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Showing results for tags 'connection'.
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It keeps happening every day, every time i start an app that uses internet (Teamspeak or Steam) and in game, my ping suddently jumps up for no reason. It's unusable. Only on idle i have a normal ping. The funny thing is that when i have a high ping in games and i do a speed test or ping test with an app or CMD the ping is minimal (ex. 300ping in game and at the same time 20 ping on speed test) . I tried to talk with my ISP and they tried to look up in their system if there was any issue, but every time they assured me that it was ok. I changed the antenna cable and the router and i still keep having the same issue every day. I'm starting to get tired of this because i LITERALLY CAN'T FIX IT! PLS HELP
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Hey Guys, I just signed up to a new ISP and the upload speed is almost double the download speed is this normal?? I am on a gigabit connection below is the speed test. EDIT: I should also mention this is over Ethernet not Wireless Thanks for any of your thoughts and comments, I just wanna make sure before i start the horrible process of talking to the Philippines to argue about it....
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So my friend kinda mess with setting, and the wifi symbol doesnt pop out. I check in device manager and its gone. Its hidden and i check it but it said error. So what do i need to do? Already update,restart and even reinstall And it doesnt use any external adapter
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Hey guys I have this very annoying issue. I have CNC machine and work station next to it. The CNC machine has its own built in computer Windows XP. The issue is that the CNC machine does not want to connect to internet so every time I wanna cut something I have to post an .nc file on a flash drive then unplug it from workstation and plug it in CNC machine and then open and send to cut. I tried several ways of direct connections with USB cables and stuff, but nothing worked. I wonder if there is some kind of USB hub where you can plug in your flash drive and plug in to two different computers at the same time and both of them to read the flash drive without any switch buttons. Or any kind of share system where I can post on 1 computer and then open in another one without extra work Hope somebody can help... Thanks in advance!
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Just wondering if anyone here used blue iris before and if so do you know how to set up the folders? Like it shows choose path and I do but do I need to make a new folder in blue iris for each of my drives? Seems like they should be able to be grouped like in DCS-100 but maybe not. Also I am have trouble with some D-Link cameras getting them to connect. Specifically a DCS-7110, DCS-5020L, DCS-503L and maybe a 935l but it's not on the network yet so idk yet but the others for sure will not connect, oddly they check out in the little test button thing but I get no signal and yes before you ask they all work and can be browser accessed. They need specific settings in the camera and the software and I am not sure what to use as sofar nothing i do works. Any help would be great! Thanks -
I F'd up. I dont know exactly what I did, or how to fix it. The secret technique of using google, and other search engines, to searh for a solution has failed me thus far. My goal is to avoid factory resetting the phone if possible. The Device: Oneplus 6 Adroid 10 Oxygen OS 10.3.5 Not Rooted The Problem: While playing with the ability to disable/forcibly stop apps and clearing un-needed application cache/storage, I seem to have broken anything related to google. Maps, Drive, Docs, Gmail, Chrome, App Store, Google Play Services, and anything with a "login with google" option, all buffer infinitely or crash. This is exclusively on my personal phone, as I can use the account perfectly on my work phone, desktop, and laptop. (All on the same network, wired/wireless.) (Cannot use the work phone as a daily driver, it is a fab phone) Some of these applications will inform me that "there was a problem communicating with google servers" (google play services), or that there is no internet connection, when there is certainly an internet connection (google maps). Attempted Solutions: Yes, I tried rebooting. After each attempted solution, rebooting is something I have done. Settings > Apps and Notifications > See All Apps > 3 Dots on the top right > Reset App Preferences > Reset Apps App preferences were confirmed to have been reset. Did not work, even after reboot. Google Play Store started working for a short time, and I updated all apps to the most recent versions. Then it stopped working after reseting app preferences. I can still access the front page of the store, but going to "My Apps and Games", or anything under the 3 bar menu in the top left, causes it to buffer infintely. Cleared Cache and storage of all google related applications. Removing/Adding google accounts: Every time I try to add or remove a google account under: Settings > Accounts > Add Account > Google (non google related accounts can be added perfectly fine) Settings > Accounts > select existing account > Remove Account It returns me to the "Accounts" menu and freezes the settings application. It magically removed my secondary and tertiary google accounts from the phone, one day after I tried to delete them. I have yet to remove my primary acccount, due to my inability to add it back. Last Ditch Effort: I am not phone person, so any advice at this point would be most appreciated. I do not want believe googles help pages, which say resetting my phone is the only option left. Help me LTT Forums. You're my only hope.
