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How do I fix this? there's a literal stream of micro bubbles. Temps seem ok but i know they could be better. I'm at 25-30 cpu idle, 25-35 gpu idle, 40-55 cpu heavy load, 40-60 gpu heavy load. Cpu is 12700k oc to 5.0, gpu is 3080 oc +75 core +115 memory. iv bled it checked concentration, ph around 9. 10000000_7591201840919147_2625494337336888498_n.mp4
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i us the Sweet-Ambar-Blue-Dark-v40.tar.xz as my shell theme an my legacy app theme an kora for my folders an icons but i miss the native transparency of the Tokyonight Dark Borderless Gnome Shell Theme which i always wanted about 15% more transparent but could never figure out what lines an values in the config files to change to do so id like some help an advice if not just tell me which lines an values in what config file an where to change in the Sweet-Ambar-Blue-Dark-v40.tar.xz theme file to achieve this please this would be a great help to me an the look of my gnome desktop. id like it to look like this
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- linux
- gtk 3 theme
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Fish gills work in a funny way, the water flows from the more oxygenated area to the less oxygenated end. This means that the difference in oxygen between the water and the gill is at a consistent and low gradient instead of a big spike and then a loss of efficiency. I'm looking into water-cooling my next build, not because I want it to be colder but because I want it to be quieter. To that end I imagine if you had double the rads you could run the fans at half the speeds to make it very quiet under long term load. I also very much enjoy making compact builds that can sit on my desk and not take up a huge footprint, but water-cooling is very much the antithesis of that, especially with any case that supports more than one rad. To bring all that together, what if I stacked multiple rads (like 5) together in a chamber not side by side but with the vents end to end, and placed fans in-between them. Running in series with the hot water into the last rad and running the cold water out of the first. This should like a gill let heat transfer consistently through the whole stack at low fan speeds and also be very dense. I could laser cut a case where the pc components are in a compact stack in the top with no fans, and pipe the cpu and gpu coolant into a different chamber with one intake and one exhaust opposite. My question is would it work or just be a waste of money?
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Hello I need a little help deciding what to go with building a custom hard line set up. I'm using a new amd am5 chip, the only things I really care about aesthetically is id like to use a reservoir with rgb and maybe use frosted hardline tubing. I'm not interested in a aio I want something that looks really cool. Is there a pc part picker like website I can easily layout everything I'll need to order? Specs Amd Ryzen 9 7900X3D ASUS Prime 650 Plus Thermaltake tower 500
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- hardline tube
- custom
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I need to find a 12inch screen, so looking for pointers as I am struggling. I'm building what could be considered an all in one. I have my granddad's old CRT that was bought in 1971 or 72 and is a 12 inch 5:4 black and white unit. I used to play mega drive on this when I was little and I want to breathe some life into it instead of putting it into landfill as it's been around longer than I have. I've built a cheap and cheerful micro atx i5/gt980 pc for emulation, and 3d printed board mounts and fan shrouds etc. I need a non industrial/pos (point of sale- not piece of $hit!) screen as I want decent colour and contrast etc to fit the aperture which is 8x10 inches with an almost 12 inch diagonal. Best fit so far has been something like the surface pro 4 display (12 inch 3x2) but finding a hdmi/dvi driver board is near impossible. I've been looking at tablet screens as I can't find anything else that fits in terms of size, reasonable resolution and most importantly screen ratio. I originally posted in r/buildapc but I need more detailed recommendations and can't post images there so I'm spreading the net in the hope that someone has an idea... Any help is appreciated.
- 4 replies
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- 12 inch
- crt conversion
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So I've a pretty new PC builder, just built my first tower about a month ago now after switching away from Mac and so far I'm loving it! Just had a question about my power supply, and swapping out cables. So I bought a Radeon 7900XTX, and it didn't come with any kind of PCIe splitter/adapter, which I think is the standard for most GPUs? It also h as three 8 pin connecters, so because of that I ended up needing to use 2 different two pin connections to the power supply, resulting in one end of the cable just not being used and hanging under the GPU all ugly. So naturally, I wanna swap it out for something more visually appealing. Only thing is, I've heard from a few sources that you shouldn't swap around PSU cables with cables not meant for your specific unit because it can harm it, but I also know custom cables are a very common thing. Am I getting my wires crossed, or is there information that I'm missing? Can I just get any PCIe to three 8 pin cable and chuck it in there without any issues? Or should I stick with 2 separate cables? Not sure how much power can go through just one and this GPU naturally consumes a lot of power, so I wanted to ask and get a crystal clear answer because risking anything. It sounds like a basic question but hard to phrase in a simple Google search. Thanks in advance!
