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I will be using a 2600x, a 1070 ti, 16gb of RAM and a B450 tomahawk mobo. I cannot decide on RAM. I read some people have had issues with RAM compatability and XMP issues with the B450 Tomahawk. Im considering some B die GSkill but the price is so steep in the UK and stock at my supplier is restricted to TridentZ 3200 C:14 (fancy expensive RGB) and TridentZ 3000 C14. They have some other TridentZ 3000 and 3200 that are C:15 or C:16 but i do not think they are B die. They dont have any flarex in stock or id consider those. From what i can tell if i buy any of their other RAM its not going to be Bdie and thus no better than a Corsair alternative. How much importance does this really have? I want to make the most out of XFR/POB and XMP stuff so im trying to buy the correct hardware before hand. Its difficult though because im a newb, a lot of info is dated and im unsure how significant Bdie RAM will be to my computers gaming performance. Ive been considering some lpx vengeance stuff thats 3000 C:15, the smaller nature should help me fit it under my noctua cooler which is a bonus. Its CMK16GX4M2B3000C15W which im sure isnt B die, however someone i spoke to said they were running it with their 2600x and it was working fine. This could just be good luck on their part though right? Im quite confused at the moment, this RAM issue is the last thing preventing the build being built. Cant decide what to do for fear of making a mistake. Also concerned about paying a huge premium for B die and getting little to no benefit from it as im not an expert and have no experience overclocking at all, i just want to turn the auto stuff on and let it do its thing, ideally. Sorry for the wall of text. Thinking out loud and hoping someone with experience can give me clarity. Im not sure what to do and dont want to spend £100+ more for RAM that i may not need or wont benefit enough from.
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So I have an HP Omen 870-244 GTX 1070 Intel I7 7700 16gb Ram Etc. I recently built my first PC (for my wife) and for some reason her computer just feels smoother and looks so much better. I want to upgrade mine, mainly for looks because spec wise it runs good. Not sure if changing Ram to a faster Ram speed and replacing MOBO will have any benefits for the high cost of replacing mobo, ram, case, power supply. Main reason is to make it look like a custom PC. So my actual question can I use newer motherboards for my i7 7700? Something like the 370 or 390 boards. Will there be any performance benefit of replacing mobo and ram from proprietary hp mobo and ram. Thanks for anyone that may be able to help! -
My current build: Gigabyte aorus pro b450 mobo R5 2600x 32gb 3200mhz ram Zotac amp extreme 1070ti Kingston SSD 10tb ironwolf pro. I am writing this post as I currently have a budget of £700 and I can't decide on what I should do to upgrade. Should I wait and buy the Ryzen 9 when released or should I stick with my current CPU and upgrade the GPU to either a 1080ti and motherboard or go with the RTX2080. Or would getting an x470 board and a second 1070ti be a viable option also.
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Hi, My name is Matthew I need some help. I was wondering if it would be better to upgrade gpu on my current pc or build a new one. My specs are i5 3450 gt 620 8gb ddr3-1600mhz I'm thinking about upgrading to a gtx 1060 6gb for $145: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IMZTEBK/?tag=pcp0f-20 The possible new build is: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/MWJH15/saved/TFP9Jx This would be my first real gaming pc seeing my gt620 can't run anything but Minecraft or CS:GO also maybe case suggestions because this was a prebuilt asus essentio series and the case is ugly
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I am planning to do a 1500 dolor build. I had chosen the components R5 3600x RTX 2060 super Rog b450 f 16gb ram I am confused about the case. I am stuck between NZXT H510 elite and Cooler master H500P. I know that H500P has more airflow but H510 is more pretty Please tell me which one will you choose if you were me.
