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Hello, I have a Rzyen 7 2700x paired with 3200MHz ram which I'm trying to overclock and I'm trying to find the best cas latency for the pair. At the moment I have cl16 3200MHz but would any instabilities occour if I push it top cl14? And would it be healthy for the ram? I'm not very good with this overclocking stuff so i got a ram calculator to do it for me which is down below. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

I only have 70% isopropyl alcohol on hand and the thermal paste I'm using is from nuctua. I saw youtube videos of people putting in alcohol on the socket and using a tooth brush to clean. I tried doing the same thing but I just but in a little bit of alcohol to clean.

So recently i got a second set of the same ram i had i laid my pc down to install it while using a good amount of force i heard a pop but not like ram installed pop it sounded like it came from somewhere else in the pc every thing runs and stuff, left it running for a 10 or so hours so i could install some stuff am i all good what could it have been?

I just got an NZXT Kraken 360mm White RGB AIO and I have it installed on a Ryzen 7 5700x. I am using HWiNFO for temps and also have "Fan Xpert 4" installed through Asus's AI Suite and NZXT CAM installed. My CPU Temps are between 40-60c when Idle while NZXT CAM is reporting that the liquid is 31c. I don't know if I need to take the Cooler back off and apply some of my own thermal paste (I used what was pre-installed on the cooler) I have the Header that comes off the AIO plugged into the CPU_FAN header on my Asus Prime B550-Plus Motherboard with the fan speed set to 100% (I can plug it into the AIO_PUMP header but it looks better and is easier to use the CPU_FAN header). Any Help or suggestions are Welcome, Thanks! IMG20231225225720.jpg

Hey guys so Im stuck between buying Ryzen 7 7800x 3D and Ryzen 9 7950x 3D. My use case is gaming and editing and I would also appreciate if you could recommend the best motherboard for whichever cpu suits me.

Hello everyone! This is my first forum post, so please let me know if I'm doing anything out of order. Recently, one of my fans stopped working on boot, so I was getting a System Fan (90B) error. I went into my BIOS and changed my fan settings to be always on, which is how I figured out that it was only one of the fans that stopped working. After booting the computer, everything seemed to be working fine, except that my CPU was being throttled down to 0.38 GHz, which, after some digging, seems to be the lowest speed for my CPU. (I used this link, but it was referring to an Intel CPU.) Every once in awhile it jumps back up to around 3-4 GHz, but immediately goes back down afterward. Does anyone know how I can keep the clock speeds up with something like Ryzen Master? I don't want to take apart my laptop to see what's wrong with the other fan just yet because I'll have to buy new rubber feet and thermal paste after the teardown. Any input would be much appreciated :) System info: System Model HP ENVY x360 Convertible 15-eu1xxx Processor AMD Ryzen 7 5825U with Radeon Graphics, 2000 Mhz, 8 Core(s), 16 Logical Processor(s) OS Name Microsoft Windows 11 Home Version 10.0.22621 Build 22621

