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Showing results for tags 'air'.
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Hey guys. I replaced my Lian Li Galahad Trinity AIO with a replacement AIO that’s the exact same, because it made a swish/bubble noise every time I turned on my pc. However the one I replaced it with is doing the same thing but louder. If I leave my computer off for like 8+ hours, I hear the air bubbles when it turns on. It doesn’t occur when the pc restarts or turns off for like an hour. What do I do? My pump running 80% speed and I’ve tilted my case over and over…. It’s super odd that multiple units do the same thing. The sound goes away after a few seconds and then I hear the pop or little tiny bubbles getting pushed out of the pump for the next 20 seconds….. it makes no sense. I asked a few people, and one said to move the tubes on the AIO block itself to the top. So like if i rotated my pump 90 degrees... I can try and do that, but i might make a mess lol. I don't know if that will fix it or not... I also set my pump speed lower than normal, around 2700 instead of the 2800-2900 the Lian Li Trinity 2 AIO allows. The picture below is my computer, and the video below is the video of the OLD pump. You can hear the noise, but on the new one it's a whole lot louder than that. I probably should've stayed with my old pump... video1.mp4
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hey, I'm got some parts and i'm planning on trowing a new server togehter with a dual xeon e5-2680 v4. Now i'm still missing a case and coolers to finnish the build. I really only have 4U of rackspace avaible so i was thinking to buy a INTER-TECH IPC 4U-4088-S because it is cheap. Now i can't seems to find a good cooler smaller then 130mm in height that also can handle the 120W of TDP those chips have. I live in belgium if that is important in your suggestion. Thanks in advance Anak
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I am thinking of buying a Macbook Air M2 base model. I am not a huge multitasker and usually close all applications which are not currently in use and just reopen them later and i prefer to do it this way. I want to play Minecraft occasionally on high settings and a render distance of 12. I also want to use medium quality shaders. Is 8gb ram enough to maintain constant 60fps or will it start feeding into swap?
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So Im in the process of building a new PC, I enjoy enthusiast-tier air cooling and tend to upgrade my case fans and heatsink fans and have a large case with plenty of space. Will be installing on to an AM5 Build. Its just been a while and Im not sure what is out there these days. I was wondering why nobody seems to buy the "Thermalright Frost Commander 140" as testing has shown it actually cools better than the Noctua D-15 at full fan speed at the expense of some noise simply because the fans are higher RPM. But also because the cooler is just $60 USD. Seems to be a slam-dunk product if you ask me Also wondering what kind of thermal paste I should get. I used to use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut as it was the best on the market for thermal conductivity while not being electrically conductive. I heard they have better products these days and others have apparently stepped up to compete?
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Im trying to get into the habit of cleaning my pc every 4-6 months and its been 5 but I dont have any compressed air so I asked my parents if I could get some or an air blower but instead they asked me if I could just use and air mattress pump, and that makes a lot of sense since it does blow air out, but I just wanted to ask first to be careful.
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I am esthetic about the new MacBook Air, It kind of sucks though I am being forced to custom order the bloody thing. I need the 16GB ram upgrade though, I thought of doing the 24GB upgrade but with it being Unix based. I am confident it will perform well without issue considering my use cases. Which will be mainly using the browser, and a few apps. The main reason, I am getting a Mac though is the accessibility features which in my opinion outrank anyone. Super excited to watch the video reviewing it, I hope it's released soon!
