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UPDATE: The project is complete! See my final photos below thanks for following everyone! Till next time! ============================================================================================================================================================================================ [COMPLETE] Howdy! Well, here's my first build log on the LTT forums have been on other forums but figured I'd post here as well [COMPLETE] The title says it, this is Project Adamantium. The inspiration came about because I wanted to do a silver/black build in order to be color neutral so that my RGB Led's would compliment the build no matter what I decided to set them to. Adamantium I chose because it sounds cool and is silver (For those that don't know, it's the metal that Wolverine's 'claws' are made out of). To start out here is a parts list of what will be in this build. Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M AcrylicCPU: i7-6800kGPU: GTX 1080 FE (OC = 2126mhz)Mobo: MSI X99 Gaming Pro CarbonRAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator PlatinumPSU: EVGA Supernova 1000 G2SSD: 500GB Samsung 850 EVOSSD: 480GB OCZ TR150 Watercooling Parts going in this build:EK-Supremacy EvoEK-FC1080 GTXEK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual)EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple)EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 NickelEK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 ( 1 black and 2 nickel)EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - BlackEK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - BlackBitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (is a more stiff rotary fitting) PrimoChill RevolverSX Silver fittings (12 Pieces) PrimoChill 1/2" PETG tubing Lighting will be handled by NZXT's Hue+ I'll be back shortly with parts photos ============================================================================================================================================================================================ [FINAL PHOTOS]

Hi guys, Welcome back to another one of my build logs! This time I am working on the newly released Corsair Crystal 570X tempered glass case! I would like to thank everyone at Corsair for giving me the opportunity to work on this case as I know this was sent to a group of elite modders world wide! I'm simply honored to be considered for this and see myself up there with the talented people that I look up to and inspire my work! The 570X is a case with tempered glass on pretty much all sides and it's truly a stunning case. My build will be all about elegance and luxury as well as drawing a bit of inspiration from the crystal series name. SPECS: Case – Corsair Crystal 570X Motherboard – TBA CPU – TBA Memory – 4 x 4GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000Mhz DDR4 RAM GPU – TBA SSD – 240GB Corsair Force LE SSD PSU – TBA Custom Cables - CableMod Cooling Corsair H100i V2 Corsair HD120 RGB Fans To start off the build log I did a quick unboxing presentation of the case. I hope you guys enjoy it and stay tuned for more! Cheers, Alex

Hi guys, Alex here back with another build log! I think it's been a while since I've been on the forums now, a lot of stuff has been happening! I'm very happy however to bring you guys another build log with the very exclusive IN WIN D-Frame 2.0 NVIDIA Edition chassis! I am super excited to be working on this build as I find this chassis absolutely stunning! I'm not sure if there are many NVIDIA edition versions of this case around at the moment, I definitely know that this is the only one in Australia which makes it a huge privilege so I hope I can do it justice with a nice build in it! The mods are not gonna be anything too crazy as I really don't want to change much on such a stunning case nor do I want to paint or drill into it! I will be creating some custom panels from acrylic and adding some nice vinyl effects as people that follow my work have come to expect from my builds! I'm calling this one IN WIN DUKE, simply because the frame resembles the inner chassis of a Ducati motorcycle so nice and easy with the name there! It's an honour again to be able to do this and have the opportunity to work with such amazing companies. The sponsors on this build are IN WIN, NVIDIA, ASUS, Western Digital, AVEXIR, Bitspower, CableMod and for the first time ever for one of my builds, INTEL, with a very unexpected package as you will from the specs below! You can find more information about the respective vendors in the links below and follow their channels if you wish: Intel - https://www.facebook.com/intelaustralia NVIDIA - https://www.facebook.com/NvidiaANZ ASUS - https://www.facebook.com/asusaustralia IN WIN - https://www.facebook.com/INWINANZ Western Digital - https://www.facebook.com/WDAustralia AVEXIR - https://www.facebook.com/AVEXIR Bitspower - https://www.facebook.com/Bitspower CableMod - https://www.facebook.com/CableMod Hope you guys enjoy this one! SPECS: Case – IN WIN D-Frame 2.0 NVIDIA Edition Motherboard – ASUS X99 Deluxe II CPU – Intel Core i7 6950X Memory – 8 x 4GB AVEXIR Core White & Green LED DDR4 GPU – 2x NVIDIA GTX 1080 Founders Edition SLI - NVIDIA 3-Slot High Bandwidth Bridge SSD – 120GB AVEXIR S100 Green LED HDD - 4TB Western Digital Red Pro PSU – In Win S-III 1065W Cables & LEDs - CableMod Radiators – 360mm Bitspower Leviathan Extreme, 2 x 120mm Bitspower Leviathan Slim Fans – 5 x In Win Aurora 120mm fans Pump – Bitspower DDC Plus with Bitspower Premium DDC Mod Top Reservoir – 2 x Bitspower Hexagon Reservoirs Fittings – Various Bitspower Black Sparkle Fittings Tubing – Bitspower Crystal Link 16mm PETG CPU/MB Block – Bitspower AIX99D Full Cover Water Block And without any further delays, here's a good look at the case and fans that arrived from IN WIN! Thanks for checking it out guys and stay tuned for more! Cheers, Alex

