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This is my first time building PC, I complete my build and all work fine except the ram. My system is : MSI B550A-Pro Ryzen 5 5600x Rtx 3070 The ram I bought is T-Force Dark Z 2x8gb 3600 CL18-22-22-42 1.35v DDR4, model number TDZAD48G3600HC18JBK (this model number not listed on my motherboard compability list) I'am planning to update bios after installing windows10 but my pc won't boot (Dram led is on) and manual said the ram is the problem. Should I flash bios first or I need other ram stick that compatible with my system?

Hey there, I'm planning to get Asus Tuf B550M motherboard and I like HyperX Predator ram 2x8gb 3200 MHz (HX432C16PB3AK2/16), thing is I can't seem to find it on Motherboard supported page. I did manage to find HX432C16PB3K2/16 which is non-rgb black version so I wonder does this mean it will work? Also will I need Bios upgrade for this mobo if I use Ryzen 3 3100? Thanks!

Hi, everyone! I'm stuck in a bit of a situation, here. I already purchased a soon to be delivered Cooler Master MasterBox MB520 ARGB case. For my build I decided to use a Noctua NH-D15, which is already in my possession and I'd like to keep. I found the case listed in Noctua's compatibility list, so I ordered it without even checking the actual CPU cooler clearance of the case. Am I an idiot? Yes. Now I fear that the cooler will make contact with the side panel. I'd strongly prefer this not to happen. Also, using this case the only viable configuration seems to be pull-pull, 'cause finding a RAM stick that will fit under the cooler fan without the possibility to raise it is giving me nightmares. Will the Noctua fan be very close to the back exhaust fan? Thank you, if I was not clear please tell me, I'm very confused and I don't know if I should just send the case back once it gets delivered.

Hi, I have recently bought pretty much everything to build a brand new pc wich will be my first ever build. Of course, it contains some bright cool and flashy RGB light because someone told me it will boost my cpu up to 6Ghz and run 500 fps with a 1050ti !!! Jokes appart, I have some issues trying to get all my RGB (fans, ram and cpu cooler) all work together. I bought a case (Antec DF600 Flux) wich is pretty cool and comes with this microprocessor where the 5 stock fans of the case are already connected to (2 normal and 3 ARGB).The microprocessor has some ARGB and power connectors. I provided a picture of it down below. I heard you could plug your motherboard in this controller and have it control and sync everything wich looks amazing. Unfortunately for my brokeass, I bought this cheap micro ATX mobo (MSI b365m PRO-VH) wich also has a picture of it down below. So I have a few questions about the compatibility of all that wich part picker could not obviously told me about: 1- Is my motherboard compatible with this ARGB microcontroller? And if so how do I connect it? 2-My dumbass also bought a Cooler Master ML240L wich has RGB fans. Can I connect them anywhere??? 3-Can someone tell me I am not too much retarded please? Thanks for helping me!

My PC Specs are - CPU - Ryzen 5 2600 GPU - GTX 1660TI MOBO- MSI B450 PRO VDH PLUS RAM- Kingston 8gb 2400mhz ram (2x4) HDD - 1TB WD Purple @5400rpm (wdc wd10PURZ-85U8XYO) SSD - ADATA 120gb ( on which I have my windows installed) PSU - Antec 500W So, I was playing zero horizon dawn complete edition on my pc the other day and I used all high, medium and console setting but in each one of them, my games was stuttering when I used to enter a new location. For a few seconds it used to be very laggy then after some time it gets back to normal and I was getting about 55-75 fps average on the game at high settings. I think it is due to 2 factors my 8GB ram or my slow HDD which is 5400 rpm only. I am thinking about what should I upgrade because I like playing games like these and I am thinking to play cyberpunk 2077. I don't want to go through this horrible experience again but I am limited on budget and can only upgrade one component as of now either a 250GB SSD or 8GB 3000mhz ram. If you think these both components are what causing the issue please tell me which one should I upgrade to first to have the most impact because I can do only one at this time and the other will require at least 6 months to upgrade. Or if you think it is due to any other reason please let me know. I played RDR2 also but I never faced such an issue of having lag when visiting a new place in-game or even lag in the game. Please guide me thank you. I am considering these for the upgrades - RAM- Adata XPG 3000mhz Ram SSD 240GB - Crucial SSD WD Green SSD Kingston SSD

