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I'm hoping to eventually upgrade my CPU cooler from a Noctua NH-U12S to a 240mm NZXT Kraken AIO cooler. I'm hoping to replace the fans with the F120 RGB fans eventually as I do prefer the looks. I have the Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL 16 GB (2x 8gb) ram sticks and I measured about 50mm of clearance. I did look at the thickness of the cooler with fans and it did come out a bit thicker but was wondering if anyone else tried this and if there still might be a way to make this work.
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First time PC Builder, got parts for Christmas and built them: Parts I think are relevant - AMD Ryzen 7 7700 X CPU MSI MAG Coreliquid C360 Sometimes the PC boots, temps run normally, no issues. Idles at about 40C. Other times, temps start rising on startup and just don’t stop. Sometimes it’s like the cooler slows the rising temps but they always eventually continue rising into the 90-100 range. Was told too much thermal paste could be the issue, so I reapplied thermal paste last night, worked the first time I booted it up. Today, back to the same old issue. Is it an issue with the cooler itself? Did I put too much paste again? Help please Let me know if there is any other info you need
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Anyone know of a 7+ port fan hub, preferably one that's controllable from Debian software? I currently have a Corsiar Commander Pro connected to all my fans because I found a article that explained how to setup proxmox to control the fans (I just never got around to implementing it); however, after a rebuild I am now at 7 fans which is 1 more than my commander pro can support. I could use a Y splitter but I don't want to do that because I want all of my fans to have PWM control and all the Y splitters I have and have seen won't allow that. I've been trying to find a 2 - 4 port fan hub from Corsiar but I'm not having any luck, although I am funding RGB hubs of that type. I want software controlled because I'm hoping I'll be able to run the fans slower (and therefore quieter) than they would be when direct motherboard connected. If I'm wrong in this then do let me know. If someone knows of a different 7+ port fan hub that's also controllable from within proxmox/Debian then I'd really appreciate it if you could let me know what that is.
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Cardboard wind chute/tunnel - Edit: Final Prototype Complete.
Madmaximus01 posted a topic in Cooling
In my continual journey to improve my pc I thought hey why dont I try making a wind chute/tunnel for my cpu air cooler just for a laugh, it'll take 10mins and then it will fail and I can laugh at myself for even trying. Turns out just using some roughly cut cardboard and some tape works extremely well. Not only is my cpu getting direct fresh air from the outside, it's seperated from the gpu's hot air. I now get idle temps of about 32-33 degrees. I knew this would have a positive effect of some kind. But an overall temp drop of 10 degrees+ is absolutely insane. My cpu barely touches 60 degrees now. Cinebench r23 it sticks around 70-74 degrees. Why on earth this form factor/idea fell away from popularity several decades ago in the pc enthusiast market I have no idea. This has severely improved my cooling by a level I didnt even think possible. Yes there is a screwgun drill bit holding up my gpu fight me- 150 replies
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Hey guys, I've had an H100i pro RGB corsair AIO for the last 7 years on a Ryzen 5 1600x and since the beginning it struggled to cool my CPU (it would run at 80C at max load with stock CPU settings) which I didn't think much of at the time because I was a big dingus when it came to PCs. for the last year I have on and off been trying to fix it but yesterday I bought a new air cooler to test if it was the AIO that's being funky. To cut a long story short, even after buying a new CPU (Ryzen 5 5500), swapping coolers, changing between multiple different brands of thermal paste, swapping out motherboard backplates and trying 3 different coolers, no matter what CPU or cooler I put on my motherboard it runs hot. My new 5500 runs at 70-75C at 75W power and 25C ambient temperature. The AIO works wonderfully in my brothers PC so I know now it was not the AIO that was broken either. I have no overclock or anything applied to any of