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Hello Linus Community. I have a question, I always want to ask about my PC Chassis Fans. One of the Fan (Chassis Fan 03) stops after every few seconds and runs again automatically. Is this normal? I am using Asus ROG Strix B550-F Gaming (WiFi), and my BIOS version is 0243 (I understand it's an old version). How I can control that fan speed or if the fan is required to be replaced? Another question related to the same topic is that I have recently Installed Asus AI Suite 3, and there I cannot see any activity about AIO Pump. I am using DEEP COOL CPU cooler for my Ryzen 9 3950x CPU. Any help will be appreciated. Thank You in Advance.
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- asus
- strix b550
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Built a new PC from scratch. The only thing I didn't purchase was a new cooler, as had an old AIO (which I later found out was bust and clogged) So I bought a cheap Corasair one while I shopped around. Cheap Corsair Air Cooler kept Idle temps below 50 and gaming temps below 80 (to be expected) So I bought Noctua Chromax Black Air Cooler and installed this yesterday. For some reason my Idling is 42 Degrees Celcius and some games are reaching the 80s. Modern Warfare 2 was giving me lag, input delay and stuttering. Whilst hitting 82 degrees c. Bannerlord was smashing 85 degrees c but no delay, input lag or any problems? Has anyone, ANY idea what I did wrong? (of course, I have re-administered Thermal paste like 10 times at this point. Reset BIOS. Re-installed the games. Checked everything out on MSI Centre, Core Temps and multiple other Softwares. My PC should technically be a beast, but it's just not performing like one Pls help. Thanks a bunch.
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Hello everyone! I want some other opinions on my current cooling situation. I have an Intel i7-12700K running at 5.1 GHz. I built this system in February of 2022 (16 months ago) and am cooling it with a MSI MAG Series CORELIQUID P240 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler. I used Fractal Design Venturi fans fans all the way around and the Fractal Design Meshify 3. I also used Noctua's NT-H1 thermal paste. I know the cooler's pump is the loudest part of my system, and it has made a annoying buzz since day one. I was recently looking to maybe replace the AIO with an NH-D15 from Noctua (which is about $109 USD) and I was wondering if it is a good use of my money. Will the Noctua fans be quieter than the AIO pump? Will the cooling performance be on par? I've got the room for it in my case and the funds to throw at it right now. I am going to upgrade the storage anyway and thought I may as well throw in a new cooler too if it would be quieter without sacrificing cooling. I also know it is over a year old, which I have heard AIOs don't last more than 2 years and I wouldn't want to risk a leak. Any advice is welcome! Thank you in advance!
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With the recent video from Louis Rossmann were he talks about Gigabyte's 30 series GPUs cracking, I wonder if it would be a good idea to remove my graphics card from the motherboard just in case. Is there something that I should be aware when I remove the GPU? I got all of the original packaging with me. I also have a NH-D15 on my CPU, should I remove that aswell?
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First I have a Corsair iCUE H100i RGB PRO XT Liquid CPU Cooler can I use any third party fans to connect to the cooler or will I have issues? Second if you can I’m looking for 120 slim fans what will be better than stock fans. The stock fans say on Corsair 2400rpm, 75cfm, 10-37dBA and static pressure 4.2mm H20 also not sure if that’s both fans combined. I’m looking at the Noctua 120mm NF-A12x15 PWM Chromax Black Fan as it’s perfect for size, says on one site 1850rpm, 94cfm, 23.9 dBA and static pressure 1,53 mm HO. Would this be a good upgrade? not to sure on fans requirements which is better. Should also mention my radiator sits on top panel with fans above it
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Hello! Just built this PC as it follows ryzen 9 7900x asus proart x670e creator wifi psu: corsair x850m 80+ platinum I have this weir sound, please see video, coming from the pump. Seems electrical. I’m not sure. Maybe bubbles and it’s normal. Also, the PC turns on just by switching the PSU on without the case switch. I tried without the headerd (power-sw / reset-sw) on and it turns on as well. Can be the motherboard? The Psu? Please help! Thank you Nico 53E1DF1A-1237-4D89-82DB-FC7C6381E024.mov
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Before I elaborate further and continue this discussion, I'm going to start at step 1 - For what reason would Pins 1 and 4 be shorted from the factory on the wire harness for my Asetek AIO liquid cooling pump in my Hewlett Packard desktop computer? This particular Asetek pump only utilizes 3 wires between the motherboard and pump, however pins 1 and 4 are shorted together with a small jumper wire at the plug. What would the purpose of doing this serve?
