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I an planning on modding an Aerocool Cylon case since while I like the case, it doesn't have much in the way of airflow in the front panel and the RGB is also not addressable. For the front panel, I plan on cutting a few hole then cover it with air filters in order to increase the airflow while still preventing dust from coming in. As of now I have 2 plans for it. I was wondering which one I should go for. The first does allow for more airflow but it does remove quite a lot of material. I am planning of reinforcing the panel in this case. It will also hit the PCB of the RGB of the front panel but I plan on replacing it with an addressable one anyway. On the topic of RGB, while removing the RGB that came with the case, I found that the strip itself had 3 pins. I was wondering if its possible (and safe) to reuse the strip and just buy a 3 pin to VDG adapter or maybe other things could be done so I can keep it since other strips that I an finding in are either too long or too short for the case (the strip is 45 cm). If it is possible to just use a 3 pin to VDG adapter, will I be able control it with programs like aura sync?

So I was scrolling Facebook marketplace and I saw this for sale. Not sure if it's an original Xbox. The hard drives don't look secured but I thought it was funny so that's why I'm posting it here. (Not my ad and not my item)

I know there is a mount on the case but my card gets too close to the glass panel and it will effect performance. Looked into Phanteks Vertical GPU mount but it may require case modding. I would like to stay away from case modding. If anyone knows a vertical mount that will suit my needs please help me out!

Hey Does anybody know a power button module which fits in a 5.25" drive bay ? Thank You!

Hi everyone, I have been planning to mod and repaint my case, and part of the project was to take the whole thing apart. However, since the case was originally held together by rivets, that meant having to permanently remove them and replace them with something, ideally screws as to make future dis/reassemblies more convenient. Since the rivet holes prohibited threading the sheet metal itself, my only option were inserts. I first thought of using rivnuts, which I already had. However, those required pretty big holes even for M3 or M4 screws, and wouldn't provide a flat surface which would be problematic for reassembly. I then considred weldnuts, but since I have as much welding experience as I do access to welding equipement, I wrote that option out pretty quickly.The option I choose to go for were these, self-clinching threaded inserts: These are meant to be pressed into steel sheets using a arbor press of some kind, and when done well are reasonably sturdy while providing a nice flush surface. Sadly, they turned out to be pretty hard to find online as McMasterCarr doesn't ship to canadians who aren't a business, but I did manage to order a set of 50 M3 and another 50 M4s for $13 CAD each on Walmart (of all places): https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/S-M4-0-Carbon-Steel-Self-Clinching-Rivet-Nut-100pcs-for-0-8mm-Thin-Plates/PRD4QOL5V292M6E. I also got some assortments of metric screws from Amazon for about $20 CAD: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08HXTTYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I tried pressing in the inserts with a vice I made in shop class years ago, but that was not enough to get inserts to stick properly (obviously). I then gave in and bought a proper press on Amazon for about $150 CAD :https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B015PXHAPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Once I had everything, I got to work. As I drilled out the rivets, I made sure to take note of where I would have to install which inserts, as I bought M4s for the "main" mounting points and M3s for the smaller areas that wouldn't accomodate the diameter of the M4s. Then I got to installing the inserts. The whole thing went pretty smoothly, even though some inserts were harder to reach with the press then others. That affordable little press proved strong enough to reliably install the inserts permanently into the sheet metal. I did need to reinstall a few of them after a test assembly of the case, but I'm now pretty confident that they are all gonna survive multiple assemblies and disassemblies. Here is the result: assdf And voilà, the case is now fully held together by screws. While the result is both sturdy and much more useable, all the pressing did cause some deformation in the panels, which led to a small amount of wobble once assembled.This shouldn't be too much of a problem, I'll probably just have to figure out a constraining jig for the final assembly. Overall, while the result is very satisfying, it still did come at a cost: 25 for the inserts, 20 for the screws, and about 150 for the press. This is pretty expensive all considred to just avoid having to use regular nuts and bolts, but if you have access to a press already, I recommend this method. I'm probably gonna do a writeup on this whole project once the case is done painting, but this won't happen until spring as I still need to sand and prime and paint, all things that are better done outside. I just wanted to post this early, as I imagine this is a pretty common problem encoutered by case modders. Hope this helped someone!

