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So I've recently cleared out my fathers old office and found a d-link DNS-320l with two WD green 1.5tb drives in it. I've kept it for the time being with the plan being to do something with it. Does anybody have any idea what I can actually do with it? I thought about using it as a remote Time Machine for mine and my girlfriends Macs, but I've found out its limited to sata 2 so limits the speeds of the NAS significantly (apparently around 300mb from what I can see online). Does anybody have any ideas of things I can do with it?

Hey guys! Although I'm an avid LTT/LMG fan, this is my first time here on the official forums, so I apologize if this is the wrong section to post this to. TLDR: Higher end Windows machine running idle causing laptop on same network to fail to stream video during high-usage hours on our internet. Looking to limit bandwidth usage on higher-end windows machine so that it can stay connected and take only what it needs without causing interference. My dad has health issues and as a family we watch a lot of Netflix/Amazon Prime. When I'm doing my own thing and not watching with them, I leave my computer connected to the LAN, as one would, and play Celeste / work on After Effects stuff / etc. Our internet connection is not very great. 25 Mbps down 1.5 up on wireless, which used to be enough for us but lately our connection slows down to an absolute crawl, speedtested at times as low as ~1-5 Mbps down. It seems to only do this later in the day, usually starting after 6 PM. Today we were watching that new movie 'searching' together and I left my computer on so I could keep the afx project I was working on in memory. I had previously closed all of my background running apps so the only things that were running at the time were After Effects (using like 20 GB of my RAM) and Chrome which had a few pages open. My windows updates are paused, but apparently just leaving my computer connected and powered was enough to cause our Netflix stream to start buffering for an extended period? This has happened before, turning my computer off fixed the problem. My computer is older but still pretty high end, I play a lot of games / do video work as described above. My motherboard is an ROG Maximus 7 hero with an oc'd i7 4790k and similar high end specs from that era. Running Windows 10 (1909) and Manjaro Linux on a dual-boot, but Windows was the OS running when this happened. Our router is an older d-link dir-855L I believe.. One of the cylindrically-shaped models. We had previously enabled QoS on it and set QoS to prioritize the laptop we use to stream Netflix, which I gave a DHCP reservation and is also plugged into LAN. I'm running out of options. I had ROG GameFirst 3 installed years ago but it had caused problems, so I've since uninstalled it. What can I do so that late at night, my parents can have their Netflix stream and I can leave my computer plugged in to look up tutorials / scroll through Reddit / continue to do the things I normally do? PS: getting ISP service to come in is not an option as our family is isolating due to aforementioned health issues, that also isn't the problem as once my computer is disconnected, netflix on the streaming laptop returns to a viewable state. PPS: only devices on the network at the time other than a few things on LAN that were powered off are the streaming laptop and my desktop. Phones were disconnected.

Hello master builders, I just wonder if it is a normal thingy or not but my wifi adaptor (D-Link DWA-127/B1 N 150 High-Gain USB Adaptor) is slow to connect to my router after restart, sleep, or shutdown. It takes several seconds to a minute to be able to connect back even though I've already connect it automatically. Is it because driver error while installation (yes, it is not plug & play, I do not know why tho) or parts defect? I've tried to look into several forums but since I cannot pinpoint what's wrong (or even whether it is normal or not) I cannot find the answer. IDK if it is help but this is my pc spec: ASRock A320M-HDV R4.0 AMD Ryzen 5 2400g Team TForce 8GB DDR4 Crucial SSD BX500 240GB

Hello people, I need some help picking a good Router to get for me in 2020. I recently got an Asus RT-AC88U on sale. The problem, however, is it's unstable. The stock firmware was unstable, leading that the wireless connection would just disconnect for no reason at all. I got recommend using Merlin firmware, which was better, but still, I lose connection. I live in a big house, however, It's a bit old(but renovated). The problem with that is that I can't get new internet cables across the house to set up a good mesh network. I game quite a lot, however, I use a cable, so it's stable for me. I'm fine with 30-50 ping, so QoS isn't a game-breaker by me. A lot of people use wireless to people, so I need a good router to give me a good range, and having a good MU-MIMO might be a must? So all in all, I need the router to have really good coverage, and it needs to be able to handle 15 ish devices connected to it(maybe 5-7 ish at the same time). Any recommendations? What do you people use? I'm willing to pay the high-end version to fix my problem. Incredibly sorry that the post was so long..

