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I've just recently moved countries, and for that reason I had to take down my PC. During the process, I had noticed some cracks on the copper surface. [Corsair H100i RGB Platium SE] These cracks seem to appear around here and there, and I know its normal and sometimes harmless. However, I have never seen cracks this extensive around the screws. Should I be concerned about the performance and safety of my cooler, or is it safe to continue using it? Any suggestions on how to address this issue would be greatly appreciated. Pictures bellow, Thanks.

SORRY ABOUT THE TITLE So today I was repairing a USB drive when I realised this! I'm really stranged out about this. I got my multi meter out and tried to see if it was some sort of metal... Of course I couldn't really tell as copper is very low reactive metal. Do you think this could be part of the circuit board? I need geniuses please!

This is not selling for/in my country: I will make it myself. I'm thinking about locally laser-cutting a copper sheet/block. 1mm thick, between vram and heatsink, or should I get a thicker block? For that, I'll need to make and give a CAD file to the local service provider. This is the best info I've found so far. Mine's an Asus 3070ti TUF, haven't found on Tech Power Up yet, but seems to be the same as in the above video. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/3.html https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/images/front_full.jpg This above is the closest I've found from the Asus TUF, seems to be the same orientation, proportion, 0-2-3-3 vram chip pattern. The size and distance from GPU die to vram chips must be the same. Picture seems a bit warped by lens, but seems fine for drawing the CAD on top of. I just need dimensions of the core die or vram chips outter shell, something like that, to take as reference. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-gaming-oc/3.html If anyone already has a CAD file, or knows a link, somewhere I can get the data I need, PLEASE share. When I install mine, if it works, I'll give the cad file in here for free so that anyone (INDIVIDUAL) can just laser cut this easy poop fix by him/her self, and be done with.

CONTEXT: So, moving out of my mums - she still needs a PC, these were the beginnings of the Coppaq. I'd made a few PCs before. But I'd never got the chance to go mad and do all the dumb stuff I've always wanted, namely: - passive cooling - retro (CRT oc, etc.) - SSHDs in RAID (yeah bad idea lol) Right (love you Trout), so, here goes it. As for rules, eBay only, no budget, and it has to run CSGO at 800x600. I spent like £600 on this garbage. SPECS: - first i3 4160T, second i5 4570T, lastly Pentium G3258 delided at 4.2ghz under a NoFan cr80-eh - 8gb of low profile black ram with copper heatsinks added - RX460 4GB on Phanteks vertical gpu mount liquid metal-ed (because why not) under a Zalman zf100 with the fan ripped off - Firstly a MSI H81M-E33 but messed up my bios (by not resetting b4 flashing) so won't OC anymore, so secondly I upgraded to Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H (ooh more orange) 3D printed backplate coming from Spain. - Yesico (Yes, that's a brand) 420w fully passive non-modular partially sleeved PSU (FL-420ATX), 20 to 24 pin mobo adapter and 4pin cpu in an 8pin works fine - Coolermaster Wavemaster (I dremelled the PCIs off uwotm8) - NZXT Hue set to CPU temp in case and marquee behind the front panel - Currently 4x SSHDs in Win10 parity + 1 for disk (all short stroked) soon to be 6x Seagate 500/8gb SSHDs, 5x in hardware raid because when it fills up it's balls speed - AKASA Ultraquiet clear/amber-clear fans (off) soon to be on aircraft switches on a front panel for summer PERIPHERALS: - Compaq 7500 CRT (OC'd to a whopping 88hz, will do 120 for a few minutes eh? EH?) - Compaq keyboard & mouse (gonna try to install roccat internals) - Time speakers are actually fantastic - Logitech ball webcam - Philips SHP2500s w/ modmic GALLERY:

I want to try a lot of different experiments on computers and laptops and this one popped into my mind. Now there are some people out there who have aluminum heatsinks and everyone should know copper is way thermally conductive than aluminum. Now I thought of getting a thin copper sheet (probably about 0.3mm) and sticking it in between a CPU and aluminum heatsink and adding thermal paste in between them both. But still the aluminum would only pick up heat the same as if it were on the CPU. I did some more research and found some copper based gasket sealant. Then I had the idea of merging the copper sheet to the heatsink with the sealant instead of using thermal paste. So I'm here asking for peoples opinion on if they think this would work. I put a little diagram below on how it is supposed to go

Cooling and overheating are some of my biggest bothers when it comes to laptops so when I was looking up Arctic MX-5 reviews on Youtube, I accidentally happened upon a video where the user modified his laptops CPU cooler by gluing copper wires. So I looked up CPU cooler modding and found out about gluing additional copper pipes, which was proven to work. So now I'm looking for the best adhesive to glue the pipes together. Should I actually look for a thermal glue or would thermal paste do the trick? I ask that because I am looking up a list of the best thermal GLUE which also includes thermal PASTE - so does it also double as adhesive? 10 Best Thermal Glue Thanks.

