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When someone wants to buy a UPS there are a lot of question to be answered: - How many VA ? - Is modified sinewave ok or pure sinewave is essential? - high priced APC & Eaton or more reasonably priced powerwalker and cyberpower - There are no reviews online which show oscilloscope outputs so the buyer can decide which ups should buy. Linus, there is an opportunity for a review here, I think.... Please like this post, so mods forward it to Linus Media Group reviewers.

Dear techtippers, Recently (well, about 6 months ago) I bought an APC UPS for my home server. I've bought it to grow so it runs my server for about 1.5 hours I think so I haven't gotten around to setting up graceful shutdowns of my VM's. Now I'd like to do this but it seems there is not clear cut solution for this. I have an APS SMT1500 and I'm running an Esxi host on my server to host all of my VMs. The VMs are windows, linux, Freenas, a bit of everything. I'd like to give the command when my UPS is at #% battery it start gracefully shutting down Esxi VMs. Do any of you have experience with this?

Hello All, So here is my setup: - A Netgear R8000 router flashed with the current version of AdvancedTomato - I just purchased an APC Back-UPS 1080 VA (Model: BN1080G) - a Windows 10 computer - a Linux computer running Kubuntu 17.10 - I am going to be adding an UnRAID server in about a week What I am wanting to do is have my UPS connected to my router usb port so Tomato can monitor the UPS. Then have the systems that are plugged into the UPS (Windows 10 computer, Linux, UnRAID Server) monitor the UPS status via Tomato and complete a graceful shut down if the ups loses power after X amount of time or if the battery is critical. I have been able to get the UPS connected to my router via USB, and AdvancedTomato recognizes the UPS and displays the full status with all the data. But I have no clue where to go from here. I have done a lot of Googleing and I came across NUT (Network UPS Tools) but I have no clue how to use it. Where do I go from here? I assume UnRAID has a built in feature or a Docker to monitor a network UPS. So that will probably be easy to figure out. But what about the Windows system and the Linux system? Thank you in advanced for your help.

WhatsApp Video 2019-12-03 at 18.38.48.mp4 I've attached a video so you guys know exactly whats going on. Its just been constantly clicking but everything is displaying fine. After googling, people say its because there is electrical disturbance and I have to reduce the sensitivity. But I have done that and it is at an absolute minimum sensitivity, but its still doing the same thing! Need help!

To start things off I did some research around the forums and there are people asking for help in these area but not so much of information being given. I would really like a breakdown since 3 days ago a video was posted on the YouTube channel about high wattage power supplies. First is my issues and where I went wrong; recently in Western North Carolina we have been getting some storms in the afternoon for the past two weeks. On Thursday we had some power outages that where about 5 minutes apart for the total of 4 times. I didn't think much of it since I was already in bed, if you can guess where this is going I lost two machines to this. First was my machine, I logged into a game I frequent to notice that my frame rates where dropping low... like 20s low. My machine is a i5-4430 with 16gb Corsair Ram with a Evga 970 SC and Corsair CX750M power supply. I also started to notice that my video card drivers would crash and recover, after some research I narrowed it down to my power supply not putting out enough juice. THIS IS WHERE I MESSED UP. I built a machine for my wife which is a i5-3350p 8bg Gskill ram with a Thermaltake SMART SP750M power supply. Since I have my wife's machine turn it self off I unplugged everything pulled the power supply out and notice it was a little dusty nothing crazy since i blow my cases out once a month. I took the Thermaltake out and place it into my machine and powered it on to test if this is why my frame where low. Everything booted but i started to notice the smell of burning electronics so i powered off. I thought... It was just dust falling into the power supply so I crabbed a BestBuy house brand 500w power supply from my 3D printer and plugged it in since it was pretty clean and practically new. This time one of my hard drives a WD 1T Blue CAUGHT FIRE! I instantly yanked the power out and waited for the smoke to clear. I thought to myself that this was odd so did a power test on the 500w PS and plugged it into my wifes machine and tried to get her system back up. Here is where stuff got weird and where I suspect the issue started, her Seagate 1tb HD was not being read.The comp would just go straight to the bios so I tried an SSD that was in my machine it also did not pick up. As a last resort i had an old laptop hard-drive that was a slow rpm that i swapped out for a SSD in my laptop and BAM it recognized it. I decided to BestBuy the next day and pick a new power supply for my machine, a hard drive and a ssd. I pulled a SSD that I was trying out in my ThinkServer for my wife's machine and by 1 pm on Saturday and I had both machines back up and running. Note i also grabbed a new surge protector for our machines and this is where my question starts. Are power supplies this sensitive to power outages? If I get a APC backup one for each machine and it powers down my machines is this really making a difference since the computer are still connect to the power grid? My wife doesnt use her machine much and it was already off during the power outages. It seems her power supply took the brunt of the damage. My power supply the Corsair seems to have taken some damage but my machine was running until i swapped them. Since my power supply never went into her machine and her hard drive was dead I can only guess that this is what killed my hard drive. Now that both machines are back running well... Everything SEEMS back to the normal, my fps is normal though I lost data. I understand what a surge protector does but does a battery back up really save your computer or just ensures a safe shut down and a possibility of saving data? Since computers are taking less power now is there a dang good way to fight back against power outages the last thing I want is to loose my 970 or my processor. Im not looking for a go google your question here (else i would of went to reddit), im trying to get some good feedback and maybe the team can do up a good video explain battery backup and surge protection. -Steve

