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Showing results for tags 'copper'.
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Hey, I wanted to buy a nikkel plate for my all copper based custom loop. Would this cause currosion to the block or dosent the gpu backplate tuch the touch the liquid? Or could anyone linke a water block that is copper and has RGB or red black coulur scheme? The block is an el-vektor rtx 2080. The color scheme is strictly based around Asus rog hero design. (sorry for my English I am Norwegian)
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Will a 420mm Thick Radiator Cool This?
Skilled Loaf posted a topic in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling
Will a thick 420mm radiator cool an i7-8700k at stock speeds and dual gtx 1070. When I say thick radiator I mean a radiator thicker than Thanos. Here is the radiator if you must know -https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAEAP5YM4072&ignorebbr=1&source=region&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-Alphacool-_-DIY+Cooling-_-9SIAEAP5YM4072&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o1vfjSe5HzfVd3U7LuIfCJ5ciHYOSDQVD7ni46LpdfDPyT7E9dst5caAjZ3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds- 5 replies
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- radiator
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Ok, although the title may be confusing, I want to know if I could replace a fluid gaming kit slowly until its fully copper but I don't know the specifics of it. I know AIOs mix metals and that I can add ethylene glycol to slow galvanic corrosion but I don't know what the ratio of water to ethylene glycol would be. Is there a way I could replace the parts from an EK A240 that are aluminum (Pump, Rad, Block, Fittings) with copper while running a ratio of water and ethylene glycol. I forget if the copper, aluminum or both corrodes in a mix metal setup so if you could say that too that'd be helpful. My current plan would be Buy A240 -> Replace 4 parts over 18 months, while adding ethylene glycol -> Have a full copper loop and upgrade that. Thanks in advance.
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Hi, this might be a dumb question, and I'm not sure if this is the right spot for it, but I have a Gigabyte Aorus 1080 graphics card and I want to cover it with a plastic backplate to match my PC better. However, there is a copper piece on it and I wasn't sure if it would be safe to cover it up as it looks like it does some sort of cooling. There an image attached of the GPU. The backplate I have is made of 2 layers of perspex plastic.
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I want to make a closed lool cooling system made out of custom machined pure copper blocks and petg pipes... Now I need a all Plastic pump (mainly the parts where the coolant comes in contact should be teflon ... Or any thermostable plastic) and a copper radiator... First question are all copper radiators even available? And if there is a pump that meets my specifications please give me the link to the product... Thanks in advance...
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gpu Copper wire sticking out of GPU, should I be concerned?
Avensol posted a topic in Graphics Cards
Might seem like a silly question, but here goes: Earlier today I opened up my PC to swap out my old PSU for a higher wattage, fully modular one, and of course to do this I had to temporarily take out my GPU. However upon doing this, I noticed that there was a copper (I think) wire sticking out from one of the coils on the GPU. Note that my PC has not undergone any rough treatment or movement since I last opened it up, so this must have somehow spontaneously happened while the computer was running. I have also never run into any errors relating to the GPU, despite my computer having obviously been running for a supposedly long time with this wire sticking out. Anyway fast forward to now, the power supply swap went off without a hitch and my PC is up and running again. I tried running Destiny 2 and overclocking my GPU, and nothing bad has happened (yet). But I thought it'd still be a good idea to ask here. Here are some photos for reference. It's a GTX 1060 STRIX for anybody wondering: -
So I was inspired to build a custom water loop, I wanted it to combine what I do for work with what I do for fun and this what I came up with. ive seen hardline copper runs before, but I wanted to use rigid pipe not soft tubing and I wanted an industrial look. I don’t see condensation occurring, the case is basically open to the surrounding air, and I don’t see what purpose selling acidic coolant would serve. i had a good time putting this together, maybe there’s something I overlooked or didn’t consider. either way any feedback would be appreciated.
