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Showing results for tags 'cooling'.
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I have a lenovo ideapad 3 for 2 years and i am going to replace the thermal compound in it because it has been running a little bit hot. It has a core i5-10210U cpu and mx130 gpu. I play nfs most wanted 2012 occasionally and use it for watching movies and doing school projects. I have considered using the honeywell ptm7950 but it is not available in my counter and is too expensive. So, what would be a good thermal compound for my laptop? -
I'm looking at PCs and trying to decided with cooler to get. My use cases will be gaming as well as cad, video editing, and the occasional overnight render. I know the 13700k runs hot, and I don't want to pay for only to learn performance on the table, even with undervolting. Will a 280mm AIO be enough, or do I just need to bite the bullet and go 360mm?
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I have a temp sensor on my reservoir that's connected to the thermal sensor header on my motherboard. Is there a way to show that graph in MSI Afterburner monitoring? I usually have it open to show me all the stuff, and I have tried activating all the plugins, but non of them lets me show it. I can find it in HWInfo64, and I use "Fan Control" to tune my fans based on the water temp. My motherboard is a Asus ROG Strix B550-f -
So Im in the process of building a new PC, I enjoy enthusiast-tier air cooling and tend to upgrade my case fans and heatsink fans and have a large case with plenty of space. Will be installing on to an AM5 Build. Its just been a while and Im not sure what is out there these days. I was wondering why nobody seems to buy the "Thermalright Frost Commander 140" as testing has shown it actually cools better than the Noctua D-15 at full fan speed at the expense of some noise simply because the fans are higher RPM. But also because the cooler is just $60 USD. Seems to be a slam-dunk product if you ask me Also wondering what kind of thermal paste I should get. I used to use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut as it was the best on the market for thermal conductivity while not being electrically conductive. I heard they have better products these days and others have apparently stepped up to compete?
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Parts: Mobo: Asus ROG Strix X570-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler (with adapter bracket for AM4) This small bit of the motherboard cooling system makes it impossible for me to mount my CPU cooler. I've tried pushing it in from the side to no avail, and the screws are too short to even get it on there, though the piece would still be there. What's my best course of action? I can take off the piece of the motherboard heatsink I think, but I've heard that you shouldn't leave it off. I think it's made of metal, so could it be possible to remove it and sand off the little bit I need for clearance? I really am stumped (and frustrated at the design). Thanks in advance.
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Hi Everyone! So I built my first PC a month ago and I've been enjoying it so far and haven't had any issues with it other than PSU coil wine when I play or do anything on the system that demands a lot of power I guess? Or at least that's what I've been able to diagnose (Corsair HX850 PSU btw, and yes I made sure it was my PSU and not GPU). Just wanted to ask questions about my exhaust fans (3 and 5 - See the Diagram for reference), and more specifically my top mounted 140mm exhaust fans. I've realized that the one near the rear of the case is the one that usually exhausts the hot air out more than the one in front of it, because when I put my hand over both of them the one towards the rear is usually exhausting hotter air. The other one is usually exhausting colder air which tells me that it's not really doing anything, so I've been thinking should just reverse both and have them be intake fans as the GPU hotspot temp usually hits 80 degrees-ish when I'm gaming on maxed everything (with RTX if its stable enough, although its not too much of a concern for me). This would mean the only exhaust fan would be the rear stock fan that came with the Lian Li Lancool 3. YES I AM AWARE that the extra PCIE cables are hanging onto the 24 pin motherboard connector but I don't really feel like cutting them off and you know, it works lol. Thoughts, comments, recommendations would be nice as I'm kind of learning how to optimize my system as I go; this is all a new experience to me, I've also added 4 pics for you guy to look at. Thanks :)
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I have a nzxt h510 case and currently have the 2 black fans that came with it i also have a rgb coolermaster aircooler with the rgb on the fan not working as coolermasterplus+ cant detect the air cooler i want to add more rgb upgrade fans and mabye even get a rgb aoi for my ryzen 7 5700x, under a budget what should i get?.
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I have a ROG Flow X13 with R9 5800hs, 16 GB RAM, and GTX 1650. I am noticing very low performance on games and on running bechmarks I see the gpu reaching 92 deg C really fast and then reducing the clock speed from 900 Mhz to 300-400 Mhz. I remember seeing low FPS in games similar to this last year and was able to fix it by just cleaning the fans, however that doesn't seem to work now. I am thinking maybe its the thermal paste which has gotten old and I am considering replacing it. Looking up my laptop shows that it uses liquid metal on the cpu and thermal paste on the gpu by default. I am thinkinng of ordering "Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal - (1.0 Gram)" for the cpu and "Noctua NT-H2 3.5g" for the gpu. This is how the cpu and gpu thermal application looks like(from a random yt video): And this is the before and after of me cleaning the fans last year: also, I have tried updating the graphics driver, bios, and running on manual max fan curves and still dont get the performance I remember getting on the same games. any suggestions on what I can do?