Requirements: NO netgear Ability to cover 2000+ sqft

So I have a CAT 5e cable running from my router to my PC. I get a max of 100Mbps Download and 50Mbps upload. But my connection is 250Mbps Down. Which I get on my phone via 5Ghz wifi. Another desktop with Cat 6 has the same 100Mbps cap. Router is DIR-853 D-Link. I thought about getting a new wire.. but if all 4 wired connections are at 100Mbps something else must be causing this?

Hi, I'm was looking to get a gigabit switch at home since I only have a regular 100 Mbit one. I'm currently looking at the following options: D-Link DGS-1210-16 (https://eu.dlink.com/uk/en/products/dgs-1210-series-gigabit-smart-switches) Has the following, which is want I would want from a new switch VLAN QoS Trunking/Link Aggregation Port-Security (MAC based) ACL's 802.1X Port-based Authentication It has fiber uplink which I dont need since I cannot run new lines to another room with lets say a second switch for roof mouted cameras There will be no cameras connected to the switch directly (has some surveilance features) because I will need to either branch of a wall socket in some room to a poe switch to hook up cameras or use wireless ones. Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 24 (https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-2448/) this one is a bit more expensive but I'm also potentially interested in more stuff from UB (like AP's Security Gateway and such) if it is feature equivalent or has more features I would pick this one over the D-Link one My questions now are: Does it offer the same features (security wise) like the one from D-Link (has to be through the UniFi Controller) especially points 4-6? I dont have UniFi devices yet and I can't tell if the switch (throug the help of the controller can provide the same security features as the D-Link one) Does anyone have experience with the noise level of the UniFi Switch 24? I will be connecting 10-12 devices since I dont need PoE the 16 port options are more expensive thus the 24port model) it will sit in the basement in a room with the heater, my wall mounted smart home central unit and our home ventilation device (so its never silent in there but its not a big server room with blowimatron's either xD) regards Alkahna

hi does anyone know how I can connect more than four devices to my router at the same time? Did i configure it wrong?

hi all, i am currently own a Asus rt-ac5300, i want to place it in the living room (set it as a wireless AP) and get a wired router for it to connect to my modem (i am subscribed to a 1GBps fiber plan) but i cant seem to find a good wired router for my home. (i live in Singapore, so my internet speed is about 600 upload and 500 downloads) I came to a few good ones Tp-link safestream TL-R600VPN https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-R600VPN-Gigabit-Broadband-Supports/dp/B007B60SCG/ref=as_at/?creativeASIN=B007B60SCG&imprToken=YKE6NLZz4p860DKYh9UbOA&slotNum=10&ie=UTF8&linkCode=w61&tag=mwsussex040_routers-20&linkId=1450498e214b09df5e031d81d64252d1 Mikrotik hEX https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3 my plan of doing it Modem-->wired router-->asus rt-ac5300 and the rest of house Lan point

Does anyone here remember D-Link's DI-LB604, 4 port load balancing router? An emulator can be loaded by clicking HERE. I had one of these years ago. It was VERY simple to set up and worked very well. I don't see where D-Link sells one now. Anyone know if D-Link makes one any longer? Anyway, during the time I had two ISPs coming into my home, I purchased a TP-Link TL-R470T+ load balancing router. It has quite a number of features, but is also much more complicated to set up prior to being able to use it. By comparison, the old D-Link was almost plug-and-play.