So, i used to have a Motherboard Msi Z370-A Pro which got short circuit and then i replaced it with MSI H310M And i m being using Tforce Delta RGB Dual Ram 2666mhz with z370 and h310 and had no issues but recently i bought a motherboard MSi z390-A Pro and got 2 Crucial Ballistic dual 16 gb 3000 Mhz ram with it but since those rams are not rgb i tried connecting my Tforce Ram to z390 and it gives me Dram LED Flashing I connect the ballistic one , i get the display and all fine but if i put the tforce ram no display at all ... keeps giving me DRAM led and sometimes blinking with cpu and Dram Idk i have checked the compatiblity list too no where it says tht tforce is not compatible with z390.. if anyone can help i wil be glad and also as i m thinking to connect 2 ballistic and 2 tforce so it will make it 32 gb ram ( is this a good combination or all 4 slots should be same rams ? ) Things i have done 1: Put the Ram One by One . 2: Clear Cmos 3: Updated Bios to latest 10-10-2020 version NOTE: 1:the TForce Rams still works fine in the H310M Motherboard. 2: I m Sure the Rams are fine. 3: i m sure the Motherboard Ram Slots are working too.

Budget (including currency): $400(ish) but open to suggestions Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Heavily modded minecraft, Phasmophobia, Dead By Daylight, Bioshock, Fallout 4/New Vegas (though a GPU upgrade down the line will happen for sure) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Existing parts: Core i5-4570T, EVGA GTX 760 | Planning to buy: Enermax Cyberbron 700W, Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SSD, MSI H81M-E33 MOBO, Montech ATX Mid-Tower Case, Crucial 16GB DDR3 1600, DarkFlash Shadow PWM cpu cooler. In case you're wondering about the prices I have for each of these parts: PSU: $70 SSD: $55 MOBO: $69 Case: $57 RAM: $36 Cooler: $30 Thank you for your time, Jumpsoothouse

So I bought an older PC from a friend about a year with the intent of upgrading it over time. Here's the old to updates specs with more to come: CPU: i3 6400 - - - - i7 10700k GPU: 1050ti Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2H RAM: 8Gb 2133MHz - - - 16Gb 3600Mhz Storage: 1TB HDD, 1TB SSD - - same + 1TB m.2 SSD PSU: CX750M I looked at what would fit, not what was compatible. After nothing but restarts after booting with no GPU, no RAM, single RAM, original CPU, etc. Also yes, the CPU fan was in the right socket. Everything was right. So without a multimeter I'm left with no other option than to assume I've fried the motherboard. You might notice a couple of mistakes with my upgrades. Firstly I ordered a M.2 SSD but this MoBo doesn't even support M.2... How old is this thing?! I also got a WiFi adaptor because my daughter keeps tripping on the Ethernet and now it's heavily damaged and probably should of been thrown out about a year ago. Anyway, back to the actual topic. Given the parts I've gotten and with the intent of purchasing a relatively high end GPU in future, what MoBo should I get that will last ~5 years to replace the fried one?

Do older games, those made in the 90s & the early 2000s hate multi-gpu setups? Here are some of the games: GTA3 GTA Vice City Fair Strike Enemy Engaged 2 Will still be trying the others... Although they installed fine, upon running them, I get a BSOD. I am unable to get the cause or even the stop code because, there are none. (I use Bluescreen View to view the BSOD logs) It just bluescreens for a second then reboots. Here are my specs: AMD Phenom II 960T 3.0GHz 8GB RAM Asus GTX760 x2 ROG MARS Powercolor 6870 x2 Coolermaster SilentPro Hybrid 1300W Windows 7 Pro x64 Just to note, I installed the game on a 2.0TB Firecuda formatted to HFS+ and I am using Paragon's HFS+ for Windows. Other games just run fine. Lock On Modern Air Combat Far Cry 2 Il-2 1946 War Front Turning Point Act of War High Treason Crash Bandicoot Nsane Trilogy Soviet Monsters: Ekranoplan

My laptop, an IdeaPad Gaming 3i, has 8 GB of RAM pre-installed and can be upgraded to 32. There are 2 slots, and there's 8GB 3200MHz in one slot, while the other is empty. Since 8GB is bottlenecking multiple applications I use on a daily basis, I want to upgrade. Now, there's 8GB RAM at around $75 where I live, and 16 GB is around $105. So, naturally, I feel 16 GB is providing me more value for money. However, since I've see this combo rarely, are there any performance side-effects by not using the same capacity RAM? (Note: Frequency is 3200 MHz in every scenario represented)

