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Hello there, As a fun holiday project, I want to program a custom doorbell. When I press a Bluetooth button (one of those cheep ones from selfie sticks), I want a python script (running on my phone) to recognize it. As far as I am aware, Android automatically creates a "Media-Button-Pressed" type of event. I simply cannot find a python script, that listens for this event. I already found solutions in Java for this problem, but since the only language I'm somewhat familiar with is pyhton, I'd like to use the mentioned programming language. Thanks in advance.

Hi, for the past 3 or so years i have been fighting with my fans I have 3 original phanteks fans and 2 corsair h100i fans my mobo has 5 fanheaders but i need my aio plugged into 1 of the slots however my h100i allows plugging in 2 fans into it (great ! (not really...)) my current setup is: 3 phanteks fans plugged into asus motherboard controlled using AI Suite 3 2 corsair fans plugged into h100i aio watercooler my issues: coirsair fans are LOUD coirsair software is a piece of **** it never respects my profiles, randomly does random stuff like ramping up and down for no reason (I have stable rpm untill like 80C so it shouldn't) asus software is not terrible... but could be better i want more control fixes: get new fans add more fans to motherboard so i don't have to use h100i and iCUE use https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases instead of AI Suite 3 write custom software to make custom event based fan curves or use software above now comes my question and followup, is there something that (preferably open source) can allow me to add let's say 2 or 3 more fans i don't mean a splitter or commander or whatever they are called, i mean a way to add FAN1 FAN2 with their own (different) events/fan curves? just like a motherboard supports i looked up for corsair, they have an API for iCUE which is great, but WHY can't i have custom fan speed, their api only supports colors?? im desperate enough to make my own board/hardware if nothing is available? would create new thread on that, as i have some questions for example my device manager lists "ACPI-Lüfter" (Lüfter = Fan) is there easy way to add more fans to windows/device manager? let's say im lacking in the driver department making a board that can control 10 fans via pwm and writing some software in whatever using serial (better choice?) is pretty easy, software is where stuff is harder but probably borrowing some code from hwmonitor should make it easier, again would make new thread maybe some peeps would get on the board (open source hardware and software, because im tired of iCUE) i tried googling and didn't find a product that can do this pretty easy task let me know what you think !

I’m getting a custom pc from CLX gaming. Do the specs and price match up? If you need more info, I’ll try adding the price of each item specifically. Processor AMD Ryzen™ 7 5800X 3.8GHz Octa-Core Motherboard ASRock B550M Pro4 - Micro ATX Memory 2x 8GB DDR4-3200 Patriot Signature Line Graphics Card NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 3060Ti 8GB GDDR6 OS Storage 500GB M.2 PCIe 3.0 NVMe SSD Major Brand Cooling Solution CLX Quench 120 Closed Liquid Cooler Chassis Selection SET SPEAR Micro Tower Black Chassis Fans 3x CLX RGB Fan Chassis Internal Lighting No Chassis Lights Power Supply 750 Watt GAMDIAS Kratos M1 80+BRONZE RGB Total: $2099.00

Hey guys, I've recently picked up a 48 port POE switch for cheap, not knowing how loud the fans would be. I wanna build some kind of custom enclosure anyway, a small cabinet to be exact, and I had the idea to put 6 noctua fans for airflow / cooling. Looking at it and since it's in my room / bedroom, it shouldn't be loud so I'd go with some Noctua NF-A20's probably, 4 intake and 2 out. I'd open the switch and let the 4 intake fans, blow on them from directly on top, trying to cool it down, the 2 blowing out are just so I don't have all the hot air inside it of course. But I'm kinda worried it's not gonna be enough cooling so I thought about asking you guys. I'd either put the fans onto the switch fan ports or I'd get a splitter and the 5V fans, to power them via a USB wall socket. Do you think it's gonna be enough cooling for the switch? It currently has 6 small (I think it was 20mm fans) inside it. I'm not sure about the power draw but I think I read that max draw can be around 600 watts(?) for this model. I bet it's enough but having a few more opinions would be nice for me as I've never had a switch that big before / I've never tried cooling a switch. Thank you all in advance for the help and tips! I'll add the exact model and max power draw in a bit, if needed. Edit: The switch is a "Baystack 5520-48T PWR"

Hello LTT community, I would like help with my custom cooling system, I would like some tips, it is from the ekwb brand, and my question that has been tormenting me is: Do I need a sensor or a digital sensor inside the circuit? Could you recommend me for my circuit? (because it is necessary to avoid combining different types of metals due to corrosion) in my case it is completely from the ekwb brand, so it is nickel and (copper in the radiators if I am not mistaken), I would appreciate any recommendation or advice, thanks

Are custom loops better than regular air coolers or AIO’s in terms of temps? I’ve been thinking about this for a while now and I know, custom loops look sick if they are done correctly. But is it actually practical for temps? Do you get way better temps from it for your CPU and GPU? Are they easy to build?