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I took the input from you guys and reading reviews to create this build. Mainly going to be playing games like MSFS, STALKER, Arma, DCS. Did I miss anything important or did I do a good job of combining suggestions and reading reviews? PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3qsKh3 CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($389.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.90 @ Amazon) Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($8.94 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial P5 Plus W/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.97 @ Amazon) Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card ($949.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS PLUS 850 Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit ($121.98 @ Other World Computing) Monitor: Gigabyte M34WQ 34.0" 3440 x 1440 144 Hz Monitor ($409.99 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Logitech G512 CARBON RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($95.00 @ Amazon) Mouse: Logitech G502 HERO Wired Optical Mouse ($39.99 @ Amazon) Headphones: Logitech Pro X 7.1 Channel Headset ($89.99 @ Amazon) Speakers: Logitech Z200 10 W Speakers ($39.99) Total: $2795.69 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-11-12 13:21 EST-0500
- 3 replies
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- build
- first timer
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basically, I've been trying to create a fan curve that isn't the silent mode in smart fan as the silent mode still ramps ramps up fast from 40c which is my idle lol. Anyway, I've been trying to customise it but it won't let me at the points just aren't moving. My fans are 3 pins so I have to control them in the bios as they don't have PWM which is annoying. I've got an Aorus b550 elite matx mobo. I can't use software to control the curve due to it being 3 pin.
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I want to build it myself I do not ming buying stuff from different places Budget: I do not really know how much these things cost Keycaps: Type tactile or linear I do not care about RGB but it needs to look good Hot spot I will be happy to answer any question
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About a year ago an idea hit me right in the head about putting a screen into a guitar, from there the idea snowballed into a whole project that has been in the development for quite some time now, but now it's finally turning into reality. This development process really kicked my butt from the start with all the logistical ideas on how things would connect, what parts to use both in the guitar and what computer should I put in. In later stages a lot of time was spent on making my own computer case that would allow me to insert and remove the computer with relative ease, as if you want to upgrade parts down the road. This project also got me into 3D printing since that was the best way to make such small case with all the necessary features, as it did allow me to rapidly demo out ideas and concepts. The current build details include these parts (can be subject to change as the project goes on): PC: - Minisforum UM560 (16Gb ram + 512Gb M.2) - choose just because its a powerhouse of a pc, has decent cooling solution that alows me to exaust the head out with relative ease, also fits perfectly in the guitar body thickness wise. it also has a display port type C on the front that is going to be used to power the display in the guitar. LED stuff: - Micro LEDs APA102 - 200 LED/M - found LEDs with great density and width that fits perfectly into the edge binding of the guitar (tested how it's going to turn out before hand, light is not that well defused, but that is to be expected when there is only 2mm of resin between the LED and the outer edge so I can live with it) - ESP32 board - I am using two of these to power and control LEDs in the neck and body separately that i can later combine in to one using WLED, planing on having it soundreactive, that can be done through WLED or LEDFX DISPLAY: - WaveShare 7 inch QLED display: I am using it since it's about the biggest display I can fit between the bridge of the guitar and the neck and it has a decent way of mounting it GUITAR PARTS: Bridge: GHOST ResoMax NV - The only reason I'm using this bridge is because of the display that's in between the bridge and neck, there is no place for normal guitar pickups. But there is also another problem when it comes to picking up noise from the LEDs or the computer it's self, that's why I choose a bridge that has pizza pickups in it that allows me to pick up the sounds the string produce with no noise from the LED light. The plan is for this guitar to have the ability to be played as a normal guitar, have on board recording capabilities, casual gaming/working, RGB edge binding that reacts to the music you're playing on the guitar, or the music on the PC its self. here are some progress fotos so far! Guitar body before the edge binding is on and unpainted Computer case End goal for the body So much testing It fits, it sits
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Has anyone tried to watercool their DDR5 ram sticks? What product did you use? I can’t seem to find ones. And the ones I do find say it doesn’t fit them right but will work. I thought about the EKWB. But those don’t fit. So I’m wondering if I need to worry about the heat sinks fitting or not.