the CPUs, I'm running stock BIOS settings besides for DOCP. My case has 2 corsair ML120 fans and a phanteks PH_F120SK_BBK_PWM fan for exhaust, I have removed the front panel as it is quite restrictive and all the temps are with 100% fan speed on everything. Heres the list of parts I have used and my current config: Ryzen 5 5500 (current) A second R5 5500 from my dads PC to test if it was the new CPU ID Cooling SE-226-XT (Current) Phanteks PH-TC12DX (just to test, from my bros PC) Asus Prime B450M-A (Current) Phanteks P300 Eclipse with the front cover removed so it can breathe (Current) Pastes I tried: Thermal grizzly hydronaut, kryonaut, ID cooling paste, Phanteks PH-NDC, solar geyser heat transfer paste (Its very fluid, was just to test) My case has 2 corsair ML120 fans and a phanteks PH_F120SK_BBK_PWM fan for exhaust, I have removed the front panel as it is quite restrictive and all the temps are with 100% fan speed on everything. I know the ID cooling tower works well, I built a friends PC and his 5700x with the same cooler maxes out at around 55-60C Is it possible there is something wrong with my motherboards socket or something thats making any cooler/CPU have a bad mount? Literaly any help will be appreciated, I have completely run out of ideas at this point I have attached a screenshot of HWmonitor while running a stress test
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So recently, I turned on my computer to find the GPU fans constantly at 100% speed. I tried to check MSI Afterburner (which is the software I use to control my fan speeds), and Afterburner said the GPU fans were running at the correct percentage. But judging by the sounds of the GPU fans, it very much was not running the listed speed. After this discovery, I updated my drivers, reset my bios settings, and reinstalled MSI Afterburner (to no avail). Specs: Windows 11 Home 22621.2861 Intel Core i5-9400f 1x Crucial CT16G4DFD8266 16 GB DDR4-2666 CL19 1x Corsair Vengance 8 GB DDR4-3200 Corsair H100i v2 70.69 CFM 1x Samsung 860 Evo 250 GB 2.5" SSD 1x Crucial (?) 250 GB M.2 (sorry can't remember the exact model) ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 8GB OC Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L Case Gigabyte B365M DS3H Micro ATX Motherboard EVGA 500 W1 500 W 80+ ATX PSU I believe it's an OS problem, as the fans only kick to 100% speed about a minute after logging into the computer. Thanks for any help you can provide!
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I have a fractal north air case with a glass panel. I have 3 lian LI uni V2 sl120 fans in the top (intake) 1 in the back(exhaust) and 2 140 mm fans in the front for intake (they came with the case) I'm also using a noctua Nh-u9s for my cpu. is that a good fansetup or should I change some things around? (I really want it to look good)
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The title says it all. I'm getting parts for a new computer and just making sure they are compatible.
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- water blocks
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Just began building my PC yesterday and eventually came across the issue of my NZXT Kraken Elite 360mm not operating as it should be. The three RGB fans are not spinning yet they are connected to SATA power from my PSU. This specific Radiator comes with an RGB controller with which the fans are connected to and plugged into a USB 2.0 Y connector that is also used by the Pump to share a single USB 2.0 header on the bottom of my Asus Maximus Z790 Hero motherboard. The RGB for the fans DOES WORK. However they don’t spin on startup when receiving power like most videos and guides show. The LCD Display has never once turned on despite switching around the SATA connector and 3-pin pump connector to either AIO_PUMP or CPU_FAN. (The manual for the AIO said either could be used, but I’d just have to fix the CPU fan speed error in the bios.) One of my troubleshooting methods was to connect the three Cooler fans into a different fan splitter that was being used by my case’s three front-panel fans. Which allowed them to actually work. This helped me narrow it down to the connection being the issue. Not the fans themselves. Im assuming my LCD has a dead backlight, and my breakout cable is defective. Since this cable specifically has my three fans, the pump connector, SATA for power and the USB 2.0 connector for the motherboard all in one place.