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Ok so I decided not to hack a loop and Frankenstein something together and just go with a childhood dream. I want to build a copper based loop but with that being said I do not want to purchase everything all at once. It will be a project of mine because of financial to get done over a 2 to 4 month period. I am looking for advice mostly on different companies or brands to go with and which parts would benefit me better. My system specs are as follows. Corsair Graphite Series 780T Full Tower 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 3200Mhz DDR4 Ram Asus X99 Pro USB 3.1 LGA 2011-v3 Intel I7 6950X Toughpower 1,200W PSU fully modular Intel 750 series PCIe NVME 1.2TB and 800GB. SLI GTX 970s ' Never upgraded cause market sky rocketed ' I will be upgrading to a 1070 or something in 2000 series. Using a deepcool storm captain 120mm AIO to hold me over after my Corsair H115I 240mm just died. I want to use a dual or triple rad loop but Im fine with getting the res, pump and blocks first and tubing, fittings and rads at a later time. I have to buy portions of this every month untik I have a full loop to build which I will install into my system at a later date but I would appreciate ideas now. Also my PC is white, the case, mobo and current aio and all of my fans are. I use RGB LED lighting with 32 colors and a controller to change it if I need or want to rather. I appreciate all of the help anyone gives me. Thank you in advance for taking your time! I believe I will be going with a 360MM, 240MM and 120MM rad setup but might go with 360MM and 2 240MMs. XSPC is really the only company I know of as someone suggested it in another thread I made about fixing the pump that died. So I am good with every single persons suggestions, ideas or concerns! Throw it at me barney style!
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Bula from Fiji Islands! World Renown Olympic Gold medalists in 7s Rugby!! And our Famous Fiji Water! I was inspired by Linus, and the other guys (don't want to post their channels as it might be in conflict with Linus so lets just say Jay and Bit) Youtube channels. As in the Pacific Islands we are way behind in the tech industry. I love tech and thanks to you guys I have been able to build this one of a kind PC (with the best parts I can get here on the Island) This build consists of gutting out two desktops and a laptop, and using parts for this build since PC parts are ridiculously expensive here in Fiji Islands and not to mention our very weak currency. I got the rigs when the company I worked for closed down and the owner gave me all the office equipment. Once I have enough moolah ($) to upgrade parts I will then do so (unless some good samaritan gifts me something ). The Beauty of this build is the Custom Case. I have modified an old Copper Port/Starboard Light that was used in the old days on ships. These are vintage items, I'm talking about 100 year old lamps. Mines an Authentic one owned by my father who was a sailor who got his off his ships captain, bless his soul. The Build (Which Is still in Progress physically yet complete imaginatively) 1st Step I took was to plan the layout and size up everything to fit in this case. I had to go with a Small Form Factor build as very little space was available for everything. However in the end this build will turn out great (Once I buy a SSD and the GPU it will be complete) My planning was drawn up on a whiteboard (perfect for erasing and re drawing) I also checked the compatibility of all the parts using pcpartpicker. Its amazing the things people have made free on the internet! God bless their souls! 2nd step was the cutting of the back plate using a grinder and cutting disk, (Using a dremmel would have been more cleaner than grinder and cutting disk, however the tools I had to work with were what I could find). I installed hinges and locking mechanism for easy access to internals for upgrading in future and maintenance. To get proper measurements and mounting points I photocopied to scale the mother board, HDD, etc and drilled the marked holes. Everything aligned perfectly. I will have the 2x80mm fans from the 2 gutted desktops mounted at the bottom and a large fan from a cooler master laptop stand fan that fits perfectly on the case top opening. The Power supply mounts at the bottom, HDD between the Glass slots along with cable management. Motherboard on back plate. I ordered the hinges and edge guard for lining the back plate I had cut out as grinder cutting disk took out a good chunk of metal leaving a big space. Got it off aliexpress. 