Hi! was wondering if anyone knows about possible ways to preferably buy a custom laptop housing, especially with my weird requirements. What I'm Looking For - - Transparent (clear housing) - Fits existing machine (a little bit of tinkering can be acceptable) - said machine has good enough specs to run basic Linux application (and a bit more) - not custom order (as im on a very tight budget) Going for a more 90s-mid 2000's hackers the movie vibe if you catch my drift... strange i know, but it suits me. I will attach some photos of ones i have found online (only 1 or 2) This is a bit of a needy post but... thanks

Yep! I did it! Well? no... but I did it! And it looks ok! We used a circular hand saw to cut into the side panel and used car trim to round the edges, after that we took some clear acrylic and cut it to size and hot glued it. Any questions? Feel free to ask! for now BYE!

I am getting custom work done for my Corsair 760t case, what I am getting added is a psu shroud which is non existent on the case in the first place. I am just gonna place the measurements and the design I chose for it just in case if anyone had the same idea but does not have the time to work on measurements. Enjoy Modeled by me in Cinema 4D, it has a grommet added on the top for the front IO connectors as well. Goodluck modders

Intro To start things off this is my first ever case build and DIY project involving aluminium and possible other metals. As of this my techniques may not be correct and the tools I use may be incorrect. Saying all of this I expect to have a good finish and to achieve a few goals (for the case and computer to go in it). The first of these is a computer which blends into its surroundings and acts as the furniture. It will achieve this by being very clean (nothing fancy in the design). Next I want a computer which is as quiet as possible. This will be achieved by having minimal fans and minimal power draw (power efficient components). 3rd it has to be powerful. This computer when complete will be my daily driver and therefore needs to be able to perform as I require. The components are yet to be selected but may include a Zen CPU when released. The final requirement is for the case to cost as little money as possible. This does not mean it will skimp on quality but more means every purchase will be taken into account and carefully planned. I do not expect this case project (leading into the computer project) to go 100% smoothly but that is the fun of it all. It will take some time to complete but my plan is to have the case finished by the end of the summer and the computer finished at maximum in a year (if all goes to plan). The reason for this long time scale is I want to see what the Zen CPU's by AMD are like and as they are yet to be released I cannot currently see this. The next reason (and the bigger one) is I don't have the money. This will come slowly but currently I am raising money for a school in Africa which I am also helping in the building process and once this is finished I will be a student at uni and so will have next to no money. The project (plan) So here goes everything I have done so far. just so you know the current estimated cost is about £40. Project started - 24/6/2015 current project plan: Make a small form factor PC which is just as powerful as a full tower (the motherboard will be very important to add this ability). Possibly make into a tube otherwise make a small shell to go around the components. The computer should be able to fit full size graphics cards. Computer will be named Stuxnet after the computer worm which affected industrial programmable logic controllers in nuclear power plants (possible theme based around this). Colours will be white/grey, yellow and green. You may have noticed above I mentioned tube. This was from my original plan (yes I went through a lot of planning). I almost went through with a tube but what stopped me was either the price, strength or size. Starting with the price looking for metal tubes the right size would cost a fortune. I cannot remember the price but I do remember it was over £200 and would have to be shipped from America (from where I found it) and therefore following the resent Brexit it would be more now. Following this I started looking at products I could buy and take the tube from them. Metal bins looked promising but it proved very difficult to find one the correct high and diameter. I would have settled on one with a bigger diameter so I could get the high but the problem here was the metal used for the tube was thin and week. Not good for a computer case. So now with that scraped I started looking for an easy way to build a tube. For this I settled on a hexagon for the shape. The choice here was partially due to looking nice, no computer case as far as I could see used this shape and SketchUp which I used for modelling had this selected by default. A hexagon would be simple (just about) to make. I could make this with aluminium angles bent to shape and aluminium bars (later changed to steel). The planning for this was all done on ShetchUp and influenced by YouTube videos from a channel called DIYPerks. I guess this is also the time I settled on the case name (different to the computer name). This is Hive. The build build start time: 5/7/2016 (dd/mm/yyyy) materials used: aluminium angle (15mm x 15mm x 2500mm) Finally, onto the build! So now with the bulk of the planning out the way (more will be changed during the build I'm sure) it’s time to start building. I started by going to my local DIY store to pick up the aluminium bars and angles. The angles were fine and felt strong. The bars on the other hand were very week and I feel with my design these would bend. My design has all the weight being suspended from the top (the centre of mass will be in the middle of the computer (ish). I purchased the angles but left the bars. Once home I could start cutting and bending the aluminium angle into shape. I chose to go slightly bigger than my model so I would have a better time measuring and more room to play with. If you are yet to notice, the aluminium angles will be the top and bottom of the case along with a few supports here and there. The bars on the other hand will be the supports connecting the top and bottom of the case together. These therefore have to be strong which the aluminium is not. Fixing this problem can be completed with a few solutions. First the aluminium could be changed to steel. This is strong enough but will cost slightly more (by a few pounds). Next aluminium angles could be used which are strong and would cost around the same as the bars. Finally, long screw threaded circular bars could be used with adapters. This is likely to cost a lot less but would take away from the aesthetics inside the case. As of yet this decision is still being made but I am weighing more to the steel bars. I started the build with the top and bottom hexagons. These were made with the aluminium angles. On the model these are shown as just over 108mm long per side. I upped this to 110mm per side for the real thing. This will have a couple of reactions. The first and most important being more room to play with. This will best help with the motherboard which would have about 2mm room either side of it before it hit the case. Now it will have about 8mm each side. The next reaction is negative being more material is needed. I don’t know about the cost increase yet but it should not be much as I did not increase the size by much. Any other reactions are undetermined so far. So back to the case. The aluminium angle had slides removed from one side. Each of these are in the corners of the case and are 60 degrees slices. Once cut identically (as close as I could get) the angle could be bent into shape. I don’t have any special tools for this so I clamped down the metal and used my hands. On the first attempt I realized I was 5 degrees out on all corners. This was a quick fix. The bending went successfully with the only drawback being a slight misalignment on both the top and bottom. This will be fixed later. That is it for this update. I will add more in the near future.