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I have a GoPro 5 Black. It has a micro HDMI output but my computer (which is where I want to connect it) has no inputs for video (as far as I know, (I built it myself a few years back) because last I checked you can't make a graphics card function as an input device). How would I go about connecting my GoPro to my computer? I think it'll have something to do with a capture card (that's all I know)? sorry if this isn't the right place to make this thread it seemed to be appropriately on topic sorta.
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hi! ive just mooved in a new appartement and the wifi is furnished with it. the issue here is that my tower cumputer do not have a wifi card so it need to be wired but i dont have acces to the router. Anyone has a solution ??
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Hii, am first time on forum so i dont know am i doing this right, but i have i question, can i use my old sony camcorder to make skype and viber calls? Model number is DCR-HC27E and i have i firewire cable and pci card and thats how i connect it to my pc. I couldnt find any driver on sony support site, but windows 10 automaticly installed some driver for pci card and sony camcorder and its recognizing it. Skype is also recognizing my sony camcorder but when i chose to use it as camera for calls nothing can be seen, just black screen. So am wandering is it posible to work like that at all??
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I have a Lenovo g580 and ThinkPad T470... Both are connected to my wifi but when I run speed tests on both of them, T470 shows around 30Mbps and g580 shows around 0.18Mbps of download and upload speeds... I've tried the test in multiple environments... Also tried rebooting but the issue remains... T470 is new and g580 is 5 years old... Should I replace the wifi chip or something?... Please help...
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So while i was trying to connect my printer to router via WPS button i pressed it too long and the whole thing resetted, it resetted so hard that i had to do the set up all over again and i did it with the correct time zone, username and password. Yet i can not connect to internet. In the WAN settmg it says your dsl connection for both adsl and vdsl is out of order.
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I have a Ethernet cable running through the attic in my house to my gaming room, and I have two devices I’d like to use at the same time, but only one cable. Would a Ethernet hub/splitter work, and if so, would the connection significantly slow down?
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Hey so I've recently been running into a bit of a Steam connection issue, probably happened since I got my new PC. So what I have here is a screenshot of my exact issue, it's a Steam network connection error. This happens a couple of times a week and I'd usually brush it off as Steam maintenance. But I know for sure it's not because I recently got fiber optic Wi-Fi (hells yeah by the way) and my connection should be top-notch. What could be causing me to consistently be losing connection to the Steam servers?
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So I swapped GPU's and am currently running of my Intel iGPU HD 4000.Weirdly enough my wire connected internet no longer works.I've tried a different cable,ports,re-installing my RAM,updated windows,went to Windows Customer Support and got a useless agent who did nothing of use,updated Intel drivers...Nothing worked.Apparently a new GPU can cause this issue but I can't fix it.
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Hello,I have a very weird problem which I haven't been able to solve since 2015, when I built my PC. For internet I use two 500 mbps powerline adapters from TP-link, and an Asus Nighthawk R7000 as router. The powerlines work fine, and the speed is outstanding compared to using regular WiFi. Now, the problem which keeps occurring is that the Ethernet connection randomly switches to 'limited' / 'unidentified network'. This usually happens about 5-30 times a day, but there are days that it doesn't happen at all too. To get it working again, I usually plug out the Ethernet cable and then plug it back in after a