3rd step was installing all the parts and cable management. This was the easiest part as I had all the videos for this at my disposal. I got a lot of stuff off aliexpress which were mind glowingly cheap (Cable ties the velcro type, motherboard risers and screws, the CPU cooler, its a Segotop model, the thermal paste and some thermal pads) 4th step Installing OS and Drivers. I have the windows 7 Pro OEM from the two desktops I gutted. Wondering if I can use it to get Windows 10. Will find out once I get the SSD and GPU. Tools Star Screw Driver, Engineer Chalk (marking), Grinder with thin cutting Disk, Drill and drill bit, Centre Punch (Marking and drill guid) File (for filing off rough edges and size), Hammer (for driving centre punch) and finally Imagination the most important tool that birthed this build. I am saving up to get a good Graphics card, some decent RAM and an SSD and CPU to complete it. I plan in the future to upgrade to a better motherboard and liquid cooling. I will want to use copper tubing to compliment the case. The Glass is a special magnified glass and it really shows off the internals of the build. The PC Gods also made cable management a breeze with the way the Case was originally built. Parts List PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i3-6100 3.7 GHz Dual-Core OEM/Tray Processor Purchased For $0.00 CPU Cooler Cooler Master - MasterAir MA410P 66.7 CFM CPU Cooler Purchased For $0.00 Motherboard Asus - H110M-A D3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Purchased For $0.00 Memory ADATA - 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR3-1333 Memory Purchased For $0.00 Storage Kingston - A400 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $70.99 @ Newegg Storage Seagate - Momentus 1 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Purchased For $0.00 Storage Seagate - Momentus 1 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Purchased For $0.00 Video Card Zotac - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB Mini Video Card $409.99 @ B&H Power Supply Enermax - 500 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply Purchased For $0.00 Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $124.79 @ OutletPC Case Fan Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80mm Fan Purchased For $0.00 Case Fan Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80mm Fan Purchased For $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $615.77 Mail-in rebates -$10.00 Total $605.77 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-17 04:40 EST-0500 Will upload pics once everything is coming along!
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I'm intending to get a jumpstart on a new itx PC build, this time with the intent of perhaps fitting it inside a Skyreach S4 Mini. I was looking into some low-profile solutions with fitting a CPU cooler, and I've concluded that the Cryorig C7 Cu's copper heatsink paired with a Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM seems like the best fit (since Noctua doesn't seem to have any low-profile copper solutions of their own). My question now is how to attain those special mounting clips that come with Noctua's heatsinks...without buying the heatsinks themselves. I've contacted Noctua, but they haven't come to me with an answer yet. I wasn't sure where I could attain these clips so I can pull off something like this gentleman from the SFF forums (Credit to Hudzzy). Also buying two separate cooling solutions to combine them doesn't seem as cost efficient, so I was wondering if Zalman or any other manufacturer has a similar idea of having an all-copper low profil cooling solution out there.
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Hello im a water cooling newbie starting to build his first loop i currently have full copper radiator which i am planning to use and i was wondering if i can use a nickel waterblock on my gpu or the metals would interfere? I couldnt find a copper waterblock for my gpu
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Hi guys Question 1: If u have an AIO cooler with a 360rad and a custom loop with a 360rad, is it the fact that the Custom Loop is using copper in the rad or the fact that the custom-pump moves the water faster? (Jayz2cents made a vid claiming that pumpspeed dont matter) (i know that its kinda both but if you needed to pick 1...? Qustion 2: lets say i wanna make an custom loop out of AIOs... (3) Should i replace all the aliminuim rads and go for all copper? (the CPUblock-PUMP combo has copper) thanks guys
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I recently cracked out my 3 years old Wraith Spire that came with my 1600. I am planning to use it on a computer I'm about to build. I've never used it so it still had the pre-applied thermal compound on it, though the compound did turned yellow. I wiped it off with some ethanol, but found blemishes on the copper contact. The surface still feels very smooth. My first guess is that the thermal compound corroded the copper. Will this affect its cooling ability much?
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Hey everyone, been about 7 years away from the forums, I'm 22 now, and glad to be back in the LTT community. I am starting to source parts for a very custom rig, and have ordered two GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2 cards to run in SLI on this system. I have some experience with liquid cooling, and I'm looking for suggestions on glass piping, compression seals, radiators, pumps, etc. I understand this will be quite a project but I am excited to document the building process and hopefully remember to share it here with you all. Thus far, I have 8GB (2x4) DDR3 1866 RAM (beautiful VIPER sticks that are very difficult to find), an i5 4690K CPU, and the 2 GPU's. Any and all info on finding the proper parts is appreciated! Cheers.
