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I tried to install be new be200 for some wifi 7 connectivity on my mother board, but the m.2 pinnouts seem to be different. Am I insane or is something wrong? Do I need to return it and get a different card? Pls help

I just upgraded my CPU to i7 14700k. Everything is set to default in BIOS except that XMP is enabled and EMC is disabled. I know these CPUs are running pretty hot so is there anything else I can set to make it a bit cooler? Mobo: ASUS TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI Cooler: SharkGaming Bloodfreezer 360 Watercooling In C24 it insta thermal throttles around 100c. I dont want to OC it, just make it cooler without loss of performance. I read something about LLC but im not sure how it works or how to set it correct.

specs: Ryzen 5 5600h 16gb RAM for some reason, hovering over the battery icon shows 4hrs of life remaining at 100% ! shouldn't it be higher? about 6hrs+ ? Im only using the browser with a couple tabs and having an office app open. I haven't even begun doing any video editing/ photo editing. Not even played any games on it yet.

I’ve had my ASUS rig strix g16 for under a month and all of a sudden, the next day, the temps increased by 10c or something. Here’s a picture of what the temps were before, and after. The programs I’m running are the exact same and this is like a 1 week difference. The fans are louder and the temps are increased. I opened the laptop and checked the fans, they were clean. The laptop is also lifted using these. This is the second time I’ve purchased this laptop. The first one also overheated a month in. I have the laptop raised using these things and temps decreased by 5c which is good when I first elevated the laptop. I had this problem with my old model a month and a half in. I’m thinking about sending it for a rma for them to repaste the laptop. The laptop is undervolted by -80mv using the bios IMG_0607.heic IMG_0607.heic

Recently my Asus GL503GE started to lag(cannot go above 10-15 fps) in all games(and some normal apps). Here are the specs: CPU: I7-8750H GPU: GTX 1050ti RAM: 16 GB Storage: Windows 10 on a 120GB Adata SSD, and a 1TB HDD. I have tried reinstalling my display drivers, set my games to use the Nvidia GPU in the Nvidia control panel and the Windows Graphics preferences settings, use the 'best performance' power plan, but nothing has worked. I also have the latest BIOS version for my laptop and the latest Windows updates. When I play a game, the Nvidia GPU stays at 0% most of the time, but does random spikes of activity to 100% and the Intel GPU stays between 10% and 50%, with some random spikes to 100% as well. Here is a screenshot just after I shut down Elden Ring: What can I try to fix this?