This project is just a small build for my friend who is down in Sydney staying with me for a week. This pc was bought off ebay around 2 years ago for $500 and since then we have swapped everything out for cheap parts we have found along the way. The only thing that has survived the overhaul is the i5 cpu which is still performing for his needs. With a bit of time up my sleeves I decided to make it look nice and fancy with some new fans, a new case and a can of spray paint. With a small budget of $200, I had to work with what I could get so between the left over parts at my house and what we could get cheap this is what happened. Lets get right into it. CPU: i5 4570 CPU Cooler: DeepCool Gamer Storm Gabriel Motherboard: Asrock Z97 Pro4 LGA1150 Ram: 2x Corsair Vengeance Pro (2x 4GB) 2x Corsair Dominator (2x 2GB) Graphics Card: ASUS Radeon R9 270X Power Supply: Corsair VS550 Fans: 2x Thermaltake Riing 120mm 2x CoolerMaster Blue Led 120mm Case: Corsair Spec-Alpha Mid Tower (Grey/Black) Hard drives: 1TB Seagate Baracuda Samsung 850 Evo 250gb M.2 Total: Sub $1000 AUD Update 1: 270X Colour Change Update 2: Case Deconstruction Update 3: Painting Finished Update 4: Case Reconstruction Update 5: Case Interior

Hi guys, I'm back with another case mod, this time with Corsair! I'll be using their SPEC-ALPHA case to create a special case mod to showcase the new ASUS STRIX GTX 1080 graphics cards! This project will be inspired by an HRC (High Resolution Computers Shop) build in the same case. For those that don't know HRC, you can check out their page here and the SPEC-ALPHA mod they did here. When I say inspired, I mean the open-frame design of the build, I'll be doing some things a bit different I'd like to thank NVIDIA ANZ, ASUS ANZ, Corsair, Bitspower and CableMod for their support on this build! I'd also like to thank all those who follow my build logs or follow my page through social media and share the same passion with me! All my builds would not be the same without sharing them with all of you! I'm on a very strict deadline to get this build finished for an upcoming event so the build log updates may sometimes be delayed to what I'm actually working on. Hope you guys will enjoy this one! Onto the SPECS: CASE - Corsair Carbide SPEC-ALPHA CPU - Intel Core i7 5930K MB - ASUS ROG STRIX X99 Gaming GPU - 2 x ASUS STRIX GTX 1080s SLI - NVIDIA High Bandwidth SLI Bridge 3-Slot RAM - 64GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2800Mhz (8x8GB) with Light Bar Upgrade Kit SSD - Corsair Force LE 480GB x 2 PSU - Corsair HX1000i Custom Cables & LEDs - CableMod Custom Watercooling CPU - Bitspower Summit EF RES - Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi (Clear acrylic) PUMP - Bitspower DDC Plus with Bitspower DDC Upgrade Kit RAD - Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme 360 FITTINGS - Bitspower Matte Black - various TUBING - Bitspower 12mm Acrylic FANS - Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition x 4 COOLANT - Mayhems Aurora Silver I'll start of with a pic of the Corsair hardware all together! I'm also planning on doing a few video updates for this build as well. Stay tuned, should be an exciting build/mod! Cheers, Alex

As most of you know most of the acrylic in cases tend to be very easy to scratch so i was wondering if anyone has ever has every decided to just get a case with acrylic and replace it with tempered glass or just regular glass. I can get sheets of glass pretty cheap at my local home depot and i have been looking for a source for tempered glass. Have any of you ever tried replacing the acrylic in a case with something else and do any of you know where to go buy tempered glass? EDIT: i plan on doing the replacement with the phanteks p400 since ive heard that the acrylic is soft enough to scratch with just your finger nails.