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I have an ROG Zephyrus M16 (2022) which has an Intel i9 12900H and an RTX 3070ti. At around a year old, the CPU's temperatures started to gradually increase. I took the laptop to the store to see if ASUS's warranty could do anything about it, but they said the temps were all fine. Around 3 months later, the problem has gotten bad enough that at idle the laptop averages 90C. I already tried cleaning the fans, the vents, updating all possible software (Windows, drivers, BIOS), and no of it worked. So I even tried repasting the laptop with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. However, even with the complete repaste (I made sure to apply it correctly), the laptop is still idling at around 90C. I even tried a laptop cooling stand and nothing changes. Of course when I play games the laptop stutters as the temperature is stuck on 95C immediately. When I first got the laptop, I got around 300 FPS in valorant and as a reference, now I get 50FPS - 150FPS (FLUCTUATES A LOT - basically stutters/ frame skips). The GPU's cooling is completely fine and arguably spectacular as it almost never goes above 60C and idles around 40C. Please help, I have no idea what to do next. I've attached a screenshot of my Armoury Crate at idle.
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Does a pc consuming 500 watts from wall, heat a room similar to 500 watts hair dryer? -
I just built a new pc with a ryzen 7 5800x and a fractal design Celsius+ s28 140mm fans as my aio cooler and the cpu will idle around 35c but then randomly go and stay around 60c with 0% load for a while then drop back down. Max load on cpu caps at 80c. Any ideas why it’s randomly getting so hot? Thanks!
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Hey, This is my first post here so please bear with me I have an issue with my MSI Ventus RTX4070ti. It was placed in a Inter-Tech Infinity 608 case and had some artifacts when it reached 72 degrees celcius. So to eliminate heat being an issue I went a bit overboard. I've ordered myself a Tower 500 from Thermaltake which has 2 120mm fans on the back and I placed a total of 5 140mm fans and 3 120 mm fans extra in the system. The system is swarming in space and when the fans start spanning at 100% it actually gets cold in the entire room. In the Tower 500 there are 3 fans of 120mm at the bottom (which required a bit modding) taking fresh air in. 2 fans of 140mm are seated above it making the air being distributed to the rest of the case. Then 1 fan of 140mm is mounted vertically exhausting air to the right out of the case. On the top of the case are 2 140mm fans exhausting air out of the case and on the bakplaten we have another 2 fans of 140mm (which came with the Tower 500) exhausting air to the back. I've added a pic to make it a bit more clear except the 2 fans on the backplate (behind the mainboard) which are not visible but as mentioned earlier are also exhausting air. Seems cool right? Well not really. When running Furmark the temperature got to a staggering 85 degrees C with an hotspot on the die of over 100 degrees. That's roughly 13 degrees more than in my previous claustrophobic Inter-tech case. What am I missing here? Does any1 have any pointers. Thanks for your time
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Hi everyone In December I upgraded from an i5-8400 and a 1060 6GB to a new system in the same InWin 101 case. My new system specs are: i5-13600KF CoolerMaster Evo 212 with dual fans MSI Pro Z790-A DDR4 motherboard 16GB DDR4 RTX 3080 Founders Edition 850W power supply 2x m.2 drives 1x sata SSD 1x HDD I have two intake fans on the side at the front, and then an one exhaust at the back, and two more exhaust at the bottom. No matter what, even in Apex Legends or Sims 4, my fans are at full tilt, and HW info says the CPU is throttling. GPU temps are fine. I downloaded the Intel over lock utility so I could run a stress test, and within 15 seconds the CPU hits 100° and throttles. What should I check? Is it possible my cooler isn't seated correctly? I plan on moving this build into a Fractal North case on a month or two, should I consider getting an AIO when I do that? Am I damaging my CPU by using it in its current state? I use the PC for work (writing text in a browser) and gaming. I play Cyberpunk 2077 sometimes, but mainly Apex Legends. I appreciate any and all feedback, and thank you for your time
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I want to build a sff pc with the Lian Li A4-H2O with a i7 13700k and a 4070. The case only supports up to a 240mm rad, and I've heard the 13700k runs hot. Is a 240mm AIO going to be enough cooling? Part of workload is 3D renders and video editing so it could be under heavy sustained loads a lot.
