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Hi, I have problem with my EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Black Edition (With EKWB full block + backplate). Black screen appears when gaming for few minutes. Seems to be related to temperature. Hotspot temp raises to 107 c and memory temp 102 c while overall GPU temp is ~ 85 degree. I have also i5-11600k cpu with EKWB Nickel block. Is 2 * 240mm radiators little too less for this setup? Or is the GPU faulty? I've replaced thermal pads and paste without any luck.

The Cherry MX Black is arguably one of if the best modern Cherry switch to ever be created, the vintage kind of which is one of the most sought-after linear switches ever for its unbeatable smoothness, and ironically is labelled Cherry's best switch despite being made a few decades ago. There is a lot of debate online about what year would qualify a Cherry Black to be vintage, but generally from what I've read online, any Cherry Black switch found inside a board that was manufactured from before 1990 is considered a board with vintage Cherry Blacks inside of it. Today though, I have non-vintage, re-tooled Cherry MX Blacks with me. I have used these Cherry Blacks for around two weeks now and here are my opinions and experiences with my time using the Cherry MX Black. For reference, my daily keyboard uses 67g Tealios V2s lubed with Tribosys 3204 resting on a brass plate. The board I used with the Cherry Blacks in uses the Cherry Blacks lubed with Krytox 205g0 and a carbon fiber plate, so my experiences with the Cherry Black might differ from others due to the plate material, lubing, and even keycaps difference. When I first got my Cherry Blacks, I was curious as to how they would feel, as I've been advised online that re-tooled, modern Cherry Blacks feel vastly scratchier and much more inconsistent than vintage Cherry Blacks due to how much re-molding the Cherry Black has gone through. Unfortunately, this was the case with me, as immediately as a loose switch, when I pressed down on the switch, it was really scratchy. It had about the same scratchiness as YOK Pandas, which are notoriously scratchy switches in my experience. Even stock Gateron Yellows beat these in smoothness. I opened up the switch and the material wasn't actually that bad, but it was clear how rough and unpolished the material was compared to Gateron housings. Prior to purchasing the Cherry MX Black, I knew it was going to be a heavy switch from reading the force curve. At a perceived 60g operating point, and an 80g bottom-out, it was going to be a workout for my fingers which were used to switches that bottom-out in the 60g region. After opening up the switch, I took a look at the stem, as I always do. Its material is fairly decent, with some minor roughness. It's a pretty standard linear stem with defined stem legs, as with all other MX linears on the market which use the same stem design. The material of the stem doesn't compare to the smoothness of other switches such as Gateron Ink Blacks or Zeal's high-end Tealios V2 switches, but it's decently smooth, and I'm sure people would not complain about it if they were obliged to use a Cherry Black. I believe what contributes more to the abundant scratchiness of the Cherry Blacks - even after lubing - is the housing. The housings are definitely rough and course, especially when compared to something like Gateron housings. The bog standard stem combined with the 'eh'-quality housing is in my experience what makes the re-tooled Cherry Black a scratchy switch. Typing on the Cherry Blacks was in all honesty, a pretty shameful experience. I lubed my Cherry Blacks with Krytox 205g0 - with a single Cherry Black lubed with thinner Tribosys 3204 lube to go into the Escape key - and every time I wanted to use them, the prominent scratchiness and sheer resistance of the spring was something I could not bond with. While it was a nice novelty to be able to daily run lubed Cherry Blacks, I did not find the typing experience throughout the two weeks I spent with them fun, and always found myself going back to my main board with Tealios inside them as I found the Tealios better-weighted and tenfold smoother. Do I recommend the re-tooled Cherry Black? No, I don't. It's far too scratchy for what it is, and the weight is a mountain to overcome. I would much rather purchase another alternative linear such as Gateron Yellows or even Gateron Ink Blacks, as those two switches are noticeably smoother than the Cherry Black even as a stock switch, and lubing both of those options will lead to an even greater smoothness that the re-tooled Cherry Black can never achieve. Sorry Cherry, but your gold standard is just a scratchy linear.

