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Showing results for tags 'confused'.
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Basically, I'm wondering how micro parts are smaller and cheaper. Do they have less power? Are they just a lower quality? Can they somehow do less then normal parts? Are they lacking something? Etc.
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I'm shopping for a new laser printer for our bike shop. The one we have works fine with exception of networking issues which i think are likely due to age as its about 5 years old. Our newer shop computers are on 8.1 and the after about a week of being networked the non hardwired computers will all become unable to print and start asking for drivers. Installing new drivers doesn't help. I'm assuming updating windows doesn't agree with this old dell laser printer any more Any way i went onto newegg and damn, so many options. Obviously we'll be keeping it for a while and i would prefer color if i can(as long as it doesn't burn trough color toner instead of telling me it's out of black). There appears to be all sorts of prices and options and i don't know necessarily how expensive of one i should buy for reliability, toner availability, and of course functionality. Unfortunately i'm fairly ignorant to printers and printer tech.
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Ok so I want to upgrade my mobo in my computer so I can run sli with my gtx 760s. The thing is all the mobos from asus for fm2+ have a black and yellow scheme going and I am doing a black and red colour scheme... Also I only want to use ASUS for motherboards. What should I do??? Can red leds some what hide the yellow parts of the motherboard??? or should I spend roughly $600 and upgrade my a10 7700k to something like an i5 4690 and get a maximus IV motherboard???? PLEASE HELP AS I REALLY WANT MY COMPONENTS TO LOOK GOOD TOGETHER AS I DO HAVE A WINDOW
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Hello! So, I am slightly confused, My hard-drive and memory usage are going crazy even when in idle. Also, my cpu goes into about 14% load in idle when it is usually 1-2%. Do any of you know what is going on? thanks! (ps: my temps are fine)
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Hi guys, My company has a server running on Linux SUSE 11 (something or other) in RAID 5 with 4 x 1TB drives. One of them failed and we replaced it with a new one. However, the guy who set up this server is gone now and we are lost on how to rebuild the array. It's prompted us with something regarding "repair the partition?" Very vague, I know, but I'm kind of completely lost on how to fix this. Any help is appreciated. We have a backup server running as the primary one atm, but it's set in "read only" so no one can mess with it. Any help is appreciated, and this is a sort of high priority thing. Thanks, Vitalius
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So I am think of buying a new monitor. My parents said they will pay for part of it for my birthday; however, I have some issues. I'm only running a 7970 (overclocked, not GHZ) and the monitor I was recommended by this forum is a 1440p one (http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=558_1213&products_id=21516). Looking at reviews, I would need another GPU, a new motherboard (current one doesn't support dual GPU's as far as I know) and a monitor but I don't have enough money for that. I could, however buy a new GPU and motherboard BUT my motherboard choice is scarce as it has to be 1155 (in AUS), and also that doesn't satisfy my original aim, and it would take probably another year to save up for a monitor again. My current one is pretty shit but I don't know if theres any point in investing in a new one if my GPU can't handle it. My main aim is gaming, so achieving 60FPS is kinda a big thing. Any ideas? Should I just wait another year or so and get it all at once? I really cant afford a CPU upgrade ATM. Heres the mobo and GPU im looking at to. http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_1183&products_id=21710 http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1559&products_id=25328
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Hi everyone, I'm looking at building a mini-ITX gaming rig (see this post here) and will probably be going with an i5 4440 or 4570 with an H87 motherboard, at this stage probably an MSI H87I but I have a question about RAM. At the moment, I can get 2x4GB G.Skill Ares RAM in either 1600, 1866 or 2133mhz versions for the same price of AU$105. Although my embedded PCPartPicker build has the 1866 selected, I am thinking of going with either the 1600 or 2133 simply because they're a red-orange colour, rather than blue and I've changed my mind about what colours I want . However, I am a bit confused about how RAM speeds work on H87 motherboards. Firstly, I understand that all non-Z Intel motherboards have a maximum supported RAM speed of 1600mhz. However, they also often support XMP, which I don't understand because I thought that was only to allow the RAM to run at speeds higher than 1600mhz. Does this mean it's not "supported" but "can be done"? Or is there something else about XMP which it is used for in this scenario... Also, at the moment I am thinking of buying the 2133 anyway because then if I upgrade to a Z-motherboard in the future I can utilise the higher speeds (may as well - seeing as its the same price) however I know that this RAM also has higher CAS latency (11 for the 2133 vs 9 for the 1866 and 1600). I think though that if I have to run the RAM at 1600 due to using the H-chip, the CAS latency will also drop, but is this the case? Also, if it won't, how much of a difference would it make having the "actual" 1600 RAM running with CAS 9 vs having the 2133 RAM running at 1600 with CAS 11? For reference, here are the three RAM kits I'm talking about: 1600mhz: G.Skill Ares F3-1600C9D-8GAO 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1866mhz: G.Skill Ares F3-1866C9D-8GAB 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 2133mhz: G.Skill Ares F3-2133C11D-8GAO 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 Hopefully you can answer my questions -
