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  • The ULTIMATE Watch_Dogs Optimisation
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  • Its not a blog just dont know how to post
  • I need Evolve Key please message me if you have one
  • tacodemauro's Blog
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  • i need help with steam
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  • R_Kaplan23's Blog
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  • •[]•-PCMC ℂaℒℒ-ℊIrℒs Ѻ7Ѻ578IѺIѺ4 _=_ Ѻ976775824Ѻ Baner-PiMpri EscOrts Service-Hinjewadi, Dehu rOad Call Girls
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  • Anthony's Apartment
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  • eestimees50000's Blog
  • Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition w/ 300 W power supply?
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  • shadakak's Blog
  • SSD and hard drive config?
  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
  • My PC Upgrade Blog
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  • qwertywarrior's Blogimm not allowed on offtopic so im gonna post here
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  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
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  • help me remember
  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
  • murz's blog
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  • Sarbartha's Blog
  • The Mechanical Experience
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  • my mice issues
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  • Ctrl's Blog
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  • David Jones
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  • Fx 6300 With gtx 960 or r9 280x is best
  • ThatGuyWhoTwirlsHisPen's Blog
  • Moving to the PC Master Race
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  • Need Help With GPU Choice
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  • please help me
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  • First Water Cooling Build
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  • realtek decide to block 7.1 software playback
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  • Used GTX 970 vs GTX 980, Which should I get?
  • Suemael's Blog
  • My first gaming PC
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  • Falx II: The AMD rig that could.
  • Falx IV: The Next Generation.
  • Phoenix: The bundle of suprises.
  • Dis is confusing
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  • Pc Blog
  • Raid Zero Danger?
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  • A wee bit if help needed
  • Can hear but when I talk into mic my friends can hear me with the SS 9h
  • Jlryan's Blog
  • +Core ? vs Faster Core ?
  • Harryoclegg484's Blog
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  • Tommy-b-10's Server Build
  • Lowering the voltage
  • Cockpit Creation
  • Needing a good laptop for school under about 1000 euros or under
  • Taylor borie's Blog
  • is this pc good
  • Harry Sidhu's Blog
  • Brakes on Driverless Cars
  • Rohanm's Blog
  • Recommendations for water cooling
  • Herping And Derping With Zexen
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  • Elllie's Pooter blog with some sparkles and custard
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  • Alex's Tech Life
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  • Are these parts decent with each other?
  • killerson69's Blog
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
  • What is the differance between a 128 bit and a 256 bit graphics card?
  • *NEED HELP* NEW GAMING RIG 2015
  • Calvin10112's Blog
  • Fx 9590 Cooling
  • budget 3D modeling advise
  • Frosteler's Blog
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  • Help with parts and bottlenecking
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  • HELP ME PLEASE!!!!
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  • SoloGamingG1's Blog
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  • HELP!
  • JBPblogging
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
  • ShayanLP's Blog
  • R4 Build #2
  • RAVE
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  • PC Spec help
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  • ZonkyHD
  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
  • URGENT
  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
  • SirMonti's Blog
  • PC Issues
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  • Which headphones
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  • Should i buy this prebuild pc?
  • tleejr5349's Blog
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  • Voltage computer systems
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
  • James's Blog
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
  • My Gaming Rig Review
  • Drummaboy57's Blog
  • A techy blog
  • WIDE SCREENS UHH :3
  • Nettot's Blog
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  • Jake's Tech Selects
  • TheSkylord2104's Blog
  • PSU Upgrade?
