Search the Community

My budget is 5.000.000 IDR (308,58 USD) Country: Indonesia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Web Browsing, Watching Movies, School Stuff, Maybe Minecraft the specs i chose is Amd ryzen 3 3200g Msi b450m-a pro max Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2x8) 3200mhz Acer k243y e monitor Cube gaming blig case i already have ssd, keyboard, and mouse

Hey there everyone! Thanks to some folks here in the forum (huge thanks to @YoungBlade) I've been guided in my upgrade to AMD (first time ever touching an AMD PC). Even if I already have 2x16GB 2666MHz RAM in my current PC and could very well transfer it to the new platform, I wanna see what upgrade I can make which would be cheap and far better than what I have. Maybe 3600MHz? I don't know anything about timing or anything so all help is welcome. Would prefer keeping the same amount of memory, and the cooler I'm getting allows up to 62mm memory modules. I'm welcome for new and used options, either Amazon or eBay, or just basic recommendations based on your local used market, might have similar deals. If there isn't something I can score for less than $45, then I'll just wait for that specific upgrade since I'm already doing a ~$300 upgrade and my wallet hurts. Any comments welcome!

I bought this CPU about 2 years ago, and bought a cheap LGA2011 motherboard. The CPU did not fit so it has just been on a shelf for 2 years. CPU is a 12 core 2.60GHz Xeon E7-4860V2

I'm planning to buy GPU for my first PC and currently only RX7600 from AsRock is available, are GPU from AsRock reliable for long term use?

Hi Folks. I bought a used XFX Radeon RX 5700 because the my old 1060 died. The seller was runnign firestrike and timespy benchmarks and the tomb raider (ingame) benchmark while. I could see it running for myself. There was no problem. After i installed it into my system (at the time: r5 2600, 16gb ram 2400mhz, 530 watts PSU, asus prime x370 pro) i played more pixel indie games at the time and not any demanding games. Later i played Diablo 2 Resurrected, Palworld, Witcher 3 and the game crashed only after a few minutes in game. First i got flickering in and out of the game and than a crash to desktop with a massage for driver timeout. Again and again and again and again.... I tried to solve the problem by reinstall windows and clear install the amd software. After that i tried to use the enterprise software, also not working. Then i tried drivers only, same s**t. After looking for help on YT and Goolge i thought i found the problem: the PSU. changed it to a corsair cx750m (750 watts) and did not used the daisy chained 8-pin cables for the card but give it 2 individual cables. It looked like it was working for a bit but.... nope. after a reboot i got the same problems again. I also tried to reduce the speed of the card over MSI afterburner but it did not work at all. If i use benchmarks (no ingame benchmarks) its running alright. I was so fed up i installed an old 1060 from a friend. My old mainboard died on me last month and i could do nothing untill now i got a replacement (have not much money because of continuing my education). The "new" system is a R5 5500, gigabyte a520m s2h, 16gb ram with 3200mhz and the same 750 watts PSU. So i gave the RX5700 another try.... As you can think... it did not work at all and i got the same s**t like befor. The LTT Forum is my last try to get that beast to work. If not... save up some money and change to team green. Im at the end of my wits here. Thanks in advance.

PC specs: CPU: Intel I5-10400 GPU: GTX 1660 Super PSU: Corsair CV750 (750w) RAM: 16GB Motherboard: Asrock B460M I'm looking to upgrade to a better GPU as my current GPU is deteriorating (Game stutters and such). I play on 1440p (3440x1440 monitor resolution). Could anyone recommend some bang-for-buck GPUs to buy?

Hello,as the title suggests i have a build with a FX8370, it started having issues with overheating and shutting down, after installing AMD Overdrive and doing some testing it looks like it always runs at full speed (Turbo: 4320MHz @1,425 V and turbo off:4019MHz @1,35V) at idle the temps are around 40 degrees from the thermal margin, but they go to -20 degrees before shutting down (since the margin is @60 degrees, it means it goes to 80 degrees Celsius) i have never overclocked it, it's as is from new, all setting are set to default in bios. I'll provide a photo at idle. Specsheet: CPU: AMD FX8370 GPU: Nvidia 1050Ti Motherboard: gigabyte 12dc1-amd9se-250cr RAM: 16GB DDR3 PSU: Thermaltake 470w OS: Win11