Hello all, I'm having a bit of an issue... (obviously based on the sub-forum I posted in) I had to undo my overclock, due to changing some components, and decided to redo it today. So, I went in, following the same guide as before, and changed everything back (with the CPU under what I had done before, 4.4 instead of 4.5) I hit save and start. The computer came back on, but the screen didn't... So, I restarted. I got the screen on, but then was greeted with this, *Sorry for the image, the HTC One early versions have a messed up camera* I restarted a few times, with no luck getting past. So, I then went into the BIOS The first time I went into the BIOS I had major issues. The screen lagged on images(Like when you used to move the window around on windows when it was having issues, and it dragged around, leaving the old one behind every few seconds) Freaked out, I reset again. Let it try to go through to OS, no luck, same message as before. I went to the BIOS again, and reset to defaults, and I'm in, with no issues...? What happened? Will it happen again? Fixable? I've had this overclock before, with no issues... My BIOS is the 2104 update of it, my specs are in my sig (minus the overclock), If you need any other info, let me know.
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Just noticed that this is quite long. You should get the main Idea if skimmed So I am so confused on ISPs in Canada. I am in the States and moving to Canada (Calgary,AB) fairly soon. In the States I can pick between Fast crap and Slow Crap. I have checked out several ISPs and see I have well more options but then I noticed the small print with download limits etc.. Which made me kinda iffy then I checked others and they all had it. I am an extreme downloader downloading lots daily. If I do happen to go over what would happen am I shut off does my Bill increase? I am not sure US has that they probably do they might just be better at Hiding it. I am also wondering what ISPs are more "server" friendly. I have a small gaming server I have setup for Minecraft Ventrillo several other games as well maybe 30 so users at a time on them all just a few friends Co-Workers etc. Max was 43 and will probably increase once I do get to Canada as my Contacts expand. I planned getting Fiber as soon as I get out here from Shaw but have not heard much about them... Any Help would be great Thanks a Metric Butt D&D
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I just got all of my PC together BUT WHERE ARE THE SATA CABLES?! Like the one to mobo. I can't find them. Where are they included from? My hard drive and optical drive are just wrapped when I bought them.
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Im looking to build a new pc and am wondering what are the ways that I can pass true 5.1 surround sound from games,music,movie ect. From what Ive looked at optical is a no go as its only virtual so is HDMI the only way to go. Also do you need a dedicated sound card to get 5.1 or can it just go through any graphic card? Any help is appreciated
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I am looking to build my first pc (and really excited in doing it , been playing consoles basically my whole life) and have decided on the following: LGA1150 3 Ghz 4-Core AMD r7 260 (nearly decided on buying a r9 270x) or GTX 660 upwards 4 GB Ram LGA 1150 ATX Motherboard (PCI-E 16x 3.0, USB 3.0) Optical Sound (Motherboard,Graphic Card or Soundcard) DVD Writer micro ATX Case (USB 3.0) 1TB HDD + 120GB SSD WiFi Card About 4 case fans Now my problem is everytime i go to a power calculator and it keeps saying 700,800w and i dont know wheter to beleive this or not and now im confused on what wattage psu i need >.< Any help would be very grateful
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Hi guys, I have a .dts Digital Image file. After some googling, I have found it is a special medical imaging file type that is used for images usually attained through Radiology. That is from http://filext.com/file-extension/DTS Now, a friend has said file and they need to print said image, but I cannot find any way to do so. Any help is appreciated. Does anyone know if maybe Photoshop/GIMP will recognize it and be able to convert it? I do not have the file on hand to test it out, otherwise I would. Thanks, Vitalius -
Hi, I recently built a new PC and have been having troubles with the screen flickering (mainly when I'm playing games, very rarely when on the desktop). By Flickering, I mean the screen shifts up and down very quickly. It doesn't seem to be anything serious, but it is fairly irritating. At first, I thought it was my Graphics Card, so I sent that back and got a replacement, sadly to no avail. I was certain that was the issue, but now it's doing it with the new Card and I have no idea what else could be causing it (Could it be Software related? Could outdated drivers cause this sort of issue?). Any help would be much appreciated, as I'm stuck for ideas. My build is: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/1ZKI7 Thanks!