I was wondering if it was possible to use one of these type of switches to power on my pc, I was planning to put the wires in through my Side panel to short them by turning the key and pressing the button, I got the idea off tiktok but was going to check here first to see if I was a bad idea. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294770645258 if it wouldn’t work would would some other suggestions be, I don’t really want to drill into my case

This fits into "hobby" in my mind because it was done for the fun of it and I consider tinkering with electronics a hobby of mine. (But if it's the wrong forum feel free to move it?) Saw the latest video mentioned a Xbox Series S PC case mod coming up and wanted to style/dab a bit with an "Simpsons did it" of my own. My album with descriptions of the mod I did to an basic xbox one console. PC case, PC Power supply, water cooling, RAID stripped HDD. https://imgur.com/a/EZuso Also, I know the video and output of the one LTT does is going to blow mine out of the water. In my defense I don't have a sweet workshop like they do.

Hey all, I had a air flow thermal problem with my donk of a GPU. So decided to design and 3D print a vertical GPU bracket myself, works a treat Thingiverse link here, pictures at bottom of page https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5173958 BUILD CPU- AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 16 Core AM4 4.9GHz CPU Processor CPU Cooler- Corsair iCUE H115i Elite Capallix 280mm Liquid CPU Cooler GPU- Asus GeForce RTX 3070 KO Gaming V2 OC 8G LHR Graphics Card Motherboard- MSI MAG B550M Bazooka AM4 mATX Motherboard RAM- Corsair 32GB (4x8GB) Vengeance RGB Pro SL 3600MHz DDR4 RAM - White SSD- Samsung 1TB 970 EVO Plus M.2 NVMe SSD Case- Corsair Crystal 280X Tempered Glass mATX White Power supply- Corsair 750W RM750x White Gold Modular

This is a special treat for all SFF fans, I wanted to do something elegant and simple. The front panel, graphics card backplate as well as the CPU waterblock are vinyl wrapped, haven't used any real wood.

In Silent Hill we have the Otherworld, this is what I imagine Antec's Dark Cube case would look like in that world. If you're a fan of the franchise, you should recognize the knife Btw this was my entry for Germany's Case Mod Championship (DCMM) in Cologne this year, didn't win but hell it was fun to make and to participate

just watch this video Country: USA System Config: - Machine Hewlett-Packard - 20-d013w - Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro (64-bit) - Memory 16 GB - Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-3470 CPU @ 3.20GHz - Motherboard Hewlett-Packard - 2AE5 - Video Cards NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030 - Monitors 100002480 - Hard Disk DOGFISH SSD 256GB (256.0 GB) - Network Card Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller

Is it possible to do without too many modifications to the case? Or would it just be easier to get a new case?

Hello LTT community! Finally upgrading from the Fx Platform. This was not my first build, though it was my first hard tubing job. Some of you may notice the slanted tubing, the first mobo I had failed and I had this Gigabyte 970A ds3p on hand. Luckily the socket location was close enough that the original tubes fit. At the time my intentions were to just get the pc working and in a year or so upgrade and redo the loop. Well its been 5 ish years since that day and the time has come! Old build -R9 380 w/ Painted Shroud (upgraded this to a gtx1650) -EK water block and fittings -PETG tubing -Alpha cool reservoir -XSPC Rad -Cougar A500 psu -Corsair sp 120's on rad -Fractal silent series R2 exhaust fan -White 24 pin and pcie cable extensions -Kingston 250gb and Samsung 1tb ssd -Gigabyte 970A ds3p Motherboard -Fractal Design Define C case New Build - GPU to be (determined) gtx 1650 for now -R5 3600 - Stock AMD Wraith cooler -MSI B550m Mortar wifi Motherboard -Cougar A500 psu -Fractal Define C case -Corsair sp 120 exhaust -black Corsair fans x2 intake (not sure on the model they came with a case) - Kingston and Samsung ssd (same as old build) Moving away form liquid cooling for now. I may do a custom loop again but I specifically want to use a tower cooler. I'll be reusing the Define C case for this build with a few modifications. My goal is a "classy" aesthetic also I want to incorporate wood into this build. The top of the case has a removable panel, also there is a cut out in the bottom shroud with a removable panel. I remade these panels using mahogany and painted the rings on the corsair sp fans the match. Waiting on motherboard and ram now.

