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  • •[]•-PCMC ℂaℒℒ-ℊIrℒs Ѻ7Ѻ578IѺIѺ4 _=_ Ѻ976775824Ѻ Baner-PiMpri EscOrts Service-Hinjewadi, Dehu rOad Call Girls
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
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  • A techy blog
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
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  • New pc for under 750$
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
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  • Windows on a laptop?
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  • MrUnknownEMC's Christmas Giveaway
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  1. I just recently upgraded my set up. I got an i3 9100f since it is a great value and highly rated, and to match that, a Z170A Gaming pro carbon because it also has lga 1151. I also had to upgrade ram to be ddr4 for the new motherboard so I got 8gbOLOy Dimm ddr4 3000 MHz, not brand name, but I believe it had decent reviews on amazon and I am pretty sure it is properly installed in slot 2. Any how, the indicator light says that there is an issue reading CPU. I zip tied my fan to it, since there are motherboard capacitors in the way of the bracket for the fan. I am almost out of zipties so I'd prefer this be resolved without dismounting my fan, if possible. I also upgraded my case and added a couple drives, but I doubt they are involved. Anyhow, I boot it up and all of my rgb turns on and the fans start, so it runs, but it must be failing POST because the monitor does absolutely nothing. I haven't cleared CMOS yet and if you think it is a very possible fix, I will do so gladly, but there is stuff in the way right now. Also, I have a 500w PSU. EDIT: I have decided I want to update the processor unless you can find a relatively cheap motherboard with a built in usb c slot like this one and four ddr4 slots that can at least kind of support 3000 MHz. I live in the USA
  2. Hello all, I am working on a tower for my uncle, it seems that there was a issue with the display being that it had none. No display from the Graphics card (GTX 750 TI). After cleaning the inside of the case so there wasn't so much dust in it I began to attempt problem solving the issue. I was able to find the manual for the motherboard online at ASUS. I promptly unplugged the power supply from the motherboard and all cards in the computer, as well as the HDD and optical drive. I removed all cards from the PCI slots, and disconnected all plugs from the case that connect to the motherboard. I then removed the motherboard from the case after making sure my ESD protector was connected properly. After which I removed the ram and cleaned the pins as per instructions. I cleaned out the rest of the case. I checked the power supply with a 24 pin power supply tester, everything had the appropriate values. At this point I connected the power supply to the motherboard and reconnected the power button from the case to the motherboard. I put one stick of ram (240 pin 2 GB DDR3) back in and connected a monitor to the motherboard directly with a VGA cable, I connected the HDD to the motherboard following this. I turned on the power supply and the motherboard came back with a green light. I pressed the power button, the fan for the heat sink turned on and the HDD made its usual sounds. Though I still had no video, so I turned the computer off. I then tried changing the Bios battery to a fresh one and turned the computer back on, still no video output. My next step was to reset the CMOS, this fixed the video issue and the screen started to display. This is where I'm stuck though. When the monitor turned on it was displaying Going back to the ASUS website I found the BIOS and downloaded it. I put the BIOS ROM onto a fresh toshiba 32gb USB drive that was formatted to FAT32 and connected it to the computer. When the computer loaded up back to the Boot Lock screen it recognized that there was a USB drive connected and attempted to read the file which was named "CG5270.ROM". The BIOS Recovery program was unable to find the file on the USB though it was named correctly. After this I burned the file to a CD and then attempted to recover in that mannor but the computer also didn't recognize that the file was on the CD. So my question is, am I doing something wrong with the file when I put it on the USB or burn it to a CD? I have tried putting in a different piece of RAM which I know works, I changed the power supply though I know it works to another that I also know works, I changed the CPU to a known working one. I'm not sure what else to do.