Background: I have a Dell G5 5590 that is exhibiting some odd behavior. Specs are as follows: I5 9300H GTX 1650 32 GB Ram (Dual Channel) I've done a few things to this PC in this order: Cleaned the fans (spraying air cannister condensate into them by accident causing notable whining) Installed MSI Afterburner to attempt to give my GPU a small bump. This resulted in battery drain even when plugged in when gaming (and some really bad battery activity such as not charging to 100%). Uninstalled MSI Afterburner I removed my battery as it began to swell and used my laptop exclusively plugged in. went from 8gb to 32 gb of ram Recently replaced SSD and reimaged with fresh windows 10 (issue still persists) The Problem: Performance began to dip after Uninstalling MSI Afterburner and got notably worse when i removed my battery. During game sessions, I would experience extreme dips in FPS (80fps to low 15s) and would stay low for a notable amount of time. Generally this happened when more was happening on screen, however this was not the only trigger as it would happen when I hadn't moved in game at all with nothing on screen. For a time the fans would kick in, however they recently have not (though they are still functional, aka i can force them to 100% speed). With task manager open, I noticed my clock speeds acting extremely weird, with clock speeds dropping extremely low when under load. During my testing for example, in a situation where multiple abilities on screen, my frames dropped from 80 to 10, and when I checked my clock speeds, they were 1.15Ghz (For context the base clock of my CPU is 2.4Ghz). My temperatures at that moment were around 60c. What I've Tried: Running Aida 64 and stressing my CPU had a similar effect where my clock speeds dropped from 2.4Ghz to around 1.1Ghz under load, This was without any temperature spikes or anything, once under load the clockspeeds would simply drop. NOTE: During this test Aida 64 did not show the warning for thermal throttling. Fresh install of Windows, however problem still persists in games (I have not benchmarked aida 64 in this new install) My Question: What could be the cause of this downclock underload? I will be doing more testing with Aida64 and other tools, trying to replace parts by ordering them through dell. Is it a voltage problem? perhaps with the battery gone my 130W powersupply is unable to supply enough power? I'm no longer sure where to look, and some help would be much appreciated! Thank you so much for reading, I'm thankful for any help here!

Budget: No budget, just need help deciding on CPU Games, programs or workloads it will be used for: ok, long story short, I will use the PC, 95% of the time, for productivity and work. The main programs used are: Photoshop (working with effects, large files, several files at once, and multiple layers for each file) Illustrator Premiere Pro (working with 4K clips in the timeline, then export to FullHD for social media. Nothing crazy here effects/editing-wise) After Effects (working with both 4k and full HD size canvas and projects. Mix of simple and complex animations) Sometimes 2 of these applications are running at the same time, each one doing its own stuff. Current situation: My current setup (cpu) is made of a ryzen 7 3700x, 32gb ddr4 ram, X570 I Aorus PRO wifi mobo, gigabyte 3070, and everything inside a CM NR200P. I'm looking for an upgrade of just the cpu with ram and mobo related obv (don't want to keep the AM4 socket) and my thoughts are on these 2 cpus: Brand new i5-14600k (i know it's the same as the 13600k, but the price is almost the same, so why not pick the newest gen?) Slightly used Ryzen 9 7900x They will have the same price as the 7900x is slightly used and the performance are similar. Which one you gonna pick? Other details: The 14600k has both P-Cores and E-Cores and looking around for tests, they will help a lot with the Adobe Suite and the programs i'm gonna use it for...on the other hand the 7900x is a beast and beats the intel in multi-core performance (synthetic benchmarks). My necessities are scrubbing through the timeline on Premiere and AE without too much lag or buffer time and working in ps with ease. Export time are also important, as fast as possible because time is money in my case I'm gonna cool the cpu with a 240/280mm aio in my mini-itx case, and very probably i'm gonna do some undervolt, PBO, watt cap, etc, just to lower cpu temps a bit on both intel and ryzen. I'm available for other recommendations but should match the same price as the 14600k.

I haven't upgraded the PC in a couple of years and it's due. This area is not my specialty so I was looking for some advice. The GPU is at the top of my list along with a new monitor. What else should I look at? Nvidia GTX 1080 GPU AMD Ryzen 7 1700 Eight-Core Processor 16.0GB Single-Channel DDR4 RAM Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. AB350M-DS3H-CF (AM4) Motherboard 931GB Western Digital WDC WDS100T2B0A-00SM50 (SATA SSD) Drive The SSD card was my most recent upgrade, I plan to put in an RTX 4070 along with a new monitor to go with it of course. What else should I think about upgrading for better gaming performance?

I couldn't find any Isopropyl alcohol, I wonder if it is ok to use ethyl alcohol from the drug store, I got like an 80% one.

Hello, I was just told that Infinity fabric instability shows up as performance degradation, so I would like a benchmark (preferably fast) that will be able to convey this information.