  • Thoughts from Sunshine1868
  • handymanshandle's Blog of Blogginess
  • one fault about amd GPUs
  • For the Noobs
  • SmittyWerbenJagerManJensen's Blog
  • Shyamrao's Blog
  • Dell Inspiron 15r (5520)
  • Raman_Kumar_Kharche's Blog
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  • BlueMagma1's Blog
  • THE BEAST
  • Open looped water cooling
  • BigKahuna's Blog
  • pcman365's Blog
  • LoafMan's Blog
  • WanderingX7's Blog
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  • GeorgeJacobIsANerd's Blog
  • GeorgeJacobIsANerd's Blog
  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
  • PatonFTW's Blog
  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
  • JonnySel007's Blog
  • Noob looking to upgrade
  • Scrapyard Wars Ideas
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  • New pc for under 750$
  • Hackintosh Under 5000 USD
  • Sekhon's Blog
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
  • Please Help
  • Harry__Bird's Blog
  • Noob Builder
  • Love Minecraft Blog
  • AC Router Help
  • kiwicasper's Blog
  • Sound Card suggestions?
  • New Cars Review Blog
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  • Honda dream of life
  • Gaming Monitor
  • Using Microsoft Edge
  • AurorasDestiny's Blog
  • AIO to Dsktop plan
  • Xboxfreak's Blog
  • redlimerock's Blog
  • Choosing a UPS battery backup
  • tibosuys_'s Blog
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Found 29 results

  1. Well, i'm kind of bored at work so i did this: Pi4 with docker (influxdb + grafana) with exposed ports for both. Pi Zero W connected to an UPS (APC CS 650) 400W (you need the USB -> RJ45 that came with the UPS or you can buy one online, they're pretty cheap). My set up: Pi Zero W collecting the metrics with telegraf and posting them to my influxdb on pi 4 and showing them in grafana, also on pi 4. This could be done just by using a single pi 4. But by the sake of madness, a zero w was also installed. Now, on the pi connected to the ups: sude apt-get update sudo apt-get install apcupsd Change the apcupsd config file to adjust to this properties: sudo nano /etc/apcupsd/apcupsd.conf # #UPSCABLE smart UPSCABLE usb #UPSTYPE apcsmart #DEVICE /dev/ttyS0 UPSTYPE usb Start apcupsd: sudo service apcupsd start Test the setup with the command: apcaccess (ups stats should be displayed) Now install telegraf (influxdb repo needs to be added in order to install it like this) sudo apt-get install telegraf Edit telegraf file: sudo nano /etc/telegraf/telegraf.conf And add this to the bottom: [[inputs.apcupsd]] # # A list of running apcupsd server to connect to. # # If not provided will default to tcp://127.0.0.1:3551 # servers = ["tcp://127.0.0.1:3551"] # # ## Timeout for dialing server. # timeout = "5s" Search for this line: [[outputs.influxdb]] and uncomment / edit in accordance urls = ["http://192.168.1.118:8086"] --> this is is my docker IP for the influx DB. you can point it to localhost:8086 if you have influx on the same machine without docker. Check the status: sudo systemctl status telegraf (use start instead of status in order to start it) Now, grafana side. I won't get into the details of installing grafana, but feel free to ask for help if you need. Create the data source. For minimal config just set the data source name and HTTP URL. So, cool side, click on the PLUS ( + ) sign of grafana and select "Import" Add the ID 10835 (https://grafana.com/grafana/dashboards/10835) and name it accordingly, setting the newly created upsdb data source. And you're pretty much done. Go check your new dashboard, you little rascal!! I've made a few changes to mine, so it has the 400W value, the price per kWh, set the graphs to euros and a couple more things i cannot recall but will gladly post my JSON file. This is the final look: And the end part: Truth be told, my pi zero w only increased the load value by 3W so it's pretty neat! This dash was not originally created by me, i just added / altered some of the graphs and Grafana Variables so it would suit my needs. I already had a TIG stack running on pi 4 (Telegraf + InfluxDB + Grafana) for monitoring purposes, i just added another dash to my grafana so i can monitor my UPS stuff on the other room. Pretty cheat, pretty cool, pretty easy! Feel free to ask any questions! Sharing the good vibes around!