The Gateron Ink Black is essentially a Gateron Black with a transparent, smoky housing and a black stem, and is highly regarded as one of, if not the most smooth MX-style switch on the market, rivaling that of Zeal's Tealios V2, and the Vintage Black. The Ink Black is a fairly medium-weighted switch, requiring 60g of force to actuate and 70g of force to completely bottom out. My personal preferred weight for linear switches is anywhere between 62g to 67g so the 60g of actuation force is very welcome. I personally like to use my linear switches lubed, but the Gateron Ink Black is one of those switches that doesn't require that treatment to be a smooth switch. It's a fantastic switch at stock, and is probably one of three switches that I'd consider using stock, next to the Tealios V2 and the NovelKeys Cream. The Gateron Ink Black is super smooth even without lube. With that being said, I still lubed my Gateron Ink Blacks with Tribosys 3204 as I felt that it didn't require thick lube like Krytox 205g0, and it made it even smoother. I did heavily lube my switch, but it did not interfere with the travel, actuation, upstroke, return, or keypress of the switch in any way, and I prefer heavily lubing my linears as it ensures 100% smoothness. Again, not that the Ink Black needed that in the first place, regardless. In my time scouting the switch market, I can find Ink Blacks for around $0.75-$0.80 a switch, which is fairly expensive considering the other offerings on the market, such as regular Gaterons, which can retail for as low as $0.30 a switch. However, I am confident that expending a bit more for the Ink Blacks will work in everybody who is considering a linear switch's favor, as the smoothness - once again, even at stock and unlubed - is rivalled only by the most elite switches such as the Tealios V2 and the Vintage Black - and those go for $1+ per switch each for what I can perceive having using Tealios V2 extensively as minimal improvement. In fact, since using the Ink Blacks, they've become my top 2 linear switch next to the Tealios who edges it out as a close winner. The Ink Black is smooth in every regard and the spring is really high quality. The spring feels robust and full which gives the Ink Black an ultra satisfying keypress travel. The Tealios on the other hand has a fairly hollow spring which is susceptible to pinging. If you're in the market for one of, if not the smoothest, linear, MX-style switch on the market for under $1 per switch, you cannot go wrong with the Ink Black. Ultra smooth stem, silky smooth housing, satisfying spring sturdiness, and excellent lubing capability, making it a solid linear switch.

Hello, In my opinion adding a pitch black dark mode as an option alongside the regular dark mode is a good idea. Pitch black dark mode looks better than the current mode which looks very gray. Thanks

Basically I'm looking for this But with a black (possibly matte black) solder mask I wanted to make a customized pen drive with resin, but I had a specific style in mind and green doesn't really fit. Are you aware of a specific model of pen drive that I can rip the PCB out of or that is directly sold as a PCB with a BLACK solder mask? (Preferably with a decent performance but at this point, I'm accepting anything.)

I have been using my RGB mouse for a couple of months now. In the first few months I noticed, that there's some sort of black residue on my hand. Over the time there was more residue and you could see that the foliage from the mouse was flaking off, exposing the transparent shell underneath it. Then it was clear to me, that in fact, the residue was coming from my mouse. That shouldn't actually happen on a mid-tier mouse (paid about 39€ or 42 USD). It was clear to me that in fact, the residue was coming from my mouse. I thought it might have something to do with my hands itself, since they are often sweaty after being about 3 hours on the PC which then could result into the foliage coming off. But now, let us come to my question. How did that happen in the first place and how do i prevent it from happening in the future?

