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I'm starting this new thread in the hopes to find a solution to my current problem, it is related to the AMD Prism cooler and the sync of colors with other RGB components in my setup. so lets begin from the first day, End of November of last year, I got the first batch of pieces for my computer, ram, cpu, motherboard, psu, M.2 drives, mouse. and in February this year, I brought the rest of the hardware I needed for the upgrade of my computer, which was video card, monitor, chair and more ram. I kept the rest of the hardware I had, which was keyboard, screens, video card, ssd drives, case, headset, etc. So my new rig had at that time the following Hardware. Asus ROG Strix x570-e gaming wifi AMD Ryzen 7 3700x 8-Core processor (AM4) AMD Wraith Prism cpu cooler 4 x 8GB Corsair DDR4 Vengance LPX 3200 (2 x 16Gb kits) Asus ROG Strix AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT 8GB 2 x 1TB Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus M.2 drives (main OS, 2ndary Games) EVGA B5 Series 850w PSU Bronze Asus TUF monitor VG32VQ1B 32 inches curved as main screen, an old samsung syncMaster SA300 as 2ndary and another of the same as 3rd screen (yes 3 screens) Logitech G502 Hero gaming mouse 2 old SSD PNY 250Gb each in a raid0 array (464GB usable) super Old, Thermaltake fulltower case and a racing chair (Respawn 110 v1 RSP-110-WHT) as to software, Windoze 11 64 bits, and some not too tough games, as I am not really that much of a gamer. at first everything went great, motherboard, cooler and video card were in perfect sync, so there was no problem, but It kept bugging me that I couldn't control the ring nor the logo colors, yet I didnt do much about it, it was kind of "oh well its out of my hands" thought so although it bugged me a bit, I just let it be. About 5 weeks ago, a friend told me "yo bro, get the cooler master prism software, and connect the cooler through the USB cable instead of the rgb one and you'll be able to customize your cooler's colors and shit" and as curious as I was, that almost forgotten thought about the nagging "bothersome thing" that was at the very back of my head, it just popped up and screamed at me "GO FOR IT AND DO EEEEEET". so I did it, powered off the pc ,plugged the usb cable into the cpu (keep in mind that I left the rgb cable on too, which could have been bad who knows, the cpu cooler works and the colors works its just abusively out of sync), booted back into windoze, installed the coolermaster app, and watched some youtube vids on how to get things with nice effects and crap by controlling the speeds of the RGB color leds, and for a time, it was good, amazing even I was so happy with the newfound control Ihad over my cpu cooler, that I didnt even bother with the "out of syncness" that was present, I just enjoyed the "still fins effect" that I could achieve by switching some colors to be slower or faster, on some transitions, so the "fan" appeared as if it rotated absurdly slow, because you could see the shape of each fin, so it was cool, beautiful and entertaining to watch for a while, until well it was not, that "out of syncness" struck me bad, so I went back into the app, hit "reset to default" and "it seemed as if it was reset to default (ring and logo went back to how they were, etc), powered off the pc, removed the USB cable, and booted back in, launched the armoury crate and asked it to sync the 3 components (motherboard, video card and cpu cooler), and here it is, absurdly out of sync. so my question is, does someone, by some chance of life, has the very very default settings on EVERY SETTING of the prysm? be it in a file loadable by the cooler master app, or a screenshot or noted it down, so I can attempt to "manually" set it to how it is supposed to be, so it goes back to be in sync with the rest of the hardware? because now, no matter what I do, it just wont sync up with the rest of the hardware. any and all help is very highly appreciated and welcome. this is a youtube video of how it was "in sync" with even the desktop through the aura desktop thingy.