I am crossposting this from Reddit to hopefully get some insight. I just upgraded my PC and I'm running into an odd issue. I bought a PC with an AsRock B450M-HDV R4.0 board with a Ryzen 3 2200G. I upgraded the CPU to a Ryzen 9 5900X and installed an ARC A750. I purchased a Thermalright Frost Spirit 140 to cool the CPU. I updated the BIOS to version 4.90 to make sure my CPU was compatible and I was able to enable Resizable Bar. I ran into issues last night where the PC would shut down almost immediately after getting into Windows. I had a Thermaltake 500W so I figured that was where the problem lied. I picked up an EVGA 750W PSU and the system is stable while web browsing and while discord is running. I attempted to boot up CS2 to see a comparison in frame rates and quality. As it was getting started the PC shut down again. Update: Black screened when downloading update for Phasmaphobia, then black screened when launching browser. It seems to not get as far as before. CPU and GPU temps are normal. CPU ~54 GPU ~64 Update: ran sfc scannow and it reported it had fixed errors. I checked the windows event log and there were a lot of errors, but nothing directly pointing to anything. Any suggestions?

I have decided to upgrade, currently there is a 5600 in my PC already, so in that case you would say "Then the obvious choice is the Ryzen 5900x" the thing is that I also want to upgrade after that but I would need to change my motherboard anyways at the end so its the same as with the 7600 eventually there will be a need for a motherboard swap but maybe the 5900x is better because upgrading is cheaper but I also want to add more Ram to my PC and that would cost more on AM5 than on AM4. On performance the 7600 and 5900x are very similar actually kinda like the 5600 and the 3900x, but when someone wins in gaming it is the 7600 but who wins in multi-core is the 5900x and honestly I kinda care more about multi core beacuse I am a person who likes running multiple apps at the same time and several instances of Visual Studio when I do coding and the 7600 wins in x264 encoding but honestly I think it would be less loss on performance with a 5900x. (Although performance loss probably would be barely a factor here.) So yeah I am kinda divided with this because I have 32gb but because I sometimes do many, many things at the same time it fills up and 64gb ram is very costly on AM5 compared to AM4 this is beacuse AM5 has DDR5 and AM4 DDR4. In conclusion I want you guys to tell me which should I pick up beacuse I am analyzing all my choices and I am thinking to go with the 5900x but then the upgrade thing is also killing me but it is pointless because after Zen 5 probably a new socket is coming.

Hi, I'm planning to buy a new monitor this summer Budget: 25 000CZK / 1080USD GPU: 7900 XT Requirements: -OLED display What I've been looking at reviews etc., I like the two monitors ASUS PG27AQDM and ASUS PG32UCDM I'm more interested in the PG32UCDM (Czech price 1 800 USD) but for that one I doubt it will drop 853 USD in price in 3/4 months so that one is out. And the other one I also found good and I'll probably choose it but before that I'd rather come here to ask if there are any better alternatives etc.

Hey everyone! I'm a bit stuck (and frustrated) at the moment trying to install drivers for my GPU on my newly built PC. My configuration is as follows: - CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X3D - CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM - Motherboard: Asus PRIME X670-P ATX AM5 - RAM: 4x Corsair Vengeance 32 GB DDR5-6600 CL32 - Storage: Samsung 980 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME - Secondary Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB SSD - GPU: ASRock Phantom Gaming OC Radeon RX 7700 XT 12 GB - Case: Fractal Pop Air RGB ATX - Power Supply: Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified (Fully Modular) Every time I am trying to update the drivers for the GPU, my system crashes, and restarts (the keyboard starts lighting up and turns off again at least 3 times every time this happens). I use AMD Adrenaline for the drivers, but I also tried it in the Device Manager. Then, sometimes, it boots back into Windows, but sometimes it goes into Automatic Repair, and then I have to reinstall Windows. I installed Windows 11 at first (several clean installs, but they didn't help). Now I've installed Windows 10 but the issue persists. When I looked in the device manager, the only missing drivers were the ones for my GPU (Radeon 7700 XT) and the Display Adapter driver. Those are the ones that my system crashes on. In the device manager I got error code 31. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you

I'm becoming more mobile and not using my desktop much. I'm considering of buy a 14" laptop for web development and light/casual gaming. It should handle 4k monitors easily without stuttering. I'm considering the Legion Slim 5 Gen 8 AMD (14") with RTX 4060, 32gb ram, AMD Ryzen™ 7 7840HS. I'm used to lenovo's warranty and they're quite good. What do you guys think?

