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Showing results for tags 'digital'.
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Apparently Mark Zuckerberg, the CEO of Facebook is building a real life version of Iron Man's Digital Assistant 'Jarvis' in his home to help with his work. Mark said: Zuck wants to build his own AI (artificial intelligence) bot to help him run his life more efficiently — but he references Jarvis, probably the best example, to explain his lofty ambition. Source: TechCrunch -
Hello I have ran into an issue regarding bitmaps. Whenever I create a bitmap texture and go to apply it onto an object, it won't let me apply it. Has anyone else encountered any issues? -
I have a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-50X's with a Maximus VII Hero and when plugged into the back of the motherboard I only get sound through the headphones when selecting 'speakers' in the Window's playback settings. But how does this work because there is nothing to convert the digital signal to analogue signal..? And in what scenario would you select 'Realtek Digital Output'? -
It's $146.80 for the ultimate edition. It only comes to you digitally so there's no cool box, art book, or a toy to treasure and enjoy. Since I thought of building my PC this year, I've decided to buy the game and get the premium edition in advance as a birthday gift to myself. The game comes out November and that's my birth month. But this is ridiculous... I can't believe companies have the balls to charge us with absurd prices for products that only exist in the virtual world. Because of this, I'll just get the game (regular edition) during Christmas time. I'm hoping the prices sink by then.
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Forgive my ignorance but which one is better? I am hoping to have continuous back-up from my book duo to my book and a system image back-up on my passport if that makes a difference in software selection. Why does WD even offer both anyways? I am running Windows 10. -
I wrote an article on my blog about this and writing it made me think more about the issue at hand. I am probably one of the few people that I know who is distracted or bothered by people spending so much money on a PC or TV or whatever else while either sticking with Earpods or dropping a few hundred on a pair of Beats without a care in the world. https://joshdoestech.wordpress.com/2016/02/11/you-should-care-more-about-your-audio/ I share my thoughts in more detail in that post, but I'd like to share with you a few horror stories that prove my point. One of my friends claims to love vinyl and believes it sounds great, and she wouldn't be wrong either... If she weren't listening to it on a Crosley Cruiser. I try and explain to her that she will destroy her records and that the turntable really shows off the worst side of the vinyl hobby, but to this day, she doesn't listen and goes on to destroy her overpriced repressings of indie rock albums. A friend of mine would not listen to any kind of advice that I would give on headphones, he really wanted a pair of Dr. Dre Beats even though the AT-M50Xs were cheaper and superior (I'm not in the M50X circlejerk, but it's a good example). I even try to give him practical information that shows that the Beats were inferior, but alas, he bought them anyway. Because what's an indoorsy person's knowledge of hi-fi and technology against the magic of impulse? Anybody else got other horror/success stories?
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So I recently got a WD My Book and My Book Duo and downloaded the three WD programs that came with it. Using their WD security I set a password for both of them. I then proceeded to reroute the location of my "Videos" file in my library (previously located in my D:\Users\Charles\Videos) to My Book Duo (now located in E:\) so that any videos I have and will have in the future will directly go to that external hard drive. However, it seems that whenever I try to go to my videos in my library, there is a "WD Drive Unlock" preventing me from accessing my videos and when I click on it, it says that it is already unlocked. The only way I can access my videos is through "This PC" -> "My Book Duo (G:)". So is there a way to get rid of this "WD Drive Unlock" that is preventing me direct access to it from my library? I have already tried removing my password and currently have "auto unlock for this computer" enabled and neither of them worked. I have a screenshot below to show what it looks like. While we're on this topic, whenever my computer boots up and I log into my user account, both files from My Book and My Book Duo pops up, is there any way to get rid of that? Any help would be appreciated!
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Greetings. I was looking for a way to connect my Wii to my monitor, which only has VGA and HDMI inputs. The best I can get on the Wii is component out. My question is whether component output is an analog or digital signal, and whether I should invest in a component-to-VGA adapter or a component-to-HDMI adapter. Regards, Aereldor.
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Hey everybody, First of all I'd just like to thank you all for looking at my topic So my situation is as follows: I consider myself somewhat of an audiophile, and I sort of have a problem/concern that I'm not sure how to solve, thus my attempt to reach out to you lovely people. Basically, I produce music and in order for audio playback I have studio monitors running off my audio interface, I also run my headphones off of there. I was wondering if I would benefit from purchasing a DAC and a headphone amplifier, just to specifically run my headphones off of (not my studio monitors because I prefer the balanced TRS connections on my audio interface). If so, how would I implement this into my setup, so I could have both the DAC and headphone amplifier run simultaneously with my studio monitors on my computer? Thanks again for viewing my topic
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Okay, so I kind of became bored with the dull look of the standard clock (and also its size) so I downloaded T-clock and set it up. The issue I have is that it won't open the standard calendar in Windows 10(which I really like). Instead..it opens this(if I set up calendar inside T-clock settings) Is it because that calendar appearance is bound to the default clock? And is there a workaround to this? Or it just can't be implemented? I say this because the project has been going on for a long time(I've used it a lot in Windows 7 and 8) and this feature missing suggest that it can't be done.