HI i am a bit stuck between which fan i should get for my case(phanteks p300) the prices are from my region a) ARCTIC P14 PWM 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fan $17.00 b) Rosewill ROCF-11003 - 140mm Computer Case Cooling Fan - Hydro Dynamic Bearing, Silent, 2 Rotation Speeds with PWM Control $23.53

so i cant decide between the phanteks p300 and p300a because the p300 has many good reviews but a restrictive airflow. on the other hand, the p300a has better airflow but not as many reviews this is my pcpp list: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MKSanic/saved/#view=dBf2Vn

Hi all, Long time watcher of LTT here, coming to the forum for some help They say a picture says a thousand words so check the attached picture for what I'm facing. in the blue box I have "contained" the black spot that appeared on my monitor this morning. For reference, it is a Benq EW3270U 4K Monitor If you zoom in and look closely, you'll see it's not dead pixels, since the smudge doesn't seem to adhere to the pixels, it's just a smudge. I've no idea where it came from or what it is; could it be some kind of burn in? There is no direct or reflected sunlight hitting the monitor and it has been here for a long while. (the monitor is close to 2 years old). I've tried tools like UDPixel but it really doesn't seem like it's a dead/stuck pixel at all. There also doesn't appear to be any physical damage to the monitor. Also, if you move your head you can see the smudge appears to be "under" the screen as it changes position relative to what's "on screen" Additionally, I might be going crazy but it I swear I've seen it change shape. Just to confirm, yes I've tried turning it off and on again; unplugged it from power for like 15 mins etc... sadly no go All help is very welcome! Jeno

Hi guys, anyone know any black and white cases? decent-good airflow micro atx under 100 euro's good cablemanagement Thanks in advance!

Acer Nitro 5 Ryzen 5 Quad Core - (8 GB/1 TB HDD/Windows 10 Home/4 GB Graphics/NVIDIA Geforce GTX 1650) AN515-43-R3JU Gaming Laptop (15.6 inch, Obsidian Black, 2.3 kg) I tried recording and it always shows black screen. I have GeForce Experience to Record games impeccable to say the least but when I want to record just the screen it shows black screen and in output too. I tried default setting and also watched a video from Nvidia to set it up. but still no luck.

I live near a river and people here say that copper turns black because of the air. My laptop died recently after 5 years of use and when i opened it, i saw the pipes turned black. Is this bad? Does it effect the cooling power of my laptop? Because i was planning to buy another laptop with 800$. But if this is an serious issue then i would not spend that much money for something that will have broken heat pipes in 2 years. Please help me out. Is this bad for the cooling system? I can't monitor the heat as my laptop is dead. As far as i know it only over heated because of dust. So am I risking my money if i get an expensive (for me at least) laptop? Help please. You can see the photos, almost all of it is black like burnt. Only a little area underneath still has the original color.

Hi, This is my parts list: CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 @3.4GHz Cooler: HYper 212x RAM: 2x 8GB DDR4 @2133 MHz Motherboard: Gigabyte H170 -HD3 GPU: MSi gtx 1070 gaming x PSU: Corsair RMX 750x Case: phanteks ethoo pro m midi tower acrylic window SSD : 120 gb kingston for my os HDD : HDD WESTERN DIGITAL WD20EZRZ 2TB BLUE SATA3 5400 RPM I HAVE ORDERED ALL THE ABOVE PARTS AND PAID FOR THEM . I WILL USE THIS PC MAINLY FOR GAMING . SO HERE IS MY PROBLEM: SHOULD I RETURN THE 2 TB WD BLUE 5400RPM AND GET AN 1TB WD CAVIAR BLACK 1TB 7200RPM( THEY HAVE THE SAME PRICE IN MY COUNTRY) THANK U

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4XKkm8 i was wondering if anyone could help me find or recommend a black mobo with my build, I'm trying to go for a black and blue build. please also check out my build, it's my first gaming pc build and I want it to be very successful

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HydTqk ^^^^ My gaming pc build I am trying to go for a black and blue theme and i am trying to find a black and blue mobo or a full black mobo micro atx.

Hey guys. I'm thinking of getting a black and white laser printer in the near future, as the prices I have to pay for ink for my current printer are outrageous. I've heard that toner is more economical in the long-run, so I'm hoping to save some money. My budget is in the $100-200 range, so I'm not looking for anything fancy. Printing is really the only function I need, but scanning capabilities would be a welcomed addition. I'd also like the printer to have duplex printing capabilities (the thing that automatically prints double-sided). Since I don't spend my free time looking at printers, I don't know which brands are reputable and which ones I should avoid. If someone could inform me about the reputability of printing brands that are out there, I'd appreciate that. Thanks!