Helloooooo Internet! Thank you so much for checking out my new case mod, Project Royale! This will be my second major case mod, this one inside of the In-Win S-Frame, consisting of mods which I have not performed on an S-Frame before. I am looking forward to getting started! Please check out my first mod, project gSquared here. The color scheme will be Black, Blue and Gold, as I will be showcasing the original finish of the S-Frame, which is the best finish I have ever seen on a case. Now, let's start off with some specs: CPU - Intel Core i7-5930k (Received) Motherboard - Asus Rampage V Extreme (Received) RAM - 64gb of Corsair Dominator Platinums @ 2400mhz (Received) GPU - 3x Asus Geforce GTX 980ti Strix OC (Received) PSU - EVGA 1000G 1000W (Received) Storage - Something m.2, not decided yet. Case - In-Win S-Frame (Received) Cooling: TBD Control: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Lighting: Aquacomputer Farbwerk I will be liquid cooling this monster, but I am not sure what products I will be using. Stay Tuned! Mods: - Relocate Power Supply to main compartment by creating custom plate - Install 480mm Radiator in original PSU compartment - Create Mount Plate for Dual D5 pumps, which will run in serial. - Create cover plate for HDD Bay Slots, then mount Aquaero to this plate - Cut hole for cable routing - Custom wiring for all wires - Create cover plate for front I/O (I am not too sure whether or not this will happen, depends on how easily I will be able to sleeve the USB 3.0 wires) - Drill passthrough holes for pipes - Find something to create more space between the rear glass panel and the back panel of the case, so that I will be able to place pipes back there Now that all of that is out of the way, let's get to some photos! Some renders of the project: (These were based on EK Blocks and Blue Bitspower Fittings, but these are not final) Product Photo Bomb, Incoming!!!!! A couple Pics of the 5930k. I purchased it used, so it still has a bit of TIM on it. All six cores of awesomeness are visible in this photo! ;P Some RAM from the Gods right here. It's watching you.... Aaaand now for the most beastly motherboard I have ever seen, period! Loaded up. There's something about 8 DIMM slots filled with Dom Plats that gives me an immeasurable amount of satisfaction. A crap ton of accessories are included with this board, it's insane! Oh, and one more PCB Traces! Now I realize these aren't 1080's but I got them at a killer deal, so I GUESS these will have to do... The backplates on these cards look killer! And now, the main event! This shot is to really show off the beautiful finish of the case, with Brushed/flat black and gold accents. I love it so much I am going to keep it! Here are a few shots with the hardware loaded up... Well, that is all for now, the next update should consist of starting the modifications. Thanks for looking! Dawson

Hi so i just recently finished doing a sleeper PC build where i basically pimp my ancient HP Pavilion a1747c desktop buy putting new components into it im very pleased with the results of that project so i decided why not endeavor with a new project pc. ive done some research and i saw powermac g5 towers for pretty cheap on craigslist. despite how i dont like apple insanely expensive their products are, i cant help but to like how well engineered the chassis for the powermac g5 is. i was wondering if anyone on this forum has ever modded the powermac g5 case so that it supports standard ATX components. and how hard would it be to mod the case? i might plan on using the case for a future build or to house my Xeon mod build that i have in this shitty thermaltake chassis. if anyone has done this mod before can you guys tell me how hard was it so i can know what to expect from doing this. Thanks guys.

I was trying to find a good place to mount a SSD in my little brothers XPS 420 and thought that the Excelerator module could be a good place to mount it since he does not use it. So I took out the circuit boards and cut the one with the pluggs on it so that i could fit the SSD but still have the pluggs come out of the front so that it looks stock. Here are a few pictures:

Hi so my dad finally decided to get rid of this ancient HP Pavilion PC from 2005 and i decided that the case would make a great project case for a sleeper PC to bring to my school's gamer club, and also to be able to bring to LAN parties or conventions without raising unwanted attention or potential theft. The HP case that im using is a HP Pavilion a1747c. it was originally running windows xp but when my dad bought it back in 2007 it was reoutfitted to run windows vista 32 bit with no dedicated video card. fast forward to 2016 and now that rig is too slow to do even simple web browsing without lagging. hell it cant even run minecraft on lowest settings. i will post follow ups on the status of this build in the comment section so feel free to follow this post for that, so far on this forum i have only seen 1 or 2 sleeper PC projects posts out there. for those of you that dont know what a sleeper PC is, its based of the sleeper car concept in the automotive world. I will post updates on how this build is going if you guys want to know.

Hey guys! My name is Connor, I co-own Affinity Collective which is a small time technology channel on YouTube, we use our channel to obviously create videos but also for learning. We have gotten a lot better with filming and editing techniques, but all criticism is appreciated! But lets get on to the meat and potatoes... So I had some extra wood lying around... and I had my computer... So I decided to build a computer case out of wood! To be fair it's a little rough, but for spending less then $60.00 in materials, it's pretty sweet! Watch The Video On It Here (Spoiler: Contains Some Bokehlicious B-Roll) As you'll see in the video, the case was built using 98% 1/2" Birch Plywood, and then a couple pieces of 2x4 just for a stand off inside the bottom piece. The windows are all made using some 1/4 " Acrylic I got from Lowes. I used a table saw for almost all of the cutting, and the occasional use of a band saw for some of the angled pieces. I had a belt sander I used, and then a couple of drill bits for holes. It was put together with a small brad nailer. After I sanded the final product, I gave it a Special Walnut Stain that's dark enough to look okay with all of my black peripherals, and I put a semi-gloss poly coat on it as well so it would hold up a little bit better. This was my first time building anything like this, so it was a learning process for sure... Next time I'm going to try building a more minimalist design so it'll fit more conveniently in my dorm for college. Thanks guys! **Please note** The computer is not on fire! It's just for effect for still shots in B-Roll! It makes it a bit more interesting!