  2. I've attached a video so you guys know exactly whats going on. Its just been constantly clicking but everything is displaying fine. After googling, people say its because there is electrical disturbance and I have to reduce the sensitivity on Power Chute. But I have done that and it is at an absolute minimum sensitivity, but its still doing the same thing! Need help! 1923467295_WhatsAppVideo2019-12-03at18_38_48.mp4.e47871568cce23ba092fbecf8a6855fe.mp4
  3. WhatsApp Video 2019-12-03 at 18.38.48.mp4 I've attached a video so you guys know exactly whats going on. Its just been constantly clicking but everything is displaying fine. After googling, people say its because there is electrical disturbance and I have to reduce the sensitivity. But I have done that and it is at an absolute minimum sensitivity, but its still doing the same thing! Need help!
  4. I decided that with my new build I wanted to purchase a UPS to plug it into. I admit I didn't do my homework thoroughly enough and purchased an APC BACK-UPS 1100VA/600W model# BN1100M2. After getting the unit home I did some more research and found that most modern PSU's (including the Corsair RM650 I purchased for my new build) have a feature called 'active PFC' which means they need power delivered in true sine wave form. The BN1100M2 does not do this, it delivers power in a 'stepped approximation to a sine-wave,' which could cause the computer to shut down unexpectedly in the event of a power outage and switching over to battery power. However, on the APC product page for the BN1100M2, if you click the button next to "Want additional product information?" it mentions the product is "active PFC compatible." Further down the page it says this, "APFC Compatibility: Ensures electronics that have active PFC power requirements will not unexpectedly shut down when switching from utility power to battery power during an outage." This is literally all they say about this feature. Link to APC Product Page, click the blue button that says "Show Product Overview" to see the listed feature in the "Overview" section. One more weird thing is that the model number match between the website and the actual box the UPS came in, but the website calls it the Back UPS PRO, whereas PRO is not mentioned anywhere on the box I have. Does anyone know if I can use this UPS fine with my current PSU thanks to the "active PFC compatibility" feature, or should I return the model I have and switch to one that outputs in true sine wave form?
  5. So i have only two plugs for 1 wall outlet, so want to increase the plug-able plug so I can plug the monitor and the pc and other stuff. Does having a power strip ok ?? or is there any other options?
  6. I've got an APC Back UPS ES 650 that I bought new about...maybe close to a decade ago? Anyway, it hasn't experienced any significant protection events save basic power loss and power quality events during its early life and has been sitting to the side doing nothing for the past four years after the last time I recycled the battery. My question is if it would be fine to run it with my TV and game consoles (newer consoles, ex. PS4, LCD TV). I'd put a replacement battery in it first, of course. Think it'd be good enough or should I shell out for a new basic UPS for the purpose? I doubt pure-sine wave vs. adaptive matters terribly much with this application. Feel free to correct my ignorance as necessary...constructively please.
  7. I need more Power! So plugging my desktop into the wall is not enough when i'm gaming with my overclocked pc. Power keeps shutting of at random becuase my dad has wiring that will make you cringe... so....i need an APC power backup that will sustain my 750 watt when the power shuts off. Alot of people who have power backups say their pc shuts down immediately. I need an APC that will give me power even when their is no power in my house. No delay but a constant "i got you continue gaming" power backup supply for a expensive OC Desktop is needed. Should i Make my own using a power inverter a battery and a battery charger? Input anyone? Regards, :)
  8. My build as follows MSI Z370A Pro Mobo Intel i7 8700K Corsair H45 Corsair 8GB Ram Corsair TX750M Seagate 1TB GTX 1070Ti Case - NZXT Phantom 530 I have this gaming rig built and I have a lot of fluctuations and power cuts in my area. I have a low end numeric ups which is good in case of light load like browsing/watching movie etc. But when it comes to gaming, the UPS fails to kick on the battery power and just totally shuts down my PC with no power. I am looking for a budget gaming UPS in India and I found APC ups but I don't know anything about it. I read the reviews but if anybody is using a better UPS for gaming please mention here. Besides also tell me about the APC 600W UPS wheather it could back up my PC while I am gaming when there is a power outage
  9. I know there is a lot of options to choose a nice low output wattage ups for a normal pc usage, but what if i want an UPS for a gaming pc that could deliver me an output as more than 600W. Please suggest me a better UPS for a gaming PC. I live in India so please suggest a budget ups that can withstand fluctuations while gaming with my 1070Ti and i7 8700K with 8 GB RAM
  10. hello good day so this is my issue i have a APC pro 1300 UPS... and most times when electricity goes it cuts off and then go the battery power, making it pointless as a UPS... like there is a 1 second delay from when electricity goes b4 it decides to kick into battery mode shutting down my PC...the battery is fully charge and can last a long time..voltage in and out is great what could be the problem?
