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Showing results for tags 'cat6'.
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For over a year I have been using CAT7 S/FTP in my home and every time when I run a new cable I wonder.. Does it really matter what type connector I use? I got Draka cat7 cable because I wanted to be future prove “better do it right the first time”. While the cable was easy to get, the LSA / RJ45 connectors just weren’t there. So I used CAT6a LSA wall outlets / patch panels and CAT5e RJ45 connectors. Even now it´s hard to find CAT7 rated products, and if you find them the price knocks you over. It gives me the feeling that the “right connector,keystone” doesn’t matter that much. And that it might be possible to get my 10GBe speed (best case) on a CAT7 cable equipped with CAT5e connectors. I would love to test this case, but I don’t own a 10GBe network (yet), so help me out guys. Does it really matter, and if yes, how much does it matter?
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So just recently I have been struggling with my internet acting up. Essentially, it will appear that my cable is unplugging itself off and on and I can hardly use my internet on the PC. I do not have a wifi card to test if it is only the cable acting up. IF that is the case, what type of cable would you prefer and the most rugged to be routed partially outside the house? If it is neither of those, help me find out if it is bandwidth restrictions or poor internet. I highly doubt it is poor internet as it has never had these problems before. Please let me know what y'all think!
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i have gigabit internet but when i run internet tests i only get 100-110 down 10 up. in games im hitting around 30 ping. im using a cat6 cable. how can i achieve better speeds?
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So I don't really have any pictures of the progress of this, its dragged on for almost a year because it was kind of a weekend project and as you can see its still not complete. I still have some wires that I need to clean up that are still running out the door and there's also a broken jack on the bottom patch panel but for the most part it is done. Everything is CAT6, I used Monoprice riser cable for all the horizontal cabling runs because believe it or not it is actually better quality cable for the price than other brands. Monoprice is solid copper, many boxes you find on Amazon or god forbid eBay are aluminum copper clad. All the patch cables and panels are CAT6 and I have a 1Gbp link all the way back to the VDSL modem. The MikroTik is handling PPP and all the DHCP, NAT, etc. So far the MikroTik has worked wonders for me, I'm still working out some kinks trying to implement IDS/IPS with snort integration with the MikroTik and also trying to set some bandwidth limits. Eventually the demarc on the outside of the house will be moved and trenched with new line all the way out to the DSLAM but for right now everything is working like a champ. All the equipment (Excluding consumer grade modem) is grounded and I've also got a dedicated ground on both the DSL and cable lines. Hope ya'll enjoy, if you have any questions or advice I'd love to learn.
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Hi, Just wanting to get some confirmation wheather anyone else can't securely lock in there ethernet cable (Cat6) to the ethernet port of there Nvidia shield. The nvidia shield detects it but its can easily be pulled out. Is this a know issue or is my nvidia shield broken? Cheers
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- nvidia shield
- plex
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Hi, recently I renovated my flat I pulled cat 6 cable through the walls. What kind of keystone is supposed to be used? And does cat6 support 10gbit?
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I know this question has already been asked a few times but I feel that my case is a little different since I've tried all the solutions provided in the other threads. I created a small diagram to avoid any potential confusion. My attempt to solve the kink in the cable, also a diagram how things are laid out currently So I have a cat6 cable of 80 meters. This cable has worked in the past. However, 2 years later I want to use that cable again and now it only gives me 95 mbps(tested with iperf3), it also gets recognized as a 100mbps link instead of a 1000mbps link. Image 1 provides a visual representation of how everything is laid out at this point. Parts: The lsa wall plug that I use: https://www.allekabels.be/netwerk-wandcontactdoos/11438/1084697/cat6-wandcontactdoos-inbouw.html All other ends of the cable are terminated with this rj45 connector: https://www.allekabels.be/stekker-doos-en-krimptang/188/1349725/cat6a7-modulaire-connector.html The type of cable I use: S/FTP - CU 250mhz My troubleshooting steps: Redo the connector, router side (changed nothing) Redo the lsa wallplug, pc side (changed nothing) Test the cable with a cable tester. (all wires are working, but still only 100mbps) Check the entire cable for kinks (Found two kinks and cut that piece out. Connected the now 2 cables by adding an rj45 to the ends and connecting them with an ethernet extender, see the after part in the image) (solved nothing) Test the cable again with cable tester (all wires are working, still 100 mbps) Test the cable with iperf from the router