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Hello I am in the market for a new/ better wireless router and would welcome some guidance as I am a little confused. I currently have a linksys cisco wireless 160n router that I purchased at least 4 years ago. It is starting to have problems and drops connection and reappears randomly. I am taking this as a sign that it's time for a change. I am also running into a problem with the router seemingly not being able to keep up with all the traffic I throw at it( say gaming on 2 pcs while streaming netflix hd on 2 tvs) but that might be my imagination and before anyone suggests it is my internet bottlenecking with that much going on I say with 70mb down and 10mb up I shouldn't have a problem . I will list the devices I need to connect daily below. I live in a duplex on the top floor and my brother lives in the basement apartment. There is just one apartment between us. The router is placed in my living room next to my pc and the modem. My brothers gaming rig is situated directly bellow me with just the one level separating us. He uses a dlink wireless N USB dongle to connect to the router and gets relatively good signal most of the time when the router isn't acting up but when he tries to connect other devices from rooms further back in the apartment he loses signal altogether. We also don't get wifi in our backyard which is not essential but would be nice . The backyard being 2 floors down and maybe 50 feet out from the router is a bit farther than my brothers back bedroom but with less structure to interfere. We live in a dense area with neighbouring building attached on either side. Scans with wifi analyzer on my Note 3 show a lot of crowding on channels 1 to 12 but nothing on the higher channels which I believe are the ones for wireless AC but might be mistaken.. Since he is gaming on his pc latency is a big concern and I would like to try and maximize the performance I can get for his connection to his pc. I know one option would be to run an Ethernet down to his apartment and set up an access point there to cover all of his place.That still leaves me needing to buy a new router to replace my failing one and I don't particularly want to pass a cable down to him if I can avoid it. Also I am not convinced that that would give him the best connection for his gaming rig as it will still be wireless to his pc unless I buy an actual router for his apartment and connect it to mine by Ethernet but that means buying 2 routers. I would like to spend no more than $350.00 for everything, less would be great if it gives me as good results.. The best setup I have been able to come up with is this ASUS Wireless AC router http://products.ncix.com/detail/asus-rt-ac68u-ac1900-dual-band-turboqam-2c-90144.htm And this wireless AC PCI card that Linus did a review for http://products.ncix.com/detail/asus-pce-ac68-dual-band-802-11ac-a6-91046.htm Will this setup be enough that my brother should be able to connect in the back part of his apartment I am assuming that this router will offer better signal strength than my current one. Is wireless AC the way to go. I heard Linus say in the last WAN show that wirless ac might be fast but that doesn't always translate into the best latency. Unfortunately I dont think he followed that up with a suggestion as to what is better.. I was hoping you guys could help me determine that. Thanks for any help you guys can provide, I am afraid to drop 300 plus dollars on bloody networking equipment and not solve anything. And sorry for the novel Devices connected by Ethernet 1. My Gaming rig 2. My HTPC 3. PS3 Devices connecting by wifi My brothers gaming rig Galaxy Note 3 ( wireless AC capable) 3 other smart phones that are N capable 2 Laptops ( N capable) 3 Tablets (not sure) 1 smart tv (not sure)