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So recently I’ve been having issues where I’ll be gaming, everything’s all fine and dandy, temps are good, games run fine, then out of no where my pc will Black screen, audio will studded for 4 seconds then pc will reboot and won’t display anything, gpu fans won’t spin and I’ll have to reset bios through cmos, then everything is fine again till I start gaming? Everything is base clock and cpu is undervolted to 1.325 at 3.6ghz, and custom fan curve set to dc and smart fan mode This is a new pc and my first build, built about 2 months ago and never had this issue until about 2 days ago, it ran fine after I reset cmos once and didn’t touch any fan curves except for gpu (these cards run hot) after gaming for about 3 hrs figured all was good, set my own custom fan curve through Msi command centre and set them to smart fan mode and dc mode through bios then crashes again?! please help my specs are Cpu: ryzen 5 3600 at 1.325volts 3.6ghz mobo: b450 gaming plus max ram: gskill trident z rgb at 3200mhz Gpu: R9 390 strix (base clock and voltage) psu: Corsair 760 80+ platinum full modular storage: Sabrent rocket 256gb for boot drive and fav game (100gb left) Western digital caviar blue 1tb 7200rpm and an Asus wifi network card all drivers are up to date bios needs an update
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So I just moved, and I transported my computer in my car. It was a 6 hour drive and bumpy roads at time, but my computer still turns on. My specific issue is that my m.2 ssd cannot be be a boot option (it has windows 10), however after putting windows 10 on a HDD, by logging on the HDD I can view and access my files from my m.2. I am confused as to what solution I can do to solve this, because I don't want my m.2 to turn into a storage drive. Thanks in advance for your help. -
i am confused between these monitors.. they both are at same prices. benq one has speakers (just for emergency use) and a lot of gimmicks like auto brightness and what no! but i think that acers panel is better? idk why but it seems that it also has thinner bezzels.. idk guys plz help!!!1
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I’m gonna cut to the chase here, internet makes no sense. I have ran multiple tests for networks which have came up short. I have moved my entire setup multiple times just to plug in an ethernet cord which also doesn’t work. I have sat staring at that little dinosaur jump over freaking cacti all day. I just moved my setup to my place after it has been in storage for a while. I used to use a netgear router but unfortunately lost it (trust me I have no idea how). I want the simplest solution, AKA the one that doesn’t require me to go to BestBuy and waste 300 dollars on a new router. I’m writing this thread as a plead for help, not as an invitation to goof off in the replies. I’m not trying to come off rude, (cleche I know) but HELP ME NOW.??
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I am looking to build a new computer and I would like some help with figuring things out. I have found a mid-tower case and would like to use an ATX board. Other than that I am fairly clueless. Can anyone help?
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Hi, I finally started to buy all the components of my new PC, and now I need to choose what monitor to get. I never really bothered to look at prices/specs of the monitors, so now I'm pretty overwhelmed with the huge choice. I'm looking for a good (maybe 1440p?) monitor to use with a gtx 1070 / 1070ti / RTX 2070, with a good enough refresh rate (75+ hz) and a reasonable price. Summary: -cpu: R7 2700 -gpu: waiting RTX 2070 to decide -RAM: 16gb 3200mhz -monitor: need to decide Thank you in advance!
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i have gta v running but instead of it tuning on crossfire it uses the secound card as vram with doesntdo much for m fps i get like 56 normal fps in low areas like aroundbeaches i get 100 but its not cross fireing at all want pictures tell me -
Hello, I recently added SSD Crucial MX500 500GB to my build (as an OS drive) and ran benchmark on it. When comparing screenshot with review articles on the internet, it seems the first test is giving wrong results? Momentum cache was enabled on this SSD. Am I missing something, or is everything ok? Help.
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Ok so I just finished building my PC (no os yet) https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MARINE_TIGER/saved/trXbXL Here's the issue motherboard only has 1 CPU fan header, case has a pwm fan controller that says to plug into the CPU fan header, so I did that. CPU cooler(I believe it is the "fan" inside the pump(IDK though)) says to plug in it on CPU fan header. Looked around and found the pump fan header plugged CPU cooler into that. Did I do it right?
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@CableMod im trying to buy “CableMod AIO Sleeving Kit Series 2 for EVGA CLC / NZXT Kraken - White” and “CableMod PRO ModMesh E-Series G3 / G2 / P2 / T2 Cable Kit (Black/White)”, but I cant find them anywhere but in your online store. Is there a supply shortage? Or do the big name stores(Amazon, Newegg, etc.) just need to restock? -
Hi! After a long while I've decided its time to upgrade from my Old i3-2100 and GTX 750Ti to something better. The options in the market which I can afford is the Ryzen 5 1600 and the Intel i5 8500 and a GTX 1060 3GB with a B350 or B360 Motherboard respectively. I'm from Bangladesh and here the prices are quite steep and my build Budget is around 77,000 BDT which is US $911 at current exchange rate Prices for the CPU Ryzen 5 1600 - 15,000 BDT which is equivalent to US $177.42 Or, Intel i5 8500 - 17,200 BDT which is equivalent to US $203.44 Also, the GTX 1060 3GB is priced at 24,000 BDT which is equivalent to US $284 I'll be using the PC for Gaming, Editing in Premiere and Photoshop, a bit of Music Production and lastly watching LInus's Beautiful Face I want the PC to be a bit future proof as in an upgrade path so than i can Upgrade later on if i need to. Games I'll be playing - Watch dogs 2, GTA V, Far Cry 5, PUBG, Fortnite, Battlefield series, Forza, Dirt 4, Minesweeper (JK) etc. It will be a huge relief for me if you guys help me so that I can purchase the system soon. Thanks In Advance. PC Master Race FTW P.S- Love from Bangladesh to the PC Community :3
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Hi so i’m confused about the ram slots. I have 4 so 1 2 3 4 can i put my 2 ram stick on ram slots number 1 and 3 or 2 and 4? Can i choose either of those?