I got a new D-Link router (DIR-855L) and replaced my rather old Linksys WRT54G with it, thinking that the old router was the reason I haven't been able to take advantage of an internet connection advertised as capable of 100 Mb/s down - not the cable modem, which is quite new and rated for 343 Mb/s. I also replaced a short Cat 5 (not e) cable between the modem and router with one rated as Cat 6. However I did not experience any improvement in internet speeds, but actually the opposite: instead of 30 Mb/s down and 6 Mb/s up, speedtest.net revealed I now only had 2 Mb/s up. To see if the issue was WAN or LAN, I watched the WAN show (yes, bad pun). got a huge file on my PC (approx 15 GB in size) and stuck it in a directory accessible by my web server, and tried downloading it from my domain (resolving to my public IP) - http://glassblade-games.com/video.mp4 - and then from a local IP within my router's subnet - http://192.168.0.100/video.mp4 - and as would be expected, the video streamed way better off of connection to the LAN address than off of the connection to the public address. By the way, that file was only temporary - if you try to download it, you're just going to get a 404 Error Not Found. Don't worry, the content isn't important. It was just a file I could find that was big enough to max out my bandwidth for a sustained period of time. In this screenshot you can see that the local-address download is quite quick. I upgraded to this router partially because it supported Gigabit ethernet whereas my previous router only supported Fast ethernet. The local-address download is already going faster than what would be possible over a 100 Mb/s connection, and would probably be even faster but my mechanical hard disk can't really keep up, I don't own an SSD, and creating a RAM disk would be unnecessary for this test, not to mention that it could only be maybe two GB in size before it would start to compete with my billion open Chrome tabs. Then I went and tried speedtest.net from a WiFi-connected laptop, and got more favorable upload speeds that looked more like what I remembered having gotten with my previous router. And then I did the LAN vs WAN test, and the local-address download seemed to go at a speed limited by the WiFi signal strength, while the public-address download was stuck at 2 Mb/s as I thought it would be. I then read some scary things on tech support forums where people said the DIR-855L was garbage, blamed it on the fact the device was made by D-Link, and either they talked about having fixed the issue by upgrading to a newer model such as the DIR-860L, or they just abandoned the threads entirely. So at this point I was concerned that I'd bought a piece of junk with some kind of crippling problem that made it worse than the device I bought it to replace, which would be quite sad. I then decided to return to my desktop to try again investigating my router settings (I did plenty of poking by this point) but started by doing a few speed tests to get a baseline before I changed anything. But I noticed that between the first and second speed test I did, the upload speed went up slightly, though it was still quite anemic. Then I started doing more speed tests to see if that trend would continue, and though I initially expected it not to, I was starting to form a new hypothesis as my reported upload speed climbed consistently, test after test, until it was over 6 Mb/s (back where I started). Was my upload speed just really bad at first because of a break-in period? Was the router just trying to slowly raise its congestion control throttle so it wouldn't overwhelm my cable modem, or maybe the cable network it was connected to? A sort of long-term equivalent of the Transmission Control Protocol's congestion control (wherein TCP sockets will start out sending data at a low bandwidth and gradually upgrade the bandwidth until the connection between the endpoints is saturated)? As I was writing this I decided to do the test again to get a screenshot to show the difference in download speeds. But I just noticed that as I've left the downloads going, my network manager (cfosSpeed - great program!) is now showing outbound traffic of 1.4 MB/s (Bytes) - OK now it's crept up to 1.6 MB/s and just continues increasing - but the crazy thing is that I've never seen my network manager show any higher than about 800 KB/s up, which makes me wonder, not just whether my new router is "learning" and trying to adapt to its connection environment, but also whether my old router was artificially set to operate at whatever speed the engineers thought was reasonable and wouldn't overwhelm people's modems. However, I suppose it's also possible that the older device also had gone through a "learning" period when it was new - that was a long time ago. But still, why would the router need to do any kind of learning for the wired LAN outbound traffic speed, yet already provide my connection's full speed to WiFi-connected devices? And then there's this: While I was doing the many speed tests that seemed to be training my router to send a bit more down the line at a time instead of holding it back so much, I encountered an occasional *massively faster* download speed result that was much closer to the 100 Mb/s advertised than the 30 Mb/s I've been used to for so long, which was reported by the vast majority of the speed tests I ran. There were about 50 of them in total, so to put it as a percentage, the 30 Mb/s figure was reported, very consistently, for about 95-98% of the time. Weird, though, that this would happen seemingly randomly and then my router would just retreat back down to the slower speed again. That doesn't seem like the way a router should be designed to "learn" if that is indeed what is going on, because if that's what's happening then the intervals are way too far apart - if I can get 85 Mb/s down but not, say, 100, then I'd much rather have 80 Mb/s reliably than 30 just because the router is afraid of stressing out the cable connection. Which makes me doubt this is part of the "learning" thing. I didn't write this up and post it here because I want or expect help with the issue, but rather because I found it interesting, so don't feel obligated to attempt to solve it, though if you have had a similar experience in the past I'd be happy to hear about it.