to the extender (950 Mbps, recognized as 1000mbps link) Test the cable with iperf from the extender to the PC (95 Mbps, recognized as 100mbps link) (The previous 2 test results do not change if I do them with or without the extender included.) Redo the connector for the cable from the extender to the pc (nothing changes) Redo the lsa plug for the cable from the extender to the PC (nothing changes). Test again with the cable tester (all wires are working) Nothing changes no matter what I try. Things I know for sure: The rj45 connectors support solid core cable. The lsa plug supports cat6. I use the T568B standard everywhere. The type of cable I'm using is S/FTP cat6. The cable does not run anywhere near any other cables(except where it connects to the router). Short distance of about 15 meters works just as it's supposed to. Longer distance of about 65 meters gets recognized as a 100 mbps link What else could it be? The only thing I can think of right now is that the signal isn't strong enough by the time It reaches the pc. So I am still planning putting a switch in the middle of the 65 meter part of the cable. However I would rather not do this since this is outdoors and I don't have a good way of protecting the switch or the not interrupted cable from the elements. If this also does not help, would upgrading to a cat6a help? I read somewhere that cat6 Is not that reliable after about 50 meters. PS: If you find any spelling/grammar mistakes, please let me know. I am still learning English ;)
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So I'm installing a media panel in my house and was debating on how to handle the surge. Theres going to be a UPS in this media panel so my question is can I use the built in surge on the UPS? I've heard some people say built in surge is useless and to have dedicated surge protection. Help
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Hi, everyone! I use a PowerLine in my home to connect my laptop via ethernet, so I have better internet, lower ping, etc. I was thinking of buying cat6 cables to replace the ones it came with, which are cat5, not even cat5e. They can still handle a 1Gbps connection because they're really short, but still, I'd prefer having cat6 just to be sure I'll never have a problem with bandwidth. The thing is, I was looking for cables and came across different types, such as UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair) and FTP (Foiled-screen Twisted Pair), and googled it to find that the UTP have no "insulation" to interference and the FTP ones have. But since I'm using PowerLine, wouldn't it be worthless to get the FTP ones since part of the circuit is through the house's electric wiring, which, I'm pretty sure have a lot of interference? Thanks in advance!
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I recently moved into a new place and started studying at a University. The place has some really nice internet speeds. When checking the network speed through the adapter settings in the Windows Control Panel the connection shows up as 1gbps which is great. Once I test the connection through speedtest.net I get the typical 100mbps test which is just 2-5% below 100mbps. I've tried running directly from the modem to the PC and from the router to the PC but still the same results. I'm using a Cat 6 cable and my mobo is the MSI Z370-A Pro. The mobo runs this network controller http://bit.ly/2LKrIfX Thanks for any help because I sure could use it.
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Hi, Currently upgrading my home network. But not sure what would be my best solution for my needs. e.g router or switch. My current setup is a modem with 4 ethernet ports and wifi 2.4 and 5Ghz. Also I require a wifi extender because of dead zones in my house. I want to add more direct connections via cat6 to improve my speeds on my devices Smart TV, Nvidia shield, Printer, etc. So what would be the best solution? Cheers
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When setting up an office network. The previous tenants already had this what I assume would be a patch panel. I only actually need the reception and wifi access point set up but I figured since I can have others rooms wired why not. What do I actually need to get up and going? (ie switch and an access point for wifi ? ) This is currently what I am looking at for purchased products to get it up and going. https://www.primecables.ca/p-346578-tl-sf1008p-tp-link-tl-sf1008p-8-port-10100mbps-desktop-switch-with-4-port-poe https://www.primecables.ca/p-350440-cab-eap110-tp-link-eap110-300mbps-wireless-n-ceiling-mount-access-point I've attached a photo of the patch panel? How do I confirm what type of cables are being used? (cat5 or 6) And any advice of what type of cables I should use going forward. Cheers again
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- patch panel
- switch
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Ik finally ready to setup networking right at new house and realy don't want to use WiFi if possible. I sometimes hate my self because of that Is there any real reason to use FTP CAT6 instead of UTP if network cables will run outside wall and no way near 220 power lines. Only 3-5 meters will be two network cables next to each other. With network cables I will connect 2 computers 1 tv Freenas sever In total about 40-50 meters of cable. And about Modular plugs. I'm only seen cat6 plugs for UTP cables but does it mater?