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Hey all, I will try to keep this short and sweet. I've scoured the internet for an answer but all I see is seriously mixed results. So, I had my old PC lying around, as I recently upgraded. I didn't want this to go to waste anymore, so have made the decision to attempt to convert this to a SFF and use specifically for gaming in the living room. The system houses a 3900X, and a 2080 super GPU. I purchased a Fractal Terra without doing any prior research and found that I couldn't get any cooler sufficient enough that would fit in the system, without extreme noise levels, even running in ECO mode on the CPU front. I am looking to make the switch to a PHANTEKS Evolv Shift 2 case, and just want to know, will this CPU run, at reasonable temperatures, in ECO mode, whilst using a 120mm AIO? (Potentially H60i, or beQuiet! Pure Loop 120mm. Or any other recommendations that would keep this as cool as possible, whilst maintaining low noise levels). Yes, I know this is an overkill CPU; I needed it for game development work, but have since upgraded, so I didn't want to waste the 3900X and just go buy a lower performant CPU for this purpose . Thanks in advance... All the best... and most of all, Happy New Year! -Liam
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So I wanted to turn down the GPU fans to 0% when the temperature is under say 50c. However, MSI afterburner wont let me turn it below 30%. Is this locked because of a setting in afterburner, or in my BIOS? Card: ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 8GB DUAL OC-Thank you.
- 20 replies
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- temperature
- cooling
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my specs -asus tuf gaming z690-plus -intel i7-12700k -nzxt h5 flow the cooler I recently bought was the cooler master hyper 212 (120 mm) my question is will this be enough to keep the CPU cool non overclocked if not, please recommend air coolers that could fit in my case thank you!
- 8 replies
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- cooling
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Budget (including currency): >$1500 AUD Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Adobe Audition, Wondershare Filmora, Python, Fortnite (maybe), Minecraft and other basic programs i.e. adobe acrobat and . Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hey, This is me (and my dads) first ever build. Its a MicroATX build without graphics card, only IGPU (for now, not required). Got a strong CPU so it can last a while. Not focused on RGB although it would be nice if convenient. We started researching for the parts around the black Friday sale from PC part picker (and watched yt videos) and settled on these parts: (sorry for .au links) Main: CPU: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09FXNVDBJ?tag=pcppau-22&linkCode=ogi&th=1 CPU Cooler: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0CJDPGP2T?tag=pcppau-22&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 Motherboard: https://www.msy.com.au/product/asrock-b760m-pg-lightning-lga-1700-matx-motherboard-74452 RAM: https://www.amazon.com.au/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-5600MHz-PC5-44800-Desktop/dp/B0B3GYZHYK Storage: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B098WKQRDL?tag=pcppau-22&linkCode=ogi&th=1 PSU: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00J2FD6JQ?tag=pcppau-22&linkCode=ogi&th=1 OS: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09HL13F9M?tag=pcppau-22&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 Case:https://www.amazon.com.au/Thermaltake-Tempered-Glass-Micro-CA-1Q9-00S6WN-00/dp/B0886K75W2/ref=pd_sbs_sccl_3_7/358-6051357-7259747?pd_rd_w=kF1qY&content-id=amzn1.sym.074e8000-3202-4531-aa1d-334324a2e104&pf_rd_p=074e8000-3202-4531-aa1d-334324a2e104&pf_rd_r=RBK7YK2VAD1ZN1FFF8PZ&pd_rd_wg=WS6p8&pd_rd_r=e67ca650-bb6b-490d-9f18-7c0bb4f68d5b&pd_rd_i=B0886K75W2&th=1 Peripherals: (ignore) Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07HRNKTCM?tag=pcppau-22&linkCode=ogi&th=1 Mouse: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07YN82X3B?tag=pcppau-22&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 Monitor: https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/lg-24-fhd-monitor-24mp400-lg24mp400 Heres the question: Will our cooler be enough? We have the: Thermalright Assassin X 90 SE ARGB CPU Air Cooler. I looked online and didn't really find a good measure that this fan will be enough for our CPU (it's pretty hot i think). Then there's a debate between me and my dad if we should opt for an AIO or liquid cooler. Help and suggestions for coolers would be appreciated! best for budget would be best. (Any other compatibility/budget recommendations/warnings would be helpful)
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right now I have my eyes on the lian li sl infinity 140 and the artic p14 argb. Im super frustrated I just want to make sure the fans I get are best available, No budget.