  3. My friend just built a new computer. Her mobo is an ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming and each time she reboots, her BIOS settings reset to factory defaults. Changes such as DRAM frequency, Aura lighting changes, onboard CPU overclocks are resetting to their default values. Is this something a CMOS battery replacement could solve or would it require an RMA? We'd prefer to do the prior to avoid tearing apart her newly built PC. Any other ideas and suggestions are most welcome. Here is a list of her parts if it helps. CPU: i7-9700k RAM: 16GB (8x2) 3200MHz Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro GPU: MSI 1660Ti (not sure what model though I doubt it makes a diff) Storage and Boot Drive: Samsung 860 EVO 1TB PSU: Corsair CX750M
  4. I need help and I'm not bad with computers but this has me stumped. Problem: I have an ASRock G41M-VS3 and it was working two days ago but the one RAM slot was giving me problems and I had another identical board lying around so I rebuilt the system into the other board (board 2) but it wouldn't post so I built the system back into board 1 and it also wouldn't post but after clearing the CMOS it would boot to a error screen saying that the CMOS settings are wrong and resetting to default settings by pressing F1 made the system not post but clearing the CMOS gets me the error message. If I clear the CMOS and go to the BIOS and change anything (it literally does not matter what I change) then save and exit it does not post. What I have tried: I replaced the battery. Updated the BIOS. Cleared CMOS multiple times. Tried different Graphics Cards (on-board does not work). Swapped out ram. Tried a bare bones boot but no post codes. Well just no post codes period except when I clear the CMOS and get the error screen. I also then tried with an older board (Gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2C) that still worked two months ago when I used it last but that also did not post. I don't think its the RAM or CPU as I should get post codes with that but I don't and PSU looks fine. Any advise would be appreciated. ASRock G41M-VS3: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/G41M-VS3%20R2.0/index.asp Gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2C: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-G31M-ES2C-rev-2x#ov
  5. Hello friends, I have an old H61 motherboard with which I am having a little problem, my BIOS is automatically getting reset. At first it was running well until yesterday, when I tried to turn it on, it was not turning on(I mean nothing happened, even the CPU fan didn't spin) then I took out the CMOS battery and put it again and cleared the CMOS using the jumper and then it turned on, but a new problem showed up, the bios gets reset after a power cut from the wall but if I turn it off from the motherboard or restart it all setting stays. I also tried changing the CMOS battery, updated the BIOS, nothing happened. I checked all other components like the CPU, Power Supply, RAM in an another system, it's all fine. My board is- Gigabyte GA-H61M-S2P (rev 2.1) Thanks in advance.
  6. Pc Specs My pc specs i7 6700k gtx 970 16gb ram one hard drive and one ssd Manufacturer Acer Product Predator G6-710 I tried changing the graphics card, ram slots, resetting the cmos, Nothings working.
  7. Hey there, i ve read a thread where someone had a problem with his bios. Since yesterday I also have the problem that my bios is laggy. I used the samsung 960evo ssd and just bought a bigger 970evo to replace it. So I started and put it in my second m.2 slot, started the pc, it turned itself off, then turned on normally, I saw the new SSD in the program and started cloning my C drive to the new ssd with the samsung data migration tool. Worked fine, 230Gb in 9minutes, so I shut down the pc took the 960evo out, put the 970evo in the faster m.2 slot and started the pc. It wasn’t incredible fast but ok it turned on everything worked. When I restarted to check the bios if the boot order is ok etc, the problems begun. When entering the bios it took literally ages. I ve got a password but even loading the password screen took like 30sec or so, before everything was fine. I took the time and the total time to get into the bios was around 3 minutes which is rlly strange. Then I turned it on normally, made an m flash usb and updated my bios to the newest version. I thought that might fix it because the 970evo is also newer than the 960 but it didnt work. Still laggy, mouse and keyboard with big delay which wasnt there before. I decided to put back in my old drive so i changed ssds like they were before. Still laggy so the new drive seemed to have corrupted my bios. Because of the update, my overclocking profile was reset so with the old ssd I wanted to put everything back to how it was before and loaded my overclocking profile. Then after restarting my pc didnt turn on, screen black fans, pump and ram running, but nothing happened. The CPU debug light was on, even after restarting and thats where I got quite worried. After waiting I decided to reset the cmos with connecting the two metal things, bios reset PC now turns on again (im glad about that) but unfortunately my bios is still laggy. I tried to describe every step detailled, maybe thats relevant. I could imagine that drivers could be the problem that my bios cant communicate well with the new ssd because the driver of the old one is installed but idk. Since my pc worked again, I decided to leave it for now and wait for an opinion or tip. My specs are I7700k (normally overclocked to 5Ghz), GTX 1080, 16GB trident z rgb ram 3200mhz and the 960/970evo. mainboard z270 gaming pro carbon Msi, 1151 socket. The newest bios wa the one from september with the 190 at the end. The one i used before was from march or sth like that. would be really nice if you could help me to get my bios running with the 970evo installed. Do I have to change the drivers again or sth like that because the installer said the newest driver is already installed... Thanks