minute or so, but it sometimes solves the problem by itself too. The time inbetween the event from happening differs a lot; sometimes it is 3 hours, other times only 5 minutes(!). The time that it shows 'limited network' can vary strongly as well; it sometimes fixes itself in less than 10 seconds, other times I can leave it for an hour, and when I come back it is still not fixed.To make the problem even stranger, it only happens when I am browsing the internet (watching YouTube, doing work for school, etc.), or not using the internet at all (video editing), but when I'm gaming or talking to friends on Discord, I never encouter the problem. Is it possible for the problem to appear, only when there is 'too little' networking going on? I've looked into the power management of the adapter settings already, and nothing seems to affect the problem. When I'm using my laptop with the cable and powerlines, the problem doesn't take place at all, so I'm quite certain that it has something to do with my PC, and not the powerlines or cable.Help would be very appreciated at this point, as I think you can easily imagine how annoying it is having to continually pull out the cable from the back of your PC, so thanks in advance. If there is any more info you need to know, feel free to ask.vpyrofan
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There's no point making these app to start on startup cause I have to wait for the internet to connect and manually open them all.. Its annoying Specs ᴄᴘᴜ: ɪɴᴛᴇʟ® ᴄᴏʀᴇ™ ɪ?-???? ᴘsᴜ: ᴀɪɢᴏ ɢ-ᴛ??? ???ᴡ ɢᴘᴜ: ʀᴏɢ sᴛʀɪx ????ᴛɪ ?ɢʙ ɢᴅᴅʀ? ᴍᴏʙᴏ: ᴇx-ʙ???-ᴠ? ʀᴀᴍ: ?ɢʙ ᴅᴅʀ? ᴋʟᴇᴠᴠ ʙᴏʟᴛ ᴄᴀsᴇ: sᴀᴘᴘʜɪᴇʀ ᴍx???ɢ ssᴅ: ᴘᴇɴᴅʀɪᴠᴇ ssᴅ ??? ɢʙ ʀᴀᴘɪᴅ x ʜᴅᴅ: sᴇᴀɢᴀᴛᴇ ʙᴀʀʀᴀᴄᴜᴅᴀ ?ᴛʙ ᴏs: ᴡɪɴᴅᴏᴡs ?? ᴘʀᴏ
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My Sonos Play 1's are not showing in the app. When I depress the buttons as it says to do in the mobile and Mac SONOS app, there is no response whatsoever that occurs. Does anyone have a solution?
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I work for a small business as a manufacturing engineer and used to use a Dell SonicWall VPN to remote into the LAN from home when I needed to. However, Comcast "upgraded" some of the business hardware [insert derogatory ISP joke here] and changed the firewall. Now, the SonicWall VPN is broken and the new firewall is apparently super difficult to configure for it. The business owner wants us to use Splashtop Business to remote in to available workstations since its license is supposed to be cheaper, but this doesn't work well with SolidWorks/CAD software due to the 1 second lag. Also, it is difficult to impossible to transfer files from the LAN to a local machine (apparently you can do it now, but the process still doesn't look quite as nice as the VPN setup). Lastly, it requires a workstation to remote into. None of us should assume there will always be one open, especially if the company grows and they hire more people. Is there an inexpensive VPN option I can suggest to IT and management? Splashtop Business is $60 per year, per user from what I understand. https://www.sonicwall.com/en-us/home https://www.splashtop.com/business
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So a while back I had a great Sony soundbar. Unfortunately it bit the dust due to a common software brick and the price to repair it isn't worth it. It's entirely software related, so I really would like to utilize the speakers themselves in some way. To do so, I figured I'd convert the wireless subwoofer into something more versatile for a future home theater setup. It's fully enclosed and sealed off, but I had a quick question. Coming out of the enclosure are these 3 cables. The largest is a 2 wire (most likely power delivery) plug header, the smaller is a 3 wire/pin connector, and the last is a ground. I'm wondering if anyone can confirm what types of cables these are, I'm imagining they're proprietary, but I figured I'd go ahead and ask. Last resort I will probably bust the enclosure open to check the speaker's terminals, then build a new one. I would much rather prefer to keep the current enclosure if any wire splicing or adapters are available. Thanks for any info, I'm a pretty big noob when it comes to speakers. I've only really done car audio and a simple 5.1 setup at my parents.