Specs: GPU, Amd Radeon rx 6600 ASRock challenger Mother board, B650m aorus elite ax CPU, ryzen 7000 RAM, Flare x5 ddr5, 16 gb (X4) PSU, Corsair rm750e Details: When first building the computer everything was going well, the out of case test was successful, it booted to bios and everything was detected, after test conclusion I put it in the case, attached a couple extra fans, after everything was set up the red CPU indicator light is now on (previously it was not, no OS has been assigned or used for the computer, brand new parts) I have tried reseating CPU, I analysed the pins, none of which are bent, there is an even spread of the correct amount of thermal paste on the CPU itself, none has touched any of the pins. I have removed three of the ram sticks and have kept one at the farthest edge away from the CPU itself, the PSU works fine, the fans are all working as they should, I don't know what to do.

hello considering the 7900x3d is 50 euros more in my country is it goin to give a boost to gaming paired with an rtx 4070 super at 1440P resolution? the build is goin to do some productivity tasks to but gaming is a big part of the build(7800x3d is a no option).thnx in advance

Hi all, here we go again -amd 5900x -asus crosshair viii / WiFi (all was done with latest bios installed first - 5702 or something. Late march 2024) / ekwb waterblock made for the board, covers the vrms and cpu (only mounted with 4 screws but not fun to remove) -4x Corsair vengeance 18@3600, 16gb each (QVL ok) SIDE NOTE do have 4x 16@3200 16g sticks, nighthawks by teamforce. DOCP didn’t work / non qvl so swapped em out quite a while ago - no problems, just saying I have a spare set -asus 4090 w custom waterblock -xfx 6700 xt w custom block -pci 1x to 16x riser, usb 3.0 (unused ATM but plugged in) -quadro 4000 rtx -more radiators than necessary -all the fans are thermaltake something’s, high end/expensive. No RGB, either 2500/3000 rpm peak 120s and 140s -thermal take dc5 pump with 500ml res. -another dc5 pump connected to the drain ports on the top radiator (420mmx60mm) with a seperate 1L res. It’s there for redundancy and to help the primary pump cycle the water, yes that many radiators…. Still have one 140mmx60mm on “standby” waiting to be installed MORE IMPORTANTLY -seasonic 1000w bronze blah blah, ONLY powering the motherboard, cpu (aux cpu too) and 4090. Only powering the molex for the TT pump. I mean face it, I’ll use the best brand to power the most crucial stuff -“gamemax” 1050w bronze powering 8x sata drives, the fan hub, 6700/quadro and molex to pump 2 (“jump started” with lol, one of my many mobo this pin to that pin things) this guys outside the case -DO have a spare psu, seasonic 1500w PLATINUM, Corsair. Had it in a while ago then did math and figured out at 80% peak efficiency (assuming) I had ~1200w to work with. Say the least when the pc was under 100% load it couldn’t sustain and my system would just shut off. Again doing math, 230w max TDP on cpu, 75w per pci, 8x SSDs, fan hub, toss in the video cards…. Yeah. Should mention it’s an EU version (I guess it’s better than US? I dono, wasn’t intentional), have a EU to US 120v power cable. It’s gotta be 12/10 gauge per wire, pos/neg/ground. Easy to find in my cache of pc stuff cause duh. It’s super thick +since I noticed issues with power that’s when I took it out an opted for 2x PSU’s rather than one (thing was large too, had to pull out the aforementioned 140mm radiator to make room) -thermal take TT71 view full/E-atx case, it’s all been taken apart to a skeleton since I did the psu swap. Yes I did swap the Corsair power lines for the appropriate PSUs, pain in the butt -both PSUs are plugged directly into the outlet and each outlets are on seperate breakers (haven’t tripped one… yet) -2x Samsung 980 1tb nvmes, 2023 manufacture date, made in Korea or Vietnam… forget. HAD 2021 variants which thanks to Samsung failed to release a “notification” to update the firmware immediately or your drives will die. Just saying, anyone reading this, yeah… -GPU’s are installed top to bottom in order mentioned (think that’s all, at least what’s relevant?) PROBLEM: Q-code reads 00, can’t do bios flashback via usb cause I noticed they don’t light up on POST. See “what I’ve tried” for more details. WHAT MAY HAVE HAPPENED: day prior I was fiddling with overclocking the CPU. Using HWinfo for duh, cinebench r23/aida64(prime95?)