Hey Guys, I'm currently modding a Macintosh Classic to a modernish PC. Now that I'm nearing to finish this project I'm searching for a good looking keyboard that will suit it well. I've already modded an "Apple Desktop Bus Mouse" to be wireless and compatible. So if anyone out there has a good recommendation to buy without breaking the bank, feel free to post them here. I would also appreciate, if you have suggestions of building custom keyboards (with partlists) or some guide of modding old ones to be USB or wireless. Those three keyboards i have found and thought about them, but the DURGOD ones are too expensive for me.

Hi everyone, If anyone has been following the build I've been planning for the last few weeks, I have finally finished it! Cpu - 5960x overclocked to 4.7ghz @1.22v Aio - Arctic Freezer II 420mm Motherboard - Asus X99-S Ram - 32gb 8x4gb ddr4 3000mhz GPU - GTX Titan X Pascal PSU - Corsair 1000w 80+ Gold Case - Phanteks p500a Ssd - sata 240gb Kingston drive HDD - 4tb Toshiba 7200rpm Sensor panel - cheap raspberry pi screen I will be adding benchmarks to this post soon, and comparing it to my 3700x build which has a comparable cpu (8c 16t) I play at 1440p 144hz (gsync) and so far it's running great. I've played Devil May Cry 5 and it's been a solid 140-220fps, but appreciate that's not an ideal test for the setup Let me know what you all think, and if you have any questions or specific tests you'd like me to do This platform seems like a viable option given I got the motherboard, cpu, and ram for about £200, whereas the 3700x I was considering would have cost that on it's own

For a couple of days now the wireless internet has been inconsistent and sometimes hasn't been working at all. The internet itself is fine because Ethernet is working. Its just the wireless which was having issues. After a while I decided to reset the router, the router I have is the Night Hawk R8000. But its important to note that I have tomato firmware installed on it. After I reset the router I tried to log into it using the default logins so I can configure the router. But when I tried using the default logins of admin/@Newdig it didn't work, none of the logins I tried worked. I need your help to get access to the router or to get it into a configurable state.

Greetings, My background: I'm currently saving up for a new PC. I know HOW to build my own, and have so in the past. I've been upgrading various parts in my current PC over the past 10 years (and as such, the only 'part' that is the same as when I bought it, is the case :D ). However, for various reasons, I've been saving up for a new PC and should have the money for my desired specs by the end of the month. I do NOT want a 'pre-built' system, I am aiming for a 'custom-built' one. As mentioned, I do know how to build my own, but I really do not like doing it (I'm more of a software guy). I was planning on CyberPowerPC, as my last experiences with them (~10 years ago) was good. But on researching, I've seen ...'less than stellar' reviews of them for the past couple of years, so I have my reservations. (however, this was for pre-built systems and I can't really find any reviews on custom-build ones)> I have since also looked into iBuyPower, NZXT, and a few others with not much better reviews. Now I am fully aware that typically people leave more negative reviews than positive ones, and many forums are populated by the 'exceptional' bad lemons rather than the general quality of any particular brand. Anyone have feedback on recent experiences with a custom build from any of these companies? Thank you.

Budget (including currency): Just trying to save money Country: US of A Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming ( Just trying to get by and start streaming a bit until I can buy a reasonably priced Graphics card ) Other details :I bought a pre-build a couple years ago not knowing anything about PC's, I just wanted to play games. Now I want to play games and be good at them while streaming them. Yet I still know very little about computers. I threw this build together, I have an old graphics cards that kind of sucks so please help me out with all of your guys' knowledge. I am wanting to get a PC as soon as reasonably possible. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MrCrafted/saved/#view=MHV899