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Over the past few weeks I have been researching a lot and starting a lot of threads in different areas of the Forum discussing details and benefits of certain components. I do NOT have a Micro Center nearby, in fact the closest Micro Center is 350 miles away, so if you would like to suggest Micro Center Deals, they must be deals that can be shipped. The main use of this PC will be gaming with a side of multitasking. Targeted gaming performance is 120 FPS at 3440x1440 resolution with High to Ultra Settings (No artificial frame generation). I do not care about Ray Tracing or Cuda. I do multitask a bit but it has been concluded that I shouldn't really need more than a 8-Core/16-Thread CPU. I do upload videos to YouTube but just for fun or to show friends something they wanted to see, I am not a YouTuber by trade. The heaviest CPU workloads I do are editing video, gaming while streaming, gaming while recording, or just CPU heavy gaming scenarios with un-optimized games such as Playing Star Citizen or 7 Days to Die while streaming the video feed to Discord chats. I am a fan of enthusiast-grade Air Cooling and the fact that top-tier Air Coolers can match the cooling performance of most 240mm AIOs if you can manage to supply them with enough fresh air. My chosen case reflects that with massive airflow capabilities. So with all that said, I will list off the planned components and mods. Feedback is welcome but at this point the parts list is basically finalized including planned mods. CORE COMPONENTS: CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X-3D ($449.99 - May wait for sale, in no rush) GPU: Radeon RX 7900-XTX (Power Color Red Devil Edition - ALREADY OWN) RAM: 32GB (16 x 2) G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB 6000MHz CL30 ($149.99) MotherBoard: B-650 Standard-ATX Gigabyte Aorus Pro ($249.99 - Will consider similar MoBo with similar feature set and Overclocking capabilities for a decent value) Power Supply: Seasonic Focus PX-850 [Platinum 850-Watt] (ALREADY OWN) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2TB NVME M.2 4.0 [Boot Drive + Core Applications + Most Important Games], Kingston NV2 4TB NVME M.2 4.0 [Mass Storage + Less Important Games] (ALREADY OWNED) CASE AND COOLING: PC Case/Chassis: Lian Li LanCool 216 ($99.99) CPU Cooler: DeepCool Assassin-IV (NOT RELEASED YET - Should be released in about the next month with a projected price of $119.99) Fan Upgrades: None Required Thermal Paste: Gelid GC Extreme - 3.5 Grams ($7.99 - Need Extra for Mods and other projects) Note: Mods will be done to enhance cooling, see Mods section below MODIFICATIONS: Ryzen 7800X-3D Lapping (0.8-1.0mm material removal): Thermal Grizzly Lapping Tool + Sand Paper ($19.99 + $19.99) Radeon Red Devil RX 7900-XTX Re-Paste: Gelid GC Extreme (Price Mentioned Earlier) MODIFICATION GOAL: The goal of these modifications is to provide enough thermal headroom for strong-ish overclocking on Air Cooling without pushing temps too far. BUILD THEME: Theme is centered around the Red Devil RX 7900-XTX. Components will be all black where possible with LED lighting set to Red with Meteor Effect. OTHER NOTES: I am in no rush to finish this build, I am looking to get a good value overall so I am willing to wait until the 7800X-3D goes on sale in the future or AM5 MotherBoards go even further down in price. I am willing to wait until as late as Black Friday 2023.
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Hello! I'm currently looking for a replacement AIO for my main rig (i7-9700k) and an air cooler for my backup setup (i7-4770k). Recently, my Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 stopped working, the pump was making rattling noises and I had to move the case around to get it to start. It's quite dissapointing that it failed after just two years, particularly because this is the first time I've experienced an AIO cooler dying before the 5-year mark. I've started the RMA process (I believe the new 6-year warranty is retroactive) but they haven't responded yet (it's been 4 days) and I can't wait two months for it to finish since I use that PC for heavy workloads. Anyway, after checking the CPU Cooler Tier List, I found the following models available at local stores: AIO Tier 1: Deepcool Infinity LT520 240 - $127.06 Deepcool LS520 240 ARGB - $142.88 AIO Tier 2: Cougar Aqua 280 ARGB - $83.83 EVGA CLC 240 RGB - $113.40 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 - $124.40 Lian Li Galahad 240 Black ARGB - $129.71 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 - $143.86 Air Tier 2: DeepCool Assassin III - $119.07 Air Tier 3: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.Black - $155.97 I have read only positive reviews about the DeepCool LT520, so I'm considering it. However, the prices of the Cougar Aqua 280 and EVGA CLC 240 have caught my eye. Since there's a possibility of having a spare Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240, I'm interested in trying something different, like the Lian Li Galahad 240. As for my backup PC, I have heard that Noctua is releasing an update this year, so I am leaning towards the DeepCool Assassin III. Are there any important details about these models that I should know, such as pump quality or warranty information? What would you recommend? Thank you in advance!
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Today I installed my new NH-U12A on my R5 3600, replacing the stock cooler. I've gone from idle temps of 38-40c to 33-34c. My cinebench r23 multi core runs went from 9111 points and 92c peak 89-90c average to a 9173, 89 - - and 9148 with peak 89c and average 86c. This doesn't seem like anywhere near the expected performance increase :/. I'm using pbo. Case is meshify c. I did clean the IHS with a microfibre cloth before applying the paste but maybe I didn't apply the paste very well?
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Hi everyone, I just upgraded the fans on my Corsair H100i aio for greater performance. They are in a push confirmation at the top of the case like everything was before. My question however is when I put my hand on the outside of the case to check airflow there is only air coming from the right side of the radiator as if the other side is blocked. I was curious is this normal or is this something I need to fix. Thank you
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I'm currently using a dark rock 4, my cpu is an i7 8700k. I was wondering if that was enough for keeping my cpu cooled or if I should swap it out with a liquid cooler. I don't overclock at all either and I kind of wanted to stay away because liquid cooling is higher maintenance & then there are risks of them leaking and killing my pc.