/nicehash(only cpu was enabled) for monitoring and writing down voltages per core, core “order” preferred. Basicallly I was handwriting cinebench scores (5 min stress multi and single), hashrates etc along with the values as reported by HWinfo, voltages/temps and so on. I had NOT been working with the PBO scalar at this point. ALL bios were stock aside from a few minor areas unrelated, SVM and 4g decoding, raid, disabled EDC (whatever for power efficiency/auto downstepping, ERP?) anyway I had gotten to 46x multiplier in main menu, CCX 0/1 to 46 also. Power settings were set to “extreme”, 120% on cpu, 140 (I think) on DRAM. most settings were either enabled or left to auto. If I recall correctly I eventually just went to auto to eliminate variables by the time I got to stressing it I wrote down values, my notes are in the office, I noticed at 4600mhz (cores aren’t set to go faster or slower) the mobo wouldn’t supply more than 1.300v per core, 12 total. At this point cinevench would crash and Nicehash would “blow up” the pc (immediate shut down) so I toned it all down to 43x, ccd0/1 too. Figured I’d be on the safe side doing so, plus I got the best results in my notes. ~20100 on cinebench, .00890 hashrate (again may be inaccurate, notes upstairs) tpu I and II set to “none”, uh that application preference thing to “none” (It has options for Geekbench, cinebench and 2 others) BLCLK at 100.00 from there I had her mining all night, after a few hours I enabled the 3 GPUs. Woke up the next day and yep, all was still good and going. ~1.204v avg on all cores So now I’m like… hmm. Let’s try to increase the voltage one step at a time and keep the everything the same. I have a saved bios profile on a USB of the most stable setup so why not? I forget what the positive increments were but from none I hit “+” and it… offset, increased? Idk whatever it did, by like .00264 something. The minimal amount Saved, restart, windows was stable. Though I did notice the monitor would go blank on login (auto login via registry). The gpu would kick in (after the “dos” spinny image) and I’d see my username which has a profile pic of my dog, blank, dog again pc is thinking, blank, then desktop as usual. Mind you the “blank” was just black screen and basically a quick flicker i don’t recall checking HwInfo, my assumption was my clock speed was too “low” for the additional voltage. I naturally figured no point in stressing it or checking restsrt, bumped up one more (now we’re at + twice, so two “minimal” increments) and went to 4600 to compensate. I mean, 4600 worked fine aside from crashing due to the 1.3v “lock” I noticed the day before. Hence why I stepped it up a tad one last time bam, BSOD loop. Whoopsie. now this part I’m unsure as I don’t remember completely what I did. Back to bios, removed the voltage offset, went down to 43x all over, and I’m pretty sure I adjusted the VRM/delivery from extreme to optimal, put cpu voltage to 120% peak, down’ed the ram to 110%. Basically my mindset was I’m getting too excited and I had best stay in a safe bubble. save/restart ahhhhh darn, q-code of 00 and nothing. Literally no POST, waited watching the q-code LED and no change. Fudge! WHAT HAVE I TRIED? -first logical step, hit the clear CMOS button on the IO panel, the green one. It’s worked in the past just not with a 00 code. No dice -thought for a second, looked at the manual. Hm, there’s a button on the motherboard for safe boot. Ok. Squeezed my finger in there blind and felt it (the little button isn’t by any others by far) and pushed it. Nope -flipped