Hello everyone! I've built my first PC recently, but there's one 'but' - my case is not closing due to the small Motherboard B550M-PLUS (WI-FI) and the fact that my RAM is a bit high (If I understood correctly), so one of the sides of Assassin III is right on one of the RAMs, and I can't close the case due to this. (It sticks out for around 1 centimeter. So, I've decided to buy a new case - XPG Battle Cruiser case, it's 2 centimeters wider than the current case, and since currently it sticks out for 1 centimeter, it should be enough to close the case. I have a few questions for professionals here: Am I right? Will it close? Thanks everyone in advance! It's my first build, I messed up a bit, but we're just starting That's how the case looks - https://prnt.sc/2O5O2zBHd9dS That's the RAM - https://prnt.sc/9RUFrPCapGAb (mine is white tho) My current case if 205mm wide The new I want - 225mm (+2 cm)

I'm thinking of running an overclocked amd system that has 5950x and 6900xt and since my room is relatively warm I was looking at running a soft-tube configuration linked to a chiller. I am fully aware of the risks of running a chiller and low temps and condensation etc. Now my question is whether a chiller like Vevro CW5200 would be ok or I should go for a more specialized Alphacool Eiszeit 2000 would be a better choice? Thanks in advance.

Can ı connect a PWM cpu fan and 4 non PWM case fans to this motherboard without needing any converting cables.The cpu fan will be ID cooling se 224xt with the second fan added

I have the a320m-k motherboard and rtx 3060ti which is a heavy gpu and I'm planning on buying the id cooling see 224xt as CPU cooler would the weight of these two cause any issues?Bending the Mobo etc.The only times i move my case is when i need to get it cleaned or repaired

I have gotten a Ryzen 9 5900x recently and I have bought the Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 thinking it was going to be plenty to keep my CPU cool. I was unfortunately wrong. With PBO enabled, -10 offset on the curve,, every fan at 100% and running tests I instantly hit 90c. I currently have it set to stock speeds and not to go any higher until I get me a better cooler. I am looking for a good cooler that offers great performance before I look at looks of it. I want a cooler where I have plenty of headroom for PBO boosting it to its max and more headroom where I don't have to worry about temps being an issue. I have heard mixed stories of others saying that this cooler is beyond good for it and others saying the same cooler causes thermal throttling. If possible I would like some real world examples of the cooler in action. I don't want to be a test dummy with coolers to see which one performs the best.

Should I get a better cooler or case? It's on the carpet, but it's held off of by a pc holder with wheels. GPU never goes below 59 C even while idle. While gaming, it's always at 80 C. Sometimes goes above but not for long like 1 minute. While idle CPU is low 30s. But while gaming goes to 60 to 70. Some games like apex, rainbow 6 siege never goes below 75. 20% of the time it is in the 80s for those games. Also while starting the game up and for 2% of the time it spikes up to high 90 C and over 100 C. But never for more than 1 to 10 sec. Are these good temps? Most websites I look at say 50 to 60 to 70 good and bad if in the 80s. Lastly, it should never be in 90s or 100s. It can damage at 100. Again, in one gaming session it might hit 100 3 to 5 times and no longer than 5 sec. It is a 12 gen Intel Core and a 3080, so maybe normal.... Ask if more pics needed. Maybe put cooler on wrong or thermal paste on wrong.

So long story short, i have this old PC i have been using before i buy a new one. I've had a problem recently that really irritates me and that's that the thermal paste (i use toothpaste ; ran out of actual thermal paste) is not spread evenly across the cpu resulting in bad temps. Reallly! Im talking anywhere from 70c all the way to 90c just in the bios!!! I would just chuck this pc in the garbage (since it, technically belongs there) but i still want to finish HL2 and i still use it for some things. I have attached pictures of my problem as well, and if anyone needs any extra information and/or pictures, i will be more than willing to answer. Also if i said something wrong feel free to correct me, im not that much advanced in PC's. Thanks. (by the way, i have been experiencing this problem when using actual thermal paste as well)

Hi Team, I have an Intel i9 10850K Processor paired with a TUF GAMING Z590-PLUS WIFI motherboard. I need a cooling solution for it. I am thinking of going with MSI MAG 360R AIO. But recently I had seen that there are lot of problems with this AIO. My question is 1. Are all AIO's problematic after certain time? if not, looking for suggestions. 2. Which one is good Liquid Cooled or Air Cooled? if air cooled is good, need suggestions on that as well? Thanks, Harshavardhan