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Hey guys! I'm doing an at home experiment for my physics degree due to covid restrictions, and I need to suck water up a straight vertical tube. I'm not a super practical person and I've been racking my brain for ages to find a nice cheap solution, and then it occurred to me that water cooling enthusiasts might have some experience/ideas on this. Let me describe the problem in detail. The bigger picture is that I want to put a vertical tube in a tank, draw water up the tube, then release the water so that it drops back down the tube and oscillates up and down within the tube. What I need to figure out is a cheap and simple way to draw the fluid up the tube initially. The tube must be rigid, straight, and transparent. The tube will be about 1m in length, and I would like to be able to draw the fluid nearly to the top but not all the way to the top where it'd overflow. I must be able to draw the fluid slowly enough that I could precisely set the height anywhere on the tube. The tube diameter is not yet decided, but I would be happy to use standard sized pipes and fittings, ideally a tube between 0.5-2cm in diameter would be good (but I'm flexible on this). I was thinking that I'd need to put a valve on the top of the tube then use a suction pump to draw water up the tube, then seal the valve, and when I'm ready to drop the fluid, quickly open the valve again. It would be a bonus (really not necessary if it's not very easy to incorporate) if I could get an accurate pressure measurement of the air inside the tube before I drop the fluid. Also, once I open the valve I don't want it to restrict air flow too much as this would stop the fluid falling freely. I want the pressure in the tube to near instantly reach atmospheric pressure after opening the valve. I'd like to achieve all this for under £50 (ideally quite a bit less than that). I'm in the UK, so please could you recommend parts that I'd be able to get here, and I'm not limited to buying PC water cooling parts, literally anything that will do the job is fine! I'd be really grateful for any advice, parts recommendations, alternative methods, etc. (I suppose one alternative method is that I could pump water into the bottom of the tube then seal it with a valve at the top and remove the pump apparatus from the bottom of the tube before opening the valve again. I am aware I could also lower the tube into the tank, seal it, then lift it up, but this isn't viable for me as I won't have a deep enough tank to be able to get the water far enough up the tube.)
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- water
- water cooling
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What would be better idea to go for, Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 on the side of air coolers or Cooler Master ML240R RGB on AIO side? It will be cooling 5800X. From Tier list ML240 is better but is it really? Also how is reliability of this CM stuff? Pride delta is 10€. Case will be NZXT H510 if that makes any difference.
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Will a push aio on the top of the case push the hot air generated below it through the radiator heating up the liquid?
- 12 replies
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- aio
- liquid cooling
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Hi there I'm a film student about to finish his degree in film and Tv. I plan on freelancing next year and i need to upgrade my current laptop, a 2011 13 inch Macbook pro with 16gb of ram and a 2.7ghz i7 processor. I don't have a big budget being a student and realistically can only afford the cheapest mac that can get the job done. I was originally looking ay getting the 15 inch 2015 macbook pro with the top of the line processor and 16gb of ram. Now i see that the M1 Macbook air is out and causing all this buzz and i was wondering if that would be a better option. Where i live in South Africa the two choices are around the same price and I'm struggling to pick between the two. I love the idea of having a 15 inch screen and 16 gb of ram with the 2015 mac but wonder if the M1 chip is worth giving those up for? Let me know your thoughts thanks>
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Are custom loops better than regular air coolers or AIO’s in terms of temps? I’ve been thinking about this for a while now and I know, custom loops look sick if they are done correctly. But is it actually practical for temps? Do you get way better temps from it for your CPU and GPU? Are they easy to build?
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Have a HP Pavillion 15.6" Gaming Laptop, i5 10300H, GTX 1650. CPU gets very hot, fluctuating between 88 and 98 degrees centigrade while in game. I hear this is somewhat normal for gaming laptops due to bad airflow in the small spaces, but still not ideal for best cpu performance and longevity. Looking for a good laptop cooling pad that can drop the temp by 10 to 15 degrees. Ideally drop it by 20 degrees, but that may be wishful thinking. I have seen a few with mixed reviews regarding how many degrees it takes off. Looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kootek-Laptop-Cooling-Cooler-Adjustable/dp/B01469DJLM/ref=asc_df_B01469DJLM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076677096&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4799941364653005880&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012028&hvtargid=pla-379048175922&psc=1#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div If you search the reviews for "degree" the majority of results seem to be pretty positive. Does anyone here have any suggestions as to a good one? Would like to spend under $30. Thanks.
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can I still use Touch ID to login to my m1 MacBook Air or would I have to use my password every time even if I just wake it up by opening the lid and not just when I reboot it?