Hi, I'm currently speccing out a budget laptop (Lenovo Ideapad 3) on top of my desktop for some studies abroad, I'll be doing some web browsing, video playback, word-editing & Excel, and some relatively light database management (Access) and QGIS/ ArcGIS workloads. I'm torn between the i5-12450H and the i3-1215U. Both would come with 16GB of RAM (5800 Mhz DDR5 for the first, and 3200Mhz DDR4 for the latter). I haven't found many reliable performance comparatives online. The i3 system is 70 bucks cheaper and comes with a better battery. Is the i3 a good choice? Or will I notice enough of a performance difference to justify shelling out for the i5 instead? Thanks

I accidentally dropped the CPU while inserting it into the socket and now can't post. Ezdebug says CPU. Going to attempt the repair in about an hour. Anyone have any advice? Y'all think I'll be able to save the motherboard? Please point out any bent or misaligned pins you see, I'm having some difficulty seeing the problem. I'll attach some photos....

Me and my friend build a pc with an: ryzen 7 7800x3d rx 7900 xtx b650 tuf gaming board 750w psu be quite bronze we were able to get into the bios but not futher. right now we only get a red cpu light. after we shut down the pc it started to get realy wired. it turns on than insteand off. than it turns on but we only getting a red light on cpu. is it a problem with the cpu or the psu. idk what we did wrong Thanks for your help

I have been noticing a lot of frame drops and stuttering in the video games I have been playing lately (esports titles at low settings), and I think I'm ready for a CPU upgrade. Not really looking to upgrade my GPU at this point, because I think it's good enough for what I need. My budget is 300 dollars USD, but it can be a little bit flexible. My pc currently has the following specs: Intel i5 8600 ASUS Prime b360m-a motherboard (LGA1151 socket) 16 gb (2x8gb) gskill ripjaws 3200mhz ddr4 ram EVGA KO Ultra RTX 2060 6gb vram The most convenient option would be to buy a cpu that fits in the same socket and is supported by the chipset I already have, but that isn't very cost or performance effective. I was originally considering an i7 8700k. I am considering switching to AMD, to the AM4 platform, since it gives me many good options that are a lot cheaper than like an i9 9900k. However, since AM5 is a thing, I don't know if it is worth upgrading to a more futureproof platform at the cost having to buy ddr5 ram and more expensive cpus. Obviously, I would have to buy a new motherboard if I wanted to switch to either AM4 or AM5 or any newer intel socket/chipset. If I were to switch to AM4, I was thinking of getting a Ryzen 5 5600x for around $150 USD and a compatible b550 motherboard for $100 - $150 USD. Any advice on which path I should take?