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So i am upgrading my old pc basically everything is new except my cpu cooler On the new motherboard is has a cup_fan AIO_pump and w_pump slot that are all 4 pin i have tried different configuration to connect my pump (corsair h115i) to my mother board (asus prime z690-A) everything else works except the pump its also pluged in via usb. I get no lights on the pump and no cooling
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I recently got the Phanteks G360A case in white and thinking about changing the fans or at least adding a few more. So I have a few questions for the front intake would it be better to have 2 140mm fans instead of 3 120 since the half of the bottom fan is just blowing air in the the psu shroud? Are the Be quiet! Light Wings quieter than the Phanteks M25 120mm (guessing these are the stock fans). Are there any other white fans that are white, with or without rgb if with rgb preferably not to intense.
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i remember a video where linus puts a whol computer under miniral oil to cool it down. it had great thermal and looked awesome. but i always got bothered with the fact they left the cpu/gpu heatsinks on. like... wouldnt it be better to remove the IHS and gpu heatsink and directly let the oil touch the die? and just to be safe have a fan near the processor die to keep liquid moving. i would absolutely love to see this concept come to life. and if you like this idea to come to life. like this post and hopefully the team sees it as well
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Hello everyone! Nice to meet you all, I'm new in this forum I want to ask your opinion on, as the title above, whether I should put nylon filter mesh on the underside of my laptop stand. So my laptop stand have this several big holes in the middle of it for airflow (ex. as shown in the attachment). I fear that my laptop (HP Omen 16) will suck higher amount of dust over times because of that holes, so I plan to put nylon filter mesh (either size 120 / 150, rated for 125 and 100 micron respectively since I saw that many nylon fan filter have that size) on the underside of the stand, mayble glue the mesh on it. But is it a good idea to do that? Will it restrict the airflow too much instead, leading to possibly more problem down the line? Or should I just not put that mesh and just air can dust the laptop more often? Does that hole even affect how many dust the laptop gonna collect, and should I be worried in the first place? Thanks for the help!
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Im going to repaste my cpu today. The paste currently applied was the included paste that came with my DRP4 but i figured i could do better by swapping out the ILM with a contact frame and applying some kryonaut. The paste has been on there since april when i built the thing so I dont think it should be too hard to get off with the 70% IPA i have. Im planning on using cotton balls and coffee filters to remove the existing paste. Is there anything I should know before going to repaste my cpu and cooler? This is my first time doing such a thing.
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I currently have an HP omen 15 with ryzen 7 5800h & rtx 3060, it performs great, until 2 weeks ago when the CPU started to instantly spike to 100°C when I try to game on it, the gpu is fine, the cpu is the problem even sitting at idle it hovers around 45~70 degrees, which I find worrying, I replaced the thermal paste on both the GPU and CPU, and it seems only the GPU as gained something from it, the CPU hasn't from some reason. the Laptop still performs great, it even games great, but the instant spiking to around 100°C when trying to game or deploying virtual machines is not normal as far as I know. I am looking to buy a New gaming laptop unless I can find a fix to this overheating issue, which OEM has the best cooling system? budget is around 1500 usd -
Hi. I upgraded my PC to a 5900X yesterday and am experiencing super high idle temps - about 80 degrees! I have used the same 280mm AIO cooler from my old rig and applied new thermal paste (details below). Temps were immediately super high on idle with nothing happening. So removed and applied thermal paste again but same problem. If I set my AIO pump to extreme mode, then idle temps come down to 50 degrees but then immediately goes to 80/90 degrees just doing F1 2020 benchmark. I also noticed that when I am in bios, the CPU temps seems decent - below 50 degree - but as soon as get into Windows, it’s at 80 degrees! All components (new and old) detected and all default (I just installed out of the box and only turned on XMP). I checked temps HWInfo64, NZXT CAM, HWMonitor and Ryzen Master - all show the high idle temps. I honestly have no idea what the problem is and would appreciate any help! Happy to share more info if needed. CPU - Ryzen 9 5900X Motherboard - X570 Aorus Pro (Rev 1.2) Cooler - Corsair H115i Extreme (CW-9060027-WW) RAM - 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 2400Mhz C14 Case Fans - Corsair LL140 (front intakes) Cooler Fans - Corsair LL140 (exhaust) Case - Fractal Design Meshify 2 Thermal Paste - Coolermaster Mastermaker Pro