Hi to you all, this is my first post in the forum! I am planing to make a new build with the new series of AMD Zen3 series, and the NVIDIA 3080FE (when available). I want to do it with the Corsair Crystal 280x case and a mATX mobo. I will also use it for work, and I need lots of RAM, so going with a mini ITX is not an option. My plan is to have 2x 120mm (or 140mm) fans in the bottom as intake blowing directly on the GPU, and a 240mm AIO in the top of the case (+ the 2 stock fans in the front), so the air can follow a "perfect" vertical path. I also check that the 280x legs are pretty short, but I plan to elevate it, as well as placing spacers in the top crystal panel for better air flow. My question is, if anyone has experience with this kind of setup, if the fans in the bottom are compatible with a mATX mobo and the front panel connectors, and if so, if this issue can be solved with low profile fans, like the Noctua NF-A12x15. I tried to check with PCBS, but I don't trust it so much... Also, can you suggest any other case that doesn't have the PSU in the bottom so I can have this configuration? I check that the CoolerMaster Q500L would be an option, but that the thermals are completely terrible... Thanks for your help!

Hello everyone, Im planning to finally build my pc. I'm moving away from quite an old pc (still running some ddr3 and I'm still on an FM2+ processor, if that can give you an idea of how old my current setup is. And I've finally decided for an upgrade. My goal isn't to run the triple A games in 4k. As long as I can game at 1080p with a decent framerate, that's fine by me. It will already be a huge upgrade haha. Country: belgium Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: some gaming (indie games mostly and the occasional triple A game medium settings if possible), usual Web browsing and productivity. Other details CPU : And Ryzen 5 4500 (not the best, but a good update from my current A10, and for only 99 euros) Mobo : Asus Prime B450M-K II (bios flashback is nice in case its needed, available for 70 euros) Psu : Corsair CV550 80PLUS Bronze. Graphic card : I will keep my old one, and get the upgrade when they become available in my country, probably to a gtx 1630. Ram : I was thinking of some Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 sticks of 8 gigs) at 320p MHz. But my issue lies here. On AMD and corsair website. The ram is listed as CMK16GX4MZ3200C16. While the one I found on amazon are listed as CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 The slight difference being Z3 and B3. But if I look more into it. The one from amazon (with the B3) aren't listed in the compatibility list. And I was wondering if it was still compatible or not ? It will be my first pc build. So I don't really want to mess up and been doing some research. Can someone please help ? Thank you very much in advance.

I am upgrading to i7-12700F. I already had a Zotac Nvidia 750ti graphics card and 16GB DDR4 RAM which I wanted to keep as anew graphics card will be much out of my budget. While installing I got EZ Debug CPU Red Light and boot loop without any display on monitor. I called MSI Service center where they told me to reset bios by shorting jumper and removing the CMOS battery. But it didn't help. The MSI guy told that Nvidia 750ti is not supported on the motherboard and I also found that on MSI website Nvidia 750ti is not listed. But does that mean I will not get any display. Problems I am facing - 1) MSI EZ Debug CPU Red Light on Motherboard 2) Boot loop without any display on monitor Now I have some questions - 1) Can someone confirm that Zotac Nvidia 750Ti can go with MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4? 2) Is a Graphics Card required for POST with Intel i7-12700F processor, i.e, without inbuilt graphics? 3) What are the chances of a Intel Processor being faulty? ( as the EZ Debug CPU Light was red ) 4) Can my motherboard be the problem? ( its new ) N.B: I checked there are no bent pins on motherboard and I installed Cooler Master Liquid Cooler. Country: India

See this: (specification of i7-12700K on Intel's website) It says up to DDR4 3200, yet Motherboards and RAMs can OC with XMP/D.O.C.P. above 5000Mhz Does Memory Type just mean "guaranteed to run at this frequency but could handle higher"? If my understanding is wrong, and you know better, could you give a helping hand in this thread?: Thanks.

So, I'm stuck in this decision where either I can upgrade ram or SSD. I just bought an ssd but my motherboard's having M.2 L3.5 but I can't find any ssd that is compatible to that socket. So, if I have to install an M.2 nvme ssd, I would have to buy an adapter for that, or I can upgrade my PC's RAM. My system specs: cpu: Intel core i3 6100, Ram: 4gb ddr3l (not laptop version), no gpu, Storage: 2x512gb hdd. I would really appreciate your advise.

I own 2 Xbox controllers, and I'm wondering if the wireless adapter works on Linux natively, or if I need to install other drivers, like xpadneo or xow?

There occasionaly comes a post asking a recommendation for a Motherboard so that the CPU they have chosen won't for example make the VRMs regulate for their life, what's a good indicator that the Motherboard can handle the CPU? One thing I have in mind is when the brand states: "supports Ryzen 5000 series CPUs" Does that mean that the Motherboard will with 99% certainty be able to handle power draw from any 5000 series Ryzen CPU, even under long and high utilisation, as long as we don't introduce CPU Overclocking? Thanks.