Hey all, I just got this B-250 in the mail and it said it was used. Upon further inspection I saw that there was a good amount of exposed copper and traces exposed. Should this be able to work? I am getting the PSU this week and will try to test it the following. Here are some of the pictures.

hello everyone =) has anyone found out what type of waterblock the xtreme waterforce 3090 has, if it's copper, brass or aluminum? i'm referring to the xtreme waterforce without the AIO. Correct me if i'm wrong, please: i have a copper rad. having a brass plated block or a copper block, is ok for a copper loop right? it's just if other metal is aluminum is the problem. is my understanding correct? thanks in advanced! chris

I know that mixing metals in a custom loop is bad, but will the EK quantum velocity (nickel) work with the Corsair Hydro X 240mm white rad(copper) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-velocity-amd-nickel-plexi?___store=default https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/CORSAIR-White-PC-Build/XR5-White/p/CX-9030007-WW Thank you for any help!

Hello im a water cooling newbie starting to build his first loop i currently have full copper radiator which i am planning to use and i was wondering if i can use a nickel waterblock on my gpu or the metals would interfere? I couldnt find a copper waterblock for my gpu

Hey everyone, been about 7 years away from the forums, I'm 22 now, and glad to be back in the LTT community. I am starting to source parts for a very custom rig, and have ordered two GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2 cards to run in SLI on this system. I have some experience with liquid cooling, and I'm looking for suggestions on glass piping, compression seals, radiators, pumps, etc. I understand this will be quite a project but I am excited to document the building process and hopefully remember to share it here with you all. Thus far, I have 8GB (2x4) DDR3 1866 RAM (beautiful VIPER sticks that are very difficult to find), an i5 4690K CPU, and the 2 GPU's. Any and all info on finding the proper parts is appreciated! Cheers.

Hi guys Question 1: If u have an AIO cooler with a 360rad and a custom loop with a 360rad, is it the fact that the Custom Loop is using copper in the rad or the fact that the custom-pump moves the water faster? (Jayz2cents made a vid claiming that pumpspeed dont matter) (i know that its kinda both but if you needed to pick 1...? Qustion 2: lets say i wanna make an custom loop out of AIOs... (3) Should i replace all the aliminuim rads and go for all copper? (the CPUblock-PUMP combo has copper) thanks guys

I recently cracked out my 3 years old Wraith Spire that came with my 1600. I am planning to use it on a computer I'm about to build. I've never used it so it still had the pre-applied thermal compound on it, though the compound did turned yellow. I wiped it off with some ethanol, but found blemishes on the copper contact. The surface still feels very smooth. My first guess is that the thermal compound corroded the copper. Will this affect its cooling ability much?

I Just Had A Quick Question Guys. I Have A Beats Laptop With A Dead Heatsink And Ordered One From Ebay. My Question Is How Well Does Stainless Conduct Heat And Would This Work?

So I was inspired to build a custom water loop, I wanted it to combine what I do for work with what I do for fun and this what I came up with. ive seen hardline copper runs before, but I wanted to use rigid pipe not soft tubing and I wanted an industrial look. I don’t see condensation occurring, the case is basically open to the surrounding air, and I don’t see what purpose selling acidic coolant would serve. i had a good time putting this together, maybe there’s something I overlooked or didn’t consider. either way any feedback would be appreciated.

Hello ! I would like to know if this kind of damage would make this cpu cooler unusable . It was damaged in shipping and i am afraid after instaling it not to damage some other more expensive components . Are there gases or liquids in the heat pipes? Or a mixture of both as i read a bit today about air coolers . Do any of you know how to remedy this ? Cheers !