Uninterruptible Power Supplies have long lived within data centers around the globe, providing protection against power surges, sags, and outages. But recently, companies like APC and CyberPower have worked to bring these simple yet useful devices into the household of the average consumer. With the BR1000G coming in at just over $120, is it something that you should pick up? Lets start with an overview, some basic pros and cons, and then move on to more detailed thoughts. OVERVIEW: Taking a look at the aesthetics, things are actually pretty respectable. The unit is hefty, and feels like it is very high quality. When you first unbox it, you do have to remove the bottom cover to install the battery, which is incredibly easy and shows APC's effort in making this device consumer friendly. The majority of the unit is a dark grey/black textured plastic, with glossy plastic accents on the side logo and the front bezel. there are also vents along the top and side of the unit. overall, the device has a very clean look, one that can be displayed next to a media center without drawing too much attention. On the back side, we have 8 outlets. 4 are surge only, and the other 4 are surge and battery protected. We also see a pair of RG-6 and RJ-11 connectors for surge suppression, and an RJ-45 for data connection to your PC. The circuit breaker is also located on the rear of the unit. PROS: 1,000 VA/600W capacity means you will be able to protect relatively power-hungry equipment and maintain a respectable battery run time. I usually pull about half of it's total capacity, and it gives me an estimated run time of around 15 minutes. LCD screen is super useful, shows all info you'll want to know, including graphics for load and battery charge, along with specifics on voltage in and out, load in watts, event counter, and estimated battery run time. alarm is easily silenced, with a push of the left button. You can also set it to never sound the alarm, and to keep the display on constantly. 6 foot cable. Might be long for some applications, but easier to manage extra than try and extend it. APFC compatibility, so devices that constantly need active power power factor connection won't shut down when switching over to battery power. PowerChute management software. Pretty cool that you can monitor it from your PC, and after setting the UPS up with the software it will retain those settings, even without a PC connection. Sweet! AVR - Automatic Voltage Regulation, ensures that it outputs smooth voltage to all devices connected, and stabilizes voltage when there is a sudden change of load. 3 year manufacturer warranty and a lifetime $150,000 equipment protection policy. Nice touch, APC! Battery is easily replaceable. They are readily available on Amazon (LINK) with Prime shipping for less than $40, and installation will take 5 minutes to install at the longest. Energy Star certified for efficient operation. Can be programmed to self-check battery on a schedule, whether you want it to check weekly or monthly. This even works if not connected to a PC! Awesome! CONS: 8 total outlets, with only 4 of them being battery protected. (the other 4 are surge ONLY!) bit disappointing to have so few outlets on battery protection. Can be worked around though, just use some power strips HEAVY! this thing weighs over 23 pounds! Glossy plastic. looks good, for 5 minutes. The 3 buttons on the top of the unit are always on if the unit is outputting power. Kinda annoying. Gets warm if the battery is charging. PowerChute software is OLD, and can only be installed via a DVD? Really? it's 2016! THOUGHTS: This thing is awesome. Just, really, really sturdy and reliable. I have it covering my entire desk setup (two monitors, one gaming PC, and some speakers) PLUS my server rack and networking equipment (two Dell PowerEdge R210's, a router, two switches, Samsung SmartThings hub) and have yet to have an issue. My system does have a 1000 watt PSU, so i would definitely not be able to fully utilize that power if connected to the UPS, but don't see that being a problem in the near future. Having the ability to program the device and have it save the settings onboard so that they stick even when not connected to a PC is incredible, and expands potential use scenarios. I'm also a big fan of the in-depth LCD screen and the scheduled self-test. (please ignore the cable clutter, just moved into a new house and I'm working on dealing with it all!) WHY APC? APC is a subsidiary of Schneider Electric, who specialize in industrial grade circuit breakers, switch gear, and transformers. They have a pretty extensive history in power management, delivery and protection, so I'd imagine this is child's play to them. (I've also heard rumors of CyberPower UPS systems killing themselves, but can't personally back these rumors up. Worth mentioning though.) NOTES: Just because the UPS is operating under battery power does NOT mean it is safe to unplug it from the wall! It will still use the ground prong under battery load, and you could have some serious issues if you leave your expensive devices un-grounded! CONCLUSION: The APC BR1000G is an affordable UPS system for your desk,TV, or anything else in the house you don't want to be affected by power outages, surges or sags. It is well built, with a good warranty, and will blend in pretty well even in plain sight. Not having to worry about power flashes (especially in Florida!) is awesome, and being able to keep my servers online reliably at a respectable price is awesome. This thing does everything you expect it to do and more, it has a sweet set of features and isn't too hard to look at for what is essentially a contained battery system designed to handle quite a bit of voltage. It really has brought the UPS to average households, and I've got to give APC some serious credit for that. Well done guys! Build Quality: 9/10 Software: 6/10 Feature Set: 10/10 OVERALL: 9/10