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I apologize if this is in the wrong spot. I am new here and signed up specifically to get information on something that makes no sense to me. I recently purchased a new 4k Samsung smart tv and I also upgraded my internet speed from 30 to 100mb/s. My router is dual band and on the 5ghz at night I routinely get speeds of 110-130mb/s on both testmy.net and speed of me (ranked two most reliable on google). I decided to get a hard wired Ethernet connection which I assumed would keep my speeds more constant and reliable for the 4k content. I purchased both a 6ft and 50ft cat6 cable. The shorter one is for the modem to router then the 50 ft from the router slot 1 to my tv. With the wired connection I am averaging 50-90. I even switched back and forth at the same time doing the speed test on both sites wired than again wireless (5ghz). Could someone explain why I am getting half speed with a wired Ethernet connection? Makes no sense. Thanks.
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Hi, i'm looking to install a face plate to face plate cat 6 cable from my router downstairs to the office upstairs, physically running the cable isn't the problem, its connecting it to the face plates at either end and choosing which cable and face plates to use, i was also wondering if i would need any special tools or if the whole process is difficult?, Any help would be appreciated Alfie
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OK, here's the deal. Bought the first house that we actually own, so I'm looking to do some Ethernet wiring throughout the house. I have it pretty well planned out and need a bit of help. There will be drops in the main rooms for streaming players, printers, and cameras, with some open ports in case I need to hardwire something in the future. All the drops will trace to my networking room in the basement. I know how a switch works, and have heard of patch panels, but which option is better to take all the drops and provide them with reliable internet? Do I need both, or is one sufficient? (basically, I will have the patch panel or switch connect to the router, which connects to the DSL modem. ) Also, what's the difference between a switch and a patch panel? I cannot find this ANYWHERE online. It's hard for me to explain this, so please reply if you want clarification! Also, for running wires: is it smartest to go outside, through walls, or through the attic? There are no false ceilings in the house, and I'd like to avoid fishing wires. I realize this will depend on the building, but still I think that's all! THANKS!
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Hi, Just enquiring about extending a USB cable through a CAT6 cable in my ceiling which is roughly 10-15 meters (including height of walls) into my living room from my office. Because at the moment I'm currently got a HDMI CAT6 Extender (http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/AV-Switchers-%26-Converters/Switchers/HDMI-Over-2-x-Cat5e-6---30m-with-IR-Extender/p/AC1730) up an running but unfortunately my Logitech wireless keyboard an mouse cant make the distance. The keyboard and mouse use the same wireless USB doggle which I want to put into the my living room to be able to use it. So my question are: 1. Will a my wireless keyboard & mouse doggle work well, over this distance? 2. Is their a better option or method to extend a usb cable? Any other thoughts and feedback would be great. Cheers.
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Hey, dunno if this is the right thread to post this but it seemed the closest to what I require. I am planning on moving my PC to my spare room to give me more space in my bedroom and reduce the noise levels when I'm gaming. I have been looking at consumer grade KVM units which outputs HDMI (1080p scrub because I can't afford a 4k monitor
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Hey I have a Synology Diskstation (NAS). I've got my iMac connected and the Nas connected to the router via Ethernet. I'm using the router the service provider gave me and I seem to only be getting around 10mbps. I'm using Gigabit ethernet cable. How can I make the speed faster? I'm aware that I'll need to get a gigabit router at some point but it should be faster than 10. Thanks.
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At my college townhouse / dorm, all of the ethernet jacks are bandwidth managed. It's limited to 15/15mbs per jack so that one person does not overload the network. One of the rooms is empty, and will be all this semester. Is there anyway to combine the empty room's, and my room's ethernet jacks into one connection? I would run some cat5e from the other room to my room. So in theory, I would get 30/30mbs.