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Exactly every 5 minutes (I can actually set a timer and know when the next one will occur), the wireless internet connection on my desktop computer slows for about 15 seconds (I haven’t measured it exactly, but it’s the same length every time). It doesn’t fully drop, just attenuates severely. While gaming I basically get “connection interrupted” and begin rubber-banding heavily, and in Discord voices begin cutting out (but I’m still connected). It’s been troubling me since I got home from college in May, but I’ve never experienced anything like it before. My desktop’s specs: Windows 8.1 64-bit RAM: 16 GB BIOS Version: 2205 Processor: Intel Core i7-4790K CPU @ 4.00GHz, 4 Cores Wireless Network Adapter: Qualcomm Atheros AR938x Wireless Network Adapter Ways I’ve attempted to solve the issue: Restarting the router; had no effect. Checking wireless adapter drivers; they were up to date Testing other devices; the issue happens concurrently on my desktop and laptop (an HP Envy X2, Windows 10, 64-bit), but my brother’s laptop (a Digital Storm custom build also running Windows 10, also on the house’s wireless connection) is completely unaffected. There are no apparent differences or similarities between the three computers that would explain this. -
android [HELP]Bluetooth problems with 4 different android phones
Defloc posted a topic in Troubleshooting
So I'm trying to move away from the iphone due to their software bottlenecking with time, here are the phones I've had and what I've tested on each along with my equipment info. Here's the problem: On my pioneer stereo the bluetooth connects just fine on all phones, plays crisp and clear, but every ~8 minutes the audio with cut out but the phone stays connected and the song is still "playing". It cuts out for .5-1.5 seconds and resumes playing at the current time (ex: song cuts out at 1:00, song keeps playing with no audio, sound returns at 1:015, skipping a bar or so of music). On my sony stereo the audio doesnt cut out as much as it just does a quick noticable crackle more frequently than the pioneer problem. Small bluetooth speaker did the same thing as the sony stereo On kenwood stereos i found the audio to do multiple fast forwards as if the phone was lacking behind the actual time and catching itself up. (Only tested with both pixel 2 devices). Things I did so far: Pixel 2: Cleared bluetooth cache and data Cleared stereo bluetooth data Restarted both stereo and phone and re paired Reset phone to factory Ran phone in safe mode Used Google music/default hdd music/blackplayer app/YouTube Tested bluetooth on 4 pioneer headunits, 2 kenwood headunits, 1 sony head unit Got a replacement phone and did all the tests again Galaxy S9: Tested on 1 pioneer/1 sony stereo Cleared cache and data Restarted stereo and phone and re paired Used google music/default hdd/blackplayer app/YouTube Huawei Mate 10 Pro: Phone sounded like shit over bluetooth didnt test long enough before returning it LG LV35 ThinQ: Playing music through normal phone speaker Clearing cache and data Restart stereo and phone and re pair Used google music/blackplayer app/YouTube Stereos I own: Pioneer DEH-X8600BS Sony MEX-XB100BT Used 3 other pioneers and 2 kenwoods and 1 bluetooth speaker that I dont have the names for. I don't know what else to do so maybe you guys can give me a solution or more troubleshooting steps. I really don't want to go back to iphone. But that is the only phone that hasn't given me a single hiccup in bluetooth connection for years. I'm a car audio enthusiast with 11,000 watts rms in my car so its pretty shitty/aggravating to be playing music with that kind of power and it turning off and on intermittently, causing you not to be able to turn it up to enjoy it due to fear of blowing speakers. Attached video link https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PcpjyzPIHrrm08b0rRt4uw3FYlWQg5ud -
Hello and thank you in advance for helping.I bought a 25ft HDMI cable for my pc in order to connect it to my TV. I already have an existing dual monitor setup and had this PC connected to the same TV in the past. I tried connecting the TV to my laptop first to see if it was a faulty wire, but it worked fine, the display mirrored my laptop with no issue. When I connect to my PC it doesn't. I tried the two different HDMI ports on my GTX 1060 6GB GPU and neither one worked. I then shut off my PC and disconnected my two other displays and left my TV plugged in. When it was starting up it worked! My BIOS info showed and the regular boot showed on my TV, as soon as the windows 10 lock screen would pop up though, the TV said no signal again! It's infuriating! Windows says it is connected fine and my the TV's audio is even an option for sound, but the TV doesn't display it. I tried erasing and redownloading all NVIDIA drivers and nothing! I don't know what else to do. I believe it's the fault of the TV, but it worked no issue with my laptop, so is it my computer?Please Help!My TV is a "Vizio E43-E2"
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Hi LTT, I'm building a PC for a friend, and I was curious what the cheapest AM4 motherboard with an addressable RGB header would be. Does anyone know? I want to use it with the Phanteks P350X.
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I have a point to point connection between may gaming rig and server. Rig is Win 10 Server is Ubuntu LTS. I have a 10g card in my server and my onboard 10gb for my rig. The connection is being use you transferring to the server. It starts out great 700MB/s but half way through the transfer speed drops to 4.50MB/s. I have change hundreds of setting and more. I don't know what to do it seems like a offload setting or power setting is a problem(but I have them all off).