SECOND AND FINAL UPDATE: After thorough testing I've confirmed that this is a software issue with Nvidia which is unfortunately beyond our control. I've found only one workaround and that is to turn off "Extend these displays" and use "Show only on X" (X being whatever your G-Sync monitor's number is) while you play games with G-Sync enabled. I've confirmed that this has completely resolved all issues and crashes for me. I know this isn't the solution you were expecting, especially if you use your second monitor to do other things (e.g. read chat messages) while gaming on your primary, but it's better than nothing as at least you don't have to completely unplug your secondary monitor(s) and can continue to use it as long as you don't run games. Multi-monitor G-Sync will only crash with games running, so you don't need to constantly turn G-Sync off and on while you're doing anything else (e.g. browsing or working). You'll only need to disable display extension while gaming. This solution is mostly aimed at people who use their G-Sync display as their main monitor and primarily for gaming, and only use their secondary monitor(s) for work (for example: if you are an artist and have a pen display connected). Of course, you can always just disable G-Sync altogether and use all your screens as you like without issues, and if you play competitive games (e.g. Valorant), it's recommended that you do turn it off to reduce latency. I hope this thread has helped some of you. Merry Christmas to all and a happy new year. UPDATE FOR ALL G-SYNC MONITOR OWNERS EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE (READ THE DETAILED LETTER BELOW THE UPDATE): I've made a discovery after many tests. For currently unknown reasons, it was having G-Sync enabled with a second non-G-Sync monitor plugged in at the same time that caused the random Windows 10 crashes/freezes. I am still running further tests to figure out why G-Sync was exclusively causing this with a second monitor plugged in, but if you are having the same issue make sure you have ONLY the G-Sync display plugged in and no other monitor. This should solve any crashing/freezing issues (no guarantees of course, issues vary). It seems this is not a new issue with Nvidia, as I found similar threads for other monitors and PC specs from a few years ago, but they were using G-Sync compatible monitors. Well, seems this issue can apparently appear in native G-Sync as well. I will update this thread again when/if I have further news and/or a solution (so other monitors can be plugged in at the same time too). ----------- Hello, I recently purchased a new monitor, the ASUS ROG Swift PG279QM. It's running at 1440p 240Hz and has a native Nvidia G-Sync module. My GPU is ASUS' GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC. Nothing is overclocked. When G-Sync is on, the PC will randomly freeze forever during games until I hard-restart it via the reset button on the case. Here is how the crash proceeds: Game image will freeze entirely and permanently. Keyboard and mouse will lose signal and no longer function at all (keyboard caps lock etc. will not register either, so no LEDs). These two will maintain their electricity but if the keyboard is unplugged and replugged during the freeze, it will not get its power back. The mouse will. Though still nothing functions. Sound will keep playing in the background for about one minute but will gradually lose volume until it finally gets distorted and also gets cut off completely. At this point everything is nonoperational. Important notes: The PC does not, ever, restart on its own, regardless of how long I wait. If I don't use the reset button to restart the system, it will stay frozen like that forever. In this frozen state, the PC's hardware continues to work normally. There is no throttling or fans stopping or speeding up, everything carries on as usual. Since this is not registered as a crash/bluescreen by Windows, but just an unexpected manual restart, there is zero info on what failed prior to the freeze. If during the freeze the PG279QM is turned off and back on, it will turn on with extremely low brightness and no image (the previous game image that froze will be gone). I will still be able to open the OSD but see it just barely due to the low brightness. However, it will retain all of its settings, as the OSD will still show 1440p 240Hz and G-Sync (the LED on the monitor will also remain red indicating G-Sync is on). Note that the settings include the brightness. The monitor does not drop its setting to low brightness, it becomes dark with the normal brightness setting still there. However, if the PG279QM is unplugged from the GPU and then replugged, just like the keyboard, it will no longer receive signal at all, stating that no input was detected, at which point the brightness of the monitor returns to normal. So whatever causes the darkening specifically at least must come from a massive GPU driver crash. I also have a second monitor connected which is a 1440p 60Hz non-G-Sync one. Unlike the PG279QM, during the freeze, this monitor will retain its brightness even if it's turned off/on and/or replugged, as well as whatever image it was displaying before the freeze. This monitor will not lose signal no matter what. Nevertheless, it also stays frozen. I've used various Nvidia drivers, currently using the latest ones along with Windows 10 64-bit fully updated. If this is somehow a driver issue, it has not been looked into by Nvidia in the past 5 GPU drivers now. This bizarre freeze happens exclusively with G-Sync on and always with a game running. Especially if the game dips to 30 FPS (e.g. cutscenes, pause menus capped by the developers etc.). There has never been a crash with G-Sync off. The G-Sync freeze has almost always happened when a game was either paused or going through a loading screen at a capped 30 FPS. I've run many troubleshooting tests. The PC always runs cool even under 100% load for extended periods of time and passes all tests without errors. Unfortunately, this phenomenon is completely random and therefore impossible to recreate and troubleshoot. It could crash within an hour or go without a crash for days. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening? The monitor is brand new and appears to be working flawlessly. I also ran extensive stress tests on my PC to ensure the GPU isn't failing and got no issues. Is this perhaps a problem with Windows 10? I have not tried Windows 11 with G-Sync in games yet. After looking around online I also found the possibility that perhaps my PSU is failing. I had a 1080p 60Hz monitor before the PG279QM so it's possible that my PSU can't keep up with the massive specs upgrade. Any insight is welcome. Thank you for your time.

Hey, My mother has been having issues with her Asus Vivobook (Asus Vivobook 15 F512JA-AS34). The laptop works as expected while on battery, but the moment you plug in the charger (while in Windows) the laptop freezes. It is the same charger that came in the box, and it does charge the laptop's battery. I expected an issue with Windows, but for some reason, I was unable to get into the Windows installation environment (Created an installation disk with the Windows Media Creation Tool). BIOS works normally, with or without a charger and I do not suspect thermals to be the issue. It gets slightly more weird after this. I used the Ventoy software to make a bootable USB and put on Linux Mint on it to test if I could replicate the Windows issues on Linux. I was unable to get into the Linux environment (tried both Cinnamon and Mate versions) and get the following error screen (same for both versions) The Linux ISO's and windows install were working (tested on a secondary laptop) After a few more attempts I tried running Hiren's Boot PE, but could not get it to launch. The Linux built-in Memtest stopped at around 25%. Are the problems described here fixable or do you believe it is a hardware problem and we need to get a new laptop?