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I´ve heard you should either only use copper or only use aluminium for your custom water cooling loop. Why the hell, in this case, are there no copper pump+reservoir combos availible? Even the EK Waterblocks webpage gives me an aluminium pump+reservoir combo. Does the pump not affect the water? Sorry if the question turns out to be stupid - LiquidNitrogen BTW can I use brass fittings for an all-copper loop?
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Is a full copper heatsink a lot better than a regular one ?
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I was looking on internet for THE best thermal paste none conductive an none liquid metal that is not corroding or degrading at all any type of material (aluminium, copper, nickel..) and I found a particular information on one of my listed thermal paste. The Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste is apparently (I'm not confirming this information, since a only dude talked about that and was really evasive on the subject) degrading a material used for heat spreader as eg: aluminium I want to know if it's true or not.. If incorrect I want to know which material is degrading over a long term of time with the Kryonaut (When I say degrading, I mean DESTROY the material as liquid gallium on aluminum, I don't care about scratching surface or decoloration, I want to know if it will survive long term use without killing the PC) (I am not debating about which thermal paste is the best, it's not the goal of the topic) I know that I am VERY specific, but it is really important that I know if it does kill a specific material.. THANKS YOU FOR ANSWERING ME.
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- kryonaut
- thermal paste
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Hello everyone! Yesterday I found out that there are 4 copper wires running from the kitchen (where my router is) to my bedroom that are currently unused and part of the telephone infrastructure in my house. So, I wanted to see how much data I could push through those 4 wires and if it would be better than investing in an AC Wireless solution. Currently, I've got a gigabit router hooked up to a homemade FreeNAS from some older Gigabit compatible hardware. That network works fine, and with a USB 3.0 Adapter to Ethernet I can transfer files at upwards of 100MB/s to my Surface Pro 4, the device I plan to be using. Originally, I thought of using 2 pair Ethernet, which I actually tried and it works, so I'll go ahead today and buy an Ethernet Port to hook this up to the wall. However, since this is 2 pair Ethernet with only 4 wires, I'm limited to 100mbps, which is slower than my current WiFi for file transfer. Another idea I've had was to use these wires as USB wires. This is a bit more complicated than it sounds. USB 2.0 should work fine, but I am a bit over the distance limit. This should give me about 30mb/s transfer speeds, which is certainly an improvement. My Surface Pro 4 only supports up to 867mbps WiFi, so this might actually be faster than investing in a better WiFi solution. USB 3.0 is where stuff gets interesting. According to some research, I can ditch the USB 2.0 part of the connector entirely, since I can provide power on one end and the new USB 3.0 wires are enough to get the connection to work as intended on USB 3.0 devices. However, USB 3.0 has 5 wires. I've been trying to figure out what the middle wire does and see if that could be avoided on one end. On Wikipedia, it's listed as GND_SIGNAL, but I can't fully understand how it's used. Explanations would be much appreciated! Is there any other way I could achieve faster internet through those 4 wires? Any standards that I missed? It's a real shame that Ethernet only goes from 100 to 1000 mbits, it would be great if we could use two pairs to get 500mbits. I'm open to any suggestions and criticism! Thanks in advance, Chris.
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I know that copper is a better heat transporter but how big will this impact performance ? Will there be a big difference between a copper and aluminium water block?
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Hello, everyone, I'm looking up parts for liquid cooling and galvanic corrosion comes up a lot. I understand what it is, but in the video "Fully RGB Water Cooling..." the fittings they use are copper based and the monoblock from strix - as far as I have found - only comes in nickel. Wouldn't that induce galvanic corrosion? I ask because that monoblock looks sexy as all hell and I would like to use those fittings because they look sexy as hell as well. Any help would be very much appreciated.