Budget (including currency): Up to $4,000. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Modern games, shooters, FPS, role-play, whatever (Cyberpunk, Crysis x, Arma, Division, Sniper, Batman...) Also work - primarily AutoCAD/BricsCAD (2D only). Monitors: Presently using a Samsung 55" 4k TV. I'm not certain if it supports 60hz @ 4k - it may only do 30hz. Someday I'll look to upgrade this but it looks great now. I presently run my desktop at 1080p as things are too small at 4k resolution (I sit about 8' from the screen). But for gaming I want the highest the system will provide. Peripherals: Already have my keyboard & trackball. My SoundBlaster G6 drives the headset. Why are you upgrading? Presently using a MSI GT70 for my primary machine - and even with a 980M video upgrade it's showing limitations for current gaming. I've built my own PC's for years but given the current market it seems buying assembled is cheaper. I've also never done watercooling. I was considering Xidax but they seem a little limited in their offerings at least today. IBuyPower looks like a reasonable option though I'm open to alternatives. Are these components balanced for performance - or am I either limiting the system with a critical item or spending money on a part that will never be used? My thoughts - case seems good quality for price based on what I've heard - no experience. Processor - 5900X is supposed to be better than 5950X for gaming. MB - here's where I have the least comfort. Would a B550, like a Tomahawk, be better? Is this particular board good? I don't *think* I need Dark Hero stuff. Memory - looks like the best IBuyPower has available. Power Supply - this one *looks* good but should I go with an alternate like the Seasonic? CPU Cooler - I believe this model is well reviewed online. Any reason to spend more? It's cheap enough that I don't think going smaller is appropriate unless there's a reliability/leak issue. Primary Storage - I *was* interested in the WD Black SN750 2TB but IBuyPower isn't listing it anymore. Then again - is this a speed that I won't use? Sound - here's a slight side question. Can I have 5.1 audio encoded and played through the HDMI or DisplayPort of the video card? I don't mean game generated 5.1 - I mean previously encoded movies that need Dolby processing (which the Realtek audio supports) decoded/encoded and sent over the HDMI to be played by my receiver as Dolby or DTS instead of just 2-channel? With my laptop that wasn't an option - I didn't know if current products provide for a connection between the soundcard/onboard audio and the video card. Link to the configurator with details below: https://www.ibuypower.com/Store/AMD-Ryzen-9-Configurator-II/W/1537364 Case NZXT H710 Tempered Glass Gaming Case - Matte White Processor AMD Ryzen 9 5900X Processor (12X 3.7GHz/64MB L3 Cache) Motherboard GIGABYTE X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI - WiFi , ARGB Header (2), USB 3.2 Ports (6 Type-A), M.2 Slot (2) Memory 16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR4-4000 Memory Module-Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory Video Card AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT - 16GB (VR-Ready) Power Supply 850 Watt - Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB - 80 PLUS Gold, Fully Modular Processor Cooling iBUYPOWER DEEPCOOL GAMERSTORM RGB 360mm CASTLE 360EX Liquid Cooler Primary Storage 2TB SEAGATE FIRECUDA 520 M.2 PCI-E 4.0 NVME Gen 4 SSD - Gen4 Read: 5000 MB/s, Write: 4400 MB/s, Gen3 Read: 3450 MB/S, Write: 2500MB/s Secondary Storage 6TB WD Black Hard Drive -- 256MB Cache, 7200RPM, 6.0Gb/s-Single Drive Sound Card 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard Network Card Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100) Operating System Windows 10 Pro-(64-bit) Warranty 3 Year Standard Warranty Service Case Fans 3x [ARGB] InWin 120mm Saturn ASN120 Pack w/ARGB Controller Advanced Cabling Options Professional Wiring - for all standard default cables inside the system Advanced Build Options - Thermal Paste Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste-Top of the range thermal paste with excellent thermal conductivity Subtotal $3,848.00

i bought a custom pc and the downloading speed is terrible compared to other devices in my house. ive tried to reset my wi-fi, installed updated wi-fi software, and im out of words. i did have to install my own drivers with a disc, and because i didnt have a disk i had to use a usb and armoury crate, it says that everything i need is installed and that everything is ready to go, i probably being stupid but does anyone mind helping me out?

I prefer air coolers, and I love the industrial design of the dark rock pro 4. I want to replace the 120mm external fan with a high static pressure rgb fan. My only concern is whether or not the bracket system will work with most fans. Has anyone else here tried it?