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I have a Rysen 5800X being cooled by a Corsair H115i RGB PRO XT, 280mm AIO radiator. If I recall correctly, the AIO radiator came bundled with the 5800X when I bought it. I have precision boost overdrive on and if I recall correctly, I've got it slightly overvolted. When I have Folding@home running (CPU only, no GPU), it goes up to 92°C and stays there, drawing around 105 W. With this cooler, is this type of temperature expected at this power draw, or might I have set something up incorrectly (e.g. bad thermal paste application, or incorrect pressure between the CPU and cooler, or have fans blowing in the wrong way)? I tried looking up the cooling capacity of the H115i Pro XT 280mm, but I couldn't find a simple "it's good for up to X watts" answer. For additional context: When I start/stop intensive CPU activity, be it Folding@home or an AIDA64 stress test, the CPU temps rocket up / drop down to normal within a matter of seconds. I don't know the significance of this fact, though, nor do I know whether it's expected. Here's a screenshot of HWMonitor while Folding@home is running:
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I am thinking of buying the acer nitro v 15(i5 13450h and rtx 4050 ). But one thing that i am concerned about is the outflow vent being directed towards the display. Does it affect the display? I want to play some fps games and use it for my college. Will the hot air be bad for the display?
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This is the link to my current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/BodaciousYT/saved/BPs6Bm So, I currently have a 7800xt and a 7800x3d in my system and its being cooled by 3 NZXT case fans running as an Intake, An NZXT Kraken 360 AIO as an outtake (Exhaust), and an additional 120mm NZXT Core fan as a rear outtake (exhaust). I use my PC for gaming but also for watching movies, doing schoolwork, as well as other personal tasks like finances. I recently noticed that the GPU fans weren't spinning but I just assumed that it had a Zero RPM Mode it was just strange to me because my previous GPU's in other systems didn't. My idle temps rest at around 49°C on the GPU and 52° C. I have Auto OC enable on ryzen master and XMP 1 on my ram but other than that I haven't manually changed any fan or clock speeds. I don't really have a reason to overclock my gpu because it handles the most intensive game I play MW2 without any issues with max temps being around 79-82°C. My CPU has weird temp spikes once it's load is around 30% usage (when running something like a driver update) where the temp rises to about 74°C and when I run a stress test it goes to the max temp allowed in ryzen master which is 89°C but it doesn't seem to throttle. So my questions are: Are my idle temps good considering the cooling setup? Is it bad for my system to have 3 intake, 4 outtake because I know it's technically a negative pressure system? If I do add 2 more fans at the bottom to fill the case should they be intake or outtake? Are my CPU temps rising fast under not even 50% load an issue? Considering that I do more idle tasks that fall near the Zero RPM threshold for my GPU wouldn't the fact that the gpu has to spin up at lower rpm's every few minutes counterproductive to the goal of avoiding dust buildup and preserving the bearings in contrast to running the fans at a set speed when idle? I've seen some people recommend running all the Case/AIO fans at max speed, would that actually be beneficial? Finally if I do have to do anything in regard to modifying the fan curve and speed for the case/aio/gpu is there any software that can do it for me automatically without having to worry about manual input because the gigabyte aorus bios sucks and I don't think it even has fan controls? I know this was really long, and I don't expect every question to get answered but if you can answer any of these it would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello, Im considering building a loop for my new pc build i was looking to get some guidance and help to make sure i have everything i need and it will work. Here is my pc specs EVGA 3080 FTW3 - Reusing my current GPU ASRock z790 Nova Core I7 14700K -- looking at using Kryosheet instead of paste TG intel contact frame 64gb G.Skill Trident Z5 DDR5 6400MT/s Corsair RM1000e Phanteks NV7 12 Phanteks D30 Fans Here are some of the parts im looking at for my loop, let me know your thoughts on these parts and anything else i need or dont need 1x Heatgun 1x Alphacool Core Hurrican 360mm XT45 HardTube Water Cooling Set (11993) 1x Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-N RTX 3080/3090 FTW3 with backplate (11943) 1x Alphacool NexXxos XT45 360mm (14166) 1x Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm (14344) 1x EKWB EK-CryoFuel Premix 1000mL 1x Alphacool Eisrohr PETG HardTube 13mm ID 16mm OD 60cm clear 4 pack (18514) 1x ASHATA 16mm bending kit 1x Corsair hydro X series xf ball valve 1x Marrteum G1/4" 3-way ball fitting extender connectors 2 Pack 1x Barrow G1/4" Composite plate filter x1 PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid RevolverSX series fittings 12 pack x2 Barrow G1/4" Male to Male mini extender fitting 4 Pack I have attached some Ideas for the layout if you could give me some feed back on these as well. they arent the best photos i made them at work with MS paint lol
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Hello everyone, I recently got a 7800x3d and I'm soon going to install it but I haven't set my mind on a cooler yet. I currently have in my possession a Dark Rock 4 that fits perfectly in my NZXT s340 elite and I was wondering if I could save on some money to spend on a better graphics card by using the cooler and case I already have. Is that something that I can make work or am I gonna toast my cpu? I also have 4 x 120mm fans installed, 2 for intake and 2 for exhaust and I want to change the intake to 2 x 140mm.