Corsair 400c (black) Review Disclosure – This is my first written review of any product, I usually don’t do reviews but I noticed that there aren’t a ton of reviews on this case so that’s why I’m going to do one here, whether any one uses it or not doesn’t matter, I just hope I can answer a few peoples questions. I am going to try to keep this review short though, so enjoy My specs (for comparison) - MSI z170 a – pro - Sapphire 290x tri – x - 16gb of ddr4 patriot 2400mhz - 1tb WD Blue / Sandisk 240gb ssd - Hyper 212 evo - Raidmax Blackstone 700w (I know) Let’s start with a simple pros and cons list PROS – - The aesthetic, though this may be a personal thing I LOVE smaller sized cases, and the fact that this one could easily hold my tri – x 290x was amazing, my buddy even managed to fit 2 390x’s in there. The side panel as well just makes it super slick and nice looking. - Cable management is fantastic I would say there are more pros then cons here but there is one thing that did bug me that I will mention in cons, and this could be a deal breaker for some unless you can get around it. - Price is great, Some might say that 100 bucks for a case isn’t good deal but you are get a whole lotta case in such a small package, I would say its defiantly worth it (especially if you can pick it up for 70 bucks like I did) - The expansion ability in this case is great, It can fit a pretty beefy water cooler in there, and you can actually adjust the placement of the power supply shroud to give you more room for a RAD in the front of the case (or maybe just an extra fan) - The PSU shroud is great, although my PSU is semi mod and that helped a lot in this build, I feel you could do just fine with a non-modular power supply as the hard drive shroud can be adjusted to fit more cabling into the shroud, plus it has a little convenient cutout in the shroud to run some cables through - Overall, a nice case, but it has some quirks that could be easily fixed…. CONS – - The issue I mentioned in the PROs that could be a deal breaker is this, when I was cable managing I realized that I could not zip tie the cables properly to the back without removing the 3 ssd bays on the back, it was super inconvenient but I realized that it wasn’t an issue for me because I just threw the ssd into the hard drive cage, but I could see how this could a pretty big issue for some, if your creative you can probably get around it but its would’ve been a lot easier to move it to the side. - Another small quirk was 50 percent my fault and 50 percent the cases fault, after putting almost the entire computer together it was time to put the front panel connecters on, and there ate 3 little holes under the motherboard that can be used to route cables from the back, but to my amazement none of the cables would fit, if there were even a mm bigger I would have been able to fit the HD audio cable and hid it, but after spending 2 hours building I was not ready to take it all apart just for one cable. So I ended up routing it through the PSU shroud and it doesn’t look all that great, but again half of that was my own fault - Another small con for the case is the fact that it SCREAMS for any type of LED, I didn’t realize that the side panel was a Smokey window not a clear one, but installing an RGB strip fixed all that and I was planning to do that at some point anyway. In-between – There are a couple of things about this case that are neither good nor bad, just some things to note. - One of those things is the fact that the way the airflow is pushed through this case is through the bottom, which can be an issue for people who keep it on their desk, but I had it there for a week and I didn’t run into any issues but I ended up moving it to a separate desk anyway - The USBs are upward facing and there are only 2 of them which is fine for me but can be an issue for some Building tips – - Make sure you plan a little ahead with this case and that everything fits correctly, I didn’t and ran into a few issues - Don’t take off the plastic covering the side panel until you finish, not only is it a nice thing to do once it’s all done but even if you take it off it attracts finger prints pretty easily (like all side panels) - I would recommend a magnetic screwdriver If you have a large CPU cooler, makes life easier (I didn’t use one though) Conclusion – - In conclusion, I thoroughly recommend this case, especially if you prefer a smaller footprint, if you plan ahead you wouldn’t really run into any of the issues I did. I prefer this case over the 400c but the s340 is a strong competitor. If you are a fan of corsair, I definitely recommend this. And if you prefer a larger case there is the 600c for around 150$. I hope that this helped someone out and if you have any questions you can PM me. See ya P.S - a couple pics of my build, excuse the desk cable management, will fix it some day http://imgur.com/a/NPUjr