I want a NAS that will be capable of the following: Perform backups of PC, phone... (encrypted) Act as a Plex media server (a single 4K Blu-ray quality video stream with no transcoding) Act as a BitTorrent client As the video files I want to stream have a high bitrate, I first thought about the Synology DS720+ which has a 4 core Intel Celeron J4125 which I'm sure it's powerfull enough. However, as it costs around 480 EUR, I'm considering a custom build NAS for that price and run Unraid on it (because of the increased performance and modularity). My budget is around 500 EUR, drives not included (which are going to be 2x 4TB HDD) and Unraid license also not included. Is the custom build approach worth it for my use cases? If yes, I'm really lost on which pc parts I would have to pick. Could I have some orientation or any NAS build example for my purpose? Thanks.

Hello there everyone! I was thinking I should make a little Intro to keyboards for beginners or can be a revision for seasoned keyboard enthusiast. This is an Introduction to Mechanical Keyboards and customs or just keeb stuff in general. I highly recommend checking out the Mechanical Keyboards subreddit and Keyboard Youtubers such as Taeha Types, Andy V Nguyen, Glarses, Hamaji Neo, Josef Chung, Jaeyou Park, Hipyo Tech and So many more. These channels have a lot of educational value (of keyboards) and also sprinkle a bit of comedy, some of them have sound tests of switches which I highly recommend you watching wen deciding a switch.. But now lets get into it. Lets start off with the Case. The case is the thing that holds all the shit in the keyboard together basically. There isn't really much to say about that case until we get into the PCB. Cases are usually made out of Aluminum, Plastic or Acrylic. The PCB or Printed Circuit Board is like the motherboard of the Keyboard. It registers your keystrokes and sends it to the computer, in some cases it holds your switches in (I'll talk about that later). Usually to put your switches into the PC you have to solder them with a Soldering Iron. Now today Hotswap PCBs have become more common (Hotswap PCBs are basically in every solder joint that the PCB has it is replaced with something called a Hotswap Socket, this allows you to just slot the switches inside the PCB without soldering. This is a huge time saver. The biggest manufacture of these sockets are Kale and Gateron). Another thing with PCBs is mounting. There are various of mounting styles. Popular ones include: Gasket Mount (where foam or rubber pads is stuck onto the Plate (talk about that later) or onto the board this provides a more softer typing feel and overall has more flex*), Tray Mount (That where the pcb is screwed into the case with stands off on the case, this is usually fine but most custom keyboards people are not a fan of it as it stiffens the typing feel) and So Many more! Again I encourage you to do your research on this if your interested Hotswap Sockets in a PCB DZ60RGB PCB (KBDFANS) (Example of how a common PCB looks like) *Unlike Laptop Keyboards, In the community the amount of flex a keyboard has usually contributes to the typing feel and in some cases sound and a lot of people in the community like that. Now going up! We have the plate. There isn't really much to say about the plate, sometimes is holds your switches sometimes your stabilizers, sometimes both. But what it does is it secures your switches onto the PCB and keep the aligned. It also provides an way to mount your PCB onto the case as I mentioned in the PCB section of this Post. It also changes the feel of the way you type and the sound. Metallic Plates like Aluminum and Brass provide a very stiff feel and provide sometimes a pinging noise as of plates like Polyoxymethylene (aka POM) and Polycarbonate are more flexible and provide a more dense typing sound. The Plate also changes how different keys sound scattered on the board. We're Almost There! With Stabilizers. The provide stability (as in the title) to some of the longer keys such as Shift, Caps Lock, Enter, Spacebar etc. and prevent them from leaning to the other side of you don't press on the key on center. The two types of way stabilizers are mounted are Plate Mounted or PCB Mounted (Screw ins). The way that the community measures the length of these keycaps are with the letter you. 1u for example is like one of the alpha numeric keys on the keyboard like the letters, numbers and F keys. So to measure longer keycaps all you have to do is put your 1u keycaps till they measure out. It is very referenced when buying keycaps are talking about keycaps in general but I highly encourage you to look into this. We're Here! Switches. These are probably the most known elements of a keyboard. Switches are the things in