Hello! TL;dr: My Intel i9-14900k is running high temps in Cinebench r23 and when trying to undervolt it even just a little bit, Cinebench r23 crashes. But lowering it a little bit sadly doesn't change the temperatures that much. That's why I'm thinking not only to undervolt it, but also to underclock it and I want to hear some opinions or experiences about undervolting + underclocking. Disclaimer: I'm not very knowledgable on this topic and therefore pretty scared of doing something wrong. At the end of November, my 7 year old PC sadly died (pretty sure it was the motherboard because the PC doesn't get any power anymore beyond the motherboard). Since I didn't want to go through the trouble to buy the same motherboard (or something cheaper with the same socket or swap parts around), I wanted to buy a new PC and since it's my first pc since I started working a little, I wanted to go "all out". My PC: Intel Core i9 14900K MSI MEG CoreLiquid S360 AiO Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Master X (rev. 1.0) 2x 16 GB G.Skill Trident Z5 DDR5-6000 DIMM RAM 16GB MSI GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 1000 Watt MSI MPG A1000G 4x 120x120x25mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3x 140x140x25mm be quiet! Silent Wings Gamdias Neso P1 Big Tower Windows 11 (To the question, why I didn't get a better graphics card: I was considering the 4070, but I'm not doing anything higher than 1920x1080, so I just got the 16Gb 4060 Ti for 475€. Every other Nvidia card was priced very unreasonably). The PC was built by the Vendor; they have a service where they do that for you. My last PC, I was so incredibly scared when putting in the CPU alone that I didn't want to go through that again. Also the cable management was a mess. Of course I did hear, that the newer Intel CPU's run very hot, so I looked at a undervolting guide by JayzTwoCents as well as Panjno. They made it look really really easy, so I was very optimistic going into it. Also their whole comment section said, how they wen to like -0,120V or something and their temperatures went down by a lot. So I wanted to try just that. I got HWMonitor, Cinebench r23 and Intel XTU. I ran a one time test in Cinebench (or 1 cycle? No idea what it's called) as recommended by Panjno, had a score of around 40432, but a temperature of 96°C. I lowered the Voltage to -0,050V, started the one cycle and Cinebench INSTANTLY crashes. I don't even know what went wrong, because people were going a lot lower with their Voltage. But I did what was recommended: Going back with the Voltage by 0,010V, so I did that. Cinebench didn't crash when I reached -0,025V (did the test again later and it didn't crash at -0,015V), but the temperatures were still at 92°C. I watched JayzTwoCents video again and in the beginning, he changes 2 - 3 options in the bios for it to work. Since I'm scared of the big unknown bios (to me it is at least) I made pictures of almost everything except Fan Configuration Settings and tried searching for the options he mentioned. Since the board is in german, it was a little harder, also his board was by Asus, which made it even more hard. The weirdest thing though was, that there was no "Default" mode for the CPU. The Gigabyte PerfDrive has 5 modes or something like that and the board was in the "Optimization" mode, which makes every core run at full power (I think; I also thin it's the second highest mode?). There is only one mode, were it has unlimited power, but it says you need custom water cooling for it. Since the bios settings didn't change much, I tried to change the Gigabyte PerfDrive from Optimization to "Spec Enhance", which apparently can lower the temps as well. Upon running Cinebench I couldn't even really go down to -0,010V without the programm crashing. What I did then, since you can apparently save profiles on the Aorus Master X and the vendor did say that they did a little bit of tuning (but no idea what exactly), was to reset to its default options. My PC then sounded like a jet engine when opening a programm; it was so loud for no reason suddenly, but I could go down to -0,050V, but for some reason the temperatures were even higher at 97°C (score was 40758). And there, I'm pretty sure the vendor just did some minor fan tuning, but I found nothing in the CPU Fan section of the motherboard, so no idea where they did it. I do understand that Cinebench is the extreme case and that this is not your daily thing. So I just started playing some games. I played some League of Legends, World of Warcraft, Honkai Star Rail, Genshin Impact and Need for Speed Unbound as of right now (don't have everything else yet) and the CPU temps never went above 85°C in Unbound and ~75°C in other games. Which is good, so currently I don't have to fear running into higher temps while I try to figure things out. I want to use my PC primarily for gaming; I do enjoy playing games on emulators though. Furthermore I'm interested in A.I. image generation or stable diffusion. My old PC's CPU was really strained when generating an image with a model (~85°C) and when I imagine this CPU doing something like that, the 100°C will be reached easily. I also want to dabble into making some videos, but that's a little further down. When the rendering process goes from let's say 30 minutes to 35 or even 40, that wouldn't be that big of a deal to me. If it went to over 45, that would be troublesome for me. But I'm not really interesting in squeezing even the tiniest bit out of my PC. My goals are stability, longevity/CPU lasting a very long time and low/adequat temperatures. I know a lot of tech people hate the concept of future proofing or having something for a long time, but this is what I'm after. If it'd be possible, I'd really like it if my PC would last me another 7 years (my pc before that also lasted a long time). I was also always a big fan of intel CPU's; my friend is an AMD fan, but I saw his CPU's die very quickly, after 2 years roundabout. But I never had any problem with Intel's. Until now. So that is why I want to underclock and undervolt it. Since I have never done it and there isn't really much info about underclocking in conjunction with undervolting, I wanted to ask about a it a little in here first. I don't want to dabble with it in the bios, I want to do it in Intel XTU. Like I said, I really fear the bios. Currently, the performance core ratio is at 57x and the efficient core ratio is at 44x. With what should I go down first? I want to underclock and undervolt it, but I don't want to bottleneck my own system. Like I said, I'm not really interested in squeezing everything out of my PC, but I also don't want to make it completely bad. But then again, my first priority are good temps and undervolting so I don't get scared once I do something more processor intensive or have to swap out my CPU in 3 years. Any advice would be appreciated!