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I'm looking to build a new system and I'm trying to decide whether i should get an 8700 or 8700k. I do plan on gaming but i will be doing more video editing. which would be better. Graphics card is a 1070ti titanium.
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Greetings and Sun Salutations LTT Forum Members, My name is Joe and this is my first post here on this Forum. As the title suggests, I have an electrical/audio gremlin in my HP Pavilion DV6t Notebook. I am positive the sound chip is fried. Whenever I listen to audio through the built-in speakers or headphones, the sound spazzes out and creates this robotic EMI noise. Many times this causes the system to skip a beat and sometimes I get a blue screen of DEATH... The way I isolated this issue was when I plugged my computer into my Samsung Flat Screen TV via HDMI and the sound came through the TV instead of the computer speakers. When I did this, the issue completely stopped. My question is: Would a DAC and AMP help prevent this issue because it bypasses the sound chip altogether? In my theory, the DAC & AMP would become the primary sound processor of audio instead of the built-in sound chip. I do not want to spend money if it does not solve this issue. As many of you may already know, the sound chip on my HP Laptop is permanently soldered to the motherboard so it is not upgradeable. Thank you all for your help with this question and have a great Sunday! Cheers, Joe
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I recently purchased a Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCIe to install in my computer. Due to current living situation (College Dorm) I don't have access to ethernet connection. I plugged to card in no problem, it runs off of a standard USB power plug-in off the motherboard that I borrowed from by front panel USB (I don't use the front panel for anything anyway) to supply the power. I seated it into the slot, tried to turn it on, and it wouldn't go through the full power on process. It gets stuck in a loop of trying to start, but never actually starting, similar to trying to start a car with a very low battery. If you mash the reset button on the computer enough times and happen to time it just right, you can get it to leave its little loop and actually start up. Other than the power issue, everything else about it works great. The drivers work great and both the bluetooth and wireless functions work just as well as a wired connection. The only problem once you turn on the computer, is that you can't turn it off without sending it back into the loop. it doesn't matter if its sleep, restart, or shutdown. As soon as the power is off, the loop starts. I have to do a hard reset every time I need to shut the computer down. At first I thought it was a power supply issue, but after logging the power usage of everything in my system, I sit at about 354W at idle, and have a 500W power supply. Does anyone have any ideas for me? My last resort is going to geek squad but I really don't want to drive the hour it takes to get the computer to them. System Specs: OS - Windows 10 64-bit CPU - Intel i7 920 2.6 GHz (cooler included) Motherboard - Intel DX58SO ATX LGA1366 RAM - Mushkin Silverline 8GB 2x4 DDR3-1600 GPU - XFX Radeon RX 560 - 1024 4GB Power Supply - CoolMax 500W 80+ certified I also run 2 Western Digital 500GB HDD and 1 Westen Digital 2 TB HDD
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I conected a 550 watt antec powersuply tomy computer after cleanig in it it poweers on when i conect green and black wire and fans in case and motherboard led flickers but when i pkug it back into board green indicator light comes on but wont boot when i hit power button i tested a weak 250wat psu in pc and it turns on just noticed i mooved the power cable down and all of sudden powersuply works is it cable or power conector in psu lose and how to fix it
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Hello, I'm an SEA Tier 3 esports player with heavy experience into CSGO and other fun games. I currently own a G502 with a Speed Goliathus mousepad with a general computer setup. Since my G502 is breaking down and the wiring is breaking I'm looking for a new mouse and have settled on 2 options( the forum title ) as I need wireless and if I should also switch to another moused like the G240. Fatalz - Semi Professional Rifler and Secondary Awper. Core i5-8400 GTX 1060 OC DDR4-2666 48GB 240hz MONITOR
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First computer build and I'm stumped. I keep getting this error from my windows 10 USB drive while installing it. I have tried unplugging the ram so its only 1 stick, unplugging the GPU an using the integrated during install, tried having both hd and ssd plugged in and using them both individually and also tried every USB port. It still appears after 41% of installation. Anyome got any ideas cos im thinkin I might bite the bullet and get a store to look at it at this point.
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So a while ago i got a hard drive for school, since i chose game design to study - meaning i needed a lot of storage. I got a 1tb WD External Hard Drive and after 4 months, it stopped working. But it kind of didn't stop working. In college, i used 7 different computers in college, a fuck ton of different USB ports, and 3 different cables (one was new) and the computer's weren't recognising my hard drive. it was getting powered as indicated from the light, but it just wasn't being recognised. The same story at home... Except, when i put it through the usb port in my keyboard it works perfectly fine. And i'm baffled. I haven't dropped it, there's no sound that is coming out of the hard drive, the motor sounds like it's working but... just dont work in computers, just a Corsair keyboard...
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so I installed a new seagare barracuda 4tb onto my comp and now its not letting me install windows because its in gpt.Is there a way around this or do I have to convert it back to MDR( or somethin like that) and if so how do you do it.Thanks