Hello people, I have a problem with my router. For a while I was running DDR WT on it. When I tried to flash the original firmware it gave me an error and got stuck in recovery mode. I have tried a lot of online solutions but nothing worked out for me. At first I couldn't loud anything. But now I can only go to the screen for updating the firmware. I have tried al the avaible firmware on the D-Link website but not a single one worked out for me... Everytime it gives me the message Successfully updated but then that message disappears after 2secs en nothing changes and it is still stuck in recovery mode... Who knows how to fix this? Best Regards, Thom p.s. English is not my native language so I am sorry for any typing/grammar errors

I have a D-LINK DIR-850L router. My connection is 100 mbit up/down and I use the wireless connection at the moment. Whenever I test my internet speed I run at a steady 4 MB/s up- and download speed. However, when I transfer files to my backup drive (the model is a WD My Cloud), which is connected to the same router I upload and download at around 13 MB/s. Which is the internal network. The file is still transferred wirelessly. The lan connection gives me a stable 11/12 MB/s up- and download rate. So I know the router is capable of higher speeds than 4 MB/s. What is at fault here?

I have a D-link DGS-1100-08 Managed switch.. and I need to connect to it. I have tried everything. Neither the webpage nor the SmartConsole will work. I have set windows's and or the router's IP to 10.90.90.1.. still nothing. Any help would be incredibly appreciated!

Hi guys, I have a Tp-link router (not sure about the model number) connected to an old wirless router (d-link dl-624). I can't make them work together. I think that the problem is either in the way I connected them (Lan port with 30m cable to Wan) or the setup (setting up the static IP for Wan. Can you guys help me with that. Thanks, Fufs

Do D-Link DHP-601AV PowerLine AV2 1000 Adapters only come in 2 pack kits? I'm trying to buy 3.

Ok so i am going to get a new router for my house, the router is so INCERADABLY in optimaly placed and also an utter pice of horse shit, so i thought i would use it as the modem and then use another router, its a pretty big house(2 floor + basement and attic and a small garden) and i was suggested to get the Asus RT-N66U and run Merlin on it(a custom router OS for Asus routers thats really good) and i was about to do that until i found a couple of used D-link routers for pretty cheap, $30 for a d-link dir-868I and $15 for a d-link dir-655 and they seem to be OK both of them and now im not sure what to get because a new Asus RT-N66U is about $85 here so what should i do? i dont really mind forking out the extra cash for the Asus router but if its not that much better then i might as well not. Thanks for any replies and any help

Anyone can help pls ???,id like to buy me a new wifi ,i had a D-link DIR-655 and its broken propably so im looking for a new one to 200€ or 230$, thanks guys!!!

Hey guys!! I need the most reliable Wi-fi Router i can get under 100 USD. (on amazon US) It doesn't have to be AC. Thanks!!!!!!!!