Going for an RGB themed in either a white or black case, but I don't know what color is better? I'm planning on using the NZXT S340 Elite. The case is made of ABS plastic so i'm worried that over time the white once turning yellow over time. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.39 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler ($158.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX FORMULA ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($376.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($174.99 @ Corsair) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.33 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB STRIX Video Card ($419.89 @ OutletPC) Case: NZXT S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: NZXT Aer RGB140 71.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case Fan: NZXT Aer RGB140 71.6 CFM 140mm Fan ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz) Other: NZXT Hue+ RGB Colour Changing Internal LED Controller ($59.99 @ B&H) Other: CableMod E-Series ModFlex Full Cable Kit for EVGA G2, P2 & T2 - Black / White ($72.00) Other: Dominator® Platinum Light Bar Upgrade Kit x2 ($61.98) Total: $2034.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-08 12:25 EST-0500

Hello everyone, i was curious today and checked some stats of my WD black edition, which since i built this machine in 2012 is my main HD. The numbers seem slow and power on time seems like a lot. Is it dying? I have no backup right now. Budget is tight as f*ck ... Any insight on those numbers would be nice!

So I played the game just two days before for about an hour and a half mostly messing with my characters creation and getting to know the mechanics in Cemetery of Ash. I has no problems whatsoever. Today I wanted to play and move on with the game but it froze. Twice. The screen and sound just froze. I could Ctrl+Alt+Del and click on "Task Manager" but nothing happened. I tried to Alt+Tab to Chrome, or Steam, or the Task Manager but the screen simply was black (first lit black, then pure black as if the monitor turned off). The only screen I could actually see is the blue Ctrl+Alt+Del screen. From there I could restart my computer. I'm starting to lose my patience here because I had a similar problem with GTA V (where if I wanted to Alt+Tab, or exit the game, I would get a black screen and had to turn off the PC manually). I also had a black screen problem with an old GPU of mine some years ago. NONE of my friends have ever experienced something like that, and I have NEVER found a solution for it. Am I THAT F*ING unlucky?:P My Specs: i5 6500 GTX 1070 FTW (card is not overclocked) 16 GB Ram 550W G2 PSU Windows 10 pro 64

Just a quick question about this case, does anyone know if the included front fan is 3/4 pin or a molex connector

Hello, I've been living with an issue (for a long time now) where my screen will at the most random times turn black first, then after about 10 seconds the audio cuts off, ultimately resulting in me having to restart my PC. This happens mostly when watching a video or idling, it's only ever happened once when playing a very light weight game, may just be coincidence but it seems to ONLY happen when it's not doing hard tasks. And it's extremely random when it happens, sometimes it doesn't happen for months, and very rarely it can happen 6 times a day.. sometimes once a week, sometimes 1 a day for a few weeks, absolutely random. I had this issue since BEFORE I've upgraded my PC, I've changed my PSU, changed my mobo, my CPU, and my GPU. I've had 2 GTX 660s, an old AMD GPU (forget the name) and this 290x, persisted from windows 7, going to windows 8, and still here at windows 10. this random black screen has persisted through all of the changes, the only thing never changed is my Harddrive. I've also done a factory restore but the issue has persisted. Could it be my harddrive? Or is there perhaps a commonly ignored software that causes this I might have? Would like to know before I try buying a harddrive and moving everything over.. Specs; Windows 10 R9 290x Sapphire z97 MSI Mobo Intel i7 4470k Dxdiag also included DxDiag.txt

I just finished my i5 6600K build and it so happens to ne in the orange and black ltt colours so here i am sharing a pic. sorry about the poor quality photo. https://nz.pcpartpicker.com/user/itzallama/saved/2gv23C theres a link to all my parts

I'm looking to build a minimalistic white PC with black accents. Any recommendations on the case (with transparent side panel) and mobo? Requests: LGA 1151 socket, at least 1 PCI-E slot, psu shroud, cable management room.