How would i go about modding a set of handles onto a small case such as the define nano s

Hi guys, Been a while since I've been active on the forums I've been super busy with a new job, move to a different city and pretty much a whole new life! Glad to say that I'm back and with a very exciting project! As the banner suggests it will be based on the Dead Space games and it's my entry for this year's Cooler Master Case Mod World Series as well as the ANZ Edition of the "World Series". I am going all out with for this project and trying some modding techniques I haven't done before so stay tuned and enjoy the build log! I'm gonna give a little hint and say that this will NOT be a clean build I would like to say a huge thanks to Cooler Master Australia for giving me this opportunity as well as ASUS Australia, Kingston HyperX, Avexir, Bitspower, Primochill, CableMod, PLE Computers and a new addition from a friend of mine, Kristian from MercoMods! SPECS Case - Cooler Master MasterCase 5 Maker Motherboard - ASUS Maximus VIII Extreme Assembly CPU - Intel i7 6700K Memory - 4 x 4GB Avexir ROG Certified Red Tesla 2400Mhz DDR4 GPU - 2 x ASUS STRIX GTX 980 SSD - 2 x Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB SSDs PSU - Cooler Master V1000 Cables - CableMod Fully Custom Individually Sleeved Cables + MercoMods Custom Braided Extensions LEDs - CableMod Magnetic RGB LED Strip Radiators - Bitspower Leviathan Slim 240 Radiator, Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme 360 Radiator Fans - CoolerMaster JetFlo 120mm Red and White LED fans Pump - Laing D5 with Black Bitspower MOD Package - Pump Top + Casing Reservoir - Bitspower D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 with Cascade Tube Effect Fittings - PrimoChill Revolver SX Matte Black + Various Bitspower Carbon Black angle fittings and extensions Tubing - PrimoChill Copper Tubing CPU Block - Bitspower Summit EF GPU Block - 2 x Bitspower VG-NGTX980ADIIS For now I'll start with the packages received from Cooler Master A mysterious box (though the thread title might hint at what's inside) JetFlo fans and a V1000 power supply Stay tuned for more guys! Cheers, Alex

Hello everyone, i have a thermallake core v21 micro atx cube chassis. i want to do a modification on the case and add a optical drive bay/ 5.25 inch multi memory card reader. anyone has any ideas about how i should go about this.

Hey guys! It's been a while and my craving to cut aluminum and acrylic had reached its limits! I have an upcoming case mod project for EVGA's "Gear Up with EVGA" program. EVGA was kind enough to support this project of mine with their awesome components. I will call this project "Dark DragonBlade" and this project will be based on the character of the game "Overwatch", Genji. I just started drawing up a concept for the project just last week and this might take a while. I need to get some office stuff/work out of my way before I can go full blast on this project so please bear with me. Here's a quick sketch that I made for the front panel. I will be modding a Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 for this project. The design is just a week old so it might still change (hopefully not). The color scheme for this project will be black/green mainly because that's my favorite color combination. Genji is the samurai character on the Overwatch game and he has white/silver/green color scheme on him. Since I am using black/green color scheme, I might just called this project "Dark Samurai". I am not sure yet about the name but "Dark Samurai" sounds good. For now. EVGA was quick to send their awesome PC components to me. It only took em 2 days (I live in Canada)! EVGA and Thermaltake will be my sponsors for this project. EVGA's 1000G Power supply looks solid and sexy as hell! They have sent me their Super clocked EVGA DDR4 Memory modules too. Evga X99 Classified motherboard. This is one hell of a sexy looking motherboard. This part though, since I am going with black/green theme, I will paint this up to matte black or green. Can't decide yet but will definitely change the color of this to go with the theme. And this guy, when I opened up the box last week, seeing this beast made my jaw dropped on the floor! EVGA GTX 980 Ti Classified! Even the packaging is just awesome. Here is the case that will be murdered on this project. CoolerMaster MasterCase Pro 5. I apologize for the smudges of fingerprints around the case. In the next week or two, I will keep on pushing on completing the sketch/concept for this project. Hopefully I can finish some deadlines and other stuff back at work so I can start wildly cutting up acrylic sheets and aluminum for this project. I apologize for the quality of photo, I am still working on my photography skills which obviously needs A LOT of work. Well, that's it for me right now, will put up updates as soon as I can. Wish me luck!

"WD Bonk" Hello all, This is my second scratch built case, It's a case that's designed to be a replacement for a friends ageing case, The name "Bonk" is a shortening of his nickname and I thought it was a fun name for a scratch build. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I've been doing a lot of hacksawing, filing and scribing markings for holes and design boundaries. A whole lot of this happened, filing the aluminium for precise edges. Result of a lot more work than it looks, all markings scribed ready for drilling and hacksawing. I'm in for a whole load of filing for this case.