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hey guys i want to buy a new router but confused between n150 & n300 what this means?? my usage scenario is browsing net n downloading stuff. i use my 2-3 phone and 1 laptop n my PC and is any difference between range. and what is the range of these routers????? some models i have selected see below: http://www.flipkart.com/cisco-linksys-e900-wireless-n300-router/p/itmd9tnc9enstruf?pid=RTRD9TC4N7HWBFPF&srno=b_7&ref=605dfad2-81ec-4e79-a96a-91176a39a5cf http://www.flipkart.com/asus-rt-n12-lx-300mbps-wireless-router/p/itmd6354btvnrxtz?pid=RTRD6352VX7RZSWG&srno=b_22&ref=b29263be-82fc-4020-a107-9a6706805792 http://www.flipkart.com/netgear-n150-wireless-wnr1000-router/p/itmdffysmfczfeft?pid=RTRDFFYGFYB6AHAQ&srno=b_30&ref=b29263be-82fc-4020-a107-9a6706805792 http://www.flipkart.com/netgear-wnr2000-n300-wireless-without-modem-router/p/itmdz7hnmg4z3v6b?pid=RTRDZ7HG5NQXHHFH&srno=b_24&ref=3f46e104-0d71-43ac-973e-c2aef20ae1e3 http://www.flipkart.com/netgear-n300-wireless-router-jwnr2000/p/itmdffyskyzfsfjn?pid=RTRDFFYGHARTZXKM&srno=b_19&ref=1d1dd92c-8e40-4d43-a256-71a6ec83afd4 http://www.flipkart.com/netgear-jnr1010-n150-wireless-router/p/itmdekmq26udbjdt?pid=RTRDEKJVHZHPHHMM&srno=b_4&ref=60375de3-b7d1-492c-8eed-53c05ce35276
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Hello All! I am pretty new to PCs, I kind of got the itch when I tried to run Autodesk Inventor on my Best Buy bought premade HP desk top. (AMD Phenom II X4 820) It kind of worked a bit for a while, until I did a texture update and then Autodesk would run it into the ground. So a buddy of mine who is more knowledgeable about PCs came over and opened my eyes to CPUZ and GPUZ. With those we found my onboard graphics were reaching 120 Degrees C!!! So I went to Micro Center (my first time there too) and picked up a Zotac GTX-570 and a cheap refurbished Seasonic 500w power supply. Problem solved. That simple experience opened my eyes. Now I have spend the last 6 months+ slowly learning and planning a build for myself. This gets a bit addicting. So if I ask stupid questions please forgive me and chalk it up to my noobness.
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Hi guys. We bought this CPU. Which apparently doesn't come with a heatsink. We bought this heatsink. Which came with no mounting bracket but doesn't need one apparently. The CPU is a Socket G34 Opteron 6000 series one. The Heatsink's specifications says "Socket Type: Socket G34" & "CPU Support: Opteron Processor 6000 Series" However, it doesn't fit. At all. I'm confused. So confused. Picture example: The black brackets around the CPU came with the Motherboard. The heatsink is all that was in the package. The CPU was all that was in the package. I tried removing the black brackets, but the screws on the heatsink are about 3mm off on both sides (the heatsink isn't long enough), so I can't screw it in that way. What voodoo magic is necessary to make this work? The only potential problem I see is that the Socket type it mentions is Socket G34 (LGA1944), which ... confuses me even more. What does that mean? Is Intel's socket G34 different from AMD's socket G34? Why are they then called the same socket? That would irritate me, to no end. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Vitalius.