  8. Everytime I unplug my Psu or turn it off at the wall then I need to reset cmos and if it unplug a fan or put a new one in then... You guess it! Our old friend Mr cmos pops in for a visit after work! Edit: Otherwise I don't get post
  9. Hello all, Since I’m very much a noob at PC building I ordered a PC from Overclockers UK. It arrived on Wednesday and I decided to hop into the BIOS to see what if anything had been overclocked. I noticed XMP was not enabled and I therefore enabled it. I’ve since been playing Fallout 76 on it for most of Friday and today. All of a sudden, after around ten hours of use it turned itself off in the middle of a game. I saw a brief flash of light and tried turning it back on several times. Nothing happened. I tried again after I turned the PSU off and on and it started booting but shut down after a couple of seconds. I waited around a minute and turned it on and it booted successfully. I ran an Aida64 stress test and after a few minutes it turned itself off again. I waited and booted it up and went into BIOS. I was told the CMOS had been cleared, so I exited BIOS and ran the stress test again. After ten minutes of stress testing nothing bad had happened. I ran Fallout 76 for a few minutes as I needed to get to work and it was fine. Does anyone know what has happened? It boots fine now and I can’t smell any burning or see anything that’s burned. I’ve got someone else to see if they could see/smell anything and they couldn’t either. Could it have been enabling XMP? If so why the flash of light and why fail after ten hours of use? I won’t be able to run any more tests until Sunday afternoon. Thanks for reading. Specs: CPU: i9-10900k. Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Master Z490. RAM: TeamGroup 8Pack 16GB 3600MHz (x2). GPU: EVGA 2080TI FTW 3 Ultra. Storage: Samsung 970 1TB Evo Plus and Samsung 970 500GB Evo Plus. PSU: Phanteks Revolt X 1000W. Case: Phanteks P600S.
  10. Hi so I did my first build last week using Asus Prime B450M-A and Ryzen 5 3500X. It was working completely until yesterday i decided to manage my cables for a cleaner look. After doing so, my pc is not booting up anymore. I noticed there was no beep during startup anymore which makes leads me to think this is a POST problem. The peripheral fans, processor cooler fan, and gpu fans are working. But the monitor says "no display." Even the rgb on the RAM is lighting up. I have searched google for troubleshooting tips and these are what I've done so far: - Remove both rams then turning it on - remove one ram and leave one on either slot A2 or B2 (ive tried every combination) - checked my connections but everything looks fine - checked my mobo to see if there are burns or bends or if something is shorting but there is none - reset CMOS by removing the battery and shorting the reset headers as said in the manual for about 2 hours I think ive done almost anything except check for cpu but im hesitant to do thst since google says its rare to destroy the cpu especially for a 1 week old build. I might even damage it more. I also dont have extra psu or gpu or motherboard to troubleshoot. What do you suggest i try more? Do you think this is still fixable? If not, which part do you think is the problem? Im guessing the motherboard but i cant believe it since it's very new and it was just working before i organized my cables. Thanks.
  11. Everytime I start my PC after a full shut down I have to follow these steps 1 remove power cable 2 remove cmos battery 3 return power cable 4 start PC Then rinse and repeat till it finally boots up and displays something I have purchased new batteries every few days
  12. Hello everyone, I hope everyone is safe and Happy. My CMOS battery was dead after 4 years of use so i recently installed a new CMOS battery and everything was running fine. But from last night my PC is going to BIOS (the one where it asks to press F1 to enter BIOS) screen when i try to boot up my system. I figured that my M.2 drive (Bootable) where my OS is installed is not configured in the MOBO settings so i tried to re-configure and restarted the PC and then it's works fine, But whenever i shutdown my PC and try to start it again then i face the same issue where my M.2 drive is not configured in MOBO setting. This problem does not occur if i restart the PC. Also i noticed that whenever i try to boot my case power led and fans led's turn on and off for couple of times (usually 2 times) before coming to BIOS screen where it ask me to press F1 to enter bios setup. Then i configure M.2 SSD and save and exit and again power led turn on and off for two times and PC boots up. I was wondering that is this behavior normal because i have not noticed this earlier. Any help will be highly appreciated and thanks a lot for your time. PC Specs - Mobo - Asus z97-A CPU - Intel i7 4790k Ram - Corsair Vengence 16GB 1600mz (8x2) GPU - Zotac RTX 2060 Super AMP Edition Storage - WD Blue 1TB, Toshiba SSD 128Gb, M.2 NVME 250GB samsung evo plus (2280)- for OS OS - Windows 10 64bit
  13. Hello, so I've been thinking a lot recently, does frequent shorting of CMOS battery actually causes any damage in the long run? By damage I mean any kind of aftereffect like degradation, power loss and overall shorting lifespan. I've been searching a lot for any kind of specific information about that, since I've been overclocking a lot recently and a few times I had to short jBAT1 pins to reset the configuration, but everywhere I looked there were more information about the process of shorting and not enough about the effects
  14. I just decided to oc my 4690k now I have no display. Mobo is ga z97x gigabyte gaming 3. Followed this video https://youtu.be/0CHs5_TdpXE Orginally it wouldn't boot so I drop the multiplier to 44 without changing voltage. Worked perfect until i turned off my pc. Now when I boot I have no picture. Took out the mobo battery and reboot same thing. Is there anything else I can do?