Hello I have a 5600x with pbo and auto oc (+200) active. I was wondering if there is a way to confirm that a negative curve optimizer offset is stable without performing a long test that will take a lot of time and use a lot of electricity. Or if a certain offset is stable with a short stress test, how much should I back off the offset to be certain it is stable without testing it. (Also I was wondering if messing with the curve optimizer is really worth it if I am not thermal throttling, I get somewhere between 70-75° under load.)

So some context, the laptop is an old Toshiba Satellite L755, its my father's and he only uses it for watching movies but it was really slow and gave error messages for anything, it had windows 7 so I decided to take it home and try to do something with it, I formatted the drives and put Linux Mint on it, even the installation process was slow as hell, it installed but it was a pain in the ass to even navigate, so I put Chrome OS Flex on it, which doesn't helped it was still slow, now it has a Windows 10 (cuz not the OS the problem here and atleast I know something about windows 10 so I knew where can I search for the problem) surprise it's slow aswell but not slower then the other OS's so I opened the task manager and everything seems to be fine BUT the CPU utilization is always on 100% the hdd seems fine at 20%, etc. So the problem is with the CPU utilization, what can cause it? tried virus scan, it didn't show anything, the Task Manager shows normal processes but they use a lot of CPU for some reason When I try to watch something on YouTube it's hard for the laptop to even load the site, and a 144p video is laggy, unwatchable.

I've got a new system and it was running great for the first few days however now I am experiencing very hard CPU spikes while gaming. The CPU will randomly spike to 100% and my game will freeze for 4-5 seconds. I have tried everything I can think of. Disabling all background apps and processes, uninstalling unnecessary programs, trying all sorts of rendering modes while playing and I am kind of at the end of my wits with things. I keep my task mask performance window open while playing and my CPU will spike to 100% when i freeze. AMD Adrenaline shows that my GPU/CPU are still at good temps even during the spike. Im not sure what to try next. Im thinking about trying to update the bios next but wanted to come here first. Any help would be much appreciated. Ill drop everything i know below. Thanks in advance Windows 11 AMD 7 7800X3D 4070 Ti 32GB DDR5 RAM (XMP enabled) MOBO - MSI PRO B650-VC WIFI

I have tightened the stock cpu cooler as much as I can and it still is at 84 celcisus, please help.

Im building a pc and was wondering if I should go with the i9 14900K or the KF, I know the KF doesnt have onboard graphics but is there any reason to buy one over the other and if so which should I buy?

So i have this problem. Whenever i start and pause a movie on Plex or open GPU accelerated content, the screen turns on and off. I have had this issue in Steam but i turned off GPU acceleration in Steam and the problem disappeared on Steam, but i still have the problem when i watch movies on Plex and play games. In games it appears no matter what mode i play in (windowed, borderless or fullscreen) i have tried reinstalling GPU drivers with DDU but it does not help. I found out that if i enable Gsync and disable it again in Nvidia control panel the problem usually disappears until i restart the computer. I have tried changing the power settings but they should be fine. I have: I7-13700k ASUS RTX 3070 m2-res_480p.mp4

Has anyone tried renting out their CPU or GPU (not talking crypto-mining) for AI or scientific research? Have you made any returns on it? Did you see an increase in your power bill? Do you know of any legit companies that do it? Thanks.