off the power, waited maybe ten seconds then unplugged the PSUs. Waited idk ten minutes, reversed the above and hit the glowing start button. Nothing. Tried safe boot again, nothing -snap, now I’m in a pickle. Removed power sources as noted above and flipped the switch on the motherboard for SLOW MODE. Yes only switch on the bottom, mentioned in manual, yada yada. Power applied again, still 00. Well… let’s reflash the bios via the button and a usb -flipped safe boot off, (done this before) and used a laptop (hp 8760w/32g/3x SSDs/m.2 as boot/datacenter 2022) to setup a usb. First used a 128g drive, went to format and duh, ntfs or exFAT. Nah that won’t work, plus it don’t have a blinky light as an IO indicator. Grabbed my BIOS drive with the saved profiles, shoved the same bios I have on it, root directory and renamed to C8HW.cap (whatever it should be). No go. It’s only a 512mb but I do know the pc is finicky about it and spits a Qcode if I load a profile/save/reboot and leave it plugged in. Eh maybe it’s just the stick, no biggie -busted out my ziplock of flash drives. All varying capacities and brands. One drive was too large (according to manual it says = or less than 2gb) so I just did diskpart and cleaned the volume. Then cleaned the drive. Made a 1g partition at the “start” of the drive and fat32’d it. No dice again 1gb drive, another 512, and a 256mb (haha yep), all done same as above minus the partitioning. Just clean/format fat32 and “whatever”.cap. Nothing read a thread that said sometimes using windows to unzip a file can corrupt a bios file. Winrar is a better option, ok Last attempt, 512mb stick I usually use, same process just with winrar. Nothing Manual says once the button goes blue it’ll blink and stay blue, could take some time but once it isn’t blue anymore it’s done. So pc is still sitting there with the blue light on and stuck in the obvious port labeled for flashback (just being descriptive for sake of a response asking if I used the correct usb port) so far, nothing -prior to the last/current usb, swapped cpu power from the seasonic to the “gamemax”. No go. Figure that was a pointless route since just below the power headers has a red light that stays illuminated if, duh, no power (provided the mobo has power). Power delivery is fine -also removed cpu-opt fan from header. Removed HUB from cpu header and plugged in a spare fan. Still 00 -oh and left the pc with no power for at least 24 hours. Both PSUs off and unplugged. Nothing - even without the “gamemax” PSU connected CONCLUSION? 00 indicates a cpu issue or a motherboard issue. Taking a wild guess tinkering with the bios, trying to reflash it entirely messed it up. Without a UART flasher I can’t do it manually also I might have messed the cpu up. Not sure if it’s plausible cause a MOBO of this… nature has failsafes built in to prevent “blowing it up”. I’ve had similar issues in the past and instead of panicking I just let it sit without power, then all would be fine as mentioned the usb sticks never blink even without hitting the reflash button. So if the mobo don’t detect a cpu, it stops any POST attempts thereafter. Hence, no usb activity. Sure my crap via usb gets power, gaming mat and junk. Otherwise nothing i dont have a spare cpu laying around to try out. Kinda wish I did! Prior to all this mess I was playing Horizon Forbidden West CE on my G9 with full settings on. Blah! so now ya know the story. What to try first? Only thing I haven’t done is take out all the GPUs or swap the ram. Highly doubt it would matter, no cpu? POST wont check anything beyond that keep in mind the board DOES have “pins” to check voltages with a voltometer. Meh, maybe try that? any, any ideas would be a great help. (Whining) I wanna play my games! BTW as mentioned I have a usb with saved profiles on it. I been backing em up since I finished the build. If anybody has a way of viewing them (dono how, are they saved in text?) maybe that would provide best course of action?