Welcome to the beginning of a project I've been wanting to do for a long time! I'm pairing up with @broadbandaddict from OCN to create the mod. The general idea is, "Mad Max style, well used and older, kind of thrown together. A bit of rust is good but no fancy paint and sanded bare metal for most of it. Would be cool to rust it so it looks like it broke in the past. A couple of leaky water lines or something." A few of our concept ideas included: Oil filters to cap both ends of the EK reservoir Lamptron FC10 vacuum tube fan controller Shower hoses/automotive electrical conduit for cable sleeving Rusting the steel case Top of the case will have a functioning engine head block Green liquid Combination of UV lights to illuminate the liquid and orange lights to wash the rest of the components Brushed steel look So here it begins. The Corsiar C70 will be stripped of paint this weekend by broadbandaddict . I will track down the aesthetics (lighting, motors, engine parts) and start assembling the reservoir and water cooling components. At that point we'll grab some dremels and airbrushes and get to work on the details of the case. The components are yet to be determined. P.S. we will be a little behind as we're just finishing up the 8k Rackmount Render Server build.

So, this is my very first post, and not even in my native language... so please be kind What is this about? As you may guess, it's an illumination modification from the standard Razer's acid-green to a IR controlled RGB led stripe, on the NZXT H440 case. (Actually, it looks better than the photo... damn cellphone's cameras) How difficult is this mod for me to perform? Well, OCD aside, it's quite simple. That, of course, depending on how much time and effort you wanna put onto it. How much does it cost? Around US$ 30/40 (assuming you already have all the tools) What do I need to perform it? 12V RGB LED Stripe (duh), 2 or 3 m IR LED controller Precision wire cutter Knife or Cutter Phillip screwdriver (N°1 will do) Soldering iron Tin (I recommend a 0.8 mm diameter) Thermal-shrink tubes (for about 2mm, 5mm and 10mm final contraction) 5m of 22 or 24 AWG wire (an ethernet patchcord CAT 5e or 6 will do) Zip ties, electrical tape, wire ties (optional). Glue gun (optional) OK, lets get started... BEFORE ANYTHING Think! Visualize what you want, then draw it on a piece of paper, a nap, or whatever you have in order to calculate wire longitudes, paths and final layout. Even better, surf the web for ideas, past experiences from other users, and tips and recommendations. When you're on unexplored waters, you definitely want to have a compass... or a great amount of faith Also, make sure your workplace is wide and tidy, I can't tell you how much annoying is to lose a precision alignment or a critical soldering because you just don't want to stack away something that blocks your angle or visual. (yep, it doesn't matter how ugly you draw it, as long as you make a clear work route) Remember that the wires lengths should keep a fair amount of gain (this is: a + 10/20% of length of your base calculation) for those places where the original "diagonal-direct path" have several centimeters less that the "go neat and tidy by this path, and then over here, here and here...". If you have no trouble in cable's supply, let the maximum calculated length be the limit... and even, add a 20% more of length just in case (yep, better more than less). Of course, the stock lights need to be put aside. For the bottom ones, they are fixed by a couple of screws that holds the enclosure. Not a challenge... The side and front logo? Keep reading! And so, it begins Ok, so according to your mental blueprint, you should measure each stripe and cut it by the dotted line, followed by stripping the insulation (in case you have a water-proof stripe). A great explanation for it, as a guide in general, is provided by M-L on this post, and this images. (Always measure the length of each stripe to be LESS than the housing where you're going to use it. Remember that any cut made beyond the soldering copper, will leave the RGB LEDs inoperative) Remember that each stripe should be daisy-chained in a linear fashion, that eventually ends in a 4 pin connector that hooks up onto the RGB controller. In my case, I used the 3 pin fan hub to concentrate all the "circuits" of light, and then on the 4th pin (the +12V one), twisted all together and insulate it properly. Make sure you use the same colors in the order established by the LED stripe, or some circuits will light up different colors than expected. (Order is fundamental, take notes of every "convention" you use and stick to it, no matter what you read or what someone tells you) Also, take your time to insulate the connections properly, don't forget that this is an electric connection directly powered by your PSU (more of this later), you DON'T want a short circuit of any kind. You can accomplish this by using thermal shrink tubes of different sizes (according to the weight of your wire), electrical tape, or even a glue gun. Proper insulation is fundamental, this is an ELECTRICAL MOD (And YES, a heat gun would have been a better choice...) The PSU Shroud The first major mod will have place on Razer's logo, both on the side within the PSU shroud, and the front main logo. Regarding the side panel, the whole side panel is held by several metal "tongues", which you must straighten so the plate gets free. Once outside, four screws hold the inner case where the green light is housed. (The side panel comes out with little effort... not so the green layer of paint) Once there, comes the most hateful of all parts: removing the green layer of paint that covers the acrylic panel from the logo. (SPOILER ALERT: it won't look good) (I wish someone had told me "Dude, just DON'T") At first I tried with a pointed tweezers, but then I found that a small torx screwdriver fitted better. You may find useful whatever tool you have, as long as the job is done. Keep in mind that an inner bevel help you a little bit by letting the tool "travel" along the groove. I have no idea if a dremel drill tool with a small point could make this less hateful, but if you have one to try and come back with your expertise, BE MY GUEST. (It keeps getting worse) Anyway, no matter what I used, it was an awful experience. The type of material was a kind of synthetic paint that, even with care and patience, it peeled off and cracked it beyond the logo lines... man, I hated myself, at NZXT, and even Min-Liang Tan. You may think that the same goal could be achieved by using some kind of black tape, or even a plastic cover... but no, green-vomit paint will be. The partial solution when the cracks spread out too much, is to paint it back with a black sharpie the borders above the bevel and the inner snake pattern. Hopefully, this will make a little less horrible the final product. In any case, the final outcome will be camouflaged by the light, making this a little more hopeful... unless you get to look at it at 1 feet away (Same kind of Death was encountered at front logo) The next step will be attaching the light strips so most part of the logo gets covered. All this, aligned the most centered you can, in order to avoid light diffusion problems or unexpected shadows. Keep in mind the screw holes, and