I have a 2 yr old D-Link 600L Router which was working fine until yesterday. When i was out my partner told me that there was water on the router but i didn't find any water. He told me that he tried to dry it using a blower. But it didn't work on powering it up just the power LED was on nothing else normally after the power LED all lights would blink. So I opened it (thinking that warranty is already void).But when i opened it there was no marks of water. Still it won't start just the power LED lit up nothing else.

Hey, I am investing in some home networking gear because I want to start off right and build something pretty good. This is what I have planned so far Modem: Arris Surfboard SB6121 Wired Router: TP-LINK TL-R600VPN Network Switch: Netgear GS116NA Wireless Access Point: I don't know yet What I need help on is the wireless access point I am considering the following options D-Link DAP1665 $89.99 D-Link DAP2660 $167.99 I was hoping to get an AC access point because if I get a new laptop I would want to have maximum bandwidth with my server. I was thinking about setting up teaming with the server, but that is not happening for a while. Currently my laptop only has 2.4Ghz, but I might upgrade it soon. I just really have the following questions 1. Why are access points so much more expensive that routers for the same speed? The way I look at they have less stuff. 2. Is PoE really worth it if I can't run the wire through the wall. It's going to have a hanging wire why not 2? 3. Could I buy a router and set it up as a wireless AP? 4. Is there anything else I should know? A ranking system maybe? Any thoughts would be really helpful. My knowledge is pretty limited so I would appreciate some help. Thanks. James

I just downloaded and installed Windows 10 (build 9926) in Hyper-V and can't figure out how to get the internet working on the virtual machine. I'm not sure how to setup my USB Wi-Fi adapter to work with Hyper-V. I'm fairly new at this sort of thing and any help would be appreciated.

So this is the problem I was trying to access the setup page of this access point So I did a reset(default settings) Now when I try to open it using the access point's Default IP it doesn't do anything I've also checked the Default gateway and it's blank Any ideas?

Hi all, I experience problems when there are many devices connected to it. We have at home a DIR-855L and we have the following connected to it (maximum): 2x Desktop Computers (wired) 1x iMac (wireless) 3x Cellphones: 2 iPhones, 1 Windows Phone (wireless) 1x iPad (wireless) 2x Macbooks (wireless) 3x Laptops (wireless) 1x Xbox (wired) 1x Printer (wireless) First problem: Multiple devices handling Most of the time, Theses are connected all at the same time: Desktop (mine, Windows), 3 cellphones, 2 laptops (1 MacBook Pro and Dell Vostro, both wireless) and Printer (HP 6980). At this point (most of the time), I experience slowdown randomly and everytime it happens (at least once per week) I need to reboot the router entirely. Yes, I tried to directly connect to modem and it works as it should. However when someone comes in with his iPad, Macbook, iPhone and they watch a movie on Netflix, I must close to always reset the router. Always as it just can't handle it (wireless MacBook Pro). I'm wondering if it is a router issue or that there's just too much to handle? The IT guy at my job told me he had a TP-Link Archer AC1750 and had 8 roomates and no problem. Comparing the two (Archer and my router) is like comparing a motherboard or a graphics card to me, so I have no chance to know if it is because D-Link handles poorly many devices or what. Second problem: iDevices that fails to connect or just gets kicked by the router and there's no log about it. I updated today from 1.02 to 1.03, but am still wondering what can I check when the slowdown happens. Thanks for your support!

Hey, So in the abundance of QoS threads on this forum, I am still unable to do QoS. My router is very unpopular out of South Africa, and is quite terrible; however it does support QoS... The problem is that I am a noob when it comes to QoS, and this really isn't noob-friendly. What I want to do is prioritize everything in this order: Gaming Streaming (Twitch) Web browsing Videos (YouTube) Torrents How do I go about doing this? Can I prioritize certain ports and server IP addresses? Thanks