Hello fellow enthusiasts, I am currently planning to upgrade the pc build of a friend. I offered my expertise and I do not want that something could go wrong. So I would like a second opinion on the compatibility of the Ryzen 5 5500 and the Gigabyte B450 Aorus Elite V2. Will it work out of the box, or do I have to update the bios? I never have done it, and I am quite afraid to screw up tremendously. If the pairing will not work out of the box, what should I look after when I search for another? The build is nothing special. It will contain a GTX 1650 Super, 2x8GB 3000 MHz ram and the Ryzen 5 5500.

I'm getting ready to build and was looking over my parts and doing some research and I'm wondering if these will all work together: Motherboard - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 3700x Ram - G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB 3600 (2x16gb) I saw that my motherboard and ram will work fine so thats good. But I was wondering the compatibility between my CPU and Ram. I saw on a previous forum that it works at 16gb but I wanna make sure itll work fine at 32gb because the CPU specifications says it maxes out at 3200mhz.

Hello, I'm trying to upgrade a pre-built PC but I am not entirely sure about the compatibility of the components. Looking to upgrade just CPU and GPU - on a budget. I am unsure if the motherboard is compatible with either, nor if settings/configuration is ok to just swap them out. Current: Motherboard: Intel DQ67SW (Canada Ices-003 Class-B). CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2500S CPU @ 2.70GHz [4x of these listed in Device Manager] GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GT 710 Chipset: Intel(R) 6Series/C200 Series Chipset Family 6 Port SATA AHCI Controller - 1C02 (only lists this one so I'm assuming it's the South Bridge & that North bridge operations done within CPU) System is from 2016(time windows was activated) My wants: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X GPU: GTX 1660 SUPER I'm happy with those two items as a combo(have not ordered anything yet), but if needs be I'll swap motherboard/whatever else(if this is the case then please list a good suggestion ) PS: I'm not tech-savvy so be easy on me & use simple language Feel free to ask for more information if needed.

I’m thinking of getting a 2TB 970 Evo or WD Black SN770 for my 4th gen ThinkPad X1 Yoga. Are these SSDs single-sided?

Budget (including currency): usd $2500 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: WoW, video editing for fun and training videos (could be lengthy). Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I need a PSU, CPU cooling that will fit in the case, preferably air cooled and quiet. And I still need some RAM, looking at probably 6400 32GB. Any input would be great, main concern is compatibility. Thanks everyone! Here is my list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/W2vJtn. Here is what I have so far: MB https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z690-f-gaming-wifi-model/ CPU https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/134599/intel-core-i912900k-processor-30m-cache-up-to-5-20-ghz.html GPU https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Graphics-Cards/Dual/DUAL-RTX3060-O12G/ Case https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Mid-Tower-ATX-Cases/4000D-Airflow-Tempered-Glass-Mid-Tower-ATX-Case/p/CC-9011200-WW Storage https://www.seagate.com/files/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/firecuda-530-ssd-DS2059-1-2106US-en_CA.pdf https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/980-pro-pcie-4-0-nvme-ssd-1tb-mz-v8p1t0b-am/

Quick summary: I own an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max. After enabling TPM 2.0 and making sure the PC Health Check was ok with my system, I successfully upgraded from Windows 10 to Windows 11. However, due to some small issues I experienced, I plan to clean install Windows 11 on this machine. The current BIOS is E7B86AMS.H5 from 11/07/2019. For unrelated reasons (primarily the unavailability of my UPS, as I fear bricking the board), I won't be able to update it for some time, so I'm stuck with this version. Additionally, the latest version from 2022 is a beta, so I wouldn't have updated anyways, as I don't install potentially unstable BIOS versions. Question: Although the system is clearly able to run Windows 11, I don't know if there might be incompatibilities with the current BIOS after future updates. Is it generally recommended to run Windows 11 on an older BIOS from 2019, thus clearly meant for Windows 10 64-bit? Should I just clean install Windows 10 and stick with it until I can update to a non-beta BIOS from 2022 or later?

my top x16 pcie slot finally gave out, after a year of only working after several reboots and strictly x2 speed, it died. (I presume). I was using the slot for the LSI megaraid card for my raid drives. now that the slot won't work I just ordered an adapter kit that most people order for mining. it plugs into an x1 slot and provides an x16 slot like this : I was just wondering if there would be any incompatibilities or such. on paper this should work with my storage card since it's about the same to being plugged in directly. the usb to the x1 is the data, sata > pin power is the regular power delivery. what do you guys think? is it a solid solution? can't find a replacement z390 motherboard around anymore for a decent price.