the keyboard that make the sounds. There are mainly three types of switches. Linear Switches have a "linear travel when pressed meaning they require a uniform increase in force to press the switch" (For the types of switches I will be quoting Taeha Types in his video Anatomy Of A Custom Keyboard which I think I couldn't have said better myself) "There is no bump or click to the switch to let you now when the switch is actuated" (actuated is a fancy word for when the pcb register your keystroke). "Tactile Switches follow a long linear travel usually requiring a build up of force to overcome a tactile event generally in the form of a bump, around the point of actuation. Clicky Switches are switches that have a clicker mechanism of some sort that generates an audible click of some sorts". The anatomy of a switch includes the stem which is usually a cross shaped piece usually made of Nylon but can be made out of other materials like POM which I mentioned earlier. The Spring where the Stem sits, this controls the force needed to actuate the switch. The Bottom Housing where the spring lies and keeps it together with the top housing. Now there are a lot of popular ways to categories these types with colours. Blue Switches: These switches are usually Clicky and are tactile. Red Switches: These switches are linear and usually the lightest switch in a companies line up. Yellow Switches: These switches are similar to red but have a more heavier spring and or usually more smoother popularized by the hit budget switch Gateron Yellow switches which have been dubbed in a sense "Butter On a Budget" Brown Switches: These switches are tactile no click and are a mildly controversial switch due to their stems. They are called tactile but the tactile event is so weak that some people would classify them as linears. Black Switches: These switches are usually the heaviest linears in a lineup. There are a bunch more of colours like whites and pink but to keep this post brief I'll just talk about the most popular ones. The Biggest manufactures of switches are Cherry (which is arguably the most popular one but not the best), Gateron, Kalih, JWK, Durock and So Many More! Again I highly encourage you to do more research if you are interested. To add to these a very good modification is Lube and Film. (And no we are not having sex with switches get your mind out the gutter) Lube is to make your switches sound as smooth as possible and film is a little plastic or felt piece you put inside of the switch to decrease stem wobble and make the switches sound more deep. And the last part of your build keycaps. I talked briefly about keycaps in the Stabilizers section but not in detail. Lets start with Profiles. Usually different keycaps have different shapes in turn giving a different sound and typing feel. Popular profiles include: OEM (which are the keycaps that you probably currently have on your keyboard, these are one of if not the most popular keycaps not due to efficiency of typing or sound but because more keyboard manufactures like Corsair, ROG, Razer and so on use them. These are tall keycaps and slanted), Cherry (This is a popular enthusiast keycaps as popular keycaps creators such as GMK and Tao Hao use them. They are basically smaller OEM Keycaps). SA (Another popular enthusiast keycap profile, this provides a more wooden block sound to your switches, they are a very chonky switch very tall and a bit rotund), MT3 (Similar to SA Keycaps but shrunk down a bit and shaped a bit differently). Again There are SO MANY TYPES of keycap profiles and I encourage for the last time on this post to go to further research if your interested. Now materiel of the keycaps do matter, PBT and ABS Plastic are the most popular. GMK and Tao Hao use ABS which is similar to PBT. ABS feels and sounds better but PBT legends last longer. In my opinion PBT is better for intense gamers and ABS is better for day to day typists. Terminology used to the community and/or to purchase parts: GB: Meaning Group Buy, similar to a pre order but the company hasn't made them yet. IC: Interest Check, this is usually attached with a form asking you if you are interest in their product to they can start making it. Thock: Controversial term some love it some hate it but it's the sound wooden block sound that I was talking about earlier. Vendors: Vendors are places where you can get keyboard parts, Vendors are specific to your region*. R(number): These usually means Revision, so R3 would be Revision three this is usually used when buying cases Vendors according to Regions, info taken from Alexotos Vendor Region list: Canada: Ashkeebs – Parts & accessories. – stachekeebs for 5% off Zeal – Switches, parts & kits. Keyspresso – Keyboard parts and accessories. ApexKeyboards – Canadian keyboard supplies. MTBkeys – Canadian keyboard case manufacturer. Deskhero – Keyboards, accessories, and headphones. Vintkeys – Vintage keys & accessories. Minokeys – Keyboard Parts & accessories. Mech Land – Keyboards & accessories. Malvix Studio – Keyboards parts & accessories. Keyz.io – Keyboard kits WestM – Keyboard accessories RNDKBD – Keyboard kits/parts – ALEXTHEGOAT for 5% off Gboards – Parts and groupbuys! tokeebs – Parts & accessories Shockport – Keyboards parts & accessories Alphakeys – Parts & accessories HypeKeyboards – FR4 Plates KumaMech – Parts. keycaps, & accessories Agile Cables – Cables and Desk Pads United States of America: Kinetic Labs – Keyboards accessories Space Cables – Keycaps, cables, and accessories. Omnitype – Accessories, keycaps, & more. Apiary Keyboards – Content creator and build services. Novelkeys – Parts, kits, & accessories. *DROP – General keyboard goods. Elboard Keyboard Supply – Use code alexotos for 5%! Mechanical Keyboards The Key Dot Company Originative Co Asceny Gear Cannon Keys Ungodly.design – Website Teal Technik – Website for accessories Prime Keyboards – Parts and accessories Little Keyboards – Parts and PCBs. Keycult – Premier High-end Keyboards. Ringerkeys – Lube and accessories. Clawsome Boards – Keyboard parts and macro kits! Divinikey – Parts & accessories – ALEXOTOS 5% off Prevail Key Co – Lube, parts & accessories. Bolsa Supply – Keyboards parts. LastPadawan – Keyboards and accessories. Vala Supply – Keycaps and accessories. Keeb.io – Parts, kits and more! 415Keys – Keyboard parts and switches. Typr.tools – Parts and accessories 3dKeebs – Parts & Accessories American Haptics – Keycaps and silicone work mats. Thockeys – General parts & accessories 1upkeyboards – Kits, parts & accessories Dangkeebs – Keyboards, parts & more Flashquark – Keycaps & various parts eType – Acrylic Keyboards Stupid Bullets Tech – Keyboard accessories Keyspensory – Keycaps and more! Bespokekeys – Keyboard parts and accessories. CFTKB – Keyboard kits cbkbd – Keyboard Kits Keebz – Keyboard parts & Accessories United Kingdom: Noxary – Keyboards Mechboard.co.uk – Keyboards & accessories MechSupply / Uk-Keycaps – Keycaps Mechbox – Keyboard accessories Cablecult – Cables & parts Kiwi Keebs – Parts & accessories Keebcats – Parts & accessories Merge Design – Macro Pads Unspoken Deskpads – Desk mats Caps unlocked – Keyboards and accessories Optic Keyboards – Keyboard parts Protozoa Studio – Keyboard accessories Prototypist – Keyboards, accessories and more NOESC – Switches and Keycaps Asia Kibou – Keyboards and Parts. – code “alexotos” for 5% off KBDfans – Parts, kits, & pre-assembled boards. Graystudio – Keyboard kits kprepublic – Parts, keyboards & accessories. Wuque Studio – Keyboards and accessories. Keys.my – Parts and Lube Percent Studio – Custom keyboard Monstargear – Keyboards and accessories. Melgeek – Parts and cases + extras! iLumKB – Parts zFrontier Yushakobo.jp – Keyboards & accessories. Kochi Keyboard – Keyboard parts Thick Thock – Keyboards and parts Zion Studio – Keyboards accessories and parts Mechkey Store – Keyboard accessories & cables Justkeys – Cables, artisans & deskmats Tokyo Keyboard – Keyboard kits & accessories Swagkeys – Keyboards & parts Pantheon Keys – Parts & accessories Momoka – Switches, keycaps, and switch testers Australia RAMA WORKS – Beautiful high end kits & accessories. Switchkeys Australia – Keycaps and parts! Lowkeykeyboards – Website Keyboard Treehouse – Keyboard kits / parts Daily Clack – Kits, parts and accessories Europe Salvun – Keyboards projects, parts, & more. Loob.no – A variety of lubricant’s, accessories and more. Candykeys – Website Keygem – Website Qlavier Homerow Co. – Keyboard Parts Oblotzky.Industries Mykeyboard.eu – Parts and keysets based in the EU FalbaTech – Keyboard kits Mekanisk – Keyboards & accessories Keebwerk – Keyboards & accessories Splitkb – Split keyboards and accessories Keycapsss – Keyboards parts Eloquent Clicks – Keyboards & accessories 42.keebs – Parts & accessories ioKeyboards – Keycaps and parts Central/South America: Fancy Customs – Keycaps, keyboards & parts LatamKeys – Keyboards parts and accessories RHESET – Keyboards part & accessories Africa CtrlShiftEsc – Keyboards and accessories Other: kono – Variety of keyboards. Keyhive – Parts and unique keyboard items. LFKeyboards – Website EUNBU – Vintage Switches Hexkeyboards – Keycaps & accessories AVX Works – Plates *Another great tool to use is keebmap! It’s a great interactive map of some great vendors in the hobby! Also some of the text copied weird With that said that's my Intro to Mechanical Keyboards. Have fun tearing down your Corsair K70s only to realize that it doesn't have a Hotswap PCB. Welcome to the Custom Keyboard rabbit Hole! Have fun