Hey, I wanted to buy a nikkel plate for my all copper based custom loop. Would this cause currosion to the block or dosent the gpu backplate tuch the touch the liquid? Or could anyone linke a water block that is copper and has RGB or red black coulur scheme? The block is an el-vektor rtx 2080.  The color scheme is strictly based around Asus rog hero design. (sorry for my English I am Norwegian)

Will a thick 420mm radiator cool an i7-8700k at stock speeds and dual gtx 1070. When I say thick radiator I mean a radiator thicker than Thanos. Here is the radiator if you must know -https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAEAP5YM4072&ignorebbr=1&source=region&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-Alphacool-_-DIY+Cooling-_-9SIAEAP5YM4072&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o1vfjSe5HzfVd3U7LuIfCJ5ciHYOSDQVD7ni46LpdfDPyT7E9dst5caAjZ3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Ok, although the title may be confusing, I want to know if I could replace a fluid gaming kit slowly until its fully copper but I don't know the specifics of it. I know AIOs mix metals and that I can add ethylene glycol to slow galvanic corrosion but I don't know what the ratio of water to ethylene glycol would be. Is there a way I could replace the parts from an EK A240 that are aluminum (Pump, Rad, Block, Fittings) with copper while running a ratio of water and ethylene glycol. I forget if the copper, aluminum or both corrodes in a mix metal setup so if you could say that too that'd be helpful. My current plan would be Buy A240 -> Replace 4 parts over 18 months, while adding ethylene glycol -> Have a full copper loop and upgrade that. Thanks in advance.

Hi, this might be a dumb question, and I'm not sure if this is the right spot for it, but I have a Gigabyte Aorus 1080 graphics card and I want to cover it with a plastic backplate to match my PC better. However, there is a copper piece on it and I wasn't sure if it would be safe to cover it up as it looks like it does some sort of cooling. There an image attached of the GPU. The backplate I have is made of 2 layers of perspex plastic.

This is my second Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro WiFi from Amazon. The first one had a few bent fan headers, so I exchanged it for a new one. This time I managed to damage it all by myself! While installing a defective ASUS RTX 2080 graphics card I picked up on eBay, I didn't immediately realize that the I/O shield was badly bent and contorted so it was sharp, and it scratched the PCB and the cover of the Audio driver thing (idk what it's called, pictured below). One of the scratches exposed a sliver of copper on the board's surface. Does it look safe to boot? Is this cause for serious concern? All my parts are brand new besides the graphics card which caused this issue, and of course I'll be returning that. I cannot exchange the board again. I would have to get a full refund now and I would prefer to keep the board because I got it on sale for a good price and I really like it.

Might seem like a silly question, but here goes: Earlier today I opened up my PC to swap out my old PSU for a higher wattage, fully modular one, and of course to do this I had to temporarily take out my GPU. However upon doing this, I noticed that there was a copper (I think) wire sticking out from one of the coils on the GPU. Note that my PC has not undergone any rough treatment or movement since I last opened it up, so this must have somehow spontaneously happened while the computer was running. I have also never run into any errors relating to the GPU, despite my computer having obviously been running for a supposedly long time with this wire sticking out. Anyway fast forward to now, the power supply swap went off without a hitch and my PC is up and running again. I tried running Destiny 2 and overclocking my GPU, and nothing bad has happened (yet). But I thought it'd still be a good idea to ask here. Here are some photos for reference. It's a GTX 1060 STRIX for anybody wondering:

I want to make a closed lool cooling system made out of custom machined pure copper blocks and petg pipes... Now I need a all Plastic pump (mainly the parts where the coolant comes in contact should be teflon ... Or any thermostable plastic) and a copper radiator... First question are all copper radiators even available? And if there is a pump that meets my specifications please give me the link to the product... Thanks in advance...