I found this UPS for 4 bucks at a Habitat for Humanity restore, and I figured "what the hey, why not try it out." I assume its very old because it has the gross matte whiteish color that you see on electronics from the 90s and early 2000s (If this works than I am gonna get handy with the spray paints). The test beeper still works, but it is giving me an error code. I found out its just for a dead battery, so I bought one for this model off ye' old amazon. Also on this model it has one of those RS-232 data connectors (It looks like a VGA/ D-SUB port with one less row of pins and is an old semi-equivalent for USB, but kinda not) I have a RS-232 to USB adapter and tried using it. My computer sees the device but can't communicate with it. I am wondering if I need to go driver hunting, or I need to count my loss of 4 dollars and take a trip to my recycling center. Is RS-232 supposed to be PnP. I have no idea because of the age of this form of communication. Also just any other general info you have about this UPS would be awesome. Thanks for your help.

Hi guys! So I'm thinking about buying UPS, the power doesn't go out very often, I'd say maybe a 1-2 times in spring and autumn, but I'm thinking about buying it just to have peace of mind. There are two computers that I want to protect: 1. Workstation with i7-4770k, GTX780 (750W PSU on it) loads of drives and two 27 inch monitors. 2. iMac 21" (two years old) I bought a meter and run GPU and CPU benchmarks on both computers. The meter showed 529.2 W Max To have some overhead I was thinking about buying APC BX1400U-FR (http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/AHUG-9G9DDV/AHUG-9G9DDV_R0_EN.pdf?sdirect=true). Would you say it's a good idea, would you recommend something else? Thank you in advance!

I was recently looking at getting a UPS for my computer (We had a power outage yesterday, that was annoying) I noticed UPS don't typically come with alot of surge protection. I had been looking at a 1500VA UPS with 865 Watts and I read that it only had a little more than 350 Joules of surge protection. My current Surge Protector has 3020 Joules of protection. What am I missing LTT? Why is there such a low amount of protection on a UPS like that? HALP! (Yes, there is an a, not an e)

Suggest me APC online UPS available in India. I live in India. I need an online UPS of 1000VA, at minimum price. Suggest me from amazon.in or flipkart.com.