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I recently got an Intel i9-12900K (turbo power 241W) and was watching a bunch of GamersNexus' CPU cooler benchmarks trying to figure out what cooler would be sufficient for my workload (CAD, rendering, and FEA mostly). However, in many of his videos a ~200W load only reach steady state temperature deltas of ~50-60 degrees above ambient (so 75-85C, assuming ambient ~25C). Moreover, the best coolers (e.g., the $160 Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 or $135 DeepCool Assassin III) only seem to have a ~10C temperature delta over a cheaper cooler (e.g., the $40 Thermalright Peerless Assassin, or the $65 AK620) at these loads. However, other forums online post that i9-12900K's can easily get up to 100C with "insufficient cooling" (setting aside what they define as insufficient for now). Moreover, in the $40 Thermalright Peerless Assassin video, the 198W noise-normalized test (at 35 dBA) generally seemed to reach less than 5C more than the 123W noise-normalized test (also at 35 dBA). These stats all seem to contradict my common sense/each other - I'd appreciate any help understanding these discrepancies! More specifically, my questions are: Why do even the cheap coolers in GamersNexus' reviews only reach 75-85C with 198W sustained loads, while forums online say the Intel i9-12900K can easily reach 100C? How do these 198W tests differ from real high-wattage loads (if anything, I would've thought GamersNexus' method was more rigorous, since I imagine most workloads naturally ramp up and down over time instead of staying constant)? Assuming GamersNexus is right and even relatively high power draw doesn't throttle a CPU, is there any reason to shell out $100 USD extra for a better CPU cooler if I don't plan to overclock? Maybe a second point to this: is 10C even that huge a difference performance-wise, if you're not getting close to the 100C Intel CPU's reportedly throttle heavily at? Why would a 198W noise-normalized test only reach ~5C more than a 123W noise-normalized test? Can I extrapolate, so that even my 241W turbo Intel chip should reach ~5C more than GamersNexus' 198W load tests with a given cooler? Note that I'm not really looking for cooler recommendations - there are enough of those on the forum already. I'm more just trying to resolve my questions after trying to watch these online reviews and seeing conflicting results (although given GamersNexus' respect online, I imagine there's a good explanation I just can't think of). Thank you very much!
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So I just installed my Peerless Assassin 120 se and one of the fans are always at full speed. Is there any fix for that? The second one follows the fan curve perfectly but the other doesn't.
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What is the best purchase when it comes to single fan radiator Aio cooler vs Cpu Air Cooler. The CPU is AMD Ryzen 5 3600. Right now i am using the Stock cooler that comes with this processor. Temps are not that great. Also please recommend me some with your experience. Thanks
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- amd
- ryzen 5 3600
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CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED TUROO So i decided to change the thermal paste for my CPU, when i opened my CPU Cooler i saw this. This cooler is like an year old only. Now i would like to know after cleaning it with vinegar and salt water, will it be safe to use? Or should i simply buy a new one? Thanks
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Hi everyone, I am planning on building and mini-itx PC for college(cause my PC while not super old has a 2080 after all is just to dam big to move), and I have saved up enough to get an extreme overkill one(though not going to realistically lol), I am looking for a cooler, be it water or air cooler that would fit in a mini itx case assuming that a rtx 4080(the largest GPU I would reasonably put in the case) would be in the build along with a ryzen CPU(looking at the 7800 3xd, I believe that's its name). If you guys have any recommendations, please suggest them. As well as any power supplies recommendations that would power the above components and would fit as well. Here is my build at the moment https://pcpartpicker.com/list/G67WNc
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- cooler
- power supply
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I am installing a Thermalright ARO on a AM4 platform. According to manual, the 2 plastic brackets on the motherboard (installed by default) should removed. Then, 4 nylon tubes (that comes with cooler) should be installed. I also put the anchoring mount on the top of it : Anyway, there a 5 millimeter gap on each side that prevent me to start screwing the 2 x M3L7 screws. The CPU is making good contact with cooler, it cannot go lower than that. The height on each side is 8 mm : This seems to be correct and about the same as in this review (see the picture with a ruler) : https://tiny-reviews.com/reviews/2130-overview-on-thermalright-aro-m14g-processor-cooler There must be something wrong but I cannot figure what.
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I build a PC awhile back. I didn't give much thought to casing and cooling and now I think i messed up with the case. Is this a case with good air flow? Will it get too hot without aio? The model is Xigmatek Eros. It looked pretty and was on sale so i bought it.