  11. To start things off I did some research around the forums and there are people asking for help in these area but not so much of information being given. I would really like a breakdown since 3 days ago a video was posted on the YouTube channel about high wattage power supplies. First is my issues and where I went wrong; recently in Western North Carolina we have been getting some storms in the afternoon for the past two weeks. On Thursday we had some power outages that where about 5 minutes apart for the total of 4 times. I didn't think much of it since I was already in bed, if you can guess where this is going I lost two machines to this. First was my machine, I logged into a game I frequent to notice that my frame rates where dropping low... like 20s low. My machine is a i5-4430 with 16gb Corsair Ram with a Evga 970 SC and Corsair CX750M power supply. I also started to notice that my video card drivers would crash and recover, after some research I narrowed it down to my power supply not putting out enough juice. THIS IS WHERE I MESSED UP. I built a machine for my wife which is a i5-3350p 8bg Gskill ram with a Thermaltake SMART SP750M power supply. Since I have my wife's machine turn it self off I unplugged everything pulled the power supply out and notice it was a little dusty nothing crazy since i blow my cases out once a month. I took the Thermaltake out and place it into my machine and powered it on to test if this is why my frame where low. Everything booted but i started to notice the smell of burning electronics so i powered off. I thought... It was just dust falling into the power supply so I crabbed a BestBuy house brand 500w power supply from my 3D printer and plugged it in since it was pretty clean and practically new. This time one of my hard drives a WD 1T Blue CAUGHT FIRE! I instantly yanked the power out and waited for the smoke to clear. I thought to myself that this was odd so did a power test on the 500w PS and plugged it into my wifes machine and tried to get her system back up. Here is where stuff got weird and where I suspect the issue started, her Seagate 1tb HD was not being read.The comp would just go straight to the bios so I tried an SSD that was in my machine it also did not pick up. As a last resort i had an old laptop hard-drive that was a slow rpm that i swapped out for a SSD in my laptop and BAM it recognized it. I decided to BestBuy the next day and pick a new power supply for my machine, a hard drive and a ssd. I pulled a SSD that I was trying out in my ThinkServer for my wife's machine and by 1 pm on Saturday and I had both machines back up and running. Note i also grabbed a new surge protector for our machines and this is where my question starts. Are power supplies this sensitive to power outages? If I get a APC backup one for each machine and it powers down my machines is this really making a difference since the computer are still connect to the power grid? My wife doesnt use her machine much and it was already off during the power outages. It seems her power supply took the brunt of the damage. My power supply the Corsair seems to have taken some damage but my machine was running until i swapped them. Since my power supply never went into her machine and her hard drive was dead I can only guess that this is what killed my hard drive. Now that both machines are back running well... Everything SEEMS back to the normal, my fps is normal though I lost data. I understand what a surge protector does but does a battery back up really save your computer or just ensures a safe shut down and a possibility of saving data? Since computers are taking less power now is there a dang good way to fight back against power outages the last thing I want is to loose my 970 or my processor. Im not looking for a go google your question here (else i would of went to reddit), im trying to get some good feedback and maybe the team can do up a good video explain battery backup and surge protection. -Steve
  12. Hi guys! So I'm thinking about buying UPS, the power doesn't go out very often, I'd say maybe a 1-2 times in spring and autumn, but I'm thinking about buying it just to have peace of mind. There are two computers that I want to protect: 1. Workstation with i7-4770k, GTX780 (750W PSU on it) loads of drives and two 27 inch monitors. 2. iMac 21" (two years old) I bought a meter and run GPU and CPU benchmarks on both computers. The meter showed 529.2 W Max To have some overhead I was thinking about buying APC BX1400U-FR (http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/AHUG-9G9DDV/AHUG-9G9DDV_R0_EN.pdf?sdirect=true). Would you say it's a good idea, would you recommend something else? Thank you in advance!