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Hello everyone, I am in the process of setting up an eGPU for my 2017 MacBook Pro using an Nvidia Tesla K10 GPU and an EXP GDC Beast. I am running Windows through Boot Camp on my MacBook Pro. My issue is related to power. The Nvidia Tesla K10 requires both a 6-pin and an 8-pin power connector, and I am not sure if my current power supply unit (PSU) can provide the necessary power and has the correct connectors. I initially thought my PSU was a Corsair 750W model, but it turned out that was not the case. Unfortunately, I don't currently have the exact model details for my PSU. Here is what I have tried so far: I've tried various combinations of connecting just the Beast, just the Nvidia K10, and also tried rigging the Beast together with the GPU. However, none of these attempts have been successful. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to proceed? Would it be advisable to get a new PSU, and if so, what specifications should I be looking for? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! Best regards, plyght UPDATE: I might have found the solution, BUT haven't tested yet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089YSVN1S/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=AR8SH30BZZHQN&psc=1 Basically, you have to use the EXP GDC Mini PCIE cable to HDMI that came with it, get an external SSD Enclosure, use the adapter linked above, and voila! dm or comment if you need help
- 1 reply
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- macbookpro17
- egpu
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So I got a Asus ROG strix 4080 and upgraded from a 750 PSU to my new 1000 Corsair. After some troubleshooting I thought my PSU was DOA but after getting a replacement Corsair PSU I'm having the same issues. Help. I wanna use my 4080 but I'm at my wits end. I get motherboard lights but when I press power button I get no change.. even the start button on my Mobo gives no change. Again. Help. Asus maximus hero xi Wifi Mobo 64 gig ddr4 ram 9th gen i7, 1151
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Budget (including currency): 500 (Total price: 520) US dollars Country: The US Games, programs, or workloads that it will be used for: Beamng.drive, Minecraft. etc I got the 1080ti for free from my uncle, I got the PSU for free from a friend I have 2 fans zip-tied to the front until my new fans arrive. I have them controlled by a fan curve which controls its volts (no PWM) It's a bit loud when under load because the front fans are not a good brand Just salvaged them from a couple of old-timey PSUs I had laying around heres a Userbenchmark run I did: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/61749939 I know how much you guys hate them, I just like to see how they rate it And yes I'm using the stock cooler, it keeps it under 70C for me I need to re-apply thermal paste on the GPU, and clean it. The paste is coming soon so I'll do that soon foot pics you creep
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So im looking at building my own offline security camera system using POE, and having it feed to a computer from switch to pc directly, and using a program to stream and record all the foods from the IPCameras, im wanting to have upwards of maybe 12? cameras, what kind of system would i need for something like this?
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Hello again! Anyone have any good sources I can check out for buying parts for my custom liquid cooling build? I keep going back to EKWB’s website but their CPU and GPU blocks keep going out of stock and I love their custom made blocks was wondering if there’s any other sources out there worth looking at. Thermaltake and Cosair wasn’t too impressed with. Optimus was the same as EKWB out of stock on a lot of things but their CPU block looked nice. Idk how to use Bitspowers website just seemed really confusing lol. Thanks in advance! also if anyone wanted to know my current setup. mobo - Gigabyte X570 I Aorus Pro CPU - Ryzen 7 5800X3D GPU - MSI RTX 4090 gaming x trio Case - Thermaltake Core P1
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Hey all. I recently found photos of a old PC build I made 7 or 8 years ago using a Behringer Amp and converting it into a PC case. I no longer have it due to a house move and not having space to keep it, which was a shame as it was a good looking build IMO. USed a 200mm fan in place of the speaker at the front and used a sheet of aluminium to create a new top plate to fit the PSU. Thought it would be cool to post up hear and see what people think. I originally used this for my bass which I'd owned since i was 16. It was damaged by some old house mates during a huge fight at 3am, including the bass guitar. I was gonna throw it out, but I couldn't bring myself to do it. A few months later I lost my job and had to sell a lot of stuff to make rent, including my gaming PC at the time. I had some old spare PC parts to use in the meantime, but lacked a case. I then found this amp and thought "This would make for an aweome looking retro build", so I ripped out the old guts of the amp and went from there. I can't remember the parts i used. It had an old core duo I think and a old ATI HD something. Later I switched out the parts to an i5 second gen and a GTX 750 ti so I could play fallout 4. Shame I got rid of it in the end, but such is life.