the subtle elevation that the cover has on that side of the plastic (inevitable if you want that the lights be at center respect to the logo). I even had to peel off the inner sides of the screws holes so the lights fits in properly. (Daisy-chain in a way that the cables don't make too much bump) Find the most suitable path for the cables to get out of the enclosure, in a way that they don't cause congestion and generate problems when closing the cover. Help you out by using some tape that sticks the stripes and cables to the desired position. Zip ties here won't help, since the inner space of the enclosure won't let you use them... (also, they won't help you on fix the movement. Maybe a glue gun?) The Front Logo Now, regarding the front logo: obviously it's on the front panel, and the enclosure is behind the acoustical absorption foam. This foam, of course, it's glued to the panel. Not that it's impossible to remove, but it does get difficult when the glue tears apart with the foam included. (Go easy on the foam, use your fingers by lifting it enough so the cutter goes smoothly) Make your way until the front logo panel it's at hand. Then, use the same technique used on side logo by keeping in mind the small increment on size (you'll need 5 stripes instead of 3 for full cover). (Once again, daisy-chain several stripes to cover almost every corner of the logo) When you get the stripes presented and glued/fixed/taped/whatever on position, go backwards and re-glue the foam. (Make sure you cover nicely the surface of the foam) The final step with this cover will be to glue a stripe along the mesh. I separated a couple of cm from the edge so that the light can get inside the case (at that height, the fan's stand won't cast a shadow from the lights) (Choose the side where the cables will go down so that matches with your hub location... or at least, the most shorter path) REMEMBER: the front and top panel needs additional cable length in order to give you the ability to move them and rearrange the front/top fans if needed. Except if you use a 4 pin connector between the case and the panel, you'll need approx. 20/30 cm of "loose" cable. (when closed, this cable length goes inside without zip ties). 20160119_175242000_iOS.MOV The logo won't be perfect, but at distance it's acceptable. Top Panel Just as the front panel, glue a stripe along the mesh a couple of cm of the edge, and leave enough cable for later management. (Nope, no picture of top panel... but take a look at my gorgeous cat!) Under Motherboard First step is obvious: take note of the size of your motherboard and cut the stripes accordingly. In my case, an ATX form factor takes about 2 by 4 stripes and 1 by 5. Take a look again of where are you going to connect the cables, and daisy-chain the stripes respecting that layout. The inner frame from the standoff screws gives you the path for the stripes. In this case, I found that for an inner glow that stands out without pumping out too much bright, I should follow the standoffs for the mobo, following the inner frame. At that instance, the light will come out as decoration and not so much as illumination. 20160125_174627000_iOS.MOV More or less, the MOBO light effect. Backplate light You'll need to remove the leds stands that are on the backplate, so that you can stick a single stripe onto it. The only precaution here will be that the width of that plate makes it very difficult to manage the cables to go smoothly and won't let you work comfortably. Once again, take note of the insulation of the tips of the stripes! Check the image above, I even had to cut one side of the stripe contacts so that fits in the plate. This won't affect the RBG leds since the cut it's at the end of the copper contact, and wont' brake any circuits paths. For the cable management, you may find that the narrow opening between the plate's folds won't be enough, but with patience and fitting one cable at a time, you'll make them bend over it. The On/Off light switch Originally, this case has a global on/off switch for ALL the lights on the case, but since the RGB controller can be turned off by the remote, I thought in using the switch for a A/B light configuration. The light switch has two modes for operation, not just an "on/off" capability. Again, since you have previously invested an amount of time to think the lights and circuits of lights on the case (recall the BEFORE ANYTHING part of this post), at this point you should have an A circuit and a B circuit. What I've done is give at the A circuit an "always on" state (no matter the switch position, as long as the RGB controller it's ON, the lights will be ON), and give at the B circuit a "conditional state" that depends on the switch (the lights will only turn ON if both the RGB controller and the switch are ON). What this allows me to do, is that if I feel like I don't want too much bright from the lights or just WHATEVER, I can simply switch it off and be happy In order to do this, you'll need a tester to figure out which pins close, which ones open, and where are the common ones. For this model, the pinout for the switch is as follows: The switch allows you to command two states and two circuits. So 2 combinations can be made by the "on/off" capability. In my configuration, I only use one side of the switch (and only the "on" state). So when I turn it ON, all the lights pop up, but OFF will leave the logos and under MOBO circuit. In other words, the "common" pin goes to the +12V on the led strip and the "on" pin goes to the +12V from the PSU. Final lap! You've come a long way down, and now it's time to put all the pieces together. If you done this in a orderly fashion, all the cable management will be neat and tidy, and all the led cables will be concentrated on the "fan hub", leaving the 4th pin (the +12V) all around the hub. The next step will be to "grab" the +12V rail from a molex connector. Remember this pinout to identify it (no worries if you fail and connect it on the +5V like I did... it just won't light up and you then will realize it ). When done, you'll be finally over with all the soldering, zipping, taping and blah and, cable more or less, end up with something like this: Final outcome (opposite to window-side) Nope, nothing to describe here... just showing off (Window-side) Only thing to take note here is the IR receiver from the RGB controller. Since the length of the cable is quite short, you'll need to secure this little box to the bottom panel, and use the hole for the bottom lights to slide in the receiver. Since the receiver it's quite directional, you'll need to slide it out just enough for it to be seen at sight. Chroma, completed! Congratulations! Now you have a custom made RGB controlled case! You can also buy an RGB controlled keyboard and mouse to complete the scheme, and even RGB light bulbs, and since you are onto rainbows, AN UNICORN! But, whatever the choice you made, now you can set your lighting scheme according to your mood! Enjoy, and remember: maybe one day this will be an official product and sold by hundreds of dollars more! Now, some photos of the case! Yeah!!! Purple theme Orange (again: damn cellphone cameras) And even the Razer's Acid Green And full bright power from white combination. 20160212_005256000_iOS.MOV Video Show!