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Hello there Random Stranger, Welcome to my world, well.. now that I got that out of my system, welcome to my new project. My father wanted a new PC and I, as the techsavy guy in our family, offered to build him one. And as a special treat...decided to build him a custom case...just because i can. Because i know that my father is a little bit old fashioned i decided to build him a retro themed case. Inspiration was drawn from old radios and tv's. The two main materials would be copper and wood, dark wood since wood tends to darken over time. and it looks nice with copper. The next premise was: it should be located on the desk to make it easily accesible...wich ties in with the first: should look nice since it had to be placed on the desk. further requirements: DVD Drive (so annoying) Further Hardwware isnt much to mention since he gave me a pretty tight budget... so i went with a Pentium G4600 2C/4T MSI B250I Pro 8 GB DDR4 Value RAM (holy fuck that shit got expensive) some old Nvidia GT i still had (thanks to crypto that went through the roof right at the start of this build) bequiet PSU some DVD drive so i got to work and started to visualise what i had in mind. Here is a first peek using SketchUp (my fathers work area) where its black there should be copper... Those "renderings" convinced my father and i went to work. Sadly there aren't many pictures as some got lost...don't know why though after a couple of router passes i had all the 45 degree angles kinda right... that was one pain in the back to do those...especially with an unprecise routerbit. yeah.,...i made that picture with my smartphone instead of the DSLR...cant believe i did that test fitting and adjustments and yeah...its not copper...as it turns out i was too ambitious about that...couldn't do it myself as i dont have neither the tools nor the skills to do so. But i found a company which specializes in cutting sheet metal according to CAD drawings (even one at a time). Guess you need a little bit of luck too. Now i have just to paint that. Aaaand TADAAAAAA!!!!! This looks way nicer than i feared it might look. As you might have noticed...the wood is actually playwood...for the same reason the copper is not really copper. Sadly i dont have a CNC so i had to outsource the wood cutting as well. At least the openings i cut myself. (pretty lousy if one might notice) But as nobody will ever see the inside or the backside....since it will be on my fathers desk for the next 5 years.... Don't care Thats it for now. Thanks for reading along.
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- custom case
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Hi all, A few years back I saw a mod for car audio where they used solid copper or copper pipes to connect the amp to the subwoofer. For some reason this idea just came back to me now, and I think it would look sick as a mod for a modular power supply. My idea is to use 18/16 AWG solid copper wire instead of the stock 24-pin connector from power supply to motherboard since it will hold its shape and do 90 degree bends in it where appropriate. In order to keep the wires separated as there would not be insulation on them (maybe do a rubber paint on them to insulate them) I will be using a typical cable comb that is used to keep the usual wires neat. I can't for the life of me find any mod like this on Google, and was wondering if any of you guys have. If not, any advice or tips on how I could accomplish this would be awesome! Thanks!!
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Hi! I'm a bit stuck on my water cooling loop and since it's my first one I'm having some troubles solving the question: Which pump and res should I use? I really want a pump/res combo so I was planing on using this pump/res EK-XRES 100 REVO D5 PWM Then I was planing on changing the res tube to a 250(204mm) The problem is that the rest of my build is copper components and as far as I can see, this is aluminium. Do you guys have any suggestion for me? Only requirements, good, resonable quite pump, 200+(preferably 250) res, and 60 mm diameter res Thanks alot for all the help! Kind regards Simon
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This is my second Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro WiFi from Amazon. The first one had a few bent fan headers, so I exchanged it for a new one. This time I managed to damage it all by myself! While installing a defective ASUS RTX 2080 graphics card I picked up on eBay, I didn't immediately realize that the I/O shield was badly bent and contorted so it was sharp, and it scratched the PCB and the cover of the Audio driver thing (idk what it's called, pictured below). One of the scratches exposed a sliver of copper on the board's surface. Does it look safe to boot? Is this cause for serious concern? All my parts are brand new besides the graphics card which caused this issue, and of course I'll be returning that. I cannot exchange the board again. I would have to get a full refund now and I would prefer to keep the board because I got it on sale for a good price and I really like it.