Heyo I want to have a full cover monoblock for an X570 board similar to that of the X570 Aqua (no longer available btw), but the waterblock doesn't exist. Is there some place that I could go to have them make a custom waterblock?

So a few days ago i posted a topic here for advices on a "D15S to CLC 280" upgrade. The replys uniformly suggests me to just kept the D15S. Unfortunately things goes south faster than i expected. As it turns out the performance of D15S relies heavily on the ambient temperature and the air temperature inside the case. After a day of use (or gaming) the CPU (5900X) is much easier to throttle than in the morning of a day, especially the other heat source inside the case is a 450W beast GPU. So i started to find a better cooling solution, only to find out that i was in an awkward position because of the case(4000D Airflow). Don't get me wrong, i think this case is fantastic for its price and the airflow itself is very decent, but only when you are trying to cool down a overclocked 5900X, the problem start to occur. Overall there are these problems if i want to upgrade to a better cooling solution (280 AIO and better) 1. Front radiator problem: 360 aio fits, but only in a non-GN-approved way, and there really isn't that many affordable high-performance 360 AIO cooler in the market. Liquid freezer 2 is a good option, but the radiator is too thick to fit in the front. 280 aio fits well and the pricing is reasonable, but for a push-pull config it interferes with my GPU, no matter it is a slim rad aio or a liquid freezer ii. 2. Top radiator problem: 280 aio does not fit when you have a slightly taller ram. Ripjaws V is not the tallest ram, but still tall enough to invalid this option. (slim rad may fit, 240mm is not affected) 3. Exhaust fan problem: The rear of the case can only accommodate a 120mm fan, and the top mesh is pretty dense. My S12As can only move a bit of air through them. 4. Case size problem: Even if i saved enough money for a custom loop, this case is too small for one. So these are some ideas i have and i'd like to hear your opinions: 1. Wait till next-gen D15 and upgrade to the new fan (possible 1-2c improvement) 2. 240/280mm slim rad aio on the top (?c improvement) Example: CLC 280, EK AIO Basic 240 3. 280mm aio front with half push-pull and half push only (?c improvement) Example: Liquid Freezer 280 4. 360mm slim rad aio (?c improvement) Example: EK AIO Basic 360, H150i family Thanks in advance.

Hey all, I need some assistances on these prebuilds I'm stuck between the following 3 and unsure which one to go for Any input is appreciated PC will be mostly used for gaming and editing vids Thank! https://www.microcenter.com/product/635981/powerspec-g360-gaming-pc https://www.microcenter.com/product/630918/powerspec-g707-gaming-pc https://www.microcenter.com/product/636486/powerspec-g359-gaming-pc

Hi forum! I'm looking at Xbox 360 Guitar Hero wired controllers, and they're insanely expensive, with used ones going for 150, in average condition, and new ones going for 300 dollars! I'm interested because I'm looking to stream Clone Hero soon, and came to the forum to see if there's anyone that makes a controller compatible with the game, possibly even custom, because if I'm going to pay 150+ I might as well make sure it works right? =) Hey, who knows, with any luck someone on the team can send the request up the chain, you miss 100% of the shots you don't take!

Hello, I am looking for a website/store that can do custom hats, I have one that I really wanted to be made done but I can't really seem to find anywhere that can offer a lot of customization or one that I can post an image and have it automatically turned into the custom hat. Any help will do pls. I am willing to pay at least 50 for it. Thank You.

Hey all, Ive been a pc enthousiast for a while and i'm about to tackle my first custom waterloop in my "newly build" system. Recently ive upgraded my case to a ThermalTake View 71 and started collecting parts for my watercooling build. So far the parts i'm going for and/or already have are : - Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ( it has ekwb block on it for the vram the cpu is still seperate ) - Asus GTX 1080ti ( wich already has a ekwb block on it and backplate ) - Corsair Vengeance RGB 32gb (4x8gb) 3200mhz - AMD 2700x ( currently possibly changing to a 3950x or a 5900x ) - Corsair m.2 970 pro 1tb x2 - Corsair ssd 2tb - Corsair hx1200 watt powersupply - Corsair Hydro X Series XH303i RGB custom watercooling kit ( for good reason explained below ) - Corsair Hydro X Series XR5 360mm radiators x2 ( 1 included in the kit and 1 bought seperate ) - Bykski Distroplate for the ThermalTake View 71 ( 360rad size ) - Phanteks D140 Distroplate ( small size replacing the rear exhaust fan ) - iFixit Pro Kit ( thanks LTT ) Now for cooling wise clearly i want to go custom loop since i already have acquired some or atleast most parts. I'm still awaiting the arrival of both distroplates and some minor stuff but ive already started to build most of what i have into the case. The issue that i am facing or atleast that i think i am facing is. The Bykski Distroplate has a mount on it for a pump and i'm quoting the manufacturer atm "compatible with various brands ddc pumps or bykski own". Corsair XH303i comes with a kind of reservoir wich has a ddc pump wich i have taken apart and normaly ( according to my calculations ) is gonna fit on the Bykski distroplate. Now all the components i have and want to watercool or better sayed have a loop on it are the cpu, vram, gpu, 2x 360rads, 1 big distroplate wich wil function as reservoir and pump, 1 small distroplate. The thing i'm worried about or am wondering is, is that ddc pump gonna manage it for that entire loop or will i need to add a second pump/reservoircombo to the loop? Thanks in advance for any help or advice on this matter. Greetings Chimmie ps : picture added is how the build currently looks ( i have a corsair h100i running on it atm and a gtx 1070 to test fit everything and ofc testing to see if everything works and what my layout is gonna be, preplanning tubes and bends and such ).