Let's be honest, The Division is one of the best games out right now! With some time to kill and parts that need a home, I decided to give myself a challenge (not to say that Project Ravage wasn't a challenge) and do a case mod. The system will be orientated around the game so i'm going with a black and orange theme build which will also be watercooled to keep things nice and cool. That's really all I have to say, hope you guys enjoy and make sure to click follow next to the title to stay updated Parts are subject to change, just using what ever I have lying around* CPU: Intel Core i5 4690k Graphics Cards: 2x Asus Strix Gaming 970 Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 LGA 1150 Ram: Corsair Dominator 4x 2GB Hard drive: Samsung 840 250GB SSD Power Supply: Zalman ZM650-XG 650W 80+ Gold Case: Silverstone TJ11 Update 1: Case Preparation Update 2: Spray Painting Ram

I finally managed to get my hands on all the components that I needed for the build. So here goes my part list: Case: SilentiumPC Brutus S20 - a small matx case that is small, cheap and got a lot of potential. PSU: Cooler Master G750M - It just was on sell long time ago MOBO: Asrock B85M - I got it from my last build Asus Z97M CPU: i5 4690K : Why K, well it was new and I got it for the same price that I would have to pay for non K. GPU: EVGA GTX980 SC GAMING: Used, but i have 650+ days of warranty on it, and it was really cheap (for a used gtx980 that is) RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 2x8GB DDR3 1600Mhz Drives: Goodram C40 120GB SSD + WD Green 1 TB HDD Cooler: SilentiumPC Fera HE1224 v2 (tallest one that fits in this case) Peripherals: Tracer Sniper mouse and Tracer Mecano keyboard - nothing fancy but works well. The plan: The case: The plan is to get rid of most of the drives bay (as seen on the picture) , and make an opening for a second intake fan at the front. I will also make the cable routing holes a bit wider. For now mATX motherboard is covering them a bit too much. I will also get rid of the SPC logo from the front. As for the side panel I will cut a window (and cover it with plexi of course). P.S. I will not make a hole in the front cover Sleeving: Black/White with a little bit of light grey accents. Painting: Interior of the case will be painted white white, exterior will remain black, but I'm considering some grey/white stripes on the side panel without the window, and maybe something at front. all of the fans and PSU will be painted white (the propellers will remain black) and the GTX980 cover will be painted white with plasti dip. It is likely that I will also make/buy a backplate for 980 and paint it white too. I will have to see if i will have to plasti dip the motherboard too, it may be black but all the circuits on it make it brown. Lighting: RGB LED - thus aurora in the title. Now the hardest thing is to convince my wife that tinkering with PC parts in my garage is something productive

Hey fellas (and ladies), I was thinking about making some pretty sick modifications to a case that I'm getting soon. Most of you probably know about the Corsair Carbide 400C Mid ATX Case. If not, here's the link. Anyways, I'm thinking that I can pull off a slick look if I were to paint the PSU shroud white. To accomplish this, I hope to take out the shroud and spray paint it. (Preferably Plasti Dip) Now, I'm no expert in case modifications, especially in this area, and I need help figuring out what spray paint to buy. This is where you guys come in. What spray paint would you recommend, and could you shoot me a link to the page where I can buy it? (Amazon, in high preference. I have an Amazon Prime account, so I can get free shipping with it rather than paying an arm and a leg for S/H.) I'm thinking of painting the shroud white, along with a couple of other parts. I'm going to attempt to use the same paint and apply it to my GPU heatsink, along with my RAM heatsinks. All of these will be in extremely good care, as I'm not looking to waste any money; I will be extremely delicate and very precise in how I manage this modification. Thanks, in advance, guys! I appreciate you all who take the time and help others when you could be out ignoring everyone's problems and worrying about your own lives.