  15. I had to use the clear cmos button on my motherboard because I had enabled fast boot which completely locked me out of my bios for some reason (the option didn't appear in the troubleshoot restart menu). I now have access to my bios again, but some folders on my desktop are missing. I looked it up before and every source said that it only changes bios settings. But it seems to have reverted windows to an earlier recovery point or something. Files that I had deleted from my desktop weeks ago appeared when windows booted and folders/files I had on my desktop before clearing cmos are gone. my downloads folder contained files from weeks ago as well and not some files I downloaded today. Everything on my storage drives is intact and I don't necessarily need the files that disappeared, but i would like to know what happened. I also had some display issues on my first boot after clearing where it took about 2 minutes for my pc to sort out the dual display. Can anyone explain?
  16. I have to keep resetting cmos battery to get pc to give video output? I'm assuming that doing this in the longterm is a bad solution because I could break something or stuff gets worn down etc... Why is this? I keep all my bios clocks for cpu and ram on auto and only change ui size in windows to 300% normal use and 100% when I play Minecraft for fullscreen scaling! Literally get no output until I do the cmos reset and have done it twice now and only get video after I do it! Somethings definitely wrong! Edit: I should say that in both time I was actually reseating stuff! For example the first no video time I was reseating the f audio cable and the second I was unplugging and re plugging in my exhaust case fan cable because I put it the wrong way around in my case!
  17. Hey people. The last couple of weeks i've had to clear the CMOS pretty much every time my PC has been shut down or has gone to sleep. I've done it by either removing the mobo button cell battery with the PSU powered off or with the CMOS jumper. And it has worked. But its super annoying. The build runs fine. No stability issues whatsoever. I have done a couple of MEMTEST64 runs and no issues. I've had bad ram before. These seem to be in order. No heating issues either on any parts. I also did a BIOS update to the newest version (beta build). In general drivers are updated pretty regularly. CPU is OC'ed but issue remains even when its not. I need some help locating the issue please, be it software, hardware or voodoo. Intel 4690k (h100i cooled) Asus Z97 AR Kingston HyperX 1866MHz - 4x8GB Corsair RM750 PSU Gigabyte 2070
  18. Ok, so I wanted to upgrade my old laptop the HP pavilion G6. It turned out the best cpu that was compatible was the intel I5-480m with the G2 socket. ok so far so good- I take apart the laptop and replace the cpu. Ive already updated the bios to the latest version (F.66) and cleared the CMOS. I am still getting blank screen. The display is getting power as I put in the old cpu and it still works. Any help? Thanks
  19. So, I had to perform a cmos reset by removing the battery, and now it has a boot artifact, always with the wame pattern. Also, fans sound like they're kinda fast. It doesn't go past that. I dont know what to do
  20. Does anyone knows how to flash the bios of the MSI B85M-IE35(P33). It's showing B2 code and I can't get into the bios, also I can't seem to find the cmos pin.
  21. Without just saying "It's a new, better version of BIOS". They want to know what's actually different about how it works and what is "better" about it.