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I recently got a Topdon TC001 thermal imaging camera to use as a trouble shooting tool and it's been awesome for testing PC thermals. I had to make a wooden frame side panel with a cling wrap window to allow IR band light to pass through as the regular glass is thermally opaque and highly reflective. The cling wrap emits weak thermal radiation which is nice as it shows the heat pattern that would be spread across the glass while still being transparent for the most part. I plan to test several different flow regimes as it is useful to understand how stagnation and local pressure effects heat in the case. This is the first experiment I ran while playing Diablo 4, trying to see if my old idea of back to front case flow was working how I imagined it. Turns out yes, it's working as planned with most of the hot air exiting into the dead space at the top front of the case. I know this will cause higher dust ingestion but the goal is to provide the best possible cooling potential to the CPU and GPU. No air gets used twice when setup this way and the motherboard stays cooler over all. The idea behind the bottom fans is to push cool air under the GPU cooler preventing recirculation of the hot exhaust air back down between it and the case panel. The F9 mounted on the empty case slots is crucial in this role as the back corner of a case is historically bad for stagnation and recirculation. There's a divider between the bottom front fan and the top two which prevents mixing of the flows inside the case from which has space for a full rad and fans, without this the case rapidly heats up due to the same hot air being passed through the GPU over and over. I've had a lot of push back about running opposed flow top fans and feel vindicated now that I can see the air flow across the ram from the top rear 140mm to the top front 140mm. I will try flipping the top front fan later today and see what kind of difference it makes. Top front exhaust small.mp4
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I've been occasionally repasting both my personal Laptops and some devices at work. But I've always run into issues: The temps are great for the first couple days, but just a few weeks / months after repasting, the CPU is back to old temps. One year later, I even had a few devices crashing because of the CPU overheating under load. After some googling, it turns out that the regular thermal paste (Arctix MX4 / MX5) that I've been using, isn't ideal for direct die application. I suppose it doesn't as well, because of pump out. Reddit recommends to go with high viscosity thermal compound, such as Gelid GC Extreme or Honeywell PTM7950. What is generally considered the best price/performance thermal compound for laptops? And is there a difference in what I should use between repasting office and gaming laptops?
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any thoughts an advice on new case an mods for my old build an layout as ill soon be transferring my previous LITTLE YELLOW BEAST to my new case the nzxt h5 flow - paint job still in the works the case needs two more even coats long with the io & pci plates hard drive , bottom angled fan mount an rad mount brackets before gear would be transferred still waiting on vertical mount to arrive so i can paint that to all the previous setup's gear is to be moved aside from a ram upgrade im going from 32gb to 64gb my current game plan for gear layout in the new case is to vertical mount gpu as before but with Coolermaster Universal Vertical GPU Holder Kit Ver.2 an to mount the aio in the front top fan position in the pull config with both 120mm fans as front exhaust on the outer of the rad bracket mount also with the bottom angled fan as exhaust to an a 120mm Fan Size Cooler Exhaust Shroud on the other side of the aio as a intake scoop aimed torwards the top front fan to be set as intake along with the other an rear also as intake ther are two main reasons i down with some of my builds 1.positive pressure with some case an my room air flow an temps an gear just works better 2.cleaning my home has a shitty stucco ceiling the just flaks fine paint dust that cake my filter on pc's an other gear a as the home is a rental i cant do a thing about it so ease of cleaning is a must especially not having to open up the case every week to clean but rather just taking my shopvac over the outside to off an out the filters is better an iv got some good filter mesh to put between the top an rear fans that iv used before the collects the paint fleck an does hinder air flow so thats the jest your thought advice , or gentle criticism 06/22/23 update 2nd & 3rd paint coat update these 6 pixs are of the 2nd & 3rd coatsthis side of the front panel looks better on the other side more pixs later plus the io pci plates an drive an fan tray mounts an fittings will be coated later to day then a final pic with all together before the pc gut are transferred
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I've been planning to re-paste thermal paste for my V2 switch (2019). It doesn't get seriously hot, but there is definitely an increase in heat fan noise and heat overall. Plus I think it needs little bit of cleaning and servicing! I have serveral years of experience with PC parts and larger consoles, but this is the first time I'm taking apart something small and delicate as the switch. Im planning to do the following to improve the thermal performance of this device, please let me know if I've planned something wrong or anyway I can improve these. Remove the metal CPU shield cover shim (or whatever thats called) and re-apply thermal paste there (Noctua NT-H1, surface will be cleaned with Arctic Clean Kit + 70% alcohol wipes). Put thermal pad on memory modules (options below) 2.a - Put a 0.5mm thermal pad in between the shim and the memory module 2.b - Put only on top of the shim not inside it (but I feel like there is not enough contact between the modules and the shim 2.c - do both above. Then reapply the paste between shim and heat-pipe Then between the pipe and the shield plate I also wanted to know If I can replace the foam pieces on heat-sink with standard duct-tape -----or----- some thermal pads? (Thermal pads on heat-pipe will be a bad idea when it comes to heat dissipation) - I have a feeling they are tightly glued and may tear when removing the heat-sink, just being ready. I need help with steps 2 and 5 mainly here, what should I do?
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