Just replaced my 3070 with 7900 XT. I used DDU to clean up previous drivers and looked for location where sharers caches might have been to clean them up. So far, installation went flawlessly, I did a quick test on Resident Evil 2 Remake and Ready or Not, both working well (outside of RoN love for shader stutters, but they are expected and quickly disappeared) Before the switch I did some benchmarking with default configuration and my custom curve, using MSI Afterburner, so would be able to compare effects on the switch. Anyway I definitely will be messting around with OC/UV so, it make sense to gather information and maybe make a report post in a couple of weeks. So, the question is, what I can use to measure average FPS and 1% lows? There seems to be some statistic in Adrenaline driver utility, but I'm not sure if I can use it for 1% lows and how. Also would be happy to learn any tips about AMD cards in general.

Hi there, I was just recently browsing alphacool's website and noticed that I could pick up a waterblock for about $80 usd. Although on the website it only lists the XFX Merc 319 RX 6900 XT card as being compatible. I was just curious if there is anyone out there with experience watercooling AMD cards and could let me know if they'd be compatible. Here's the link to the waterblock: https://shop.alphacool.com/en/shop/gpu-water-cooling/amd/11956-eisblock-aurora-acryl-gpx-a-radeon-rx-6800xt/6900xt-merc-319-with-backplate?currency=3 Also, would anybody who has experience watercooling high end graphics cards be able to give advice on a good Radiator / PUMP combo to fit into a Seasonic Syncro Q704 case (it's inverted ATX and i want to keep the 3.5" drive bay). I already have a 280mm AiO Bequiet cooler in the front, and I was hoping to go with a 360mm copper rad in the top to the GPU block? Please let me know best cooling advice. SYNCRO-Q704-PSU.pdf 11956_Alphacool_Eisblock_Aurora_Acryl_GPX-A_Radeon_RX_6800XT-6900XT_MERC_319_with_Backplate_Manual.pdf ENG_11956_Alphacool_Eisblock_Aurora_Acryl_GPX-A_Radeon_RX_6800XT-6900XT_MERC_319_with_Backplate_datasheet.pdf

Which Gpu is best to go for? They is only £30 between them, I know the rx 6750 XT is older and the rx 7600 xt has 16gbs of vram vs the 12gbs on the rx 6750 xt both are XFX cards. My motherboard has only pcie 3 slots.

Current SPECS: Ryzen 5 3600, 6600XT, 32GB 3200MHz, Aorus Elite B450M, XPG Pylon 650 Budget (including currency): 100-150 USD Country: Pakistan Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: GTA V, RUST, RDR2, AC Valhalla & I do 4K video editing too (mostly large projects). Plus I'm learning UE5 on this machine.

I have a AMD Ryzen 5 2400g and i noticed that it only uses 20w of the 65w TDP and my GPU (GTX 1650) only uses 56w of the 75w TDP. i don't have any idea why, my power supply is 400w so it should provide de wattage. both GPU and CPU are power limited. btw my bios is stock.

Which one of these gpu would be best? Gigabyte AMD Radeon RX 7600 XT GAMING OC 16GB GDDR6 Graphics Card https://www.scan.co.uk/products/gigabyte-radeon-rx-7600-xt-gaming-oc-16gb-gddr6-ray-tracing-graphics-card-rdna3-2048-streams-2810mhz XFX AMD Radeon RX 7600 XT Speedster SWFT 210 16GB GDDR6 Graphics Card https://www.scan.co.uk/products/xfx-radeon-rx-7600-xt-speedster-swft-210-16gb-gddr6-ray-tracing-graphics-card-rdna3-2048-streams-275 Would both of them work with my motherboard which is a Asrock b450 steel legend atx am4 motherboard which is pcie 3 though.

Don't even ask why I'm using Windows XP, it's a hobby project. Anyway what the title suggests is true, running the very latest Catalyst drivers available for XP. When on the desktop its extremely laggy and black rectangles frequently appear. Any GPU intensive application runs worse than it did on the older board-integrated graphics. CPU is an AMD Athlon 64 4000+.

So I've basically already decided on the 6800 but I wanted to hear what some of you guys think and if maybe I should go for the 6800xt instead and or if the 6700XT and 6800 are so comparable it that I should go with the cheaper one. As far as I know the 6800 is better than the 6700XT by quite a bit.

Hi, just made my account to seek for help after digging ~5 hrs into solving the problem... I installed the AMF enabled ffmpeg, following exactly how the Github instruction said, and compiled ffmpeg without issues. Driver Linux · GPUOpen-LibrariesAndSDKs/AMF Wiki (github.com) However, things are getting tricky when I try to use the h264_amf flag. As someone had also raised an issue here [Bug]: AMF failed to initialize on the default Vulkan device: 1 on Ubuntu 22.04 · Issue #358 · GPUOpen-LibrariesAndSDKs/AMF (github.com), I encountered this issue as well. I did a fresh install on my machine, Minisforum UM780 XTX (7840HS, Radeon 780M GPU). At the end of the day so sad nothing seems to be working with AMD... Tried AMF and VDPAU. Essentially, I want to use it to convert videos to m3u8 for streaming services, and I used the following command for testing. The result is attached, `ffmpeg -hwaccel auto -i input.mp4 -c:v h264_amf output.mp4` Would be appreciated if any help could be offered. Cheers.