Hello good people. Just wanted to show you my mancave machine. Build description is on the imgur album. Payphone to PC The specs are very modest but RDR2 medium quality getting 60fps isn't bad. But seriously made me consider a dedicated GPU. There isn't one that would fit organically, but with a riser I might be able to achieve it. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks.

This will be my first custom build, I hate my prebuilt and feel confident to build my own, I want to do it right but I want to make sure I Have all the parts I need, also any help to get the right cables from custommods would help. i plant to watch a video step by step to help build it as well Budget (including currency): $1000 US to upgrade Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: triple A title games, to have a good 1440p gaming experience so nothing too extrodinary, future graphic design work as well Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): using my current EVGA geforece 1660 Ti and my current storage because I do not know how to transfer all of my current stuff to faster memory, which is a 2tb of seagate hard drive I think and a SATA of 250gb current upgrade cpu ryzen 5 2600 ryzen 7 3700x 3.6 ghz 8 core motherboard gigabyte AX370-DS3H-CF Asus TUF Gaming x570 plus wifi ram corsair 16gb 1064MHz corsair vengeance rgb pro 2x8 DDR4-3200 GPU geforce EVGA 1660 Ti ----------------------- storage 2tb of seagate SSD would like to upgrade to faster memory but dont know how to transfer it over, for both memory seagate SATA of 250gb ^^^^^^^^ Power I have no idea what my prebuilt came with.. upgrade to a corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ gold fully modular case a cyberpower case preferably a white case that is easy to built in with rgb header already in it, corsair ICUE rgb 220T cooling two intake fans, one outtake Corsair ICUE RGB pro xt 75 cfm with preinstalled cpu cooler monitor LG 2560x1440p 144hz 27GL850 OS windows any help is greatly appreciated with a better case or anyway to make this easier!!!

Hi, just found out there's also a LTT forum. LTT really inspired me to build a PC myself when they released their Desk-PC video. I really enjoyed building and planning it and I'm quite pleased with the result. Since LTT practically taught me how to build a pc I thought I'll share it with you. Immediately after watching the desk-PC video I knew I wanted one too so I started thinking about how I could build it and how it should look like. Once I had a good plan in my head I started modeling all the components of the PC to figure out all the cable lengths and other important measurements. Fortunately there's a maker space close to where I live so I had the opportunity to cnc mill all big parts out of plywood. I also modeled and 3d printed multiple smaller parts for the PC but I don't want that post to be too long. Then it was time to test fit all the parts, put them together and sand, prime, sand and paint everything. modeled 3d printed covers for the 200mm fans so they look the same regardless of their orientation Sounds easy in this short summary but man it took me a long time to create all the necessary parts for my pc (cant see them here) make them all fit and learning how to use a cnc machine in the first place After all of that was done it was finally the day where everything was ready to be assembled. It was also the day I was moving to a new place. So naturally the first thing that had to be running was the pc here you can see what all the cnc milled channels are being used for. Mostly extensions since I wanted the motherboard to be in the middle of the desk. Already looks way better with the thin wooden sheet on top. Aaaand done Funny thing is that when I first wanted to turn on my pc I panicked for a moment because it didn't do anything. Turned out that I just forgot to turn on the switch on the power supply In the end I just could not resist to turn the 3d blocking of the motherboard into a highly detailed 3d model and render a couple of sequences to also test if the pc is stable throughout multiple days of 100% cpu load when overclocked. After some crashes when rendering for longer than about 20 hours I got it dialed in and my 2700x now runs at 4.2GHz on all cores at 100% load for days (3200MHz ram).