  13. According to Outervision website, my system requirement is somewhere like 330-340 watt. I want to buy the APC 600VA ups which is like 360watt, I did a lot of research and I know this is just making it there, I should get the 1100VA model. But I am not bothered about the backup it can provide, there is barely a power cut where I live, but some voltage fluctuation is seen often. So my aim is to have a stable power source for my PC. How is the AVR function in the APC 600VA back-UPS (BX600C-IN) for my purpose? Shall I buy it or get the 1100VA model (it is actually more than double the price of the 600VA)
  14. When someone wants to buy a UPS there are a lot of question to be answered: - How many VA ? - Is modified sinewave ok or pure sinewave is essential? - high priced APC & Eaton or more reasonably priced powerwalker and cyberpower - There are no reviews online which show oscilloscope outputs so the buyer can decide which ups should buy. Linus, there is an opportunity for a review here, I think.... Please like this post, so mods forward it to Linus Media Group reviewers.
  15. So I'm planning on buying a UPS and through the limited research that I've done, essentially it is recommended that I get a UPS that supports both the wattage for my monitor and PC. Assuming I added correctly, both monitor and PC requires 820W (PSU is 750W while monitor's max draw is 70W) Now, to match 820W i would need to pay an absurd amount of money. So i was thinking; I'm only getting the UPS to give me the chance to shut down safely in case of a power outage (unstable electricity), meaning I only need probably 2-3 minutes of extra electricity. Can i get away with a UPS which outputs only 415 Watts/800VA? Specifically this model: http://www.apc.com/shop/my/en/products/APC-Back-UPS-800VA-230V-AVR-Universal-and-IEC-Sockets/P-BX800LI-MS
  16. Dear techtippers, Recently (well, about 6 months ago) I bought an APC UPS for my home server. I've bought it to grow so it runs my server for about 1.5 hours I think so I haven't gotten around to setting up graceful shutdowns of my VM's. Now I'd like to do this but it seems there is not clear cut solution for this. I have an APS SMT1500 and I'm running an Esxi host on my server to host all of my VMs. The VMs are windows, linux, Freenas, a bit of everything. I'd like to give the command when my UPS is at #% battery it start gracefully shutting down Esxi VMs. Do any of you have experience with this?
  17. I recently purchased a SMC1000C by APC & discovered a "green mode" that's supposed to save me ~$25.00 a year. Although like other efficiency modes I've heard of with other things, I'm concerned this might effect my PC negatively since it's Ryzen 5 1500X & 3GBG GTX 1060 are overclocked. I would've of asked on APC's forums but figured I'd get a more biased opinion there, so should I disable it or reap the savings?
  18. I was recently looking at getting a UPS for my computer (We had a power outage yesterday, that was annoying) I noticed UPS don't typically come with alot of surge protection. I had been looking at a 1500VA UPS with 865 Watts and I read that it only had a little more than 350 Joules of surge protection. My current Surge Protector has 3020 Joules of protection. What am I missing LTT? Why is there such a low amount of protection on a UPS like that? HALP! (Yes, there is an a, not an e)
  19. Ok, so I just picked up a UPS for $5 at a garage sale in my area. The thing looks in good condition and what not, all that it needs is a replacement battery. So the replacement battery for this is lead acid, and my question is, can the current charging circuit handle it if I get a lithium ion battery? Please move this thread if it isn't in the correct sub forum, I wasn't sure where to post it.
