 cells holders similar to these to hold them securely but I would like to be able to charge via USB C. - I am not sure if there is a board that does USB C charging and 5V output for a pi zero W and 128x128 white pixel screen (I am considering using an electrophoretic display if I can find one large enough for my needs), or if it is more cost effective to get them in separate pieces. I just don't want to rely solely on Bing GPT and order the wrong stuff. Thank you for reading my word vomit, have a good day
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