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Does anyone know if there's a 3d print file somewhere of a bracket to surface-mount a typical atx power button? Or if something like this already exists for purchase? Horrible paint mock-up included below!
- 16 replies
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- atx
- power button
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So I currently have this motherboard Z590 AORUS PRO AX, and I have 500 gb M.2 in storage. I'd like to upgrade to a minimum 4tb SSD. I'm new to PC stuff. My computer was made by a guy at a PC shop in my home town an hour and a half away. I'd like to start upgrading my PC myself to not deal with the hassle of bringing my PC all over the place. Upgrading my storage seems really simple to start, but I'm confused on how to tell what storage I can get, and how many slots I can actually use. The storage they recommended I get is SSD, 4TB M.2 NVME PCI-E G4 HIGH PERFORMANCE, but they are charging a bit more then I want to install it. My other dilemma is I want to upgrade to 12th gen Intel CPU, as it runs Unreal Engine 5, and Maya soooo much better for rendering. And as far as I can tell those are not compatible with this motherboard. Is it better to upgrade my motherboard and CPU first, then storage to make sure it is all compatible? What are good recommendations for a new motherboard if this is the case? I need to be able to run large Unreal files, and Maya files. As well as a lot of various heavy Adobe files, and then I'd like my games to run well as well so I can relax after work. My current setup: Z590 AORUS PRO AX 11th gen Intel 17-11700k 32 GB ram RTX 3080 Ti 850 power supply
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Please rate my setup with constructive ideas to improve. Design was to allow for 100% usage of the CPU and GPU for crypto mining as well as small enough to take while traveling for work. Its a bit heavy at around 33.6 lbs but thermals are great (55C max while mining). Loud!! Thermaltake 100 case, Alphacool Monster 120mm rad + generic 120mm rad in back, i7-12700k, AMD 6800XT Sapphire Nitro+ with Alphacool waterblock, D5 Swiftech pump with Alphacool Block, EK CPU waterblock, ASUS Mini ITX Z690 motherboard, 32GB ddr4 Gskill RGB, and 5000RPM 120mm Server Fans for cooling. Custom temp gauge for water temps and PWM fan speed controller.
- 3 replies
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- mini-itx
- thermaltake
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Basically I'm looking for this But with a black (possibly matte black) solder mask I wanted to make a customized pen drive with resin, but I had a specific style in mind and green doesn't really fit. Are you aware of a specific model of pen drive that I can rip the PCB out of or that is directly sold as a PCB with a BLACK solder mask? (Preferably with a decent performance but at this point, I'm accepting anything.)
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WIth some laser equipment I really use to repair phones I wanted to try to engrave som custom stuff, made a custom spacebar for my brother, and actually really liked the result. If it was double-shot the RGB would also shine through but this was just what I had laying oruound. Was thinkinking maybe this is something people might want to buy? Considering making a service doing it, y'all think theres a market?
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Looking for a good way to hardwire some Govee products, right now, specifically the Glide Hexa Pro Panels. The idea here is while I’m still in construction on my office, I’ll run some low voltage wires into areas where I know I will be mounting these to the wall, A: so that I don’t have to use the included 36V 2A (HUGE) adapter, and B: I really want a custom look/feel, so running the adapter down the wall feels wrong. I also plan to try to hardwire some Govee light strips and other Govee products as well, this post should help me figure out what route to go and why though. -even if it’s two different type of drivers I’ll need. Need help with what products to use to make this happen. I figured I would use a female barrel connector pigtail and wire that to my low voltage wires, but honestly unsure. Also highly unsure of what driver(s) I would need Any help at all is greatly appreciated.