Hello everyone! I had a old 1966 Hickok sweep generator that didn't work so I decided to give it new life as my daily driver. test.mp4 Case operation: The Blanking and XTAL toggle switches are power and reset. The Marker MOD toggle switch controls the lights to the frequency dials and the Marker function selector switch controls the case fan speeds. There are lot of other switches to use, I kept them all functional, but not many other functions to hook them up to sadly. I started by disassembling the case, removing the components, and cleaning up the front plate. I then added LEDs to the frequency dials. Next I laid out out all my components and marked all the holes and cutouts. I used a nibbler cutout the PSU mount. The case was mostly made of copper and thin steel which made it great for cutting out custom holes. IO sheild cutout. I crafted custom IO shields and mounts inside the case out of perforated copper. IO shield mounted on the inside. I added 4-120mm Noctua fans. I created a template in CAD for drilling out the holes. All the cutouts are complete. Mounting the case fans, drives, and PSU. The bottom and right fans pull air in the case and the top two fans exhaust. I have two 4tb spin drives and Raid 1, one 1tb sdd, and two M.2 1tb drives on the mobo. Routing all the cables was a challenge in the size of a case but this build was about the exterior and not the interior. I could be a bit sloppy as long as it didn't mess the airflow too much. It lives!!! I wanted to use as many of the switches as I could in the build. I replaced the Blanking and XTAL toggle switch with momentary toggle switches and used them for power and reset. The Marker toggle switch was wired for the LEDs on the frequency dials. The old pilot light was connected to the chassis so I isolated it from the standoff and connected it to the power light on the motherboard. Lastly, I was using the Noctua FLX fans so I wired low speed adaptor in parallel with the power cable using the Marker function selector switch. Its nice to be able to have a quite case when I'm not gaming. Lastly, I installed two more USB ports on the top of the case for my headset and phone. Specs: MSI X570 MPG gaming AMD 5800x 32gb ram 3200mhz GTX 1080 (someday it will be a 6800xt) 2 - 1tb M.2 2 - 4tb spinners in Raid 1 1 - 1tb ssd

Hi I'm looking for some helpim planning on building my own pc case and is there any way to have 4 switches to turn on a PSU then pump then lights then pc monitor then I will need a momentary switch to turn on the mb ? I want each switch to turn on something different

It's truly easy peasy. I knew it wasn't going to be hard, but I didn't expect it to be so easy. lol Painting the darn thing turned out harder than making it to begin with. Stupidly held the spray paint too long in one spot while the second coat wasn't dry enough yet. Bubbled it up. So I had to let it dry completely and sand it down. Repainted it, aaaaaaaand it flops out of my hand as I was unsticking it to let the edge dry and it lands top down on the newspaper I was covering the table with, which of course stuck to it. lol REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!! Third times a charm I guess... Hang it from something if you can. I didn't have anywhere to do that so I had to use a table. Everything except the cable grommet is available at home depot. The acrylic sheet was only 6 something bucks. 5 bucks for the plastic cutter knife. 21 bucks for the heat gun. 4 for the paint. lol 4 more bucks for more paint if you're me... Sigh... 5 bucks for acrylic adhesive if you're making a side wall like mine since I have bottom intake fans. 3 bucks for the cable grommet if you want a hole. And you got yourself a nice shroud. Fun little project that makes your PC look loads better if your case doesn't come with a shroud. Since there are already so many how to vids on how to measure and then bend the acrylic, the only thing I have to add is if you're gluing on a piece. Use acrylic glue similar to what's shown in my pic. It's not actual glue, I just don't know what else to call it. Instead of simply gluing the two pieces together, it melts it and makes a weld. A weld that turned out stronger than the acrylic itself as I found out when I tried to pull apart my test piece the next day and it broke off at where I was grabbing it instead of the weld breaking. That's another thing I'll add. Test it first. Had I just started off with the shroud I would have had a big drop run down the side of the shroud. The glue says medium body, referring to its thickness, but that's pretty much meaningless unless you know that type of material. Something like that makes it loads easier to sand down the seam without having to worry about it coming apart as opposed to something like super glue which isn't going to be nearly as strong.