Bula from Fiji Islands! World Renown Olympic Gold medalists in 7s Rugby!! And our Famous Fiji Water! I was inspired by Linus, and the other guys (don't want to post their channels as it might be in conflict with Linus so lets just say Jay and Bit) Youtube channels. As in the Pacific Islands we are way behind in the tech industry. I love tech and thanks to you guys I have been able to build this one of a kind PC (with the best parts I can get here on the Island) This build consists of gutting out two desktops and a laptop, and using parts for this build since PC parts are ridiculously expensive here in Fiji Islands and not to mention our very weak currency. I got the rigs when the company I worked for closed down and the owner gave me all the office equipment. Once I have enough moolah ($) to upgrade parts I will then do so (unless some good samaritan gifts me something ). The Beauty of this build is the Custom Case. I have modified an old Copper Port/Starboard Light that was used in the old days on ships. These are vintage items, I'm talking about 100 year old lamps. Mines an Authentic one owned by my father who was a sailor who got his off his ships captain, bless his soul. The Build (Which Is still in Progress physically yet complete imaginatively) 1st Step I took was to plan the layout and size up everything to fit in this case. I had to go with a Small Form Factor build as very little space was available for everything. However in the end this build will turn out great (Once I buy a SSD and the GPU it will be complete) My planning was drawn up on a whiteboard (perfect for erasing and re drawing) I also checked the compatibility of all the parts using pcpartpicker. Its amazing the things people have made free on the internet! God bless their souls! 2nd step was the cutting of the back plate using a grinder and cutting disk, (Using a dremmel would have been more cleaner than grinder and cutting disk, however the tools I had to work with were what I could find). I installed hinges and locking mechanism for easy access to internals for upgrading in future and maintenance. To get proper measurements and mounting points I photocopied to scale the mother board, HDD, etc and drilled the marked holes. Everything aligned perfectly. I will have the 2x80mm fans from the 2 gutted desktops mounted at the bottom and a large fan from a cooler master laptop stand fan that fits perfectly on the case top opening. The Power supply mounts at the bottom, HDD between the Glass slots along with cable management. Motherboard on back plate. I ordered the hinges and edge guard for lining the back plate I had cut out as grinder cutting disk took out a good chunk of metal leaving a big space. Got it off aliexpress. 3rd step was installing all the parts and cable management. This was the easiest part as I had all the videos for this at my disposal. I got a lot of stuff off aliexpress which were mind glowingly cheap (Cable ties the velcro type, motherboard risers and screws, the CPU cooler, its a Segotop model, the thermal paste and some thermal pads) 4th step Installing OS and Drivers. I have the windows 7 Pro OEM from the two desktops I gutted. Wondering if I can use it to get Windows 10. Will find out once I get the SSD and GPU. Tools Star Screw Driver, Engineer Chalk (marking), Grinder with thin cutting Disk, Drill and drill bit, Centre Punch (Marking and drill guid) File (for filing off rough edges and size), Hammer (for driving centre punch) and finally Imagination the most important tool that birthed this build. I am saving up to get a good Graphics card, some decent RAM and an SSD and CPU to complete it. I plan in the future to upgrade to a better motherboard and liquid cooling. I will want to use copper tubing to compliment the case. The Glass is a special magnified glass and it really shows off the internals of the build. The PC Gods also made cable management a breeze with the way the Case was originally built. Parts List PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i3-6100 3.7 GHz Dual-Core OEM/Tray Processor Purchased For $0.00 CPU Cooler Cooler Master - MasterAir MA410P 66.7 CFM CPU Cooler Purchased For $0.00 Motherboard Asus - H110M-A D3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Purchased For $0.00 Memory ADATA - 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR3-1333 Memory Purchased For $0.00 Storage Kingston - A400 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $70.99 @ Newegg Storage Seagate - Momentus 1 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Purchased For $0.00 Storage Seagate - Momentus 1 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Purchased For $0.00 Video Card Zotac - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB Mini Video Card $409.99 @ B&H Power Supply Enermax - 500 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply Purchased For $0.00 Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $124.79 @ OutletPC Case Fan Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80mm Fan Purchased For $0.00 Case Fan Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80mm Fan Purchased For $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $615.77 Mail-in rebates -$10.00 Total $605.77 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-17 04:40 EST-0500 Will upload pics once everything is coming along!

Ok so I decided not to hack a loop and Frankenstein something together and just go with a childhood dream. I want to build a copper based loop but with that being said I do not want to purchase everything all at once. It will be a project of mine because of financial to get done over a 2 to 4 month period. I am looking for advice mostly on different companies or brands to go with and which parts would benefit me better. My system specs are as follows. Corsair Graphite Series 780T Full Tower 64GB G.Skill Ripjaws 3200Mhz DDR4 Ram Asus X99 Pro USB 3.1 LGA 2011-v3 Intel I7 6950X Toughpower 1,200W PSU fully modular Intel 750 series PCIe NVME 1.2TB and 800GB. SLI GTX 970s ' Never upgraded cause market sky rocketed ' I will be upgrading to a 1070 or something in 2000 series. Using a deepcool storm captain 120mm AIO to hold me over after my Corsair H115I 240mm just died. I want to use a dual or triple rad loop but Im fine with getting the res, pump and blocks first and tubing, fittings and rads at a later time. I have to buy portions of this every month untik I have a full loop to build which I will install into my system at a later date but I would appreciate ideas now. Also my PC is white, the case, mobo and current aio and all of my fans are. I use RGB LED lighting with 32 colors and a controller to change it if I need or want to rather. I appreciate all of the help anyone gives me. Thank you in advance for taking your time! I believe I will be going with a 360MM, 240MM and 120MM rad setup but might go with 360MM and 2 240MMs. XSPC is really the only company I know of as someone suggested it in another thread I made about fixing the pump that died. So I am good with every single persons suggestions, ideas or concerns! Throw it at me barney style!