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I present The Lantop prototype. This is a custom built fully modular and fully upgradable AIO that can be carried around far better then other AIO out there, eblaztr comes to mind here. It will perform on par if not better then most very high end gaming laptops while providing a full 22 inch monitor. A little History on the project. A while back, in fact a couple years back, I started a project to make a large version of a laptop that would be around the same size as this project is now. However over time, I came to the conclusion that integrated keyboards just suck and would rather have a separate keyboard. It was then decided, I would go the AIO route. It was a DIY AIO. Couple years go by and the shutdown of everything had me realize that parts would take forever to arrive and gave me the idea to completely start from scratch. So after figuring out what size monitor was best suited for portability I went with a 22 inch monitor, the GFV22CB from VIOTEK . This gave me the size that I would then built the chassis around. The Build. The concept of an AIO is not new however, the ultra compact nature of SFF systems and full modularity and upgradability is something that is still to this day lacking in the AIO department particularly when it comes to how thin they are compared to todays very high gaming laptop market. So I set out to figure the bare minimum how thin could I actually go and after coming across a very specific type of server motherboard the Asrock Imb 1222, I found out that you could practically reach the sub 1 inch or 25.4 mm height and still have everything installed, with one little caveat, you need to be comfortable making 90 degree mods to atx pin connectors. This is not something that is impossible nor I would say dangerous either. Soldering is quite a simple process, just make sure you have the right tools and you should prevail. The next thing in mind was how to power such a device. It turns out that within the Small Form Factors forums exist a bunch of low to high end Psu units in both AC to DC and DC to DC. The Dynamo 360 and Hd plex 400w DC-ATX come to mind. Amongst these however exist the current pinnacle of small form factor psu from HD PLEX, the GaN 250w psu. This psu can provide most mid range system with plenty of power for everyday use and so I chose this to power my system and is only 25mm thick. I realized that anything gpu related is just a matter of removing the massive heatsink and fans and place a custom cooling solution which I did for my cpu as well. I picked the D series of coolers from Streamcom with 6 heat pipes each. From there I made a simple MOD on my motherboard and Psu atx pins to a 90 degree to allow for ease of connections as well as a quick custom mount for the D series cpu cooler which allowed for an extra 1mm of clearance. Once I got the majority of my components ready, I began building the chassis itself. The chassis contains the monitor and the computer in one small form factor size being a total of 36mm thicccc slim and is 520mm long by 320mm wide. It is built all in aluminum and since I have access to welding equipment, I was able to weld together 1/2inch square tubing together to make the outside frame and then weld and formed sheet inside to house and mount the components and bridge the wiring for the monitor from the other side through some cutouts. I then proceeded to acquire some carbon fiber tubing mostly for both looks but to keep weight down. They have slots that allow spring pins to hold the legs in place in both upright and collapsed mode and the rear leg stores in a slot of the 1/2 square tubing. The final two pieces the front and rear covers are simply aluminum sheets of 1.6mm thinness and provides the securing of the monitor along with some screws and double sided foam for tension and retention for the monitor, whilst the rear cover is a perforated sheet that allows for cooling and connection of the DB series cooling solution from streamcom to radiates the heat into the perforated sheet which is then cooled by blower fans mounted at lower portion of the chassis. The top portion of the chassis has perforation for added ventilation and cutouts for access to the motherboard IO. The future. The build is completed and I am currently running test and also enjoying the computer for gaming and other everyday computers things including cad work. I for one am currently looking for some new blower fans that are better suited for my build, getting some nice heatsink for the VRM and also improving the build in terms of things like the push pins that are a bit janky to actuate and maybe the legs could be even sturdier. In theory I could also make a new chassis that is smaller by replacing one side of the square tubing for a channel shape or formed piece of aluminum. Perhaps in the future. Also improving the cooling system to also cool the Psu would benefit this system as well. All in all I believe that this is an excellent proof of concept and called it "The Lantop" as it suits that role quite well for what is has been built for. I hope I will have more to add to this build and hope you are all inspired, take care out there.