  22. Welp I have a old Shuttle system which I am trying to restore and use it as my "old games" machine (and maybe NAS server in future). But I ran into some weird booting issue... System spec: Core 2 Quad 9550, Shuttle SG41J1 LGA 775 Mini-ITX motherboard, 2x DDR2-6400 G.Skill 1GB stick (going to upgrade to at last 2x 2GB), a small hard drive, brand new EVGA 600W power supply. OS is WIn7 Ultimate 64 bit edition In short, the thing won't boot unless the CMOS button is pressed. Long version: The issue is that it won't boot from a "cold start" (power off for a while), unless pressing the CMOS and the power button at same time. Then everything seems fine after loading the default boot options, all rams detected and at correct speed according to CPU-Z. The Interesting part is the machine boots fine during restart by windows or if I shut it down and try to restart the machine after USB powered down and fans stopped. I wanted to flash the BIOS but unfortunately the BOIS from Shuttle's website won't work on 64 bit Windows 7 Ultimate. The current BOIS on the board is the latest available. So what might be wrong and how to fix it?? I do know this machine probably sat in a closet without power and ram sticks in for a quite a while. it was likely a senior design project computer from the university... I already got her a brand new 600W power supply and new CMOS battery...
  23. The socket of my cmos battery is broken. I found some forums that said that you should glue it with hot glue, and others that say that you can just tape it. Wat should i do? laptop : HP pavilion 15-n255sb
  24. Hello to whomever is out there, I call upon the elements of Earth, Fire, Wind, Water and Heart and The Force to please kindly assist me. I recently acquired my aunt's old pc and thought 'Oh, I could use this for old steam games'. I have checked everywhere and I cannot see a fix hence I have made my first forum post ever. This Linus thread (linked below) was most helpful however it did not fix my issue as the person in the thread used a Xeon in a motherboard that did not support it. I have never done anything as detailed as this so please be patient and explain more than you usually would. Essentially, two major issues: 1) The Hard drive is stuck on Windows Error Recovery (the issue is that the Keyboards I have tried do not register at all, hence it is continuously stuck in a "Start Windows Normally" loop where it boots up to the load screen and restarts and continues). 2) Keyboards are not being accepted for bios/post so I cannot 'fix' the hard drive by choosing another Windows Error Recovery Option. PC: CPU: Q9300 Core 2 Quad 2.5Ghz (LGA775 Socket / Yorkfield) GPU: None yet, was a 500 series NVIDIA (She took it back! The best piece! So found a cheap GTX460 online which hasn't arrived yet-not in case). Motherboard does have a VGA connector. RAM: 2 x 2Gb DDR2 800Mhz Motherboard: Intel DQ35JO https://ark.intel.com/products/50382/Intel-Desktop-Board-DQ35JO Please note this PC only has USB Ports no old keyboard port. OS: Windows 7 (SP X? I cannot get it past the logo). What I have done so far: 1) Disconnected the HDD and moved the Jumper thing on the motherboard. 2) Did the Recovery BIOS Update Instructions for Intel® Desktop Boards with correct version via USB https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/19638/BIOS-Update-JOQ3510J-86A-?product=50382 The BIOS recovery worked/said was done and I replaced the Jumper thing 3) My USB keyboards still do not work at all, I cannot get into the BIOS to see if USB keyboards are enabled. I have tried every port on the back and the front (turning off and on after each try) and NADA. So now I'm here... Side errors: 1) The firmware has detetected that a CMOS battery failure occurred 2) The firmware has detetected that a CMOS Checksum Error occurred 3) The firmware has detetected that the system date/time has not been set I am also open to other options such as using an enclosure for the HDD to fix windows (can this be done?), or something else... "Please help me Captain Planet/Help me, Obi Wan Kenobi. You're my only hope"
  25. Hi, I'm having a few problems with my PC that I think are to do with the CMOS battery/similar issue. My specs are: i7-4790k (Originally oc to 4.4GHz, now @ stock 4GHz) ASUS Z97-A ASUS Geforce gtx660 Windows 10 and then Ubuntu 17.10/18.04 To begin with, when turning my pc on, the fans and lights would turn on for a few seconds, stay off for a few and then come back on, this would repeat until I switched it off. Eventually I managed to get to BIOS and noticed that the ram was oc to 2400MHz (It was normally/meant to be at 1600MHz) so I corrected this. After a while I was getting bluescreens on Windows 10 with "CLOCK_WATCHDOG_ERROR". I noticed that there were strange issues with oc/over volting on the cpu and ram when I turned it on at various times. Then, after trying each single stick of ram to see whether that was the issue it wouldn't even turn on. After clearing the CMOS, it would turn back on but it only turns on without the stop/start or weird BIOS settings I had before if the CMOS has been cleared before hand. I have tried replacing the CMOS battery and updating the firmware but am still having the issues. Is it time to replace the motherboard or is there still something I could do? Thanks in advance.
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