  20. I recently moved in to my house, new to me but build over 20 years ago. This is my first winter in it, and I notice that every time the heater turns on the screen goes blank for a second. This only happens on my computer, I'm using a tv for a monitor. The tv is also used with an xbox and i never had this issue with either one of them only my computer. I think what is happening is that the heater for fraction of a second" to start up" pulls to much electricity and for that second the computer lags a bit. Idk I'm not Tesla, but with that logic would a back up power supply, like a battery back up supply fix this issue. one that charged a batter an only went to aux power"battery pack" when the power lvls dropped. I believe they use these in server rooms and the brand I'm most familiar with is APC. I wouldn't need an industrial back up power supply only one that would keep a constant flow of electricity to my computer. Any thoughts or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
  21. Hello All, So here is my setup: - A Netgear R8000 router flashed with the current version of AdvancedTomato - I just purchased an APC Back-UPS 1080 VA (Model: BN1080G) - a Windows 10 computer - a Linux computer running Kubuntu 17.10 - I am going to be adding an UnRAID server in about a week What I am wanting to do is have my UPS connected to my router usb port so Tomato can monitor the UPS. Then have the systems that are plugged into the UPS (Windows 10 computer, Linux, UnRAID Server) monitor the UPS status via Tomato and complete a graceful shut down if the ups loses power after X amount of time or if the battery is critical. I have been able to get the UPS connected to my router via USB, and AdvancedTomato recognizes the UPS and displays the full status with all the data. But I have no clue where to go from here. I have done a lot of Googleing and I came across NUT (Network UPS Tools) but I have no clue how to use it. Where do I go from here? I assume UnRAID has a built in feature or a Docker to monitor a network UPS. So that will probably be easy to figure out. But what about the Windows system and the Linux system? Thank you in advanced for your help.
  22. Uninterruptible Power Supplies have long lived within data centers around the globe, providing protection against power surges, sags, and outages. But recently, companies like APC and CyberPower have worked to bring these simple yet useful devices into the household of the average consumer. With the BR1000G coming in at just over $120, is it something that you should pick up? Lets start with an overview, some basic pros and cons, and then move on to more detailed thoughts. OVERVIEW: Taking a look at the aesthetics, things are actually pretty respectable. The unit is hefty, and feels like it is very high quality. When you first unbox it, you do have to remove the bottom cover to install the battery, which is incredibly easy and shows APC's effort in making this device consumer friendly. The majority of the unit is a dark grey/black textured plastic, with glossy plastic accents on the side logo and the front bezel. there are also vents along the top and side of the unit. overall, the device has a very clean look, one that can be displayed next to a media center without drawing too much attention. On the back side, we have 8 outlets. 4 are surge only, and the other 4 are surge and battery protected. We also see a pair of RG-6 and RJ-11 connectors for surge suppression, and an RJ-45 for data connection to your PC. The circuit breaker is also located on the rear of the unit. PROS: 1,000 VA/600W capacity means you will be able to protect relatively power-hungry equipment and maintain a respectable battery run time. I usually pull about half of it's total capacity, and it gives me an estimated run time of around 15 minutes. LCD screen is super useful, shows all info you'll want to know, including graphics for load and battery charge, along with specifics on voltage in and out, load in watts, event counter, and estimated battery run time. alarm is easily silenced, with a push of the left button. You can also set it to never sound the alarm, and to keep the display on constantly. 6 foot cable. Might be long for some applications, but easier to manage extra than try and extend it. APFC compatibility, so devices that constantly need active power power factor connection won't shut down when switching over to battery power. PowerChute management software. Pretty cool that you can monitor it from your PC, and after setting the UPS up with the software it will retain those settings, even without a PC connection. Sweet! AVR - Automatic Voltage Regulation, ensures that it outputs smooth voltage to all devices connected, and stabilizes voltage when there is a sudden change of load. 3 year manufacturer warranty and a lifetime $150,000 equipment protection policy. Nice touch, APC! Battery is easily replaceable. They are readily available on Amazon (LINK) with Prime shipping for less than $40, and installation will take 5 minutes to install at the