Deciding on the cooler is hard, what's even harder when there's not much content online on what your looking for. I am looking to get a AIO CPU cooler and I have been recommended the Corsair H150i iCUE elite capilex. I can't find any good comparisons on how this cooler performs against the EK 360 Elite D-RGB or the Arctic freezer II 360. I have heard ML fans on the Corsair are loud. Basically I'm looking to cool a i7 - 12700K under normal workloads (gaming and ANSYS )

So about 5 months ago i build my pc with Ryzen 5 5600g. Using the stock cooler, temperature was ok but recently heat going up so thinking about getting an aftermarket cooler. Now Gammaxx 400pro was in my mindd but the new ak400 build is pretty impressive. So any suggestions which 1 should i go for?

Hey, might be a stupid question but i noticed that my cpu is running hotter than usual. i noticed that i had a virus so i ran a antivirus. the virus was suspected as a crypto miner.restarted and ran it again and it seemed like it was removed. i noticed that it was still running hot and the one core is almost 16 degrees hotter than the other cores is this normal? why is it putting so much load on that one core? something ive turned off in bios by accident multithread or something? EDIT: the programs i had open was only chrome

So I have gotten myself into a little bit of an issue. I had previously installed a 120mm Lepa AIO water cooler into my computer for my CPU. Well the pump just died yesterday in the cooler and I wanted to proceed with taking it off to replace it with a new cooler. I took the AIO off, it went fine up until then. I went to try and unscrew the plastic bits on the front of my motherboard and they won’t come off. I have tried to push the pins through the back of my board to the front and, nothing. I have tried to hold the pins in the back to be able to twist off the plastic knobs in the front, to no success. I guess the plastic pieces might be cross threaded? No idea. But what would my solution to this be? Should I just dremel the plastic pieces off? I really do not know what to do at this point. About the missing pin in the backplate, when I was taking the cooler off it just fell off. Guess I got lucky.

Hey LTT community unfortunately this post comes with the bearing bad news. My Strix 1080 cooler fans are no longer spinning under any circumstances. I'm hoping some of you might be able to help. I have tried many things in order to revive the cooler and so far nothing has worked. Multiple DDU uninstalls Replaced all fans Using multiple monitoring software and trying to force the fans to spin Checked all cables I could think of While I know that buying a new GPU is possible I don't want / really need to get a new one yet because of the games I play and how often I have time to play them. If you can think of anything else to try before some, relatively, more drastic options please let me know. Two other options that I have found, one from a LTT video, seem the most viable to me now. Using zip ties to secure two 120mm fans to the cooler using the Linus demonstrated method (ironic that he is doing it to a 10 series card with the same cooler). Does anyone know the longevity/ risk Buying an aftermarket cooler, the only option I can find being https://www.newegg.com/black-raijintek-0r100022/p/2T3-0007-00004 , but I'm worried about fitment and cooling for the ram/vrm's/ Please let me know of any suggestions or information you have. Thanks.