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To start, I am typing this on my phone because I no longer am able to turn on the computer for more than a few minutes without it overheating. Things I have tried already: Check AIO for flow, check cpu-to-cooler connection, apply new thermal paste, check task manager for high processes, and clean the PC I have had this NZXT pre-built pc for years now, but only about a month or two ago did I start experiencing issues with overheating. What normally would happen is that each time I would try and fix the problem, (with what I tried being above) the PC would work great for a couple days, then go back to overheating. I have continued to try and solve the problem myself, but I have no idea what else to do since I genuinely cannot startup the PC for more that a few minutes before it turns off on the home screen with only minor background processes (about 4% cpu load according to NZXT cam and my task manager). With that yap session aside, how could I go about troubleshooting from here, I am desperate to try and fix it without buying new components if possible, as well as reinstalling windows, as I don't have an external drive to save my data on. And just to make sure I wasn't stupid, I set up my PC in the middle of the room on the table with the air set to 68° inside and a fan on to see if airflow was the issue. Please Help! Specs: NZXT H510 AMD Ryzen 5 5600x 6-Cores 3.7GHz NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX™ 3070 - GIGABYTE VISION OC 8G MSI B450I GAMING PLUS AC Team T-FORCE Delta RGB 3200MHz 3200 MHz 32GB (2X16GB) WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Seagate Barracuda 4TB NZXT Kraken M22 Seasonic S12III 650W Bronze
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- cpu
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Hello I want to replace my m.2 drives and want to replace the thermalpads to but i don know what thickness pad i need cant find it anywhere i read somewhere that it is different on every motherboard i have a asus x570 e gaming
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- thermalpad
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Thinking about buying a new AIO and I'm a bit unsure if I am going to go with a top mounted 360 or a front mounted 420. Using the Phanteks G500A and swaying towards a 420mm in front to get equal cooling at lower noise levels. Any recommendations (for mounting) or strong opinions you want to share.
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- 420mm radiator
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Hey guys. I've had my new build for 2 months now and the AIO has been noticeably noisy, especially since it's sitting right next to me on the desk. The pump produces a very high pitch sound constantly. The issue is somehow more audible at idle state when I'm just browsing internet, watching youtube videos etc and disappears almost completely when in game. Here's a short video with all case fans disabled (high pitch sound is very noticeable at around 0:30) : Disclaimer : I know the AIO should be mounted with tubes coming out from the bottom but I couldn't because of GPU length. The Arctic documentation shows (and several youtube videos from gamers nexus/jayztwocents etc) that tubes coming out from the top is fine if the pump is below the highest point in the loop, which is the case here. I've contacted Arctic support and they can't really identify the issue so they told me to ask for a replacement unit, but what's keeping the next one from behaving exactly the same ? This high pitch noise is what's really driving me nuts since it's piercing through my headphones. So.. is this normal behavior for an AIO pump ? Let me know, thanks.
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Hey there! I am planning on changing my pc's case with the Asus Prime AP201 but can't figure out a sensible airflow. Would the one in the attached image be a good setup? I am afraid there would be too much positive pressure but otherwise there would be scarce intake since the bottom fans are only blowing air to the GPU.