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I am building my first PC and I kinda encountered the situation in which I have no clue on how to organize fans intake and exhaust. The case is a Cooler Master Masterbox Q300L and I will be getting an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 to cool a Ryzen 5 7600x, which would give me two exhaust fans already. Considering the 2 intake fans that can be placed in the front, one intake on the bottom and the exhaust on the back I'd have neutral pressure inside the case (theoretically at least). Would that create any sort of problem? Should I ignore the back exhaust fan? Should I simply go with neutral pressure?
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Hey guys, I have a 7700K system currently paired with an NH-D15. In a month or two, I'm upgrading to a 12600K system that I've slowly been building up, but I'm in a bit of a pickle. This 7700K system is being handed down to my fiancé as a small upgrade from her current system, and I'd like to make the transfer of hardware as simple as possible, which means I'd like to keep the NH-D15 attached to the board. Only issue is, I need a hand finding a case that can fit it. Ideally, it needs to be on dual fan mode and also clear a kit of G.Skill Ripjaws V. Dual fan mode makes the CPU cooler height about 175mm. What cases can you guys recommend that could fit that? Ideally we're looking for a mid-tower but anything a little bigger is fine. I originally planned to get her a Fractal Design Pop Air XL but the way the front I/O is configured will be awkward to use based on where the PC will sit. Would a case like the Corsair 4000D or 5000D fit it in the dual fan configuration? It does say 170mm clearance but I'm always skeptical, people have been able to fit things where they can't usually fit before.
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From the album: COOLER KEYCHAIN
KEYCHAIN INTEL STOCK COOLER CREATIVE -
I'm going to buy a 5600x for my PC. Should I water-cool my pc (if yes, which one would you recommend?)
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- watercooled
- amd
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Budget (including currency): 1600€ Country: Belgium Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: AAA games (mostly single player), schoolwork, ... I'm thinking of getting a Ryzen 5 5600x but I don't know yet if I should go with a cheap aio or an aircooler. Please let me know what you think! ( This is my first build) If you have any other suggestions for the rest of the build, please let me know. RAM: kingston hyperx predator 16gb DDR4-3200 CL16->90€ MB: gigabyte B550 aurus elite ATX ->168€ (not sure about this one) GPU: RTX 3070 -> 450€ SSD: samsung 970 evo 1TB->130€ HDD: seagate ironwolf pro 4TB ->140€ PSU: corsair RM 850W ->134€ case: not sure ( depends on the budget I have left)
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Whats up folks, I am using stock cooler for now ( wraith cooler ), Temperatures : BIOS - 42°C Windows normal mode (internet) - 52°C Gaming - 74°C +- after 5 min, I think could go like 80°C Now I have small PC case, and GPU 1060 Rog 3 vent, so there is not possible water cooling for now, but I don't wanna buying for same price middle range passive cooler. I read on some forum people buying for example : Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO , because of noise reduction but It almost same as stock cooler. On official web page they are saying in specification MAX temperature 95°C. My question is they are know, this processor will be overheat as usually and is normal have it with stock cooler like 80°C or I should to buy at least middle range cooler ? I don't wanna shorter my lifetime of processor. I solved it for now in BIOS I turned off Overclocking, my temperature is 50°C even in gaming with stock cooler. I want to hear your option and what I should to do in order overclock him back to set up better performance but not kill my life time processor. Also I am using the base paste what was on cooler , maybe If I could bought some better thermal paste ? Or Should I buy small water cooling with one 120mm vent ? is it worth ? THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR TIME AND YOUR ANSWERS.
- 5 replies
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- ryzen 5600x
- nzxt h210
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Hi, i need some help.. My cpu is stuck to the amd.. I have tried every trick i could find. Dental floss cant get under, left it in alcohol for some time (80%+) it only covered the amd... Tried heating it up with hairdryer, still wouldnt budge a single bit.. Tried skrew driver and razor blade... But there is no Chance for anything to get under it.. It is like the cpu is welded to the thing, i have Tried for 2 days now.. Several hours, and honestly i dont know what Else to do i really hope some of u could help! Thx
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Hey All, I know there is probably a thread that addresses this already, but I couldn't find it. I recently was introduce to the "P-ATX V2" SFF Case and have been entertaining the idea of moving my current 5900x/3070 set up into something of the sort. I have done a little research and have found that the main problem with this idea are the CPU temps and finding an adequate cooler to contain them. I currently have my 5900x clocked to 4.2GHz @ 1.096v with temps of around 40C idle and 65C at MAX load using a 240mm AIO. If I were to switch to a SFF case I would either need to switch to a 120mm rad or a low-profile air cooler (such as an NH-L9a or CRYORIG C7) due to CPU clearance and general space availability. I was hoping to get some guidance on which you guys think would be the best route as to not cook my CPU, any advice/help would be appreciated