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Hello everyone! I build my second PC a week ago in the Node 304 and it's the first time using an AIO watercooler, specifically the Corsair H90. I noticed a weird, it's hard to describe honestly, kind of a slight buzzing noise in the pump/radiator/motherboard/fan area, and after some in-depth inspection, it seems to be the radiator thats making this strange noise. At first I thought it was all ok, just one of the downfalls of watercooling, but it has started to bother me lately and I just wanted to be sure if this is normal for an AIO watercooler. So, the obvious question: Is it normal for a radiator on a H90 to make a slight buzzing noise? Just to make sure, it isn't that loud, but it does stand out, even if all the fans are on 12V. I could do a quick recording, but then I would have to actually do something, and I'm lazy. But if this really isn't enough info, I'll make one. All help is very much appreciated! -
Greetings, I recently became very interested in purchasing an android tablet that offers convertible functionality. My coworker has the Asus Transformer Pad Infinity (TF700T), and he loves it. After doing some research, I found that Asus had refreshed that tablet with the TF701T. This left me very confused, because the new tablet offers some very compelling improvements over the other, like the higher res screen and Tegra 4 processor. However, it also has some downgrades. I watched a review on YouTube that said the new tablet has a plastic back, while the original had a metal one. Also, I found a chart that says both cameras were downgraded on the newer tablet. It also does not feature a rear flash. I am really uncertain at this point, and I welcome anybody who can shed some light on this topic for me as I don't know much about tablets. Should I be looking at a completely different tablet? Thanks! Links: TF700T: http://amzn.to/18SAuC9 TF701T: http://amzn.to/1bMiYzF Sources: http://bit.ly/IRdslE
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So basically the title. I can't seem to figure out what iGPU it is. On the Intel ark site it just says Intel HD Graphics. Not like 4600 or anything. How many cores does it have? I am so confused by this thing...
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I have a 650w power supply and i would like a r9 280x some websites say my power supply can power it and some cant. I dont plan on overclocking it or the cpu. so can my power supply handle it
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Ok here's the deal. I just built a new system in an N600 using a Gigabyte GA-F2A88X-DH3 Motherboard and an A10-7850K. On the stock cooler, The UEFI BIOS showed CPU Temp at 60 C. Needless to say, I reseated and re-applied thermal paste several times to no avail. I have since take the stock cooler off and replaced it with the stock cooler from my FX-8320 and it now shows 50 C in BIOS. Feeling a bit more comfortable, I loaded Windows and started up HWmonitor and AMD Overdrive to see what I could find. This is what HWmonitor showed at idle: I then Stress Tested it for 10 minutes using Prime95 and got this on HWMonitor Totally confused I checked what AMD Overdrive was showing and saw this I tried a few other programs to see if there was any real similarites between the readings but Gigabyte's EasyTune was 30 C at idle and 50 C under load while Core Temp showed 7 C at idle and 40ish under load while in the model field it simply said "AMD Processor". Can anyone please tell me what in the world is going on? I'd love to OC this thing when I get my H100i but I can't risk it if there isn't a good way to measure the temps. -
So i'm more then just a little confused when it comes to the whole 'tulpa' thingy wingy... My close friend of my said that he is in the process of creating a tulpa and personally I have no idea what the hell he is talking about and felt rude asking him, so I came to the internet like any person would and found weird information which did really put a logical side to it, basically meaning it wasn't making any sense. So if you mind answering some questions that would be amazing! 1. What is a 'tulpa'? 2. Is it common for people to create these 'tulpas'? 3. How do you deal with something like this? 4. Does anyone have one on these forums? 5. What does is mean to have a 'tulpa'? 6. What does it feel to have like a 'tulpa' ? Also if you wish feel free to post your thoughts on this whole 'tulpa' topic Thanks for your time Smiles
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Hi all, So my all-in-one CPU water cooler 'failed' one day so I took it apart to find that there was very little liquid in it (around 30ml). I bought some new tubing and painted the radiator outer casing white and the plastic pump/water-block white also and filled up the loop with car radiator coolant (it took around 250ml) and fitted it back in. My system now looks awesome....If only it worked! So it was working fine for a while, temps: ~45C idle, ~72C load while gaming. A big improvement from before I fixed it. About a week after I have been using it in my system, i.e. last night, I decided to run prime95 and temps looked good again. I ran it over night and when I woke up I found the CPU temp was 99-100C. I don't know how long it had been like that but I switched it off ASAP. I left it cool and when I switch it back on and go into bios the CPU temp climbs from 53C upwards. I don't want to see what it hits. The pump would have run dry-ish before I re-did the loop but still seems to be running fine. I checked it before I put it back in. The outlet tube feels hot and the inlet tube feels cool so my pump must be working, and this indicates that radiator is doing it's job fairly well. So why is it not keeping my cpu cool now??? I've attached a photo of it in my system.