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So i got my hands on a 5900x. It's a great processor but runs hotter than i expected. My D15s is still working fine on stock(70c cinebench, 75c aida CPU+FPU), but with PBO enabled, temp start to get a bit too hot(82c+ cinebench). Still works, but not impressive. Also the clock is pretty medicore (4250mhz@180W). At the same time my local store actually has EVGA CLC 280s on sale (105CAD+tax). As their fans known to be suck, i also happened to have two Arctic P14 PWMs as case intake and i can just use these better fans. So my question is, for a upgrading cost of 30-40 CAD (after flipping the D15s), what kind of improvement can i expect? Is it worth the price (and hassle) or should i just keep the D15S? Some other options that's already been vetoed: 1. Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280: Too pricey, also interferes with my GPU 2. Any 360 aio: same as above 3. Add another fan to D15S: I actually has a spare A12X25, but it always stop spinning after reboot and there were barely any improvement even if it's working 4. Just don't do AIO and save till you can afford real watercooling: Not now, probably a future topic Thanks in advance.
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Heyo, first time posting on the forum. I wanted to ask, does anyone have any idea if the thermal pad mod for the M1 MacBook air would also be effective on the M1 Pro? I found a single video on YouTube that seems to indicate yes, especially if you tune the fan curve (though the modder seemed disappointed with the results). Nevertheless, I wanted to try to get some advise one way or the other from someone who might know better (or maybe even has some experience c: ) Appreciate any insight!
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I have to choose between those two coolers, now i have a ryzen 1700 but i'm going to upgrade to a 5900x. Noctua pros: air cooling has less failing points, probably more durable and more silent (i think) Cons: it's very big and can have problems with the ram ( kfa2 HOF, very tall ram)with the headsinks of the motherboard ( x470 asus prime pro) and the case ( NZXT s340 elite). Artic pros: a little more cooling performance, the cpu ares it's more clean and unoccupied, has a fan for the ram and the vrm. Cons: more possible failing points and the consequences of water coming out are more dangerous, and my case don't allow to mount in the correct position showed by Steve from gamers nexus ( the tubs in the radiator down and not up) . They cost the same so price is indifferent.
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Hi guys, I find a lot of confusion between choosing from water to air or air to water cant decide which one is the best of the best sometime I think of water cooling then on the other side I thinks of air cooling which one of both is the best and which is the far most excellent item Some suggestions Please... Doing a complete new build. with following specs PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Threadripper 3990X 2.9 GHz 64-Core Processor $3699.99 @ B&H CPU Cooler be quiet! Dark Rock Pro TR4 59.5 CFM CPU Cooler $89.90 @ Amazon Thermal Compound Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 1g 1 g Thermal Paste $5.94 @ ModMyMods Motherboard Gigabyte TRX40 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX sTRX4 Motherboard Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Memory $219.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL14 Memory $219.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $229.99 @ B&H Storage Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $229.99 @ B&H Video Card PNY Quadro RTX 8000 48 GB Video Card $4809.00 @ Amazon Case be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 ATX Full Tower Case $253.01 @ B&H Power Supply SeaSonic PRIME TX 1000 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Wireless Network Adapter TP-Link Archer TX3000E PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac/ax Wi-Fi Adapter $44.99 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.89 CFM 120 mm Fan $25.95 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.89 CFM 120 mm Fan $25.95 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.89 CFM 120 mm Fan $25.95 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.89 CFM 120 mm Fan $25.95 @ Amazon Monitor Asus ROG SWIFT PG27UQ 27.0" 3840x2160 144 Hz Monitor Keyboard Corsair K68 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard $111.99 @ Best Buy Mouse Razer DeathAdder v2 Wired Optical Mouse $55.99 @ Best Buy Headphones Astro A50 PS4 4th Gen + Base Station 7.1 Channel Headset Speakers Logitech Z906 500 W 5.1 Channel Speakers $299.99 @ Amazon Webcam Logitech BRIO Ultra HD Pro Webcam $199.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $10714.43 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-10-14 02:21 EDT-0400
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Hello. Happy owner of NZXT H440 here, currently have a pretty quiet setup, but rather hot. Don't really know if i have a best cooler setup for it, seeking for the best solution. Current setup in the attachment, CPU in games sitting at 70-75 C, GPU is about the same, 68-75 C. DRP4 is capable (on papper) to handle up to 250W TDP, and cpu is barely hitting 100W, but still getting hot. Not quite sure if its normal. Thermal paste is MX-4. Yes i tried to re-do the application, no change. Case fans spinning ~700-1000 RPM CPU fans ~900 RPM GPU fans ~1200 RPM
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Hi guys, Hope you are all doing well. I was thinking about which is better a single Dark Rock 4 Pro Air Cooler for AMD ZEN 3 5950x or will 2x 480mm Rad and 2x 360mm and 1x 240mm Custom Water Loop will beat the Air cooler?(also cooling the GPU RTX 3090 from same Water Loop)