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Hey folks! I'm in the market for a gaming laptop. I'm going to be using it with Adobe CC, Blender, Maya, Unity, and Unreal Engine. And of course, some AAA games. I have a $2000-$3000 CAD budget. I need the portability because I'm at school, so I need to have the ability to make last minutechanges to projects, etc. Some specs/features that I'm looking for include: 15.6" display (preferably with a 1080p display, for battery life and performance) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980m (preferably the 8 GB variant) Intel Core i7 5th Generation (Skylake would be nice, but its probably too new) A metal body (aluminum or Al-alloy) A decent trackpad (I'm coming from a 2011 Macbook Pro, so I'm a little spoiled ) The closest I've come to these specs is with the Digital Storm Triton in the following config: https://www.digitalstorm.com/configurator.asp?id=1143332 It has the metal body and 1080p 15.6" display, but 4th Gen i7, 4GB 980m. Can anyone give me any alternatives to this? Or tell me about your experience with Digital Storm? Thanks!
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What is the difference between buying a game disc and buying a digital copy?? Buying a disc is like cutting half the price of the game.
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BTW, I'm not from the US, is homie a good word? or bad? in some movies when someone call somebody a "homie", they get offensive but according to dictionary, it's "an acquaintance from one's town or neighbourhood, or a member of one's peer group or gang." Anyway, so I just recently started to learn photoshop for a hobby, and since it has something to do with photos, I figured I might as well learn photography, right? Now, since I'm just starting to learn, you should already know I'm not a pro when it comes to these photography stuffs. In fact, I haven't took any "real" photos before in camera, just in phones, sooooo ye~~~ah... Here's what I'm kinda looking for: -Long battery life -Can take RAW image (also can take great photos oviously) -(Optional) Can take a descent HD video -Can take good low light image So far, I have 2 cameras in mind... -Canon EOS M3 -Nikon 1 J5 I also kinda like the Nikon D3300 but it's kinda bulky and big. But if many of you prefer that over the other 2, I might go with D3300 instead (coz it's also in the same price range). BTW price range sweet spot is up-to $700 or ¥70,000 (I lived in Japan) "Homies help homies" - Jake
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as the title says, i have VHS movies that i want to convert to digital format. so im asking for kit recommendations. no real idea of max price range rite now, but ill take price/ quality recommendations. -
Hey! I have an issue I've never encountered before and I have no idea how to solve it. The HDMI cable in question is http://www.profigoldcables.co.uk/catalog/profigold-prol1202-2m-led-tv-hdmi-cable-high-speed-with-ethernet-p-100.html I know, overpriced as shit, I didn't buy it. But that should guarantee quality a bit atleast, no? I have two monitors. One being the http://www.iiyama.com/gb_en/products/prolite-e2473hds-1/(Ilyama ProLite 2473HDS) And the other (my main monitor) being the http://gaming.benq.com/gaming-monitor/xl2411z (BenQ XL2411Z) Both support HDMI, DVI-D and all the widely supported stuff. I am running a GTX 970 in my system, the one by Gigabyte, so I have 3 DP slots, 1 HDMI and 2 DVI slots. The technical specs out of the way: This morning I got the urge to connect my earbuds to my monitor, so that they wouldn't be in the way. I usually use my desktop headphones, but sometimes I prefer in-ears so I decided to connect them to my monitor, because HDMI supports audio, right? My Ilyama screen has a 3.5MM headphone output connector so I connected it there. Going to my windows sound panel, the monitor definitely is able to produce sound, but only from the monitor's on-board speakers. The headphones just do not work. Then I decided to switch the cables around. (I usually have my Ilyama connected to HDMI, and the BenQ to DVI-D). The Ilyama connected fine, but my BenQ doesn't respond to the HDMI? It just tells me ''no signal.'' It has power, is connected to the PC (have re-connected it multiple times) and I have even restarted the PC even though it's hotswappable. Reversing this alleviates the problem. The monitor can connect fine through DVI-D again. So, am I dealing with a shitty HDMI cable here? Is it partly broken? Am I doing something wrong? It definitely is able to produce sound, just not over my earphones, and on my other monitor, it doesn't even work! Any help is appreciated.
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The Sims was pretty much my childhood, and ever since then I've come back to play it again and again. As of late, I've noticed that the disc is getting pretty scratched. I would like to be able to play this game for along time, but the limitations of physical media may prevent that. I figured, there must be a way to get the game to run without using the disc, since that is a form of copy protection that this game, and many others, use. I've looked online for ways to achieve this, but it seems to be just as sketchy as the emulation scene, and I wanted to know if the experienced and knowledgeable people of this forum knew of a way that I could get the game to run without the disc. I would prefer if there was a way without downloading any software, but if there is a safe piece of software that someone knows of, I would be okay with using that.