Let's be honest: if it takes more than 3 hours to install an OS, a general consumer is going to give up. I almost did after 17 hours of attempting to put Ubuntu 14.04 onto my school desktop. The first 3 were my fault for not verifying the hash of the ISO I downloaded to ensure I got a perfect image. Admittedly, I got the OS installed, but everything was broken. It erased the windows 7 installation and went on fine, but everything from the get go was wrong once I got in. So, I tried again when I downloaded 14.04.1, this time verifying the hash. All was good. It's now been 4 hours. As I begin the installation process, I hit wall after wall trying to install. I erased all the old partitions and went to booting from the disk to try Ubuntu. I formatted my drives to ext4, but the corrupt bootloader from the old install still remained in my hard drive cache (nasty piece of work to unseat that thing) and so I couldn't install back over that. I unraided my drives, erased them all, tried everything I could. by hour 10 I was switching back to Windows 7 because I had work that needed to be done. The next session I immediately re-raided my drives, booted from the Ubuntu disk (shockingly slow given I have the fastest CD/DVD/Blu-Ray reader on the market), and formatted the array for ext4. Now I went to install. It couldn't install the bootloader to SDA, or the primary mount point, the only volume on the system. I tried using the smart partitioner Ubuntu suggests, and while it installed all of Linux, the GRand Unified Bootloader couldn't be installed. For 2 hours I tried various things before resorting to heavy research on the ubuntu community forums. Of course this happens to be one thing they broke between Ubuntu 12 and 14: RAID 0 support. If you want your distro on a RAID 0 machine, you have to jump through a number of hoops to get it. You must install on an empty drive, back up the entire system image, erase and dump the caches of your RAID drives, format for EXT4, and import the whole image and pray the striping doesn't mess up the bootloader. Guess what? If you have 3 or more drives in RAID 0 (300GB velociraptors), it can't possibly succeed. Hour 14: I'm livid, but I'm still willing to try it out. I give up on my raid drives and install to a single drive on its own. I format the other two to FAT32 and put them in RAID 0 to hold my programs and applications (this is much easier to arrange). Somewhere in the first few attempts I realized my wifi wasn't working. It turns out that's something on my school's end not fully supporting Linux over WiFi, but a fellow enthusiast helped me solve the problem. He runs Arch Linux. Hour 15: installing all the updates that aren't included on the distro...typical, thank god for fast college internet. Also, drivers, drivers, drivers... SHEESH! 15.5: Getting my programmer's software. Emacs, G++, and Clang all install just fine. Standard C/C++ programs compile fine, but OpenCL libraries weren't included. Sigh...I had to hunt down the proper namings for the Nvidia and Intel OpenCL libraries (I knew I had an Intel chip with an iGPU, but I'd forgotten it was a 2600k which doesn't support OpenCL (wasted time, boo...)). The Nvidia drivers were also temperamental while installing. Hour 16.5: Installing Intel's Parallel Studio and Compiler Collection, setting up environment variables for use. Intel could improve a couple things honestly given the man pages are sparse and the documentation is buried in an install directory you can't reach unless you know the secrets buried in youtube videos instead of the online install guide Intel provides. Hour 17: Java language, runtime, and compiler... Holy freaking Hell! All the libraries have very similar names, and they all had conflicts with each other. ARGH! 17:45: Okay, everything's installed. Everything compiles and runs under all environments as desired. Except, all my code files and executables are the same shade of green in the command line. I looked up the existing guide to change file type display colors in the command line. It figures Ubuntu 14.04 has broken this too. All the guides working for 12.04 do not work for 14.04 despite the fact all environmental variables are the same. It's just something broken the user can barely change. You can't add some file types to the LS_COLORS variable, or, if you can, I and a slew of people having the same issue are just lost and the community isn't being helpful. Canonical, if it weren't for the fact the Intel compiler set doesn't work properly in Mint, I'd be leaving you for the next 5 years. This is about the perfect storm hitting trying to push me away from your platform, and the Ubuntu derivatives which don't have your embedded spyware are no better after trying them too. You bastards are damn lucky. If anyone can recommend another distro that has the same standard commands but doesn't have the functional bullshit I've run into involving a lack of RAID install support, and can run Parallel Studio XE 15, please, please tell me. If you want to try Linux and you aren't a programmer, try Mint. It's a great Windows Look-Alike and has tons of helpful tools. It just can't be my Linux driver. This has been a nightmare of a first experience with Linux, and I know some of it was my fault, but Canonical needs to get its crap in order. Also, I refuse to use 14.10 out of the sheer principle no OS should have the name or branding of a pink unicorn. This blog is my least professional and I really don't care. The rage needed to come out, and people should be aware of the problems with this distro.