Hi, I'm planning to buy a new monitor this summer Budget: 25 000CZK / 1080USD GPU: 7900 XT Requirements: -OLED display What I've been looking at reviews etc., I like the two monitors ASUS PG27AQDM and ASUS PG32UCDM I'm more interested in the PG32UCDM (Czech price 1 800 USD) but for that one I doubt it will drop 853 USD in price in 3/4 months so that one is out. And the other one I also found good and I'll probably choose it but before that I'd rather come here to ask if there are any better alternatives etc.

Hi! I have an old 20" Asus monitor, a friend of mine give it to me saying that He never used it a lot. As you can see in the attached video, when I plug it in a socket the only thing that happens is a short blue LED and then nothing else. What can it be? Some component need to be change? Thanks to everyone who will answer. 20240408_152857_1.mp4

Hello, I'm looking to buy a 4070S but I'm not sure which brand to go for, currently in my place the Asus GeForce RTX 4070 Super 12GB GDDR6X OC Edition is at 665€ and the Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4070 Super 12GB GDDR6X Gaming OC is at 688€. Is there any major difference in quality that I should choose one over the other?

So I just built my PC and tried to start it up. No display to my monitor. Noticed that there was a green LED next to Boot, thought that meant it had booted. Turns out I was wrong and this greeny yellowy light means that the motherboard has failed to boot. I have been searching all over for a possible solution but almost all failed POST's are to do with RAM and not boot. If anyone can give some information on how I can fix this, that would be great. I 'tried' the CMOS thing where you power down and touch metal on both the little pins but this didn't work, maybe I did it wrong?

Hello everyone! I'm having this issue for the past two days and I just can't figure it out. When I turn the PSU off and then on the green LED is on and it directs me to the boot menu. From the BIOS when I press the Windows Boot Manager it boots normally. So here's where the problem starts. When I restart the PC the white LED starts to glow (after DRAM and CPU) permanently: and there isn't anything on the monitor as well and the Display Port is greyed out as if it isn't connected at all. Recently I've done two things in the past month: 1. Eleven days ago I updated the BIOS because I wanted to add two more sticks of RAM(2x8GB) and hoped the update would make it stable on 3200 MHZ(D.O.C.P). 2. Added the two sticks of RAM into the system. I tired pretty much everything I could from README: How to respond to a no POST or no power up situation and it still doesn't boot when I restart my PC. I have no idea why the monitor doesn't turn on and why the DisplayPort is greyed out when the white LED is on, as if the monitor is not feeling it these past few days.. Here's the system as well: Every answer will be much appreciated!!!

My computer is ASUS Tuf F15 (i7 3070). I used the command "reg add HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power /v PlatformAoAcOverride /t REG_DWORD /d 0" in PowerShell to disable S0 standby and enable S3 standby. However, when the computer wakes up from standby, it automatically restarts after about 30 seconds.

any of y'all running into issues with ASUS's WRX90E-SAGE SE mobo? i just built a new pc, and i've had nothing but problems, slow-downs, and extremely low (0.5GHz) clockspeeds with my wrx90e. windows 11 amd threadripper pro 7965wx kingston fury ram (256gb) asus rog thor platinum 1200w psu i do a lot of CAD/CFD sim work, and every couple of hours, all my cores go from 4.2 GHz to 0.5 GHz and stay there. task manager, my desktop, everything... it all turns into a 1 fps slideshow or takes forever to open/load. a job that was supposed to take ~80sec yesterday took over an hour! when i checked, all cores were stuck at 545MHz again. thermal throttling doesn't seem to be a problem either: the CPU never gets higher than 82-88*C under max load at 4.2GHz, but yet i've seen my CPU drop all cores down to 545 MHz even when i'm just browsing the web and core temps are 37-40*C. i've spent all week troubleshooting and a friend recommended posting here for help. i'm starting to regret buying this thing. feels like ASUS made a crappy motherboard.

Hello! So first I want to mention that I am new here and also in the PC stuff but I am learning fast. So with that out of the way,I want a opinion on what RTX 407P SUPER to get,like from what brand? I came down to these options since they are in my budget so: 1.Gainward GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER Ghost OC 2.MSI GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12G VENTUS 2X OC 3.ASUS GeForce RTX 4070 Super Dual OC 4.GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER WINDFORCE OC So I wanna know which of these is the best in all aspects,but mostly performance,but by that I actually mean best overclockability cuz yea,they all got the same nvidia chip inside =). I am also open to other variant as long as they dont go with like 40 dollars over the most expensive one which in this list is the Gigabyte. I also need to mention that I am in Europe so prices may differ a bit but yeah. Thank you in advance!

Hello basically I lost all of my laptop back cover screw and need a quick replacement. I've tried searching online about the exact screw size but the closest thing I have to an answer is a picture of the back cover from the manual i found online. If I remember correctly there's two different sizes of the screw on the back. However, I don't remember the exact size or type of the screw, some user on the Asus forum suggested M.3 while the other said M.2 Any help appreciated, Thanks...