Hi, A week ago I was gaming and wanted to show my friend my specs. I was currently working in Power BI with Chrome, MS Teams and Discord open. When I checked my CPU temperature, it was close to reaching 100°C. This obviously got me pretty concerned as my PC should be performing pretty well and this came pretty much out of nowhere. Since then I seeked advice with friends and tried a bunch of fixes, but nothing seems to be working as of now. When I launch various apps, such as game launchers (Steam, Battlenet and even small apps) my PC freezes. This does not happen everytime but often. Sometimes it also just freezes randomly while watching Netflix, Youtube or Twitch. When it freezes, my PC makes a very weird noice, almost like a car breaking or a scratching sound, it's not very loud but I can hear it. Then everything just freezes (except sound) and goes back to normal anywhere between 2-10 seconds. I used to be able to run Minecraft with shaders, but I just started the game my CPU temps went up in the air. I was using a modpack with 130 something mods and render distance at 12. This never used to be an issue and my pc never had trouble performing well with this. What I have tried: Lowering my maximal processor usage in the power plan settings. Cleaning my system - CPU Cooler, Case Fans, using my compressed air can to remove dust, using non-static wipes to clear more dust etc. Taking my CPU Cooler off, reapplying thermal paste and putting my cooler back on. Installing new fans to my case. (Excluding CPU Cooler) Running a BIOS fan speed test, to optimize my speeds. Reinstalling GPU drivers. Other notes: Nothing is overclocked PC is currently standing on the floor in a well ventilated area with plenty of space to properly get air. I attached some pictures - The picture from HWMonitor shows my idle temps and my maximum temp is from me lanching minecraft for 5 minutes. My specs are: Windows 11 Home 64-bit Intel Core i7 9700K 3.60GHz 64 GB ram - Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz ASUS PRIME Z370-P II Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070 (MSI) Aero Corsair VS Series VS650 Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO 92mm 2X Dutzo Kura 120mm 2X NZXT AER 120mm 2X 2TB Seagate HDD 500GB Samsung SSD 840 EVO 1TB Samsung SSD BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 0601, 18-01-2019

Hey! I am currently running an X99 system, about 6 years old, with an i7 5820K CPU and a Corsair h100i GTX cooler. My CPU has had high temperatures for a while now - about 50C idle. I assumed it was because of poor maintenence (I haven't cleaned it in about 2 years and it built up a lot of dust). Recently, I finally decided to clean it, and on the way I replaced the thermal paste, as I've been using the stock one that came with the cooler since I got it. After plugging it back in, the temperatures climbed really high, even higher than usual. In the bios, under very low load, it could get all the way to mid 60's C. After entering Windows, Corsair Link shows almost 80C with about 15% load. I tried different amounts of tightness with the waterblock screws, but nothing seemed to work. I decided to try applying thermal paste again, twice, and in both attempts it didn't work. I then decided to give up. When I cleaned the PC, it wasn't a very deep clean, and a lot of dust stayed between the radiator and fans. I decided to do a deeper cleaning by taking off the radiator fans and cleaning the dust between. These are pictures of the radiator after cleaning. It's not perfect because I had to stop in the middle, but it's still not bad enough to cause these problems. There is a more suspicious spot, though, with some hard material between the fins of the radiator. I cleaned it with a toothpick, but that also included some bending of the fins. However, there is no uniform bending in any part of it, so I don't see why such a small difference would matter. This is after cleaning: I also applied thermal paste again. Obviously, still high temps. Right before giving up and posting here, I gave another shot to replacing thermal paste. I looked at the pictures of the previous applications and thought that the amount may have been a little high, so I tried with significantly less. This is the final application: Note that I have pictures of all the other applications, as well as how the CPU and waterblock looked after removing it. I couldn't add it because of the size limit, but I can add it in the comments if it's needed. This last attempt was even worse, with temps climbing even faster. At this point I only have a few ideas for what could be wrong. Maybe the thermal paste quality is bad, although it was recommended everywhere I saw. Problem is that to test it I have to buy new paste. It could be that the cooler is broken, but I don't have another cooler to test it with. It could be that the CPU is dead. Actually, since I ran it for so long with high temps, maybe the parts between its heatsync and the core are broken? Maybe I need to replace the paste there? That would mean checking the warranty status of the CPU. Again, though, no way for me to test this as this is my only CPU. Any help is appreciated, so thanks in advance! If more info/pictures are required, I could provide it. PC Configuration i7 5820K CPU, at stock clock Corsair H100i GTX CPU cooler Asus Sabertooth X99 motherboard Cooler Master Mastercase Pro 5 The fan configuration is two intake in the front, one exhaust in the back, and two exshaust at the top of the case, mounted on the radiator (pushing air into it). Thermal paste is Arctic MX-4 Don't know if it matters, but all cleaning of thermal paste was done with 70% alcohol, paper towels, and cotton sticks (no fibers left as far as I could tell)