longest. Energy Star certified for efficient operation. Can be programmed to self-check battery on a schedule, whether you want it to check weekly or monthly. This even works if not connected to a PC! Awesome! CONS: 8 total outlets, with only 4 of them being battery protected. (the other 4 are surge ONLY!) bit disappointing to have so few outlets on battery protection. Can be worked around though, just use some power strips HEAVY! this thing weighs over 23 pounds! Glossy plastic. looks good, for 5 minutes. The 3 buttons on the top of the unit are always on if the unit is outputting power. Kinda annoying. Gets warm if the battery is charging. PowerChute software is OLD, and can only be installed via a DVD? Really? it's 2016! THOUGHTS: This thing is awesome. Just, really, really sturdy and reliable. I have it covering my entire desk setup (two monitors, one gaming PC, and some speakers) PLUS my server rack and networking equipment (two Dell PowerEdge R210's, a router, two switches, Samsung SmartThings hub) and have yet to have an issue. My system does have a 1000 watt PSU, so i would definitely not be able to fully utilize that power if connected to the UPS, but don't see that being a problem in the near future. Having the ability to program the device and have it save the settings onboard so that they stick even when not connected to a PC is incredible, and expands potential use scenarios. I'm also a big fan of the in-depth LCD screen and the scheduled self-test. (please ignore the cable clutter, just moved into a new house and I'm working on dealing with it all!) WHY APC? APC is a subsidiary of Schneider Electric, who specialize in industrial grade circuit breakers, switch gear, and transformers. They have a pretty extensive history in power management, delivery and protection, so I'd imagine this is child's play to them. (I've also heard rumors of CyberPower UPS systems killing themselves, but can't personally back these rumors up. Worth mentioning though.) NOTES: Just because the UPS is operating under battery power does NOT mean it is safe to unplug it from the wall! It will still use the ground prong under battery load, and you could have some serious issues if you leave your expensive devices un-grounded! CONCLUSION: The APC BR1000G is an affordable UPS system for your desk,TV, or anything else in the house you don't want to be affected by power outages, surges or sags. It is well built, with a good warranty, and will blend in pretty well even in plain sight. Not having to worry about power flashes (especially in Florida!) is awesome, and being able to keep my servers online reliably at a respectable price is awesome. This thing does everything you expect it to do and more, it has a sweet set of features and isn't too hard to look at for what is essentially a contained battery system designed to handle quite a bit of voltage. It really has brought the UPS to average households, and I've got to give APC some serious credit for that. Well done guys! Build Quality: 9/10 Software: 6/10 Feature Set: 10/10 OVERALL: 9/10
  23. Suggest me APC online UPS available in India. I live in India. I need an online UPS of 1000VA, at minimum price. Suggest me from amazon.in or flipkart.com.
  24. This is a pvlog of me attempting to fix my APC Smart UPS 3000 So i have a APC Smart UPS 3000 that has been sitting in my Server Rack doing nothing.So i thought i would try to get it up and running. But first let me explain why i haven’t even plugged it in before. the reason is This: That is a L5-30R Or 30 amp 125V twist lock L5-30R. so im sure you get it i don’t have one of these plugs and i cant have one installed because i rent (im also moving soon so there would be no point) so i started looking to see if thet have converters form this plug to a reguler 15 amp 120v 5-15p Plug. AND THEY DO:http://www.ebay.com/itm/370925254588?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 but its 25$ which is a fair price but i don’t even know if the ups works. which brings us to batteries.The main reason its not working. my batteries are in really bad condition they have been completely flat for months (there probably done for) Its a 120$ to replace all 8 batteries so i thought it would be worth trying to save the batteries with something called equalization. equalization is when you overcharge the batteries and then add distilled water. it only works for flood asid batteries. and that’s what the ups has. Here are some videos on equalization and what is is: How to do it:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMM8nkznXgU What is it for:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrUal2YW1vk So now i know the first thing i need to do Fix the batteries. So i took the 200(or at least what it feels like) lb ups out of there server rack and down stairs (almost fell going down)and into the garage. Now i need to get the batteries out normally you open the front to take the batteries out. but im also going to open the top (which is not suppose to be open by end user you know no user