Budget (including currency): $2000 CAD Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Starfield, F1 23, streaming & recording (including from external consoles), emulation, LoL, potentially some light video editing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Current parts list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/BjtrCd Current system: MSI GE62 7RD Apache Laptop Buy plan: Probably at least a few months to a year, but sorting out how I'd like to build today so I am ready with a plan Preferences: 1440p resolution 100-180 Hz refresh AMD CPU / GPU Low-cost PWM fans Seasonic power supply (Really like the company / build quality / want to support them and include in my build) Prefer Sapphire GPU (Nitro+ / Pulse) for personal preference on looks over other GPUs and stupid personal reasons Want most of my money to be in the GPU Chose parts with RGB working together in mind after a few parts ended up being RGB. Hello LTT Community! I am a long-time YouTube watcher, first-time poster, and first-time builder. After doing a bunch of research on how I would like to build my PC, I landed on the PC parts listed above. Here is a little dive into some of the justification as to the parts pertinent to my questions: Asus Prime AP201 MicroATX Case: This is one of the cheapest mATX cases I have found with looks I like, has a USB-C front IO, and a smaller form factor that isn't in the mid-tower size. It's also great for airflow based on my research, but provides a few challenges on that front (more on that later). Sapphire Nitro+ RX 7800 XT: First of all, I couldn't give two hoots about ray tracing, and AMD's extra VRAM alongside its great pricing compared to NVIDIA makes this an easy choice for me. I also just like the fact that I'm choosing AMD over NVIDIA from a company standpoint. I think 4K is a waste of time for me, and 1440p is more than adequate for my needs and wants. I also went with the 7800 over the 7700 since it was a minor price bump for significant performance improvements. I went with the Nitro for personal preference on looks and RGB (one place I decided to splurge a little for myself), but still considering the Pulse as a possible alternative, and I just like Sapphire as a GPU builder in general. ASRock B650M Pro RS Wifi mATX Motherboard: I find it really silly just how much money motherboard manufacturers are selling their boards for these days, and I think you get very little extra for expensive boards that I really care about. This board has everything I need, except maybe enough headers to accommodate my airflow/RGB needs (again, more on that later). I really want to spend as little as I can get away with on my motherboard, and this seemed to work well for my needs. InWin Luna AL120 3-Pack: These fans aren't perfect solutions, but they are currently my top choice for static pressure, good airflow, lower noise, and the bonus of RGB. Currently deciding on how many fans I need, between 3 and 6. Not a fan of the fact that these are sleeve bearing fans, I would prefer fluid bearings as I heard they function better mounted horizontally and are generally quieter, but I am still a novice in this area (and in general ) and I'm not entirely sure as to what makes the most sense on bearings. I also absolutely want PWM fans. Deepcool GAMMAXX GT V2: I definitely want air cooling, hate the idea of having water-cooling in my PC, and this was a reasonably cheap option that looked nice (especially with the RGB endplate) and seemed more than adequate for my needs. Ryzen 5 7600: Small note here, I chose this intentionally over the 7600X for its lower TDP and lower price while still being more than enough processing for what I need. On to the questions! 1) Fans: sleeve vs fluid bearing & static pressure My current understanding is that sleeve bearing fans are best used in the vertical position, and since I only have one option for a vertical fan in the AP201 case, should I instead be considering other options? I chose the InWin Lunas for their static pressure for the bottom intakes to get past the dust filter, great airflow, low cost, being moderately quiet, and the bonus RGB. I was also considering the Thermalright TL-S12-S fans for similar reasons while also being fluid bearings, but was largely concerned about needing another kind of fan to have more static pressure for the dust filter at the bottom of the case. Maybe this is me being overly cautious about the filter and it's actually a non-issue, please let me know! I was also considering the Noctua S12B redux-1200 fans for their fluid bearings, good airflow and unmatched low sound while also being low-cost, but again was concerned about static pressure in front of the filter. They also have no RGB, but I care less about that. Between these options, I guess I really need to know if the horizontal nature of the majority of my fans is going to cause a problem for my sleeve bearing top choice, and if I need to consider static pressure considerations at all when considering that dust filter. I am also open to hearing suggestions from the community for low-cost, low-noise fans that suit this case / configuration. 