I'm somewhat new to building a PC so please forgive me. I'm upgrading my son's PC for his Birthday this weekend. I've already purchased a new CPU and RAM. I'm guessing I need to upgrade his CPU cooler too right? One thought was the Cooler Master Hyper H412R ($32.99 USD on Amazon) which someone recommended to me since it should fit in this case he has. Another recommendation was this DEEPCOOL Castle 240R AIO Liquid Cooler ($59.99 USD on Amazon). Any thoughts and/or recommendations? Attached pictures show the computer in it's current form BEFORE upgrades.

Budget (including currency): 150€ Country: Slovenia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: 3D work, games Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): CPU: I7-12700k GPU: RTX 3080 Case: Coolermaster NR200P Motherboard: ASRock Z690M-ITX RAM: 2x16GB ddr4 G.Skill Ripjaws I have bought a BeQuiet Silent loop 2 watercooler for my CPU because the website of ASRock said it was compatible with their motherboard. The thing is that it's not really. The pipes on the side of the cooler stick out into the RAM slots and I need to remove 1 stick of RAM if I want to have the cooler installed. I also cannot reverse / flip the cooler because I encounter the same problem with the aluminium shielding at the I/O. I am now currently looking for replacement and would like your opinion and recommendations.

Hi everyone, I am trying to install NH15S to the H210 case. But because the room on the top is too small, I can't fit the fan to the cooler properly. So, for anyone that fitted the fan to the cooler, how did you guys do it?

Hi i've at home a cooler master materliquid ml240l V2 and i'm stressing out about it leaking and destroying my pc really badly so i ask you , anyone has a long term experience with this cooler ? any good replacement for the same amount of price ? (i'd need to buy 2 fans if i go for air cause otherwise i would not have a balanced pressure in the case)

Hello Guys, I just assembled a new computer. Computer Specs : AMD 5600G Asus TUF GAMING A520M-PLUS Corsair 8GB X 2 DDR4 3200MHZ Corsair VS450 WD 1TB SSD LG 32inch 4K Monitor AMD Stock Cooler Windows 11 Problem 1 - Sometimes the Screen Image just enlarges(Zooms in - Things on screen get a little bigger than usual) for 5seconds and then back to normal. Problem 2 - Sometimes it hangs and i have to restart the computer. I have to tell you that many times my computer is ON for 2-3days straight,I don't switch it off.But sometimes these problems happen even if it is on for 5-6hours. Please suggest a solution. Thankyou. Faustian Empire.

Hey guys i'm trying to get a new pc and i chose a ryzen 5 5600x for my cpu and i don't want to use the stock cooler, i live in south america so stock it's al little bit complicated but i found a cooler that looks pretty good, its the cooler master 410r RGB, i can't find any reviews on YouTube or forum of how this product performs with this CPU so if you have any idea of how it goes let me know :)

I've been getting upwards of 80+ c during gaming and and torn between whether i should get a new cpu cooler or not. After about an hour of gaming the cpu itself will heat up my room making it rather uncomfortable to game during hot days. Would a better performing AIO even fix this or am i doing something wrong. A previous thread said turning PBO off would help but im just not seeing the results i want. If getting an AIO will help i've seen about 20 different ones reccomended and not sure what to go with. Here are my specs just for those wondering. CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X GPU: ASUS ROG Strix RTX 3080 10GB Gundam Edition CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Chromax RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB (2x16) 3600MHz CL16 Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 White PSU: Corsair RM850 Ive got 3 Corsair QL140 140mm fans pulling air in from the front of the case with 1 exhaust, ive added another fan above the cpu cooler ontop of the case to see if that would help with the temps by spitting out hot air but doesnt seem to be making a difference. Thanks!

I'm going to be building a nice PC and am looking at the 5800X. Does it come with a stock cooler and is it adequate?

I decided to upgrade my cpu cooler but I seem to have an issue undoing the spacers from my old cm ma410m Any suggestions are much appreciated.