I just updated my BIOS to install a 5800X3D on a MSI B450 Mortar Max board and my system won't post anymore even after putting my old CPU back in. At first, I did a successful update to the latest version (7B89v2K) using M-Flash via the old BIOS menu. The system booted without issues on the new BIOS. I then swapped my old R5 3600 for a 5800X3D and also changed the stock wraith stealth cooler to a Peerless Assassin 120 SE. After turning the PC back on all fans and LEDs turned on but I got no image even after waiting a good 15 minutes. I then did another BIOS change to the version that is cited on the compatibility tab on the MSI website for the 5800X3D (7B89v2F) using a USB drive and the BIOS Flash Button, still no post. I also tried clearing the CMOS. I then swapped the new CPU and cooler back with the old configuration but I still get no post even with the old cpu now, please help !!! What I did: Updated BIOS to latest version -> successfull boot (checked bios version after) swapped 3600+wraith stealth with 5800X3D+peerless assassin 120 SE NO POST after several minutes but fans are spinning and lights turning on Checked seating of CPU cooler, laid PC on the side to avoid motherboard flex Cleared CMOS (shorting pins + removed battery) Updated BIOS to version mentioned on MSI website under CPU compatibility using BIOS flash button according to tutorial with CPU installed (linked below) Cleared CMOS Swapped back to 3600+stock cooler, still no post Cleared CMOS Changed BIOS again to the latest version which worked before, cleared CMOS again Changed BIOS to same version but this time disassembled the entire system with only the PSU connected to the motherboard -> still nothing Motherboard Manufacturer website: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B450M-MORTAR-MAX/support#bios BIOS Flash via Button+USB tutorial:

Hello, i build a new PC and have bad Frame Times (Stuttering) in all games. PC: Mainboard: GIGABYTE X670E AORUS MASTER RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 RAM 64GB (2x32GB) 6000MHz CL30 AMD Expo iCUE CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H150i RGB ELITE Liquid CPU Cooler (360) (Top exhaust) GPU: GIGABYTE AORUS GeForce RTX 4090 MASTER 24G PSU: Corsair HX1500i PSU M2-SSD: Corsair MP600 PRO XT (1TB) (OS Windows 11, 23H2) M2-SSD: Corsair MP600 PRO XT (2TB) (Games) Case: Corsair Airflow 5000D Case Fans: 4x Corsair Elite 120 (3 Front intake , 1 rear exhaust) BIOS: Version: F20a All Default except: RAM EXPO1 Profile Aktiv Onboard GPU Disabled. Headset: Corsair Virtuoso XT Headset Stand: Corsair ST100RGB Keyboard: Corsair K95 RGB Platinum Mouse: Corsair GLAIVE RGB Mousepad: Corsair MM700 RGB Monitors: Alienware AW2723DF (Primary) Alienware AW2724HF (Secondary) i play on 2k resolution. I've tried so many things (Bios, Windows, Drivers, Settings) that I can't list them here! as a Troubleshoot i put all Equipment on a Online UPS: PowerWalker VFI C LCD 3000VA Which helped a little bit. I thank everyone in advance for any help! Here some Data i collected With MSI Afterburner, CapFrameX, LatencyMon, Cinebench 2024, CPUz, GPUz, CrystalDiskMark 8 Cinebench 2024 This Was Captured while playing the second session on Halo Infinite (MSI Afterburner) MSI Afterburner Halo Infinite Frametime From 2 sessions: Rocket League Frametime From 1 session: CapFrameX: Cyberpunk 2077 Raytracing,DLSS Ultra Cyberpunk 2077 Ultra Halo Infinite Ultra RocketLeague Ultra Starfield