servisebe parts kind of thing it dosent apply to me.) Ive already taken out one of the batteries to see how to open them. and all the whirring is just hanging in the front (just in case you thought that’s how it goes) So now to open all the batteries As you can see im wedging and cutting into the small gap that goes around the cover.after i got a gap i stook a slat head screw driver and slowly posed it off (note when tou pop it off you break the tabs that hold it down the only way to keep the cover on is to tape it down) Once you get it open yull see 6 rubber capes the are for each cell of the battery. we need to take them off to access the vent ports. To take them off just put a flat head at the bottom of the cap. and pull it up. yull hear air come out (some times) when you pop them off Make shur you put the caps somewhere safe you will need them when you put it back together Some of the caps will have asid residue on them (or maybe its electro lite?) what ever it is i cleaned it out of all my caps with a coffee filter. I also cleaned around the vent ports with a coffee filter. Now that you have all the tops off and caps and everything is cleaned. line up the batteries (if you want to be neet ) as you can see i put my caps on the tops (neet freak maby?) Now its time to put in distilled water. some people say to fill it to the top other say 7/10ml but apparently the battery manufacturer has it it in the docs. (im to lazy to go find that so ill just put 10ml per cell) I used a Graduated Cylinder to measurer how much i put in and to pour it in to the small holes (that what she said) Ok it took me a long time to fill all 8 batteries 48 ports/cells but now im done Now its time to whir them up. there whirred up in series.( i just used the photo on the door to figure out how to whir them up) Now this part gets a little weird i don’t have a battery charger (or over charger) so i used the one i made for my bike.You can check that project out here:http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/146794-custom-bike-with-motor/ so now i have it all wird up to the bike charger a side problem is that the charger is only 10.2v 900ma so in other words its more of a float charger then a actual charger and i need to be over charging them at 15/20v but it fully charges the bike battery so i thought is i could get the ups batteries to show that they can hold a voltage that one i get the ups up it can charge them or i could buy a 12v charger with a equalization setting. but for now ill try this one 4 hours later the batteries show no sigh of life (i should probably let you guys know im using a 6v moter to test it i don’t have a volt meter my old broke i might but a new one for this) i gave it another 5 hours and still nothing (im probably not punting enough voltage in to beat the resistance.) but just to be sure i didn’t mess up the charger whirring i hooked up the bike battery with the others and charged for 3 hours. (the bike battery was also flat couldn’t start the 6v moter but after the short charge it could) so its not the charger its ether that the charger is to weak to charge them or that the batters are dead (possibly both) so now i need to get a battery charger and a volt meter really find out what’s going on. if you have any suggestions let me know. also if you know of a cheap 12v battery charger let me know if it has a equalization setting that would be a bug plus. this is the volt meter im getting: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EK3NRS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005EK3NRS&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=OKZZ2WKO4IA5P6UX this is the 12v charger im looking at:http: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051D3MP6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0051D3MP6&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=5KQRPQLEMAMHEIBN">Black & Decker BM3B 6V and 12V Battery Charger / Maintainer</a><img src=" or http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G8AIMU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001G8AIMU&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=W22ILDL6KH3FQQUK
  25. Hello! I have a Gaming System with APC UPS (Back UPS 1100, 4 Years Old). I'm facing some issues with it now. It was working fine for last 4 years, but starting facing the issue from last 1 week. Sometimes Monitor looses the Display Signal (Monitor doesn't turn-off but looses the display signal which causes the screen go black for a second and then comes back). Mostly, My System gets off (without proper shut-down) or re-starts. Both issues happens whenever there is a Power flowing rightly (not Electricity Cut). I have removed the UPS and my system is working fine and monitor also. Could you please help me with this in finding, What's the issue? Thanks! System Details: CPU: Intel i7-4790K Motherboard: ASUS Maximus Hero VII RAM: Corsair 16GB PSU: RM650i GPU: Asus Strix OC Edition GTX 970 System Life: 4 Years Old UPS Life: 4 Years Old.
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