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Hello everyone, I have to switch from my cable ISP to VDSL in Germany. Sadly I am running a coaxial cable from the cellar up to my buro on the first floor. This is where the router sits with wireless disabled running CAT 6a to two locations in the house (bedroom/living room) where I have two Acces Points (TP-Link N750) to serve the surrounding devices (Synology, PS4, PCs, etc.) via CAT 6a and Wireless. Now the new ISP will allow me to put the router anywhere in the house where I have a telephone jack. There is one in the hallway (right in the middle of the house) and next to the cable input in the Cellar. What can i do to use my CAT6a infrastructure or what would be a new solution without running new cables anywhere? My thoughts: 1: Putting the router in the Hallway, use one of the N750 in bridge mode to grab the internet signal (easy solution). Question: Am i limited to the wireless bridging speed or does overall network connectivity just "skip" the bridge and the routing keep place in the "old" infrastructure? Example task: I download a file from my Synology connected to N750 (which gets the internet signal in bridge mode from the ISP router) to my computer which is connected to N750b all via CAT6a. Does the network just use the "required" devices or is the new ISP router now somehow involved for routing slowing down the entire infrastructure? I hope this makes sense. If you tell me no, then I would be happy already. If you tell me yes it will slow down the system, then I have another question. 2. Can i Connect the Coaxial infrastructure to the new router (which only has LAN ports) somehow? This is my first post here, thank you very much!!
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I am looking for cat6 modular connectors to redo some wiring and I can't seem to find one with a lot of good reviews. On amazon there are quite a few different one but some have the loader some don't, I don't know if the loader is required for proper cat6, and none of them have a sizable amount of good reviews. I need ones for UTP or strand wires. So I am hoping there is some one here who knows what they are doing with this stuff and can help me.
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- cables
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Hello, First time poster, was looking for ideas or to see if the builder has the right one. I'm getting a house built and having some Cat6 cabling done in wall to all bedrooms and 2 lines run to each of the living room/family room. It will be 7 runs total. The idea we had was install 1 outlet in the living room next to where the cable company will install the media gateway ( it's rather large and most likely will need to stay in the living room ) Connect from my router to the socket in the wall and run that cable back with the other 7 lines to a central spot ( which isn't so central, will be in the master bedroom closet, which has the most available space ) I'll have an 8 port switch in the closet and from there will run the 7 lines to the spots that were chosen. I really don't feel like I need a patch panel or will need to expand this set up. The run from the living room to the switch will be about 60', then from the switch to the other drops will be anywhere from 60' to 100'. ( accounting for the cable going up the the roof and back down again , single level house ) Does this idea seem okay? Or are any of the runs to long. I wish there was a more central location to install the switch, but the prints for everything else have already been done. There is a closet slightly closer to the living room, but it seems like it will be stuffy and cramped. I would like to keep the switch/cables out of the living room. Thanks
- 4 replies
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- home network
- cat6
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Greetings! I currently own a ASUS VI Hero with an Intel I217v NIC. I've read some topics, forums and articles about how much sensitive this NIC is, because I have some issues with it too. 1., it's not a big deal, but my SSD is faster than my network, so after my programs loaded (almost immediately), my network is still searching for connection, and I could use my PC, but because of the network I have to wait another 4-5 secs before browsing. My old H81M-A never did this, and clean win. reinstall didn't solved it either, so yes, it's NIC/RoG specific issue, appears on 7 and 8.1 too 2., which seems to be a bigger problem: if I select auto or 100Mbps full duplex, I have no problems, but when I switch to gigabit, I have no network at all (which also wasn't problem on H81M-A) So back to the beginning. I read some articles and find out, that this NIC is very sensitive to UTP cables, most of the time that causes these issues on this chip. We have a 200/50 connection, so I don't need better than CAT5e, CAT6 would be an overkill - and don't think that this mobo also wants that either-, and I don't need a cable over 1m (3.2 feet), even its half could be enough. I accept the fact, that I have old UTP cables, don't know how old they are, but 5 years at min., so maybe it's time to get a pair of new ones. And the obvious (thread-opening) question is: Which one? Is there a real difference between a cheap and an expensive one? Yes, the isolation. But anything else? In my country (and my favourite shop) there are the following brands (/w prices): 1. Logilink - 1.5$ 2. Wiretek - 1.5-1.6$ 3. Belkin - 4$ 4. Roline - 4.5$ 5. Equip / Intellinet - 5.5$ 6. Startech - ~10$ I thought that these are made from the same matter, so I don't know if I really should spend 5 times more on a small cable like this, but those topics and articles fickled me more than enough, to come here and ask for your thoughts. The truth is, I don't really trust in a cheap cable like 1.5$, but if it's doing its job, then okay, sure, why not. But if I buy the Belkin, is there any chance that I'm going to make a better choice with it?