This is a pvlog of me attempting to fix my APC Smart UPS 3000 So i have a APC Smart UPS 3000 that has been sitting in my Server Rack doing nothing.So i thought i would try to get it up and running. But first let me explain why i haven’t even plugged it in before. the reason is This: That is a L5-30R Or 30 amp 125V twist lock L5-30R. so im sure you get it i don’t have one of these plugs and i cant have one installed because i rent (im also moving soon so there would be no point) so i started looking to see if thet have converters form this plug to a reguler 15 amp 120v 5-15p Plug. AND THEY DO:http://www.ebay.com/itm/370925254588?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 but its 25$ which is a fair price but i don’t even know if the ups works. which brings us to batteries.The main reason its not working. my batteries are in really bad condition they have been completely flat for months (there probably done for) Its a 120$ to replace all 8 batteries so i thought it would be worth trying to save the batteries with something called equalization. equalization is when you overcharge the batteries and then add distilled water. it only works for flood asid batteries. and that’s what the ups has. Here are some videos on equalization and what is is: How to do it:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMM8nkznXgU What is it for:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrUal2YW1vk So now i know the first thing i need to do Fix the batteries. So i took the 200(or at least what it feels like) lb ups out of there server rack and down stairs (almost fell going down)and into the garage. Now i need to get the batteries out normally you open the front to take the batteries out. but im also going to open the top (which is not suppose to be open by end user you know no user servisebe parts kind of thing it dosent apply to me.) Ive already taken out one of the batteries to see how to open them. and all the whirring is just hanging in the front (just in case you thought that’s how it goes) So now to open all the batteries As you can see im wedging and cutting into the small gap that goes around the cover.after i got a gap i stook a slat head screw driver and slowly posed it off (note when tou pop it off you break the tabs that hold it down the only way to keep the cover on is to tape it down) Once you get it open yull see 6 rubber capes the are for each cell of the battery. we need to take them off to access the vent ports. To take them off just put a flat head at the bottom of the cap. and pull it up. yull hear air come out (some times) when you pop them off Make shur you put the caps somewhere safe you will need them when you put it back together Some of the caps will have asid residue on them (or maybe its electro lite?) what ever it is i cleaned it out of all my caps with a coffee filter. I also cleaned around the vent ports with a coffee filter. Now that you have all the tops off and caps and everything is cleaned. line up the batteries (if you want to be neet ) as you can see i put my caps on the tops (neet freak maby?) Now its time to put in distilled water. some people say to fill it to the top other say 7/10ml but apparently the battery manufacturer has it it in the docs. (im to lazy to go find that so ill just put 10ml per cell) I used a Graduated Cylinder to measurer how much i put in and to pour it in to the small holes (that what she said) Ok it took me a long time to fill all 8 batteries 48 ports/cells but now im done Now its time to whir them up. there whirred up in series.( i just used the photo on the door to figure out how to whir them up) Now this part gets a little weird i don’t have a battery charger (or over charger) so i used the one i made for my bike.You can check that project out here:http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/146794-custom-bike-with-motor/ so now i have it all wird up to the bike charger a side problem is that the charger is only 10.2v 900ma so in other words its more of a float charger then a actual charger and i need to be over charging them at 15/20v but it fully charges the bike battery so i thought is i could get the ups batteries to show that they can hold a voltage that one i get the ups up it can charge them or i could buy a 12v charger with a equalization setting. but for now ill try this one 4 hours later the batteries show no sigh of life (i should probably let you guys know im using a 6v moter to test it i don’t have a volt meter my old broke i might but a new one for this) i gave it another 5 hours and still nothing (im probably not punting enough voltage in to beat the resistance.) but just to be sure i didn’t mess up the charger whirring i hooked up the bike battery with the others and charged for 3 hours. (the bike battery was also flat couldn’t start the 6v moter but after the short charge it could) so its not the charger its ether that the charger is to weak to charge them or that the batters are dead (possibly both) so now i need to get a battery charger and a volt meter really find out what’s going on. if you have any suggestions let me know. also if you know of a cheap 12v battery charger let me know if it has a equalization setting that would be a bug plus. this is the volt meter im getting: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EK3NRS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005EK3NRS&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=OKZZ2WKO4IA5P6UX this is the 12v charger im looking at:http: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051D3MP6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0051D3MP6&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=5KQRPQLEMAMHEIBN">Black & Decker BM3B 6V and 12V Battery Charger / Maintainer</a><img src=" or http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G8AIMU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001G8AIMU&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=W22ILDL6KH3FQQUK

Ok, so I just picked up a UPS for $5 at a garage sale in my area. The thing looks in good condition and what not, all that it needs is a replacement battery. So the replacement battery for this is lead acid, and my question is, can the current charging circuit handle it if I get a lithium ion battery? Please move this thread if it isn't in the correct sub forum, I wasn't sure where to post it.