2) Setting up an optimal fan configuration for slight positive pressure in the AP201 case While this case is excellent for airflow with its all-mesh design, the ability to mount fans is limited to (in 120mm size) 3 on the top, 1 in the rear, and 2 on the bottom. The power supply is mounted at the front, so no fans can be mounted there. It is also important to note that there is a dust filter on the bottom of the case which is causing my novice brain no end of headaches. This leads me to a couple of different possible fan configurations. 3 exhaust top, 2 intake bottom, 1 exhaust rear: Max fans for max cooling and max light show. This is probably my least desirable setup because (I think) this would almost certainly lead to negative pressure in the case and is just asking for all kinds of dust build-up. I'm assuming fan speed can be adjusted to accommodate, but that just seems like I'm wasting money on too many fans at that point. 2 exhaust top, 2 intake bottom: Simple math, two in, two out, likely good for neutral pressure in the case, but I'm also unsure if the dust filter at the bottom is going to cause a static pressure problem and once again lead to negative pressure. This is largely why I chose the InWin Lunas as they were supposed to have good static pressure while also providing excellent airflow with the light show, and I wondered if fan speed can be adjusted to compensate. 2/3 exhaust top, 0/1 exhaust rear: Maybe I don't even need bottom fans. One of the hardest questions I've had to find an answer for is whether or not GPU fans should be considered in the airflow profile of your case for ensuring positive pressure. The Sapphire Nitro+ 7800XT is a beefy card: a three slot, three fan design. It will likely be very close to the bottom of the case and I don't know if there will even be enough space for the 2 bottom intake fans after that, and I'm unsure if the card itself will be enough intake to balance out the exhaust. Again, also concerned that this is where the dust filter is too. Is it recommended to have those fans under the GPU or not? If there won't be enough clearance for fans, should I also consider the Sapphire Pulse 7800XT, which is a two slot, two fan design to help make room for the extra fans to help balance out the exhaust at the top? I haven't really found a straightforward answer to this question for a case with this kind of cooling configuration (as most people do mid tower builds) and would definitely like to hear opinions. 3) Adequate fan / RGB headers As a follow-on to the previous section, the ASRock B650M Pro RS Wifi motherboard comes with 1 CPU fan connector, 3 chassis fan connectors, 1 RGB header and 3 ARGB headers. Some of my fan configurations call for as many as 6 case fans and 1 CPU fan, all potentially with RGB. Ideally I would like to have my fans controlled by the BIOS and set my fan curves that way, and I would also ideally like to have all my components' RGB (which may include the graphics card if I choose the Nitro+) synced up, with only 3 or 4 headers to make use of. I do know that fan controllers do exist, but I am waaaay too novice to know what I need in this department. Am I just short on headers, or is there a solution that allows me to keep the motherboard I've chosen while allowing me to control the fan speed and RGB how I'd like? 4) GPU size and the AP201 case Like I mentioned above, the Sapphire Nitro+ 7800XT is a big three slot, three fan design that is 320mm long. It TECHNICALLY fits in the case, but am I going to need a bracket for sag, does the case even support that bracket, and am I just being too ambitious in the size of the card here? Should I just go for the 280mm long Pulse 7800XT instead and save myself the headache? And if in the fan discussion above, it is determined I do actually need bottom intake fans, will the Nitro+ give me enough clearance for those? 5) Monitor recommendations I'll keep it simple: 1440p, soft ceiling of 180 Hz (since I don't really care or need to have refresh rates beyond that, but willing to go beyond if it happens to be a cheaper monitor), would like to be able to turn it long-ways if I want to, low-latency, good colour/contrast, reasonable IO, IPS preferred, and as budget as it can be (not interested in spending a crapton on a monitor. I was shooting for around $300 CAD, but I can go higher if the monitors just aren't good). I just have no idea what I'm doing in this space, and the Acer monitor in the parts list is my best guess at a good monitor for my needs. I know that this is a whole lot of stuff, and I hope the community can help. Thank you very much in advance, I am a very excited (and enthusiastic!) new builder who is a bit of a perfectionist when wanting to get everything together in a new project. I also welcome general suggestions on my build if you have a personal preference one way or another.