I'm looking to upgrade my 10 years old headset. Looking at the ROG Fusion II 500, it states this: "ESS 9280 High Resolution Quad-DAC" The headset has 3.5mm jack, USB-C and USB 2.0. Does the built-in Quad-DAC only matter when using USB?

Recently (within a week) my primary monitor (asus VG34VQL1B) Its connected via displayport to my rtx 3060 ti. It only happens on the primary monitor, and not the second. I have chnaged cpu, mbo, and ram. It did not change it.

Hi, I am building my first PC. I can start it with my CPU-graphics and installed windows 10 Pro. Everything works except that my GPU isn't detected in the device-manager and I can't get an image with the output of the GPU. I don't know, what I can do at this point, so I ask here (first time I ask for help in an online-forum). A lot of the things are bought used, but I don't think, that is the problem (the MoBo detects something in the PCIe slot). As I said, I can run windows with the monitor connected to the CPU-graphics. FYI I have internet and can install things (not a Nvidia driver, because no Nvidia GPU is detected), in case I need Apps, drivers, etc to fix the problem. The Fans of the GPU are spinning (different to other posts) and the lights are on. I am using a displayport-cable. I don't have another GPU to test it or another PC to test the GPU. Also no other monitor at the time (I am moving soon and I have my monitor there, not here). I don't even get a signal (not even for BIOS) when I plug the monitor into the GPU. In the BIOS (under Advanced - System Agent - PCI Express Configuration) I see x16 detected in the first slot, but that is about it. My build: (OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit) Motherboard: Asus Z490-e CPU: Intel i9-11900K GPU: Nvidia RTX 4070 12GB RAM: 2x16 32GB 3200 MHz kit (Corsair Vengeance Pro) PSU: be quiet! 12m 850W CPU-cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Elite Storage: Fikwot FN955 4TB M.2 PCIe Gen4 Monitor is old, but works after I put the new NVMe into my laptop and installed the basic display-drivers (it is worse than full hd so windows had a problem with it). What I've tried already: I installed a BIOS-update (newest one, 2801 x64) with EZ-Flash and a USB stick. In the BIOS I tried: I checked all the cables, turned it off and back on (while I tried my luck in the BIOS I had to reset it and update it again a few times). enabling iGPU Multi-Monitor setting the primary display to auto or the GPU a different Power cable for the GPU (PCIe 5.0 (both sides) as well as a 2x8 to 5.0 splitter, and I made sure, they were correctly installed at the GPU and the PSU) putting the GPU into a different slot connecting the M.2 to the second slot (is still there) Did all windows updates, etc. uninstalled graphics-drivers reset BIOS I really appreciate any help. If you need more info or pictures, please say so and I will get them. Thank you!

Hello, I am planning on buying a laptop for myself for regular day-to-day office work and some/ rare gaming. I have been looking at Lenovo and Asus and I am confused between 2 specifications. A-> Company- ASUS- TUF A15 CPU- AMD Ryzen 9 5900HX GPU- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Laptop RAM- 8GB DDR4-3200 SO-DIMM *2 Storage- 512GB PCIe 3.0 NVMe M.2 SSD B-> Company- Lenovo LOQ CPU- Intel i5-12450H GPU- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Laptop RAM- 8GB DDR5-4800MHz (SODIMM) *2 Storage- 512 GB SSD M.2 2242 PCIe Gen4 TLC Both systems have 8GBx2 = 16GB of ram. but A has DDR4 ran whereas B has DDR5 ram. Both are at an approximate same price point but the ASUS laptop is refurbished. My approximate budget is 70,000 INR +/- 5,000 INR. I am unsure as to which laptop to select. Please feel free to ask any questions/ clarifications/ details required from my side. Kindly help.

Hi everyone, I was playing F1 23 HDR for 1-2 Hours, shut down my PC and got some Food. After turning my PC back on, I noticed a vertical while Line of Pixels across the Screen. It is even streaking beyond the normal Display-Output of my PC, probably for Pixel-Shift Im guessing? I thought this was an issue with my GPU/Cable at first, but when I replaced the Cable and tried a different Output-Device it was still present, so I looked in the Monitor-Menu without anything being connected. - It was still there... Then I reran Pixel-Cleaning a couple of times and even reflashed the Firmware, all to no avail sadly, so I started an RMA with the Shop where I bought it. I also wondered if it was damaged somehow, but I did not see any Marks indicating Damage from the Outside on the Monitor. Has anyone experienced a similair Issue? Some Pictures of the Issue attached!