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Building a new gaming PC in the Silverstone Raven RVZ01. Stock fan(s) - Silverstone 120mm Slim @ 18dB Additional Fan - Nanoxia Deep Silence 120mm PWM @ 16.9 dB CPU Cooler - Cooling the Intel Core i5 4690S, Noctua LH-L9i @ 14.8 dB (with L.N.A) GPU - Asus GTX 750 Ti Strix OC @ 0dB HDD - Western Digital Green 4TB @ 28dB PSU - Silverstone ST45SF-G @ 18dB Of course, the system is only as quiet as the most noisy component in the PC. Therefore, my PC should be 28dB at max load. Is this silent or close to it? Can anyone with a PC around 30 dB explain how loud this would sound about 40cm away from me on my desk? Thanks ^.^
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I have a question regarding my GPU. I have an HD 7970 from XFX, problem on it was, after attaching a second monitor with DVI they both went black and since then never worked with Digital, no HDMI Signal, no DVI Signal, only way I get a signal is trough a VGA-DVI Adapter, although that way I can´t get the EDID Data from my monitor, I have to adjust the resolution and Hz myself. So I tried in safe mode, cmos reset, driver reinstallation, deactivated the onboard graphics, and more, it won´t work with any digital signal for some reason, I know it worked perfectly fine before on HDMI and DVI by a friend who preowned the card, and it was working in the beginning, so what else could I try? My old HD 7850 works on DVI/HDMI with my system. Also I tested on 4 different monitors. My System: FX 6300 OC´d to 4,1 Ghz Biostar A960G+ HD 7970 XFX 12 GB RAM Crucial 1600 Mhz 5 HDDs total of 7 TB PSU 630 W Thermaltake Thanks!
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I'm more of a Seagate fan but when it comes to larger sizes like 3TB and 4TB if I went with Seagate I would use a Constellation ES but other that the 128MB of cache (with certain models) I am not very comftreble with it and I know of WD Blacks being more common in these situations and since there are not 4tb barracudas (that I'm aware of) or 7200rpm hybrids in 4tb (on pcpartpicker) I then would go with the constellation but like I said is they are not very common so I'm not to sure if that is marketing or just not being good, also sorry this is long. Plz help, MRE
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When a car engine rumbles to life, it's music to the ears of many car enthusiast, as it's associated with performance and power. But as car engines are becoming more fuel efficient, it's also becoming more and more quiet. So quiet that, the mighty rumble of the V8, may not be from the engine itself, instead it's enhanced through artificial noise and other tricks. http://www.washingtonpost.com/business/economy/americas-best-selling-cars-and-trucks-are-built-on-lies-the-rise-of-fake-engine-noise/2015/01/21/6db09a10-a0ba-11e4-b146-577832eafcb4_story.html
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My htpc has a Xonar DG card in it, after a reinstall there is no sound out of the Toslink port. S/PDIF and PCM enabled. If I set digital audio to default audio device in windows, it shows activity, however Xonar audio software (buggiest piece of shit ever imo) doesn't show any activity. Upon reboot the digital audio device changes to "s/pdif passthrough" and if I set that as default there is no activity at all. It used to work fine, but after the windows reinstall it is ded. I Googled around and loads of people have the same shit but no solutions were there. Specs: Athlon64 4400+ 1gb DDR2-800 ASUS M2N-MX SE ASUS Radeon HD 6450 ASUS Xonar DG WD Scorpio Blue 500gb aaks or something LG Blu-ray drive Corsar VS350 Generic shitbox case Win7 Pro 64
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Thinking about buying a game (code) online and the site asks the user to say where they are buying from, hence adding VAT for your respective location. Does VAT apply when purchasing a digital code? Thanks, Blueprint
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Which is better, the Seagate hybrid drives or the WD black the black is more expensive but I belive it performs better so which is better.
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I own a Logitech g35 for a long time now and a few days ago I compared it's sound to the sound quality of my AE2. I let may mainboard do the surround sound (MSI GD65). Logitechs virtual Sourround converter thing is turned off. Result: The Bose sounds absolutely terribly for some reason. (But it sounds fine with my iPhone and iPod. ) I guess it is because it gets affected by noise in the case while the signal travels through it. The G35 seems to receive a digital signal processed in the headphone ( because it's conneced with a USB cord)and is therefor not agree Ted by the noise. Use see that I have slight idea where my issue is coming from but I am not shure so please help.
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So i'm looking to buy a digital multimeter and i have came across this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EYYJQOO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0001K9XKW&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=19GTTGE6QCHRNHXQB6J0 It looks pretty good but i have no idea on the subject of who makes good ones and who makes bad ones. Basically when overclocking i want a more accurate readout for both my CPU and GPU (GPU mostly) since software such as GPU-Z isn't acknowledging any additional voltage when it is applied to my GPU. So, i have came here to see what kind of DMM you guys would recommend for measuring both CPU and GPU voltage levels. Max budget in GBP (£) would be around £30 (Can go higher but nothing that's stupidly expensive). UK only. Spec in sig.
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