I have Asus TUF B450m Pro Gaming and I'm just looking at the bios then I saw this one. It has two modes. Normal mode and the Asus Optimal. Is it fine if I tune in the Asus Optimal? Is it like, overclocking? It also indicates it'll boost perfomance so I'd like to try it. But I'm not sure if it's safe.

I have an ASUS Zen WiFi Mini AX mesh system that is configured in Access Point mode, so it is not acting as a router, as I have that wired to an Edgerouter-X for QoS and ISP failover. This mesh system consists of one device (model SD4R) that has two ethernet ports (WAN/LAN and LAN), and two other devices (model SD4N) that has a single LAN ethernet port. If I need to make a config change, it is done by connecting to the SD4R, which here I will call the the "main AP". Currently, my networking flow is (see full explanation here) Two ISP modems > Edgerouter-X -> Main AP (SD4R) -> MoCA Adapter -> 1:4 coax splitter (one with a terminator cap, one goes to MoCA for ethernet switch, two goes to MoCA for other APs) -> One SD4N AP for each room. I will be evaluating whether there really needs to be the main AP (SD4R) in the same room as the router because the next closest AP is just one room away. So the room with the router may already have solid 5 GHz reception without its own AP. So, I was wondering: Would things operate normally to move the main AP to a different room on the same Coax splitter as the other APs, such that the APs would no longer be downstream from the main AP? That would result in the following updated networking flow: Two ISP modems > Edgerouter-X -> MoCA Adapter -> 1:4 coax splitter (one goes to main AP, one goes to MoCA for ethernet switch, two goes to MoCA for other APs) -> One SD4R/SD4N AP for each room. What have I checked and why am I posting this? I read the ASUS manual, and its "wired connection" diagram shows putting the other APs downstream from the main one. However, it does not say whether this is required for certain or all configurations (such as Access Point) I searched for other posts on these forums, and there was one regarding a similar question about having some APs on MoCA and some not, but that was a different layout - So I'm not entirely confident that the same thing applies to my situation or even my manufacturer. Why don't I just try it on my own? Well that would take a considerable amount of time to get the main AP in another room, and I think it would be helpful to have an up front answer for the community or even the internet's sake since... ASUS doesn't have a community/forum that fits this wifi product or all their products. They have specific forums for ROG and even ZenPhone, but not ASUS products in general. Also, bonus points to anyone that can tell me how I can connect reliably connect to my ScreenBeam MoCA adapters directly so that I can see signal related stats. I've tried connecting the device directly to the ethernet port of my PC and using whatever IP the directions told me to connect to, but a page for the device doesn't load at all.

I have a old Asus X99-Pro board that has worked great for years. On the morning of Jun 23rd I discovered the machine restarted overnight and was stuck with post code 00. I tried restarting the machine multiple times and still had post code 00. None of the fans were spinning. I had a i7-5820K installed in the board when this happened. I updated my BIOS from 0401 to 3801 on June 16th to do a RAM upgrade. The machine had no issues after the update until Jun 23rd when this incident happened. Asus support said I had a dead CPU but I am not very confident in ASUS support due to my experience with a issue with a different board on my newer machine. I just installed a used Xeon E5-2683 v4 into the board that I got from a surplus seller on eBay. The new CPU is on the QVL list for my board. My board still has post code 00. I have tested this board with nothing installed in it and got post code 00. I also tried with only each CPU installed and still got post code 00. I also tried with a CPU and a single stick of RAM and still post code 00. In all of my testing I was not able to get the fans to spin. I do have the power and reset LEDs on my motherboard when my PSU is on. I have tried using USB Bios Flashback to install BIOS 0401 and 3801 on my board with no improvement. The bios flashback function appears to work but I still get post code 00. I am wondering if there are any other tests I can try? I do not want to spend $200 on a new X99 board but I am willing to spend money on tools (Like a PSU tester). My PSU is a Corsair RM750 so the PSU fans do not spin when I use a jumper on the PSU. I was able to power a CD drive with my jumped PSU. Any advise is appreciated.

I’ve been dealing with this ASUS motherboard for 2 weeks now trying to troubleshoot reason to why the XMP profile crashes Fortnite on DIMM slots 2 and 4. When I switch the DIMM to slots 1 and 3, XMP takes quite a while to Boot and post. I’ve tried contacting ASUS themselves I haven’t heard anything back yet. I bought the recommended RAM and all the parts are compatible. Please help you’re my only hope. specs~ i9-13900k Asus motherboard z790 A Wifi G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB series (Intel XMP 3.0) DDR5 RAM RTX 4070ti 1TB